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How Fitting: design a slow fashion business that fits (Alison Hoenes | women's apparel patternmaker)

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16 Jan 2024The Intimate Details of Lingerie Design And Start-Up Life with Kristen Anderson of KRSTN NDRSN and Iteration00:55:47

In episode 85, design agency founder and intimate apparel brand co-founder Kristen Anderson reveals the inner workings of the lingerie and swim industry. Kristen speaks from her experience as an in-house designer, freelancer, intimate apparel design agency owner of KRSTN NDRSN, and co-founder of the intimates brand Iteration sharing the lessons she’s learned and the new innovations she’s excited about.

Kristen has been designing apparel for over 13 years and has built a strong reputation for her innovative products, technical and fit expertise, and deep understanding of the end user. Her wide-ranging design skills have been sought out by powerhouse brands and fast-growing start-ups such as Adore Me, Sheertex, Knickey, Lane Bryant, and Victoria's Secret. Kristen currently runs KRSTN NDRSN LLC, an intimate + swimwear design studio started in 2019, designing and developing garments for DTC start-ups, VC-funded brands, and independent labels.

As the founder and CEO of iteration, an apparel brand started by Kristen, she aims to leverage her intimate knowledge of apparel design, fit, and functionality to create better-made, more sustainable garments from conception to customer. Her extensive industry experience in intimates has allowed her to identify critical gaps in the market and opportunities to introduce innovative solutions. Kristen is passionate about sustainable fashion, thoughtfully engineered design, and constantly improving and enhancing the entire customer experience. She believes there is an opportunity to do better for the customer, the planet, and the factories. 

Kristen was the first designer hired at Adore Me, where she contributed to a team that increased sales from $5 million in 2013 to nearly $84 million by 2016. During Kristen's tenure at Adore Me, it was the fastest-growing lingerie start-up in the United States. From 2016 to 2019, Kristen was the lead swimwear designer at SwimUSA. Kristen's career started in 2010 at Bennett & Company, where she worked on the Lane Bryant, Victoria's Secret, and Hanes brands. She earned her BS degree studying Design and Merchandising at Framingham State University, where she graduated with honors. She won the Young Alumni Achievement Award from FSU in 2016 and was accepted into the Project Entrepreneur program by UBS and Rent the Runway in 2018.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Kristen got into the intimates, lingerie, and swim niche
  • Kristen’s perspective on the industry having held in-house, freelance, and brand founder roles in her career.
  • Why her first brand never launched
  • The benefits of an outside perspective
  • How Kristen and her co-founder have co-created their brand, Iteration’s, products with a community of customers
  • The biggest lingerie pain points Kristen hears from women
  • The software that is inspiring Kristen's designs and business right now
  • The expensive lesson Kristen and her co-founder learned while visiting a factory in Sri Lanka
  • The speed of start-up life and why the direction actually matters more

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

30 Jan 2024The Future of On-Demand Production with Kirby Best of Bespoke Manufacturing Company00:51:52

In episode 86, Kirby Best, the CEO & President of the innovative on-demand factory Bespoke Manufacturing Company, talks about what on-demand production is and what it means for the future of fashion. Learn the pros and cons of an on-demand model and how to know if it is a good fit for your fashion business.

Kirby is currently the President & CEO of BMC.Fashion, iCreate.Fashion, and 3100 West.

His main focus is on creating value to the customer through "on-demand" and fully customizable products using the finest technical material possible.

He is the past President & CEO of Lightning Source Inc. the world's largest digital print-on-demand book manufacturer, and a division of Ingram Industries.

Kirby was the founder and CEO of Royal Book Manufacturing - a company that optimized the book manufacturing process for speed, efficiency, and cost.  Kirby has served on several Boards including the BMI (Book Manufacturers Institute). He has written articles for trade journals, published several books and spoken at industry shows worldwide on the future trends in the manufacturing and information analysis industries.

Prior to his business career he represented Canada in many World Championships. He was the driver of Canada 1 - the four man bobsled and skied on the biathlon, speed and freestyle skiing teams for Canada.

Mountain Biking, Road Biking, Soaring and Polo are his top four sports today. He has four sons - all of which enjoy challenging him at everything!

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • What on-demand production is and how it is different from the traditional production model
  • The benefits and downsides of on-demand production
  • What an on-demand production model can look like as a brand grows and scales
  • The type of products that are the best fit for BMC’s Phoenix plant
  • How the role of a designer might shift with widespread adoption of an on-demand production model
  • The costs of on-demand manufacturing versus traditional bulk production
  • The high-tech systems that BMC uses and the human roles that technology cannot replace
  • The lessons they learned from their first factory that have improved BMC’s Phoenix plant
  • The best way to prepare to work with BMC
  • Kirby’s outlook on the future of the fashion industry

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

13 Feb 2024Making Fashion Fit Your Way with Rivky Itzkowitz of Impact Fashion00:57:32

In episode 87, life-long lover of fashion and modest dresser, Rivky Itzkowitz, shares how she makes fashion work for her and other women like her through her brand Impact Fashion. Rivky seamlessly weaves her Orthodox Jewish values, skillful design and patternmaking, and fashion sense into each piece for sizes 2-28. 

Rivky Itzkowitz is a fashion designer living in NYC. As a practicing Orthodox Jew, she was frustrated at not being able to find modest clothes that actually fit, so she set out to create her own. Her company, Impact Fashion, is among the only size-inclusive modest fashion lines on the market. Every style is fitted to perfection and is available in sizes 2-28 because there’s no reason why it shouldn’t be. She is also the host of the Be Impactful Podcast where she sits down with the women making a difference in their own corners of the world. You can find her @impact.fashion.nyc and see all of her designs on impactfashionnyc.com. Listen to the Be Impactful Podcast wherever you get your podcasts.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Rivky has always her love of fashion fit her personal values
  • The real cost of offering inclusive sizes (hint: it’s not what you’d think)
  • Why good design and good fit require caring for bodies of all shapes and sizes
  • The insights Rivky gained from working as a seamstress doing alterations
  • How Rivky chose her business name - and why the name is not actually that important
  • The three values that Impact Fashion is built on
  • How Rivky developed the inclusive size chart for Impact Fashion
  • The reasons why Impact Fashion switched from being a wholesale line to selling only retail
  • How Rivky structures her days to get everything done
  • Why Rivky started her podcast, Be Impactful, and the results she’s seen after 200+ episodes

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

27 Feb 2024How To Source Fabrics As An Independent Designer with Jay Arbetman of The Sourcing District00:54:52

In episode 88, textile sourcing rep Jay Arbetman of The Sourcing District walks us through how to source wholesale fabric for your independent fashion brand - even in low quantities. Jay shares insights on fabric quality, sustainable fibers, and how to not spend months on your fabric search. With decades in the business, Jay knows what questions designers should ask and what has helped his longest-standing clients be so successful.

Jay has been in the garment and textile business since he was a teen. He spent the 1980's in NYC selling to department stores and specialty stores throughout the country. When he stopped making apparel, he started selling buttons and zippers and eventually morphed into fabric. He now represents 10 suppliers and sells to indie designers throughout the country.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why fashion brands should never buy fabric at retail stores
  • What makes the suppliers Jay represents ideal for independent designers
  • What designers need to have prepared before talking to a sourcing rep
  • How to source fabrics in-person, over the phone, and at trade shows
  • How to not spend months on your fabric search
  • The questions Jay wishes designers would ask
  • Do you get what you pay for when it comes to fabric?
  • The cost of made in the USA textiles
  • What MOQs and timeline to expect for sampling and production
  • What differentiates successful designers in the long run
  • What is new in sustainable textiles 

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up to the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

12 Mar 2024Resortwear That Benefits The Natural World with Janet St Cyr & Diana Kerins of Bambina Swim00:54:12

In episode 89, hear how Janet St Cyr & Diana Kerins have created a swim and resort brand inspired by nature and travel. Learn what this mother-daughter partnership did to land a dream collaboration with a luxury resort and how they are growing their business slowly and steadily.

Bambina is a women’s swim and resortwear brand owned and operated by mother-daughter duo Janet St Cyr and Diana Kerins. Their creations blend bold, vibrant aesthetics with unparalleled comfort to ignite confidence and happiness in those who wear them.

They’re committed to keeping production right here in the USA and their collections are sewn at a women-owned factory in the heart of New York City’s garment district.  From how they source materials to how they manufacture and package their products, they’re always learning and seeking out the most Earth-friendly ways to bring their collections to you. 

Bambina’s new resortwear launch for Summer ‘24 - The  Cardamom Collection, includes a beachwear robe and sarong featuring a custom print inspired by the endangered species of the Cardamom Rainforest in Cambodia. A percentage of proceeds from every sale will go towards The Wildlife Alliance to protect these beautiful and vulnerable creatures.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How nature, the environment, and travel inspire Bambina Swim collections
  • What it is like working as a remote mother-daughter partnership
  • Why Bambina business started out sporadic and what changed for Janet and Diana to take it more seriously
  • What Janet and Diana look for and design in a quality garment
  • Why Janet and Diana are intentionally growing the business slowly
  • How Bambina gets its funding
  • How Janet and Diana landed a collaboration with a luxury resort to stock their recent collection
  • What Diana and Janet’s goals are for the future of Bambina

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

  • Get 10% off at bambinaswim.com with code: HOWFITTING
  • Bambina Swim website
  • Bambina Swim Instagram

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up to the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

26 Mar 2024Prioritizing Customer Research and Values To Shape A Modest Activewear Brand with Aja Cohen of Transcendent Active00:51:16

In episode 90, hear how Aja Cohen left her big corporate fashion career for a lifestyle - and fashion business - that put relationships and her values first. Transcendent Active is helping women embrace who they are and move confidently toward their goals. Her modest activewear designs aren’t just covering, but also comfortable, sustainable, and functional and are worn by more than just the modest community.

After designing fast fashion for over a decade, Aja Cohen launched an activewear brand for the woman she believed was not being spoken to in the marketplace - the modest woman.  At the time, she struggled to find modest activewear pieces that weren’t made of heavy, non-breathable fabrics or couldn’t wick sweat away properly. More importantly, she couldn't find brands that matched her strong ethical values of sustainability and locally made.  She knew there had to be a better option for women who wanted to workout, do good for Mother Earth, and honor their religious values.  Transcendent Active was born at the height of the Covid pandemic and combines eco-conscious fashion with strong ethical values.  Made in America from recycled plastic water bottles, the brand is committed to providing women of all faiths and sizes with high-quality, sustainable activewear. The signature All Day Active collection includes skirts, exercise dresses, quarter-sleeve tops, leggings, and bike shorts. Transcendent Active believes every woman deserves clothing that supports her lifestyle and faith while fostering confidence and style through movement.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The positives and negatives of Aja’s corporate career in activewear design
  • Why knowing your customer is so important
  • How Aja has built a healthy business without selling on Amazon or manufacturing overseas
  • Why the pandemic was actually a great time to start a business for Aja
  • How Aja cultivates real connections and relationships with the people she works with
  • How Aja decides her priorities and delegates the work to get it done
  • How Aja approaches the difficult decisions of hiring and firing
  • How customer research has shaped Transcendent Active’s collection
  • Transcendent Active’s sustainability efforts
  • How to stay focused on your values

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up to the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

09 Apr 2024Taking The Stage Boldly For Inclusive, Slow Fashion with Suzanne Vinnik of By Vinnik00:56:56

In episode 91, hear how former opera singer Suzanne Vinnik designs bold, inclusive fashions that make women “feel seen” and encourage them to take up space for who they are. Knowing first hand what it is like to be exploited working in the arts, Suzanne runs her business differently. Her secret to success both on and off the stage is prioritizing community and personal relationships and paying everyone she works with living wages.

Suzanne Vinnik, a distinguished figure in both classical music and the fashion world, boasts a richly diverse career path. Originally traveling the world as an opera singer, Suzanne performed at renowned venues such as Carnegie Hall, Lincoln Center, and notable opera houses across Europe, Russia, Norway and the United States. As a leading soprano, some of her favorite operas included "Manon Lescaut," Nedda in "Pagliacci," Mimi and Musetta"La bohème," and Violetta "La traviata," captivating audiences with her emotive performances.

Parallel to her operatic endeavors, Suzanne embarked on entrepreneurial ventures, founding Shoperatic, a pioneering social media network and marketplace tailored for women in classical music. This platform served as a hub for artists to connect, collaborate, and showcase their talents, solidifying Suzanne's reputation as an innovator within the industry. Users could buy, rent, sell and promote their outside skills. 

Driven by her passion for fashion and a commitment to inclusivity, Suzanne transitioned seamlessly into the realm of design, launching "byVINNIK," a luxury womenswear brand celebrated for its size-inclusive ethos and ethically manufactured garments. Based in the heart of Los Angeles, Suzanne's designs have graced the frames of Classical Music luminaries, Broadway stars, and prominent figures in television and film. 

The impact of Suzanne's creations extends beyond the realm of entertainment, with her designs featured prominently on platforms like Disney+, Netflix, and HBOMax's acclaimed series "The White Lotus," on Jennifer Coolidge earning recognition with an Emmy nomination for Outstanding Contemporary Costumes. Her work frequently adorns red carpets, editorial spreads, and stages worldwide, embodying a fusion of sophistication, elegance, and inclusivity.

Suzanne holds a Bachelor of Music in Vocal Performance from Texas Christian University, supplemented by studies at prestigious institutions such as Mannes College of Music and Otis College of Design. She further honed her craft at the Opera Studio of Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia in Rome, mentored by the late Renata Scotto, and as an Administration Fellow at The Dallas Opera's Hart Institute for Women Conductors.

Beyond her artistic pursuits, Suzanne is a passionate advocate for entrepreneurship, ethical manufacturing practices, and classical music education. Her expertise as a textile connoisseur, style forecaster, and classical music aficionado has positioned her as a sought-after keynote speaker at conferences, and universities, and as an expert for popular TV Shows like Today Show and Access Hollywood. Through her inspiring journey from opera singer to fashion designer, Suzanne empowers women of all backgrounds to embrace their confidence and individuality, embodying the transformative power of artistic expression.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Suzanne left a worldwide career in opera to start a fashion brand
  • The transformative power of owning your boldness and dressing accordingly
  • How Suzanne created a loyal community before she even started her brand
  • How the personal relationships she’s built with her clients influences her design decisions
  • Why ethical production and paying fair wages are so important to Suzanne
  • The people on Suzanne’s team and what they each do in the business
  • How By Vinnik’s production model has changed and why
  • How Suzanne prioritizes her day to not burn out even though she’s “bad at boundaries”
  • What Suzanne has learned the hard way about the fashion industry
  • Why Suzanne designs a lot of outerwear for her collection

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

23 Apr 2024Reaching Profitability In Fashion Business with Laura Briggs of The Shortlist00:50:17

In episode 92, The Shortlist founder Laura Briggs gives us a detailed look at how her fun and cheeky petite-only brand has reached profitability. From pricing and production to business operations, Laura describes the growing pains she’s gone through and the huge milestones she’s reached as she’s scaled her 3-year-old business.

Laura was also my guest two years ago on How Fitting episode 37 where she talked about how she first started The Shortlist and what her first year of entrepreneurship looked like.

The Shortlist is a premium, limited edition petite fashion brand.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Laura moved production from the UK to Poland
  • How many collections The Shortlist released before it became profitable
  • What the turning point was for profitability
  • What Laura is changing since realizing The Shortlist customer base is wider than she originally thought
  • The balance between innovative designs and familiar basics
  • How The Shortlist has built exceptional loyalty and repeat business from its customers
  • Laura’s genius system for celebrating how far the business has come at each step
  • The rollercoaster of launch day and what Laura is doing to minimize the challenges
  • How Laura balances sharing her personal entrepreneur story and The Shortlist brand voice in her marketing and copywriting
  • Laura’s plan for scaling The Shortlist this year
  • How Laura’s long-term goal for The Shortlist drives her decisions now

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

07 May 2024Creating A Size Chart with Representation with Og Ajibe of Oge Ajibe00:58:02

In episode 93, Oge Ajibe talks about what she’s learned (and where she’s learned) about inclusive fit and fashion business. After 6 years and multiple pivots in business, Oge has slowly created her own way to make sustainable, comfortable clothes that fit no matter your size. She’s uniquely created Oge Ajibe’s size chart, figured out pricing, stayed visible online, and she has big plans for the future of her brand.

Oge Ajibe is a company that educates consumers on portraying themselves across all aspect, of fashion. Our inclusive, sustainable apparel, all handcrafted in Canada, provides our customers with a unique sense of comfort and confidence.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How fashion school did (and did not) prepare her for fashion business
  • What Oge did to build her confidence in the quality of her work
  • How Oge’s business evolved over the years
  • Why Oge thinks big brands are avoiding offering inclusive sizing even when small brands like hers can afford to do it.
  • The unique way Oge created her brand’s sizing to fit XS-5X
  • Why making custom clothing helped her RTW business
  • What Oge learned from the home sewing community
  • The journey one piece of clothing takes to get to the end customer
  • What success looks like for Oge

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

21 May 2024Fashion As Skincare And Self-Awareness with Freya of Solpardus00:50:09

In episode 94, Freya challenges the assumption that synthetics are better for swimwear with her sensitive-skin-focused brand Solpardus – which means ‘sun leopard’. With natural-fiber swimwear and apparel, Freya cares for her skin and the community of other women living with psoriasis, eczema, and sensitive skin that she’s met through running her business.

