The Nugget Climbing Podcast (Steven Dimmitt)
Explorez tous les épisodes de The Nugget Climbing Podcast
| Date | Titre | Durée | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 13 May 2021 | Follow-Up: Ken Klein — The 3 Things We Should Be Assessing As Climbers (Teaser) | 00:15:47 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ken Klein from the Climb Strong Team. We talked about Ken’s high school baseball coach, the documentary In Search of Greatness, and the 3 things we should be assessing as climbers. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:23:45. | |||
| 21 Jun 2021 | EP 74: Tom Randall on Patience, Finger Training, and the Late Night Climbing Show | 01:17:55 | |
Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my own finger strength journey. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall Nuggets: 3:35 – The cellar 6:47 – Patron Question from Felix: Why did Tom start Lattice Training, and how important is data? 11:25 – Meeting Ollie Torr and testing his finger strength 14:15 – How Tom helped Ollie improve his endurance and efficiency, and a message about patience 18:19 – What Tom did to get strong 23:14 – Key TRX and rings exercises for the shoulders 28:30 – My finger strength journey, and Tom’s insight into my training habits 37:59 – Finger training methodology, and off-season vs in-season training 45:50 – Is increasing training capacity (work capacity) a good goal? 49:20 – Hangboard protocol principles 54:47 – Patron Question from Sarah: Should new climbers “just climb” rather than train? 59:29 – Question from Steve McClure: Common deficiencies in route climbers who want to improve their standard? 1:02:39 – Question from Vijay: Relationship between finger strength and grade? 1:04:12 – Question from Lena: Favorite non-crack climb? 1:05:03 – Question from Lena: Most horrible crack climb you’ve ever done? 1:05:55: Bonus question from Lena: If you could put Jacob Schubert on any crack climb, which would you choose? 1:06:35 – Question from Nick: Balancing fun and hard work 1:08:41 – The Late Night Climbing Show 1:14:42 – The Lattice YouTube channel 1:16:02 – Gratitude | |||
| 04 Feb 2021 | Follow-Up: Mike Doyle — How to Maintain Finger Strength While Sport Climbing (Teaser) | 00:14:39 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mike Doyle. We talked about some of the exercises that have helped Mike in his recovery from his elbow injury, working with Natasha Barnes and retraining his brain to reduce pain, and Mike shared his go-to hangboard protocol for maintaining finger strength throughout the year between training blocks. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 30:04. | |||
| 13 Sep 2021 | EP 86: Dylan Barks — Spray Wall Sessions, RMNP Rampaging, and Recovering From an Eating Disorder | 01:41:56 | |
Dylan Barks is an elite-level boulder and sport climber, and a dark horse in the climbing scene. He sent ‘Creature from the Black Lagoon’, his first V16, just two weeks after this interview. We talked about how Dylan uses a spray wall for 95% of his training, how he prepares for both bouldering and sport climbing trips, and about recovering from an eating disorder to climb his hardest ever. Support the Podcast: Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dylan-barks Nuggets: 4:00 – Vanlife pipedreams, Dylan’s work and school, and finding his groove climbing outside 7:05 – Being in both the competition and outdoor worlds 8:30 – Bad haircut timing, and the alpine as a harsh and special place 11:32 – How Dylan prepared for his trip to RMNP, and spray wall training for both bouldering and sport climbing 14:11 – Dylan’s training philosophy, and why he uses the spray wall 16:24 – The value of benchmarks, and mixing limit bouldering with perfect repeats 17:58 – ‘A Day in Boone’, how Dylan has trained his capacity, and session format 21:40 – The line between capacity training vs. junk mileage 23:45 – Deep dive: spray wall session format 26:32 – 60 move circuits, running, and pushing through vs. resting 31:23 – Watching Dylan on ‘Wild Cat’, and his story about competing against Daniel Woods 37:00 – Internalizing the feeling of a move, and bringing intention to all of your climbing 39:17 – Sending ‘White Noise’, and finding another gear on this trip 40:20 – Taking the lower grade, and being his own harshest critic 41:32 – Where Dylan sees a lot of climbers going wrong in their training and improvement 43:44 – Coaching Jon, and coaching the team in MI 45:43 – Starting climbing at summer camp 46:33 – ‘Southern Smoke Direct’, taking a hiatus due to an eating disorder, and the light at the end of a dark tunnel 48:52 – Sharing about an eating disorder, and how Dylan’s struggle started 51:51 – Dysmorphia, and “Your body’s got it.” 56:00 – A couple of paragraphs from ‘Weighing In’ 1:01:13 – Trusting the process, seeing things working, and the tricks our mind can play on us 1:04:57 – Looking at old pictures 1:06:04 – What 18-year-old Dylan needed to hear 1:08:28 – Going to the hospital, rebuilding relationships, and turning things around 1:10:48 – Mike, and “feed the beast” 1:12:14 – Untapped potential for strength, and thoughts vs. actions 1:15:08 – Navigating negative thoughts 1:17:00 – Using your climbing and training as the main driver for body composition 1:20:19 – Climbing ‘Arrested Development’ second try 1:24:15 – Mindful climbing, and being in the present moment 1:25:52 – Practicing mindfulness 1:26:52 – If you could only do one more hard rock climb… 1:28:35 – That “click” 1:30:14 – Southern sandstone 1:31:21 – Go-to climbing shoes 1:33:02 – Warming up your technique 1:34:35 – Trying ‘Creature from the Black Lagoon’ 1:36:04 – School, and getting out his “ya yas” 1:37:25 – Aspirations to be a pro-climber? 1:39:01 – Vulnerability and the gift of sharing 1:40:10 – Gratitude, and meaningful connections | |||
| 08 Jul 2021 | Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap (Teaser) | 00:12:15 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Shanjean Lee. We talked about her recent free ascent of ‘Freerider’ on El Cap in Yosemite, and had some good laughs along the way. SJ also shared some of the biggest mental challenges she faced during the ascent, and a very “memorable” (and hilarious) moment from the side of the big cheese. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 50:27. | |||
| 28 Oct 2021 | Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body (Teaser) | 00:22:41 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Natasha Barnes. We talked about how each of us has changed as climbers from gaining muscle mass, how Natasha balances training for climbing with powerlifting, how powerlifting has made her a more patient athlete, encouraging vs. forcing adaptation, separating performing and training, and each of our climbing goals. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:16:25. Natasha's other episodes: Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes (our first one from April 2021) | |||
| 22 Jul 2024 | EP 230: Emma Hunt (Olympian) — Why Speed Climbing is Legit, the Mental Game & Strategy of Racing, & Chasing World Records | 02:12:13 | |
Emma Hunt is the US speed climbing record holder and will compete in the Paris Olympics. We talked about her intro to speed climbing, how strong you have to be for speed climbing, speed training, how speed shoes compare to other climbing shoes, her mental game and strategy in comps, prejudice against speed in the climbing world, whether the speed route will ever change, why speed is cool, and much more! Watch the Video Interview of this episode: EP 230: Emma Hunt — Uncut Video Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app for free! The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp! Use this link for 10% off your first month! Check out Mad Rock! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order! PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL! physivantage.com/discount/NUG20 Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emma-hunt Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:50) – Emma’s intro to climbing & speed (00:04:08) – “I just wanna go fast.” (00:06:48) – Keeping the fire lit (00:09:28) – Beta changes (00:12:08) – The Start, Dyno, and Top (00:13:10) – Speed nerds (00:16:19) – A rock climber first (00:18:10) – Post-Olympic plans (00:20:41) – How strong are speed climbers? (00:23:25) – How speed climbers train (00:28:42) – Training sections of the speed route (00:30:14) – Off-the-wall training (00:31:56) – Her coaches (00:35:06) – Speed shoes (00:44:59) – Other sports (00:46:27) – Rock climbing as a kid (00:48:27) – What makes Emma so good at speed (00:49:58) – Pre-race rituals (00:51:36) – Speed mental game (00:56:37) – Olympic vs. World Cup format (00:59:06) – Seeds & sides (01:00:39) – Strategy (01:05:01) – Riding waves (01:11:28) – More about the Olympic format (01:13:18) – Speed prejudice & Toyko combined format (01:27:51) – Future Bouldering & Lead comps (01:29:20) – Speed climbing in the mainstream (01:35:22) – We celebrate gold (01:40:39) – Barriers to speed (01:42:30) – Emma’s fastest time & goals (01:44:49) – Will the speed route ever change? (01:51:56) – 50-year-old goals (01:53:45) – Rapid fire questions (02:07:51) – Speed is cool | |||
| 22 Jan 2024 | EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts | 02:44:26 | |
Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn’t train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more! Check out C4HP or Schedule an Appointment With Tyler! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app for free! The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp! Use this link for 10% off your first month! REGISTER NOW for the PCC! www.performanceclimbingcoach.com Use code "NUGGET" for 10% off Early Bird pricing until Jan 28th! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson-returns Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:04:03) – The donut festival (00:06:26) – Tyler’s granite spray wall (00:07:46) – Mirrored boards (00:13:06) – Alcohol and more donuts (00:14:21) – Outline of topics (00:16:17) – Finger training topics (00:34:46) – How Tyler warms up for limit bouldering (00:41:58) – Hand training, recruitment, and coordination (00:49:23) – Summary of our session (00:50:21) – When to end a session (00:52:48) – Using a mix of tools (00:54:26) – Intensity vs. volume (00:59:49) – Building capacity off the wall (01:01:39) – Supplementing your climbing with less risky hand/finger training tools (01:05:22) – When to hangboard (and when not to) (01:09:42) – Learning and changing your mind (01:11:25) – Tyler’s guidance for me in Hueco (01:17:25) – Should we climb less? (01:20:24) – Lions don’t go jogging (01:21:53) – Making sense of Alex Megos’ and Adam Ondra’s training volume (01:23:31) – My takeaways for Hueco (01:24:47) – What Tyler learned from his trip to Squamish (01:30:02) – What is the campus board good for? (01:40:14) – How important is RFD in climbing? (01:44:33) – Common causes of injuries (01:52:32) – Transitioning back to hard climbing (01:54:55) – How your tendons change when you build capacity (01:58:29) – Do our tendons get thicker? (02:00:24) – Where does our long-term finger strength come from? (02:02:57) – What sets the best athletes apart? (02:07:46) – Takeaways (02:11:48) – How Tyler changes his clients’ training habits (02:14:41) – The future of finger training (02:18:04) – Calisthenics vs. strength training (02:26:19) – Are rings exercises strength training? (02:30:12) – More strength training takeaways (02:37:05) – Wrap up | |||
| 29 Apr 2021 | Follow-Up: Mercedes Pollmeier — Your Flexibility Questions Answered (Teaser) | 00:16:13 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mercedes Pollmeier. I asked for clarifications about the J-Curl and passive stretching, and we tackled Patron questions about individual bony morphology, improving the back bridge, when and how to stretch the hamstrings, whether it is ever too late to begin training flexibility, and Mercedes made a case for why flexibility training is as important as strength training for athletes. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:20:32. Resources: Kit Laughlin - Moving Pelvis in Pancake Position
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| 01 Apr 2024 | EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films | 01:35:53 | |
Carlos Mason is a filmmaker and the creator of SENDING, a new film featuring Ethan Pringle, Anna Hazelnutt, and Dan Beall. We talked about how a car commercial inspired this unique film, why he chose Bishop as the primary location, writing the poem that became the narrative for the film, the connections we form through climbing, how the in-between moments make up our experience, what it took to make the film, future film projects, and much more! Watch the Film: Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! Watch the Video Interview: EP 212: Carlos Mason — Uncut Video! Check out Tindeq! Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app for free!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-mason Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:49) – Carlos’ introduction to climbing (00:04:49) – Getting into filmmaking (00:06:09) – Bishop (00:11:34) – His vision for the film (00:14:59) – Cars (00:21:21) – Writing the narrative (00:28:31) – Friends (00:36:55) – Choosing the cast (00:47:28) – Choosing the climbs (00:52:16) – Ethan’s bat hang (00:55:25) – Dan and ‘The Process’ (01:04:46) – Choosing the music (01:14:55) – Post-production (01:21:38) – Recording VO (01:24:57) – Behind-the-scenes content (01:29:05) – Where to watch the film (01:29:32) – What’s next for Carlos (01:31:54) – Thanks and sponsors (01:33:57) – How lucky we are to climb | |||
| 14 Jun 2021 | EP 73: Kyle O’Meara — Favorite First Ascents, Experience vs. Strength, and Sharing the Love of Climbing | 02:38:49 | |
Kyle O’Meara is a high-level boulderer, route climber, and successful climbing coach. He’s a total lifer. We talked about his early climbing and development in the PNW, some of his favorite first ascents, outdoor bouldering vs. indoor training, climbing and life goals, discovering coaching, leading by example, and sharing the love of climbing with his team. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kyle-omeara Nuggets: 3:47 – Breakfast, day-old pastries, and experimenting with diet 7:55 – Food diary, sleep, and eating enough 15:42 – Early days in Leavenworth 19:32 – How Kyle started climbing, Merrimore Park, and planting the seed of coaching 26:46 – ‘Rampage’, first Leavenworth days, and Squamish 32:36 – Transitioning into sport climbing, his first 5.13, 37:16 – Kyle’s “Best of the best” list, and grading everything in Index grades 42:12 – ‘Crown Jewel’ 56:01 – Outdoor bouldering vs. indoor bouldering/training, and trying to beat the system 1:01:01 – Developing boulders by default and not by design, epics in Yosemite, and window cleaning 1:09:33 – Best of the best boulders in Yosemite 1:12:29 – Moving to Tahoe, discovering coaching, and Kyle’s path to improvement 1:18:43 – What Kyle wishes he had done differently in the past regarding training, and perfecting the art of projecting 1:24:01 – Climbing and life goals 1:27:14 – Experience over strength 1:28:41 – ‘Lex Luthor’, moving to Salt Lake, and coaching at Momentum 1:36:45 – Leading by example 1:41:17 – Themes among successful kids that Kyle has coached, and the contrast between Nathanial Coleman and Dalton Bunker 1:46:25 – Staying above the line, and climbing frequency 1:48:22 – Spending more days trying climbs, and how Kyle has integrated training 1:52:07 – ‘The All-Around Routine’, and committing to a training cycle for the first time 2:11:27 – Patron Question from Nolen: How does Kyle balance his performance in sport climbing vs. bouldering? 2:16:54 – The power of the psych, and following your motivation 2:20:26 – Patron Question from Lena: Top three footwork drills for kidlets? 2:25:50 – Patron Question from Evan: When is Kyle (The Voice) going to record children’s books or guided meditation? 2:30:34 – Gratitude | |||
| 09 Aug 2021 | EP 81: Hazel Findlay — The Ego, Fear of Falling, and Mental Training for ‘Magic Line’ | 01:31:53 | |
Hazel Findlay is a professional climber and mental training coach from the UK, known for her boldness on dangerous and difficult trad routes. We talked about common themes in mental coaching, how the ego manifests in our climbing, supporting your partners, fear of falling, and Hazel’s mental approach while projecting the legendary ‘Magic Line’, her first 5.14c. ClimbWell Retreat: Use code "NUGGET10" for 10% discount! Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/hazel-findlay Nuggets: 5:00 – Talking across time zones, and Hazel’s home in Wales 7:00 – Masters studies, Brexit + covid, and Hazel’s lifestyle these days 9:33 – Being trapped on the ferry curing covid 11:25 – Weather in Wales 16:11 – Priorities, balancing climbing, coaching, and school, and doing stuff that involves others 20:52 – Coaching is asking questions, and helping people figure out what they want and how they can get there 25:27 – The ego 27:42 – How the ego manifests in our climbing, and loosening our attachment to outcomes 30:52 – Patron Question from Tyler: What type of people are most likely to seek coaching? 33:42 – Patron Question from Tyler: Differences between men and women (in general) when it comes to fear of falling 37:05 – Patron Question from Tyler: Advice when supporting someone who is working on their mental game? 40:37 – More resources on fear of falling 41:32 – Patron Question from Kellen: Differences between advanced and new climbers when it comes to mental training needs. 43:17 – Patron Question from Will: How to balance between confidence vs. cockiness, and cultural differences in confidence 48:46 – Magic Line description 54:51 – Hazel’s mental practice while climbing Magic Line 58:18 – Jasna’s email, and what inspired Hazel about Magic Line 1:04:19 – Question from Jasna: How did Hazel prepare for the possibility of failure? 1:07:37 – Keeping your head and climbing better 1:08:40 – Daily mental practices 1:11:20 – Hazel’s thoughts on the lack of publicity of Magic Line 1:15:17 – Patron Question from Jen: Any advice from Hazel’s shoulder surgery and recovery? 1:24:03 – Patron Question from AnnaMarie: Most memorable climb? 1:25:03 – Next El Cap route? 1:25:56 – Escaping to Greece during covid, and her upcoming trip to the states 1:29:14 – How to connect with Hazel 1:30:18 – Gratitude | |||
| 24 Feb 2020 | EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream | 01:41:09 | |
Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stingray’ 5.13d in Joshua Tree, the allure of dirtbagging, training on the road, finding community, tips for onsighting, free WiFi, and learning patience. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brittany-goris Nuggets: 2:23 – Deciding to go to Joshua Tree, becoming infatuated with “The Dirtbag Thing”, and Brittany’s four goal-routes 5:17 – Racking up attempts on ‘Stingray’ and comparing it to ‘City Park’ 6:57 – ‘City Park’ and ‘Stingray’ compared to Brittany’s other hardest climbs 8:02 – Flirting with an overuse injury and her swollen right index finger 10:39 – The breakdown of ‘Stingray’ 14:33 – The weather as a factor, ideal conditions, and added sending pressure 16:55 – Thriving on pressure 17:59 – Brittany’s process working on ‘Stingray’, dealing with tendonitis, ring workouts, and supplemental training 22:24 – On or off mode, and Brittany’s life over the holidays, and vacation mode vs. projecting mode 26:42 – Brittany’s endurance base and why she didn’t need to focus on endurance for ‘Stingray’ 28:36 – Making an effort to get more sleep and drinking too much climber coffee 29:53 – The different catalysts that help Brittany find the “on mode” 31:22 – Embracing the “off mode”, and balancing the two modes 34:15 – Being discipline in specific ways, and being all in vs. moderation 35:34 – How Brittany chooses her objectives and where she travels to next and finding a sense of place 39:45 – Brittany’s thoughts on whether dirtbagging makes recovery harder, living in a CRV, and cooking meals in a JetBoil for a year 42:32 – Brittany’s beta for camp chairs and working remotely 45:54 – Favorite rest day activities, playing games, spending time with the people, and running and stretching to relax and Brittany’s version of meditation 48:32 – Writing and journaling, writing one sentence per day, and tracking time spent in each location 52:19 – How Brittany got into climbing and why she never fell in love with Bishop 54:36 – How Brittany thinks about bouldering vs. route climbing and her plans to get in shape for Yosemite 58:48 – Building on community from place to place, and the best thing about climbing 1:01:50 – Brittany’s approach to onsight climbing, onsighting tactics, and why it might be her favorite style of climbing 1:07:10 – Always going for the onsight, getting on ‘Weekend Whipper’, getting into sketchy situations, and Brittany’s close call this summer 1:10:14 – Balancing onsight climbing with redpointing and projecting, Brittany’s thoughts on (not) warming up, and sussing out a route for a 2nd go redpoint 1:16:53 – Creating art, making her van feel like home, and tips for feeling grounded on the road, van life, showers, remote working, and fast internet 1:21:51 – Early road rage and practicing patience 1:24:58 – Brittany’s struggle with self patience, and chasing her best self 1:25:43 – Reading, most impactful books, and dropping everything to pursue the love of climbing 1:28:26 – Developing routes vs. engaging with history and writing yourself into a pre-existing story 1:30:24 – Dreaming of Yosemite, unknowns, and learning mindset 1:32:57 – Plans for ‘The Stigma’ (aka ‘The Renegade’), ‘The Phoenix’, and ‘Cosmic Debris’ 1:34:53 – Brittany’s dream of climbing 5.14 on gear, sharing goals vs. the “pre-spray”, and bouldering on gear 1:36:43 – The thing Brittany is most grateful for lately 1:38:19 – The dirtbag dream—has it lived up to it? | |||
| 31 Aug 2022 | Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — How to Climb Hard Sport Routes and Improve for Decades (Teaser) | 00:29:51 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about his recent trip to Spain, sending Event Horizon 5.15b, training on his home wall, his 50:50 rule for projecting, how to train for sustained crux sections on sport routes, thoughts about The Fins Project, plans to move to France, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:32:46. Jonathan’s Other Episodes: EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist (Apr 20, 2020) EP 36: Climb Strong Team (Sept 21, 2020) Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist (Nov 12, 2020) | |||
| 18 Nov 2024 | EP 249: Chris Sharma — Finishing Hard Things, Reinventing Yourself, and Finding the Sweet Spot | 02:28:34 | |
Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinventing ourselves as climbers, the importance of finishing what you start, what he does in the off-season, mini objectives, embracing competition, finding contentment, having kids, and much more. Become a Patron: Crimpd: Or download the Crimpd app for free! PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. Revival Climbing Coalition: EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival) Mad Rock: Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-sharma Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:48) – Community & climbing alone (00:07:15) – A rapid ascension & crashing down (00:10:32) – Knee injury (00:13:29) – Reinventing our relationship (00:17:27) – La Dura Dura (00:20:07) – New challenges (00:27:32) – Chapters (00:29:59) – Finding the sweet spot (00:36:46) – Biographie & traveling in Asia (00:41:58) – Persistence & evolution (00:48:22) – Finishing what you start (00:52:32) – Should or should not (00:59:18) – Sleeping Lion & speed climbing (01:03:55) – First Round First Minute (01:11:17) – Paris Olympics (01:13:21) – Le Blonde & Perfecto Mundo (01:15:48) – Playfulness & mini objectives (01:19:43) – DWS during the off-season (01:27:21) – Santa Linya (01:32:30) – US Lead Nationals & competing again (01:40:17) – Paris 2028 (01:46:32) – Embracing competition (01:50:00) – The next generation (01:54:12) – The media churn (01:57:22) – JB Tribout’s advice (02:00:22) – “It’s cool to do hard shit. ” (02:05:18) – Finding contentment & having kids (02:12:32) – Ferrari (02:16:16) – Magic (02:19:12) – More psyched than ever (02:21:24) – Climbing for other people (02:25:10) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser | |||
| 29 May 2023 | EP 171: Leo Houlding — A Life of Adventure, Climbing Big Walls With Kids, and Epic Stories From El Cap | 02:29:35 | |
Leo Houlding is one of the greatest adventure climbers of all time. He’s put up new free routes worldwide from the Amazon Rainforest to the remote regions of Antarctica. We talked about his upcoming trip to Baffin Island, his childhood in the UK, using the fix-and-follow system to climb 2000’ big walls with his kids, epic stories from his El Cap days, what he learned from his worst injury, and much more! Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Rocky Talkie! Use this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios! Check out Rumpl! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/leo-houlding Nuggets: 0:02:54 – Prepping for his trip to Baffin Island 0:07:16 – Enjoying the logistics, and planning the food for a month-long expedition for three people 0:13:50 – Leo’s beta knowledge for expeditions, and going beyond roads 0:16:01 – Leo’s “little issue”, and base jumping off the top of Mount Asgard 0:23:56 – The challenge of attempting to free climb Asgard again 0:27:29 – Leo’s Instagram cover photo 0:29:16 – Writing his book, his mom and dad, and his adventurous spirit as a kid 0:33:39 – Leo’s first big adventure climb, Old Man of Hoy 0:37:24 – How his life has turned out compared to how he imagined it as a kid 0:38:24 – Being born at the right time 0:42:45 – Generations in Yosemite 0:45:18 – “Climb that goddamn mountain.” 0:49:49 – Adventuring with his kids 0:53:59 – Using the fix-and-follow system with the kids to climb big walls 1:00:56 – Climbing in the Wind River Range with Llamas and the kids 1:05:11 – Tips for keeping the morale high for kids 1:13:13 – Compromises with kids, and plans to take them out of school for an around-the-world mission 1:16:41 – “The days are long but the years are short.” 1:17:10 – My travels with my family around South America as a 5-year-old, and seeing the developing world as a kid 1:20:34 – A final tip for parents who want to adventure with kids 1:22:41 – Rest in peace Ammon McNeely ❤ 1:23:34 – The Alfa Romeo badge story 1:35:41 – Question from Sam Stroh: What are Leo’s thoughts on going ground up on The Prophet? 1:42:51 – Getting caught in one of the worst storms in Yosemite history, and doing the first free ascent of The Prophet 1:48:41 – Closer to the Edge 1:49:29 – The end of his Yosemite chapter 1:52:03 – Leo’s accident on Cerro Torre 1:56:41 – Leo’s expeditions to Antarctica 2:02:11 – Kite skiing 2:07:11 – Rock climbing at the end of the world 2:08:42 – “I wanted the most hardcore trip ever, and I got it.” 2:09:52 – His trip to the Amazon rainforest, and making The House of the Gods film 2:13:58 – Dropping loads out of an airplane into the rainforest 2:18:21 – Free climbing a new route on Mount Roraima 2:20:31 – More about Leo’s book Closer to the Edge, and the film 2.4 about adventuring with kids 2:23:35 – Why we should travel to the developing world 2:24:41 – Wrap up | |||
| 10 Apr 2023 | EP 164: Melina Costanza — Why Eating Food Makes You Awesome, Competing to Win vs. Not Lose, and Fun Facts With Melina | 02:30:27 | |
Melina Costanza is a competition powerhouse and the 2021 US Boulder National Champion. She opened up recently about her struggles with an eating disorder and decided to step away from competitions. We talked about her foot injury and surgery, why patent law is similar to climbing, how sports glamorize suffering, getting stronger during recovery, how gratitude can impact your training, and fun facts about Melina from ketchup to baby teeth necklaces. Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products! Check out Chalk Cartel! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! Check out Rumpl! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/melina-costanza Nuggets: 0:06:25 – Update on Melina’s foot surgery and recovery 0:10:27 – The patent bar exam, and similarities between patent law and climbing 0:15:15 – Legos, and being a nerd growing up 0:16:45 – How taking her first physics class improved her climbing 0:19:30 – Modern volume climbing 0:24:06 – How Melina is thinking about her climbing moving forward, and training for upcoming competitions 0:26:20 – Plans to get back into sport climbing, and Melina’s Tumbler account 0:28:31 – Why Melina decided to quit climbing in college 0:33:36 – Fun in competitions, and only doing competitions that she wants to be at 0:36:48 – Expectations and pressure, and competing to win vs. competing to not lose 0:42:25 – Competitions as data, and “shoulding” 0:45:21 – Melina’s Instagram post about her eating disorder, and the story of breaking her foot 0:50:40 – The distortion your mind experiences with an eating disorder, and how sports glamorize suffering 0:57:42 – How your identity becomes entangled in an eating disorder, and rewriting the stories you tell yourself 1:01:53 – The importance of including fat and carbs in your diet, and getting stronger quickly once she started fueling properly 1:09:54 – Taking a leap of faith, and being vulnerable publically to help others 1:15:40 – A comment from Nicole 1:16:23 – Patron question from Katja: What inspired her to go public with her story? 1:19:13 – Not letting her eating disorder define her 1:20:09 – Did talking about it publically help? 1:22:53 – Patron question from Ana: Did anyone bring up Melina’s weight as a concern? 1:24:50 – Patron question from Eric: How would someone bring up concerns about an eating disorder in a tactful way? 1:27:10 – Patron question from Zachary: How does Melina deal with intrusive thoughts around weight? How does she balance performance with recovery? 1:30:52 – Disconnecting morality from food, and sweets 1:34:31 – How not eating enough disrupts sleep 1:37:30 – Fun facts with Melina Costanza! 1:37:37 – Tattooing people in high school 1:39:02 – Ketchup 1:40:44 – Container store 1:42:05 – Whiteboards and houseplants 1:43:54 – Taylor Swift 1:47:41 – Doja Cat 1:49:46 – Sharks 1:50:18 – The meat packing industry in the early 1900s 1:51:59 – Parents and academics 1:54:17 – Training at home during covid with her brother, and the role of gratitude in training 1:59:07 – Current training, and getting strong 2:04:29 – Training her fingers for the first time, and using the Tindeq (use code NUGGET for $10 off!) 2:07:47 – How hard can Melina climb with one foot? 2:09:18 – More fun facts with Melina! 2:09:50 – Frozen peas 2:10:46 – Baby teeth necklace 2:11:50 – Forensic pathology DVDs 2:15:02 – Raw octopus 2:15:49 – Medival torture museum, and developing confidence 2:19:15 – Fencing 2:20:20 – Olympic aspirations 2:21:23 – A couple of questions from Tyson Schoene 2:26:19 – Wrap up | |||
| 30 May 2024 | EXTRA: Keenan Takahashi — Mustache Q&A, Highballing Near Misses, and Japanese Climbing Culture | 00:16:15 | |
