The Power Company Climbing Podcast (Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing)

  Oh shit, it actually happened... Episode 1.  January 1st, 2016. The very last time I'll be on time.  Mark it on your calendars!   In this, our inaugural episode, we talk with pro climber Carlo Traversi, exploring the merits of being dynamic in your climbing.  We take a close look at his approach to an impressive send of "Sky" (V14), that required rethinking an enormous move.  Carlo came up with a solution that most of us never would have considered.     Adidas Killswitch video of Carlo doing Sky (V14) Rocklands, South Africa.   We also discuss his signature move, the Pogo, and how to determine when you might be using your new skill TOO much. If you don't know the pogo, it's a valuable skill which you can find more about in these fun videos from Louder Than 11, featuring Carlo:   Pogo Chapter 1 Pogo Chapter 2 Pogo Chapter 3   You can find out all about Carlo at his website!   See you again soon, Kris   #powercompanyclimbing #webuildmachines  

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

You already know the name.  You've read his books.  He's basically the first name in training for climbing in America. Eric Hörst.  My initial foray into training led me directly to his early books, and I've learned more about the science of training and how to apply it to climbing from Eric than from anyone else.  

This podversation is about a new chapter in the updated, 3rd Edition of Eric's "Training For Climbing".  If you have the 2nd Edition, you only have half the story.  This thing is packed full of new, good info, and in my opinion, is Eric's best book.  

 

I don't want to give away too much here, because, well, I want you to listen to the Podcast!  So go do it!  

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

It's finally here.  For quite some time I've toyed with the idea of "in between" episodes.  I can get the great podversations that you've come to expect out about once per month.  More than that and I lose my mind.  So while on our recent workshop tour, Nate and I sat down and figured out a rough format for a new concept.  The Board Meetings were born.  

We've recorded several episodes already, and the one that's about to invade your earhole is our very first.  It's a little rough around the edges, and a little clumsy at times, but as we recorded more episodes, they got better and better.  You just wait.  

 

Here's the basic format....

 

We pick a topic, and we each make a top 3 list for that topic. Neither of us know what the other will say, and we just go in. The intro theme music plays, we start talking, and then it just rolls.  Simple.  Fun.  

 

In this episode we talk about the top 3 changes we've made to our own climbing that have resulted in progress.  If you haven't made these changes to your climbing yet, maybe it's the plateau buster you've been waiting for.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

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In episode 12 we sit down for a ridiculously fun conversation with coaches and elite boulderers Will Anglin and Rowland Chen.  We dig into their concept P.O.E., which is something I've worked with since forever, but never had a cool name for. Taking this conversation to heart could potentially change your climbing, and may very well be the key to taking it to the next level.  

You can find Will at www.willanglin.squarespace.com You can find Tension Climbing at www.tensionclimbing.com

 

Ladies, Rowland is single and awaiting your messages on his FB profile.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

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As we've taken our Boulder Better workshops to gyms across the country, we've been able to watch and work with climbers of all shapes, sizes, abilities, and attitudes.  We've seen lots of cool, positive things happen, but we've also seen lots of mistakes being made.  In this episode, Nate and I sit down after drinking a pot of coffee and a bottle of wine, and discuss each other's list of Top 3 Mistakes We See Being Made.  And yes, we now know that the Platypus is not the only venomous mammal.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode I sit down with strength coach, climber, and multisport athlete Charlie Manganiello, from ClimbStrong, to find out how we can all perform in multiple sports.  Charlie takes a common sense, no bullshit approach to his training and performance, and even though I've chosen to dedicate my energy completely to climbing, I appreciate that candor.  

We can't all climb all the time, and some of us choose not to, even if we could, so we can all learn a little about planning and expectations from this conversation with Charlie.  Even if you're only switching from sport climbing to bouldering, like I do, there is a different approach required, and Charlie's philosophies are applicable.  

 

If you haven't yet, we would love a review and rating in iTunes.  If we get a handful more, we've got 4 bonus episodes coming in the next 2 months... that means a new episode a week for the next bit!  

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

 

In this episode of the Board Meetings, Nate and I have a late night discussion about the top 3 ways we've invested in ourselves.  That could be monetarily, emotionally, with time.... however, as long as it's an investment into bettering ourselves.  A few surprising answers here!

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

 

For our first bonus episode, we sit down for a much needed podversation to remind us that climbing and training should be fun.  Stoke is high with Dru Mack, and even though he comes about it naturally, we dig into how he brings that good energy, how he chooses partners that aren't energy suckers, and what being a good partner means.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

 

In Episode 17 I sit down with mental training guru Arno Ilgner of The Warriors Way.  Most of us recognize The Warriors Way as a way to get over the fear of falling, but it's so much more.  Athletes of all levels can benefit hugely from what Arno and I discuss during this podversation... the differences between being motivated by goals and being motivated by process.  We go into depth with his process, and talk a little about work he's done recently with pro climber Heather Weidner during her campaign to send Simply Read (13d).  I have a feeling you're going to walk away from this one wanting more, and I plan on delivering just that.  

You can find Arno at www.warriorsway.com

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode I have a really great conversation with V11 boulderer, mom, and Physical Therapist Carrie Cooper.  She's set big goals for her sport climbing... but 5.11 is still difficult for her.  Not physically, but it's hard nonetheless.  We walk through her process, how she deals with the ego, and talk about what she's learning.  Carrie takes a really smart approach to her fears... one that we can all learn from.  

As a special addition to this episode, I also talk with Carrie's coach, Dan Mirsky, about the his perspective on Carrie's situation and progress.

You can reach Carrie at www.forefrontslc.com .

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

 

So many Bonus Episodes!!! In this one, Nate and I sit down to discuss the Top 3 Things We've Changed Our Minds About. Fact is, if you still believe all of the same things you believed last year, then you're probably fucking up. Growth comes at the expense of shedding old ideas, and embracing new ones.  Not all old ideas are bad, and not all new ideas are good.  You've got to weed them out, and of course, sometimes you're just plain wrong.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

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    In Episode 2 I sit down with Steve Bechtel at his gym in Lander, Wyoming, to talk resistance training for climbers.  Yes, lifting weights.  No, you won't get swole.  Yes, you should do it.  But enough of that.  Just listen.  We've already recorded two more hours with Steve, so you'll hear more from him in the coming months!   You can find Steve at climbstrong.com, and more about his gym, Elemental Performance + Fitness at lmntl.net.    Don't forget to visit us at powercompanyclimbing.com, and subscribe to us on Itunes or Stitcher Radio!   Episode 3?  It could happen!  This thing could be official!   Kris #powercompanyclimbing #webuildmachines  

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

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LEGEND!  Not much more needs to be said about this weeks guest, Stevie Haston, but I'll say a few more things anyway. How does "flashed 14a trad" grab you?  Or "14d in his mid fifties"?  I figured that would be enough to get your attention. Simply put, Stevie Haston is a machine.  A simple, hard working, sensible machine.  

I've admired the Common Sense approach that Stevie brings to his training for some time, and am priveleged to have been able to sit down with him at The Salt Palace in the middle of a busy Outdoor Retailer.  He's a no nonsense guy who is clear headed and appreciative about the life that he leads.  A simple one.  Imagine that.  

You can learn more about Stevie's approach to training directly from him at www.steviehaston.blogspot.com. Seriously, give it a read... it's one of the most entertaining blogs around.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Another week, another episode.  You guys have 2 more left before we go back to our 1 or 2 per month regularly scheduled program, and I get to relax a little!  Or maybe we'll make it an even 24 episodes for 2016.  I might... MIGHT... have a special bonus bonus episode for Christmas.  If you're good kids.  We'll see.  In this episode, Nate and I sit down to talk about the top 3 ways to balance your climbing with your real life.  Job, family, friends, hobbies, etc.  Trying to balance that with climbing, training for climbing, talking about climbing, thinking about climbing, and listening to podcasts about climbing is TOUGH WORK.  We've got some answers.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Honorary Co-Host Steve Bechtel is back, this time talking about his concept of Integrated Strength Training.   What is that, you ask?  Well, lucky for you, we discuss it at length.  So listen.  Then apply.  Then get stronger.  It's that simple, right?  