Solpardus makes all natural bamboo swimwear and linen clothing with skin comfort at the forefront of our design. We marry style with comfort to bring 100% natural, British made, ethical and sustainable swimwear and relaxed tailoring that is perfect for psoriasis and eczema.

The idea for Solpardus came over lockdown in Cornwall when my own psoriasis was in full flare and incredibly sore. As with some other psoriasis sufferers, I find that a healthy dose of sunshine can work wonders for my skin. However, as I am sure any woman can attest to, synthetic swimwear is far from comfortable at the best of times and unbearable against inflamed skin! So I scoured the internet searching for natural fabric swimwear.

After only finding one brand in America and one in Australia (with neither delivering to the UK) I decided to make my own bamboo fabric bikini. I was thrilled to find that, in spite of the messy stitching and wonky elastic I had achieved with my small sewing machine, my first attempt was perfect for my skin. I wore it all summer taking full advantage of the glorious Cornish weather! 

Since then I have made it my mission to challenge the status-quo of synthetic swimwear and bring it back to its natural roots! With Solpardus I also try to encourage women to find empowerment through both comfort and style, especially those with psoriasis, eczema or any other skin complaint. Solpardus, meaning “Sun Leopard”, is in reference to the pigment disparities that often occur when psoriasis heals in the sun giving the skin a leopard-like appearance.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The assumption about fashion that Freya is trying to rewrite
  • How Freya’s sensitive skin sparked the idea for Solpardus
  • How Freya got manufacturers to take her seriously
  • How starting Solpardus challenged Freya’s assumptions about the fashion industry
  • The pros and cons of natural fibers for swimwear
  • What went into Solpardus’ first in-person event
  • How Freya cultivates self-awareness when it comes to her skin and her business

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

04 Jun 2024The Underrated Skills That Will Get You Far in Fashion Business with Madison Powers of Madison Victoria01:03:08

In episode 95, Madison Powers speaks about the story, the underrated skills, and the business plan that have helped her “effortlessly creative” business go far in just a few years. Madison is strategic with her decisions, and crystal clear on her customer and business values, and shares so many little-talked-of realities of fashion business in this interview.

Madison was born and raised in Greensboro North Carolina, obtaining her bachelor's degree from NCCU in Business Administration and Marketing! After a year in Corporate America, Madison decided to put her love of business and fashion into something meaningful. Thus, creating her namesake label Madison Victoria; a slowly made, small-batch-produced woman’s label that offers classic silhouettes with creative and functional designs for the modern women. Creating a community for all and a safe space within the fashion industry for black and brown women.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Madison got into fashion despite being too scared to pursue a fashion degree in school
  • The strategic way Madison interviewed different manufacturing partners to make sure she found the best fit for her business
  • How to stay inspired as a creative without a travel budget
  • Why Madison recommends every business owner create a thorough business plan
  • How her business plan has helped her make better decisions in her business
  • The underrated skill that has helped Madison grow her brand (more than money could)
  • The importance of storytelling - including what, how, and whom to tell
  • Why it is so important to find the right day job before your business becomes full-time.

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

Has listening to How Fitting helped you create a better fit in your fashion business? Episode 100 of this podcast is coming up and I’m planning a special episode featuring the most notable moments from the 104 guests I’ve had on this podcast so far – plus your story! Click here to tell me about your favorite How Fitting episode and how it has impacted you or your business.

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

18 Jun 2024The Price Of Making Sustainable Fashion The Norm with Selina Ho of Recloseted00:54:46

In episode 96, we ask the question: is it possible for fashion brands to be both sustainable and profitable? My guest, Selina Ho, the founder and CEO of sustainable consultancy Recloseted, paints a picture of what a renewed fashion industry could look like and what it would take to get us there. She shares practical steps that brands can take now to improve their sustainability efforts at each stage of business and how to communicate those efforts in specific and honest ways.

Selina is the Founder & CEO of Recloseted and she's on a mission to transform the harmful fashion industry. Her consulting firm Recloseted launches + scales sustainable fashion brands and helps existing brands become more conscious. Selina is also the host of Recloseted Radio, the top podcast for sustainable fashion entrepreneurs.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • What a transformed fashion industry could look like
  • What it will take to make sustainable fashion the norm
  • A better way to set sustainability goals
  • How to approach hard sustainability conversations without backlash
  • Whether it is possible to be both sustainable and profitable
  • Why voting with your dollars also applies to fashion brands, not just consumers
  • Why sustainability can’t be the only selling point
  • How much money it actually takes to start a sustainable fashion brand

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

Has listening to How Fitting helped you create a better fit in your fashion business? Episode 100 of this podcast is coming up and I’m planning a special episode featuring the most notable moments from the 104 guests I’ve had on this podcast so far – plus your story! Click here to tell me about your favorite How Fitting episode and how it has impacted you or your business.

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

02 Jul 2024Innovating Textile Prints For Fashion & Home with Heather Rose Rauscher of Patternier00:56:33

In episode 97, Patternier founder and designer Heather Rose Rauscher gives us a tour of the intricate layers of her innovative artwork and business. Working in the industry for over a decade, she’s learned the rules of textile design. Now, with her own brand, she breaks them. Her luxury fashion and home pieces juxtapose vintage with new and minimal with maximal to create a deeply creative story.

Patternier, the brainchild of Master Textile Designer, Heather Rose Rauscher, is a unique Art, Fashion, and Home company rooted in Textile Design. With a deep passion for vintage fabrics, which showcase design culture, Heather reimagines these pieces through her own lens. Using vintage quilts as the backdrop for her designs, she then hand-paints original patterns over the quilts to create a new textile design- and an original work of art. The new textile is then used to create unique home and fashion stylings.

Pushing it one step further- all fashion pieces are created from vintage silhouettes which Heather sources herself. Using motifs that would not normally be put together, such as, a chinoiserie Jacobean on an Americana Patchwork, Heather somehow makes it work in a sophisticated and inventive way. Any item from Patternier is meant to stand alone as a work of art, not just a luxury good.

Made 100% in New York- from the design and printing to the cut and sew, and quilting, keeping it local and sustainable is at the forefront of Patternier’s mission. Heather’s 10+ year’s in the textile industry ensures that all fabrics of rich cotton, silk, and linen are of the finest quality to match the craftsmanship of the collections.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • What Heather prioritizes in designing her fabrics, textile prints, and products
  • Why it is important to work for other companies before starting your own brand
  • How Heather knew it was the right time to start her own business
  • The innovative technique Heather uses to create the Patternier prints
  • How each print translates into fashion and home products
  • How Heather found her seamstresses
  • The drop schedule Patternier uses to maximize the newness of each print
  • How Heather gets more eyes on the Patternier brand

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

Has listening to How Fitting helped you create a better fit in your fashion business? Episode 100 of this podcast is coming up and I’m planning a special episode featuring the most notable moments from the 104 guests I’ve had on this podcast so far – plus your story! Click here to tell me about your favorite How Fitting episode and how it has impacted you or your business.

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

16 Jul 2024Rethinking Braless Coverage, Comfort, and Clothing with Keona Moy of Vktori00:49:10

In episode 98, hear how Vktori founder Keona Moy is challenging societal norms as well as her own self-limiting beliefs as she grows her braless, bandless, neuro-inclusive clothing brand. Women are told so many shaming messages about how they should dress their boobs, but Vktori is setting a new example of embracing comfort on your own terms.

Keona Moy, with her 13-year healthcare background, founded VKTORI in response to the discomfort of traditional bras and the stigma of going braless. Her firsthand experience with sensory sensitivities at work fueled the creation of VKTORI, a revolutionary women’s wear brand. VKTORI's no-nip tee features a patent-pending and sensory-friendly construction which ensures comfort for all. VKTORI is at the intersection of fashion, wellness, and functionality, which allows women to be comfortable on their terms. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How entrepreneurship has forced Keona to confront her devils
  • The societal pressures of dressing as a woman and how Vktori removes those pressures
  • The problem Keona started out to solve and how that evolved
  • How Keona has funded Vktori’s launch and growth
  • How Vktori’s messaging has changed based on customer feedback
  • How to decide what feedback to pay attention to and what is just a distraction
  • How Keona found the team and advisory board members who are excited about Vktori’s mission
  • How Keona’s perspective on her role as CEO has changed over the years

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

Has listening to How Fitting helped you create a better fit in your fashion business? Episode 100 of this podcast is coming up and I’m planning a special episode featuring the most notable moments from the 104 guests I’ve had on this podcast so far – plus your story! Click here to tell me about your favorite How Fitting episode and how it has impacted you or your business.

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30 Jul 2024Prioritizing The People (While Still Being Profitable) with Kat Williford of Pamut00:47:33

In episode 99, Kat Williford recounts how her brand Pamut has shifted over the years to sustain her and now her team through cross-continental moves, hard times, and new family priorities. Kat puts people first, but doesn’t miss a beat on the creative or the financial aspects of her business either. Hear how her thriving business model works in this episode.

Kat is the owner and designer behind the slow fashion brand Pamut. After completing her BFA in Fashion at the Savannah College of Art and Design and working for years at a mall brand, Kat took a chance and moved to Budapest, Hungary. She rented out a little screenprinting studio and started printing tees, which they then sewed in her apartment. When she moved back to Raleigh, NC in 2016, she expanded upon the concept of custom and made-to-order clothing. Since then, Pamut (which means "cotton" in Hungarian) has grown into a successful small business. Based out of her Raleigh studio, Kat designs beautiful and timeless styles, all made from natural fibers and available in sizes XS-4XL. All Pamut pieces are cut and sewn by the Pamut team in-house.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • What Kat learned from working for both a slow fashion brand and a fast fashion mall brand early on in her career
  • How her patternmaking skills have helped her offer custom sizing profitably
  • Why Kat chose the made to order model for Pamut
  • The things Kat values more than certifications from the fabrics she sources
  • The benefits and risks of working for yourself
  • How becoming a mom has allowed Kat to be more productive
  • The best decision Kat has ever made in her business
  • The actual amount Pamut spends on new customer acquisition

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

Has listening to How Fitting helped you create a better fit in your fashion business? Episode 100 of this podcast is coming up and I’m planning a special episode featuring the most notable moments from the 104 guests I’ve had on this podcast so far – plus your story! Click here to tell me about your favorite How Fitting episode and how it has impacted you or your business.

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

13 Aug 2024How These Listener-Favorite Episodes Have Shaped Your Fashion Business00:58:59

It’s episode 100 of How Fitting®! Each of these conversations with fashion designers and business owners has explored how they create clothing and grow a business that fits their customer, lifestyle, and values. I have enjoyed getting to know each of these people and seeing what drives their decisions and it has been a privilege to share their stories with you on this podcast over the past four years. Fashion has meaning and significance far beyond the superficial look.

To celebrate this 100-episode milestone, I asked you, the listeners, which episodes and guests have stood out to you the most. Whether it was because you saw your own story in theirs, picked up a new business idea, or gained the courage to pursue your own values more fully, I want to celebrate the impact these stories have had.

In this episode, you’ll hear highlights from five past episodes and what made them a favorite. Each guest and brand have found their unique fit, but there is so much in each story that we can relate to and learn from. How Fitting is that?

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How to reframe sales and marketing from sleazy to being of service to your customers and your business
  • The benefit of putting your community and lifestyle first in your business
  • What it takes to make it as a fashion entrepreneur
  • How long it took for this founder to go from zero knowledge of how clothes are made to turning a profit in her fashion brand.
  • How to find support and inspiration from your friends and family
  • How to overcome the fear of failure

Favorite episodes mentioned in this episode:

  • HF#72: Selling Your Products Without Selling Your Soul with Elizabeth Stiles
  • HF#90: Prioritizing Customer Research and Values To Shape A Modest Activewear Brand with Aja Cohen of Transcendent Active
  • HF#37: The Fun & The Reality of Fashion Entrepreneurship with Laura Briggs of The Shortlist
  • HF#92: Reaching Profitability In Fashion Business with Laura Briggs of The Shortlist
  • HF#81: The Basics of Timeless Slow Fashion with Emily Bracey of Juuney
  • HF#29: Equality, Power, and Functional Pockets For All with Kimberly Borges and Miriam McDonald of PWR WMN
  • HF#77: The Fat Success of Comfort and Good Fit with Marina Hayes of Peridot Robes
  • HF#95: The Underrated Skills That Will Get You Far in Fashion Business with Madison Powers of Madison Victoria
  • HF#58: Perfecting The Craft of High-End Tailoring with Keti McKenna of Ketivani

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27 Aug 2024This Fit Is Not For Everybody (and that’s okay) with Kalia Carter of BodyCon The Brand00:53:12

In episode 101, Kalia Carter gets real about the challenges she’s faced creating BodyCon The Brand exclusively to fit full-bust women. She’s faced pushback from factories and internet trolls alike for her unwavering focus on full-bust fit, but she’s also created the pieces she’s always wished she could wear and has a growing community of women in her niche that get it and support what she’s building.

Kalia started BodyCon the Brand as a fuller-bust clothing brand. Growing up she had always struggled to find pieces she was comfortable in, that flattered her, and that actually fit. This applied to almost everything: bras, tops, dresses, and swimsuits. You name it! Everything was either too small on the chest and fit the waist, or fit the chest and was too big on the waist! Kalia started this brand to attempt to solve this problem! She first launched in March of 2024 and has been able to serve hundreds of happy customers. Kalia is actively working on new pieces and always looking for inspiration in new trends!

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Kalia developed and stays firm on BodyCon The Brand’s full-bust size chart
  • How to communicate sizing effectively for e-commerce 
  • The expensive lesson Kalia learned about manufacturing
  • Why Kalia uses a different factory for each of her designs
  • How Kalia develops her tech packs without having good comp samples to reference
  • The good and the bad sides of going viral for your business
  • The number one thing that has fueled BodyCon The Brand’s social media growth

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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10 Sep 2024What Women Really Think About Pockets According To Research with Aditi Sinha of Point of View Label00:59:46

In episode 102, women’s workwear brand founder Aditi Sinha speaks out against pocket inequality for women in the workplace. Hear how she is leveraging extensive research and customer feedback to close this gap - not just with the size of pockets - through her brand Point of View Label. 

Aditi Sinha is the founder & CEO of Point of View, a Seattle based functional and designer workwear brand on a mission to end pockets inequality for women through smartphone pockets in everything they make. POV has started the 'Pockets Pledge' movement, a change.org petition where women all over the world demand functional pockets from the fashion industry.

With over 15 years of work experience, Aditi is a big tech marketing executive alum with the likes of Amazon as well as early member of decacorn start ups back home in India. In her role as a founder and former corporate business leader, she has mentored multiple women and start ups in the early stages of their professional journey. Aditi is passionate about bringing meaningful change with respect to women's equity and diversity. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Aditi’s point of view on women’s workwear
  • Why pocket inequality is a big deal in the workplace
  • The research Aditi did before starting POV and what it revealed about today’s women in the workforce
  • How Point of View Label’s brand tenants helped curate their debut collection
  • How Aditi met her co-founder Sakina
  • How Aditi collects and organizes customer feedback in a way that is useful for future reference
  • When polarizing designs are a good thing

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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24 Sep 2024Making The “Right” Next Move For Your Brand with Kristen Chester of Casa Danu00:51:58

In episode 103, Kristen Chester shares the beautiful moments and the uncertain realities of growing a fashion brand. She started Casa Danu after surviving breast cancer which transformed the way she thinks about clothing. Her mission with the brand is to help women feel more alive and more like themselves no matter what they are going through. Tune in to hear how Kristen makes decisions about production, materials, and profitability in alignment with this mission.

Kristen is the founder of Casa Danu, a sustainable womenswear brand focused on vibrant, chic, and print-forward clothing (think caftans, kimonos, and coordinated sets) that has 1 goal: to help as many women as possible, especially those impacted by cancer, feel beautiful, empowered, and full of life.