Keenan betrays his mustache by revealing its deepest secrets, and then talks about his experience with 'Insomniac' V16, his trips to Japan, what stood out to him about the Japanese climbing culture, favorite anime, home wall dreams, footwork tips, and his nearest misses while highballing and how they changed his feelings about future highballs. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 57:20. Watch the Video Interview: EXTRA: Keenan Takahashi — Uncut Video Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Mustache Q&A Part 1 (00:07:38) – Sticky climber (00:09:00) – Finger strength (00:13:29) – Aesthetics (00:15:56) – Insomniac (00:17:42) – Japanese climbing culture (00:25:32) – Logistics of traveling to Japan (00:26:33) – Anime (00:27:07) – Realizing his potential (00:32:23) – Home wall dreams (00:35:20) – Ethan and Lucas (00:37:19) – Mustache Q&A Part 2 (00:39:09) – Best climbing years (00:42:12) – Footwork tips (00:45:39) – Benchmark Berkeley (00:46:14) – Shoutout (00:46:26) – Fast food (00:47:20) – A Little Life and highballing (00:50:09) – Doomsday (00:54:37) – Future highballs | |||
| 15 Dec 2022 | Announcing Merch! | 00:05:49 | |
Merch is here! I am SO excited about how the "hello friends" series turned out. Check out the Nugget shop for t-shirts, hoodies, and hats. All Patrons get free shipping! Buy Merch! Become a Patron and get free shipping! | |||
| 28 Feb 2022 | EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience | 02:04:24 | |
John Sherman is a bouldering legend. His nickname “Verm” (short for “Vermin”) is where the “V” in our bouldering grade system came from. We sat down in a cave in Hueco Tanks and talked about what bouldering was like 30+ years ago, early climbing shoes, highballing before crash pads were invented, out-of-body experiences, and how some of the boulders got their provocative names. Check out Chalk Cartel! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-sherman Nuggets: 0:08:00 – Recording in a cave in Hueco Tanks, and the Triple Crown of roof cracks 0:12:54 – Experiencing what climbing was like 30 years ago, and early climbing shoes 0:19:24 – What brought John to Hueco for the first time, falling in love with the bouldering there, and Mike Head 0:27:30 – John Gill, the legitimization of bouldering, and four technological advances in gear that changed climbing forever (sticky rubber, cordless drill, crash pads, and cams) 0:35:35 – What Hueco was like in the winter of 1982 0:39:42 – A day in the life back then, and making the first “crash pads” 0:45:14 – Chalk, and why sport climbing was the end of climbing as Verm learned it 0:47:47 – Using the same terminology to describe different ethics, and doing ‘See Spot Run’ ground up without crash pads 0:55:03 – Geckskin 0:57:15 – Historical tidbit (the Swiss guides) 0:58:04 – More context about ‘See Spot Run’ 1:02:24 – Adding layers to the bouldering experience 1:07:49 – The definition of “Kehl-geling”, and John’s out-of-body experience when climbing ‘The Thimble’ 1:20:00 – Why John wears two chalk bags when he climbs, and wanting to climb like Alex Sharp and Andy Parkin 1:23:59 – Wearing a helmet bouldering, and John’s New Jersey story about hitting his head 1:35:00 – Patron question from Aiden: What inspired you to write Stone Crusade? 1:41:57 – The Fiesta XXX Drive-In, and getting boulder problem names from a sex toy magazine 1:47:36 – How ‘Daily Dick Dose’ got its name, and living in the Quonset hut 1:52:44 – How John got the name “Verm” (short for “Vermin”) 1:53:46 – Patron question from Carmelo: Are we ever going to see Old Man Lightning? 1:54:54 – Patron question from Craig: Which bird most represents your personality? 1:56:32 – Why California Condors are John’s favorite birds, and individual personalities | |||
| 31 Jan 2022 | EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More | 02:10:47 | |
Amity Warme is one of the most badass trad climbers you’ve never heard of. She also has a master's in nutrition. We talked about her incredible season in Yosemite including ground-up free ascents of ‘Freerider’ and ‘Golden Gate’, the importance of logistics in big wall free climbing, what she learned growing up in gymnastics, training plans, and eating more to do more. Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! Check out PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/amity-warme Nuggets: 0:06:14 – Winter weather in the PNW 0:11:19 – My first impression of Amity, and her Yosemite season tick list 0:13:11 – How to get good climbing photos (of yourself) 0:18:05 – The prerequisite skills required to have a successful season free climbing in Yosemite, and being willing to suffer 0:22:27 – Some of Amity’s background in climbing before showing up to Yosemite 0:25:33 – Meeting Hans Florine, deciding to go to Yosemite, and a surprise ground-up free ascent of ‘Freerider’ 0:30:00 – Sending ‘Golden Gate’ ground up 0:31:56 – Learning how to haul on the side of Will’s van 0:33:44 – Patron question from Cody: What is the best way to acquire the hard skills of multi-pitch and big wall climbing? 0:34:55 – “It’s always worth being willing to go for it”, and redefining what success is to you 0:36:49 – How to care a lot about something while being detached from the outcome 0:38:03 – The importance of technical climbing vs. logistical skills when it comes to big wall free climbing 0:41:42 – What Amity taught Tyler about free climbing efficiency up on ‘Golden Gate’, and what she learned from Tyler about logistics, rope systems, and living on the wall 0:45:53 – Patron question from Nolan: Where does Amity’s ground-up ethic come from? 0:49:04 – Patron question from Rob: How do you prepare for a ground-up ascent? 0:51:02 – Patron question from Savva about what it was like climbing ‘Golden Gate’, and Amity’s first time climbing the Monster Offwidth 0:57:10 – How Amity plans to prepare for her next Yosemite season, and planning to train for the first time 1:01:07 – Amity’s background in gymnastics, and sending a 5.10 her very first time climbing 1:07:36 – Climbing as a lifetime sport 1:10:52 – Residual injuries from gymnastics 1:13:46 – Patron questions from Martin and Ainsley: What from gymnastics has served you most in climbing? 1:15:33 – Oppositional exercises from gymnastics that Amity still does, and doing ring exercises on the road 1:17:11 – Amity’s weaknesses and plans for training this winter 1:22:05 – Rest nights vs. rest days, and getting energy out vs. recovering to try a hard project 1:25:18 – Studying nutrition and helping climbers eat more to support their climbing 1:28:32 – The prevalence of under-fueling in climbers, and eating more without gaining weight 1:33:29 – The complexity of the energy-in-energy-out equation, and why losing weight is a bad long-term strategy 1:37:48 – Thoughts on protein amounts, timing, and sources, targeting carbohydrates around activity, and eating a variety of different foods 1:42:46 – Replacing weight goal with performance goals 1:45:19 – My experience with elevated blood sugar from a food sensitivity 1:50:07 – How to connect with Amity, and her vision for future work and nutrition coaching 1:51:51 – Patron question from Rob: How does Amity plan her nutrition for big wall projects? 1:57:07 – Amity’s next climbing goal, and the next step in her registered dietitian journey 1:59:36 – What inspires Amity 2:03:09 – How Amity hopes to empower others 2:07:26 – Wrap up | |||
| 02 Feb 2023 | Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A (Teaser) | 00:40:24 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Aidan Roberts is back on the podcast for a proper geek-out about cutting-edge bouldering! We talked about sending Alphane V17, how he and Ollie tweaked his approach to focus on power over the winter, his plans to try futuristic (V18) projects back in Switzerland, and Aidan answered your questions about his training, finger strength, board climbing, flexibility, nutrition, lifestyle, and more! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:53:31. *Watch the uncut video interview here! Aidan’s Original Episode: EP 142: Aidan Roberts (Oct 31, 2022) | |||
| 12 Oct 2020 | EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift | 01:02:10 | |
Matt Fultz is a professional climber who is at the top of the bouldering game right now. We talked about sending ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, a typical day of projecting, deadlifting for finger strength, prioritizing strength before weight, practicing like you play, Mad Rock shoes, using your build as a gift, and starting OTG Strength with his wife Hailey. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-fultz Nuggets: 2:22 – The send McFlurry, and a well-earned “cheat day” 5:06 – ‘Hypnotized Minds’ 5:41 – Matt’s active rest day before a project day, and warming up for V16 8:52 – Raising your body temp before climbing 9:39 – Splitting time between projects, active rest days in the gym, and crimping on Hypno 11:22 – What a project session looks like, and “I always go by feel” 14:01 – What the send session looked like, Matt’s send temps, and “the colder the better” 15:28 – Using your build as a gift, scrunch power, and working on weaknesses while taking advantage of strengths 18:22 – “Strength comes first” 18:52 – Balancing performance with training 21:38 – “Practice like you play”, climbing on boards, the role of weight lifting, and “the most important thing is climbing” 23:48 – Matt’s go-to weight-room exercises, and a teaser for OTG (more later in the episode) 24:03 – Deadlifting w/ Tension Blocks vs. hanging from a hangboard 26:48 – Matt’s grip selection for finger training, and grip training frequency (Off Season: every other day. Performance Season: once or twice per week) 29:07 – How Matt decides between the different boards he climbs on 30:52 – The importance of a strong support system 33:10 – Matt’s trip to Australia w/ Jimmy Webb, Paul Robinson, and Nalle Hukkataival, and bouldering with a new level of detail 35:07 – Nutrition timing, and planning meals around climbing, or vice versa 37:08 – Matt’s pre-workout meal 38:37 – The Mad Rock ‘Drones’ 42:16 – Drones sizing (about 1.5 to 2 US sizes down from your street shoe) 44:50 – OTG Strength and how to train with Matt 49:24 – Balancing working/coaching with climbing 50:52 – Switching gears after ‘Hypnotized Minds’, project shopping, and climbing for fun 52:23 – Moving to CO and having access to a lot of hard boulders 53:40 – Dreams of van life 54:26 – Gratitude 55:30 – Where to connect with Matt 56:03 – Progressing every year, drawing inspiration from Jimmy Webb and Dave Graham, and goals 58:34 – The RV Moonboard 1:00:03 – “We will enjoy our Oreos today” | |||
| 29 Jun 2020 | EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt | 01:04:43 | |
Paige Claassen is a professional rock climber and the founder of the Southern Africa Education Fund. We talked about pre-send rituals, breathing techniques, how she changed her diet to improve recovery, recent training, how she structures bouldering and outdoor sessions, learning from each attempt, and favorite crag snacks. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paige-claassen Nuggets: 1:55 – “Coming to you live from my closet!” 3:04 – Frangog 4:44 – Learning to try hard, and reminding yourself that “I’ve sent in the past when things weren’t perfect” 8:26 – ‘Just Do It’, deep audible breaths, and clicking into the moment 11:45 – Pre-send rituals, working with a biokineticist, and activation points 14:28 – Paige’s thoughts on audible breathing 17:36 – Breathing beta, composing yourself, and “Everyone loves climbing on jugs” 19:03 – ‘Odin’s Eye’, eating more protein, training differently, and becoming a different climber 24:21 – Gym bouldering for power 27:15 – How Paige structures a bouldering session, and focusing on quality over quantity 28:59 – Training seasonally, and how Paige structures outdoor climbing sessions 30:33 – Day on day off 31:34 – Finding what works for you, and owning it 32:06 – A mental shift to not performing in the gym 33:24 – “I just love projecting.” 34:31 – Believing in the process, tricep pushups, and recent training during quarantine 39:42 – Losing ten pounds by eating more fat, protein amounts, and collagen for fingers and skin 44:20 – Southern Africa Education Fund (SAEF), building school buildings, and a new playground 49:24 – Mentorship, open and learning, and living in an exciting time 51:43 – Gratitude for family 53:14 – Current favorite climbing snack, and “I’m not afraid of carbs.” 56:01 – Fish tacos and buffalo cauliflower 57:35 – ‘Shadowboxing’, 5.15 as a goal, and climbing more 5.14+ routes in North America 59:58 – ‘Dreamcatcher’ 1:00:50 – Learning from each attempt, frustrating to fun, and “if we’re not having fun there’s no point 1:02:35 – “Treat yourself as you would treat others.” 1:03:20 – Completing the Yurdin family (minus Kasbah) | |||
| 13 Nov 2023 | EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do | 02:55:52 | |
Will Anglin is an expert boulderer and the founder of Tension Climbing. I love the way this guy thinks, and there are many nuggets in this episode. We talked about the key principles of climbing hard, the most common confusion points about training for climbing, why we should treat climbing like baseball, the number one thing all climbers should do, the evolution of Tension, why it took 10+ years to develop the Tension Board 2 (TB2), why every detail matters when building a new product, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! Check out Wonderful Pistachios! WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp! Use this link for 10% off your first month! Check out Green Chef! Use code "nugget250" at checkout for $250 off! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-anglin Nuggets: 0:00:00 – Intro/Ads 0:05:06 – Eggs and espresso 0:06:55 – Focus on protein to save mental energy 0:09:49 – Cat litter 0:10:56 – Two main topics I want to cover with Will 0:13:06 – An email I sent Will in 2015, and why I transitioned away from the Anderson brothers’ way of training 0:17:49 – Will’s early climbing, youth competitions, wanting to be strong, and getting into training 0:26:28 – Will’s first time deep water soloing at Summersville Lake 0:27:57 – Trad climbing in the Black Canyon 0:31:26 – Pivoting to bouldering, and the bouldering vs. sport climbing in Colorado 0:35:56 – Why Will has spent more time developing boulders than sport climbs, and why people chip routes 0:40:02 – Chipping in bouldering, and suspending your disbelief 0:47:09 – Why the “best way to train” is not a useful concept 0:54:26 – Why it doesn’t make sense to copy the pros 0:55:48 – The baseball analogy 0:59:04 – Why your hangboarding should change over the course of your climbing career 1:00:13 – Working on skills at sub-maximal intensity, and learning to connect training with rock climbing skill development 1:03:44 – “Keep the goal the goal.” - Dan John 1:05:19 – The best climbers are the most adaptable climbers 1:09:01 – Will’s ‘Hangboarding: A Way’ article, and the most common confusion points and questions that Will gets about advice he’s given in the past 1:10:59 – Why you shouldn’t take time away from your climbing time to do more strength training 1:14:48 – It’s normal to fail on climbs that are easier than your max redpoint grade 1:17:04 – Why I started seeking out more “basic” power climbs, and how modern training is affecting outdoor bouldering grades 1:19:37 – How styles and grades evolve over time 1:24:15 – “The concept of a well-rounded climber moves.” 1:25:52 – Why people used to say Joe’s Valley is soft, and how gym climbing shapes our conception of climbing 1:30:35 – Conflating doability with difficulty, and finding the beta that fits you 1:33:51 – Why Will feels like he learned how to climb in Gunnison, and the value of climbing on different rock types 1:35:54 – Discovering that hard climbs can be fun, and wow traveling has allowed me to discover what I actually enjoy most in climbing 1:39:39 – Why grades tend to become more confusing as you progress, and the weirdness at the top-level grades 1:43:09 – The unconstrained nature of climbing, and box checking 1:49:07 – “It’s not about the exercise.” 1:54:00 – “The number one thing is go rock climbing.” 2:00:54 – How not all climbing styles are created equal in the way they develop you as a climber, and why I’m so impressed with the Tension Board 2 2:04:43 – Our culture’s obsession with climbing, and validating climbing just because it’s fun 2:07:23 – The Climbing Community is Imaginary 2:08:49 – There are many valid ways to “be a climber” 2:11:14 – How Will feels about climbing after building Tension, having no breaks from it, and creating separation between his personal climbing and his business 2:13:59 – One of Will’s main priorities with Tension, having a life outside of Tension and climbing, playing musical instruments, having carpal tunnel, and building guitars 2:20:12 – The evolution of Tension, and how the company started 2:28:56 – How the Flash Board came to be 2:30:49 – More about the development of the Tension Board 2 2:36:54 – Designing the holds for the TB2, and why the design process should start with the raw materials 2:42:24 – Getting benighted in the Black Canyon 2:48:31 – “Everything fucking matters.” 2:50:29 – Take the time to build a solid foundation 2:52:48 – Wrap up | |||
| 15 Aug 2022 | EP 131: Ryan Devlin — Life as a TV Actor, Progressing From 11b to 12c in a Year, and How Pro Climbers Relate to Struggle | 02:49:38 | |
Ryan Devlin is a television actor, entrepreneur, philanthropist, rock climber, and host of his new podcast The Struggle Climbing Show. We talked about parallels between climbing and being a TV actor, the role of chemistry in dating, how to deal with rejection, progressing from 11b to 12c in a year in his 40s, and biggest takeaways from interviewing top climbers on his podcast. Listen to more top episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be Check out Petzl! Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Feals! Use this link to get 50% off your first order and free shipping!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ryan-devlin Nuggets: 0:07:15 – My Parent’s Basement Productions 0:09:35 – Junk food 0:12:20 – Returning to the Midwest 0:17:59 – How far Midwesterners commute to climb at the Red River Gorge 0:20:36 – The TV show ‘Are You the One?’, and why you might recognize Ryan in the grocery store 0:30:08 – A question from Allison Vest, and the role of chemistry in dating 0:37:20 – Similarities between the climbing world and the TV/acting world, and creating your own luck 0:43:20 – How Ryan deals with rejection, and building happiness that is not based on outcomes 0:49:19 – Being afraid of falling, Ryan’s first-ever trad lead, and how climbing has impacted his acting (and his life) 0:56:05 – How Ryan got into climbing, and his first day climbing at Tahquitz 1:07:25 – Getting into sport climbing and training in his 40s, and progressing from 11b to 12c in a year 1:16:50 – Early lightbulb moments in Ryan’s training journey 1:23:11 – Getting more days in at the crag 1:29:44 – Why Ryan decided to create The Struggle Climbing Show 1:38:00 – How the pros relate to struggle, and what the rest of us can learn from that 1:48:39 – Drinking from a firehose of information, and letting go of finding “the best way” to train 1:55:21 – Mental game, fear, gratitude, and Alex Honnold and Hazel Findlay’s mental approaches 2:00:01 – Hollywood love scenes, and being starstruck by Lynn Hill and Harrison Ford 2:07:53 – Podcasting and community 2:10:17 – Starting a Forest School, and looking at the world through kids' eyes 2:14:56 – Camping, van windows, and blackout curtains 2:18:33 – Vanlife, and climbing with Jordan Cannon and Alex Honnold 2:30:24 – The climbing experience scales 2:31:29 – Ryan’s hopes and dreams as a rock climber 2:37:50 – Ryan’s plans for Season 2 of The Struggle Climbing Show 2:44:30 – Wrap up | |||
| 01 Apr 2021 | Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Listener Q&A, and Training “The Position” (Teaser) | 00:37:39 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Natasha Barnes. I asked for your questions for her on Instagram, and we tackled a wide range of topics including in-season training, shoulder mobility for climbers who lift weights, whether we should tape injured fingers, recommendations for aging climbers, why climbers shouldn’t be afraid of bulking, dealing with lower back pain, training “the position”, cactuses vs succulents, Moose the cat, printer issues, and maintaining the power mullet. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 2:06:41. | |||
| 15 Feb 2021 | EP 55: Kai Lightner — Disordered Eating, Flexibility for Tall Climbers, and Climbing for Change | 01:39:13 | |
Kai Lightner is a professional climber and the founder of Climbing for Change. We talked about how Kai discovered climbing, his reflections on an eating disorder, the importance of flexibility for tall climbers, early racist encounters, starting a non-profit to help open doors for other people, and some of Kai’s favorite training music. Support Climbing for Change: donorbox.org/climbing-for-change-launch Support the Podcast: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kai-lightner Nuggets: 2:53 – Tension boarding, creativity in climbing, and Kai’s first experience with hangboarding 6:55 – Kai’s go-to training music 8:01 – Halloween costumes, and the Tupac and T.I. quotes Kai shared in his graduation speech 10:39 – The Olympics, Kai’s early role models, Chris Brown’s music, and Kai’s mom 11:24 – Growing up climbing everything, the flagpole story, and Kai’s first day in a climbing gym 16:16 – Kai’s first climbing gym, climbing on the same route to prepare for nationals for five years, and driving 6 hours to get coaching 19:13 – Getting into competitions climbing, and most memorable competitions from 14 years of competing 22:15 – Going climbing outdoors at the New River Gorge, being the only black people in a 50-mile radius, and navigating unwelcoming areas 25:19 – Kai’s first racist encounter, and “the race talk” 28:25 – Outdoor climbing as a break from the pressure of competitions, and taking a break from competing to go to college on a full scholarship 31:01 – ‘Reflections on My Climbing Journey’, and Kai’s struggle with an eating disorder 36:33 – Quick vs. sustainable, and finding a better way to be better 38:10 – Thinking about food in a healthier way, climbing 5.14+ at 5’3” and 6’3”, and adapting to a grown-up body 40:27 – Kai’s feelings about projecting, and his longest project to date 41:59 – How Kai’s training has changed as an adult, a typical week of training, and Kai’s coach 45:40 – Looking up to Adam Ondra, stretching for one hour every morning, and Kai’s drop knee stretch 52:05 – Why being more flexible = being a better climber 53:38 – Why Adam Ondra is the best 55:00 – Feeling more complete as a person by helping people 56:04 – Kai’s thoughts on climbing pace 58:31 – Patron Question: What is it like being the tallest professional climber out there? Does Kai run into any situations in which he thinks, “Damn, I wish I were shorter…” If so, how often? 1:01:35 – Patron Question from Joe: I’m 6’5” and I wonder if Kai has any rules or beta for climbing through scrunchy moves that you can’t reach past? 1:02:42 – Volunteering with diversity and inclusion organizations, opening doors for others, and bridging gaps 1:07:29 – Climbing for Change (C4C), partnering with One Climb in Atlanta, and launching scholarships for individuals 1:10:47 – Patron Question from Nathan: What challenges have you faced in developing C4C? 1:12:18 – How to donate to C4C 1:13:03 – Patron Question from Nathan: What are the benefits of having your mom as a coach? What are some of the difficulties? 1:16:34 – Patron Question from Nathan: Do you think you will ever get into trad climbing? How about big walls? 1:18:11 – Kai’s (very impressive) trip to the Hurricave, and aspirations to climb 5.15 1:21:12 – Patron Question from Anna: Having grown up in the spotlight, how does Kai view his private life vs. his public life, and does he struggle to find a balance? 1:23:43 – Patron Question from Sarah: If you could get every young climber to internalize one message what would it be? 1:25:24 – Most recent meal, Asian food, Cheetos, favorite songs, and the crying laughing emoji 1:30:27 – Family 1:31:04 – Excited about Climbing for Change 1:31:57 – Instagram, outfits, and sharing experiences to help others | |||
| 06 Mar 2023 | EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make | 01:59:14 | |
Tom Randall and Sam Van Boxtel are back on the podcast to discuss all things YouTube! We talked about YouTube as the future of climbing media, why Shawn Raboutou’s vlog is such a big deal in climbing right now, why I started a channel for The Nugget, how much money YouTubers make, the keys to being successful on YouTube, top advice for all content creators, and much more! Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Tom’s Other Episodes: EP 75: Tom Randall (June 21, 2021) Follow-Up: Tom Randall (Feb 17, 2022) Sam’s Other Episodes: EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel (Sept 5, 2022) Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Chalk Cartel! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-and-sam Nuggets: 0:08:10 – Pee bottles, Tom’s advice for vanlife peeing activities 0:10:11 – The Ultimate Peeing Van Bodily Fluid Dilema 0:12:57 – Welcoming Tom and Sam back on the podcast, and their other episodes (see show notes for links) 0:13:59 – Tom’s busy life, and being extremely intentional about what he chooses to do 0:15:58 – Tom’s quest to find the ultimate climbing experience in a single pitch, and climbing ‘Once Upon a Time’ E9 0:20:04 – Why are we recording an entire episode about YouTube? 0:23:49 – How often Tom gets recognized from YouTube, and why he’s so interested in where things are going 0:26:10 – It’s still early on YouTube 0:28:32 – Why is Shawn Raboutou starting his Vlog one of the biggest things to happen in climbing media in recent years? 0:33:11 – Why more pro climbers will likely move over to YouTube, and YouTube vs. Instagram payouts 0:36:35 – Why is YouTube the future of climbing media? 0:40:50 – Why long-form podcasts are similar to YouTube vlogs 0:43:44 – Why I launched a YouTube channel for The Nugget (link in show notes!) 0:46:20 – Why YouTube wins over static content 0:49:46 – What Tom has learned from growing the Lattice Training channel 0:52:57 – The importance of packaging your content well, the behind-the-scenes of YouTubing, comparing Anna Hazelnutt and Adam Ondra’s channels, and how much it costs to run a YouTube channel 1:00:25 – How technology levels the playing field for content creators 1:01:49 – How much do people make on YouTube, and where does the money come from? 1:07:27 – The keys to being successful on YouTube 1:12:55 – How hard Magnus Midtbø works to make his channel successful (see show notes for his podcast episode) 1:14:09 – Sam’s 3 keys to being successful on YouTube: Title, Topic, and Thumbnail 1:16:40 – The importance of organization and systems 1:19:12 – Sam’s recommendations for The Nugget’s channel, and filling out the ecosystem of the channel 1:23:58 – Tom’s advice for me, and making content specific to the platform you plan to share it on 1:32:49 – Why aren’t brands doing more on YouTube? 1:36:09 – What should climbing brands be doing as far as YouTube is concerned? 1:40:21 – Behind the scenes with brand sponsorships 1:43:55 – Tom’s advice for anyone who is thinking of starting a YouTube channel, and the hard work it takes to be successful 1:48:59 – What Tom is most excited to see on YouTube 1:50:36 – What Sam is most excited to see on YouTube 1:51:39 – What I am most excited to see on YouTube 1:53:23 – Wrap up, Tom’s upcoming trip to Austria, and Sam’s upcoming trips in the States 1:57:57 – Watch full uncut podcast videos on Patreon | |||
| 16 Dec 2022 | BONUS: Alita Contreras — Guerreras Film! | 00:44:13 | |
Alita Contreras is back on the podcast! We talked about her Fall project in the Red River Gorge, the lessons that routes can teach us, and a film project that she is currently working on with her friend Elisa Varlotta called Guerreras. The film will feature Colombian women and the beautiful local climbing in Colombia. Support the Guerreras GoFundMe! Follow on Instagram! | |||
| 05 Jun 2023 | EP 172: Brittany Leavitt — Seeking Change in Climbing, Unmasking, and Top Lessons From Teaching Kids | 02:12:35 | |
Brittany Leavitt is a climber, backpacker, educator, and the co-founder and CEO of Brown Girls Climb (BGC). We talked about Brittany’s climbing origin story, her unique family upbringing, unmasking and educating about race, teaching kids at the Smithsonian, the mission of BGC, creating more accessible spaces, lessons from her first road trip, using TikTok to stay informed, climbing goals, inspiration, and much more. Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! Check out Rumpl! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brittany-leavitt Nuggets: 0:05:20 – Working from home, and having a home office 0:07:38 – Why hasn’t Brittany taken the leap to traveling and climbing full-time while working remotely 0:10:20 – Being within community, and Brittany’s dream of part-time vanlife 0:15:15 – Brittany’s climbing origin story 0:20:24 – Outdoor Afro 0:21:04 – Brittany’s unique family dynamic, and having accessibility to the outdoors 0:24:06 – Unmasking, adoption as a trauma experience, and educating her family 0:31:00 – Protecting your own energy, giving space, and knowing when it’s worth it to argue with someone 0:34:25 – Family holiday recitals, and Brittany’s guitars 0:37:45 – The crossover of art and climbing, and singing around the campfire 0:40:12 – Wanting to be an educator, and teaching at the Smithsonian 0:46:33 – Musical theater with the kids 0:50:01 – Learning patience and empathy from working with kids 0:52:05 – Teaching life lessons through climbing, and working with community kids 0:54:15 – How to decide what to say yes to, and passing ideas on to someone else 0:58:25 – How Brown Girls Climb got started, and what it has become 1:06:26 – The mission of Brown Girls Climb 1:07:21 – What it feels like to have a space with people who share your experience 1:15:09 – Patron question from Adam: How can we make climbing events (like the Rendezspew and International Climbers Festival) more accessible to diverse communities? 1:24:11 – Brittany’s road trip to Bishop and Red Rocks in 2019, and writing a piece for Patagonia 1:30:27 – What Brittany wishes she had known before the trip, planning which gas stations to stop at, and safety considerations 1:35:11 – Favorite non-climbing memories from the trip, visiting famous movie locations, and first-time van living 1:41:55 – Doing her first highball boulder, and favorite climbing memories from her trip 1:44:37 – Brittany’s advice for folks who want to go on their first climbing road trip 1:50:01 – Brittany’s climbing goals in Rumney and The Gunks 1:52:32 – Mountain climbing and adventure goals 1:54:24 – Who inspires Brittany 1:57:28 – What Brittany wishes people understood more and spent more time thinking about 1:59:18 – Getting her news from TikTok 2:05:17 – Wrap up and what’s next for Brittany | |||
| 11 Mar 2021 | EP 59: My Eating Disorder — Starving Myself to Climb Harder, and Lessons Learned | 00:44:39 | |
In this solo episode, I share my experience with an eating disorder. I talk about how an inaccurate DEXA scan and a desire to climb harder spiraled into body dysmorphia, failure, and shame. I also talk about what led me out of it, reframing the way I think about weight, key lessons and takeaways, where I am at now with weight and diet, and how I plan to move forward. Support the Podcast: Show Notes: | |||