It's almost our birthday, which means it's almost Christmas, which means we should exchange gifts!  You give us a rating and review on iTunes, and I'll give you a bonus bonus episode.  Deal?  Ok, Deal!

As always, you can find Steve at www.climbstrong.com

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

This isn't about training.  It's bigger than that.  It's about community.

Miguel's Pizza.  It's been called the "Camp 4 of the East", but that title isn't big enough.  More than what you see on the surface... the cheap camping, amazing pizza, great place to meet partners and sneak beers in brown paper bags, an undeniable climbing institution... Miguel's is a community.  It's an idea.  An inspiration.  It's our Mecca, and it's a place that shaped not only my life, but the lives of countless people who've come of age sleeping (or trying to sleep) in the now famous "climber's only" campground.  

With the help of his son, Dario, who you'll also hear from in this podversation, I sat down with Miguel in his gear shop during normal business hours at the end of a busy season. Sure, we talk about how it started and where it's going, but more important, we dig into what makes Miguel, the human, tick.  He's a complex character, but we learn how a box of crayons led to the ability to communicate with an unknown world.  We find out how a simple sketch provided a whole community of fringe dwellers a place to be themselves.

That's all I'm going to say.  This is one you have to listen to. Happy Holidays from the whole crew... Kris, Nate, Blake, and Paul.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

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This is our final episode of 2016!  It's been an amazing year, and 2017 will only be better.  In this Board Meeting, Nate and I discuss strategies and tactics for redpointing.  Some you may know, many you may not.  Most you've probably forgotten or ignored when you needed them.  

I know I've said it before, but I'll say it again.  THANK YOU.  Thanks to our patrons, our clients, our listeners, the people at the crag who say hello and want to chat about training, and even a big thanks to the naysayers.  It's been said that we're killin' the game.  I choose to believe that we're giving it life.  

Oh, and special thanks to Waylon Jennings for his help with this episode.  :)

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In our first episode of 2017, we talk with climber Craig Demartino, who also happens to be an amputee.  You'd never know it by talking to him or climbing with him, unless he pulls up his pants leg.  Despite the odds, he's become a better rock climber after deciding to amputate his leg.  That's correct... he DECIDED to amputate.  A tough decision that he's very nonchalant about.  

You can learn more about Craig's accident by listening to Episode 11 of The Enormocast.

You can reach Craig at www.craigdemartino.com

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Meghan Baker is a recently married 43 year old mom (to a teenager), who works 50 hours a week, is a brilliant actress in local theater groups, volunteers her time to both The Beta Fund and The HERA Foundation, and still makes time to train for climbing.  We talk through why she sought out coaching, the challenges and benefits of her lifestyle, and what we've focused on for the first year of her training.  You think you are tight on time?  You're full of shit.  

Let us know what you think of the new format, which you'll be hearing about 6 or 8 times a year, on the social medias, or by leaving a review on iTunes.  

As always, thanks for listening.  We don't tweet, we scream like eagles.

You can visit the Hera Foundation at www.herafoundation.org.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

I know, I know.  You're getting antsy.  Me too.  Thing is, I've been bouldering.  A lot.  And honestly, I'm still on schedule, so there.  Unless you guys push us to our $100 per month goal at our Patreon page, and then you'll get 3 each month, which means more work for me, and more utter happiness for you.

But hold off on your dismay... today we're talking to our Strength and Conditioning Coach, Paul Corsaro, about a topic that is extremely important to all of us.... Why Form Matters.  Whether it be strength training, climbing, or just sitting at a desk chair.  Regardless of what you're doing, form matters.  

Paul is one of the best coaches I've ever had the pleasure to work with, and we're fortunate to have him on the team.  You can check out more of what Paul does at www.cruxconditioning.com.  

Check out the ebook Paul coauthored for us, Kettlebells for Climbers

Soon you'll be able to work with Paul through our app for Strength and Conditioning Plans.  You'll hear more about that soon!

Share us on your social medias... we don't tweet, we scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

This an extremely rare "catch and release" episode.  Nate and I were in Austin for a workshop at Crux Climbing Center, and I saw the news that Cody Roth had completed the FA of "Me I Eat Dust", which at 14+ is the hardest sport climb in Texas.  However, it was his comments about the idea that while he isn't in the shape he was in his 20's, he's climbing better, that got me interested.  I hit Cody up on the Facebooks, and a couple of hours later we had this recording.  Brilliant, this community is.  

In other news, we reached the $100 per month mark, thanks to our amazing Patrons!  You guys are the best!  All of you can thank them for the fact that starting now, you get 3 episodes per month.  I'm glad we got there because I've got TONS of these podversations to put out into the intrawebs.  

You've all been asking about Devils Advocate #1... the Moon Board episode.  It's coming.  We've got some surprises in store, so we're taking our time.  It'll be worth the wait.  

Ok.  I'll be talking to you guys again very soon.  Why?  3 episodes this month, that's why.  BOOM.

We don't tweet.  We scream like Eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Skin Care.  You're probably not doing it right.  Even if you are, there is much to learn from this podversation with Justin and Andi Brown from Rhino Skin Solutions.  We talk skin types, how to use each of their individual products (and how not to), and how and why they work.  

These products have been a game changer for me, and I believe that they can be for you as well.  Rhino is giving our listeners a 15% off discount (expires March 31) on their products.  Just use the code PowerCompany at checkout.  All one word, capital P and capital C.  

Rhino also asked us to create a Power Company Performance Pack, which we were happy to do.  Nate and I have different types of skin, so we created a sampler pack of sorts that will allow you to find out which products work best for you and your skin type.  We get a small kickback when you buy the Performance Pack, so if you want to help support the podcast, this is a good way to do it!  You can find the Power Company Performance Pack HERE.

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Very excited to bring this talk to you!  In this episode I sit down with my good friend Rannveig Aamodt, a Norwegian climber and model, and talk about her impressive road to recovery after a terrible accident.  In 2012 she took a 50 foot groundfall in Turkey, with only herself to blame.  We go deep into how that affected her mentality and her psyche to return to climbing, or physical activity in general.  Rannveig does an amazing job of putting into words the process and methods that she used to get back on lead, and now she's back to climbing even harder than she did before the accident.  So many people will find not only inspiration, but new methods to use in their struggles with fear, be it fear of falling, of failure, of the unknown, or whatever.

Find Rannveig online:     Her Site.   Instagram.   Facebook.   The story we reference in the talk   Gallery of rehab photos from Nathan Welton     And this is the single image that I find so compelling, that says so much about Rannveig and her spirit.    

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

JStar is one of the best sport climbers in the world, so it took a ton of courage for him to completely overhaul a training routine that took him to 14d (9a), but he did it anyway.  We talk about the how and the why, what he learned from it, and where he's going from here.  

You can find Jonathan at http://www.jstarinorbit.com, where he keeps what is likely the best blog in all of climbing.  Definitely go check out his recent posts on Pachamama, a 15a that after 8 weeks of effort, he had to walk away from. 

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

It's here.  The one you've been waiting for.  The Moon Board Episode.  And that's not all.  We recorded the conversation, sent it to Ben Moon, and then Skyped him in to get his opinions.  Legend.  

The facts, the myths, what you're doing right, and where you're going wrong.  

Is the Moon Board the best training tool out there?  Listen and decide for yourselves.  Then stop clogging my instagram feed, and get off my lawn ya damn kids!

You can find Ben, The Moon Board, and Moonclimbing at www.moonclimbing.com.

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Justen doesn't need an introduction, but if you've been hiding under a rock, he's an accomplished climber and coach who has worked with a veritable who's who of American climbing elite.  Justen is known for his ability to get into a climbers head and coax more out of them.  I wanted to give you something different, so we don't necessarily dig into those things that you might hear about in his conversations with other climbing podcasts, like Chalk Talk (which you should listen to if you haven't.).  Instead, we dig into ego (the good and the bad), partnerships and how they can be affected by ego, and how awareness can offset the negatives.  