Kristen started the brand after being diagnosed with breast cancer at 34 years old and 6 months pregnant. During this time, when she was at her lowest physically, mentally, and emotionally, she longed for comfortable clothing that helped her feel put together, beautiful, and ALIVE. Today, Casa Danu exists to uplift women going through similar challenges, cancer or otherwise, who feel that they have lost a part of themselves. Every Casa Danu purchase helps donate a beautiful garment to a deserving woman impacted by cancer, spreading a little extra joy where it’s needed most.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why joy and color became integral aspects of the Casa Danu brand
  • What transformed Kristen’s perspective on clothing
  • Why Kristen wanted to start her brand “right” and what “right” meant to her
  • How Kristen finds the budget to donate one product for every product sold
  • The ways Casa Danu has helped Kristen reconnect with herself and helped other women connect with each other
  • How Kristen makes decisions that are values-aligned in her business

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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09 Oct 2024Valuing The Longevity Of Clothing with Aiste Zitnikaite of Devinto00:57:49

In episode 104, hear how Aiste designs for longevity, how she’s learned to do better when it comes to sustainability over the years, and what still needs to happen to make ethical fashion brands viable in the long-term. With over a decade in business, Aiste knows what works and what doesn’t and openly shares her knowledge.

Aiste Zitnikaite is a Lithuanian born designer based in Hyannis, Cape Cod, MA. Aiste studied fashion design at Lasalle College in Montreal, Canada and spent several years working in Montreal’s fashion industry. This is when she became more aware of some of the problematic practices of mainstream fashion brands such as wastefulness and the working conditions at overseas factories. This is when her interest in sustainable fashion truly developed. It was the early 2000s, so sustainability was not that often discussed in fashion. 

Aiste’s passion for a more eco-conscious alternative led her to seek out brands that focused on ethical production but she found it hard to find designs that appealed to her aesthetic. In 2013, DEVINTO was created to fill that gap in the market as a sustainable, ethically conscious slow fashion label. Her specialty is in classic, elegant women’s wear that’s made to order (and often custom made) from her studio. Inspired by style that is at once feminine and empowering, elegant and defiant, while remaining simple and comfortable, Aiste designs, patterns, cuts and sews every piece in her studio. 

Longevity is a key design component for DEVINTO. With a taste for vintage and French fashion, DEVINTO has a timeless aesthetic and a belief that while style and glamor should be easily accessible, fashion should not harm our planet. Production is purposeful that is why all designs are hand cut in small batches to minimize waste and overproduction. The customers are encouraged to reach out directly for more personalized fits. Aiste aims to bring back a more personal connection to clothing that was sadly lost in the wake of mass produced fashion.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Aiste wanted to do better with her brand and what “better” means to her
  • Why most of Devinto’s collections are made with knit fabrics
  • How Aiste designs for longevity
  • How Aiste manages her time 
  • How Devinto’s business model works with the seasonality of the location
  • Why Aiste sells on Etsy in addition to her own website
  • Why Aiste teaches sewing alongside running her own brand
  • What Aiste thinks it will take for sustainable fashion businesses to be more profitable

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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22 Oct 2024Expectations Vs. Reality of Fair Trade Manufacturing with Ari Louise of Glean & Grace00:57:23

In episode 105, hear the step-by-step timeline that Ari took to design, launch, and produce her first product for her historically-inspired maternity brand Glean & Grace. In our conversation, she reveals the ways the process didn’t go as planned, but how it has been rewarding and encouraging nonetheless. 

Ari is a trained tailor turned sustainable clothing designer. Ari and her husband have 2 kids, a 3 year old and an 18 month old. She uses historic patterning and modern design to create beautifully functional clothing for mothers who want to feel like themselves again.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How working with a factory was different than Ari expected
  • How Ari got connected with her factory and fabric supplier
  • What Ari sent to her factory to get started
  • How Ari’s perspective on designing clothing changed when she started making clothes for others instead of just herself
  • Why historical maternity clothes are a key source of inspiration for Glean & Grace
  • The exact timeline it took to launch Glean & Grace’s first product
  • Why Ari is thankful she didn’t meet her day-of-launch goal
  • What Ari is planning to do differently for her next collection

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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05 Nov 2024How Customer Conversations Become Actionable and Empathetic Insights with Erin Cavanaugh of See ROSE Go00:54:59

In episode 106, Erin shares how conversations have shaped their brand and how she turns those insights into empathetic action. It was after decades in the industry at big-name brands like Nike, Converse, and Nordstrom that Erin and her co-founder realized just how hard it is for plus-size women to find clothes that fit after an elevator conversation with a co-worker. That conversation sparked others that began Erin and Yi’s entrepreneurial journey as the founders of See ROSE Go.

Accomplished Chief Merchandising Officer with over 20 years of industry experience leading innovative strategies across fashion and retail, Erin’s career began as a Nordstrom buyer. It was with Nordstrom that Erin discovered her passion for enhancing the customer experience, through empathy and an in-depth understanding of the customer’s point of view.

Nike Inc. recruited Erin to lead an Outlet division for Men’s, Women’s, and Kid’s Apparel and Accessories. She was quickly promoted to direct Men’s Apparel Merchandising for the Asia Pacific / China region. More recently, she drove significant growth in women’s apparel, optimizing product lines and achieving exceptional GM% as the Global Women’s Merchandising Director. In these roles, Erin remained consumer-centric, leading insight strategy and product creation to enhance the overall customer experience through superior products.

In 2018, Erin co-founded See ROSE Go, a plus-size fashion brand with an ethos in intentional design, innovation, and mindful sustainability.  Leading merchandising strategy, omni-channel distribution, and business development, Erin also successfully secured VC funding as a new founder with a newborn at home. In 2021, See ROSE Go received an honorable mention in Fast Company’s Innovation by Design Awards for the proprietary tech/lifestyle fabric, CoolROSE™. In 2023 Erin received a U.S. Patent for this fabric. CoolROSE™ was invented as a direct response to issues women deal with but seldom speak about -  body heat, sweat, and pilling from friction between body parts.

Erin and See ROSE Go have been recognized by Forbes, CBS Money, and WWD for challenging industry norms. She was recently featured with her Co-Founder, Yi Zhou, in Authority Magazine as female disruptors shaking up their industry. It is the See ROSE Go mission to see women embrace their power and “go”. To Erin, style isn’t just how a woman looks, it is how she moves and feels and the impact she makes while wearing See ROSE Go. Get to know more about Erin and See ROSE Go at, https://seerosego.com/blogs/meet-the-founders

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How co-founders Erin and Yi start and continue conversations with women in their target market
  • How Erin organizes the insights from each conversation and breaks them down into actionable information
  • How Erin’s Nike background gives her a performance-focused product perspective
  • The market gap that See ROSE Go fills and the revelation that started it all
  • The process of developing and patenting their CoolROSE fabric
  • How Erin stays connected with the See ROSE Go community
  • How Erin and Yi have funded the brand and why they’ve changed approaches over the years
  • What Erin is most proud of

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

  • See ROSE Go website (Erin shared a 20% discount with How Fitting listeners! Use code SMILE.)
  • See ROSE Go Instagram
  • Erin’s LinkedIn

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

19 Nov 2024With Aging and Fashion Business, The Only Constant Is Change with Julie Corwin of Birdie & Claire00:52:46

With age, comes wisdom - and also change. Women 50+ years old are often overlooked by the fashion industry, but Birdie & Claire founder Julie Corwin celebrates style at every age. As these women go through transitions in their lives and bodies, Julie’s business has changed as well. In episode 107, Julie shares how her brand has stayed flexible and draws inspiration from the experience of women who have come before her.

Julie is the founder and owner of Birdie & Claire, an independent women’s apparel brand dedicated to timeless, elevated style for women at every stage of life. The inspiration for Birdie & Claire came when Julie was shopping with her mom, aunt, and grandmother for an upcoming family wedding, and she noticed the limited age-inclusive clothing options available. Hearing their frustration about the lack of brands catering to women as they age inspired Julie to create a line that celebrates timeless style and confidence across generations.

After completing her MBA, Julie launched Birdie & Claire, producing thoughtfully designed small-batch collections in NYC, with knitwear sustainably crafted on demand in Brooklyn. Birdie & Claire’s focus on versatile, flattering pieces that mix and match seamlessly is rooted in the brand’s mission to create clothing that resonates with women of all ages and offers style, comfort, and quality that is made to last.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Birdie & Claire defines age-appropriateness
  • How Julie designs and runs her business with change in mind
  • Where Julie gathered research outside of customer interviews and what it revealed
  • The silver lining of starting her brand during the peak of the pandemic
  • Why Julie decided to offer both knitwear and cut & sew pieces in her brand
  • Why Birdie & Claire’s first collection was more casual when the initial idea was for eventwear
  • What Julie did to better understand the language of fashion
  • The stereotypes about and the diversity amongst women age 50+
  • How Birdie & Claire supports Julie in her current stage of life
  • The wisdom Julie has learned from older women

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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14 Jan 2025The Adventures Of Outdoor Apparel Entrepreneurship with Suzi Zook of Alta Reina00:52:07

Which is the bigger adventure: alpine skiing or starting a fashion brand? For Alta Reina founder Suzi Zook, they each provide their own set of thrills and challenges. In episode 108, Suzi tells of the peaks and valleys of starting her outdoor apparel brand made to fit tall women. From navigating sustainable sourcing of performance fabrics to overcoming pre-production self-doubt, Suzi is gearing up (in fun colors) for the long run.

Suzi Zook is the engine behind Alta Reina, a clothing brand focused on high-quality, responsibly sourced materials and U.S. manufacturing. Tailored for tall women, Alta Reina offers vibrant, functional clothing with practical details like pockets, combining style and functionality for women who need more than the standard fit.

Suzi holds a B.S. in Family and Consumer Sciences from Oregon State University, with a minor in music. A former rugby player and team president, she later became an assistant coach after graduation. Suzi has also worked as a substitute teacher in Oregon and Washington. After her time at REI, she pursued a graduate degree in Elementary Education from USC's Rossier School of Education.

Suzi’s seven-year tenure at REI gave her extensive experience across a variety of roles, including repairs, rentals, customer service, footwear, and marketing. Her marketing work involved creating promotional videos and making guest appearances on morning talk shows to promote outdoor recreation and REI products. Through her work at REI, she developed a deep understanding of how clothing and shoes fit and perform, helping customers find apparel that suits their bodies.

At 5’11", Suzi has always faced challenges finding clothing that fits her athletic frame. After years of crafting her own clothes, marrying a 6’10" partner, and raising two tall daughters, she realized the need for a brand that catered to women like her. The struggles her family faced finding well-fitting winter gear and swimsuits inspired the launch of Alta Reina (originally considered "Mountain Amazon").

In 2020, Suzi explored the market potential for a tall women's outdoor brand at the Outdoor Retailer trade show. Although the concept garnered interest, the COVID-19 pandemic delayed her plans. After recovering and caring for her family, Suzi enrolled in the Factory 45 mentorship program. Over the next two years, she sourced fabrics and U.S.-based manufacturers, overcoming setbacks like factories pivoting away from small designers. Eventually, she found a manufacturing partner in The Bronx, NY, and launched Alta Reina’s first line of base layers in Fall 2024.

Suzi is committed to ethical production, opposing fast fashion and ensuring fair treatment of workers. While polyester is used for its durability and protection, she is dedicated to responsible sourcing. Her journey is fueled by a passion for creating stylish, functional clothing for tall women.

Outside of work, Suzi continues to substitute teach and enjoys Nordic and alpine skiing, yoga, swimming, horseback riding, hiking, and mountain biking. She also sews and adds personal touches to her wardrobe.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • What didn’t fit about existing outdoor apparel in the market
  • What is so special about niche brands
  • How she got feedback on her brand concept before starting anything
  • Why Suzi prefers to DIY many things in her business
  • The point she realized she needed more education and accountability
  • How Suzi is funding Alta Reina
  • The point in development that scared her and how her husband’s advice helped her move forward
  • How Suzi got connected with her patternmaker (me) and her factory
  • The factors that influenced what products she started with
  • How Alta Reina balances sustainability with performance

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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28 Jan 2025Questions To Ask Your Fabric Supplier To Ensure Quality & Consistency with Thomas Oviedo of Carr Textile01:02:16

Sourcing fabrics that fit their design, values, and budget is one of the biggest challenges designers face in making their designs a reality. It is such a relief when you can find a fabric supplier you can count on to grow your business. In episode 109, meet Thomas Oviedo, the Sales Manager at Carr Textile. In our conversation, he breaks down Carr’s fabric offerings, printing services, and rigorous quality testing process. Thomas also shares a list of questions to ask fabric suppliers to determine which fabric is the right fit for your project. Whether you are looking for 1yd or upwards of 10,000yds, Carr is here to help.

Thomas Oviedo is the Sales Manager at Carr Textile Corporation, a leading name in stock fabric programs, digital printing on all fibers, and cap component manufacturing. 

With over 23 years of extensive experience in the textile industry across various sectors, Thomas has developed a deep understanding of market dynamics and customer needs.

With a remarkable 51 years in business, Carr Textile has established itself as a one-stop shop, offering an extensive range of fabric options and services to meet the diverse needs of the industry.  Carr Textile boasts a current stock inventory exceeding 6 million yards, all available with no minimum order requirements, making it a go-to resource for customers. 

Recently, Carr Textile acquired Philips-Boyne, a fine woven shirting company based in New York. This strategic acquisition positions Carr Textile to better serve various segments of the apparel industry, further enhancing its market reach.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The innovative printing services Carr Textile offers within their TexTerra division
  • The pros, cons, and costs of different printing methods
  • What types of fabrics Carr Textile offers and specializes in
  • Where Carr produces and stocks their fabrics
  • The extensive fabric testing Carr Textile does in-house to ensure quality and consistency
  • The ways Carr Textile supports brands from start-up to large corporate
  • Good questions to ask your fabric supplier 
  • Thomas’ outlook on the effects of potential tariff increases
  • The eco-friendly fabric lines and printing processes Carr offers

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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11 Feb 2025Orchestrating Change in Concert Attire For Classical Musicians with Mercedes Smith of Blackstrad00:59:32

Classical music is rooted in rich history, formality, and tradition - but does the musicians’ concert attire still have to be? Blackstrad founder and professional flutist Mercedes Smith thinks it is time for a change of pace in performance wardrobes. In episode 110, hear how she is designing new concert black attire that resonates with the individuality of modern musicians while keeping the harmony of a unified ensemble. 

Mercedes Smith has served as the Principal Flutist of the Utah Symphony since 2012, having previously held the same position with the Houston Grand Opera and Houston Ballet Orchestras.

She has performed in Carnegie Hall, throughout Europe and Asia, and at renowned music festivals including the Grand Teton Music Festival, Tanglewood, Music Academy of the West, Verbier Festival Orchestra, and Marlboro.

Never one to idle, Mercedes turned the pandemic into an opportunity, obtaining a real estate license and earning an M.B.A. from the University of Utah. Her latest endeavor is the creation of Blackstrad, a line of concert attire designed for the modern musician. She resides in Salt Lake City with her husband and three very silly dogs.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The role fashion plays in music performance
  • The challenges musicians face in finding concert attire
  • The gender inequality of concert dress codes (it's not what you think)
  • How Mercedes got started on her brand
  • How to know when a design is done and get over perfectionism
  • What surprised Mercedes by how difficult it was 
  • Why Mercedes wishes she had trusted her patternmaker more
  • Why Mercedes doesn’t like the term “sustainability”
  • The unique business model of Blackstrad
  • Mercedes’ plans for Blackstrad and her own future

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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25 Feb 2025This Brand Has Strong Opinions About Style and Women’s Rights with Kimberly Becker of K. Becker00:54:22

More and more in today’s fashion industry, women are the ones in charge and designing for themselves instead of for some unrealistic societal ideal. Kimberly Becker is doing this and going a step further for women’s rights with her brand K. Becker. In episode 111, hear how politics, feminism, and sustainability guide her work and how she’s using fashion to give back to causes that support women across the globe.

Kimberly started this journey as a Textile Major at RISD. After graduating, she worked in the garment district of Manhattan for about a decade off and on – beginning at Liz Claiborne, and then moving to upholstery fabric design, always focused on designing the fabrics. Kimberly’s time at Liz Claiborne gave her priceless experience, both about how the business was run and also in getting exposure to the suppliers and manufacturers from around the world. 

Fast forward 25 years and she is creating art focused on women's rights. Her House Dresses and Dolls for Change were both discussions about how women are still facing an uphill battle in the world. Someone asked her why she wasn't designing clothing. They loved the way the dolls Kimberly was making were dressed. It took about 6 months for Kimberly to find the courage to try. That decision was life-changing. She’s one year in and the brand is settling into the collection and message she feels fits what she was aiming for. 

K.Becker is a collection of sustainable pretty things that fit and flatters real women's bodies. Empowering women is vital. When we feel beautiful we are a force. All clothing is sewn in NYC, and knit in Brooklyn and the company is an all-women team. Kimberly donates 5% of all profits to women-focused causes. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The two sides of feminism in fashion and where Kimberly sees both in the industry today
  • How politics and women’s rights activism sparked the idea for K. Becker
  • Why Kimberly moved away from describing her brand as petite
  • The thing that Kimberly asks her focus groups of women to bring
  • The balance between being too corporate and too personal as a brand
  • The core message and values that guide K. Becker
  • How Kimberly met her factory and patternmaker
  • The importance of consistency
  • Why Kimberly doesn’t like to use blended fiber materials
  • How Kimberly’s background in textiles influences her fabric and apparel design decisions

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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11 Mar 2025How Made In the USA Clothing Connects Craft and Community with Kristina Collins01:00:57

What if clothes not only reflected the beauty and personality of the wearer, but brought together the skills, people, and livelihoods of a whole community? This is why Kristina Collins is passionate about producing her brand of jackets and sweaters in the USA as locally as possible. In episode 112, hear how she has focused her creativity and her sourcing to connect the community around her. This priority brings challenges, but also many opportunities to her fashion business. Kristina shares her transparent philosophy as well as her tips for brands wanting to set up a local supply chain of their own.