| 25 Jan 2021 | EP 52: Jon Glassberg (Part 1) — Filming Emily Harrington on ‘Golden Gate’, and Pursuing V15 | 02:05:03 | |
Jon Glassberg is the owner of Louder Than Eleven, a leading media production company in the Outdoor Industry. He is also a total crusher, having climbed 400+ boulders from V10 to V14. In part one we talked about filming Emily Harrington on her in-a-day ascent of ‘Golden Gate’, about Jon’s early climbing, about pursuing the goal of V15, and about his struggle with a bizarre injury. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-glassberg-part-1 Nuggets: 2:54 – Coffee, intermittent fasting, and being more productive in the morning 4:24 – Jon’s go-to breakfast on a climbing day, and on an El Cap filming day, and caffeine 6:20 – Getting back from Yosemite, and Jon’s five-year film project with Emily Harrington 8:03 – Emily’s scary fall in November 2019 13:17 – Emily climbing ‘Golden Gate’ in a day, and her dramatic fall near the top 23:23 – Emily’s grit, and how Alex Honnold is different than everyone else 28:18 – Jon’s perception of free climbing El Cap in a day, and why Emily’s accomplishment is so impressive 32:47 – Jerrydoodleberg 35:41 – Jon’s month trip to Yosemite, balancing work with climbing, and learning to be better with your time 40:32 – Being in Yosemite during covid, and the previous government shutdown 41:45 – Jon’s bouldering highlights from this Yosemite trip 44:36 – Why Jon prefers bouldering over big wall free climbing 46:41 – Existing on the side of El Cap 49:51 – Learning new systems, and being obsessed with efficiency 50:33 – Working with Steve Maisch, how Jon maintains finger strength during a shoot, and training on the Moonbaord during covid 54:40 – Jon’s training philosophy and the value of hangboarding (both physical and mental) 57:43 – The one-arm hangboard protocol Jon learned from Steve Maisch 1:00:17 – 3F drag repeaters, Jon’s finger strength, growing from 5’2” to 6’3” in a year, and building log cabins 1:04:03 – Climbing back when V12 was “hard”, Boone NC, graphic design school, early filming, and the underpants gnomes 1:09:39 – Grad school, almost buying a gym, and starting LT11 1:12:14 – The evolution of LT11, and working on his first feature film 1:17:31 – Emily’s accomplishment in context, and the history of women free climbing El Cap in a day 1:19:21 – The new school approach to big wall free climbing on El Cap, and shooting with Jorg Verhoeven 1:27:11 – The process of putting together a feature film (after filming) 1:34:35 – Balancing commercial work with storytelling 1:38:01 – The roll of a line producer, and how Jon uses Google Drive to keep track of projects 1:42:59 – Jon’s to-do list for life 1:44:43 – Jon’s V15 goal, working with Steve Maisch, and joking about weight classes in climbing 1:48:11 – ‘The Island’, Jon’s crazy injury, and crutching all over Red Rocks 1:57:06 – Jon’s limited mobility, putting on socks, and Jon’s thoughts on the wear and tear of bouldering 2:00:53 – A new philosophy for projecting, and a sample of Jon’s iconic boulders list | |||
| 27 Jul 2020 | EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities | 01:46:29 | |
Blake Cason is a mindfulness and work/life balance coach, and the founder of Pivot Wellness. We talked about bringing awareness to our relationship with climbing, practicing radical honesty, ways of strengthening the mindfulness muscle, cycling priorities, and ways that both Blake and I have struggled to find balance between work and climbing. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/blake-cason Nuggets: 2:01 – The first time Blake jugged a line, choss in the Canadian Rockies, and supporting Mike on ‘The Shining Uncut’ 8:19 – Intentionally showing up to support another person in climbing 9:58 – The relationship sandbox, and play and responsibility 13:53 – Common issues/areas that Blake works on with her clients and climbers 16:34 – Beauty in doing things that don’t have a point, and being out of alignment with what motivates us vs. what we’re actually doing 20:24 – “Shoulds”, guideposts, and self-imposed suffering 23:33 – Radical honesty, “is that working”, and slowing down 28:12 – Finding mindfulness through climbing, and her climbing relationship as a barometer 32:11 – Tuning into your body and your breath to return to the present moment 34:14 – Focusing on the breath, and code-switching 35:52 – Training the mindfulness muscle 39:43 – The practical use of mindfulness, and how to bring mindfulness to reflecting on the past or envisioning the future 42:50 – Mindfulness applied to climbing performance, “paying attention”, and finding language that resonates 44:57 – Savoring, loosening the grip, tapping into a growth mindset, and getting the whole brain firing 53:04 – Self-limiting beliefs, “Is being attached to that belief working?”, and the research behind the importance of self-compassion 58:28 – The brain-body connection, “abort mission”, and punting 1:01:18 – ‘Joe Six Pack’, recognizing a need, and choosing to walk away (for now) 1:05:31 – How Blake would work with a client who struggles with fear 1:12:59 – My (Steven’s) struggle with balancing the podcast with my own climbing and expectations 1:16:49 – Cycling priorities, and how Blake cycles her focus between her own climbing and her business, and values vs. priorities 1:23:56 – Using inspiration as a guide for priorities 1:25:57 – Zooming out 1:32:13 – Gratitude 1:32:55 – The area of mindfulness that Blake is working on currently 1:37:31 – Where to connect with Blake and how you can work with her 1:40:28 – Take a breath 1:42:49 – My free life coaching session, and send us questions! | |||
| 05 Jul 2021 | EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling | 01:11:50 | |
In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podcast behind-the-scenes secrets, my experience with feeling light vs. feeling strong, how I manage my weight after an eating disorder, favorite workouts for sport climbing, octopus wrestling, and much more. Become a Patron: Facebook Group: facebook.com/groups/thenuggetclimbing Private Q&As: thenuggetclimbing.com/coaching Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-2 Nuggets: 00:00 – Introduction, Patreon, New Facebook Group, and Private Q&As 05:18 – Scott’s Question: Party tricks vs. useful exercises? 11:05 – Brandon’s Question: How are you training for ‘Just Do It’? 20:49 – Nolan’s Question: Regarding JDI, which skills/strengths fall short for you, and which ones do you think are adequate? 23:56 – Nolan’s Question: Can you build your sport climbing pyramid and bouldering pyramid at the same time? 29:02 – Conner’s Question: Is your current lifestyle (van, travel, podcast, etc.) financially sustainable? 31:11 – Jimmy’s Question: Favorite workouts for transitioning from boulder to sport mode? 34:40 – Liam’s Question: How do we balance climbing or training in safe positions, with preparing our bodies for tweaky moves? 37:20 – Alec’s Question: What does the edit process look like for you? 38:20 – Alec’s Question: What do you talk about in your pre-show call? 39:30 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any insights into learning to climb fast? 41:40 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any proud ascents from Hueco? 43:03 – Alec’s Question: How do you do weight training on the road? 43:54 – Alec’s Question: Area’s you’ll plan on climbing in for the rest of the year? 44:50 – Jeff’s Question: How does the sensation of feeling light compare to feeling strong? 49:30 – David’s Question: How do you manage your weight, and how do you manage your thoughts linked to your eating disorder? 53:54 – Emma’s Question: How can I get better at climbing technique? Is it as simple as climbing more? 58:00 – Emma’s Question: What exercises beyond the hangboard are most useful for bouldering strength? 1:00:12 – Casey’s Question: Any supplements you take? 1:02:02 – Casey’s Question: Tips for focusing before hard efforts on an onsight? 1:03:38 – Casey’s Question: Any thoughts on where you’d like to settle eventually? 1:04:33 – Casey’s Question: Any trashy TV you’ve been addicted to, or are you somehow immune? 1:05:52 – Casey’s Question: How much do you love watching good dancers on the internet? 1:06:34 – Casey’s Question: MAA match between 800 lb octopus and an 800 lb raccoon, who wins? 1:07:27 – Casey’s Question: What are you grateful for? | |||
| 11 Apr 2022 | EP 114: Q&A 5 — My Current Finger Training Routine, How to Deal With Bad Body Image, and Golden Nuggets for Newer Climbers | 02:05:50 | |
In Q&A 5, I tackle Patron questions about my own current hangboard training, how to fit everything in that we need to train, how to deal with bad body image, how my training and climbing have changed since starting the podcast, golden nuggets for newer climbers, where I found the theme song for the podcast, my van life internet setup, and much more. *Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timestamps below. Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-5 Nuggets: 0:03:55 – Intro and updates 0:07:41 – My Personal Climbing / Training / Goals: 0:07:41 – Vincent: Current finger strength routine? 0:15:16 – Vincent: What does your current training cycle look like? 0:18:24 – Konstantinos: What are your European dream sends? 0:20:24 – Daniel: If you could send the next grade by sacrificing something pleasurable, what would it be? 0:22:20 – Christoph: How did it go trying to free Moonlight Buttress? Are you going back? 0:24:18 – Christoph: Plans for Yosemite this year? 0:26:00 – Matt: Top 3 go-to climbing shoes? 0:28:04 – André: What grade do you honestly feel is your absolute limit in bouldering? 0:29:27 – André: Do you miss some of the body strength exercises you used to do a lot? (Pistol squats, deadlift, etc.) 0:32:17 – Xander: How have these podcasts shaped the way you climb and train? 0:36:25 – Training / Climbing Advice: 0:36:25 – Konstantinos: What would be your golden climbing nugget towards newer climbers? 0:40:19 – Briana: How do you fit in all of the different types of training that seem necessary, without getting too fatigued? 0:44:34 – Neal: Verm mentioned curing his chronic elbow tendonitis by primarily training his shoulders. Do you have any insights into this? 0:47:42 – Nutrition / Body image: 0:47:42 – Savva: How do you deal with bad body image? 0:52:25 – Savva: How do you decide how to eat and rest without getting obsessive or spending a fortune? 0:54:37 – My Background / Route Setting: 0:54:37– Justin: Furthest you got from the WWU rec center and found tape on your shoe? 0:55:30 – Justin: Biggest positive change in commercial climbing gyms vs. when you started? Biggest negative change? 0:58:06 – Justin: Did WWU shape your climbing experience for the better? How do you think modern collegiate climbing experiences compare? 1:00:30 – Will: Did you have a favorite setting style as a route setter back in college? 1:01:52 – Will: Did you set at a bouldering or a rope climbing wall? 1:03:58 – Vanlife / Traveling / Lifestyle: 1:03:58 – Savva: How do you plan your climbing trips? 1:07:08 – Savva: Biggest expenses doing van life? 1:08:23 – Ainsley: Cultural differences between different climbing areas? Biggest takeaways from traveling? 1:10:46 – Briana: Is it difficult to find partners on the road? Any tips for finding partners for roped climbing? 1:12:38 – Fil: Any thoughts on how to fill your non-climbing time when living in a van? 1:15:08 – Skyler: Where do you like to climb during the summer? 1:16:06 – Joe: Favorite go-to dinners in the van? 1:17:42 – Liam: Internet setup in the van? 1:19:32 – Personal / Fun / Random: 1:19:32 – Casey: If you could have been a pro athlete in any other sport when you were young, what would you be? 1:20:57 – André: Top 2 climbing places outside of the US you would like to know and why? 1:22:17 – André: Who's is the freakiest climber you've seen perform live, and how was it? 1:25:32 – Savva: How does your family feel about climbing? 1:26:41 – Savva: What do you want to try / learn / experience / send next year? 1:29:35 – Savva: What’s the last book you enjoyed or found important? 1:31:22 – Vincent: As your fame grows, how do you see yourself changing? 1:33:21 – Vincent: What things you didn't think about when you started this venture have become important for you? 1:34:43 – Vincent: Are there any things that felt important when you started, such as training and climbing outdoors, that have changed in priority? 1:35:51 – Daniel: Are you thinking of settling down any time soon? 1:37:14 – Daniel: Are you dating now? Do you want kids? 1:38:44 – Darren: What are you grateful for and why did you stop asking that question? 1:41:12 – Podcast / Podcasting Goals: 1:41:12 – Taylor: How did you choose the theme song for the Nugget? 1:42:58 – Taylor: What podcasts does a podcaster listen to? 1:45:54 – Ainsley: When you say “I’ll link to that in the show notes”, are you just leaving yourself a reminder to do it when you listen back? Was this conscious when you started? 1:47:36 – Daniel: Have you ever had to postpone an interview because of your mood, mental health, or tiredness? Are there any interviews that you think you should have postponed? 1:53:34 – Christoph: What do you like best about how Tim Ferriss approaches podcasting? What do you like least? 1:56:12 – Linda: Does the finished podcast that we hear follow the actual order/flow of the interview in real life? 1:58:32 – Hunter: Do people recognize you at the crags? Do you find that you have to keep up a different persona/image while at the crags? 2:01:28 – Hunter: How do you view your progression in podcasting? And what do you think it takes for you to get to the next level (whatever that means to you!)? 2:03:30 – Wrap up | |||
| 29 Jan 2022 | Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser) | 00:26:50 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyler Nelson. We talked about a recent study Tyler did with 23 different climbers to measure their finger tendon and bone lengths, and their ability to generate force on different edge sizes. We covered Tyler’s latest recommendations for max strength finger training, how to get stronger on small holds, and when and how to use hangboard repeaters. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:16:59. Tyler’s Original Episode: | |||
| 18 Jul 2022 | EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance | 02:44:59 | |
Jesse Firestone is an elite boulderer, a climbing coach, and a climbing philosopher. He’s also a good friend of mine from Oregon. We talked about quantum leaps in our progression as climbers, Jesse’s top 3 tips for climbers at different stages, non-physical factors that affect our performance, tips for flashing hard boulders, training changes after age 30, and much more. *If you liked my episodes with Emil Abrahamsson and Martin Keller, don’t skip this one! Check out Petzl! Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! Check out Feals! Use this link to get 50% off your first order and free shipping! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestone Nuggets: 0:06:17 – Breakfast, considerations when building a home wall, and how to make climbing holds out of plywood 0:12:24 – Skin conditioning, and dishwashing gloves 0:15:19 – Applying too much stuff to our skin 0:16:56 – Climbing volume, and trying to add more things to make our injuries better 0:18:39 – Being obsessive 0:21:15 – Jesse’s first rest day 0:23:31 – Jesse’s early mentors in climbing, and taking opportunities when they come 0:25:28 – Identifying as a boulderer early on, and wishing he had rested more 0:27:53 – The Portland phase, and how to get pure raw strength in the climbing gym 0:31:27 – Dropping out of college to hit the road for 7 months, and why Jesse’s climbing ability skyrocketed 0:33:08 – The Bend phase 0:35:41 – How Jesse got into coaching 0:38:02 – Emotional regulation, mindset, and common mistakes 0:41:01 – An introduction to Jesse’s Performance Pyramid 0:43:30 – The tiers of the Performance Pyramid 0:47:52 – Jesse’s consistency, and which elements of the pyramid climbers are most resistant to 0:50:11 – Changing our circumstances, and thinking of our lifestyles as an investment 0:52:25 – Quantum leaps 0:54:07 – Spray walls, and the distractions of the climbing gym 0:56:24 – Jesse’s spray wall soapbox 0:58:01 – Emotional regulation strategies (breathing and mantras) 1:03:20 – Emotional regulation strategies (easy climbing with no agenda, and learning to climb alone) 1:04:57 – Beta selection, and the language we speak on the wall 1:07:39 – Pivoting of the torso 1:11:09 – Tough Strips 1:13:31 – MacGyvering solutions, and thinking outside the box 1:17:30 – Beating your head against bad beta, and the importance of finishing climbs 1:21:13 – “We’re all going to hit a point where we’re not climbing harder anymore.” 1:25:53 – 3 tips for beginners 1:32:54 – 3 tips for outdoor-focused climbers 1:37:02 – Summary of 3 tips lists 1:37:43 – Practicing technique on rock 1:38:35 – Flashing boulders, flash ethics, and tips that helped Jesse flash his first V10 1:49:43 – Two hard highball first ascents that Jesse climbed in 2021 (see show notes for videos) 2:00:58 – Why Jesse named one of his highballs Imposter Syndrome 2:03:24 – Being proud of the two highball FAs, and Jesse’s thoughts on repeating established highballs 2:04:36 – Exploring the feeling of being afraid, and exposure therapy 2:05:44 – Patron question from Xander: Have you had to make changes to your training after turning 30? 2:09:54 – Thinking in campaigns/seasons 2:13:31 – Fear, uncertainty, and doubt (FUD) 2:14:37 – Doing more training after 30 2:15:57 – Patron question from Joe: At what level of strength do we experience diminishing returns, and is it worth training the hinge if you can maintain that level without training it directly? (Ex. double bodyweight deadlift) 2:18:25 – Patron question from Joe: What is one piece of advice Jesse wishes he had taken earlier? (mastery, and being a barbarian) 2:20:44 – Patron question from Christopher: How do you handle it mentally if you start regressing on a project? (setting early goals for a session) 2:22:33 – Going into projects with inertia, and knowing when to walk away 2:25:03 – Why Jesse is moving to Leavenworth 2:26:37 – Using a yoga block to train for narrow compression moves on a V12 2:29:47 – Jesse’s thoughts on what it would take for him to climb V14 2:35:47 – Why Jesse and I are thankful for one another, and finding a climbing partner who will cut through your bullshit | |||
| 21 Sep 2020 | EP 36: Climb Strong Team — 2020 Training Camp Mashup | 02:04:24 | |
This is a mashup episode from the 2020 Climb Strong Training Camp. We talked about hangboard training, strength as a skill, climbing performance, takeaways from the training camp, and lessons learned from coaching athletes. Featuring: Chrissy Vadovszki, Jonathan Siegrist, Ken Klein, Carly Cain, Alex Bridgewater, Kathryn Perkinson, Charlie Manganiello, and Amanda Sempert. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/climb-strong-team Nuggets: [Chrissy Vadovszki] 1:37 – Introduction 1:50 – Getting the team together and refreshing principles 3:32 – Strength is safety, “the strongest person isn’t the best climber”, and prioritizing sending 6:17 – Reflecting on the redpoint process, lessons from listening to Jonathan, and the vulnerability of second-tier projects 8:41 – Definition of Second Tier routes 9:21 – Paired exercises, and stoking the fire 10:27 – Chrissy’s take on the value for participants [Jonathan Siegrist] 12:13 – Introduction 12:35 – Jonathan’s mountain biking crash, shoulder injury, and recovery 19:04 – The goal is to clip chains, losing the plot, and getting to 100% try hard 22:35 – Stacking the odds in his favor, some of Jonathan’s strategies for success, and removing pressure 24:31 – Jonathan’s takeaways from the weekend [Ken Klein] 26:12 – Introduction 27:06 – Coffee for breakfast 29:09 – “Climbing is magic.” 30:57 – Why Ken thinks the word “impossible” gets used too much in climbing 33:07 – We all experience the same feeling, and the satisfaction of seeing people try hard 34:13 – Ken’s ‘perfect repeat’ drill he uses with newer climbers, and balancing repetition with trying harder moves 38:09 – The One-Touch drill 40:17 – Jonathan’s three-month breakdown 41:52 – Rock sense, and a reminder to do more rock climbing 44:16 – Hangboarding, 7:3, 7:13, and 6:10 repeaters, and max hangs 48:27 – Hold size and crimping on the hangboard 51:40 – Decreasing edge size vs. adding load 52:05 – Strength repeaters vs. max hangs, and the four-burner stove 54:59 – How Ken thinks about different fingerboard protocols depending on the climber and their goals 56:53 – “Three steps forward one step back.” 1:02:59 – Clarification about progressing hangboard sessions 1:04:28 – Owning the weight [Carly Cain] 1:05:54 – Introduction 1:06:06 – Working with a 16-year-old girl at the training camp 1:08:31 – Getting more comfortable with failing 1:10:44 – Reframing 1:12:08 – Learning to love bouldering 1:13:05 – Life is a work in progress 1:14:38 – Rifle! [Alex Bridgewater] 1:15:58 – Introduction 1:16:12 – One thing that holds us back, the importance of taking the steps, and pushing ourselves 1:18:47 – Social media, “can’t”, and confidence 1:19:48 – Carlo Traversi’s insight 1:20:47 – Positivity 1:22:14 – “Just go up there and try”, a becoming a better person 1:23:59 – “To the death.” 1:25:20 – Showing emotion, “Leave it up there”, and try hard [Kathryn Perkinson] 1:27:37 – Introduction 1:27:47 – Coffee for breakfast (again), fresh-baked bread, and breakfast moves 1:28:40 – Moving to Lander, working with Steve as an athlete, and joining the coaching team 1:30:06 – Philosophy 1:30:43 – Participating in the training camp 1:32:02 – Managing a finger injury as a coach 1:33:02 – A helpful reminder 1:34:08 – “We are all far more capable and more powerful than we can imagine.” 1:35:35 – “Climb second-tier routes.” [Charlie Manganiello] 1:36:43 – Introduction 1:37:03 – “Climbing is really important to people.” 1:38:29 – Keeping climbing in perspective, but not letting go of it completely 1:42:03 – Self-talk, lessons from golf, and putting our negativity away 1:45:08 – “This is where I’m at.” [Amanda Sempert] 1:48:07 – Introduction 1:48:39 – Kettlebell press, tension techniques, and energy links 1:51:08 – Hardstyle plank 1:53:47 – Kettlebell press cues 1:56:23 – The zipup drill, and practicing tension 1:59:00 – The ‘Quicken The Dead’ program, and trying alactic training [Outro] 2:01:37 – Gratitude, and how to support the podcast | |||
| 25 Mar 2024 | EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury | 02:07:39 | |
Davis Ngo (dr.climb) is a climber, Doctor of Physical Therapy, and Instagram personality. We talked about his upbringing as a first-generation Vietnamese American, blowing up on Instagram, why Sean Bailey deserves to make a living from climbing, breaking his back while highballing, overcoming fear after his injury, his dream of creating a bouldering competition in Bishop CA, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! Watch the Video Interview: EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Uncut Video! Check out KAYA! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp! Use this link for 10% off your first month! Check out Tindeq! Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/davis-ngo Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:40) – Photo collages (00:03:36) – Bishop (00:06:21) – My introduction to dr.climb (00:07:52) – Growing up (00:12:11) – Getting into climbing (00:14:01) – Becoming a Physical Therapist (00:16:47) – Graduating during covid (00:18:48) – Blowing up on Instagram (00:22:24) – 69k (00:23:51) – Playing the game (00:32:09) – Who deserves to get paid in climbing? (00:44:42) – The progression of climbing (00:49:11) – Davis’ career (00:51:49) – Overwhelmed (00:54:15) – Self-esteem and social media (01:03:04) – Doing what you love (01:06:15) – Inclusion and giving back (01:09:26) – ‘Haroun’ as his first V11 (01:12:41) – A year of injuries (01:18:01) – What changed after his back injury (01:23:49) – Backing off sketchy topouts (01:26:34) – “I just f*cking love it.” (01:35:25) – Overcoming fear after his back injury (01:41:54) – Trying highballs again (01:46:13) – Internet break (01:47:34) – SAMI sponsorship (01:52:03) – Creating a bouldering competition in Bishop (01:58:49) – How to support Davis (02:01:47) – Name suggestions (02:02:55) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons! | |||
| 14 Feb 2022 | EP 106: Hans Florine — Speed Climbing on ‘The Nose’, Big Wall Tips, and the Evolution of Speed Climbing Competitions | 02:38:27 | |
Hans Florine has held the speed record on ‘The Nose’ on El Capitan 8 separate times. He has climbed the route 112 times, with 100+ people. He loves ‘The Nose’ so much, he wrote a book about it. We talked about winning the first International Speed Climbing Championships in 1991, his earliest ascents of El Cap, top 3 big wall efficiency tips, and the value of doing hard things. Check out PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/hans-florine Nuggets: 0:05:29 – Why Hans uses “exacting time” to schedule things, and respecting other people’s time 0:11:24 – Being a chameleon when traveling 0:12:52 – 182 laps up El Cap, and 112 ascents on ‘The Nose’ 0:14:37 – Hans’ first speed climbing World Cups, and the first climbing World Championship in Frankfurt, Germany in 1991 0:24:34 – How European culture shaped Hans’ perception, and receiving international recognition for holding the speed record on ‘The Nose’ 0:27:55 – Patron question from Ana: What are Hans’ thoughts on the evolution of speed climbing competitions, and different formats? 0:34:37 – Hans’ first trip up El Cap via the Salathe in 1986 0:41:09 – His first failed attempt on ‘The Nose’, and going for the speed record with Steve “Shipoopoi” Schneider 0:48:15 – Hans’ favorite Peter Croft story 0:50:37 – A question from Craig DeMartino, and what it is about ‘The Nose’ that captivates Hans 0:54:02 – Some failure stories on ‘The Nose’ 0:57:57 – How the Stove Legs got their name, and the haul cart with wheels 1:02:05 – Wrapping up the story of the first speed record with Steve Schneider 1:06:40 – Developing an obsession with the speed record on ‘The Nose’ 1:12:16 – Biggest logistical and tactical improvements in speed climbing ‘The Nose’ 1:19:04 – Writing the book on speed climbing, and going for the speed record with Alex Honnold 1:25:51 – Patron question from Christoph: Top 3 tricks for being efficient on a big wall route? 1:34:09 – The Tom Frost story, and how much water to bring on a big wall 1:37:12 – Hans’ perspective on the current record on ‘The Nose’ 1:45:53 – How fast can The Nose be climbed? 1:48:03 – Will Hans try for the speed record again? 1:48:40 – Patron question from Henry: Has Hans’ attitude toward speed climbing changed after his accident? Does speed climbing become less sensible as one gets older? 1:56:25 – A question from Hazel Findlay, and the award Hans would give her 1:58:04 – Hans thoughts on free climbing El Cap, and an argument for climbing ‘The Nose’ “as free as can be” 2:04:49 – Hans’ time focused on onsighting in the 80s and 90s 2:08:55 – 8a.nu and plans for his time in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky 2:11:15 – Takeaways from climbing ‘The Nose’ with more than 100 different people 2:13:22 – Who has affected Hans most in his climbing 2:16:27 – A message from Craig DeMartino 2:17:50 – Patron question from Craig: Who is your greatest non-climbing influence and why? 2:19:31 – Ryan Reynolds 2:20:14 – Doing hard things, and the DHT Challenge 2:22:41 – Applying manufacturing experiences to climbing 2:24:34 – How Hans is making a living now with construction 2:26:31 – How to connect with Hans, and more about the DHT Challenge 2:31:17 – What Hans is excited about right now 2:32:20 – What is next for Hans Florine | |||
| 19 Jan 2023 | Follow-Up: Jordan Cannon — Sending ‘Wet Lycra Nightmare’ on the Leaning Tower (Teaser) | 00:44:05 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Jordan Cannon tunes in from Alex Honnold’s podcasting closet to chat about playing hockey in Las Vegas, how he is rethinking his training for 2023, and his recent send of ‘ Wet Lycra Nightmare’ (5.13d, 9 pitches) on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. We hope you enjoy this geek-out! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:03:36. *Watch the uncut video interview here! Jordan’s Original Episode: EP 115: Jordan Cannon (April 18, 2022) | |||
| 24 May 2021 | EP 70: Steve Maisch — How to Structure a Bouldering Trip, the 85% Rule, and Hueco Debrief | 02:28:56 | |
Steve Maisch is a training legend and has been pursuing improvement in rock climbing for more than two decades. Jon Glassberg credits Steve’s training methodology for his recent send of ‘The Nest’ V15. We talked about Steve’s background in climbing and how he became interested in training, how he helped me add structure to my Hueco bouldering trip, and the 85% rule. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-maisch Nuggets: 5:10 – Ballet class 6:20 – Steve’s beginnings in climbing, grad school, training breakthroughs, and first bad finger injury 13:00 – Becoming interested in quantifying training, and observing the elites 16:50 – How Steve and I connected, the Hueco training plan idea, and addressing individual needs in training 23:38 – Climbing strength 26:33 – Underperforming vs overperforming your finger strength 28:53 – The bouldering pyramid 31:40 – The 85% rule, and the strength sweet spot 46:45 – Train your weaknesses and perform in your strengths, and battling Free Willy 51:50 – Breakdown of the Hueco training plan, and antagonist training 59:46 – Scapular lock-offs 1:05:06 – How much we should be climbing, and making sense of different climbing schedules 1:11:25 – Climb more days, or higher intensity? 1:17:38 – Reconciling Daniel on Return of the Sleepwalker 1:20:48 – Efficiency and muscle memory 1:22:18 – The deload week, and getting stronger when we rest 1:26:18 – The key elements of the boulder pyramid 1:29:16 – How to build up the pyramid season after season 1:31:43 – How to maintain bouldering power during a sport climbing phase 1:34:20 – Whether to maintain endurance during a boulder phase 1:38:26 – Gaining endurance through increasing strength 1:40:06 – The plus/minus (+/-) system 1:49:10 – Training on the boards, and designing different workouts 2:00:16 – Balancing training and performing 2:06:51 – The Remond food bank 2:13:14 – Injuries, Steve’s climbing goals, and rebuilding his pyramid 2:19:55 – Preventing injuries, a foundation of lifting, and the benefit of building muscle in the right places 2:26:10 – Gratitude | |||
| 06 May 2024 | EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist) | 02:00:23 | |
Dr. David Spiegel is a Stanford psychiatrist and one of the world’s most respected experts in the field of hypnosis. We talked about how our minds can make our bodies feel better, how hypnosis has helped his clients, why hypnosis is a good fit for climbers, breathing exercises for relaxation or focus, his new Reveri App, and much more. Dr. Spiegel does a self-hypnosis session with Steven to relieve stress and anxiety and you can follow along! Check out Reveri: reverihealth.app.link/nuggetclimbing 👆 Use my special link to get 2 free weeks!