You can find Justen at www.climbingsensei.com

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Why only 2?  Because there are 4 of us in this episode!  The whole team sits down for our first Board Meeting together, and discusses the top 2 places where we each get our information.  The internets are full of bullshit information, so it's hard to know when what you're reading has any sort of integrity or validity.  We break it down the way we do, with lots of laughs in between, and let you know where we look to first for the information we believe in.  

Get ready to subscribe to new podcasts, read new blogs, and search for people you might not have heard of before.  

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Our very first live in front of an audience, live streaming on facebook recording!  With the number of things that could have gone wrong, this went REALLY well.  We talk with Dave Chancellor of the famous So iLL brothers, and Yusuf Daneshyar, co owner of the Climb So iLL gym in St. Louis about how we all define success and the different paths we took to get there.  

Thanks to Climb So iLL for having us out and making us feel like family, and thanks to the whole St. Louis community who welcomes us every time with open arms and delicious tacos.  We'll be back.  

www.climbsoill.com

www.soillholds.com

www.betafund.com

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Tanner Wilson is a 22 year old climber from the middle of Ohio who just went on his first extended road trip of over 5 weeks. Originally he had planned on one big goal, but just before the trip he made a mature decision and changed his mind about what he wanted to accomplish.  Because of the new goals, Tanner learned several important lessons... ones that take most of us many trips and seasons to absorb.

As always, thanks for listening. We don't tweet, we scream like eagles.

Music from this episode comes from the album Catch As Catch Can by our friends Glue.  You can find the album at https://adeem.bandcamp.com/album/glue-catch-as-catch-can

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today we're releasing our new Proven Plans... an option that lands between our simple eBooks and our completely customized plans.  These Proven Plans allow you to work with us in our mobile app, and they allow us to give you customizations and drills that aren't available in our eBooks. The eBooks are extremely popular for good reason, but many of us need a more personal interaction and something a little more customized.  The Proven Plans answer that question.  

Our coach Blake Cash does most of the work with clients in the Proven Plan system.  Here, we discuss the plans, how they came about, where their value lies, and what we've learned from them.  

Learn more about our Proven Plan options HERE.  

Rate and review us on your iTunes!  On your phone?  Do it like this:

• Open your Podcast App
• Search for Power Company Podcast
• Click the Power Company Logo
• Click the Reviews Tab
• At the bottom of your screen, click "Write A Review".
• Tell us how cool we are, or how bad we annoy you.

Share us all over your social medias!  

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

For this episode we sat down in the Red River Gorge with coach and trainer Dan Mirsky to talk about the redpoint process, but the conversation went elsewhere, and we uncovered something interesting.  What resulted is a conversation that essentially boils down to: Do what you're motivated and inspired to do, even if it doesn't make sense.  

You can find and work with Dan at The Front Training Room in Salt Lake City, or on the social medias at @danmirsky.  

You guys are killin the game with the iTunes reviews... keep em coming!  We're looking for 100 total in 2017!

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Let's face it, there are some really bad ideas out there.  Myths that people cling to.  New methods of "training" that just aren't thought through.  Trends that are fun to jump into, but really aren't helping you.  

For this episode Nate and I sat down in the Red River Gorge last fall and discussed a few of these trends, particularly the ones we like the least.

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

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Honorary Cohost Steve Bechtel has a new book out.  Logical Progression: Using Non Linear Periodization for Year Round Climbing Performance.  If you write your own training plans, and still have a hard time sticking to your plan, this is the book for you.  Steve outlines a deceptively simple way of organizing your training that fits nicely into real lives.... something most of us desperately need.  

You can buy the book at http://amzn.to/2q1aync   NOTE: This link gives us a tiny kickback from Amazon... but doesn't increase your cost at all.  

You can find Steve at www.climbstrong.com

You can work with Steve, myself, and several others at the Midwest Training for Climbing Conference this August!  www.midwesttcc.com

Share us on your social medias!  

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode I sit down for a podversation with strength coach Paul Corsaro about our new Ebook training plan, Kettlebells for Climbers.  We discuss why we like kettlebells as a strength training tool for climbers, as well as their limitations.    You can find the training plan HERE. You can find Paul's blog HERE.  

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BONUS EPISODE!  We're giving this one to you free as an example of what you could get as a patron of the podcast.  In a month or so we'll be creating 1 or 2 "patron only" episodes as a bonus for our patrons.  If you were thinking about becoming a patron, now is the time!

Special thanks to our Facebook Community Group for the great questions!

You can find Steve at www.climbstrong.com

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Another example of the extras that we'll be giving to the patrons!  Nate and I noticed a trending topic online that was causing waves.  Jon Glassberg recently wrote a blog for La Sportiva titled "How To Climb V15".  He begins the article with this statement:  

"My hypothesis: Any climber with an athletic disposition, dedication, time, appropriate training and proper diet can climb V10. Climbing double digits is an attainable goal for any serious climber. You just have to want it badly enough and put in the training hours to get there."

We agree.  Here's why... 

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

If there is a polar opposite of "nutritionist", I'm it.  I blank out immediately when talking the details of nutrition.  Not so with our guest today, Neely Quinn.  Neely is a nutritionist, climber, and host of the TrainingBeta podcast.  I've known Neely for some time, but had never talked nutrition with her.  She spoke at the recent ClimbStrong Coaching Conference, and I appreciated her simple take on how we should all be eating.  I know some of you are like me, and this conversation may prove a little simpler to digest.  Pun intended.  

You can find more about Neely at www.trainingbeta.com

Share us on your social medias!  Rate and Review in your iTunes!

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Jonah Durham has been very aptly described as "the sweetest kid ever".  You could also call him a crusher.  Either way, nobody that has spent time with Jonah will argue.  

During my recent 9 month roadtrip I ran into Jonah in several climbing areas.  We recorded a conversation while in Hueco Tanks this winter after I noticed an interesting contrast of sorts in Jonah's climbing.  A few weeks ago in Lander, Jonah sat down with me again for an update on how his own, much longer trip is going, and to discuss exactly what it is that makes him a Not So Average Joe.  

The music you hear in this episode is from the album "The World Is Ours" by our friend Ill Poetic.  "The World Is Ours" is celebrating it's 10 year anniversary this week.  You can hear it and more of Ill Poetic's newer releases at www.illpoetic.com 

 

We recently released the first episode of the brand new "We Scream Like Eagles" podcast that is available to all of our patrons.  You can become a patron and help support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast 

Share us on your social media, and tell all of your friends.  

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

The gang's all here, again!  Our 2nd OFFICIAL full team meeting.  Episode 33, Our Top 2 Sources of Information, was the first.  If you haven't listened to that one... GO DO IT.  

In this episode, Paul, Blake, Nate and I discuss the top 2 ways we break through plateaus.  Whether it's mental or physical, unless you're a mutant, you've gotten stuck.  That upward trajectory has slowed to a grinding halt, and you don't know what to do.  Well, we have some advice.  

BIG NEWS!  The Patron only podcast, "We Scream Like Eagles" is now alive!  For as little as $1 per month, you can get an extra episode or two every 4 weeks.  We like to talk.  You like to listen.  It's a match made in podcast heaven.  Find out more at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

You can train with any of us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

Share us with your friends, your enemies, your mom, your dad, and your grandparents.  And your social medias.  

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

We all like to call climbing an art form, but very few of us take it to the high degree that Jason Kehl does.  From his haircut to his hold lines, his videos to his gym designs, Jason is anything but conventional, and that's exactly why he's so compelling.  I needed to know what fueled his creativity, wanted to dig into his process, and secretly just had to see his home wall.   He's been incredibly successful at rolling all of his interests into one brand... something I've tried hard to emulate, and I appreciate how through it all he's kept true to himself, his vision, and his integrity.  That's not an easy task.

Find Jason online at www.cryptochild.com

Share us on your social medias!  We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

CLICK HERE TO SEE ANGIE'S PHOTOS FOR THIS EPISODE.  Each episode has it's own Photo Gallery, thanks to Angie Payne.  This is episode 1 of 3.  