Kristina Collins clothing is women's jackets, blazers, and sweaters designed and made in the USA. Our mission is stand-out, high-quality garments that are sourced and made with our local community at heart.

This episode explores:

Fitting the customer

  • Why made in the USA is important to Kristina and her brand
  • Why Kristina narrowed her offerings to just jackets and sweaters
  • The dilemma with pricing products as a small brand

Fitting the lifestyle & business

  • How Kristina Collins navigates the seasonality of a Fall/Winter focused brand
  • How Kristina is adjusting her design and production schedules to accommodate wholesale in 2025
  • The production model that is working for Kristina Collins
  • Why Kristina recommends working with individuals instead of a full-package factory or agency when developing your brands first products

Fitting the values

  • The challenges and benefits of fitting your values in your fashion business
  • How to make local manufacturing and production connections
  • The types of fabrics and fibers that are easy to source in the USA
  • Whether sample sales or resale hurt a brand’s reputation

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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25 Mar 2025How To Build Trust With Customers As a New Brand With Niche Fit with Neha Samdaria of AAM The Label01:00:02

We’ve all been burned by an online clothing purchase that didn’t live up to its promised fit and quality. It is no wonder that women who don’t fit standard-size charts are hesitant to purchase from a new brand online. This is the challenge that AAM The Label CEO and founder Neha Samdaria has overcome within her brand that designs for pear-shaped women with fuller hips and thighs. In episode 113, Neha shares exactly what she did to build trust with her customers and factory, keep return rates super low, get stocked in Nordstrom, and have Buzzfeed and Forbes editors writing raving reviews.

Neha Samdaria is the founder of Aam The Label, a sustainable fashion brand for the ~25% of women with fuller hips and thighs than the standard size chart. Founded based on her own experience as a pear-shaped woman and bootstrapped entirely from her savings, the brand is now available at Nordstrom and has been featured in Forbes and Cosmopolitan. Neha holds an MBA from Stanford and a Bachelor's In Science from Caltech.

This episode explores:

Fitting the customer

  • How Neha created her own unique size chart for AAM The Label that focuses on body shape more than size
  • How Neha conducts fit testing to make sure she gets the best fit for her brand and not just the individual fit models
  • How AAM The Label got placement in Nordstrom

Fitting the lifestyle

  • The exact things Neha did to build trust with customers online
  • How AAM The Label had to adjust to make wholesale work
  • Neha’s original goals and timeline for business success and how her goals are different now
  • The pros and cons of retail and wholesale
  • The biggest mistake Neha made starting out

Fitting the values

  • What AAM’s values of fit, quality, and sustainability & ethics look like in practice
  • How Neha found her factory, patternmaker, designer, and sample makers

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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18 Aug 2020“Documentaries Made Me Do It” with Jessica Conick of Mount Indigo00:48:23

After watching the fashion documentary "The True Cost", Jessica couldn't "un-see" the facts about the impact of the fashion industry on the world. That began her journey to examine her own relationship with fashion and eventually start her brand, Mount Indigo, to spread awareness and advocate for a more sustainable fashion future.

Jessica currently splits her time between a corporate job in fashion as the Associate Manager of Brand Marketing for Soft Surroundings, a volunteer position as the Regional Director for Fashion Group International of Saint Louis, and growing her sustainable fashion startup brand, Mount Indigo. She specializes in fashion marketing and public relations and is very passionate about creating a more sustainable fashion industry.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How watching a documentary about the impact of the fashion industry on our world prompted Jessica to start a sustainable brand
  • What she did to start the brand and how she had to shift her vision to stay true to her mission
  • How she decided what products would go in her launch collection
  • How customer feedback is informing her messaging and sales pitch
  • Why having colleagues and friends to bounce ideas off of is so important
  • How she juggles a full-time day job, volunteering for a professional non-profit, and her start-up
  • How her sustainability research and brand launch have impacted her own buying habits

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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15 Sep 2020Giving Back As A Lifestyle Brand with Daphne Benzaquen of daph.00:55:06

Daphne Benzaquen is the creative designer, CEO and founder of daph., a St. Louis-based fashion and lifestyle brand inspired by her Peruvian heritage.

She was inspired to start daph. while pursuing her M.B.A. at Washington University’s Olin School of Business. After having trouble finding a backpack that was functional, high quality, and fashionable, she decided to design her own bag, incorporating the unique materials and craftsmanship of Peru, and daph. was born.

Founded in 2016, daph. is one of the only U.S. fashion and lifestyle brands that solely combines modern, timeless designs with Peruvian resources and handcraftsmanship.

Daphne is passionate and committed to giving back, donating a portion of all daph. sales to support children with special needs in Peru. She also supports local charities in daph.’s headquarters, and is actively involved in the St. Louis fashion community, helping to mentor and support other designers and entrepreneurs, as well as serving as the marketing committee co-chair for Fashion Group International, Inc. Additionally, she serves on the Young Professionals Board for Annie’s Hope.

In 2019, Daphne was named one of St. Louis Business Journal’s ’30 under 30’, and has been featured in many local media publications and news outlets, including St. Louis Post-Dispatch, Riverfront Times, Ladue News, Town & Style, Fox 2 News, ‘Show Me St. Louis’, STL TV, and more.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How a degree in Pre-Med, a Masters in Business Administration, and her Peruvian heritage lead Daphne to start her fashion lifestyle brand daph.
  • Why she made giving back such a big part of her brand and business -- even when she was a brand-new start-up -- and the impact it’s had.
  • How she found the factory that produced her first collection (who she still works with to this day).
  • How she balances designing products that she personally likes with products that her customers love to buy.
  • What she’s learned adding an apparel product line to daph. 
  • How Daphne sees her customers and manufacturing partners like a community and how that has helped her during low points in her entrepreneurial journey.
  • When she has learned to trust her gut. 
  • Why Daphne thinks it is so important for designers to visit the factories that make their products.
  • What’s next for daph. - Daphne gives us a sneak peak of what’s coming for Fall 2020 and Spring 2021!

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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13 Oct 2020Designing Artful Ease with Katrina Bennett of Katrina Z’Chori00:46:37

Katrina Bennett is a Fiber Artist, Fashion Designer, and the owner of Katrina Z'Chori - a brand of handmade wearable art. With over 18 combined years of sewing and pattern making experience, Katrina conceptualizes, designs and produces hand knotted and hand-dyed wearables from natural fibers such as cotton and hemp twine, string or rope and cotton and linen textiles. She’s inspired by natural fibers due to their breathability and ease of care properties. Adding to that, natural fibers like cotton show the vibrancy of Procion fiber creative dyes extremely well when combined with Japanese Shibori hand-dyed methods. Katrina draws inspiration from the traditional yet contemporary and relaxed aesthetic of these materials and how well they hold up over the life of each design piece. Her pieces are designed with the inspiration to travel, attend a festivity, or just stylishly lounge around. In most cases a single design will fit into all of these occasions.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Katrina’s experience with excessive sweating, known as hyperhidrosis, impacts her designs and material choices.
  • What her one-of-a-kind hand-dyed creative process looks like and how she tests new silhouettes.
  • What benefits she’s seen from selling at in-person vending events like art fairs and pop-up markets. 
  • Why storytelling is a big part of how she communicates her brand.
  • Katrina’s tips for becoming a pro at brand storytelling. 
  • How Katrina found her customer and market niche. 
  • How Katrina starts conversations with her customers to get their feedback
  • What activity Katrina has been doing during COVID to set her up for better work in the future.

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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27 Oct 2020The Future of Sustainable Garment Design with Mary Ruppert-Stroescu of RECLEM00:56:15

Mary Ruppert-Stroescu is an Associate Professor in the Sam Fox School of Design and Visual Art at Washington University in St. Louis. She holds a Ph.D. in Human Environmental Sciences and a MS in Textile and Apparel Management. With nearly 10 years of prior experience working in fashion design and manufacturing in Europe and North Africa, Mary links industry practices and standards with academic analysis and exploration to foster innovation that is useful and meaningful. Her research focuses on the study and application of creativity, sustainable textile and fashion design, and wearable electronic textile-based systems to improve health and well-being. She holds a patent, titled: Textile repurposing and sustainable garment design.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Mary got started in her sustainability research
  • What the research, proof of concept, and patent process looked like
  • How the design process differs when designing for the RECLEM process versus traditional cut and sew manufacturing 
  • How the RECLEM process reuses textiles and eliminates waste 
  • How Mary defines sustainability in fashion
  • How designers have the biggest impact on the recyclability of a product
  • What Mary sees as the future of fashion design and manufacturing
  • The difference between convergent and divergent creativity
  • The skills Mary sees as essential for the fashion designers of the future

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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10 Nov 2020Selling Custom-Made Womenswear on Etsy with Shanna Mellnick of Shanna Britta00:52:32

Shanna Britta Mellnick is a small business owner who designs and constructs contemporary women’s wear, specializing in customer-focused fit and style. A graduate of the apparel design programs at both Purdue University and the Fashion Institute of Technology at New York University, Shanna also gained exposure to a variety of designers, working with Michael Faircloth, Versace, and Tommy Hilfiger during her education. After college, she helped manage production, pattern making, and design at Linda Segal in Houston, TX. Shanna then moved to St. Louis, MO – her current home – where she joined the design team at Lori Coulter, LLC (now SummerSalt Swimwear), focusing on custom-made swimwear for women. 

Shanna has taken these experiences to her own company with a wide array of products available in her online store, ranging from basic garments for any occasion to elaborate, glamorous pieces for special events. Her clients universally comment on her use of high quality, durable materials and construction, ability to custom-fit a garment to any body type, and fantastic eye for capturing the very best of today’s fashion trends.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Shanna’s interest in custom-fit garments began
  • What inspires her designs and product categories
  • What her process for creating a fully custom garment for a client looks like
  • Shanna’s advice on finding the best factory partnerships for your brand
  • What Shanna’s experience has been selling on Etsy
  • How Shanna got involved in mask making -- even while factories were shut down
  • What she did to develop and test her mask pattern and really make sure it fit
  • About a sustainable “farm to fashion” project in the works for Shanna Britta that Shanna’s excited about

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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29 Sep 2020Taking a Niche Fit to New Heights with Taylor McCleneghan of Taylor Tall00:49:42

Taylor is the co-founder and lead designer at Taylor Tall. For tall women seeking clothing thoughtfully sized to fit them, Taylor Tall is a consciously crafted clothing line that designs and produces timeless basics, customized for a true fit.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why she chose such a narrow niche for her target market and why that was initially a scary decision
  • The reason why a niche target market makes brands more successful
  • How defining your target market influences design and technical design - not just marketing
  • What competitive research Taylor did before perfecting her brand’s fit
  • The specific fit problems Taylor Tall solves
  • Who she got to be the brand’s fit model
  • What Taylor did at the beginning of her brand to lay the foundation for when her brand grew
  • How Taylor got into fair trade manufacturing
  • Why Taylor’s so glad to have had experience working in production management at a previous job
  • What things Taylor’s realized contribute to great factory partnerships
  • How NOT to handle issues during pre-production and sampling
  • Why Taylor and her husband chose “consciously crafted” as a brand pillar and what that means for their business and production
  • What inspires Taylor Tall designs

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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18 Aug 2020Welcome to How Fitting00:02:27

Hello and welcome to the How Fitting podcast. I’m Alison Hoenes. On this podcast, you’ll get to hear from independent fashion designers and entrepreneurs about how they grow their business making clothes that fit their customer and values. 

I’ll be your host for this show, but I’m also a freelance patternmaker who helps independent womenswear brands keep control of product development without the technical hassle.

As a patternmaker, I care about how clothes fit. There is something special about how well-fitting clothes make us feel. But even beyond how a garment physically fits a body, I think our clothes should also fit well with our lifestyle and values. Clothes affect our view of ourselves and others and how we go about manufacturing and buying them reflects what our values are. How do my designs fit with my market niche? How do I make this specific style or trend fit my customer? How do I find a factory that fits my business needs? How do I find fabrics that fit with my brand’s value of sustainability? How do I make sure my designs really fit an inclusive size range? These or similar questions are things you’ve probably asked concerning your own brand.

And you’re not alone. I have conversations about these topics all the time with fashion business owners. These conversations are what inspired me to start this podcast to share these "fitting" stories and questions from independent fashion businesses. While the answers to these questions, the exact business values, and specific target markets are slightly different for each brand, I think there is alot that can be learned from seeing how other brands fit it all together. My goal is that you’ll find these stories inspiring and insightful and they’ll help you find the right fit for each area of your fashion business.

So, again, welcome! I’m glad you’ve joined me and I hope you are as excited as I am to hear these conversations. 

To make sure you never miss an episode, go ahead and subscribe on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Play, or Stitcher and visit howfittingpodcast.com for show notes and links to resources mentioned in each episode. 

I’d love to hear from you as well! What questions do you have? Do you have a fitting story you’d like to share? Reach out to me anytime here.

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24 Nov 2020Sun-Protective Clothing That Saves Lives with Christie Covarrubias of Sun5000:56:31

Having lost a family member at a young age to melanoma, Christie is passionate about elevating the importance sun safe practices and annual skin checks. After an extensive career as a marketing executive with national and international brands, she decided to co-create a brand with more direct impact and personal meaning. Ultimately, the Sun50 company goal is to reduce the incidence of skin cancer with awareness, education and easy-to-implement sun protection. They are redefining sunblock clothing, so everyone can actively enjoy the sun without worry in the most beautiful eco-conscious fabrics. Christie likes to say, “We design for our customers with our planet top of mind.” Everything we do as humans today, greatly impacts our tomorrows.

Christie’s belief is you must choose an interest, whether a hobby, career or pastime, that aligns with your heart. When you do something you love, there is never enough time in the day. That’s how Christie feels about Sun50.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The story behind why Christie is so passionate about Sun50 and its mission
  • The activities and uses that Sun50 designs it’s clothing for
  • Why UPF is not only important during the summer or on vacation
  • What Sun50 does to get the Skin Cancer Foundation Seal of Recommendation for their clothing
  • What makes a fabric sun protective
  • The difference between your average shirt and a sun protective one
  • Why the Sun50 team is so crucial to the creation of each new collection
  • How they pivoted when Minnesota Fashion Week had to cancel due to COVID
  • Why Made in America is important to Sun50’s core values
  • How the Sun50 team is navigating COVID quarantines to still get new styles developed
  • How Sun50 incorporates sustainable and slow fashion manufacturing practices
  • Why Sun50 has created partnerships with other organizations that align with their mission

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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08 Dec 2020Launching a Size-Inclusive Brand with Crystal Cave of Poppy Row00:56:43

Crystal Cave is a celebrity stylist turned style educator and fashion designer. She is the Founder + Creative Director of Poppy Row, a size-inclusive, eco-conscious clothing line. 

Following her employment in branding + marketing, Crystal decided to follow her dream of becoming a celebrity stylist and worked between NY and Los Angeles on the teams behind many major brands including Taylor Swift, Usher, Willem Dafoe, Kate Upton, Mercedes, Billboard Music Awards, among many others. 

After working with women across the globe, she realized there was a need in the marketplace for functional, transitional and stylish staples that were sustainably made, which lead to the creation of Poppy Row, a Los Angeles-based line of size inclusive, modular staples made from eucalyptus, carrying sizes 2-40. 

Crystal’s style advice has been seen by over 1 billion people globally. She’s the recipient of Rent the Runway's Project Entrepreneur Class of 2018 and has been seen in Elle Magazine, Essence Magazine, ABC, NBC, CBS, Bustle, The Boston Globe, Live About, Mind Body Green, Huffington Post, The Curvy Fashionista, and many more.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How a degree in advertising and a career in styling lead into starting a fashion brand
  • The problem with the “inclusive” sizing options that many brands offer
  • How to launch with inclusive sizing without overextending your development or finances
  • How to test if it would make sense for your business to add additional sizes
  • The benefits of pre-selling
  • What kinds of marketing Crystal did during her Kickstarter campaign to test the best way to connect with customers and share her products
  • How Crystal validated her brand idea and decided on the initial pieces she launched with
  • How her styling background helped her design clothing her customers really want
  • Why marketing to a launch on Kickstarter differs from marketing other launches
  • Why Crystal sold her house and moved from New York to Los Angeles to start her line
  • What Crystal’s long-term goal for Poppy Row is

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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22 Dec 2020Debunking The Fashion Myth with Emily Harris of Mrs. Emily00:53:20

Emily challenges traditional fashion culture and encourages women to discover and protect the truest version of themselves…

  • By constructing wardrobes thoughtfully and responsibly over a long period of time
  • By dressing in ways appropriate to their roles to increase productivity
  • By working through image insecurities as a method of facing larger self-esteem issues 

Emily creates comfortable, washable skirts that allow women to transition through their many roles, as she transitions through her roles of mother, wife and entrepreneur. 