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Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/david-spiegel
Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:46) – Dr. Spiegel’s background (00:08:51) – My experience with Reveri (00:10:45) – Trying out being different (00:14:47) – Compassion for your body (00:16:35) – The stage hypnosis hustle (00:18:58) – Hypnotizability (00:23:51) – Cognitive flexibility (00:25:36) – The long-term effects of self-hypnosis (00:30:21) – Hypnosis is gaining control (00:36:31) – Is hypnotizability learnable? (00:45:20) – Climbing styles and hypnotizability (00:46:48) – Hypnotizability Test (00:57:55) – Discussing my results (01:00:10) – Anxiety (01:01:48) – Novelty, memory, and visualization (01:07:30) – More about hypnotizability (01:13:52) – Hypnosis as a tool (01:17:03) – Relieve Stress Hypnosis Session (01:31:49) – Debrief of our session (01:34:25) – Explaining the ritual (01:38:45) – The Reveri App (01:42:15) – How climbers should use the app (01:47:14) – Breathing exercises (01:54:19) – Putting it all together (01:56:31) – Final thoughts | |||
| 10 Oct 2022 | EP 139: Lynn Hill — Breaking Barriers in Climbing, How to Find Self-Belief, and Challenging Social Norms | 03:15:53 | |
Lynn Hill is a living legend. She is best known for being the first person to free El Capitan via The Nose in 1993. We talked about what it is like to be Lynn Hill in the modern climbing world, her upbringing, what sets her apart, the story of freeing The Nose, tips for shorter climbers, her mindset and affirmations, self-belief, how she makes a living these days, upcoming video projects, and much more. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Frictitious Climbing! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order! Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be Check out Chalk Cartel! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lynn-hill Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:06:27) – Lynn’s technique video (00:12:58) – How Lynn thinks about climbing technique (00:16:47) – The documentary Lynn is working on, and Lynn’s thoughts on Free Solo (00:18:53) – Having the vision to free climb The Nose (00:21:01) – What it feels like to be Lynn Hill, and why she likes her gates facing out (00:28:07) – Being famous before the internet (00:29:48) – Harrison Ford, and how to act toward famous people (00:33:33) – Being the first woman to climb 12d (7c), traveling to Europe in 1986, and learning French (00:38:01) – Finishing college, getting “kidnapped by climbing”, and her first sponsorship (00:42:33) – Being connected to the people who are pushing the sport forward, and Lynn's project with Sasha DiGiulian (00:50:24) – Who excites Lynn the most in climbing right now (00:56:22) – Why Lynn decided to try to free The Nose (01:00:33) – The reality of aging, and appreciating the journey (01:06:11) – Why The Nose was such a special experience (01:08:53) – Lynn’s visualization process, climbing her first 5.14 in France, and yawning before redpoint attempts (01:11:14) – Breathing and screaming (01:14:12) – Lynn’s process of freeing The Nose (01:23:41) – Projecting the Changing Corners pitch (01:28:11) – Going for it, and Brooke Sandahl’s role in The Nose going free (01:32:07) – Why Lynn decided to free The Nose in a day, and how she trained for it (01:35:56) – Her mindset for efficiency on The Nose, and sending during the full moon (01:40:01) – “It’s actually pretty strenuous…” and the Lynn Hill traverse (01:41:59) – Lynn’s height and ape index (5’1 1/4”, 0 ape index) (01:43:29) – Advice for shorter climbers (01:45:53) – First Ascent (Naked Edge film by Bob Carmichael), and the training Lynn was doing in the early 80s (01:53:14) – Lynn’s family upbringing, her temperament, and what sets her apart (01:55:58) – The “what if” game, and taking an unconventional path (01:59:07) – Lynn’s current sponsorships, and how she makes a living these days (02:03:09) – There are a lot of ways to make it as a pro climber (02:07:56) – Patron Question from Nick: What parts of climbing culture would you like to see maintained? What would you be happy to see disappear? (02:13:33) – Patron Question from Bradley: What do Lynn’s passions look like today? (02:15:23) – Patron Question from Jessica: Onsighting the FA of Mingus in 1994 in the Verdon (02:21:59) – Patron Question from Matt: What was it like climbing on The Nose with Nina Caprez? Are you mentoring any other women? (02:29:07) – Building ab strength after having a baby, and Lynn’s replica of the Changing Corners intro move (02:32:20) – Other women Lynn has mentored (02:33:51) – Patron Question from Craig: Who have you climbed with that had amazing footwork? (02:36:12) – Patron Question from Christoph: Can Lynn speak about the mental side of pushing boundaries? (02:41:32) – Patron Question from Emily: How did Lynn learn to be independent from the limiting gendered cues coming from society at the time in order to realize her true potential? (02:44:33) – Lynn’s positive affirmations, challenging societal norms as a teenager, and seeing injustice in the world (02:51:12) – Patron Question from Mark: Have women reached parody in climbing? If not, what can be done? (02:58:45) – What Lynn is most excited about right now, her Italian name, and the value of learning other languages (03:02:26) – Feeling excited about her new route on The Maiden, and ideas for her next trip to France (03:05:32) – More about the documentary Lynn is working on (03:09:04) – Where to buy “It goes boys” shirts, and signed photos from Lynn! (03:11:01) – Lynn’s plans for Hueco | |||
| 06 Apr 2020 | EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely | 01:39:24 | |
Mike Doyle is an elite-level rock climber who balances climbing with a career as a software engineer. He also has a long history of competition climbing and coaching. We talked about lessons learned from 10+ years of coaching, his training philosophy, onsighting tips, go-to climbing shoes, surfing, and the best breakfast he’s ever had. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mike-doyle Nuggets: 2:06 – Mike’s go-to breakfast, and the best breakfast he’s ever had 3:09 – My climbing gym trip 3:25 – Mike’s early climbing and first (and last) experience with mountaineering 5:58 – Moving to Vancouver for college, coaching at the North Vancouver gym, and the stacked field of young climbers that came out of that program 8:29 – The culture that lead The Edge climbing team to be so successful 9:50 – Mike’s competition career and why he transitioned away from competitions 11:16 – Mike’s evolution as a coach, early coaching mistakes, the importance of building relationships with the kids on the team, and finding individual triggers 17:55 – Enjoying coaching, fear of falling, the story behind ‘Spank the Monkey’, and setting up a top rope on ‘Rude Boys’ 21:58 – Flexibility training, and why Mike wouldn’t pay himself to be his own coach 23:25 – The best piece of coaching advice Mike ever got, and the importance of making the training environment fun 25:45 – More time in the gym, and “That’s when you learn technique is when you’re tired.” 26:49 – “Strength training is simple.” 28:13 – How Mike thinks about block training vs. integrating training with climbing 31:14 – Some of the nuts and bolts of Mike’s hangboard training—specifically how he prepared for ‘Necessary Evil’ (reference the TrainingBeta podcast episode linked above for the exact workout he was doing) 32:29 – Mike’s struggle with one-arm hangs 34:46 – Doing a single 10-second full crimp hang for recruitment 37:30 – Mike’s lineup of holds and the importance of sticking to a program 38:09 – Why strength = endurance, and training yourself to recruit less (i.e. relax your grip) on a hangboard 40:09 – Climbing tired to improve efficiency/movement economy 40:50 – Mike’s thoughts on the Moonboard, and “Every tool has its applications.” 42:00 – Nagging injuries and thoughts on climbing hard in the future and what that means 43:06 – Mike’s ‘Remote Controlled Climbing Life’, dreams of traveling and climbing, and the story behind ADATO 46:43 – Why Mike still works 60+ hours per week 49:32 – Creating boundaries around work, “ride or die”, and the balance that Mike hopes to achieve with his current company and work life 52:28 – Working “extra remotely”, two-month trips, and needing a change of scenery 54:54 – A few things Mike looks for in a potential “extra remote” work space 55:32 – Mike’s keyboard and mouse recommendations (Kinesis–link in show notes) 57:06 – The Canadian Alpine Trilogy 1:06:32 – “It’s the Rockies.” 1:07:33 – Mixing in other climbing with the trilogy and plans to go back this summer 1:08:40 – Necessary Evil and necessary diligence 1:11:47 – Climbing as an escape vs. having a focusing project, takeaways from projecting Necessary Evil, and support from the climbing community 1:15:15 – Why Mike’s process on Necessary Evil resonated with so many people 1:16:04 – Mike’s (lack) of unfinished business, ‘Just Do It’, and how he goes about onsighting and redpointing on road trips 1:18:54 – Onsighting tips 1:20:38 – Why Mike love the La Sportiva Genius and why it has become his go-to onsight shoe 1:23:50 – Mike’s favorite stiff shoe for face climbing and the shoes he wore on To Bolt 1:25:01 – The advice Mike would give himself at age 18, climbing standards when Mike climbed his first 14a vs now, Adam Ondra’s onsight attempt on Necessary Evil, and why I think ‘Just Do It’ is in the bag for Mike ;) 1:29:51 – Surfing and Mike’s recent trip to Costa Rica 1:33:30 – What’s next for Mike, his elbow injury, running for fitness, and the one thing about running that translates most to climbing 1:35:34 – Upcoming trips 1:36:31 – Woodford story | |||
| 07 Mar 2022 | EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder | 02:46:30 | |
Martin Keller is a Swiss boulderer, climbing coach, and teacher, and is known for his long-term dedication to his bouldering projects. We talked about spending 150+ days projecting his FA of ‘Ninja Skills Sit’ V15/16, how to change our brain chemistry, how Martin trains on his outdoor projects, and how changing his mindset unlocked his hardest climbs. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens! Use the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/martin-keller Nuggets: 0:08:13 – Martin’s “mini-epic” on ‘Ninja Skills Sit’ V15/16 0:14:02 – Finding inspiration in a project 0:17:55 – Martin’s first bouldering trip, and being a slow learner 0:23:28 – Preferring really cool projects to just sending another random climb, and asking what people like most about climbing 0:25:34 – Being able to jump up a grade when you find something that fits you 0:28:13 – Turning something ugly into something gracefully, and turning the impossible into something possible 0:35:03 – Do whatever resonates with you, and climbing lots of new things on trips 0:38:13 – Why willpower isn’t enough, and making your brain like what you do 0:41:28 – Your brain wants you to do easy things, and how to trick your unconscious into wanting to train 0:46:00 – How to get rid of cognitive friction, and tricks to make your brain want to go training 0:51:39 – How to use breathwork to ramp up the nervous system for training 0:54:20 – Long term vs short term stress 0:58:16 – Using light to upregulate the nervous system, and dimming lights before sleep 1:02:23 – How body temperature affects sleep, and avoiding screen time in the evening 1:03:59 – Food before bed, and including carbs with dinner to help with sleep 1:06:15 – What Martin does on his project when the conditions are bad, how he “trains” on his projects, and setting mini-goals 1:16:40 – The Russian mindset, why more isn’t always better, and the difference between us and the pros 1:20:52 – Why active rest days are important, why you should get a dog, and why doing good things for your climbing is also good for your life 1:26:13 – Opportunity costs, choosing priorities, and being flexible with your training 1:29:04 – Martin’s strategy for hard power endurance boulders, and bringing the sections of the boulder down to 80% effort (or 8 RPE) 1:36:13 – Martin’s latest project on the Highlander boulder 1:37:41 – Key Takeaway: Ask yourself what you really like about climbing and bouldering, and being proud of yourself for building a life around climbing 1:39:48 – Letting out the steam 1:42:32 – Why collecting excuses (explanations) can be helpful 1:45:13 – Martin’s story about berating himself on Ninja Skills Sit, and learning how to speak more kindly to yourself 1:51:13 – The example of spilling water on your laptop, and talking to yourself like you would talk to a friend 1:55:43 – Martin’s hamstring injury, sunk costs, and how irrational our brains actually are 2:02:01 – Figuring out what is important for yourself, and magic bullets 2:05:43 – Being the first one to bring a battery-powered van to the boulders 2:07:23 – How changing his mindset has helped Martin climb all of his hardest boulders after age 40 2:13:13 – The benefits of cold showers, and connecting dopamine to actions 2:20:16 – Patron question from Nicole: How does Martin deal with making negative progress on projects? When does he walk away? 2:36:05 – The pressure we create for ourselves 2:41:07 – How to connect with Martin 2:43:18 – Final words | |||
| 03 May 2021 | EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading | 02:02:27 | |
Heth Jennings is a Physical Therapist and Functional Medicine Practitioner who has been studying pain for over 20+ years. We talked about where pain comes from, how the brain uses pain to protect us, why chronic pain isn’t “just in our head”, how to rehab finger and elbow injuries, and other lifestyle interventions that help with recovery. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/heth-jennings Nuggets: 4:10 – Heth’s background in physical therapy, functional medicine, and pain science 6:55 – A new paradigm for understanding pain 8:22 – “It’s all in my head.” and “It’s always real.” 9:40 – Lorimer Moseley, and the hammer in the neck story 14:50 – Red light blue light 15:55 – The leg scratch 17:40 – Chronic vs acute pain 21:09 – The mountain illustration of tissue capacity, the pain buffer, and how the brain’s overprotection leads to chronic pain 24:19 – Rehabbing chronic elbow pain 28:25 – Graded motor imagery using the Recognize App, visualization, and mirror therapy 36:35 – “The point is always to get people back to moving.” 37:58 – Heth’s example of the brain loving us too much, and removing fear 41:00 – The role of inflammation, assessing tissue damage, and rehabbing fingers and elbows 47:28 – Heth’s recent finger injury, and how he rehabbed it 50:35 – “Don’t flare up, but when you do, don’t freak out about it.” 51:48 – What to do after a flare-up 53:31 – Heth’s protocol for rehabbing his finger injury 56:02 – The theory behind eccentrics for tendon injury rehab 57:04 – How do address different types of finger injuries 59:27 – Heth’s thoughts on climbing open-handed while recovering from a pulley injury 1:01:03 – Mirror therapy for amputees 1:02:50 – Elbow rehab 1:07:52 – Preventing recurring injuries, giving our bodies credit, and bioplasticity 1:15:32 – What Heth has learned from his injuries, how he plans to move forward, and collagen + vitamin C 1:19:50 – Heth’s thoughts on supplemental exercises for injury prevention 1:23:57 – Heth’s thoughts on including finger ups or other isotonic exercises 1:25:32 – Chronic inflammation, gut health, and stress 1:28:35 – Why Heth recommends a low carb diet for many of his clients 1:32:33 – Heth’s thoughts on carbs for metabolically healthy people and athletes 1:38:37 – Carb backloading 1:44:39 – Heth’s thoughts on counting macros and daily protein 1:47:56 – Krispy Cream doughnuts, birthday cake, and popcorn and coke 1:50:28 – Breathing and meditation, accepting where we are, and being kind to ourselves 1:57:00 – Heth’s website, and social media 2:00:26 – Gratitude | |||
| 27 Mar 2023 | EP 162: Fundamentals — How to Structure Your Climbing Year | 01:02:28 | |
Fundamentals (Part 6 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I dive into how to structure your climbing year. We talk about the circumstances that led to some of our best years in climbing, the importance of having a plan and taking notes, why focus tends to produce excellence, how to build from one phase to the next, and making sure your training supports your climbing. Happy planning! Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode: Tom Randall's Follow-Up:
The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp! Use this link for 10% off your first month! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out LMNT! Use this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-6 Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:55) – Sending my first three V11s in 2021, why 2022 was less successful than 2021, and "focus tends to produce excellence" (00:09:56) – Why 2022 was a great year for Jesse, and flashing Free Willie V10 in Hueco Tanks (00:11:56) – Jesse’s new philosophy, and realization that he will never try everything on his list (00:13:37) – Steven’s Tip #1: Write out a rough plan for your year (00:16:31) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Map out the major phases for your year (00:17:16) – Steven’s Tip #2: Reflect and take notes on your previous year (00:20:01) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Keep a daily journal (00:21:17) – Bonus Tip: Celebrate your successes, and write down your top 10 climbing experiences at the end of each year (00:22:14) – What Jesse includes in his daily journal, and reviewing once a season (00:24:21) – My preferred journaling method, and the +/- system (00:26:43) – Jesse’s Google Keep beta (00:28:05) – Steven’s Tip #3: Give yourself time to transition between disciplines (00:34:36) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Write down three things that you want to work on to be prepared for each phase (00:40:05) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Your training should support your climbing (put the climbing first) (00:43:27) – Steven’s Tip #4: If you want to hit a peak performance, set aside three months to build toward that goal (00:44:34) – Steven’s Tip #5: Listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall on how to program your training (00:45:23) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Just winging it (00:45:43) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not having a plan (00:47:21) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not rolling with the punches (00:48:28) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not taking notes (or not summarizing your notes in a way that is actually useful) (00:49:22) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not taking a rest phase (00:52:14) – Bonus Tip: If you want to keep a session short, make a plan for right after the session (00:53:55) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Bouncing around too often with disciplines, styles, rock types, etc. (00:55:24) – Jesse’s Pitfall #4: Putting all of your time, and energy, and using all of the good conditions for one limit thing (throw yourself a bone every once in a while!) (00:57:12) – The progression zone (00:58:04) – Steven’s Top Tip: Make a plan and take notes, and listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall (00:58:47) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Focus on the stuff that matters: no more than three (00:59:22) – Jesse’s two goals for 2022 (01:00:13) – Let us know if you want a season 2! | |||
| 27 May 2021 | Follow-Up: Alex Johnson — Sending The Mother F***ing Swarm (Teaser) | 00:23:56 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Alex Johnson. We talked about sending ‘The Swarm’ V13/14, her 10+ year project in Bishop, CA. We also talked about how she prepared for the trip, how she and Bree balanced their climbing objectives in Bishop, taking time off, how to ramp back up after hitting a peak performance, planting a garden, and becoming domesticated. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 43:03. | |||
| 03 May 2024 | EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training | 01:02:42 | |
This is a full bonus episode for Patrons! Maddy and I catch up about our weekend sends, Maddy shares a few key nuggets from our main episode, and then gives us a 2-hour masterclass in endurance training! Listen to the end for three free endurance protocols from Lattice's new online course that you can use in your training. *Use the timestamps below if you want to skip to the masterclass. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 2:54:13. Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Our weekends (00:07:30) – Key takeaways from our main episode (00:40:45) – A masterclass in endurance training | |||
| 08 Jan 2024 | EP 200: Brooke Raboutou — An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends | 01:54:14 | |
Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for competitions, why she meditates every day, her favorite hype music, working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, focusing on the bigger picture, competing to win while supporting friends and teammates, how she balances competitions with sending hard boulders, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! REGISTER NOW for the PCC! www.performanceclimbingcoach.com Use code "NUGGET" for 10% off Early Bird pricing until Jan 28th! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp! Use this link for 10% off your first month!Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brooke-raboutou Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:35) – The first podcast in my cabin, and Brooke’s two-a-day training (00:04:03) – Why college felt so important, and balancing climbing with other interests (00:07:45) – Studying marketing and psychology (00:10:38) – Climbing as a lifetime sport, and pivoting within climbing (00:14:05) – Brooke’s family and upbringing, and balancing college with Olympic training (00:21:34) – Her parents starting ABC climbing, and what it was like having her mom as a coach (00:24:42) – What felt better: winning her first World Cup gold medal, or sending Box Therapy? (00:27:55) – Training for the Olympics, and her hype music for speed climbing (00:32:20) – Brooke’s favorite music (00:37:20) – Wanting to win while supporting your friends and teammates (00:44:17) – The mechanics of qualifying for the Olympics, and Brooke’s mindset for Paris (00:50:09) – How much longer will Brooke focus on competitions? (00:51:20) – Working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, and focusing on the big picture (00:57:11) – The purpose we get from having a goal, and Brooke’s goal to mix psychology and climbing (01:01:41) – Brooke’s mindset approaching competitions (01:06:34) – Balancing fun and focus, different competitors' mindsets, and channeling good energy (01:10:15) – Meditation and breath (01:18:10) – Using her flexibility as a shorter climber, and growing up in gymnastics at CATS (01:23:52) – Dancing on the wall for her warmup (01:25:46) – How to use more flexibility in your climbing (01:26:45) – How did Brooke become so strong in 3F drag? (01:31:14) – Short pinkies and crooked fingers (01:31:53) – Working with her coach Chris Danielson (01:39:09) – Does Brooke train specifically for outdoor goals? (01:41:19) – How outdoor climbing feeds back into competitions (01:43:54) – More about Brooke’s training (01:46:06) – Why Brooke switched from one-arm hangs to weighted two-arm hangs, and using the hangboard for injury prevention (01:47:51) – Working on jumps and leg power, coordination, and mental game (01:49:08) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser! | |||
| 18 Apr 2022 | EP 115: Jordan Cannon — The Triple Crown in Yosemite, Big Wall Pooping Stories, and How to Build the Skills to Climb El Capitan | 02:27:00 | |
Jordan Cannon is a professional climber who exploded onto the Yosemite scene in recent years with multiple in-a-day free ascents of El Capitan, and hard big wall linkups. We covered Jordan’s climbing origin story, playing college soccer, seeking adventure in Yosemite, van life tips, big wall pooping stories, free climbing El Cap in a day vs. multiple days, the value of dirtbagging, and much more. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Upcoming ClimbWell Retreat! (June 9-12) Use discount code “NUGGET10” at checkout to save 10% off your ticket! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jordan-cannon Nuggets: 0:06:46 – Peter Croft’s episode, and how Jordan got connected with Peter 0:10:30 – Climbing with your heroes, and getting turned on to sport climbing by Peter 0:12:40 – Jordan’s origin story, and teaching himself how to sport climb in a tree at age 7 0:21:01 – Telling his mom he wanted to become a climber at age 4 0:23:02 – Appreciating climbing more because he found it later in life 0:25:43 – Being burned out on team sports, being let down by teammates, and seeking adventure in rock climbing 0:29:08 – Starting to climb at the James Island County Park Climbing Wall 0:32:01 – Road tripping to CA 0:34:38 – Going to Joshua Tree for the first time 0:38:46 – Jordan’s rock climbing education, and what Jordan and I each studied in college 0:44:35 – Jordan’s path to becoming a professional climber, feeling alone in his passion for trad and adventure climbing, and getting out of San Diego 0:48:07 – What drew Jordan to Yosemite, and seeing Valley Uprising for the first time 0:54:04 – People who made history by not trying to make history 0:57:28 – Being overwhelmed by the amount of things to repeat in climbing, and Jordan’s first experience in Yosemite 1:01:31 – Why you shouldn’t wait until you are “good enough” to go to Yosemite 1:03:35 – Why Yosemite is Jordan’s favorite climbing area, and why he needs breaks from it 1:05:21 – Working seasonally and living the dirtbag life, working odd jobs, and how Jordan structures his year 1:09:26 – Living out of a Honda CRV, living in a cave in Yosemite, and the value of dirtbagging 1:15:26 – Jordan’s top vanlife tips, and pee bottle beta 1:20:52 – Going number two 1:22:30 – Big wall pooping stories, and “shit-putting” 1:30:03 – Free climbing El Cap in a day vs. over multiple days 1:37:36 – Sending the Triple Crown link-up 1:46:56 – The coolest goal Jordan can think of in Yosemite 1:49:21 – How Jordan structures his year now that he is a professional climber 1:54:47 – Jordan’s bouldering and sport climbing goals, and meeting Tom Herbert 1:58:57 – Advice for aspiring big wall or traditional climbers 2:01:01 – Diet, sleep, and having different modes (send, training, rest) 2:05:54 – “Long term consistency trumps short term intensity.” - Bruce Lee 2:07:32 – Taking off-seasons or easy phases 2:13:13 – The Classroom Analogy 2:17:05 – The skills and steps required to climb El Cap 2:20:29 – Wrap up and Jordan’s Yosemite goals for the Spring of 2022 | |||
| 18 Mar 2024 | EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance | 01:37:52 | |
Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional climber and one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world. We talked about racing bikes growing up, discovering climbing, using humor in his YouTube videos, how having fun helps him send, why he loves projecting limit routes, chasing the impossible, trying ‘Silence’ 9c, sending ‘Excalibur’ 9b+, two drills for legendary endurance, supporting his girlfriend Sara through hard times with her health, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! Watch the Video Interview: EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Uncut Video! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app for free! The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp! Use this link for 10% off your first month! Check out Mad Rock! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stefano-ghisolfi Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:28) – Young Stefano (00:08:18) – Humor and fun (00:12:09) – The Dawn of Climbing (00:14:20) – The whole process (00:17:41) – Trying ‘Silence’ 9c (00:20:52) – Chasing the impossible (00:23:33) – Learning new skills on ‘Silence’ (00:25:53) – Comparing ‘Silence’ and ‘Excalibur’ 9b+ (00:28:45) – Limiting factors on ‘Silence’ (00:36:08) – Tips for building legendary endurance (00:44:49) – ‘Excalibur’ and ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A (00:55:35) – Trying ‘Excalibur’ with Adam Ondra and Will Bosi (01:02:14) – The sword earring (01:04:06) – How ‘Excalibur’ got its name (01:09:22) – Trying ‘Hubble’ 8c+/9a (01:11:41) – Engaging with climbing history (01:14:48) – Stefano’s climbing heroes (01:17:51) – ‘Demencia Senil’ 9a+ (01:20:29) – Fortnite and Mario Kart strength (01:22:52) – Sara’s health challenges (01:29:29) – Supporting one another (01:33:28) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons! | |||