Pressure.  No matter if it's a comp, a project outdoors, self inflicted or external, we all feel it.  In these 3 episodes I sit down with good friend Angie Payne and discuss the pressure cooker situation of a World Cup comp.  A few weeks ago Angie and I attended the Vail World Cup, and while I ambushed competitors with my microphone, Angie, a former competitor, captured in photos the emotions that this sort of intense pressure creates.  Then we sat down and discussed it all.  Her photos, the comments from competitors, and our own experience.  We talk with Alex Puccio, Shauna Coxsey, Janja Garnbret, Jan Hojer, and more, and not only can you hear their take on it, but you can SEE their emotion in the photos for each episode.  

You can find more of Angie's photos at www.angiepayne.com

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

CLICK HERE TO SEE ANGIE'S PHOTOS FOR THIS EPISODE.  Each episode has it's own Photo Gallery, thanks to Angie Payne.  This is episode 2 of 3.  

Pressure.  No matter if it's a comp, a project outdoors, self inflicted or external, we all feel it.  In these 3 episodes I sit down with good friend Angie Payne and discuss the pressure cooker situation of a World Cup comp.  A few weeks ago Angie and I attended the Vail World Cup, and while I ambushed competitors with my microphone, Angie, a former competitor, captured in photos the emotions that this sort of intense pressure creates.  Then we sat down and discussed it all.  Her photos, the comments from competitors, and our own experience.  We talk with Alex Puccio, Shauna Coxsey, Janja Garnbret, Jan Hojer, and more, and not only can you hear their take on it, but you can SEE their emotion in the photos for each episode.  

You can find more of Angie's photos at www.angiepayne.com

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

CLICK HERE TO SEE ANGIE'S PHOTOS FOR THIS EPISODE.  Each episode has it's own Photo Gallery, thanks to Angie Payne.  This is episode 3 of 3.  

Pressure.  No matter if it's a comp, a project outdoors, self inflicted or external, we all feel it.  In these 3 episodes I sit down with good friend Angie Payne and discuss the pressure cooker situation of a World Cup comp.  A few weeks ago Angie and I attended the Vail World Cup, and while I ambushed competitors with my microphone, Angie, a former competitor, captured in photos the emotions that this sort of intense pressure creates.  Then we sat down and discussed it all.  Her photos, the comments from competitors, and our own experience.  We talk with Alex Puccio, Shauna Coxsey, Janja Garnbret, Jan Hojer, and more, and not only can you hear their take on it, but you can SEE their emotion in the photos for each episode.  

You can find more of Angie's photos at www.angiepayne.com

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Tension Climbing makes wood climbing holds.  Why wood? That's exactly what I wanted to know.  I've long known that I'm a fan of climbing on wood, and I have my reasons, but I've never put even remotely close to as much thought into it as the guys at Tension have.  

I sat down with Will Anglin and Ben Spannuth to discuss their products, the reason behind their shapes, what their favorites are, and more.  They just released two new hangboards... The Grindstone and The Grindstone Pro.  If you're in the market, you want one (or both) of these.  Trust me.  We go in depth on these two boards, their brilliant travel/warmup board, The Flash Board, their campus rungs, and even touch on their upcoming Tension Board.  I had to stop Will from saying too much... he's just so excited.  

Tension is giving you guys a discount!  15% off of any regularly priced item in their shop.  Simply use the code powercompany at checkout.

You can find them at www.tensionclimbing.com.

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode I sit down with Alli Rainey, a Tensleep, Wyoming based climbing coach and trainer, writer, and yoga instructor.  Alli climbed up to 5.14 in her signature, vertical, technical style, and then decided to learn how to climb steeper, more gymnastic routes... and had to change her entire approach to training and climbing, not to mention her body type, to do so.   You can find Alli at www.allirainey.com. She works constantly in the Tensleep, Wyoming area, developing and advocating for climbing.  You can find out how to help at www.bighornclimbers.org.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Lantien Chu is a smiling fountain of wisdom.  She's also coach of the Lander Tigers high school swim team, which has won 21 consecutive state titles.  Most important, she's an exceptional human.  

Wait... 21 consecutive state titles?  Yes, and the team does it without ever cutting a swimmer, including some who can't swim when they join the team.  

That seems like a lot of pressure to endure, year after year, particularly if you're a 16 or 17 year old student.  I needed to know how she coached her team, how her team responds, and if any of those lessons could be applicable to climbing.  

Turns out they all are.  They're also applicable to being an exceptional human.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Fingers are pretty important to us.  At some point, all of us will have a tweak, twinge, or injury, and we'll need to know how to deal with that.  In this episode I sit down with Dr. Lisa Erikson, and we dive deep into the methods behind dealing with finger injuries.  We talk taping, acupressure rings, voodoo floss, ultrasound, self diagnosis, and more.  

You can find Lisa's products and her book Climbing Injuries Solved, at www.climbinginjuriessolved.com.

If you would like to see her or reach out to her about an injury you have, go to www.lifesportchiro.com

This week the patrons get Lisa's top tips to avoid injury. Become a patron of the podcast for as little as $1 per month at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast.  

Share us on the social medias!  

We don't tweet.  We scream like Eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode Nate and I sit down with Allison Stowers, a Chattanooga climber and physical therapist. We discuss the climber injuries that Allison most often sees in her clinic... shoulders and hip region injuries.  How to self diagnose, when you should see a doctor,  what to do about it, and most important, how to prevent it.  

You can find Allison at www.chattclimberpt.com or at www.peakfitnessandpt.com

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In today's episode I sit down with Kerry Scott, an unassuming, but very badass young lady from North Carolina.  Besides coaching a youth team at Triangle Rock Club, Kerry is a crusher.  And she's not ashamed to "spray" a little.  And you all know that I'm definitely not afraid to spray, and I appreciate it when others buck the norm.  

I've spent time in North Carolina, and I know that the south and east in particular can sometimes be a place where you're encouraged not to "spray", and I think that is often unfortunate.  I agree that just puffing up to talk about yourself isn't helpful to anyone, but there is a fine line between spray and pride, and I think that Kerry did a beautiful job navigating that with the ascent of her first 14a, Proper Soul. We talk about why she put it out there, and what that's meant to her. We also talk about her support system, and how important it is to have that.

Decide for yourself what's appropriate, but don't let others tell you not to be proud of yourself.

And damn it, tell the world about it if that's what you want to do.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Shelma Jun is an unapologetic force to be reckoned with, and she's put more thought than most of us into this feminist movement that is rocking the climbing world. To be honest, while I've put a ton of thought into it myself, much of it was in the form of denial. When that began to change, and I opened by eyes a little, I knew I had to have a conversation with Shelma. I'm extremely happy that she was willing to sit down with me and struggle through a tough, but important conversation.  

Some of you will agree. Some of you won't. That's ok. What's important is that we start the conversation, on many levels, and keep it going.  

I've fucked up many times. I'll fuck up more. That's about all that I'm sure of.  

That, and that I'll always make an effort to realize that I don't need to have all the answers.  

You can find Shelma at www.flashfoxy.com and at www.nevernotcollective.com

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Here in Lander there is a very strong contingent of powerful women. I'm lucky to have become friends with many of them, and I'm extremely fortunate to be able to count Emily Tilden among those friends.

She is a no bullshit straight shooter, which I value and appreciate, and like many great athletes, she has a mental tenacity that is sometimes difficult to comprehend. I've watched her handily win the pullup comp at the Climbers Festival several times, and I've watched her cruise to an easy win, with a smile on her face, after running 20K at over 9,000 feet.

Emily likes to run long distances. In the mountains. Likes to. What? That just doesn't compute with me. She's a mom that was right back to the gym, with son Wyatt in tow, shortly after giving birth. She also has the often rare ability to vocalize why and how she is able to push through the wall that stops me at about mile #1.

Perhaps even more interesting is that when climbing, she doesn't have the same drive. It occupies a different space for her. Why is that? Why can I go a muerte on a climb, but want to call for a ride home after running a few blocks? What's the difference?

We may actually have a few answers.