  • Her original patterns are drawn by hand
  • Her fabrics are sourced responsibly 
  • Her skirts are sewn in her home studio

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Emily started a fashion brand in the first place
  • The iterative process Emily goes through to make her skirts fit women of all sizes
  • The lies that fashion culture tells us and what Emily is doing to debunk those myths
  • Emily’s vision for her dream retail concept
  • Emily’s experience starting to work with a fair trade factory on a new accessory project
  • What fuels Emily as an entrepreneur
  • The silver lining of a time of slow social media growth
  • Emily’s tips for styling a skirt with weather appropriate footwear
  • How Emily used zero waste fashion to start a conversation about zero waste lives on her Instagram

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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05 Jan 2021Activism and Education Through Fashion with Nasheli Juliana Ortiz Gonzales of Nasheli Juliana00:55:32

Born in Caguas, Puerto Rico. With twenty years in the fashion industry, Nasheli’s design experience includes working as technical designer, draper, tailor and seamstress in couture sewing techniques for designers based in New York, Dominican Republic, Italy and Puerto Rico.

She currently performs as Chair and Associate Professor in the Fashion Design Department at Moore College of Art & Design. Beyond academia Nasheli is part of the women collective Taller Malaquita in Puerto Rico, co-founder and head designer of 22 Studio, a women-lead transdisciplinary design practice and as the owner of the fashion label Nasheli Juliana. 

Nasheli Juliana works with research of political, social and religious issues from an apparel point of view. Looking at social justice from a wearable perspective, she works with upcycling, organic and recycled fabrics. NJ has presented in some of the top fashion design platforms, featured in Next in Fashion 2020, Netflix and in magazines such as Vogue and Forbes, among others.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Nasheli came to be involved in the intersection of fashion and politics
  • The story behind Nasheli’s latest collection Appropriation that she showed at Paris Fashion Week at the beginning of 2020
  • Why Nasheli starts every collection with extensive research
  • What Nasheli’s creative process looks like
  • How Nasheli uses her runway shows to educate the viewers
  • Nasheli’s thoughts on entering political and social conversations as a brand
  • Why Nasheli thinks having a global perspective that is considerate of others will change the industry for the better
  • Nasheli’s experience being on Netflix’s Next In Fashion
  • What place Nasheli thinks fashion reality TV plays in the industry

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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19 Jan 2021Turning An Art School Hobby Into A Thriving Fashion Business with Lydia Crespo of Argaman&Defiance00:51:47

Argaman&Defiance creates everything from apparel to bedding to bridal by hand in their studio located in St. Charles, MO. They use a variety of surface designed techniques such as fabric dyeing, print making, and fabric painting to create the Argaman&Defiance collection.

Lydia Crespo attended the School of the Art Institute of Chicago (SAIC) graduating in 2010. She received the James Nelson Raymond Fellowship from SAIC upon graduation. Crespo used the funds from the fellowship to start her business, Argaman&Defiance. 

Crespo is a two time published author. Her design work as been recognized through awards, fellowships, and scholarships.

In 2018, the Argaman&Defiance studio moved to the Foundry Art Centre located in St. Charles, MO.

Argaman&Defiance collection is available in over 50 boutiques throughout the US. A&D has designed for Urban Outfitters, West Elm, Target, and Huckberry.

Crespo has featured on Show Me St. Louis, NBC Morning Chicago, WGN's Around Town Chicago, and Craft Room Crash speaking about her collection. Most recently Argaman&Defiance was highlighted in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch "Made in St. Louis", Design STL "A Day in the Life", Chicago Magazine “Best of Chicago”, Chicago Tribune “16 Things We Love”, and marthastewart.com. Listen to Crespo on S2 Episode 11 and S3 Episode 1 of the Go-Forth Podcast, and Episode 3 of the Creative Living Podcast. 

In her spare time, Crespo writes about the creative process and cultivates her creative community. She encourages everyone to stay curious. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How her interest in textile dyeing during school accidentally turned into a business
  • The art school lesson that sticks with her to this day
  • What Lydia’s creative process looks like
  • What Lydia sees as the key to blending the creativity of art with the business of design
  • How she found the ideal customers
  • How Lydia landed wholesale partnerships with dozens of boutiques as well as big box retailers like Urban Outfitters and West Elm
  • The ways that hosting workshops - in person and virtual - has impacted her business
  • What it’s like working in an arts center alongside working artists of many media
  • The differences between designing for wholesale versus direct to consumer

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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02 Feb 2021Sizing Up The Glamour Of Life’s Special Occasions with Phyllis Brasch Librach of Sydney’s Closet00:57:40

Before ending her first career 14 years ago as an award winning journalist, Phyllis Brasch Librach became inspired to trade deadlines for hemlines. She wanted to take the tears out of shopping for her daughter and all daughters, mothers, sisters, aunts and friends with real curves. In a world where thin is too in, Librach found it unfair that millions of teens and women were fashion-starved for stylish plus-size dresses to wear to life's most important celebrations.

Today, Librach is the leading plus size special occasion dress designer and online retailer for Prom, Wedding, and Formal gowns. 

Over the last decade, Sydney's Closet and its retail partners throughout the United States, Canada, South America, Europe and Australia have dressed tens of thousands of plus-size teens and women.  This internationally recognized company continues to set the bar for extraordinary plus-sized fashion. Librach said “Our glam prom and bridal designs have been seen on the dance floors in high school gyms for Prom and Homecoming, on celebrities walking the red-carpet in Hollywood and going down the aisle of churches and beaches.”

The Story Behind Sydney's Closet

In the beginning, Phyllis was just a mother anxious to wipe away her teen-age daughter's tears. Her teen-age daughter Mickey cried when she failed to find a plus-size prom dress. It broke Phyllis’ heart and made her very mad! In a world where thin is too in, Phyllis found it unfair that millions of teens and women like her daughter were fashion-starved for dressy plus-size dresses to wear to life's most important celebrations.

The reality is that one in every four high school girls in the U.S. wears a size 14 or larger. And when it comes time for once-in-a-lifetime nights like Prom and Homecoming, she doesn't want to hide her curvy figure under shapeless muumuus or evening gowns that grandma would wear. She wants a frock that rocks! (And she deserves one!)

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The personal passion and business opportunity that lead to the start of Sydney’s Closet
  • The behind the scenes of the 18 month design and development process for each Sydney’s Closet collection
  • The details that Phyllis pays attention to when designing gowns for a plus-size figure
  • What a typical day during a factory visit trip looks like for Phyllis
  • How Phyllis found her first factory
  • Why the Michelle Bridal and Tease Prom lines are only sold wholesale
  • How the wholesale and direct to consumer lines balance and inform each other
  • How Phyllis has seen the plus-size fashion industry change in the past decade since she started Sydney’s Closet
  • What has made Phyllis’ design partnership with Johnathan Kayne so fun and successful

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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16 Feb 2021Creating The Classic Dresses They Couldn’t Find with Audrey Cole and Mary Kunkle of Paris Bloom00:40:03

Audrey and Mary are sisters and co-founders of Paris Bloom (now Betty Hannah)- a dress brand that they started without prior fashion industry experience in order to create the classic styles they couldn't find elsewhere.

"Paris Bloom is inspired by our French great-grandmother, Mary Hanna. Mary Hanna grew up in the 1920s in the Michigan Upper Peninsula with big city taste and a small town budget. She designed and made her own wardrobe and was considered the most fashionable girl in town.

Today we’re proud to continue her legacy by designing vintage-inspired dresses for the modern woman. Our high-end dresses are handcrafted in America to ensure quality and value. We manufacture and ship them ourselves to save you money and avoid charging department store markups.

We love helping our customers across the U.S. and around the world find the perfect timeless dress that they feel confident and distinctive in."

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The frustrations Audrey and Mary had when shopping for dresses that lead them to want to create their own
  • How they started their brand without prior fashion industry experience
  • How they found the fashion incubator that helped them produce their first collection
  • What they’ve learned since going to their first sourcing trade show
  • The strategy they use to confirm that they are on the same page with their factory
  • What they learned from working through production issues during their first production order
  • What they noticed about the correlation between certain fabric properties and return rates
  • Why Made in the USA has been important to Paris Bloom since the start
  • What it’s like running a business together as sisters

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

  • Can you relate to Audrey and Mary going to their first sourcing show not knowing how to describe the fabric they were looking for? My Free Guide + Email Course: Finding the Right Fabric For Your Apparel Design will take the guesswork and uncertainty out of finding the perfect fabric and give you the tools to source like a professional. Get the Guide here!

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02 Mar 2021Growing A Fashion Brand Where Representation Matters with Vanessa Acosta of Wasi Clothing00:51:41

In this episode, Vanessa Acosta - the Bolivian-American business woman behind Wasi Clothing shares about why representation in fashion matters, the importance of some underappreciated aspects in the industry, and how she’s overcome challenges and grown Wasi dramatically in the past year.

Vanessa is the founder of the clothing brand Wasi Clothing. She is a Bolivian American designer living in Los Angeles and trying to better the industry by bringing more diversity, more sustainability and ethical practices in the fashion industry.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • What Vanessa experienced working in the industry as a bilingual woman of color that made her want to start a fashion business that did better
  • The values that Vanessa built Wasi upon
  • The divide between how sewers and production workers are treated and the importance they actually carry within fashion
  • The meaning behind the name Wasi
  • What Vanessa’s design process looks like and how she channels the mood of society, the Wasi community, and herself to create designs that speak to what is needed in that season
  • How Vanessa stays organized and productive in her business as she wears many hats
  • How Vanessa found the sewing studio that does her production
  • How 2020 pushed Vanessa to going full-time with Wasi
  • The huge growth Wasi saw in 2020 -- and the challenges that came with that growth
  • How Vanessa balances staying active and in conversation on social media about social and political issues with balance

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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16 Mar 2021Dressing Modern Mommas with Magda Lasota Morales of MLM Brand00:55:20

In episode 15, Magda Lasota Morales - mom of two and founder of MLM brand - shares her story of starting a fashion brand and designing the "Little Breastfeeding Dress" after failing to find breastfeeding-friendly clothing that met her standards and worked for her lifestyle as a modern mom.

"I live in Los Angeles with my husband and our two boys — Adrian and Julian. My husband and I met in college and fell in love head over heels. We got married near my hometown in Poland, surrounded by both of our families and friends from around the world, drank and ate our way through Orlando, London, and Boston before settling down in Chicago for graduate school.

After nearly a decade in the city that will forever have a piece of my heart, we made a cross-country move to sunny California. While it’s been hard to make new friends due to the pandemic and social distancing, I’m excited for this next chapter of our lives. I’ve always loved fashion and dresses, but I never imagined this passion would lead me away from my career in research to designing breastfeeding-friendly dresses.

I founded MLM because I wanted to make the fourth trimester easier for moms by creating a collection of elevated, timeless maternity pieces.

When I had to go back to work at the end of maternity leave in 2014, I couldn’t find a nursing and pumping-friendly dress that could take me through my busy day. I needed a dress that was versatile and comfortable (and long) enough to hop on a bike in the morning (which is how I got my son Adrian to daycare before heading downtown to work), and “office-y” enough to wear around the office and during presentations. This is how the idea of the #LittleBlackBreastfeedingDress came about. I described my journey to launch it here .

We are now in the midst of launching our next styles and — when I look back at how far I’ve come — I'm so incredibly proud! Though it might look like I have it together, believe me, I’m still trying to figure it all out, just like you, mama. I love being a mom, but it’s the hardest and the most amazing job I’ve ever had. If I could, I would wear a dress any day of the week, but let’s be honest — as a homemaker — most days I’m in my workout clothes serving snacks and rolling out play dough. Ha!

The ways in which women lean into motherhood have always fascinated me. Whether you are a stay-at-home mom, a work- outside-of-a-home mom, or a mom that juggles a carefully crafted combination of both, you are redefining what it means to be a modern mom.

I know firsthand how motherhood can be challenging and isolating. This is why I truly believe that sharing our stories can bring us closer together. Every woman deserves a community to lean on and I hope you’ll find a piece of it here [at MLM]."

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How her background in political science, survey research, and statistics crossed over into her starting her fashion brand.
  • The first steps Magda took to get started on development of her first dress design
  • Why USA made was important to Magda
  • Why the goal was more important than the timeline once she decided to start MLM
  • What Magda looked for in a patternmaker and factory and what challenges she face to find the right fit
  • The things she learned from developing her first dress that helped her going forward
  • The must-haves Magda designed into MLM’s little breastfeeding dress
  • How Magda gathered feedback from the market and the questions she’s asking
  • How motherhood affects how she runs her business
  • Why creating community is so important to MLM as well as for Magda personally

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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30 Mar 2021Empowering Women Through Clothing Manufacturing with Krystle Marks of Lev Apparel00:49:03

In episode 16, Krystle Marks, the founder of Lev Apparel, shares about how she started her clothing brand as part of her mission to empower women and restore dignified work to women most at risk for human trafficking.

Krystle Marks is a fashion stylist turned clothing designer. She became passionate about fighting human trafficking and saw the direct link between poverty and exploitation. The ethical production of Lev Apparel creates job opportunities for at-risk women living in New Delhi, Chicago, Vietnam, and East Asia . Each purchase restores hope, dignity, and freedom that creates a life-changing ripple for generations.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Lev empowers women through their clothing and manufacturing
  • How anti human trafficking advocacy led Krystle start Lev 
  • Why women are disproportionately affected by human trafficking
  • What Krystle did as first steps to start Lev
  • How Krystle found the right factory partner 
  • How Krystle uses her styling background to design pieces specifically for the 5 common body shapes of women
  • The fashion industry’s effect on poverty
  • The impact Kystle wants Lev to make on the women who wear Lev and the women who make Lev
  • The ways that Lev educates their community on the impact their purchasing choices make
  • Tips to be intentional with your clothing purchases so you can shop sustainable and ethical within your budget

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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13 Apr 2021The Quest For The Perfect Night’s Sleepwear with Alessandra Corona of River Left00:52:04

In episode 17, Alessandra Corona, founder and designer behind the sustainable sleepwear brand River Left, shares how her personal search for the perfect nightgown snowballed into a full-fledged fashion brand and how that sometimes-messy process has stretched her knowledge, grown her network, and even landed her in major publications less than half a year after the brand launched.

Alessandra founded River Left after realizing that the options for women’s sleepwear were either overtly sexual or unflattering. She set out to design classic sleepwear meant for women who see themselves as empowered, intellectual and discerning. The environment is at the forefront of her decision-making. Each item is intentionally designed with a timeless silhouette to be anti-fast-fashion and to last for seasons to come.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How the personal need for a luxurious, comfortable nightgown snowballed into a whole sleepwear brand
  • How Alessandra’s background in industrial design helped her with the development and production process for apparel
  • How long the development of her first collection really took and why
  • How Alessandra’s values of sustainability and garment longevity affected her design and development choices
  • How Alessandra made the decision to turn River Left into a business instead of just a personal project
  • How Alessandra gained the confidence to learn new things for her business
  • How Alessandra reached out to people in her network for mentorship and help with the things she didn’t know how to do
  • What Alessandra did to educate herself on fabrics
  • How River Left got featured in Vogue and Fast Company less than six months after launching.

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

  • River Left website
  • River Left email
  • River Left on Instagram
  • Alessandra on LinkedIn
  • Are you looking to further your own education on fabrics and sourcing? My Free Guide + Email Course: Finding the Right Fabric For Your Apparel Design will take the guesswork and uncertainty out of finding the perfect fabric and give you the tools to source like a professional. Get the Guide here!

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27 Apr 2021Made-To-Order Classic Cocktail Dressing with Sheri Turnbow of Bespoke Southerly01:09:50

Sheri Turnbow, the entrepreneur behind Bespoke Southerly, joins me in episode 18 to talk about how she built the women's made-to-order special occasion brand to provide women with the personalized experience, quality finishes, and investment pieces that they’ll want to wear to countless events.

Sheri Turnbow is the Founder of Bespoke Southerly, a collection of customizable cocktail and special occasion wear that enables women to co-create their apparel by choosing the colors and details they want, like adding pockets, trims and hem length in one-inch increments. Women can personalize timeless silhouettes to truly reflect their individual style.  

Although she began her career in fashion and retail, prior to launching Bespoke Southerly Sheri worked at leading non-profit organizations partnering with corporations including Apple, Coca-Cola, Disney and Royal Caribbean Cruises, Ltd., raising millions of dollars for wildlife conservation and sustainable business solutions. 