| 16 Sep 2024 | EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training | 01:32:28 | |
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4, and the rule of 10. We also discuss why we both lift, why climbers should train differently than weight lifters, programming ideas, common mistakes, and more. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes: thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals The NUG: frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Check out my new portable hangboard. Crimpd: Or download the Crimpd app for free! BetterHelp: Use this link for 10% off your first month. Rhino Skin Solutions: Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-3 Nuggets: (00:00:00) – The NUG (00:01:21) – Why Jesse lifts weights (00:04:43) – Why I lift weights (00:06:19) – The safety of weightlifting (00:07:03) – Low-hanging fruit (00:08:06) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Learn the basics (the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, and a basic understanding of anatomy) (00:12:36) – How I use RPE, & a big mistake I made early on in my lifting (00:13:16) – Other forms of RPE (00:16:11) – A study on reps in reserve (RIR) lifting (00:16:50) – A basic understanding of anatomy (ExRx.net) (00:18:20) – Steven’s Tip #1: Train like an athlete in another sport, not like a weight lifter (00:18:54) – The Big 4 (push, pull, hinge, squat), & an example program (00:21:56) – The 10 Rep Rule (00:25:13) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Learn how to modify your training (00:35:47) – How to progress primary & accessory exercises (00:37:26) – Why you should start with a compound exercise (00:38:25) – Steven’s Tip #2: It’s ok to focus on the bare essentials (00:40:43) – Way too much pulling training (00:41:30) – Step #1 for new lifters (00:44:07) – Drew Ruana bench press example (00:45:42) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Load is more important to pay attention to than form (00:47:30) – Steven’s Tip #3: Get specific strategically, and only after you build a base (00:49:42) – Jesse’s Tip #4: You may need to reduce your climbing volume to adapt to your weight training (00:55:52) – Bonus Tip: Learn about hardstyle training (00:58:27) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Doing either too much or too little (01:01:14) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Going ham (01:01:14) – Bonus Pitfall: Not taking advantage of weight lifting when you’re young (01:07:12) – You don’t have to go to level ten (01:08:17) – Overall training load (01:09:09) – A little bit is still beneficial (01:11:04) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not going heavy enough (01:15:56) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too specific, too special, or too fancy (01:18:42) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not eating enough protein (01:22:32) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not learning how to use autoregulation in some fashion (01:26:02) – Bonus Pitfall: Forcing it (01:27:57) – Nurturing your practice with weight training (01:29:26) – Avoid boot camp training (01:31:46) – Wrap up | |||
| 09 Sep 2024 | EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training | 02:09:57 | |
Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more. Watch the Video Interview of this episode: EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Uncut Video Become a Patron: The NUG: frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Check out my new portable hangboard design. Crimpd: Or download the Crimpd app for free! Rhino Skin Solutions: Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Revival Climbing Coalition: EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival) Chalk Cartel: Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle-returns Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:59) – The 200 lb grip goal (00:07:31) – How Yves makes a training program, the Gap Analysis, & benchmarking (00:11:28) – Limiting factors (00:12:15) – The Sport Audit (00:15:13) – Joint angles for edge lifting (00:19:19) – Specializing (00:20:36) – The challenge for climbers with building finger strength (00:21:18) – More on specialization (00:22:51) – Forearm hypertrophy exercises (00:24:58) – Lifting vs. hanging vs. overcoming isometrics (00:30:33) – Grip positions for different goals (00:36:07) – 20mm vs. 25mm edge training (00:38:29) – How to build a 3-month grip training program (00:45:56) – Yves’ edge lifting protocols (00:53:35) – When to progress weight (00:54:50) – Wellness questionnaire & readiness test (00:56:20) – When to change your training schedule (00:58:23) – When to push out of your comfort zone (i.e. The Shock Week) (01:00:08) – Hypertrophy & long-term finger strength gains (01:04:27) – Lazy athletes get strong (01:05:29) – Repeaters (01:07:44) – Changing your schedule or program (01:10:48) – My takeaways so far (01:12:02) – How to combine board sessions with finger training (01:20:04) – Training for a 23-move boulder (01:22:44) – Pacing & effeciency (01:25:37) – Summary of my example training plan (01:35:12) – More about repeaters (01:40:46) – How to maintain finger strength in season (01:48:05) – Yves’ recent grip comp & climbing goals (01:55:22) – Yves’ gap analysis for comps (01:57:15) – Planning & process goals (01:59:05) – Yves’ job as a special effects artist (02:01:06) – Yves’ YouTube channel (02:01:54) – Climbers getting into grip sports (02:02:47) – Outdoor rock goals & his last Hueco trip (02:05:45) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser for Patrons | |||
| 17 Feb 2020 | EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do | 01:38:21 | |
Mark DeJohn is a licensed massage therapist who specialized in Active Release Technique (ART). I began seeing Mark after suffering from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome for six years. Mark was able to fix me using ART. We talked about the root cause and how overly tight muscles can become an injury, how Mark thinks about overuse injuries and his tips to avoid them, and two stretches every climber should do. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mark-dejohn Nuggets: 2:03 – What is Active Release Technique (ART)? 3:48 – My (Steven’s) Carpal Tunnel Syndrome (CTS) and how and overly tight muscle can become an injury 10:19 – Homework vs. compliance 12:18 – ART as a standalone treatment, and ART paired with Chiropractic treatment 14:59 – The body as a system, and working up and down the chain 17:19 – Other climbing related injuries Mark has treated 18:47 – How climbers should be stretching, and two stretches every climber should do 20:37 – Timing, when to stretch, Mark’s thoughts on isometric vs. dynamic stretches, and how tight muscles can lead to tendonitis 24:13 – Scar tissue and Mark’s “gum in the carpet” theory 25:20 – Mark’s thoughts on tightness vs. strength, and whether “too flexible” is a concern 28:21 – How Mark got started with ART and becoming an ART instructor 32:14 – How Mark got involved with triathlons, being on support teams, and his trip to China 36:50 – Mark’s size (6’3”, 240lbs) and the difficulty of working on NFL players 38:10 – What Mark does for his own treatment, and Mark’s experience trying climbing 39:45 – Mark’s thoughts on going to muscular failure in the forearms every session vs. varied training 43:51 – A case for variability in your workouts and the root cause that lead to me developing CTS 45:49 – The recipe for overuse injuries: Doing too much of the same stuff too often 46:20 – How (bad) posture can lead to injuries and what Mark is working on for himself 48:17 – Working with people from all walks of life and the 90-year-old Canasta player 48:51 – Why Mark loves working with athletes and helping people get back in the game 50:45 – How to find a good ART practitioner 51:54 – Advice I needed to hear, stress vs. eustress, and Mark’s advice to keep getting outside if you’re injured 53:49– My recommended tools for self-care (Armaid, Theracane, Wave Tool) and Mark’s usage tips 56:15 – The Deep Muscle Stimulator and why Mark thinks it would be a good addition to a climbers kit 58:39 – How Mark got into bikes, racing, and why he prefers to get out and enjoy open spaces 1:04:07 – Mark’s plan to grow his business into something he can sell, and the benefits of K laser treatment 1:09:39 – One thing Mark would have done differently if he could go back in time 1:10:18 – Mark’s construction business, how he transitioned to ART, and Mark’s uncle Spencer 1:13:36 – Why Mark has changed his mind about the psychological component of treatment 1:17:05 – The links between brain, gut, body, pain, and everything else 1:17:50 – Diet and genes as potential factors 1:23:38 – Some of the best decisions Mark has ever made, learning new things, and keeping an open mind 1:26:47 – Something Mark is grateful for 1:28:04 – Something Mark is excited about right now 1:30:14 – Mark’s final advice for climbers: be proactive, cross-train (do other stuff), and hydrate like crazy 1:31:43 – Electrolytes 1:33:41 – How Mark’s other athletes use cross-training and options for climbers 1:34:48 – What’s next for Mark 1:36:30 – How to connect with Mark 1:36:53 – The review I left for Mark back in June 2019 | |||
| 02 Mar 2020 | EP 07: Ian Yurdin on Product Creation, Projecting Routes at Smith Rock, and Gratitude for Health | 01:57:51 | |
Ian Yurdin is a Smith Rock local who climbs hard and has had a successful career developing footwear for companies like Adidas, FiveTen, and Solomon. We talked about his career in product creation and his transition to consulting, starting a restaurant with his wife Kristin, his history with ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’, measuring rock temperature to quantify climbing conditions, health issues, and the things he is most grateful for. *NOTE: Ian had actually clipped the 13th bolt on ‘To Bolt’ on his heartbreaking try. (He mistakenly said it was the 12th in the interview.) Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ian-yurdin Nuggets: 1:40 – Barry’s backup beeper 3:55 – Renovating a 100-year-old train depot and moving the building 36 feet 7:10 – What sparked the idea for the Terrebonne Depot, seeing the building, and calling the owner every month for three years 12:17 – Building a place to bring together the community as a passion project vs. smart business move, and the storage shower 17:31 – Kristin sending Vicious Fish while working 60+ hours per week at the restaurant, and Ian’s favorite era at Smith (~2006-2008) 19:39 – Working through the other classic 5.13s and climbing ‘White Wedding’ 23:29 – “The Unfinishables” 25:03 – Herniated discs, colonoscopies, and cancer 28:38 – Ian’s current health, my experience working with Mark DeJohn, being your own health advocate, and Ian’s thoughts about surgery for disc injuries 35:30 – My friend’s experience with back surgery and pain killers 37:36 – Ian’s other life, footwear, and managing a 100-million-dollar business 42:51 – Transitioning into consulting, the difference between working for a brand vs. working for yourself, and the power of the consumer 50:03 – What can we do as consumers, thinking about where things come from, vetting brands, and voting with your dollars 53:42 – Different businesses as different organisms 56:24 – Ian’s history on ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’ 1:13:09 – Passing on beta, being in Nina’s video, and failure yes or no, and the line between unfun and unhealthy 1:18:38 – ‘To Bolt’ as a Ph.D. in face climbing, and the tradeoffs of long-term projecting 1:20:46 – The temperature gun (thermometer), conditions, and noticing trends 1:32:56 – Ian’s warmup routine for ‘To Bolt’, forcing the pressure numb, and practicing falling 1:40:02 – Mixing in other pitches for fitness 1:42:26 – What Ian learned from climbing with Paige Claassen (now Paige de Kock) 1:49:53 – Gratitude for Casbah, health, friends, living in Central Oregon 1:53:41 – Ian’s excitement to be healthy and pain-free, climbing again, mountains, and being a dabbler alpinist 1:55:32 – Ian’s experience and thoughts on Instagram and Facebook | |||
| 19 Apr 2021 | EP 65: Natalie Duran — Ninja Antics, Fear Conditioning, and Living Like a Superhero | 01:26:55 | |
Natalie Duran is a “Proish Climber”, Ninja Warrior finalist, Guinness World Record holder, television host, actor, influencer, and scientist. We talked about her new rollerskates, growing up with the pressure to become a doctor, early YouTube fame, climbing structures, studying neuroscience, brain scans, overcoming fear, motorcycles, and making a TV show. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/natalie-duran Nuggets: 3:16 – “Today is Thursday!” 5:04 – Natalie’s new roller skates 6:46 – Learning in the shadows… 8:10 – Style transitions 9:54 – Who is Ninja Natalie 12:41 – Born to be a doctor, growing up with parental pressure, and discovering YouTube 17:19 – The Cinnamon Challenge, sharing stories, and going viral 21:40 – A day in the life 25:02 – How to stay organized 27:02 – “The theme parks are closed so I made my own.” 29:09 – The police code 31:46 – The swing 33:27 – Natalie’s gym circuit 35:22 – Maintaining ninja abilities, and Ninja Warrior gyms 37:50 – Coaching ninjas 39:07 – Brain scans, fear, and breathing 43:52 – Running across the South African desert, and “Just Keep Swimming” 45:26 – Thinking about emotions analytically, the placebo effect, and mindset 47:47 – Discovering climbing, Natalie’s first car, and early competitions 52:04 – Current climbing, and integrating climbing into daily play 53:27 – Partnership, sneaking into buildings, and climbing cranes 55:22 – Natalie’s goal of producing her own reality TV show 1:00:01 – Stunt motorcycle riding and skydiving 1:01:32 – Keanu Reeves and Jason Momoa 1:03:30 – Motorcycle playlist 1:04:57 – Emotional growth 1:07:31 – Alone time, and gratitude journaling 1:09:45 – Grateful for not having covid, and not being arrested 1:10:41 – Snowboarding 1:12:06 – Mom’s fight with cancer 1:13:53 – Kid’s movies 1:15:13 – Reality TV shows 1:16:30 – Wipeout, and meatballs 1:19:26 – Superhero outfit 1:20:33 – The tucked-in side braid 1:21:23 – Ninja Natalie’s superpower 1:21:59 – Excited to travel again 1:22:43 – Current work on Ninja Warrior obstacles 1:23:45 – Natalie’s Instagram @ninja_natalie and website ninjanatalie.com 1:24:46 – “Live every day like you’re a superhero. You don’t know what you are capable of unless you attempt to push past your limits.” | |||
| 27 Feb 2023 | EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique | 01:07:28 | |
Fundamentals (Part 4 of 6) — In part 4 of this series, Jesse and I discuss our top tips for how to improve your climbing technique, and share common pitfalls that can prevent progress. These are fundamental tips that you can practice at the climbing gym, the boulders, or the crag. We hope this episode helps you more closely examine your movement so you can level up your climbing! Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode:
Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out LMNT! Use this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-4 Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:04:23) – Jesse’s realization about his climbing style, and wanting to climb taller (00:06:23) – My interest in getting better at straight-on roof climbing (00:07:47) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Structure your technical practice (00:10:38) – Skills are specific to the intensity of the movement (00:12:25) – My philosophy for improving technique and how it differs from Jesse’s (00:14:23) – Steven’s Tip #1: Become really interested in becoming a better climber (00:15:35) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Technique starts with creativity (00:16:53) – The lesson Jesse learned from Pangalactic Gargleblaster (00:19:30) – Steven’s Tip #2: Watch climbing videos (00:22:21) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Film yourself incessently (00:26:27) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do perfect repeats (00:29:33) – Steven’s Tip #4: Film yourself and review the video between tries (00:30:59) – The confidence that comes from having footage of yourself climbing well (00:33:48) – “We tend to believe the things we tell ourselves.” (00:36:26) – Jesse’s Tip #4 (from Kim!): Speak the language (00:38:31) – Steven’s Tip #5: Do the one and two-star climbs at your home crag (00:40:33) – Bonus Tip: Frustration is usually a sign that there is room for improvement (00:42:12) – Bonus Tip: Have your friends set problems for you on the spray wall (00:42:12) – The satisfaction of climbing a scrappy or unpleasant climb really gracefully (00:43:34) – “Take me to a moderate that I’ve never heard of.” (00:43:56) – Jesse’s Tip #5: Treat your flexibility as a skill, and practice it on the wall (00:48:38) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Assuming you’ve learned everything there is to learn (00:51:33) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Assuming that if something looks good it must be good technique (00:55:08) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Going through the motions (00:56:38) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Becoming too robotic with your technique practice (00:58:36) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Expecting gym technique to transfer to outdoor climbing (01:02:25) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not training your technique in your strong areas (01:03:51) – Steven’s Pitfall #4: Avoiding the things that you’re bad at and turning everything into your style (01:06:14) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Be endlessly curious about how you’re moving on the wall (01:06:31) – Steven’s Top Tip: Become very interested in climbing better and bring that intention to your climbing | |||
| 19 Aug 2024 | Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff | 00:05:46 | |
We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into several important aspects of training, injury recovery, and how to break plateaus. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon. Listen to Fundamentals episodes: | |||
| 14 Mar 2022 | EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories | 04:07:17 | |
This is round 2 with John Sherman aka “The Verm”. We sat in the desert near Hueco Tanks and chatted over a few beers. We talked about ‘Wheatiesgate’ and the lost art of heckling, finding and developing areas before the internet, dealing with aging, photographing and studying birds, life lessons, injury stories, and John’s favorite beers. *I recommend listening to my first episode with Verm (EP 108) before this episode. Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/the-verm-returns Nuggets: 0:06:39 – The Michael Salem catalog 0:09:33 – West Texas in the early 80s 0:17:02 – ‘Wheatiesgate’ and the lost art of heckling 0:27:16 – Patron question from Eli: As bouldering has evolved, what has stayed the same? 0:28:39 – Adventureland, and the experience of climbing boulders without names or stars or grades 0:34:39 – Finding Ibex, UT, and discovering new areas before Google Earth 0:41:40 – Patron question from Brandon: What advice would The Verm give to a new climber? 0:48:09 – Aging, prostates, and swollen knuckles 0:55:34 – Hangdogging, new-age tactics, and why John feels like Jason Kehl is a kindred spirit 0:58:33 – What has surprised John about aging, and how baby birds poop 1:02:09 – Cognitive decline, and other scary things that come with age 1:06:32 – Taking his foot off the gas, getting out of shape, and calorie counting 1:10:29 – Getting an amazing personal trainer, and fixing his elbow issues by fixing his shoulders 1:17:52 – Patron question from Brandon: What got you into birding? And what about it got you hooked? 1:24:27 – Patron question from Brandon: Has birding taught you any life lessons? 1:42:27 – Injury stories and life lessons 2:31:29 – Developing bouldering in Ibex, UT 2:37:02 – A year in Verm’s life, and tick marks 2:44:10 – Return of the harrier, and more bird facts 2:52:10 – Favorite books and short stories 2:57:59 – Verm’s memoir idea, favorite books, and sports 3:07:50 – Climbing with Paul Robinson and Michaela Kiersch 3:14:59 – The compression revolution, John Gill, slab dynoing, and the Hoover Maneuver 3:23:59 – Patron question from Brandon: Top three beers? (and the De Garre story) 3:38:20 – Patron question from Craig: What bird best represents your personality? (and duck penises) 3:46:15 – Patron question from Craig: What bird would John Gill be? 3:53:04 – The baboon story | |||
| 29 Jan 2024 | EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ | 01:39:23 | |
Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.’, and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane’ 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra’s risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, plans for more 9c’s, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out KAYA! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO! Check out Tindeq! Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jakob-schubert Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:44) – Jakob’s best year ever (00:08:49) – Securing his ticket to Paris, and focusing on B.I.G. (00:10:40) – Inspiration for rock climbing (00:13:20) – Learning about efficiency from outdoor projects (00:16:28) – Less emphasis on winning the overall World Cup (00:18:55) – Giving away his trophies (00:20:08) – Why did Jakob choose ‘B.I.G.’ 9c and A’lphane’ 9A as projects? (00:24:16) – Teaming up with Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi (00:26:48) – Learning from Adam’s risky and efficient climbing style (00:36:13) – The quality of ‘B.I.G.’ (00:38:13) – Breakdown and logistics of ‘B.I.G.’ (00:43:46) – Breaking a hold on his send go of ‘B.I.G.’ (00:45:29) – Did live streaming change the experience? (00:48:22) – Will Jakob do more live streams in the future? (00:50:26) – His project schedule on ‘B.I.G.’ (00:53:45) – Logistics of traveling to Flatanger (00:56:26) – Is ‘B.I.G.’ the best hard route in the world? (00:59:36) – Plans to return to ‘DNA’ 9c (01:00:00) – What does ‘B.I.G.’ stand for? (01:01:45) – How Jakob prepared for ‘B.I.G.’, and revisiting the route with fresh eyes (01:09:16) – Tweaking beta to send ‘B.I.G.’ (01:11:48) – Muscle memory, connecting hard moves, and repeating boulders with different beta (01:14:48) – “Waking up” his fingers for ‘Alphane’ (01:17:14) – Analyzing videos of ‘Alphane’ (01:18:28) – Speed training (01:20:02) – Recovery (01:21:09) – Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16 (8C+) and what he learned from it (01:25:48) – Greedy (01:27:47) – What he plans to do differently for ‘Sleepwalker’ when he goes back (01:29:30) – Drew Ruana’s story about Jakob, and who Jakob has been the most impressed by (01:35:27) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser! | |||
| 19 Feb 2024 | EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns | 02:08:03 | |
Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp! Use this link for 10% off your first month! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Chalk Cartel! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app for free!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiber-returns Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:49) – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau (00:05:00) – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip (00:09:15) – Capacity and the group psych (00:12:06) – Strategy and resting hard (00:15:22) – Sleep (00:16:58) – Partnering with Alex Johnson (00:20:45) – What is Paradigm Climbing? (00:23:11) – Solving coaching puzzles (00:25:22) – 9-week cycles (00:27:34) – Deloads (00:29:19) – The brain adapts faster than the body (00:31:12) – Looking back and ahead (00:36:46) – Stacking training programs (00:42:15) – “It’s not your last day” (00:45:31) – Having Martin Keller as a mentor (00:46:37) – The similarity between training and performing (00:48:13) – Supplemental training on trips (00:50:44) – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma’ 8A+/V12 (00:53:06) – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island’ 8C/V15 (00:57:59) – Blanancing trips with his marriage (01:00:15) – Building ‘The Big Island’ replica (01:11:34) – How much does the replica cost? (01:14:14) – Training on the replica (01:22:21) – How to train on your project (01:27:45) – How much progress did he make on the replica? (01:29:16) – Progress and time remaining on his trip (01:32:32) – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles (01:35:45) – Will Charlie train this way on future projects? (01:38:40) – Will replicas unlock V18? (01:40:15) – Nalle’s FA of ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A/V17 (01:42:20) – The Ideal Circuit (01:46:43) – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar (01:51:32) – How you win comps vs. not lose comps (01:54:42) – How to create your own Ideal Circuit (01:56:30) – Creating your own boulders (01:59:08) – Imposing demands (02:01:48) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser! | |||
| 08 Aug 2022 | EP 130: Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten — Writing The Climbing Bible, Finger Strength vs. General Strength, and Strategies for Improving Technique | 02:21:12 | |
Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten are the coauthors of The Climbing Bible. We talked about their careers and proudest climbing achievements, their goal in writing their book, what holds back climbers at different levels, finger strength vs. general strength, mental strengths that separate climbers, strategies for improving technique, and the Play Box vs. the Think Box. The Climbing Bible: Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada) Buy from AdventureBooks (best if you are in the UK or Europe) Check out Frictitious Climbing! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order! Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be Check out Chalk Cartel! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products! Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stian-and-martin Nuggets: 0:07:56 – Where we’re all tuning in from 0:09:29 – Stian and Martin introduce each other 0:17:14 – What Stain and Martin admire about one another 0:22:43 – Stian’s proudest climbing accomplishments 0:26:29 – Stian’s process of projecting his hardest route (FA of a new 9a) 0:31:04 – A day in Martin’s life 0:33:16 – The pros and cons of being a route setter, and trying to balance route setting with climbing 0:38:24 – Martin’s proudest climbing accomplishments 0:43:31 – Writing The Climbing Bible, and how the book got its name 0:46:40 – Why The Climbing Bible was published as two different books, and how they interact with one another 0:48:58 – Who the books are for 0:52:06 – Question from Rannveig: When coaching, how do you balance the physical, technical, and mental sides of the sport? 0:55:29 – The shortcomings of modern gyms, and the value of making up your own boulders 1:02:09 – Stian’s thoughts on what holds climbers back from breaking into 5.11 or 5.12 1:04:28 – The importance of different physical characteristics for climbing performance, and finger strength vs. general strength 1:12:22 – The 9c test, and the benefits and limitations of physical assessments 1:20:00 – Mental strengths that separate climbers with the same physical and technical abilities, and tapping into aggression 1:29:21 – How Stian and Martin have worked on improving their own technical abilities 1:37:39 – Spray wall training vs. commercial gym sets, and separating strength sessions from technical slab sessions 1:50:00 – Separating indoor and outdoor climbing 1:51:23 – Another question from Rannveig: What are the biggest gimmicks in climbing and training right now, and what old-school methods are the most legit? 1:56:51 – “Never respect grades.” 2:01:03 – The Play Box vs. the Think Box, and the story of Stian’s FA of Eurofighter V13/14 (8B/+) 2:11:06 – What to expect if you buy The Climbing Bible 2:14:49 – We should be movement optimists 2:16:47 – Where to buy the book, and wrap up | |||
| 07 Aug 2023 | EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands | 02:09:31 | |