Emily is a trainer here in Lander at Elemental Performance and Fitness. She's an NSCA-CPT, and if you're interested in working with her, you can reach her at emily@elementalgym.com 

I promise, she won't bullshit you.

Tell your friends.  We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

If you've been around climbing long enough, you know someone who has or has had an eating disorder. While it's not a secret, it's certainly a topic that is generally shamed and then ignored. As a coach, friend, and partner, I wanted to know more about it, how to recognize it, and what to do when confronted with it. 

Savannah Buik reached out to me a little over a year ago to tell me that she had started a blog, partly inspired by my willingness to call people out, that focused on her own struggles with eating disorders. Since then, she's had more struggles, and in this episode we talk more about those tough times.

Savannah offers us an easy way to understand these disorders, a way to recognize when it's a problem, and a way to think about it while approaching a friend in need.  This is a conversation I'm so glad that I sat down for, no matter how uncomfortable the subject is.

You can find Savannah's blog, Crimpin and Biscuits, at www.savannahbuik.com

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

 

The climbing community tragically lost Savannah to a climbing accident in March 2018.  Her kindness, openness, and passion for helping others suffering from eating disorders made her an inspiration to many.  If you'd like to support Savannah's passion, consider a donation to Project HEAL, an organization she was proudly involved with, that seeks to provide prevention, treatment, and recovery support to those suffering from eating disorders. Savannah will be greatly missed.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this, Episode 6, we sit down with listener favorite Steve Bechtel at his gym in Lander, Wyoming, and talk about the question everyone is asking... "will running help my climbing?"

We delve into running as both a weight loss tool and as aerobic training for climbing, whether or not you should be running, and if Crossfit is even worth it.  

 

You can find Steve at www.climbstrong.com.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode I have a short podversation with Carlo Traversi.  You know him as a boulderer, or maybe, if you follow him closely, you know he's been National Sport Climbing Champion.  But that's not all.  He started in Yosemite as a traddie, and plans on taking it back to there.  He calls it "Folding the sport over on itself".  This concept resonates with me, as it's the path that I'm choosing as well.   Carlo also has a thing or two to say about grades and where bouldering is headed, specialization, and 5.10 offwidths. Uh huh, I said offwidths.   The Power Company is now my OFFICIAL job, and I'm moving across the country, so I've been lax in getting this episode out, but it's here, and I have lots of conversations planned with trainers and athletes in the coming months.  Yes, including fan favorite Steve Bechtel.  We're about to ramp this thing up, including traveling workshops across the country this summer, so be on the lookout for dates! OH... and Nate has a few open spots to train with him through our mobile training app, so if you want to get your summer training started so that you can send some shit in the fall, NOW is the time. You'll also be seeing new Ebooks hitting the site soon.  The double bell follow up to the popular Kettlebells for Climbers (Single Bell) plan will be hitting the site.  We're working hard on a Movement Ebook, as well as a Core Training guide, so keep your eyes peeled! And one of these days, if I ever get around to it, I'll be posting tees, tanks, and hoodies up for sale.  Someday!  

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode we talk with honorary co-host Steve Bechtel and his co-author Charlie Manganiello about their new resource "The Climb Strong Deadlifting Manual".  They tell us why deadlifting is the number one bang for your buck exercise for strength training for climbers, and give some background on the how, why, and when.  You can find out more about Steve and Charlie at climbstrong.com, or by visiting them at Steve's gym in Lander, Wyoming, Elemental Climbing and Fitness.   You can purchase the book HERE.      

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode I sit down with professional climber, routesetter, and youth coach, Jon Cardwell, and talk about the challenges inherent to long distance projecting.  Jon recently completed his long term project, Biographie (5.15a), in Ceuse, over 5,000 miles from his home.  And you thought 150 miles was too far...

We talk about the mental and emotional toll, as well as how he structured his physical training with such a big, overseas objective in mind.  We go deep into the emotions of dealing with failure, and how it affects your mindset when you can't try your project every day.  

 

Check out www.powercompanyclimbing.com for all of your training needs!

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

    Welcome!     I assume this is just the beginning, but depending on how busy I get, it could be the end too... we'll all just have to wait and see!   Big thanks to John Doe from the 1200 Hobos Crew for the theme music!  You can find more about John HERE.   Check out our PDF Training Plans... its selling those things that make this possible!   Episode 1 with Carlo Traversi coming to you sometime near the start of 2016.  

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

I asked, and we got a LOT of questions about home walls, spray walls, and the like, so we've split it into 6 parts - or more actually, since a few of the questions will warrant their own entire episode. 

In this episode, with Zach Alexander of 42 North Bouldering, we setting a spray wall, hold density and placement, training endurance on a home wall, and how to build a library of problems that are effective for your training.

 

Check out our Boulder Builder course, available NOW!

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Part 2 of 3.

In this episode Nate and I sit down to try and parse out a topic that is FAR too big for one episode - bouldering tactics. We intended for this to be a 2-parter, but it ended up being over 3 hours total, so we're making it a 3 part series instead. 

You can find the new Crag Kit and Boulder Bag at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/essential-elements

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

There’s more information out there than ever. When I first started Power Company Climbing, there were very few training blogs, no training podcasts for climbers, maybe one other remote climbing coach, and honestly, very few reputable sources for information on how to improve. 

That lack of information, or of people willing to offer advice, is certainly no longer the case. It’s quite the opposite now. There’s SO MUCH out there to wade through, never mind spending time to parse it out, verify the claims made, and think critically about the applicability of it. There are hundreds, maybe thousands of internet coaches, dozens of podcasts all doing the same interviews about the same topics, and millions of posts and videos telling you exactly how to train. 

That’s the root of our problem. But the problem itself? That’s us – and how we collect these things. 

We have become collectors – rather than connectors – of dots.

 

Watch this episode on YouTube.

Taped Tips is presented by Power Company Climbing and Plug Tone Audio.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Introducing a new podcast brought to you by Power Company Climbing, Crux Conditioning, and Plug Tone Audio: Breaking Beta!

Is it possible to make research and science both more fun - and frankly - more useful for coaches and climbers?

That’s what we needed to answer. Now that we’re a few episodes into recording this podcast, I can honestly answer YES. It takes a lot of work, but yes. Our goal is to do that work for you.

In this podcast, coaches Paul Corsaro and Kris Hampton are getting together in the lab weekly to look at the body of research - both climbing specific and more general sports science - that is often cited by climbers on their quest to improve. We’ll take each study, break it into its components, explain it in a way that doesn’t make your eyes glaze over, and then discuss what we find useful and as well as the ways in which these studies are so wildly misinterpreted by damn near every one of us.

Season 1 of Breaking Beta drops on Wednesday, December 8th. Every week for 10 weeks we’ll be getting deep into finger strength, tendon health, creatine, flexibility, climbing specific injury, and more. What the research says, what it doesn’t, and how you’ve been getting it all wrong.

Make sure you’re subscribed, hit the follow button on Spotify, and tell your friends to tell a friend. Particularly that one friend who is always citing his wild misinterpretation of the research. Tell him you’ve got the perfect podcast for him.

Brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning.

Find Kris and our main Breaking Beta content on Instagram.

Find Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram.

Get transcripts, citations, and more at our site.

Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

Breaking Beta is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better way to consider movement than the technique-based way we’ve always done it.  In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss ideas presented by author Josh Waitzkin about our mental models for learning, specifically after hearing him as a guest on Tim Ferriss's podcast, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.

This episode originally aired on April 5, 2020.