Never one to follow the trends, but with the knowledge of what looks good on her, Sheri invests in quality pieces that she can cherish season after season. Through Bespoke Southerly, she wants to give all women access to beautifully-made luxury apparel, made to order (and eventually made to measure) just for them, to elevate the online shopping experience, allow personalization for every item in their closet, and inspire confidence in their appearance. Bespoke Southerly is made to order in the USA by domestic artisans and manufacturers that take pride in their work. And, made to order apparel is more environmentally friendly which speaks to Sheri’s previous work in sustainability and was important for the brand, which produces less waste in manufacturing. 

In addition to designing and running the day to day of the business for Bespoke Southerly, she enjoys trying new recipes on the weekends, hiking, riding horses, and couch time with her husband and two cats while enjoying a classic or newly released film. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Sheri modeled Bespoke Southerly after the way men’s suiting is customizable
  • How Sheri worked her network to find the right people to help her start her first collection
  • Why Sheri considers herself an entrepreneur and business person more than a designer
  • Why a made on demand manufacturing model made sense for Sheri’s values and business
  • What Sheri wished she had known when she was finding her team and factory
  • How Sheri stays grounded as an entrepreneur and keeps herself from burning out
  • What Sheri’s creative process looks like
  • Sheri’s take on the future of formal fashion after covid 

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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11 May 2021Giving Yourself Grace As A Fashion Business Owner with Bria Evans of 31|25 the Label00:53:19

Bria Evans, the owner and designer of 31|25 THE LABEL, joins me in episode 19 to share what she’s learned about running a fashion business, staying grounded in her purpose, and how she’s giving herself grace in the process.

31|25–THE LABEL is a Women’s clothing brand where all garments are made-to-order. Bria's been designing since the age of 10 and went on to pursue an educational career at the Art Institute of Dallas. She graduated in 2016 with her Bachelor of Fine Arts in Fashion Design. 

In 2017, Evans launched Dignified Women’s Apparel where she primarily catered to high school girls looking for custom prom dresses. In 2018, she received an invitation to show a collection in New York Fashion Week September 2019. 

After showing her first collection as a label, Evans decided it was time for a brand refresh and she relaunched as 31|25–THE LABEL in June 2020. Currently, she is working on more items to release for her Spring/Summer 2021 collection. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Bria started her business
  • Why she rebranded in 2020 in order to grow her business on her own terms
  • What Bria’s doing now as a solo business owner to prepare for adding team members in future
  • Why Bria’s been going back to the basics of the design and development process
  • How Bria gives herself grace and space to learn and grow as a solo business owner
  • Why it’s important to have hobbies that don’t look like your work
  • How Bria batches her work and creates a routine to keep her days interesting
  • How to ask for feedback and accept criticism constructively

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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25 May 2021Sustainable Style For Every Day with Ashley Klein of Akala00:43:49

Ashley Klein, the founder of sustainable brand Akala, joins me for episode 20 to talk about how and why she started her own brand after working in the fashion industry across varying roles from design to e-commerce.

Ashley lives in Seattle with her husband, with baby on-the-way! Akala is currently her side hustle, as she works full time in addition to being an entrepreneur, in hopes of growing Akala to a full time operation. 

Ashley studied Fashion Design at Purdue University and the Fashion Institute of Technology, and she has spent close to a decade across the fashion and e-commerce industries. Her goal is to create a new kind of fashion business that fills a gap so many customers are looking for: versatile, inclusive, and sustainable fashion.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Ashley wanted to start her own brand after working in the fashion industry in many roles from design, to marketing, to styling.
  • What Ashley researched before starting her brand
  • Why product development was more of a challenge than Ashley expected
  • How Ashley balances sustainability and affordability within Akala
  • The sustainable textile innovations Ashley’s excited to incorporate into her brand
  • What inspires Ashley’s designs
  • How Ashley found factories that offered low minimums and aligned her values

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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08 Jun 2021Versatile, Camera-Ready Clothing You Could Sleep In with Xi Chen of Sonderlier00:48:23

In episode 21, Xi Chen, the founder and designer of Sonderlier, shares how she started her fashion brand on the idea that comfortable clothes should still be cute. She's not alone in that belief as shown by the Kickstarter campaign for her first collection that reached 212% funding.

Xi Chen is the Founder and Designer of Sonderlier, a sustainable clothing brand offering women camera-ready clothing they could sleep in. Even though Xi dreamed of fashion design since she was a little girl, she initially pursued a “more practical” career as a professor in engineering. After struggling for years to find clothes that would allow her to be comfortable yet still feel inspired and put-together, Xi discovered that many other women had the same problem. In 2019, she decided to fill this gap and finally pursue her designer dream.

Xi has found that her background provides a unique perspective in her design. She enjoys combining her love for fashion with a focus on functionality that allows the pieces to fit seamlessly into everyday life. In March 2021, Xi launched Sonderlier’s first collection on Kickstarter, which was successfully funded in under 24 hours. She has also been featured on Nasdaq as a woman founder disrupting her industry.

Through Sonderlier, Xi hopes to create clothing that serves women’s everyday wellbeing so that they feel beautiful and inspired whether it’s a special event or a regular Tuesday.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The first steps Xi took to turn her fashion idea into a brand
  • What Xi thought a fashion designer’s job was versus what she learned a designer really does
  • Why versatile clothing that can change shape is important to Xi
  • What Xi did during the three months that her product development was delayed due to covid
  • The freedoms and challenges that come with being a one person business
  • Xi’s advice on building a community and audience before even having a finished product
  • What contributed to Sonderlier’s successful Kickstarter campaign reaching 212% funded
  • The new skills Xi has learned as an entrepreneur
  • What Xi wished she knew when she first started Sonderlier

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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22 Jun 2021Constructing Fashion From Costumes To Coats with Elizabeth Williams of Coat Check Chicago00:54:32

In episode 22, I talk with Elizabeth Williams - founder, designer, and patternmaker behind the outerwear brand Coat Check Chicago. Elizabeth shares her journey from costume seamstress to New York fashion designer, to fashion professor and how the skills she gained through all these experiences now help her run her own brand.

Elizabeth Williams resides in Chicago with her husband and three children. She studied Fashion Design at Parsons School of Design and Theatre at the University of Colorado. Much of her early career was spent behind the sewing machine re-creating historical garments for the stage. During those years she became increasingly shocked by the poor quality put out by fast fashion chains and exploitation of sweatshop labor while admiring vintage garments of the past and their quality construction. 

For the past ten years Liz has worked as an educator in the field of Fashion Design, instructing students in patternmaking, draping, sewing, design, and fashion theory at Columbia College Chicago. 

In 2014, Liz launched Coat Check Chicago a women's outerwear brand, focussing on longevity through it's classic styling and quality construction. All of her coats and jackets are ethically Made in Chicago. Liz was recently quoted in the New York Times in the article "Don't Count Out The Cloth Coat" and was named a "Power Player" by Michigan Avenue Magazine.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • What prompted Elizabeth to go back to school for fashion design after working a career in costuming
  • The differences and similarities between designing and making a garment for stage versus ready to wear
  • How Elizabeth’s strong sewing background helped her turn a New York internship into a full-time position
  • What surprised Elizabeth about fittings in the fashion industry versus fittings in costume design
  • Why Elizabeth decided to start Coat Check Chicago
  • What aspects of her business she does herself and which parts she outsources to other Chicago area professionals
  • Elizabeth’s tips for choosing a coat style and styling your coats with different outfits
  • The special reason why Made in USA is important to Elizabeth
  • How Elizabeth navigates fabric minimum order quantities as a small brand 
  • What the Chicago apparel manufacturing scene is like
  • Elizabeth’s thoughts on the significance and future of coat fashion

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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06 Jul 2021Creating Reciprocal Relationships As A Vertically Integrated Brand with Rachel Faller of tonlé01:00:19

Episode 23 is an honest and insightful conversation with Rachel Faller, co-creator and Creative Director of tonlé, about changing the incentives of the traditional fashion system, zero-waste design, and building reciprocal relationships that are equitable for all involved.

Rachel Faller is an entrepreneur by trade and a creative at heart. She dedicates most of her time to rectifying harm within the garment industry using a systemic approach- encouraging people to think about the root of systemic injustice and tackling these issues at their core rather than simply treating the symptoms. Rachel is a co-creator of tonlé – a zero waste, ethical and sustainable fashion line that is both a brand and a manufacturer. 

Alongside a small but mighty 60-person team, tonlé is setting a new standard for the fashion industry: That is, to create a business where everyone benefits and thrives. Tonlé believes in horizontal leadership structures and designing from materials that others consider waste, as well as addressing the root causes of the industry’s problems: namely, capitalism, colonialism, misogyny and white supremacy. 

Rachel is also a co-founder at Reclaim Collaborative, and writes at Just Fashion, a medium publication that explores the intersection of justice and fashion. Rachel’s personal and community care practices include crafting, painting, mending, gardening, and foraging. She says: “The process of making something or growing something, while in some ways feels like an act of self-preservation or self-reliance — often reminds me of how many people I depend on for my daily existence. I’m reminded of the labor, and hopefully, love, that went into my food and clothing. These practices ground me in reciprocity and the knowledge that, individually — we can’t do much. But collectively, we are powerful.”

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Rachel got into the fashion industry even though it was something she never wanted to do
  • How Rachel got connected with artisans in Cambodia
  • The truth about the traceability of materials and labor at different stages of fashion supply chains
  • How the typical fashion industry systems put all the responsibility and risk on factories while giving the brands all the benefit 
  • Why being a vertically integrated brand completely changes the incentives and relationships for tonlé compared to typical fashion brands
  • How being vertically integrated has created a more harmonious relationship between design and production and a better customer experience
  • How to approach a factory and communicate with respect and fairness
  • The fine line between white saviorism and truly equitable relationships within ethical fashion
  • How you as a customer can incentivize brands for either good or bad
  • Tonlé’s approach to zero-waste design
  • Is deadstock as sustainable as it is perceived as?

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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20 Jul 2021Embracing Your Unique Heritage and Creativity with Bhavana Jain of BHAV00:53:39

In episode 24, Bhavana Jain shares about her entrepreneurial journey and how she celebrates and shares her cultural heritage through her women's fashion brand BHAV.

Bhavana Jain is CEO and lead designer of BHAV. BHAV is a women's contemporary clothing brand based in Chicago, IL. The line is inspired by the rich diversity of South Asian heritage fabrics, and features sophisticated and flattering ready-to-wear pieces tailored to fit the daily lives of real, modern women. She also practices pharmacy as a Clinical Pharmacist at a local hospital outside the city. In her spare time she loves to explore the city of Chicago, travel, watch movies and loves spending time with family and friends.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • What brought Bhavana to the fashion industry
  • How (and why) Bhavana’s mission and branding for her business evolved from when she first started
  • Why knowing your customer is so important
  • What Bhavana has learned running her brand and the advice she’d give to new designers
  • How Bhavana celebrates her multi-cultural heritage through fashion
  • What to do when your parents don’t understand what you do or why you’re pursuing entrepreneurship
  • How Bhavana sources her Indian-inspired textiles 
  • What’s in the works for BHAV’s next collection coming fall 2021

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

Bhavana was so kind to share a discount code with listeners! Use code ALISON20 for 20% off your BHAV order.

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14 Sep 2021Making Loved Clothes Last with Alexis Giger of Little Cliff00:50:54

In episode 25, Alexis Giger talks about her career in fashion from design school, to working for fashion brands big and small, to starting her own mending business during the pandemic in order to make loved clothes last.

Alexis Giger is a fashion designer and textile mender based in St. Louis, MO. She graduated in 2013 from Washington University in St. Louis with a BFA in Fashion Design. She gained industry experience while working for Anthropologie, the St. Louis Fashion Fund, and Summersalt. During the 2020 pandemic, she focused her energy into mask making, which evolved into her sustainable fashion and mending business, Little Cliff. She currently runs her small business while working at Soft Surroundings as an Associate Designer. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • What Alexis’ experience was like going to fashion school and then getting jobs in a city that isn’t considered a fashion hub
  • The different focus between fashion school and working in the industry
  • Eye-opening things Alexis learned from being in fittings with technical designers
  • What made Alexis turn her pandemic hobby into a business
  • Alexis’ favorite mending techniques
  • Where Alexis finds denim pieces to mend
  • How Alexis balances a day job as a fashion designer and her mending business Little Cliff

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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28 Sep 2021Inspiring Wanderlust for the Petite Romantic with Nics Asawasudsakorn of Lovanie00:49:43

In episode 26, Nics Asawasudsakorn shares about launching her petite-focused brand Lovanie and what inspired her to start a slow fashion brand inspired by wanderlust. 

Nics is the founder of LOVANIE, a slow fashion brand for petite women. Lovanie pieces are designed to fit women 5'4" and under and are made locally in Seattle from eco-friendly materials.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Nics’ journey from shopping fast fashion to starting a slow fashion brand
  • The accelerator program that helped Nics launch her brand
  • Nic’s vision for Lovanie at the start and how it evolved
  • How Nics decided on the sizing for Lovanie
  • What research Nics did before designing her first collection
  • How Nics built an audience and newsletter list before even launching her collection
  • The ways Lovanie incorporates sustainability
  • How long it took to launch Lovanie from concept to product launch

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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12 Oct 2021Wearing Clothes (and Running a Business) Out Loud with Julia Navarro of wear cOLor01:01:27

In Episode 27, I talk with Julia Navarro of Wear Color about the life motto that inspired her brand and how she’s created a business that fits her creativity, strengths, and values.

Starting in 2020 in the midst of the pandemic, wear cOLor is a clothing brand that allows for everyone to break the fashion rules. Wear white after Labor Day, black with brown, neon in the winter, pastels in the fall. We are all fighting the good fight, and we're in this together. Let's do it together, Out Loud, in cOLor.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • What skills learned from previous jobs gave Julia a head start on running her own business
  • Where Julia sources her one of a kind vintage textiles
  • How Julia runs (and named) her business after her motto of Living Out Loud
  • What inspires Wear Color collections
  • How to balance personal creative passion with business data
  • How Julia found “her people” for Wear Color in a different place than she expected
  • How to define success for yourself and your brand
  • When it might be the right fit to work with a factory, hire a seamstress, or sew production yourself

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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26 Oct 2021How Tee-shirts Can Change Lives with Meghan Forest Farmer of The Bright Factory00:53:09

In Episode 28, Meghan Forest Farmer shares her journey as a stylist turned ethical factory owner and how she founded The Bright Factory to restore dignity to formerly incarcerated women.

Meghan Forest Farmer has woven her way through the fashion pipeline over the past 10 years, but currently works as a fashion stylist, both on photo shoot sets, and in the wardrobes of her personal styling closet. After learning of the unfortunate, darker side of the fashion industry, specifically within garment manufacturing, she made sustainability and ethical fashion a mission for her personal life, and to educate her styling clients on. 

While volunteering with a local organization, visiting incarcerated women, she learned of the great difficulty of finding dignified work after incarceration. She made the connection between the fashion industry stealing dignity from the garment workers it exploits, and women in her own city who deserved to have their dignity restored. The idea for her newest business venture was formed; The Bright Factory. A cut and sew factory in Fort Worth, TX, creating sustainable t-shirts, created by the hands of women being given another chance. 

When she is not on a photoshoot set, or running a business, she enjoys being a goofball with her amazing husband, karaoke and dance parties, and serving her community and church. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • What lead Meghan to start a clothing factory
  • How tee-shirts can change lives
  • How our society simultaneously idolizes and and diminishes those who work in fashion
  • How Meghan is working to restore dignity to formerly incarcerated women through The Bright Factory
  • Why The Bright Factory isn’t taking on outside production yet
  • How Meghan responds to conversations about why ethical fashion is more expensive
  • The ways The Bright Factory puts people first 
  • Where Meghan found her support system and team of mentors 
  • What the ethical fashion community is like from a new-to-the-industry perspective
  • What The Bright Factory will be doing with their Kickstarter crowdfunding in the next six months

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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09 Nov 2021Equality, Power, and Functional Pockets For All with Kimberly Borges and Miriam McDonald of PWR WMN01:01:56

In episode 29, best friends and PWR WMN co-founders Kimberly Borges and Miriam McDonald share how they started a blazer company to “decorate the confidence” of working women - no matter what that work looks like - and to encourage women to wear their femininity with power and, of course, plenty of pockets.

PWR WMN was created by two best friends who wanted a simple thing: pockets in our blazers. We grew tired of never having the tools we needed to be 100% ready for business at all times, because we never had the pockets for those tools. We wanted clothes that helped us portray ourselves like the Power Women we are, but also helped us close that deal because we were ready, so we created PWR WMN. Our clothes don’t hide your femininity to make you look strong or business-like, they highlight the strength our femininity brings to the table, and the extra pockets don’t hurt either!