It’s a Northeast takeover here in Rocklands! Austin Hoyt returns to the podcast and is joined by Troy Fauteux and Bryce Viola. The boys sat down with me and Ethan Pringle for a fireside chat at our cabin. These guys are all total crushers and most importantly, they have a lot of fun. Join us for a crackling good time! Huge thank you to Liam Andrews-Bancroft for the incredible music at the end of this episode. Troy's Video: Pawtuckaway Bouldering - Warrior V3 Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! Check out AG1! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Wonderful Pistachios! WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more! Check out Rocky Talkie! Use this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Austin's Previous Episode: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/troy-austin-bryce Nuggets: 0:07:13 – Flipping cars and stealing clothes 0:12:00 – “Brad… it's, it’s bad.” 0:18:15 – Troy’s top 3 most scary climbing experiences 0:26:26 – Plans for Tuesday and Monkey Wedding 0:28:13 – Living Large and Finish Line 0:31:13 – Progress on Monkey Wedding, and Austin’s longest project 0:32:43 – Austin’s efforts on Lucid Dreaming, and Alex Megos taping video 0:35:13 – Quintessential and Industry of Cool 0:38:25 – Bryce’s trip so far 0:39:52 – Favorite zones in Rocklands 0:43:24 – Pure, and how fast the level is changing 0:45:36 – Highlights from Rocklands, and having fun 0:48:59 – Industry of Cool, hiking 300+ miles to send The Nest, and unfinished business in Spain 0:52:45 – Sport climbing aspirations, and Max Zolotukhin falling off of Super Nova while trying to free solo it 0:58:17 – Challenging access, and do New England climbers have more fun? 1:02:03 – Potential and rock quality in the NE, and Bryce’s job 1:09:07 – Troy’s job detailing cars, and climbing in West Virginia 1:11:32 – Austin’s tick list 1:14:14 – The variety of styles in Rocklands, and toe hook training 1:16:48 – How long everyone has been climbing, and the BMX connection 1:20:02 – The new crop of young talent 1:24:42 – Most recent comps, and the shorter shelf life of top-level competitors 1:29:41 – Ultimate dream boulders 1:31:31 – Trying climbs way above and below your level, and the V15 goal 1:34:49 – Ethan’s goal to find 5.15 in the Sierra Nevada, and the rarity of all-natural hard routes 1:38:01 – Choss and rain and Hueco, and Ethan’s top 3 favorite bouldering areas 1:41:30 – Almost dying on the topout of The Mandala 1:42:58 – “Dad I’m bread. ” 1:44:31 – Will we climb until we die? 1:45:57 – Mystery climbs in Rocklands 1:48:18 – The drunk comp, and the Anchorman of climbing 1:51:59 – The Lifetime Project guy 1:53:44 – Milkshakes and final goals for the trip 1:57:28 – Airstar getting action 1:58:51 – Ethan’s most epic bat hangs 1:59:58 – Austin’s send of Direct North 2:01:00 – Near misses | |||
| 02 Aug 2021 | EP 80: Robb Wolf — Prioritizing Protein, the Importance of Sleep, and a Case for a Meat Inclusive Diet | 01:35:58 | |
Robb Wolf is a former research biochemist and 2x New York Times best-selling author of The Paleo Solution and Wired To Eat. We talked about his breakfast, how he tackles nutrition with his two kids, his path to the paleo diet, why low-carb is not necessarily ideal for hard-charging athletes, the importance of protein and sleep, and about his latest book Sacred Cow. Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/robb-wolf Nuggets: 3:17 – Overview of the conversation 5:22 – Robb’s breakfast breakdown 9:22 – Savory breakfast, protein, and how Robb navigates nutrition with his kids 13:49 – Robb’s background in biochemistry, studying cancer, ulcerative colitis, and his path to ancestral diets and paleo in 1998 17:34 – Establishing the 1st and 4th Crossfit Affiliate gyms, working with athletes on their nutrition, and helping normal people with complex health issues 22:13 – Why I (Steven) appreciate Robb’s mindset around learning and coaching, and some of the issues Robb witnessed with hard-charging Crossfit athletes, and when low-carb and fasting might be inappropriate 30:04 – Common symptoms other than leanness that can be tied to our diets 36:00 – Biggest bang-for-your-buck recommendations from Robb related to diet and lifestyle (protein and sleep) 39:51 – The importance of sleep, and the effects of sleep deprivation 42:34 – Robb’s parallel sleep universe 44:14 – Practical recommendations for a climber at a burger joint, and Robb’s breakfast club 46:46 – Protein powders and supplements vs. whole foods 51:05 – Sacred Cow, a case for better meat, and breaking down the carbon and methane life cycle of beef production 1:02:33 – Water use for beef and almonds 1:06:00 – Putting on your high school debate hat, and reversing desertification with ruminant animals 1:09:17 – Forbes article, and how big food and big pharma benefit from a meatless planet (and why that should concern us) 1:11:21 – Is the solution still to eat “less” meat? 1:21:09 – Patron Question from Max: Are hotdogs Paleo? 1:21:59 – Patreon Question from Yoni: How does Robb challenge his own beliefs and biases? 1:28:05 – LMNT electrolytes and The Healthy Rebellion 1:31:33 – Gratitude | |||
| 04 Sep 2023 | EP 184: Nic Rummel — Embracing Thickness, Lessons From 9 Years of Hangboarding, and Doing Whatever It Takes to Feel Like a Badass | 03:01:44 | |
Nic Rummel is an applied mathematician and expert boulderer. Ethan Pringle joins as co-host for another fun episode from Rocklands. We talked about embracing his nickname “Thick Nic”, lessons from working with Matt Fultz, sending V13 crimp boulders at 185 lbs, epic math projects, taking ballet to practice movement, the keys to a good spray wall, go-to hangboard protocols for epic finger strength, how lifting weights led to his best trip ever, finding mentorship in an 80-year-old climbing legend, and much more! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! Check out AG1! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Wonderful Pistachios! WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more! Check out Rocky Talkie! Use this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios! Check out Rumpl! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nic-rummel Nuggets: 0:06:39 – Test, test, testing… 0:08:24 – How Thique Nic got his nickname, and embracing the body you’re given 0:15:02 – Viking-built, trucks vs. Mazdas 0:17:43 – Working with Matt & Hailey (Franklin) Fultz, and the confidence that comes with hitting strength benchmarks 0:20:39 – Everyone wants to be like someone else, and being proud of the climber you’ve become 0:23:29 – I’m on one, training for his local project in Fort Collins CO, and why he had such a successful trip to Rocklands 0:30:08 – Deloading, Nic’s job in missile tracking and detection, and going back to school for a graduate degree 0:35:23 – Needing more rest now that he is in school 0:36:14 – Nic’s longest boulder project vs. his math problem 0:41:29 – Applied math vs. pure math 0:46:00 – The math problem that took Nic the longest to solve 0:49:01 – Finding better beta on the JABE problem 0:54:06 – Mathing vs. bouldering, comparison, and balancing multiple passions 0:58:49 – Having a physical goal, an artistic goal, and an intellectual goal 1:00:04 – Artistic outlets, and making an art film 1:02:13 – Ballet 1:11:32 – Nic’s crimping journey 1:16:29 – Beating Matt Fultz to the 200 lb OTG, doing 58 pullups in a minute, and getting confidence from metrics 1:21:19 – Nic’s crimping journey continued, and long-term hangboard training 1:24:32 – Nic’s key takeaways from reading Ned Feehally’s book Beastmaking 1:26:07 – Doing a hangboarding workout before trying your project, and adapting over time 1:27:53 – Nic’s go-to hangboard protocols 1:32:09 – Nic’s top hangboard recommendation that he got from Will Anglin 1:34:15 – Nic’s thoughts on training micros 1:35:53 – When to do the Will Anglin workout, and doing long-duration hangs as part of his warmup 1:37:34 – Being warmup kings, and training less than usual 1:41:05 – Ethan’s feelings 1:42:41 – Nic’s secret crimp project, and doing the stand to Andramada 1:44:41 – Working on climbing movement, and how he set up his home wall to work on his weaknesses 1:47:56 – How the home wall facilitated community, and buying his house in Fort Collins 1:51:54 – The evolution of Nic’s home wall, and why he doesn’t like big holds on boards 1:56:04 – Ethan tries to convince Nic to try Scorsese 5.14c in the Poudre 1:57:45 – Setting as a creative outlet, and what he wishes he could change about his home wall 2:00:07 – Why Nic doesn’t recommend using T-nuts on a home wall 2:02:15 – Using electric scooters to get to Lincoln Lake 2:09:06 – Ethan hates on CO alpine bouldering, and the boys compare it to Eldo and the Flatirons 2:13:59 – How Nic ended up in Boulder, living on Paul’s land, and renovating his trailer 2:23:22 – Showering, splitting time between the trailer and his house, and having Paul as a mentor 2:28:54 – Wanting to feel like a badass, and finding balance 2:32:30 – Feeling content with his trip, getting sick, and sending Sky V13 2:35:59 – Lifting weights to keep up with his sister 2:38:02 – Taking measurements of his body, and how he’s changed over the years 2:39:04 – Nic’s brother, his siblings’ climbing, and a lesson from powerlifting 2:43:54 – Dream climbs, plans to try more V14s, and why he got hurt on his project 2:47:58 – Music City Hot Chicken 2:48:34 – Go-to breakfast 2:49:37 – Go-to climbing shoes 2:52:17 – Climbing in Red Feather 2:53:07 – Trap music 2:54:31 – Obtaining big goals 2:56:55 – Ethan talks about Nic’s send of Airstar V13 2:58:41 – Wrap up | |||
| 03 Jan 2022 | EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing | 02:07:14 | |
Ben Moon is a famous rock climber from the UK. He was the first person to climb 5.14c (8c+) with his route ‘Hubble’. He is also the inventor of the MoonBoard. We talked about his early climbing experiences as a kid, his first road trip to Buoux in France in 1984, how training and sport climbing have changed, how Ben uses the MoonBoard, and much more. Check out PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Chalk Cartel: Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ben-moon Nuggets: 6:02 – Putting a face to the voice, Ben’s travels in the US back in the day, and feeling like he missed out on traveling 9:17 – A dry November in the UK, and Will Bosi doing the first repeat of ‘Mutation’ 11:14 – How Ben first started to climb at age 7 14:38 – Being “bitten right away” by climbing, and breaking his wrist skateboarding 16:17 – Flopping out of school and living off the dole and climbing full time 18:57 – Hunter House Road 22:16 – Standards and climbing styles in the early 80s, and training on a brick wall 26:16 – Climbing equipment in 1984 27:53 – Buoux, meeting Jerry Moffatt, and Ben’s first-ever road trip 35:38 – Doing the FA of ‘Statement of Youth’ 37:54 – Friendly competition 39:08 – Dreadlocks and punk rock 40:10 – Shifting to bouldering for its own sake 42:32 – From 8a to 8c+ (or 9a) in 6 years… what was happening? 45:28 – The School Room 46:36 – How Ben and Jerry were training in the School Room, how it compares to how people train now, and Ben’s thoughts on deadhanging (hangboarding) and campus boarding 51:00 – How the Moonboard first came to be 56:56 – Moon Climbing as a company 1:00:42 – Patron question from Griffin: Favorite Moonboard hold set? Best for training? 1:02:06 – Patron question from Rebecca: New hold sets coming? Have you thought about circuits? 1:03:28 – Patron question from Karl: Looking back, what would you change about the Moonboard holds or design? 1:05:22 – Why the Moonboard is a vastly more powerful training tool than Ben’s old cellar board 1:07:37 – Patron question from Will: How does Ben use the Moonboard, and what are some of his go-to session formats? 1:12:35 – Bouldering as Ben’s top training priority, and why he thinks variety is key 1:14:11 – How Ben structures his training throughout the year, and within a week 1:17:10 – What Ben and I would each change about our training if we could go back in time 1:21:21 – FA of ‘Voyager Sit’ 8B+ (V14) 1:24:07 – Quitting climbing after ‘Voyager Sit’, and coming back and climbing ‘Rainshadow’ 9a (5.14d) 1:27:59 – Training fitness on the route, and gaining fitness with age, but fighting to maintain strength 1:31:17 – Circuit training at the climbing gym 1:34:30 – Question from Steve McClure: Does Ben feel the age thing yet? 1:38:24 – Ben’s ongoing battle with ‘Northern Lights’, and thoughts on kneebars 1:45:38 – Patron question from Markham: Background on the Mini MoonBoard? Future plans for it? 1:47:07 – Ben’s thoughts on the MoonBoard gades (he thinks they’re hard!) 1:49:24 – How hard Ben climbs on the MoonBoard 1:50:11 – Patron question from Florian: Is the Mini MoonBoard the most relevant board for training for rock? 1:51:41 – Recommendations for people who train on a MoonBoard at home, and future tools that will help 1:54:29 – Patron question from PogoStickJoe: What is the definition of Dowsy Fuck? (turns out it was “Dozy Fuck”), and what it feels like for Ben to watch his old movies 1:56:45 – Patron question from Oskar: Where can I watch The Real Thing online? (It’s in the show notes!) 1:57:45 – Patron question from Andreson: Any expedition stories? 1:58:34 – Starting a clothing brand, and getting inspiration from Christian Griffith 2:00:28 – What is Ben’s legacy? 2:02:20 – Which of Ben’s climbing achievements stand out to him 2:02:37 – What’s next for Ben, and unfinished goals 2:03:40 – Where you can find Ben (@moonclimbing on Instagram) 2:03:59 – “Train hard, climb harder.” | |||
| 19 Jul 2021 | EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets | 01:44:31 | |
Jason Kehl is a professional rock climber known for his highball bouldering ascents, and unique artistic expression. We talked about karate and how screaming helps his climbing, roof climbing in his parents' basement, a chronology of his haircuts, vans he’s lived in, having kids, bouldering with cargo nets in Hueco Tanks, and notable highball ascents like ‘Evilution’ and ‘The Fly’. Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jason-kehl Nuggets: 2:05 – Karate 6:48 – Power screaming and made-up words 9:20 – ‘Count to Six and Die’ 10:47 – Growing up in a small town in Maryland, climbing trees, the basement home wall, and Jason’s go-to move 15:53 – Parental support 16:34 – Jason’s journey to bouldering, and climbing ‘Evilution’ 20:25 – Getting noticed for highballing, and bouldering ‘The Fly’ 25:15 – Joe’s Valley 27:29 – Jason in High School, pocket protectors, and the weird kid’s lunch table 30:51 – Developing his image, sponsorship, and performing for an audience 32:45 – The competition disguise 33:50 – Jason’s theme song 35:25 – A chronicle of Jason’s hairstyles 42:30 – The Dreaded Wudan Mullet 43:30 – A chronicle of Jason’s vans 47:35 – Falling in love with Hueco, and climbing in the summer 52:30 – Are there any FAs left in Hueco? 55:37 – Having kids, and focusing your time 1:06:38 – Cargo nets 1:17:35 – Social Media, and being a professional climber 1:25:44 – Patron Question from Logan: What was the most difficult part of dropping everything to be a pro climber? 1:28:01 – Odd jobs 1:29:39 – Patron Question from Will: How did the NE influence his climbing? 1:33:16 – Patron Question from Nick: Do you ever go back and repeat dangerous climbs you’ve done before? 1:35:53 – Gratitude 1:37:40 – Don’t give away the beta 1:41:22 – Reminders and stuff I’m excited about
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| 15 Apr 2021 | Follow-Up: Jon Glassberg — Sending ‘The Nest’, and Representing for the Big Guys (Teaser) | 00:18:58 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jon Glassberg. We talked about sending ‘The Nest’ (his first V15) and breaking down barriers as a “big” climber (6’3”, 190 lbs), we talked about some of Jon’s milestone’s over the years, how he trained his power endurance after sending the stand start’, projecting tactics, keys to success, washing his hands before tries, and more. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:00:20. | |||
| 07 Feb 2022 | EP 105: Brent Barghahn — How to Retire Before Age 30, Extreme Unicycling, and How to Free Climb Big Walls By Yourself | 01:58:10 | |
Brent Barghahn has rope soloed ‘The Nose’ in a day, freed multiple routes on El Cap, and is a former engineer at Black Diamond. We talked about how Brent combined van life and “house hacking” to effectively retire at 28-years-old, about motocross and extreme unicycling, cutting his teeth on hard trad routes in LCC, and his setup for redpoint rope soloing. Check out Athletic Greens! Use the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brent-barghahn Nuggets: 0:05:41 – Living in the BD parking lot, using van life as a way to save money, and a snapshot of Brent’s life 2.5 years ago 0:09:40 – My (Steven’s) stint living in a van in my employer’s parking lot 0:10:59 – Brent’s urban van life tips, stealth camping, and choosing van life as a financial tool 0:16:27 – Two different van life ethos 0:17:16 – What Brent’s life looks like now, house hacking, and how Brent “retired” at 28-years-old 0:35:21 – Extreme Unicycling, welding, and his charge account at the local hardware store 0:43:37 – Motocross, and similarities between action sports and trad climbing 0:46:01 – How dangerous climbing stacks up to motocross, and rope soloing The Nose in a day 0:49:04 – Getting hurt every year, quitting motocross, and discovering climbing 0:51:58 – How Brent improved so quickly in climbing, and why he loves technical granite climbing 0:57:38 – Patron question from Christoph: How do you train for hard trad climbing specifically? 0:58:50 – Patron question from Christoph: How does his preparation for hard trad redpoints differ from sport? 1:00:11 – Finishing climbs after a failed flash/onsight attempt 1:01:08 – Brent’s formative years trad climbing in LCC 1:05:48 – Why Brent chooses rope solo free climbing for some of his ascents, and his first rope solo NIAD (Nose in a day) 1:13:27 – Brent’s rope solo free climbing setup, and freeing ‘Father Time’ on Middle Cathedral via rope solo 1:23:31 – Brent’s take on big wall free climbing ethics, groud up ascents, his stance to stance philosophy, and the “Affect Minimal Parties” ethos 1:33:39 – Brent’s biggest aspirations in the Valley 1:34:46 – Brent’s go-to shoes for technical granite, and how he is training for ‘Magic Line’ 1:42:24 – Choosing Flagstaff as a home base 1:45:15 – How Brent decides when to go on trips vs. stay local, and finding meaningful “work” now that he is “retired” 1:49:21 – Brent’s blog and other sedentary rest day activities 1:54:22 – What’s next | |||
| 28 Aug 2023 | EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road | 02:23:07 | |
Jenn DeBellis is an elite-level boulderer and software engineer. We sat down in Rocklands and talked about her biggest lessons from childhood gymnastics and collegiate athletics, trying V13s in Magic Wood and Rocklands, getting comfortable with failure, learning to embrace her style, her elaborate warmup routine, how she plans her 6-week training cycles, her role with KAYA, tips for sustaining a full-time job on the road, and much more! Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp! Use this link for 10% off your first month! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Chalk Cartel! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Rumpl! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! Check out Wonderful Pistachios! WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Support on Patreon: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jenn-debellis Nuggets: 0:04:57 – Bugs and SAT words 0:06:39 – Jenn’s gymnastics background, and pole vaulting in college 0:11:12 – Paying attention to the best qualities in our friends 0:13:15 – Tough coaches, and learning to be tough on herself 0:15:00 – Being comfortable with failure, and Jenn’s Olympic aspirations in gymnastics 0:19:26 – Setting the scene 0:20:09 – Getting inspired by Ray of Light V13, and Jenn’s initial goals for her trip to Rocklands 0:22:24 – The breakdown of Ray of Light, and the standards in Rocklands 0:24:10 – V10 and 8A, and the decision to try really hard and inspiring things 0:26:30 – The 8a leaderboard, and shift her philosophy to chase dream boulders 0:30:50 – My new shoe mod for Black Shadow 0:34:08 – Getting excited about “sending” crux moves, and turning small wins into big wins 0:35:59 – Trying beyond limit boulders, and making tradeoffs 0:40:21 – Jenn and I compare our experiences with Black Shadow and Ray of Light, and share takeaways 0:48:00 – The climbers we’ve learned from, and the truth about people who climb hard 0:51:04 – Owning your style, not falling into the pitfall of trying to copy your peers, and trying Full Throttle V13 in Hueco 0:57:23 – How living on the road has changed my perception of climbing, and different ways you can express difficulty in climbing 0:59:06 – Working on her strengths and supplementing her weaknesses 1:01:20 – Thinking about her training in checkboxes 1:03:14 – Not knowing where home is, and having many homes on the road 1:08:28 – Jenn’s lifestyle, leaving her PhD program to live in a van 1:15:05 – How Jenn balances indoor training and outdoor performance 1:17:49 – How she plans her training cycles, and using autoregulation to ramp up after a trip 1:21:29 – “Injury is the enemy.” 1:22:12 – How Jenn balances her climbing life with a full-time remote job 1:23:46 – Life is 30% less efficient on the road 1:25:49 – Tips for finding cheap rent in cities 1:26:54 – The dirtbag mindset, how to make working on the road sustainable 1:31:13 – How Jenn structures a 6-week training block, and the key ingredients in her training 1:33:07 – Weight lifting, and cutting out accessory exercises 1:35:07 – Board climbing, and how to train for something like Full Throttle 1:36:46 – Jenn’s long-ass climbing warmup 1:40:21 – The different stages of Jenn’s warmup 1:41:28 – Keeping training and outdoor trips separate 1:43:45 – Improving year on year 1:44:54 – Upcoming trips and goals, and training 4x4s on her home wall 1:47:53 – KAYA, Jenn’s role on the engineering team, and her passion for her work 1:54:44 – Favorite rock type, and thinking better on granite 1:57:08 – Ultimate dream climbs, and meaningful first female ascents 1:59:34 – Joe’s Valley doughnuts 2:01:11 – Kodiak Cakes 2:02:06 – Go-to climbing shoes 2:02:17 – Jenn’s connection to Joe’s Valley, and how she became a software engineer 2:05:02 – Desert Island DVDs 2:06:31 – Hype music 2:08:27 – Best decision she’s ever made, and how long she sees herself living this lifestyle 2:11:42 – Thoughts about having a family and drawing inspiration from strong moms 2:12:42 – What Jenn wishes people spent less time thinking about 2:14:25 – Building out her van 2:17:36 – Toying with the idea of bringing back blogs 2:19:45 – Wrapping up in the dark | |||
| 01 Nov 2021 | EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story | 02:32:07 | |
This is part 2 of my conversation with Tom Herbert. Tom shared some clarifications about part 1, we talked about the nervous system and the mind-body connection, how to relax before a session to improve your performance and power, how to turn off in the evenings to optimize recovery, and Tom shared about his childhood and ongoing struggle with anxiety from a chronic bladder issue. Support the Podcast: We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-herbert-part-2 Nuggets: 4:35 – Tom’s anxiety about this conversation, my bleached hair, and red bush tea 7:30 – Clarifications from Part 1, more carb considerations, and keeping a training journal 18:12 – What Tom is currently working on with Aiden Roberts, and reducing fiber to drop water weight 24:45 – Alpha GBC supplementation for vegetarians and vegans, Tom’s experiment with climbing 30 days in a row, and lessons about hydration 29:44 – The mind-body connection 33:21 – Anxiety, butterflies in your stomach, falling in love, and the physical pain of heartbreak 36:27 – Examples of working with clients with fear of specific foods, the mathematics of fat gain, and intellectual vs. emotional conversations 39:49 – Phobias, catastrophizing, pain research, and looking upstream 44:21 – Referring clients out to therapy 48:31 – The hamstring test, and the connection between breathing and relaxation 51:35 – “Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee”, belly breathing, and the significance of climbing in a defensive (tight) state 55:18 – Reset send, and how to relax before your climbing session to increase your passat reserve 59:32 – “You have control over your mental state through your body”, the bidirectional influence of the nervous system, and heart rate variability 1:03:05 – How the parasympathetic state opens up opportunity, and the effect of imitating different postures (the Shawshank pose) 1:08:48 – Belly breathing for more passat 1:11:23 – Bracing vs creating tension 1:15:09 – Practicing turning tension on and off 1:17:31 – Strong First and creating inter abdominal pressure 1:18:43 – Sending the appropriate signal for your session, and how to prepare for powerful climbing 1:24:41 – Replenishing the creatine phosphate system 1:26:40 – How to turn off at the end of the day, and improve recovery 1:31:07 – Tricks for sleep, sleeping posture, and self-massage (knuckling) 1:35:15 – Tom’s foam roller ab stretch 1:37:37 – Where your mind should be during the evening breathing practice, and rewiring your brain patterns 1:40:35 – EMDR and brain spotting, and moving your eyes during your climbing session 1:49:39 – Opening our field of vision, and why we feel relaxed in nature or at the ocean 1:51:26 – How to increase power by marching in place, and climbing open 1:53:09 – My plans to try EMDR on Eternia 1:55:05 – Tom’s childhood 2:00:21 – Moving to the UK to become a techno DJ, and getting into debt 2:02:31 – Living off of milk and protein powder, getting kidney stones, and urinary urgency 2:04:52 – Trapped in a small world 2:08:20 – Empathy and patience for others 2:10:50 – Life is chaos, losing his sister, and turning 40 2:15:35 – Causing ripples and creating freedom for other people 2:19:10 – Doing things just because they are fun 2:21:07 – Going back to pole dance 2:22:54 – Good days and bad days, and moving in a better direction 2:24:45 – Hoping to start working with people in person again, and 2022 plans for usefulcoach
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| 18 Dec 2023 | EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing | 03:01:38 | |
Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded. It’s a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will and Matt provide clear and in-depth guidance for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers in this three-hour masterclass. If you feel stuck at a plateau or simply want to progress to the next level, don’t skip this episode! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Green Chef! Use code "nugget250" at checkout for $250 off! The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp! Use this link for 10% off your first month! Check out Wonderful Pistachios! WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-and-matt Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro/Ads (00:03:55) – Introducing to Matt Jones (00:06:43) – The goal of this episode, and who it’s for (00:09:20) – How we are defining beginner, intermediate, and advanced (00:12:37) – Reminder about timestamps (00:13:31) – Overview of core themes (skills and strength feedback loop, the four stages of competence, selecting training tools) (00:20:24) – My first plateau in climbing, and helping people identify and address what they’re missing --BEGINNER STARTS HERE-- (00:23:45) – Beginner | Overview (00:23:45) – Gaining initial awareness, and meat suit competence (00:25:53) – Beginner | Strong Not Good (00:27:35) – The Hammer (00:28:51) – Not everything is a nail (00:30:00) – The hammeriest hammer Matt and Will have ever seen, and taking away the hammer (00:34:06) – Beginner | Good Not Strong (00:34:06) – The goal for the beginner climber overall is to diversify the toolset (00:34:47) – The Stringbean (aka The Crowbar) (00:36:18) – Overutilizing sneaky tricks, and adding constraints/rules to your climbing (00:41:48) – Interventions for beginners (00:46:35) – Identifying the low-hanging fruit (00:47:40) – Beginner | Summary (00:51:11) – Using climbing as a training intervention (00:53:41) – Checking your ego (00:55:27) – Building strength and skill at the same time through climbing --INTERMEDIATE STARTS HERE-- (00:59:06) – Intermediate | Overview (00:59:06) – Exiting the beginner stage, and learning to quantify your progress beyond grades (01:01:42) – “Oh no, now what?!” (01:03:22) – The logarithmic aspect of climbing the grade scale, and the room for growth as a climber (01:05:24) – My experience of collecting more tools in sport climbing in the last 6 years (01:07:14) – Finding what trying hard means, and the Nationals training camp story (01:10:09) – Trying hard vs. trying well (01:12:10) – Identifying what you need to address in your climbing (01:13:30) – Understanding exactly what you’re doing, and why it is working or not working (01:17:54) – Intermediate | Strong Not Good (01:18:51) – Chunking (01:20:25) – Getting beyond the left-right-left, and increasing the resolution of your beta (01:22:47) – The guess and check model, and turning new dials (01:25:21) – The sloth monkey drill, and finding the line (01:27:50) – Hip in vs. square drill (01:29:43) – Building a process for problem-solving (01:30:16) – Guidance for off-the-wall training for the intermediate climber (01:33:38) – Keeping off-the-wall training in perspective, and becoming fluent in training (01:39:20) – A tactical pitfall for intermediate climbers (01:43:00) – Why you shouldn’t punt, the nuance of resting, and energy economy (01:48:20) – Separating practice, training, and performance (01:50:11) – Intermediate | Good Not Strong (01:50:11) – Getting the reps in, and eating your vegetables first (01:56:34) – Strength training to support your movement, and learning to reverse engineer moves (02:03:19) – Asking why, being more intentional, and why Chris Sharma led the intermediate climbers astray (02:04:33) – More on reverse engineering, amplifying your strength through mobility, and being in the correct position (02:07:12) – Learning how to guide yourself, and choosing how to train (02:10:31) – The optimal training plan doesn’t exist, and it’s ok to have fun --ADVANCED STARTS HERE-- (02:16:25) – Advanced | Overview (02:18:41) – Specific goals, and going from dial-up to fiber optic (02:21:46) – Advanced | Strong Not Good & Good Not Strong (02:23:57) – Occupying the position (02:29:14) – Mobility and sensation (02:33:33) – Proprioception, feeling mode, and micro beta (02:37:57) – The Golfer study (02:41:00) – The opportunity of the intermediate climber, and Will’s beef with strength metrics (02:43:23) – Affordances, and becoming a better athlete (02:46:31) – Off-the-wall training for an advanced climber, and Usain Bolt (02:51:23) – Misusing tools from the pros (02:56:50) – Wrap up, and EXTRA teaser | |||