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

THE CURRENT | Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills

TAPED TIPS | Difficulties Should Be Desirable

TAPED TIPS | When Beta Isn’t Better

BOARD MEETINGS | Common Sense vs. Common Practice

Josh Waitzkin on Beginner’s Mind, Self-Actualization, and Advice from Your Future Self | The Tim Ferriss Show

The Art of Learning: An Inner Journey to Optimal Performance by Josh Waitzkin

____________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

____________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

____________________

📚CHAPTERS

(0:00) Theme

(0:37) Intro

(2:29) Topic Description

(4:09) New Feedback Paradigms and Opportunities

(8:28) More Feedback isn’t Always Better

(12:00) Observation and Building Awareness

(17:07) How Routesetting Helps Understand Movement

(19:26) When the Poetic Perfection Has Been Marred

(24:03) Unexpected Learning From What You Deem Not Useful

(32:15) The Thematic Elements of Climbing Movement

(39:58) Self Expression via Movement

(43:29) Reps Hidden in Plain Sight

(51:22) The Ultimate Way to Get in High Quality Reps

(55:24) Hidden Reps We Often Miss

(01:02:14) The Gap in Our Confidence

(01:05:35) Comp Boulders and Discomfort

(01:08:10) How the Best Climbers React to Discomfort

(01:10:35) Setting Hard Things for Yourself

(01:22:41) Put the Wrench Away

(01:13:54) Outro

In January 2015, 7 years ago this week, I, along with countless others including many non-climbers, was glued to a saga happening on the side of El Cap. Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson were battling it out on what would become the world's hardest big wall free route, the Dawn Wall, and it was being streamed live. We watched as they topped out on January 14th after a tension-filled week in which Tommy had showed the world, in real-time, one of the most important things about climbing: partnership.

So now, 7 years later almost to the day, that Tommy and Kevin topped out the Dawn Wall together, we are going to REWIND to this conversation about belief and partnership with one of the best all-around climbers on the planet, Tommy Caldwell.

 

This episode originally aired on October 26, 2017.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Udo Neumann is a climber, performance coach, and motor-learning explorer. He’s the author of several books, including the cult classic Performance Rock Climbing.  He was the German National Team coach from 2009 to 2017, working with several European and World Champion athletes during that time, including Jan Hojer and Jule Wurm. Today he advises federations and works with athletes and coaches all over the world.

In this episode, we discuss his ideas around motor learning and coaching movement, whether a coach needs to be as good as the athlete, how he assesses climbers, what makes Janja Garnbret and Tomoa Narasaki special, and what makes the Japanese team so good.

Find Udo online at udini.com and on YouTube.

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Performance Rock Climbing by Udo Neumann and Dale Goddard

Episode 482: The Coaching Eye - How Reliably Can Expert Coaches Observe Movement? | The Perception & Action Podcast

Cognitive Bias Codex Infographic from Visual Capitalist

Coaching for Mastery Course

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(0:00) Intro and Guest Introduction

(3:09) Have We Overemphasized the Physical?

(7:26) Udo’s Transition to the Ecological Approach to Coaching

(8:42) ANNOTATION: Bernstein, Degrees of Freedom, Repetition Without Repetition

(14:54) Deliberate Play

(29:32) The Athlete Doesn’t Need All of the Information

(32:33) Does a Coach Need to Be Better Than the Climber?

(34:57) Technique vs. Skill

(40:02) Open and Closed Skills

(40:52) ANNOTATION: Open and Closed Skill Continuums

(45:51) Adaptability and Biases in Climbing

(51:07) ANNOTATION: Marshmallow Test and Delayed Gratification

(56:40) What Makes Janja Garnbret So Good?

(59:20) Rhythm and Patience

(1:02:01) How Does Udo Assess Movement Skills?

(1:09:09) How Often Should We Give Explicit Instruction?

(1:16:29) Using Video in Coaching

(1:28:34) Are Comp Boulders Useful for Outdoor Climbers?

(1:32:40) What’s the Secret of the Japanese Team and Tomoa Narasaki?

(1:42:07) Wrap Up

Back in September, at the 8th annual Joe’s Valley Festival, Kris sat down to talk to local legend and longtime crusher Steven Jeffery, about how climbing has evolved since he first came onto the scene. They reflect on how today’s online resources like digital guidebooks and social media have impacted climbing.

 

Check out Steven's new guidebook on KAYA Pro!  Use code JV2WEEKS to get 2 weeks FREE!

Join the Joe's Valley Coalition!

Watch Reel Rock's United States of Joe's!

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

EPISODE 2motherfuckinghundred. WHAT?? Thanks for riding with us for all this time. In this episode, Kris gets grilled by friends Zach and Lana on all things about the podcast. Where we've been and where we're headed.

Some of the other episodes mentioned in this episode are:

Ep. 12 POE with Will Anglin and Rowland Chen

Ep. 54 Feminism in Climbing with Shelma Jun

Ep. 50 A Coaching Masterclass with Lantien Chu

Ep. 57 Flow and Mental Mastery with Hazel Findlay

Ep. 58 Comparing Hangboard Protocols with Steve Maisch

Ep. 63 Belief and Partnership with Tommy Caldwell

Ep. 64 Fixed vs. Growth Mindset with Trevor Regan

Ep. 66 Now What? with Dan John

Ep. 93 Being Good Climbing Partners with Scott Pagel and Tyler Algeo

Ep. 98 Diversity in Climbing with Brown Girls Climb

Ep. 118 The Best Hangboard Protocol with Eva Lopez

Ep. 129 Success and Failure with Mina Leslie Wujastyk

Ep. 145 Intentional Community with The BlackHeathens

Ep. 156 Try Harder with Troy Fauteux

Ep. 173 Show Up As You Are with Devin Dabney

Ep. 177 Black Joy with Mario Stanley and Dynell Hunter

 

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

For most climbers, a 100-foot ground fall would be the end of their lives, or at the very least, the end of their climbing careers. Not so for Craig DeMartino.

21 years ago this week, while climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park, a moment of miscommunication nearly cost him everything, and did lead to the eventual amputation of his right leg. But instead of letting the resulting limitations do just that – limit him – Craig changed his perspective and kept on climbing, ultimately becoming one of the most accomplished paraclimbers in the world. Today, we REWIND to this conversation with Craig about motivations, limitations, perception, and moving forward.

Learn more about Craig at his website.

Follow Craig on Instagram.

Check out Craig's book: After the Fall.

Hear Craig's story on "The Enormocast".

Watch Craig on "The Season".

 

This episode originally aired on January 3, 2017.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Climbing is complicated. It’s physical, emotional, psychological, and depending on the person, tends to either quiet or amplify the things you have going on outside of climbing. Not to mention, the climbing community can come with its own bad habits that might feed your demons.

Emily Holland is a podcast coach and host of the incredible podcast Nature Untold. She tells stories of addiction and recovery in the outdoor community. Today we tell her story. A story of how sobriety helped her find her way back to climbing, and how a supportive community has made all the difference.

In this episode we discuss:

• Why climbing was a toxic place for her.

• What changed her mindset.

• How’s she’s leaning in a little at a time.

• The role that sobriety - and Nature Untold - played.

• How a caring community can make the difference.

Find Emily online.

Learn more about Nature Untold.

Find Emily on Instagram at Instagram

We don't tweet. We scream like Eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

I often hear climbers lament how difficult it is for them to climb or train with their partners who climb at a different level than they do. While I agree it can be hugely motivating to have a partner who is working on the same things that you are - who you can share beta and tactic ideas with - it's also 100% up to you to find the motivation to keep pushing when that partner doesn't materialize.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Hard climbing is, well, hard. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss one of the unrealistic expectations that training can bring about - that everything should just feel easy.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

A quick look at Cody Kaemmerlen’s Linked In profile reveals this bio: Lives by simple beliefs; advocate for the underrepresented and oppressed, use your privilege with honor and be aggressively kind.

More than anyone I’ve ever met, Cody lives by these words. He’s a passionate advocate for what he believes in - somehow without coming off as pushy - and as soon as I saw him announced as Director for The American Alpine Club’s new Climb United initiative, I knew I wanted to talk to him. His position seems impossible, but if there’s anyone who I believe can find and hold onto the hope and possibility within it, it’s Cody. 

Learn more about the Climb United initiative.

Watch the Route Name Open Forum.

Follow Cody on Instagram.

Learn more about Wilder Mind.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode we hear from Emily Holland at Nature Untold, in a re-airing of her episode Eating Disorder Recovery - We Can All Do Better Together. 

Featured in this episode are Dr. Jennifer Gaudiani, Jenna Celmer, and Caroline Wickes.  