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How college friends Kimberly and Miriam went from car sales to starting a fashion brand together
  • Why Kimberly and Miriam felt like their work clothes were holding them back and what they decided to do about it
  • How our clothing reflects our power
  • How they decided on blazers as PWR WMN’s focus
  • How Kimberly and Miriam designed and developed their first PWR WMN collection when neither of them had a background in design
  • How they found their factory
  • Where they got the courage to start a business in an industry they knew nothing about
  • Why Kimberly and Miriam aren’t afraid to fail
  • How motherhood and being a stay-at-home-mom changed Kimberly’s viewpoint
  • How to have the confidence to call yourself a founder or business owner
  • What it's like being best friends and co-founders

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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23 Nov 2021Adjusting Your Swimsuit Not Your Body with Alexa McNeal of Cedar & Sand Swim00:58:57

In episode 30, Alexa McNeal of Cedar & Sand Swimwear (now Bold Beach Swim) shares why and how she launched a swimwear brand in October 2020 where every suit is made to adjust to your body - not the other way around.

Alexa has been designing adjustable swimwear for every body type since October 2020 when she launched her brand Cedar & Sand Swimwear.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The frustrations with swimwear that led Alexa to start her own swimwear line
  • How she gauged interest in her designs and brand idea with an Instagram story
  • How she found her factory
  • What Alexa brought to the first meeting with her factory
  • How Alexa tested the fit of her designs on multiple body types
  • How Alexa launched 7 suits, landed a wholesale deal, and showed at her first trade show -- all in the first year of business
  • How Alex balances doing all the things as a solo-entrepreneur
  • Alexa’s big goals for Cedar & Sand Swimwear

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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07 Dec 2021Embracing the Bodies of Strong-Shouldered Women with Daron Linton of Broads the Label00:55:50

In episode 31, Broads the Label founder Daron Linton shares how she turned a life-long clothing struggle into a fashion business.

Daron Linton spent most of her life thinking that sleeves are bullshit. A sleeved shirt, dress, or jacket has meant a day of tugging, puckering, and restriction all because genetics (and a love for being active) handed her a pair of wider-than-average shoulders. 

Having lived in 4 season climates her whole life, cutting sleeves out and only wearing tank tops was not an option, so living with uncomfortable and unflattering clothing was inevitable – that is until Broads the Label was born. 

More than anything, Broads the Label embraces the bodies of strong-shouldered women. All of our clothing is tailored to women who always find themselves frustrated with the fit of the shoulders on a typical sleeved shirt, dress, and jacket. Our broad shoulders often mean tugging, puckering, and restriction. 

Broads the Label is always comfortably and reliably fitted for broad shoulders, pairs sophistication with simplicity, and is created to last. Finally, broad shouldered women are getting their sleeves back.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • About the moment Daron decided she needed to start Broads the Label
  • The small-business skills that really helped her start her own brand
  • The power of well-fitting clothes
  • What Daron did to start her brand without a background in the fashion industry
  • The advice Daron would give to new fashion start-ups based on what she’s learned
  • How Daron knew she had found the right patternmaker
  • Where Daron found her factory and other vendors
  • Why Daron had to start with owning her own body shape before she could be proud of launching Broads the Label

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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21 Dec 2021Lessons Learned as a NYC Sleepwear Startup with Elizabeth Frenchman of Fichu Bedwear00:59:25

In episode 32, Elizabeth Frenchman shares what worked and what didn't about starting a sleepwear brand in her home town of NYC after retiring from a career in graphic design.

Elizabeth Frenchman is an apparel designer who adheres to the “less is more” philosophy as well as G-d being in the details. She was born and raised in Ohio but escaped to earn a BA in printmaking from Rutgers in New Jersey. This led to a long varied graphic design career in Boston and New York. An MLS from Pratt facilitated a switch to architectural materials librarianship. Many courses at both FIT and Central Saint Martins (London) prepared her for launching a sleepwear line, Fichu Bedwear.

In architecture, in fashion, in graphics, the designer must listen to her materials. Design serves a purpose: to shelter, to clothe, to mediate harmoniously with nature yet it harness nature for knowledge, beauty and utility.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Elizabeth started a fashion brand after a career in graphic design
  • Why she chose sleepwear as her product category
  • How Elizabeth approaches design
  • When it might be better to work with a one-stop-shop factory versus outsourcing each step to different vendors
  • How Elizabeth made connections with patternmakers, fabric suppliers, and factories
  • How being in NYC shaped how Elizabeth started Fichu Bedwear
  • What Elizabeth wished she’d known about selling before starting Fichu Bedwear
  • The advice Elizabeth would give to new designers starting a brand
  • The advice her FIT professor gave her that she didn’t follow, but wished she did

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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04 Jan 2022Workwear Designed for Community with KaLeena Thomas of J. Margaret Weaver00:50:33

In episode 33, KaLeena Thomas talks about what was missing in her career wardrobe, how entrepreneurship and community go hand in hand, and the meaning behind her brand J. Margaret Weaver.

After more than a decade of struggling to find classic, high quality, and easy-to-care for professional work clothing and accessories, KaLeena Thomas decided to stop shopping and start the solution. In January 2021, she launched J. Margaret Weaver, a brand specializing in simple and smart work clothing and accessories for women. J. Margaret Weaver is committed to promoting ethical, US-based production, size inclusivity, and easy-to-care for pieces. Her vision is to empower and simplify life for women by streamlining the first decision you make every day – what am I going to wear?

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The problems KaLeena experienced with work clothes during her 10 years in big consulting
  • Why entrepreneurship can look very different from business to business
  • The technologies that have lowered the barrier to entry of entrepreneurship
  • What research KaLeena did before starting J. Margaret Weaver
  • The meaning behind the names of J. Margaret Weaver designs
  • How KaLeena built community around her brand
  • What the design and development process of her first piece looked like
  • What helped KaLeena move past the fear of failure in starting a business
  • How KaLeena found her factory and what she said when she first reached out to them
  • What KaLeena has found about the importance of in-person selling in age of online shopping

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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18 Jan 2022Growing a Slow Fashion Brand in an Online World with 22yr Old Designer Natalia Trevino Amaro of NTA00:55:17

In episode 34, Natalia Trevino Amaro shares how she’s grown her slow fashion namesake label from a side project out of her parent’s midwest home to her full-time job since graduating from FIT in 2020. 

Natalia is a 22 year old fashion designer & content creator focusing on slow fashion and sustainability.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Natalia got interested in sustainable and ethical fashion
  • How Natalia started her brand out of her parent’s house right after graduating in the middle of a pandemic
  • Why sustainability is important to Natalia and how she incorporates that into her brand
  • How Natalia gained a following on social media
  • Natalia’s approach to building an online community and what that has meant for her business
  • How Natalia balances content creation with designing, sewing, and running the business
  • How to avoid burnout as a solo business owner who loves what they do
  • What it was like showing a collection during NYFW 
  • What Natalia’s design process looks like
  • Natalia’s tips on hiring people and what doing so has allowed her to do
  • What Natalia learned about pricing and finances during her first year of business
  • What is next for Natalia Trevino Amaro

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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01 Feb 2022Creating Meaning As A Mission-Based Small-Batch Factory with Terri Stipanovich of The Collective Thread01:01:00

In episode 35, Terri Stipanovich, founder and CEO of small-batch manufacturing factory The Collective Thread, shares how her background in the non-profit world and mission to empower women to earn a living wage led her to start The Collective Thread as a resource for emerging designers, training ground for industrial sewing, and a place for all to find meaning in creating something beautiful.

In 2010 the founder of Faith that Works, now The Collective Thread, Terri Stipanovich traveled to East Africa on a vision trip. Terri was heartbroken when she saw refugee Somali women facing severe poverty and oppression. During that trip, she made a decision to start an organization that would empower refugee women both in her hometown of St. Louis, Mo, and in the Somali region of East Africa. After some years of working with women in both areas, she realized economic empowerment was the only sustainable solution to the issues she was passionately working to solve. At that point, The Collective Thread began to offer free sewing classes, which then led to living wage jobs for women both in Africa and St. Louis.

It wasn't long before some St. Louis apparel brands approached Terri asking her team to take on their sewing needs. She knew this was a potential business opportunity that could fund the mission she had spent 10 years developing. But she needed experts in commercial sewing to succeed.

Terri grew her team and expanded to a beautiful historic space in The Garment District in Downtown St. Louis. They purchased state-of-the-art equipment to increase their free sewing education classes to the community and to offer top-notch product development and small-batch manufacturing to companies in need of these services. They grew their management staff by hiring aspiring fashion designers and creating a winning team that has served over 50 brands fulfilling apparel design and manufacturing needs—all while staying true to The Collective Thread’s mission to empower vulnerable women through new skills and a living wage job.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How working in non-profit world led Terri to into cut & sew manufacturing
  • The mission that began it all
  • How The Collective Thread got connected with the refugee community in Saint Louis
  • The real cost of training new sewers and how The Collective Thread can afford to make it their focus
  • Why a skilled sewing workforce is so important yet so undervalued
  • Who makes up the team at The Collective Thread and who they work with
  • The questions all designers should come prepared to answer when they first meet their factory and why those questions are important
  • How The Collective Thread learned the hard way about needing to focus down and say no to certain client work
  • The one thing that can make or break your relationship with your factory
  • What things would make your brand the perfect fit to produce with The Collective Thread
  • The biggest challenge that Terri faces in growing The Collective Thread

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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15 Feb 2022For The Love Of Design and Custom Bridal with Janna Volmert of JM Couturière01:01:01

In episode 36, Janna Volmert of JM Couturière walks us through her journey in custom bridal and how the experience is special and significant for both her and her clients. 

JM Couturière is a bridal and formalwear design service offering custom gown design, re-design, and intense alterations. Utilizing couture and commercial techniques, JM Couturière can make your dream gown a reality or perfect an existing gown. 

Janna, owner/designer, holds a Fashion Design and Product Development Degree from Stephens College and has been creating gowns for 10+ years for a wide range of clients.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Janna’s background in the bridal industry
  • Why Janna initially got burnt out in fashion and took a mundane desk job
  • How Janna’s love for design spurred her to get back into fashion as a side business
  • The significance of custom-made clothing 
  • The misconception most people have about custom bridal
  • The step-by-step process that Janna takes her clients through to make a custom gown
  • Janna’s tips for making sure her and her clients are on the same page about the dress they have envisioned
  • What made Janna take the leap to start her own bridal business
  • Where there might be value in designs that don’t sell well
  • How Janna knew it was time to quit her day job
  • The client reaction that makes all the time and effort worth it

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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01 Mar 2022The Fun & The Reality of Fashion Entrepreneurship with Laura Briggs of The Shortlist00:51:24

In episode 37, Laura Briggs talks about the fun, work, challenges, and rewards of starting her petite fashion brand, The Shortlist, without any fashion industry experience. 

The Shortlist creates gorgeous, limited edition fashion exclusively for petites.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Laura went from not even knowing how clothes were made to running a fashion brand
  • What Laura did before she even began thinking about design
  • Why branding is so important
  • How Laura found a designer to work with and how she knew she’d found the right one
  • Tips for communicating with a designer when you don’t know the industry lingo
  • What Laura found was missing in the petite women’s fashion market
  • Why presales weren’t the right fit for The Shortlist
  • How Laura navigates pricing and how she plans on lowering costs while keeping quality high
  • The importance of color
  • The hardest part of entrepreneurship and why it is still so rewarding

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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15 Mar 2022Using Your Gifts To Create A Brand Image with Marquita Chanel L’Vena Collection00:53:55

In episode 38, Marquita Chanel of L’Vena Collection shares how she curates her brand image and makes a statement with her handmade jewelry and refashioned vintage creations while staying true to who she is.

Marquita Chanel is the owner of Intended Images, LLC which focuses on bringing out the very best in women in regards to image, self-presentation, and personal style. Her clientele consists of women in leadership, C-suite, entrepreneurs, authors, speakers, etc.

Marquita is also the owner of L’Vena Collection, LLC, a custom handmade jewelry business named after her late sister LaVena (Angel) Gates.  Every piece of jewelry in the collection is named after a woman that was influential in Angel’s and Marquita’s life. L’Vena Collection is not just about fabulous handcrafted jewelry, it’s about celebrating the accomplishments and beauty of women. In September 2019, L’Vena Collection expanded its product base to include re-worked vintage, handmade, and sourced clothing. Women that wear pieces from L’Vena Collection make powerful statements without speaking.

Marquita Chanel is a graduate of Webster University with a M.A. in Management & Leadership.  She received her B.S. in Business Administration from Harris-Stowe State University.

In addition to her businesses, Marquita Chanel is a Lead IT Program Manager for the Next NGA West Program, a $2 billion dollar construction project in St. Louis City. People are always stunned when she tells them that! They always say, “You’re in IT? You should be in New York or Chicago working in fashion!” Her response is, “I’d rather use my gifts at home and then share them with the world.” It is her goal to contribute to St. Louis being the fashion hub that it once was! The movement has begun, and she is here for it!

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Marquita got started in fashion, jewelry, and image consulting
  • Marquita’s approach to style
  • Marquita’s go-to wardrobe staple that makes an elegant statement with any outfit
  • How Marquita sources vintage pieces to rework for her collection
  • How to know when a design is done
  • What Marquita does to overcome the fear of putting her work out there to sell
  • How Marquita has built a strong and recognizable brand with L’Vena Collection - and how that allows her to explore opportunities and creativity while staying true to her vision
  • How her faith shapes how she sees her talents and influenced her decision to start L’Vena Collection
  • Why Marquita is excited to be part of the Saint Louis fashion community

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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29 Mar 2022Keeping It Cute, Comfortable, And Socially Conscious For Teen Girls with Rachel Thebault and Neda Talebian Funk of Woodley + Lowe00:52:45

In episode 39, Rachel Thebault and Neda Talebian Funk, the co-founders of Woodley + Lowe, talk about how they keep it cute, comfortable, and socially conscious for their inclusive and sustainable Gen Z fashion brand.

Neda Talebian Funk comes from a background in start-ups, fitness and retail companies. She began her career as an equity research analyst for Bear Stearns, covering the retail industry with a focus on teen apparel retailers. She then transitioned into direct roles at several retail companies until she decided to take the entrepreneurial plunge and start her own business.

In 2011, she co-founded FITiST, the first one-stop membership and bookings platform for boutique fitness, which led to the creation of FITiST Labs, a strategic and brand consultancy where she also served as an advisor to lifestyle and e-commerce businesses such as Lively and Jetblack. Today, as cofounder of Woodley + Lowe, Neda oversees marketing, technology and Partnerships. Neda currently resides in New York City with her husband and three sons. 

Armed with a built-in focus group (three daughters, ages 16, 12, and 8), Rachel Thebault co-Founded Woodley + Lowe in 2019, where she oversees design & production and visual marketing for the business. Prior to founding Woodley + Lowe, she honed her entrepreneurial operating experience through the retail bakery she founded and ran for 12 years—Tribeca Treats. Beloved city-wide, Tribeca Treats served tens of thousands of clients, including a roster of celebrities and major corporations. While running the bakery, Rachel also authored a cookbook, which was published by Random House in 2008. Prior to that, Rachel jump started her career in finance, spending seven years in investment banking covering high growth retail & restaurant companies. Rachel resides in New York City with her family.

Rachel and Neda met through a mutual friend in 2019, and the two discovered a niche in the market that remained untapped. Neda and Rachel recognized a void in the Gen-Z market, a lack in reliable sizing, and knew it was hard for brands to find a middle ground between teen and adult wardrobe. When they realized no one was targeting Gen Z directly despite the market growing into their spending power, they created Woodley + Lowe. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • What gap Rachel and Neda saw in the teen girl apparel market that sparked the idea for Woodley + Lowe
  • How Rachel and Neda’s previous entrepreneurial experiences helped them in starting their apparel brand.
  • The importance of knowing your customer
  • Woodley + Lowe’s innovative approach to sizing
  • The brand pillars that Woodley + Lowe is based on and how those values are lived out
  • Why Rachel and Neda think community is so important for Woodley + Lowe
  • Why marketing and brand awareness are their biggest challenge
  • How their mission and values help Rachel and Neda stay focused on what is important and help them make decisions
  • Tips for marketing a brand where the end customer isn’t always the one making the purchase
  • Why Woodley + Lowe is about more than just the clothes

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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12 Apr 2022Bringing Vintage Beauty to Modern Peculiar Souls with Victoria Cates of Potion2300:52:39

In episode 40, Victoria Cates gives us a peek into the creative dollhouse of her whimsical, vintage-inspired slow fashion brand: Potion23. 

Victoria Cates, Owner and Designer of Potion23, was born and raised in New York, earned a degree in fashion design at the Beverly Hills Design Institute in Los Angeles, and now calls St. Louis home. Victoria’s love for vintage fashion and passion for art and history has led to the birth of her own fashion line–Potion23. Victoria is driven to create by her desire for wearable silhouettes, unique prints, and her very particular taste. 