| 15 May 2023 | EP 169: Scott Johnston — A Masterclass in Training Principles, and Why Boulderers Should Train Their Aerobic System | 03:05:08 | |
Scott Johnston is a world-class coach who specializes in mountain endurance sports. This episode is a masterclass in training principles and is packed full of nuggets for climbers, including boulderers. We talked about why it’s a mistake to mimic top athletes, tips for balancing climbing with other sports, capacity vs. utilization, why to back off after a personal best, developing layers of endurance, the flaw with HRV, how to test your recovery before training, how to fail successfully, the future of alpinism and mountain running, and much more! Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Rumpl! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! Check out Rocky Talkie! Use this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios! Check out Tindeq! Use code “NUGGET” for $10 off! I recommend the Progressor 150 for finger training and testing.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/scott-johnston Nuggets: 0:04:56 – Inventing telescopes, and refurbishing European sports cars 0:11:25 – Being a cross-country ski racer, climbing with Steve House, and getting into coaching 0:13:22 – Why Scott and Steve decided to write Training for the New Alpinism 0:15:30 – Partnering with Kilian Journett on a second book Training for the Uphill Athlete 0:19:00 – The mistake of trying to mimic people like Killian Journett or Adam Ondra 0:23:05 – Sound bites, the dumbing down of our attention spans, and applying traditional training methods to unconventional sports 0:25:09 – Who is the Uphill Athlete book for? 0:27:56 – Being a general outdoor athlete and a climber 0:28:54 – Patron question from Alex: Tips for training for bouldering and sport climbing during ski season and vice versa? 0:34:42 – Why more training isn’t always better 0:37:39 – Building capacity, and why you rarely perform well while you’re training 0:39:19 – Block periodization 0:42:09 – Monitoring your recovery, using a hangboard to check in, and the restorative effect of easy aerobic activity 0:46:59 – Capacity vs. utilization training 0:54:26 – Training vs. randomly exercising 0:57:16 – Fundamental qualities of sports, and building capacity in different qualities 1:03:32 – Putting money in the bank vs. spending it 1:07:18 – Why you should back off after you hit a PR in your training 1:12:24 – Deloads 1:16:40 – Non-linear periodization 1:18:54 – The aerobic system, and the vacuum cleaner analogy 1:25:54 – Developing layers of endurance 1:27:52 – How and why boulderers and sport climbers should train endurance 1:31:56 – More about the layers of endurance 1:38:25 – My upcoming Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel, why training needs to be more specific at higher levels, and how recovery makes you stronger 1:41:33 – How important is active recovery? 1:44:32 – The flaw with HRV for measuring recovery 1:50:20 – Tuning in to your body, and how to test your level of fatigue 1:53:34 – Using the Tindeq to test your finger strength before training (use code NUGGET for $10 off) 1:56:47 – Why monitoring your progress leads to mental toughness 2:03:19 – How to get the experience you need to climb technical mountains and alpine routes 2:06:25 – The Dreaded Water Carries, and improving muscular endurance 2:19:29 – How long and how often should our training blocks be? 2:22:20 – Losing two climbing partners on K2 2:27:33 – How to fail successfully 2:34:09 – Inventing challenges, and the essential parts of being human 2:38:02 – Scott’s current outdoor lifestyle, and trying to slow the decline as aging athletes 2:42:26 – Doing max strength to recover from hard endurance work 2:46:15 – A teaser for how to increase your weighted pull-ups 2:50:29 – Where to find Scott 2:52:33 – What excites Scott the most about the future of alpinism and mountain running 2:56:40 – Understanding training principles, and the key takeaway from this episode | |||
| 10 May 2024 | EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11 | 01:30:59 | |
Mat Wright returns to the podcast to talk about his send of ‘Rhapsody’! We talked about the emotional dip after a hard send, the power of letting things come to you, making your own luck, patience as a tactic, top-down projecting, feeding our internal climbing algorithms, his process and how it felt to send, his next project, learning how to take the pressure off, and much more! Get coaching from Mat! Check out Kletterkalk UK! Mat's go-to chalk, and a great option for folks in the UK and Europe!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mat-wright-returns Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:16) – Catch up and self-coaching (00:08:58) – The dip after a hard send (00:11:57) – Letting things come to you (00:15:28) – His approach to ‘Rhapsody’ E11 (00:21:33) – Mindset and preparation (00:24:22) – Making your own luck (00:27:01) – Patience as a tactic (00:31:51) – Top-down projecting (00:36:15) – Feeding the climbing algorithm (00:39:57) – Self 1 and self 2 (00:41:37) – The send (00:44:54) – The process (00:51:17) – The emotions after the send (00:54:57) – Mat’s next project (00:59:09) – Not taking it quite so seriously (01:03:08) – Taking the pressure off (01:11:00) – Taking time off (01:18:37) – Less vs. more (01:24:07) – Wrap up | |||
| 05 Feb 2024 | EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith | 02:44:30 | |
Anak Verhoeven is a professional climber from Belgium and one of the most accomplished female sport climbers ever. We talked about growing up with her mom as coach and dad as trainer, why she quit competitions, dealing with a strange injury that plagued her for 3+ years, winning her first World Cup, building 9a+ endurance with mediocre training facilities, making up rules in the gym, her onsighting strategy, being public about her faith, and much more! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Green Chef! Use code "60nugget" at checkout for 60% off plus 20% off your next two months! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp! Use this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/anak-verhoeven Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:14) – Living in a small motorhome with her parents on long trips (00:06:40) – Anak’s 9a and harder resume, and her level of fame in Belgium (00:10:03) – How Anak makes a living (00:13:51) – The advantages of doing everything herself (00:15:48) – How her mom and dad became her coach and trainer (00:17:58) – Practicing her autograph as a kid (00:20:13) – Competing in her first international competition (00:22:34) – Struggling in early competitions, and navigating disappointment (00:25:54) – Setting the bar high (00:27:47) – Family meetings (00:31:24) – Rest days, exercises, and hair washing (00:37:04) – Leading her first route at age 4 (00:41:08) – Getting injured and falling in love with climbing (00:44:19) – The variety within climbing (00:50:50) – Why Anak quit competitions (00:56:51) – Anak’s strange arm injury (01:06:46) – Working on her shoulder mobility (01:10:21) – Keeping her arm injury a secret (01:14:08) – Current status of her arm (01:17:05) – Understanding what folks with chronic illness go through (01:20:59) – What does Anak miss the most about competitions? (01:25:46) – Longer trips, and the stress of competitions (01:30:43) – Winning her first World Cup in Arco (01:34:05) – The satisfaction of sending Ciudad de Dios pa la Enmienda (01:42:15) – Getting fresh air during competitions (01:44:59) – Anak’s training shed (01:47:57) – Training on the same routes for 3 years, and motivation vs. fancy facilities (01:53:01) – Anak’s strategy for onsighting comp routes (01:57:11) – Making up rules at the gym (02:01:36) – How Anak built her endurance (02:07:15) – Mental endurance (02:11:27) – 9b and trad climbing goals for 2024 (02:14:43) – Why she is open about her faith (02:22:33) – How do climbers react to her faith? (02:29:46) – The pressure I felt as a kid to spread faith, and moving away from religion (02:33:09) – How Anak thinks about sharing her faith, and her lack of judgment toward other people (02:34:57) – Choosing her faith for herself (02:37:57) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser! | |||
| 07 Jul 2022 | Follow-Up: Alita Contreras — Sending Her First 5.14a, and Training With Lattice (Teaser) | 00:21:37 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Alita Contreras. We talked about mental training and how Alita trains her mind every day, what it was like working with Lattice Training, exercises and drills for improving foot tension, dealing with frustration during projecting, what it felt like to send Ferrari 5.14a, goals to climb more 5.14s, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:02:56. Alita's Original Episode: | |||
| 07 Jul 2021 | A Call from Ethan | 00:32:45 | |
Ethan missed the Q&A and had a question he wanted to ask me. | |||
| 23 Aug 2021 | EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses | 01:45:39 | |
Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa. Support the Podcast: Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn Nuggets: 2:30 – The other side of the mic 4:11 – Singing and piano, and hating performing 7:21 – Connections between podcasting, climbing, and music 10:00 – Not wanting a boss, creating TrainingBeta, and Neely’s background in the paleo world 11:40 – Neely’s initial plan for TrainingBeta, and the podcast as an afterthought 12:35 – Scratching her own itch, getting fired, and brainstorming 16:48 – Downloads and reads, the weight loss topic, and my eating disorder story 20:58 – How to talk about fat loss, and how to do that in a healthy manner 24:09 – Writing a book about the paleo diet, Neely’s health journey, and the impact of food on health 29:15 – Neely’s diet before paleo 30:19 – Why Neely rarely recommends the paleo diet, and the individuality of nutrition coaching 32:42 – Neely’s most common nutrition recommendations (carb sources, protein, and artificials) 37:06 – Neely’s diet 39:06 – Chocolate 40:14 – Common symptoms that are often connected to food 44:14 – How to think about doing an elimination diet (if you are having symptoms) 47:44 – Patron question from PogoStickJoe: Efficacy from Collagen? 50:34 – Probiotics 53:48 – Neely’s nutrition coaching and program 55:22 – Neely’s surprise at the success of the TrainingBeta podcast and blog 56:56 – The early days, growing TrainingBeta, and different measures of success 1:01:31 – Balancing a business with climbing 1:02:27 – Commitment, and the entrepreneurial spirit 1:04:46 – Top lessons that Neely has learned from hosting 160+ episodes of the TrainingBeta podcast 1:07:54 – Mindset, self-improvement, and the early days of training content 1:10:31 – Some of the training exercises that helped Neely get to be her strongest ever, and wrist curls 1:14:02 – Injuries, handstands, and wrist surgery 1:16:26 – The ebbs and flows of motivation, and learning to be kinder to ourselves 1:18:23 – Imposter syndrome, and being a conduit for information 1:20:06 – ‘Tomb Raider’, and being enough 1:20:53 – Depression, comparison, and putting things in perspective 1:23:59 – Piano, music, and balancing passions 1:27:24 – Reality TV, and the Bachelorette 1:28:36 – Children vs. house 1:29:26 – Kids 1:32:36 – Willa and projecting 1:34:18 – Patron question from Howard: Favorite local gym and favorite front range crag? 1:35:32 – Rifle and the Red River Gorge 1:36:29 – Getting recognized at the crag 1:37:45 – New stuff with TrainingBeta, and adult climbing teams 1:39:56 – Gratitude 1:40:51 – Upcoming climbing trips, and closing thoughts | |||
| 13 Jun 2022 | EP 122: Jared Vagy — How to Prevent Knee, Shoulder, Elbow, and Finger Injuries as Climbers | 02:35:19 | |
Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist who specializes in climbing injury rehab and prevention. We talked about freestyle rapping, the most common injuries in rock climbing, how to prevent knee, shoulder, elbow, and finger injuries as climbers, warming up your fingers at the crag, what to do to help your body recover on rest days, and much more. Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jared-vagy Nuggets: 0:05:00 – J-Rock the hip-hop artist 0:09:58 – Running track in college and getting into climbing 0:11:25 – Getting excited about physical therapy 0:12:24 – Hip-hop parties with grandma, and applying physical therapy to his own climbing 0:14:36 – Becoming “The Climbing Doctor” and writing for DPM 0:17:22 – Overly engaging our shoulders 0:20:56 – Shoulder position for hangboarding 0:23:08 – How has climbing changed, and how climbing injuries have changed 0:26:30 – My (Steven’s) balance of climbing and training 0:28:12 – Balancing training and climbing, and seeing more injuries from training vs. climbing 0:29:33 – Most common climbing injuries (shoulders, elbows, and fingers) 0:31:42 – Exercises for preventing climbing-related knee injuries 0:42:01 – Knee exercises for drop knees 0:47:19 – How to program your knee injury prevention exercises 0:49:04 – Patron question from Tyler: Compound lifts vs. accessory exercises for injury prevention? 0:54:57 – Most common climbing-related shoulder injuries, and why shoulder injuries are difficult to diagnose 0:59:26 – Who to go to if you get a shoulder injury, and what to look for in a physical therapist 1:06:03 – Research on shoulder injuries 1:07:55 – How to prevent climbing-related shoulder injuries 1:11:58 – Resistance Band Rows, how difficult they should feel, and sets and reps 1:16:20 – Pressing exercises for the shoulders, how to fix scapular winging, and flys for elbow pain 1:24:20 – How to prevent finger injuries, hand positions on the hangboard, pockets, and finger lengths 1:29:56 – Torsion on the hangboard, and gaps between fingers 1:34:49 – The rubber band exercise for finger gaps 1:39:26 – Hangboarding as brushing your teeth 1:40:17 – Warming up your fingers for a climbing session 1:45:20 – Grab your finger and shake your elbow 1:48:04 – Warming up to raise the temperature in your hands and fingers 1:50:23 – Warming up with a portable hangboard 1:56:00 – Golfer’s Elbow, and diagnosing other sources of elbow pain 2:04:32 – Patron question from Felix: How do we know when to listen to pain, vs. ignore pain? (Graded Motor Imagery) 2:10:27 – How to diagnose PIP or DIP joint inflammation in the fingers, and recommendations for capsulitis 2:14:45 – Advice for pulley aches 2:16:21 – Patron question from Ana: Thoughts on the long-term effects of bouldering falls? 2:20:55 – Motion is lotion 2:23:07 – Patron question from Shawn: What exercises should we do on rest days to help with recovery? What should we avoid doing on rest days? 2:26:31 – Training and educating other physical therapists, and doing more research on climbers 2:30:32 – Jared’s climbing and rope soloing 2:31:40 – Wrap up | |||
| 08 Nov 2021 | EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training | 01:48:12 | |
Nathaniel Coleman is the men’s silver medalist of the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about his preparation for the games, training in a climbing sauna, the Olympic experience and winning silver, favorite root beer, Kendama as focus training, chess, why Nathaniel still practices the basics of climbing, doing the FA of ‘The Grand Illusion’ V16, and sport climbing plans. Support the Podcast: We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathaniel-coleman Nuggets: 4:30 – Garbage trucks, and a Tuesday morning in the life of Nathaniel Coleman 6:04 – What the two months following the Olympics have looked like for Nathaniel 8:20 – Finding out that climbing would be in the Olympics and having qualifying as a goal 10:44 – How Nathaniel’s goals evolved throughout the process 11:45 – Nathaniel’s mantra for combined nationals 2019, and the journey to qualifying 15:25 – How Nathaniel used his mantra, and self-belief vs. letting go of expectations 17:25 – Confidence, upbringing, and competing for himself 20:27 – The dice roll of competition 22:10 – Climbing with Kyle O’Meara, Nathaniel’s relaxed approach to training as a teenager, comparing himself to Sean Bailey, and thriving on a plan with “adequate rest” 25:50 – Balancing listening to motivation and pushing through it 26:46 – Typical training volumes for World Cup climbers 30:39 – How Nathaniel’s training to qualify for the Olympics vs. how he trained for Tokyo 34:25 – Balancing World Cups with prep for Tokyo 36:01 – Building a climbing “sauna” at the USA training center 36:15 – Getting used to climbing in the heat and humidity 40:41 – How Tokyo compared to the training sauna 43:19 – What it was like to get on the plane and fly to Tokyo 46:28 – The qualifying round in Tokyo, and realizing he made finals 52:16 – Recalibrating goals after making finals 53:48 – Finals 1:03:18 – Watching Jacob top the lead route 1:05:55 – Patron Question from Tyler: When it was all said and done, what did you think about the Olympic format? 1:08:19 – More context about the Olympic format, and Nathaniel’s thoughts on continuing to speed climb after Tokyo 1:10:35 – Great Aunt Armida 1:13:04 – Nathaniel’s Instagram posts after winning silver in Tokyo 1:14:54 – What Nathaniel’s accomplishment meant for US climbing 1:17:59 – The first and second perspective-changing events in Nathaniel’s climbing career 1:19:55 – Thoughts about hard outdoor rock climbing vs. competitions moving forward 1:21:54 – How Nathaniel balances training for outdoor routes vs. competitions, and preparing for a trip to the Red 1:24:25 – Context about ‘The Grand Illusion’ 1:25:02 – Patron Question from Nick: Do you have any plans to come back to work on the ‘Lee Majors’ extension? 1:27:34 – Patron Question from Timothy: Does Nathaniel ever see himself getting into highball bouldering or trad/big wall climbing? 1:28:54 – Thoughts on retiring from competitions (when and why) 1:30:40 – Rootbeer 1:32:58 – Kendama 1:35:55 – How Nathaniel still practicing the basics in climbing 1:38:56 – Bonz Atron (the Chris Sharma of Kendama) 1:40:18 – Chess 1:41:28 – What Nathaniel does to relax and recharge 1:42:52 – Special thanks to Josh, Zach, and Meg 1:44:44 – Excited for the Red 1:45:58 – Gratitude | |||
| 01 Mar 2021 | EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2) — Highlights From ‘9 Out of 10’, Flexible Programming, and Listener Questions | 01:50:47 | |
This is part 2 of my conversation with Dave MacLeod. We talked about key points from Dave’s book 9 Out of 10 Climbers, how he uses flexible programming to train around the weather in Scotland, his current carnivore diet experiment, and listener questions about aging, piles of eggs, disordered eating, fatherhood, Scottish climbing, and more. Support the Podcast: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-part-2 Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:04:10) – Why Dave wrote ‘9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes’ (00:11:09) – Using ‘9 out of 10’ to discover your own individual pitfalls, and why Dave has become more and more interested in lifestyle (00:15:28) – Using your climbing partners as mirrors, changing your circumstances, and the shortcut to sending your project (00:21:00) – Dave’s common pitfall—quality recovery (00:22:25) – Productivity and the value of having a home wall (00:26:30) – “Bouldering is king”, and how Dave fits indoor bouldering sessions around outdoor climbing (00:31:47) – How Dave uses flexible programing for his training (00:37:01) – Periodization as a tool for introducing variety (00:38:52) – Fingerboarding on the same day as bouldering and Dave’s thoughts on which to do first (00:40:33) – The “one-minute-per-move” rule (00:42:40) – Patron Question from Adriel: Any advice for maintaining a positive growth curve as you age? What does Dave think the upper age limit is for hitting peak performance? (00:48:23) – Dave’s take on how much protein to eat per day (00:49:39) – Dave’s current carnivore diet experiment (00:57:10) – Sport climbing on a ketogenic diet (01:07:20) – Patron Question from Charizze: How many eggs make a pile of eggs? (01:10:17) – Patron Question from Maria: How do manage the strength to weight ratio through diet, while avoiding falling down the rabbit hole of energy deficiency and/or disordered eating? (01:16:42) – Patron Question from Mike: Dave, you’re a hero, but I’ll be honest, much of the climbing in Scottland looks chossy and overgrown. What crag should a climber from the US visit to correct that misconception? (01:19:07) – What time of year is best to visit Scottland to climb, and the “24/8” (01:22:23) – Patron Question from Laurent: How do you balance fatherhood and climbing? Any secret beta for a new father who’d like to keep improving at climbing while being present in his daughter’s life? (01:25:59) – Patron Question from Eric: Any recommendations for injury-prone climbers? (01:30:50) – Favorite discipline of climbing (01:32:05) – Last meal (01:32:39) – Recommended books (01:36:24) – Advice for his 20-year-old self (01:37:26) – Advice for his 30-year-old self (01:39:52) – Defining climbing moments (01:42:14) – One of the best decisions Dave has ever made (01:42:54) – Gratitude (01:44:21) – Excited to focus on climbing | |||
| 10 Jun 2024 | EP 223: Aidan Roberts — Navigating Pro Climbing, Establishing His Two Hardest Boulders, and Glimpsing Mastery | 03:35:25 | |
Aidan Roberts returns to the podcast! Aidan is at the cutting edge of bouldering and is one of the most genuine people I’ve had the pleasure of talking to. We talk about professional climbing and today’s media landscape, and he brings us up to speed on the last year and a half of his climbing and shares the full stories of ‘Spots of Time’ and ‘Arrival of the Birds’, two new boulders proposed 9A/V17. We recorded this a couple of days after my chat with him and Sam on their podcast. I was honored to join them and I loved the conversation. Check it out for some reflections amongst the three of us about our podcasting and climbing. Watch the Video Interview: EP 223: Aidan Roberts Returns — Uncut Video Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! Check out Mad Rock! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order! The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp! Use this link for 10% off your first month! PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL! physivantage.com/discount/NUG20 Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aidan-roberts-returns Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:04:59) – Recooperation phase (00:08:18) – Powering through (00:10:24) – Course corrections (00:13:58) – Climbing as his work (00:21:45) – Enduring austerity (00:24:17) – His role as a pro climber (00:29:28) – Our relationships with climbing (00:35:54) – Navigating pro climbing (00:45:44) – Valuing integrity (00:49:11) – Climbing media & being impressionable (00:52:51) – Reflecting on experiences (01:04:23) – Aidan’s last year and a half (01:08:54) – The Midnight Project (Arrival of the Birds) (01:33:30) – Trying Burden last Fall (01:41:47) – Ticino with Shawn Raboutou (01:46:41) – Back to The Midnight Project (01:50:28) – The Helvellyn Project (Spots of Time) (02:03:39) – Training in the UK last winter (02:07:03) – Sending Spots of Time (02:08:18) – Sending Arrival of the Birds (02:30:31) – Glimpsing mastery (02:33:33) – Appreciating the places we climb (02:38:06) – Proposing grades (02:52:01) – Is Arrival of the Birds 9A+? (03:08:35) – Exhausted & reexamining eating (03:12:42) – His foot injury & next climbing steps (03:14:23) – Plans for an EXTRA (03:18:22) – An adventurous attitude (03:20:04) – Burden of Dreams (03:26:03) – Finnish bouldering (03:32:48) – Wrap up | |||
| 16 Oct 2020 | Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle — The Stories We Tell Ourselves (Teaser) | 00:18:45 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ethan Pringle. We talked about surfing, about the stories we tell ourselves about what we can and can’t do, about the biggest difference between Adam Ondra and everyone else, about Ethan’s projects in Northern California, and about my recent projects in Ten Sleep. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 51:13. | |||
| 07 Jun 2021 | EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen | 01:18:27 | |
This is part 2 of my conversation with Eric Hörst. We talked about the differences between Eric and his sons’ (Cameron and Jonathan) training plans, advice for parents who want to get their kids into climbing, how to train pinch and sloper strength, why Eric started PhysiVantage, and the importance of collagen for building stronger fingers. Discount code: “NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage products Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-part-2 Nuggets: 01:23 – Differences between Eric’s training vs. his sons, and why his sons played football 11:40 – Maintaining climbing strength during football season 15:08 – Patreon Question from Eli (advice for parents getting their kids into climbing) 21:20 – Exposing kids to a variety of climbing styles 22:53 – Patron Question from Jordan Cannon (5.14, or free climbing El Cap?), and Eric’s first 5.13c 27:53 – Another Question from Jordan (would you rather see your kids climb 5.15, or free a hard El Cap route) 32:50 – Patron Question from Gunter (how to train pinches and slopers) 39:12 – Learning from other experts and coaches 40:52 – What Eric is most excited about in training for climbing right now, and the Moonboard and other system walls as a game-changer 45:16 – Proper nutrition, PhysiVantage, and protein 50:02 – Crush 52:00 – Collagen, and vegan and whey protein 56:48 – How I think about taking supplements, and replacing beer with collagen ;) 1:01:15 – Why we should eat collagen separate from meals (when we can), and collagen vs. protein timing 1:10:42 – A life’s journey 1:14:07 – Gratitude | |||
| 11 Mar 2024 | EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy | 01:58:27 | |
Graham Zimmerman is an award-winning alpinist, writer, filmmaker, and climate advocate. We talked about his harrowing ascent of Mt. Bradley in his early 20s, getting injured in New Zealand, how his relationship with risk has evolved, losing friends in the mountains, the mystery of passion, the 100-year-plan, falling in love with his wife Shannon, getting shut down on K2 by global warming, the climate crisis, the concept of imperfect advocacy, and his new book, A Fine Line: Searching for Balance Among Mountains. Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! Watch the Video Interview: EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Uncut Video! Check out Chalk Cartel! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Tindeq! Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order! Check out KAYA! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/graham-zimmerman Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:38) – Daddy style (00:03:59) – Mt. Bradley (00:12:23) – The recipe for success (00:14:32) – How I related to the book (00:19:03) – Graham’s injury in New Zealand (00:21:54) – The Burger King story (00:24:04) – Falling for mountains (00:30:24) – The mystery of passion (00:32:07) – Mark Allen (00:40:45) – What makes alpinism hard? (00:44:04) – The logistics of mountain ascents (00:48:11) – Building a relationship with places (00:52:09) – The 100-Year Plan (00:57:48) – Shannon (01:04:06) – Compromise and purpose (01:08:30) – Getting engaged (01:16:13) – Loss and risk (01:25:58) – K2 and climate (01:34:16) – Imperfect advocacy (01:43:15) – Voting (01:50:40) – Energy and water (01:51:39) – POW (01:52:29) – Don’t stop climbing (01:54:11) – Graham’s book and EXTRA teaser | |||