Resources for eating disorders:

• The Gaudiani Clinic Website

• The Gaudiani Clinic Instagram (has free resources and information)

• Full Gaudiani Clinic Resources List

Catch up with Jenna Celmer:

• Jenna’s Instagram

Catch up with Caroline Wickes:

• Caroline’s Instagram

• Article: Weighing In: Does Climbing Need an Eating-Disorder Intervention?

• Episode: Caroline Wickes | Eating Disorders in Climbing

Thank you, as always, for listening to this episode. Please follow along on the show’s Instagram, our private Facebook group, or wherever you’d like. We also have a Patreon if you’re interested in supporting everything Nature Untold is cooking up.

______________________________

Learn more about Hip Hop Taught Me Everything.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

We've all done it, and not always for the right reasons.

Find the new Proven Plans at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Lauren and Nate join me to discuss the importance of seeing the process through - an element often forgotten when talking about the importance of the process. 

You can find Lauren at Good Spray Climbing.

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Recorded November 2018. Nate and I sit down with our fellow Power Company Coach Paul Corsaro to discuss the top 6 myths we see persisting in the climbing industry. 

Check out the new book at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/the-hard-truth

Find the new Proven Plans at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans 

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course!

 

In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement.

This is Part 2 so be sure to check out Part 1, if you haven't already!

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

The Bouldering Process | Flight of the Antelope (V10)

The Process of Dealing with Fear While Bouldering

CONFLICTED | Boards as Movement Assessment Tools

The #1 Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves

Contrast Warm Up (aka Sloth Monkeys) Drill

Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast Drill

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(00:00) Intro (03:06) Finding the Best Beta (09:12) Strength vs. Movement (09:55) Heel Hooks vs. Toe Hooks (11:05) The Mystery of Toe Hooks (18:08) How to Coach Toe Hooks (22:07) How to Know You’re Improving (27:56) The Best Level to Learn Movement (28:58) How to Know What to Work On (31:00) How to Improve Pacing and Rhythm (36:37) How to Improve at Scary Moves (41:24) Movement to Focus On Pre-Trip (43:46) False Start Hover Drill (48:35) Movement Work After a Break From Climbing (51:40) We’re Thinking of Movement Backwards (55:11) Outro

Don’t be fooled by Patty Law’s small frame and soft-spoken demeanor – she’s a fierce climber, mother, entrepreneur, and community cultivator. She’s been welcoming climbers through the doors of her gyms and into a thriving Cincinnati climbing community for more than 20 years now. Kris sits down with his long-time friend to talk about about her journey from a climbing-obsessed college student to a successful businesswoman and community leader.

 

Find Climb Time Blue Ash online and on Instagram!

Find Climb Time Oakley online and on Instagram!

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today's episode comes from The Struggle Climbing Show and features our very own coach Nate Drolet in consultation with the show's host Ryan Devlin, who has been working hard towards a goal to climb 13a.  They'll talk movement analysis, technique improvement, and more.  This is the first of two episodes with Nate on the topic, so be sure to head over to The Struggle to hear the second part!

 

Check out more episodes of The Struggle Climbing Show.

Follow The Struggle Climbing Show on Instagram.

Get more content on The Struggle's Patreon.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

Book a Remote Consultation with Nate

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

“It's all about the process.”

Sure, the journey is important, but so is the destination. It's not all about the journey. It’s about mapping out the journey that gets you to the intended destination. So is there a way to care about the outcome without making it the focus?

In this REMIX episode, we'll hear from athletes Sam Elias and Alex Megos, learning expert Trevor Regan, and mental training coach Arno Ilgner about how we can care about the outcome, but stay focused on the process.

 

REVISIT THE ORIGINAL EPISODES FEATURED IN THIS REMIX:

Process vs. Goal Based Motivation with Arno Ilgner

Fixed vs. Growth Mindset with Trevor Ragan

Thoughtful Process with Sam Elias

Alex Megos and Ken Etzel | Rotpunkt

 

Music in this episode comes from Blue Dot Sessions.

Spindash 

Sylvestor

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Eating disorders and disordered eating are a real, but often hidden problem in the sport of climbing, and many of us unwittingly perpetuate the idea that less weight is better. In this episode, Caroline Wickes and I sit down to discuss her personal experiences with eating disorders, as well as the things she learned while researching for her Climbing Magazine article, Weighing In: Does Climbing Need an Eating Disorder Intervention?

 

For help with an eating disorder, contact the NEDA Helpline.

Check out the study from Lenae Joubert referenced in the episode. 

Check out the documentary film LIGHT.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

 

Kris and Nate get a popcorn and watch Arcteryx Presents: Passion featuring America's most prolific sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist. They discuss the style of the film, Ryan White's editing, how difficult it is to make sport climbing look hard (or interesting) and the lessons that we can use in our own climbing.

Watch the film.

The Lil Yachty Walk Out video discussed.

Film Credits:

Director: Ryan White DP: Ryan White + Marco Zanone Photography: Ryan White Music: Dubspeeka + Thimble

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Allyson Gunsallus is a mom and climber who is directing and producing a film series called Hand Holds: Climbing After Parenthood with the aim of benefitting parental and maternal wellness in the community.  Currently shooting, with plans to release in spring 2025, this free-to-watch series will feature interviews with well-known climbers to uncover how families address logistical challenges, issues like postpartum recovery, and more – topics rarely explored in climbing media.

Learn more about Hand Holds.

Support the project through Seed & Spark.

Support the project through The Gotham Film & Media Institute.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Climbing and Parenting with Beth Rodden

Raising Them Right with Constance Lightner

Mental Toughness with Emily Tilden

Meghan Baker is a Not So Average Jane

Climbing Training and Pregnancy: My Journey, with coach Jess West

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(0:00) Theme

(0:36) Introduction

(1:40) Guest Introduction

(3:32) Hand Holds Name Origin

(8:48) Parenting for the Second Time

(14:35) Modeling Passion

(19:16) What is Hand Holds?

(28:13) Who will be profiled?

(30:18) Goals for Hand Holds

(48:03) Where will it be? How can we help?

(53:05) Wrap Up

(54:34) Theme

I’m actually not a big fan of the term “drills”, but I don’t have a better word for it. I don’t like it for several reasons:

One, because we aren’t “drilling” anything in. Despite the popular belief, that’s not actually how learning works. Performance, maybe, but not learning. And in my book, these “drills” are for learning. 

Two, there are just too many coaches who assume that harder equals better. They just keep stacking difficulties onto their drills as if those difficulties are all going to make you better at climbing. Now we see climbers bouncing one-legged on a Bosu Ball balanced on a slackline while blindfolded and miming rose moves because…

WHY? 

Yeah, I don’t know either. And today, we’re going to talk about why that might not be the best solution.

 

In our Coaching for Mastery course, we go DEEP into how coaches and climbers can create an effective practice. That’s literally what the entire course is about. The research, the theories, my experience, and how you can practically apply it.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

As wildfires become more common and powerful, the Giant Sequoias of the American West are burning at alarming rates. These enormous beings stand at a few hundred feet in height and a hundred feet in diameter.

Due to climate change and 100 years of human mismanagement, the forests where these Sequoias live are being lost to wildfire.

In this episode, Kris sits down with Sam Prentice, District Hydrologist for the USDA Forest Service, to speak about how wildfires are impacting our Giant Sequoia groves, the surrounding communities, and what we can do about it. 

This episode also dives into our history of fire management, or mismanagement, in the United States, and how current government bodies and nonprofits are not on the same page for a mitigation plan. 

Links from this episode:

• Save The Sequoias Act
• 10 Tips to Prevent Wildfires
• Smokey Bear’s Helpful Website
• The Sequoia Conservation Fund

Read the Access Fund article about how wildfires are impacting climbers. 

Plug Tone Outdoors is part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Check out our website or follow along on Instagram to learn more about our other shows.

This episode of Plug Tone Outdoors was created and produced by Kris Hampton.

Music by Mepa Melson, Serge Quadrado, Anton Vlasov, LesFM and Coma Media from Pixabay.com

Find a full transcript of this episode, images from Sam, and more, at the blog post for this episode.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Our Finger Strength Resource Page

Eva Lopez | The Best Hangboard Protocol

Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?

Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(00:00) Intro and Topic Explanation

(20:25) Long Duration Finger Health Hangs

(22:15) Multi-Grip Block Workout

(28:07) Eva Lopez MAW and MED Hangs 

(33:27) Too Easy to Fail (2 Hangs per Session)

(38:32) Offset Hangs or Pulls on a Hangboard or Bouldering Wall

(44:07) 6:10 Repeaters

(56:28) 5:55 Three Finger Alternating Hangs

(1:02:12) Three Max Hangs of 6 Seconds Each

(1:08:43) Outro

Let's be clear - not every trend is a good one. In this episode, Nate and I sit down in Houston to discuss the trends we've seen recently that we are glad to see becoming popular.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Through the vehicle of rock climbing, Mario Stanley coaches kids (and adults) to become better humans. He’s created programs for all ages, but perhaps the most interesting to many youth coaches out there are the teams he’s created as a feeder into the storied programs of Team Texas.

His big personality translates to his mentorship. It’s powerful and you know without a doubt that Mario has your back. I appreciate that from a coach - and from a friend.

 

Find Mario online at www.mariostanley.com

Find him on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/mariostan

Find Sends and Suffers on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/sendsandsuffers

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Taylor and Sarah are dedicated climbers who I spent some of my best seasons sport climbing with, and have taken on the mentor role themselves.

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode Nate and I breakdown the lessons we learned from listening to Episode 412 of the Tim Ferriss podcast with guest Josh Waitzkin.  Josh is the author of The Art of Learning, one of our favorite books, and has a great approach to the learning process. On Tim's podcast, Josh essentially asks the question "What holes do we have in our mental models for learning?" from the perspective of his new hobby. We try to apply the same questions and perspectives to climbing. 

The new book The Hard Truth is available for preorder at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/the-hard-truth

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Sydney Smith is not only an excellent community builder, but she's also someone who thinks and reflects deeply on her own climbing. In this episode we discuss one of the toughest things for any athlete - hell, any person - to deal with: ego, particularly when intimidated.

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Fallon Rowe has been climbing since 2003 and coaching since 2013. After a decade of youth and collegiate competitions, she found her true passion for outdoor climbing – both sport and trad. She’s spent her adult life pursuing climbing all over the world while offering (mostly) virtual coaching.

In her words, she helps “climbers optimize their experience using mindset and mental performance techniques, like working on fear of falling, and analyzing movement and technique with video feedback and visualization.”

Host Emily Chen-Newton and Fallon share a genetic collagen disorder (Ehlers-Danlos syndrome). In this conversation they talk how this condition impacts their climbing – and how Fallon coached Emily through some of these issues.

Fallon also has a condition called, POTS which you'll hear mentioned in this episode. It's a dysfunction of the autonomic nervous system. Things that should be “automatic go haywire”, she says. So, her body doesn't properly regulate things like blood pressure, heart rate and temperature. Fallon’s main symptom is lightheadedness or pre-syncope (the feeling you get before you faint). 

Fallon is also a rock-climbing guide and teaches courses on trad climbing, anchor building, and more. She is sponsored by The Desert Rat, Cypher Climbing, HILX Eyewear, and Crux Power. Her education as a geologist gives her a deep connection to nature, and she loves playing the fiddle, shooting pool, wandering the desert, writing and photographing climbing.

We start this episode with Fallon talking about a recent time when she was digging into some of those "non climbing" hobbies as she was recovering from a tendon tweak. BUT, as she tells us, this injury hit differently than others in the past -- in a good way. 

*While Fallon Rowe and host Emily both discuss their medical conditions and how they’ve learned to live with them, this content is not, and does not replace medical advice.

Fallon can be reached on Instagram @fallonclimbs or on her website.

Aug 2-4th workshop 

How to climb with hEDS

Climbing with POTS

What is hEDS?

What is POTS?

Follow Emily and EBC on:

Instagram

SoundCloud

Theme music sample attribution: Creeper_Ciller78

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

More episodes of Every Body Climbs

More episodes of Sends and Suffers

Maureen Beck | Adapting

Justin Salas | Nonsighting

REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

If you’re a climber and you haven’t been to Miguel’s Pizza, you probably want to go, or you’ve at least seen a dozen people wearing their t-shirts. Forty years ago, Miguel Ventura moved from Connecticut to Slade, Kentucky and started what was then known as The Rainbow Door, a pizza and ice cream shop that has since become an icon to climbers all over the world. REWIND with us to this classic episode with the man himself, Miguel Ventura, and a special appearance by his son Dario, about art, pizza, climbing, and community.

And to everyone over there off Exit 33, congrats on 40 years!

 

Check out Miguel's Pizza online.

Follow Miguel's on Instagram.

This episode originally aired on December 24, 2016.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Yasmeen is one my oldest and best friends, and is a thoughtful, and all-around badass human and climber. 

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

We're lucky to have Nadya Suntay on our team. She's thoughtful, dedicated, and damn strong! If you're in our Proven Plan group chats, you know what kind of champion she is!

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Kris and Nate sit down to watch In Sequence: Katie Lamb and the Craft of Hard Bouldering from Patagonia Films, and then discuss the film itself as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing.

 

Watch the film.

 

Produced and Directed by Eric Bissell Editor David Fitzgerald Director of Photography Eric Bissell Executive Producers Alex Lowther, Justin Roth, Kristo Torgersen Producer Monika McClure Additional Photography Owen Bissell, Spenser Tang-Smith Color Royal Muster/Greg Reese Graphics Ben Blanchard Sound Design and Mix David Fitzgerald

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month. If you’re a regular listener, you may remember the conversation from Episode 106 with trainer Joslynn Corredor about her experience with breast cancer and identity after a double mastectomy.

Since we last spoke, Jos has created a GoFundMe scholarship program for women who are going through similar situations to train with her. We all know that once being an athlete has become part of our identity, having it stripped away can be devastating. Jos aims to restore that identity for other women.

You can donate to the GoFundMe at:   https://www.gofundme.com/f/strength-after-a-mastectomy?utm_medium=sms&utm_source=product&utm_campaign=p_susi-sms-welcome   You can find Jos online at bodyenroute.com   Other good resources for more information and other non-profit organizations doing great things:  https://www.politetumor.com/ https://thebreasties.org/ https://www.nationalbreastcancer.org/early-detection-of-breast-cancer/   We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.  

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

This is the first episode of a new series that digs into the details of what, when, and how to train for some of the most popular climbing destinations in the US and beyond. For our first episode of the series it only makes sense to start with the Red River Gorge. 

Find lots more tips for training for the Red at this episode's blog post.

Got a trip to the Red planned?  Check out our RRG Trip Prep Plans!

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

We are incredibly lucky to have Jess on our coaching team. She brings a wealth of knowledge, a background in many areas of training and performance, and she's the coolest. In this episode we discuss the differences between working out and training - and why working out might be just fine for you. 

Follow Jess on Instagram.

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss the top 5 ways you can - if you are so inclined or need to - shorten your climbing sessions without sacrificing quality:

1. Have a Plan (and a backup plan)
2. Have your Warmups Dialed
3. Get to the Point (FOLLOW the plan)
4. Eliminate Distractions
5. Set a Time Limit

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today we rewind to an episode of Breaking Beta where Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing:

Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performance Authored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. Chidley, and Nick Draper; published in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance in January, 2020.

They’ll attempt to determine whether or not movement skills in climbing can even be measured reliably, and if the proposed system translates to anything useful for everyday climbers and coaches trying to assess movement.

 

This episode originally aired on July 27, 2022.

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

More Episodes of Breaking Beta: The Science of Climbing Podcast

____________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

____________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

____________________

📚CHAPTERS

(00:00) Notes From Kris

(3:11) Introduction

(6:48) Methods

(15:37) Results and Our Thoughts

(27:37) What Should Come Next?

(34:34) Wrap Up

(39:28) Credits and Theme