| 11 Jul 2022 | S1E2: The Great Equalizer (Repost from The American Climbing Project) | 00:29:19 | |
This is my favorite episode of The American Climbing Project so far, and Devin Dabney graciously offered up the audio from his podcast so I could share it with all of you. Enjoy! Check out more episodes of ACP! And support Devin on Patreon! | |||
| 10 Jun 2021 | Follow-Up: Katie Lambert — Zebra Stripes, and the Goal to Climb 300 5.13s (Teaser) | 00:17:00 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Katie Lambert. We talked about her recent haircut, and how that led to getting her body painted for a photo shoot. We also talked about Katie’s new goal to climb 300 5.13s by the age of 50, how she has been integrating outdoor climbing with training, and how she structured her latest sport climbing trip to the Red River Gorge. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 44:54. | |||
| 24 Apr 2023 | EP 166: Will Bosi — Sending ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17, Dream Projects, and Functional Finger Strength vs. Party Tricks | 02:04:21 | |
Will Bosi is a 24-year-old climber from Scotland who has emerged as one of the best climbers in the world. This interview is hot off the press! Will made the second ascent of ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17 less than two weeks ago and joins us for a proper geek out about the send. We talked about his process of projecting the replica and the actual boulder, his feats of finger strength and where to draw the line between party tricks and useful strength, doing the second ascent of ‘Mutation’ at Raven Tor, his absolute dream project, and much more! Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp! Use this link for 10% off your first month! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products! Check out Green Chef! Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping! Check out Rumpl! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-bosi Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:05:18) – The emotions we experience after a big send, and looking for new projects in Scotland (00:07:56) – How sending Burden of Dreams has changed his self-perception, and the style of hard project that Will is searching for (00:10:53) – Being from Scotland and currently based in Sheffield (00:12:17) – Following Will’s journey trying the replica with Aidan and Stefano, live streams from Finland, and taking seven years for Burden to get repeated (00:15:38) – Mutation continuing to go unrepeated again after Will did it (00:17:23) – Is Will the first person to have climbed V17 and 5.15c? (9A boulder and 9b+ sport) (00:20:07) – Will’s first time trying the Burden replica in Aidan’s shed (00:23:32) – Will’s thoughts on Shawn’s progress on Burden (00:25:10) – The warmup game on Burden, and the last move (00:30:16) – Will’s standard training session, and what his process looked like training on the Bruden replica (00:33:45) – Doing the first move 5 times in a session, and feeling stronger every session (00:36:26) – How similar the replica is to the actual boulder, and what surprised Will the most when he tried Burden (00:41:12) – How Will’s beta compared to Nalle’s, and the heal hook beta (00:46:17) – What a full session looked like on the replica, and how that compared to a session on the actual boulder (00:51:28) – His skin when he sent the boulder, feeling strongest on his first try of the day, and the send (00:54:48) – How long a pair of shoes lasts on the boulder (00:57:33) – Will’s shoe selection for Burden, and struggling with the second move (00:58:53) – The pulley setup on the replica, comparing it to Katie Lamb’s experience on Spectre, and the usefulness of power spots (01:08:50) – Will replicas change the way we think about flashing boulders? (01:12:03) – The future of replica training, and the Alphane replica in Aidan’s shed (01:15:35) – Will’s thoughts on the grades of Burden, Alphane, and his FA Honey Badger (01:26:27) – Will’s feats of finger strength on the hangboard (01:30:57) – Where is the line between party tricks vs. functional finger strength? (01:34:21) – A breakdown of Mutation 9a+/b (01:38:24) – Bigger edge training vs. micros (01:40:52) – How often throughout the year Will does his go-to style of training session, and building volume vs. intensity (01:46:28) – Will’s absolute dream in climbing, and his experience on Excalibur 5.15c (9b+) (01:49:10) – Breakdown of the moves on Excalibur (01:52:21) – What’s next for Will, and potential plans for the summer (01:53:59) – Will’s thoughts on endurance training, and his story of sending Estado Critico 9a (01:55:13) – Being more thoughtful about your climbing (01:57:17) – Feeling excited to relax and chill, and plans to release a film of Burden (01:58:22) – Subscribe to Will’s YouTube channel for send footage! | |||
| 21 Oct 2024 | EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits | 01:38:47 | |
Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition, training for 5.15 on a 3-meter spray wall, how signing with Red Bull changed his life, why we climb, what he learned from Patxi Usobiaga, his new film Tropical Lines, climbing hotspots in South America, his current projects, and much more. Become a Patron: Chalk Cartel: Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order. PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. Mad Rock: Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Crimpd: Or download the Crimpd app for free!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/felipe-camargo Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:17) – Felipe’s intro to climbing (00:03:43) – Training on a small spray wall (00:05:54) – Ultimate Beastmaster (00:08:53) – Becoming the first South American to climb 9b (00:12:35) – Selling soda to fund his first competition (00:14:42) – World Championships in Spain (00:16:17) – Early sponsorships & traveling (00:19:57) – Signing with Red Bull & TNF (00:25:45) – Representing South America (00:26:56) – Papichulo 9a+ (5.15a) (00:28:33) – Goal oriented (00:34:20) – “Why do we do this?” (00:40:30) – Gancho Perfecto 9a+ (5.15a) (00:41:46) – Full Journey & Perfecto Mundo (00:44:20) – Training on a spray wall (00:47:44) – Learning from Patxi Usobiaga (00:50:56) – Being smarter with training (00:54:29) – When to specialize (00:57:22) – Felipe’s training as a kid (00:59:48) – Tropical Lines (01:08:28) – Climbing conditions in Brazil (01:10:26) – Crags in Brazil (01:14:32) – Hotspots in South America (01:17:36) – More about Tropical Lines (01:19:20) – Auto Retrato 9a+ (01:21:05) – The Grand Illusion V16 (01:25:29) – Full Journey 9b (5.15b) (01:27:40) – El Bon Combat 9b (5.15b) (01:28:23) – Endurance on the Moonboard (01:33:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser | |||
| 20 Apr 2020 | EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project | 01:57:33 | |
Jonathan Siegrist is a professional rock climber, and one of the most prolific sport climbers in the world. We talked about the evolution of his training, how he trained to climb 5.15b, current training methods, how he mixes in climbing with training, tactics for quick redpointing, a new direction for his climbing, and The Fins project. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jonathan-siegrist Nuggets: 3:31 – Breakfast, how Jonathan eats on a climbing day, favorite bars, and eating the local cuisine when traveling 8:38 – Training for the Red by climbing on campus rungs on the treadwall (while wearing socks) 13:21 – Jonathan’s training evolution, and sending ‘Jumbo Love’ 18:18 – Current training methodology (broad strokes), working with Steve Bechtel, and adding more rest between sets and training days 21:21 – Carving out more time for the same number of training sessions 22:35 – Jonathan’s three favorite strength exercises (not related to finger strength) 26:46 – More about weighted pull-ups and how Jonathan generally programs and advances his training 29:19 – Combining heavy sets with plyometrics, and taking 10-15 minute rest between sets 30:56 – Circuit style hangboarding vs. straight sets 32:48 – 7:13 repeaters, why Jonathan now prefers them over 7:3, trying new things, and thinking about trying max hangs in the future 37:19 – How Jonathan integrates outdoor climbing with training and the benefits of combining the two 42:00 – Sending ‘One Hundred Proof’, and shifting focus to prioritize redpoint days 44:09 – Why Jonathan doesn’t do any maintenance training, and the importance of trying hard 47:36 – Jonathan’s propensity toward endurance, and the one thing he would do different if he could go back in time 49:47 – How Jonathan thinks about strength and power training vs. bouldering 50:36 – Sending ’Trice’ back in 2009, learning to climb at flagstaff, and testing well at finger strength but not knowing how to move fast 55:09 – “The magic of climbing”, how Jonathan stacks up against other 9b climbers and prioritizing sending 57:58 – Climbing with Adam Ondra and inspiration to focus more on flash and onsight climbing 1:02:43 – Jonathan’s approach to second-go redpointing, his affinity for remembering beta, and removing hesitation 1:04:49 – Jonathan’s spray wall drill to practice memorizing sequences, and how he uses visualization 1:08:42 – How Jonathan thinks about deciding between second-go redpointing vs. flash or onsight 1:11:36 – Leveling up, hopes to return to old crags to finish old projects, and Jonathan’s desire to (eventually) move away from sport climbing 1:18:14 – Multipitch sport climbing, and “the single coolest thing” Jonathan hopes to do with his climbing 1:19:33 – Trying the Dawn Wall with Tommy, and why Yosemite big wall climbing isn’t at the top of his list 1:21:34 – The Fins project 1:28:51 – Experimenting with techniques to combat dry skin and dry conditions, wet chalk, and Rhino Spit 1:31:52 – “Do you think that thing will be 15b?”, the polarizing crux of Algorithm, and Jonathan’s best try 1:34:08 – Establishing 5.15b in America and what makes that so hard (aside from it being hard…) 1:36:00 – Plans to head back up to The Fins 1:36:27 – Jonathan’s upcoming trip to Italy, plans to try Lapsus, and the coronavirus 1:40:09 – Why Jonathan is so grateful for his sponsors and how they have really stepped up to support him, and the Metolius Light Rail 1:43:58 – Writing, how his blog got hijacked and moving from jstarinorbit to jonathansiegrist.com, plans to write new content, and writing blogs for his brands 1:46:54 – Jonathan on Instagram and Twitter, his new YouTube channel, and plans for upcoming videos with EpicTV 1:49:17 – The Fins project video (WIP) 1:50:35 – What Jonathan thinks holds back most climbers, and trying to spend 75% of your time climbing (on rock) and only 25% training (or climbing inside) 1:53:11 – “Try hard.” 1:53:58 – My poster of Jonathan, and being an inspiration as the best thing Jonathan feels like he can ask for | |||
| 25 May 2020 | EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System | 00:44:56 | |
This is part 2 of my conversation with Mikey Schaefer. We talked about climbing as a finite resource, footwear for big walls, rope tricks, Mikey’s “fix and follow” system for team-free ascents, climbing smarter, what Mikey is grateful for, and his refreshing perspective about COVID. You can find part 1 of our conversation in episode 18. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mikey-schaefer-part-2 Nuggets: 1:31 – Climbing ‘Moonlight Buttress’ in his 20s, 30s, and 40s 4:09 – Moonlight getting easier, wearing out climbs, being mindful of the impact we have on climbs and climbing areas, and Mikey’s advocate “rant” 10:06 – How Mikey thinks about footwear, and being smarter (as well as stronger) 16:27 – Tommy Caldwell as a one-show-size climber, and how Mikey chose his shoes for ‘ Moonlight Buttress’ 18:45 – Compression socks, warmup up in socks and TC Pros, climbing in approach shoes, and developing footwork by climbing in shittier shoes 22:53 – Tinkering with systems, “It’s easier to climb smarter than it is to get stronger”, weighing gear with a gram scale, and measuring the force of different top rope systems 27:18 – “Friends don’t let friends belay”, Mikey’s “fix and follow” system, and leading in blocks 34:56 – Grateful for financial security, Mikey’s grandfather held captive, and a refreshing perspective on COVID 41:01 – Why Mikey feels content with where he’s at, plans to continue moving the spiral upward, and continuing to be a jack of all trades | |||
| 13 Feb 2023 | EP 156: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Sport Climbing Trip | 00:56:19 | |
Fundamentals (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3 of this series, Jesse and I discuss tips and pitfalls for going on a sport climbing trip. Whether you are a weekend warrior, planning your first-ever sport climbing trip, or a seasoned veteran, we hope this episode will help you send your dream routes and enjoy your climbing along the way. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode:
Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out LMNT! Use this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-3 Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:29) – The worst sport climbing I’ve been on, destroying my rental car, and having too high of expectations (00:09:16) – Jesse’s experiences making weekend trips to Smith Rock (00:10:29) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Have a good partner or crew (00:11:38) – Steven’s Tip #1: Try to sport climb as much as possible leading up to the sport climbing trip (00:13:12) – My trip to Rifle in 2018, and why it was successful (00:14:30) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Prioritize the right skills before the trip (00:15:30) – Jesse’s endurance/money analogy (00:16:14) – A tip for how to practice and train for sport climbing on a spray wall (00:18:38) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Be mindful of crag’s ethics and history when you travel to a new sport climbing crag (00:19:48) – Steven’s Tip #2: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you have (00:22:27) – Steven’s Tip #3: Be intentional with what routes you try (00:23:21) – Bonus Tip: Leave the ground with purpose (00:23:57) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Think about links on your project as their own goal (00:25:40) – Steven’s Tip #4: Have a goal or an intention for every try (00:27:29) – Jesse’s Tip #5: Dial in your snack game (00:29:02) – Steven’s Tip #5: Do mileage, or try something that is hard for you, but don’t try to do both (00:31:59) – Bonus Tip: If you are a boulderer primarily, be open-minded and give the routes time to grow on you 0:31:50 – The sunk cost fallacy, being okay with recon tries, and why you’ll probably get better at sport climbing over time (00:38:35) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Not having the right clothing layers (00:40:47) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not being specific enough with preparation before the trip (00:43:19) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Getting redpoint blinders (00:45:45) – The value of not trying your project on the last day of your trip (00:48:11) – Some thoughts and tips related to onsighting (00:50:10) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Letting the group derail your plans and keep you in your comfort zone (00:51:31) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not discussing your plans and intentions with your partner before the trip (00:52:10) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Having too high of expectations (00:53:55) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Endurance is important, but it’s secondary to actual sport climbing skills (00:54:25) – Steven’s Top Tip: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you really have, and make your tries count | |||
| 15 Jun 2020 | EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity | 01:55:03 | |
Justin Brown is the founder of Rhino Skin Solutions, a company that provides high-performance skincare products for rock climbers. We talked about best practices for skincare, tips for dialing skin for different rock types, how to grow a business while keeping things simple, and the connection between greatness and insanity. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justin-brown Nuggets: 2:23 – The COVID pivot, hand sanitizer, and the restaurant hustle 5:48 – Whole Foods, the Rhino growth trajectory, and growing to make a better product 9:50 – How to fix product that has separated 11:30 – Hand Sanitizer for greasy hands and dirty climbers 13:52 – Best practices for healing dry skin 17:24 – Dry/Performance plus Spit for dry and pliable skin, removing sweating as a factor, and different skin for different rock types 19:32 – How to use Rhino Spit 20:39 – Justin’s skincare routine leading up to a climbing trip 24:02 – Combining using Performance and Repair, and best practice for antiperspirant use 26:28 – Training your brain to sweat less and taking a break from using products once a month 30:35 – Tegaderm and Hypafix for splits and gobies 34:34 – Better climbing tapes 36:48 – Filing old shoe rubber, shoe cleaning products, and OXY Pads 41:48 – The early days of Rhino, and why Justin 46:21 – A simple business model and growing organically 49:08 – Growing vs. profitability, putting systems in place, not wanting cogs, and the label machine 54:51 – Work-life balance, getting an employee, and freeing up time 58:40 – Getting hurt climbing, starting MMA, getting in the best shape of his life, and the heart monitor story 1:03:58 – Training for MMA and carryover to rock climbing 1:06:21 – Justin’s standing in jiu-jitsu and converting belt rankings to the Yosemite Decimal System 1:08:05 – Mixing MMA and climbing, a pesky wrist injury, and climbing because it’s fun 1:10:56 – Greatness and insanity, and different limiters on crazy 1:12:27 – Steven’s thoughts on limiters, how limiters shift, and waking up early to hangboard 1:14:38 – Exceeding climbing goals, the gratification of improving at something new, and the myth of discipline 1:17:06 – How each route at Smith leads to the next, and progressing through the 5.13s 1:21:12 – Justin’s approach to climbing ‘Badman’ (his first 5.14), and dealing with shoulder impingement 1:25:25 – Carryover from jiu-jitsu to rock climbing 1:28:49 – Carryover from rock climbing to jiu-jitsu, projecting sequences, and foot matches 1:32:18 – Climbing 5.14 again, goal routes, and climbing the hardest route from the year you were born 1:35:33 – Justin’s (secret) Shuteye Ridge trip 1:37:29 – Gratitude for family and his sister’s illness 1:40:48 – My experience with van life during COVID-19, being in stasis, why Justin craves going out to eat, and restaurant energy 1:46:14 – Rye sourdough mango pancakes 1:47:02 – High-4 (Justin’s new company for pet care) 1:50:20 – New Rhino products (coming soon) 1:52:23 – Where to connect with Rhino for skincare questions 1:53:10 – One last story | |||
| 20 Feb 2023 | EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast | 01:51:37 | |
Jeannie Wall (aka “The Energizer Bunny”) is a world-class skier, life-long mountain athlete, and obsessed climber. She cofounded Broad Beta to cultivate a community for women and genderqueer folks to share their stories of outdoor adventures in the mountains. We talked about lessons from her upbringing, the importance of partnerships and mentorship in climbing, slowing down to go fast, engaging with the edge of our comfort zone, ordinary people doing extraordinary things, and much more! Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jeannie-wall Nuggets: 0:08:38 – Overview of our conversation, and growing up as the youngest of 11 children 0:14:22 – Baggage and benefits from her upbringing, and being competitive as a racer 0:16:52 – The chapter of life that Jeannie is in now, and learning patience 0:19:22 – Competing at the Olympic Trials for nordic skiing, and why she doesn’t miss competing and racing 0:23:58 – Shifting toward climbing, and how she has changed in her 50s 0:25:38 – Examples of people climbing hard in their 60s, and Jeannie’s hut ski trip 0:28:07 – Why Jeannie finally got hooked on climbing 0:34:12 – Getting Swine Flu, dealing with chronic fatigue for two years, and finding a different path in climbing 0:36:14 – “If you wanna go fast, you have to go slow most of the time.” 0:41:31 – How media influences us in climbing, and giving the last 10% to be excellent at something 0:47:02 – My inner tension with bouldering, the role of mentorship, and Jeannie’s story of climbing Fitz Roy 0:54:42 – Challenge and risk as key parts of the human experience 1:01:18 – “If we’re not learning are we really happy?” 1:05:25 – Engaging with the edge of our comfort zone 1:07:13 – The pressure to be someone other than who you are 1:12:33 – The value of pursuing your passion 1:15:05 – Wildness, and why Jeannie and Leslie started Broad Beta 1:24:20 – Heroes, looking at the whole person, and the stories of ordinary people doing extraordinary things 1:28:42 – Why stories are so powerful 1:33:02 – Sharing the whole story, and Jeannie’s menopause article 1:38:09 – Jeannie’s vision for Broad Beta 1:45:12 – Where to find Broad Beta 1:47:10 – Wrap up and final questions | |||
| 05 Jul 2023 | EP 175: Ady Wright — The Pressure of Opportunity, Acts of Rebellion, and Eating Oreos for Breakfast | 02:40:31 | |
Ady Wright is a climbing instructor and routesetter based in New York. We met up in Red Rock and recorded a nice long chat in the van, covering her introduction to climbing and routesetting, why she pivoted from veterinary science, being raised by a cautious father, analyzing risk, the benefits of meal prepping, losing her grandmother to cancer, the pressure that comes with opportunity, the rebellious act of existing, and much more! Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out AG1! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Rumpl! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! Check out Rocky Talkie! Use this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ady-wright Nuggets: 0:03:56 – Ady’s breakfast, and serendipitous timing 0:05:56 – Ady’s first vacation, and how an outdoor climbing trip fuels routesetting 0:13:04 – Her head setter Ryan, and earning her stripes 0:18:16 – Learning to set above her level, the complexity of grades, and setting boulders vs. routes 0:24:32 – Studying veterinary science, wanting to be a zoo veterinarian, and pivoting to be a full-time climber 0:33:03 – Being the first in her family to do many things 0:36:58 – Going camping for the first time, and a reminder of how recent slavery was in this country 0:40:56 – Going with the flow, and everything in moderation 0:44:45 – The benefits of meal prepping 0:46:02 – Being hard on herself, and sharing experiences with people that look like her 0:49:53 – My conversation with Brittany Leavitt, travel safety, and where the feeling of not doing enough comes from 0:54:24 – The pressure that comes with opportunity 0:59:22 – Losing her grandmother to cancer, and crying for the things she didn’t get to have 1:01:01 – The influence Ady hopes to have on the routesetting industry, and how being cautious has saved her 1:06:06 – Privilege layers, and needing to talk with people to actually know them 1:09:29 – Writing novels and producing music 1:10:57 – Mom 1:19:00 – A question from Marie-Louise: When Ady climbs, is she in her body or is it more of an out-of-body experience? 1:24:11 – Who inspires Ady in climbing and routesetting 1:28:17 – Ady’s goal to make routsetting more accessible 1:31:20 – Ady’s climbing goals, and her style 1:34:32 – Being intimidated by overhangs 1:35:57 – Immersing in a specific style 1:37:40 – Lifting weights, and the 3 pieces of advice Ady got from Tyson Schoene 1:41:15 – The exercise that helped Ady with her elbow tendonitis 1:46:50 – Gymnast tension, and the yin and yang of climbing 1:48:26 – PT Day, splits, and recovery 1:52:06 – “It’s really expensive to be a great athlete”, and running from coyotes 1:54:23 – Thoughts on sponsorship 1:58:08 – Stories of walking in New York City 2:01:00 – Being in the shelter system for a year 2:06:38 – Loving most of New York 2:09:18 – What frustrates Ady 2:13:39 – Feeling hopeful and falling in love with people 2:17:07 – Skateboarding 2:19:50 – Getting mentorship from Sam Elias, and learning from each climb 2:24:47 – Practice makes better 2:29:38 – Believe and validate 2:32:58 – The clubhouse | |||
| 29 Mar 2022 | Follow-Up: Steve McClure — Sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, Projecting Tips, and How to Enjoy a Long Life of Climbing (Teaser) | 00:34:31 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Steve McClure. We talked about highlights from the past year since our first interview, sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, takeaways from critical and peak force testing with the Lattice Team, tips for breaking through plateaus on a hard project, how to enjoy a long life of climbing, and what it means to “cook tea” in England. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:40:26. Steve’s Original Episode: | |||
| 31 Aug 2020 | EP 33: Mike Kerzhner — El Cap’s ‘PreMuir’, Emigrating from Russia, and Discipline vs. Necessity | 01:44:58 | |
Mike Kerzhner is a software engineer, an accomplished Yosemite climber, and an impressive all-rounder. We talked about growing up climbing and competing in Russia, moving to the States and climbing at the Red River Gorge, his path to trad and big wall climbing, free climbing El Cap, writing, poetry, speaking Russian, and discipline born out of necessity. Support on Patreon: Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mike-kerzhner Nuggets: 2:05 – Savory oats 3:33 – “Eat, then sleep, then climb.” 4:05 – Big wall food, water weight, and radishes 6:13 – PerMuir, corners, and send cookies 9:04 – Excerpt from Mike’s writeup on the PreMuir, and writing 10:59 – Mike’s internal conflict with social media and sharing about experiences 12:20 – Patron Question: How does Mike contrast computer-heavy career choices with a lack of digital presence? 13:45 – Early climbing and competing in Russia 20:37 – Moving to the states, the EBS competition scene, reckless biking, and getting beat by his younger brother 24:26 – Transitioning from a gym kid to a Red/New River Gorge kid 28:36 – Traveling out West from the Red 29:44 – Why Mike switched from La Sportiva to Scarpa, and getting his shoe-game dialed 33:16 – Going to Stanford, taking a year off of climbing (to drink beer), trad climbing, and ripping a pitch on ‘Romantic Warrior’ 39:39 – Climbing ‘Astroman’ with Chicken Pox, getting benighted, and descending in broken flip flops 41:07 – Jailhouse, balancing climbing with drinking, and getting psyched in Bishop 43:10 – Mike’s transition back to trad climbing 46:47 – Mike’s climbing philosophy 48:26 – ‘The Rostrum’, offwidths, and the ‘Freerider’ 54:08 – Two-day ascents, ‘Golden Gate’, and making it happen with work constraints 56:14 – Try-hard mode, and screaming 59:41 – Stemming corners, and why Mike struggle with the “medium” 5.12 and 5.13- climbing on big walls 1:03:07 – PreMuir excerpt #2, and what Mike learned from Sam about skill and analysis 1:08:28 – The professional mindset, and learning more by getting on harder climbs 1:09:30 – Mike’s pet peeve, and aspirations 1:10:30 – Chaos and anxiety 1:12:42 – Discipline vs. necessity 1:17:27 – How Mike feels at age 33 (and a half) 1:18:41 – Mike’s experience with the Lattice Training Assessment, 12c finger strength, and climbing V13 1:23:37 – What climbing is for Mike, and why he sucks at training 1:24:43 – Patron Question: The Red vs. the New? 1:25:26 – Summersville dam 1:27:21 – The New 1:27:52 – Patron Question: Favorite sector at the Red? The New? 1:28:55 – Patron Question: Climbing heroes? 1:29:59 – Poems 1:31:14 – Lunch (in Russian), baking bread, and speaking Russian 1:33:52 – The man with no arms, growing up in a starved Russia, and a lot to be grateful for 1:35:27 – The Salathe Headwall, Just Do It, and hanging up the boots 1:38:44 – Plans with Nathan Hadley, route development, learning from others, and surviving ‘Vanishing Point’ 1:41:42 – PreMuir excerpt #3 | |||