Potion23 is a collection of whimsical, vintage-inspired fashion and is heavily influenced by the elegance of the 1930s and 1940s. Potion23 revives the art deco magic of these historical styles and rejuvenates them with playful modern prints and bespoke hand-embroidery for a truly individual look. Each design is an heirloom of the future, rediscovering the path of slow fashion and the pursuit of quality, locality, and sustainability. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Victoria’s passion for art turned into a fashion career
  • What prompted Victoria to start her own brand
  • How Victoria designs pieces that are heavily influenced by vintage and historical details without making it costumey
  • What inspired her upcoming collection
  • How Victoria balances designing for her creative vision versus designing what sells
  • How sustainability plays a role in the kind of textiles Victoria uses for her collections
  • The difference Victoria has seen between in-person and online selling - and what that does for her business
  • The out-of-the-box places that Victoria has found to sell her collection and connect with her customers
  • Victoria’s tips for finding your customer

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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26 Apr 2022Learning to Be Yourself and Make Sustainable Fashion with Lucy Murray of Luluna00:49:38

In episode 41, Lucy Murray of the streetwear brand Luluna shares how a stressful job and complete hair loss led her to start sewing - and then start her own fashion brand.

Lucy is the Founder, Designer and Creator of Luluna - an ethical brand for fun, quirky clothing.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Lucy started sewing as a hobby when she was a full-time nurse
  • How her hobby turned into a business
  • How Lucy discovered (and is still discovering) what her niche is
  • The challenges of sourcing sustainably and ethically and but why Lucy still does
  • How Lucy developed the fit and sizing of her genderless designs so they fit a range of body types, shapes, and sizes
  • What Lucy outsources versus what she does herself in her spare-bedroom studio
  • What it’s like when your hobby becomes your job

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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10 May 2022Crafting A New Industry Future Through Artisan Fashion with Nazia Siddiqui of Transcend00:54:22

In episode 42, Nazia Siddiqui of Transcend shares her vision for a new normal for the fashion industry focused on ethical, sustainable, and artisan crafted clothes that puts the people at every level of the production chain at the forefront.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How growing up in India influenced how Nazia sees fashion
  • The regional differences between fashion industry skill-sets and textile arts
  • The importance of long-term thinking
  • How Nazia met the factories and artisans who make Transcend’s clothing
  • How factories responded to Nazia’s request for pre-sale only orders
  • The values that Transcend is built on and how that affects how Nazia runs her business
  • How Nazia decides what things to do herself and what to hire help for in her business
  • What Nazia did differently when launching her second collection and how that affected sales
  • How Nazia sets sustainability goals for Transcend - and what she’s focusing on for 2022

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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24 May 2022Designing for Function and Form with Olivia Mason of Olly Designs00:52:09

In episode 43, Olivia Mason of Olly Designs talks about how her background as a ballerina and her love of fashion combine to create functional yet beautiful fashion that does it all.

Olivia has a degree in Ballet, Minor in business, and an associates degree in Fashion design. All of these things have led her to create her line Olly, which caters to women on the go who love fashion and feminine details.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How being a dancer influences how Olivia views fashion
  • The gap in the market that Olivia saw in her search for fashion that does it all
  • Why designing for movement is a key to good fit
  • How Olivia overcame the “Why should I be the one to start a fashion brand - what do I have to bring to the world?” doubt
  • Why feedback is so important when designing clothes (or starting a business)
  • How Olivia balances her brand and a full-time job in costume design
  • The difference between designing costumes versus designing ready to wear

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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01 Jun 2022After 5 Years In Business, Here’s What I’ve Learned About Working In Fashion00:08:44

In this special solo episode, I (Alison Hoenes) share five things I've learned about running a fashion business on the 5th anniversary of Alison Hoenes Design.

I’m celebrating AHD's 5th birthday the whole month of June with some exciting updates, new products, and more to help you get your designs to production with confidence and grow a fashion business that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values! Sign up for my newsletter to join the party, get first dibs on new resources, and receive exclusive 5th birthday discounts.

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

07 Jun 2022Connecting Women To The Tailor-Made Wardrobe of Their Dreams with Nathalie of Dressarte Paris01:02:11

In episode 45, Nathalie, the founder of Dressarte Paris, shares how a busy lifestyle and an appreciation for custom-made clothes sparked the idea for a virtual atelier built on modern technology that connects clients all over the world with quality materials and bespoke designs.

Having worked as an international corporate auditor for a French company and lived across 5 different countries, Nathalie created Dressarte Paris, the first sustainable virtual atelier after realizing there might be other women out there like her, who had no time to visit a tailor but who wanted clothes customized and cut to their body measurements. 

On a day-to-day basis, she and her team make shopping more personal, sustainable, and fun. In contrast to mass-market retailers, they pay attention to every clients’ needs and help them to create their perfect wardrobe. 

Dressarte is a sustainable online couture service that helps clients create their dream clothes (physical and digital) in the comfort of their home by enabling 3D, AR and virtual measurements taking. Dressarte was featured by Forbes, FashionUnited and named top 10 startups disrupting the fashion industry.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Nathalie’s personal experience that sparked the idea for Dressarte
  • What the customer experience is like getting a custom garment made with Dressarte
  • Why technology makes the Dressarte experience more connected and personal
  • How Dressarte uses 3D and AR technology in their business
  • How Dressarte is able to scale the traditional tailor-made process
  • The extra value Dressarte offers to their clients with their service
  • How Nathalie sources high-end materials at one-off quantities
  • Why Dressarte localizes production as much as possible
  • The challenges of producing made-to-measure
  • What happened when Dressarte dipped their toe into the NFT market with an AR wedding gown collection

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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21 Jun 2022Designing with Compassion and Empathy with Sharae Averhart of MoraRae01:11:25

In episode 46, Sharae Averhart, the designer and business owner behind the plus-size petite fashion brand MoraRae, shares the role fashion has played in her life and career and how through all her experience, she has learned to approach fashion design with compassion, empathy, and problem solving.

Hi! I'm Sharae, the owner and designer behind the petite plus size, sustainable womenswear line, MoraRae. I am a designer of all trades & have been designing and sewing from the moment I first jammed up my mother’s sewing machine at 8 years old. 

Since then, my innate creativity has propelled me to always keep moving forward and to design the life I love. Life has been heavy and dark days have dawned but I choose to focus on the light in the world and that was & is, my sister, Shamora. 

The culmination of all my experiences, education and passions have come together here as MoraRae. I am honored to be able to use my gifts to give something meaningful to the world while also putting the planet and her people first.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why understanding construction and patternmaking has made Sharae a better designer
  • The biggest thing Sharae learned from her fashion jobs that has helped her in starting her own brand
  • Why Sharae fell in love with fashion design
  • The business model that MoraRae operates on that aims to reduce waste
  • Why Sharae decided to focus on clothing for plus size petite women
  • What Sharae does before she designs and makes anything
  • How Sharae approaches design with compassion and empathy - and how that affects her business
  • How Sharae learned to ask and accept feedback on her designs and work without taking it personally
  • The role fashion has played in Sharae’s journey of self-love
  • The story behind the name MoraRae and what it means to Sharae

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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05 Jul 2022Elevating Casual Classics with Morgan Shapero of Shapero00:58:20

In episode 47, Morgan Shapero shares how after over 20 years working as a designer in NYC, she relaunched her own brand Shapero in 2021 - and how that experience provides both freedom to design and do business her own way as well as new skills that help her in her day job.

Morgan Shapero is an industry veteran, working as a fashion designer for over 16 years in New York. Born and raised in Vancouver, Canada, Morgan learned to sew at a young age from her late grandmother.

Upon graduating high school, she enrolled in a local fashion college, then transitioned to the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City.  While earning her BS at FIT, Morgan won several industry awards including Women’s Wear designer of the future from FGI (Fashion Group International), presented to her by Michael Kors.

Morgan has worked for labels such as Jones New York, Rocawear and Calvin Klein.

Before her career began in NYC, she launched her namesake line of cut and sew tops, sold in several Vancouver boutiques. After 22 years, Morgan has reignited that passion for sewing and creating with her own hands, re-launching SHAPERO in 2021. 

This new line is all about functional, feminine, comfortable pieces for all aspects of life. Morgan has also included childrenswear as part of her brand, using leftover scraps to create mini versions of her visions.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Morgan chose outerwear as her specialty
  • The way Morgan approaches design at her fashion designer day job versus how she approaches design for her own brand Shapero
  • How Shapero designs to make use of waste materials
  • How Morgan captures design ideas and inspiration
  • What Morgan’s design process looks like
  • How Morgan turns sourcing constraints into design features
  • What prompted Morgan to restart Shapero in 2021
  • Why Shapero is mostly one-of-a-kind pieces
  • Why patternmaking is such an important part of the process
  • The things Morgan’s learned from her day job as a designer over the last 20 years that has helped her in running Shapero
  • How running her own brand has changed how Morgan approaches her day job work

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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19 Jul 2022The Power of Getting Dressed with Ashley Alt of Valt01:00:41

In episode 48, Ashley Alt shares her story of how getting dressed helped her feel more like herself after a time of difficult mental health, and how she’s now started a fashion brand, Valt, to help other women do the same and find joy in dressing up.

Ashley is a writer + fashion designer based in Connecticut. Her written work has been featured in Forbes, POPSUGAR, and many more, where she discusses trends in mental health and wellness. She started her clothing line — a vibrant collection of one-piece wonders for the posh socialite — to show women the incredible power that dressing up has on their mindset health. As a mom of two, she knows how essential prioritizing your social life is!

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Ashley discovered the power of getting dressed
  • The meaning fashion has for Ashley
  • How Ashley communicates the deeper meaning of clothing
  • Why Ashley started Valt
  • How to be vulnerable as a brand in order to create community
  • The first steps Ashley took to start her brand
  • How Ashley found her seamstress and technical designer
  • The biggest thing Ashley’s learned from running her brand
  • What Ashley’s most proud of about Valt

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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02 Aug 2022Connecting Culture, Creativity, and Community with Erika Neumayer Ehrat of Rare Dirndl00:56:26

In episode 49, Erika Neumayer Ehrat shares how she’s built a niche business - Rare Dirndl -  creating fashion-forward styles that still honor traditions to help American women celebrate German culture.

"I started Rare Dirndl in 2010 because, as an active member of the German community in Chicago, I was so disappointed to see that Germany's dirndl designs were lightyears ahead of the designs coming out of the US. So, I decided to change that! Today we are a small team of women dedicated to bringing the world high-quality & fashion-forward dirndls, blouses, bloomers, and accessories."

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The market gap Erika noticed in the US Dirndl market
  • How Erika built a business around such a small niche
  • What makes Rare Dirndls so rare
  • How Erika connects with her heritage through clothing
  • Places to wear a dirndl other than Octoberfest
  • How to know it is time to stop making everything yourself in your business
  • How Erika got started working with a factory instead of making everything herself
  • What outsourcing did for Erika’s business and lifestyle
  • The line between wearing cultural dress in your own personal style and cultural appropriation - and how Rare Dirndl respects the cultural intent.
  • How Erika manages the seasonality of cash flow and sales in her business

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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16 Aug 2022Developing Fashion That Fits Your Customer, Lifestyle, and Values with Ellie Wilcox, Xochil Herrera Scheer, Connie Bourgeois, and Alison Hoenes00:59:13

Join me for this special episode 50 as I chat with three of my fellow patternmaker and product developer friends about how you can develop fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values. We share our best industry tips and expert advice on making clothes that really fit - and building best practices for your brand and business whether you are just starting out or are leveling up an established brand.

Ellie Wilcox - Digitech Design

Ellie Wilcox helps fashion entrepreneurs bridge the gap between design and technology by way of 3D prototyping.

Xochil Herrera Scheer - The Chicago Patternmaker

Xochil Herrera Scheer is "The Chicago Pattern Maker"; she provides pattern making and product development design services to businesses throughout the US. Xochil and her team bring strong expertise and genuine care to collaborate with brands, guiding them through the pre-production prototyping process, with the goal of creating beautiful and functional products that are ready to take to market.

Named a "Rising Star" by SPESA in 2021, Xochil has a keen understanding of the production process through her network of factories and suppliers, and by staying closely involved with clients throughout their development. She is very passionate about Made in USA products, ethical sourcing and manufacturing, and is an active member of SEAMS Association, FGI Chicago, and the Apparel Industry Board of Illinois. Xochil enjoys promoting our great industry through learning experiences, collaborative events and professional development. She is also an adjunct faculty teacher in Fashion Studies at Columbia College Chicago.

Connie Bourgeois - Conjetta Designs

Connie Bourgeois is the CEO and Creative Director of Conjetta Designs - a full service fashion design and production company. Connie is highly intuitive and draws inspiration from the world around her. From a young age, she knew she wanted a career in fashion, a dream that became a reality in 2010. Since then, she has tried to get involved in a variety of projects, all of which have somehow become part of her ongoing creative journey.

Connie started Conjetta Designs with her business partner, Dayne Lewis, in 2020. The goal, bringing others fashion design dreams to life, in turn building up St.Louis' fashion industry to what it once was. In 2 short years the team and company has grown immensely. 

Connie is also the Creative Director? and Co-Founder of Gyal Bashy, a Caribbean inspired, sustainably sourced, inclusive brand.

Alison Hoenes - Alison Hoenes Design & How Fitting podcast

Alison Hoenes is a freelance patternmaker who helps women’s slow fashion brands overcome technical unknowns and get designs to production with confidence. She writes a newsletter for fashion entrepreneurs on developing fashion that fits your lifestyle, body, and values, serves as the Regional Director for Fashion Group International of Saint Louis, and is the host of the How Fitting podcast. 

She truly enjoys all the technical details that go into making flat yards of fabric fit a three-dimensional body. Alison has so much fun working with brands to make clothes that fit – developing clothing that makes your customers feel confident and developing confidence in you along the way.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The importance of fit and how to make sure you end up with a well-fitting design
  • The questions Connie, Xochil, Ellie, and I ask designers at the beginning of the development process so we are clear what good fit looks like
  • How to develop good fit from your first collection and beyond
  • Why boundaries and good communication create work-life balance that allows you to focus on the things that you value the most
  • Ways to set expectations at the beginning of a project so that everyone feels heard and respected throughout the whole development process
  • The benefits of finding a patternmaker/development partner who aligns with your brand values
  • How to attract people who share the same values
  • How brand values influence design and development
  • Why knowing your customer is key to a successful product and business
  • Our top tips for brands just starting product development for their design

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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30 Aug 2022Sewing Clothes to Keep Short Women From Being Overlooked with Miranda Sam of Shortlisted00:55:43

In episode 51, Miranda Sam walks us through her decision to discover a new side of fashion by learning industrial sewing before starting her fashion brand made specifically for short women -  Shortlisted. Discover how the experience is changing the way she views fashion! 

"When we talk about body inclusivity these days, we’re most likely talking about normalizing plus size. What tends to be left out in conversation is a need for diversity in height-appropriate clothing, as well as body shapes. Miranda Sam is the founder of Shortlisted, a responsible clothing brand for women measuring 5'4 and under. Her goal is to bring comfortable and elevated looks to short women of all sizes."

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • What Miranda felt was missing from her career in fashion sales and marketing
  • The challenges of being a short woman in the fitting room and in life
  • Why Miranda is starting her brand by taking intensive industrial sewing classes
  • How learning to sew has changed the way Miranda sees fashion
  • How being able to sew has made her a more confident designer and a better communicator
  • The values that guide Shortlisted
  • The difference Miranda wants Shortlisted clothes to make in the lives of the women who wear them
  • How her previous career is helping her in her new entrepreneurial journey of starting a fashion brand
  • Why decision-making is Miranda’s biggest challenge and also the thing she’s most proud of

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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13 Sep 2022Telling an Imaginative Story Through Specialty Childrenswear with Claire Thomas-Morgan of Vivi Design Studio00:49:07

In episode 52, discover how Claire Thomas-Morgan weaves exploration and imagination into her high-end childrenswear line Vivi Design Studio and how her business has grown into its unique identity over the years.

Claire Thomas-Morgan started out in fashion in the early 2000s, earning her BFA in fashion design from Washington University in St. Louis and MFA in fashion merchandising from Academy of Art University in San Francisco. Thomas-Morgan has worked as a women’s wear designer and buyer, visual merchandiser for J.Crew, and currently has her own children’s wear line, Vivi Design Studio. 

Vivi was launched as an homage to Thomas-Morgan’s grandmother, Vivian, who taught her all about living life not only fashionably but fully. Thomas-Morgan aims to elevate children’s wear to a realm of thought-provoking, creatively classic, and everlasting design, while fostering discovery, acceptance, and expression of self. Her goals are to open children’s fashion to a more emotionally connected, intelligent, and artistic environment that allows healthy self exploration and expression.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Claire started a children’s line
  • The skills Claire has used the most from the graphic design and photography major she started and the fashion design and merchandising masters she ended up getting
  • The role of fashion in growing up and self-discovery
  • How Claire weaves imagination and exploration into Vivi Design Studio collections
  • The power of storytelling for Vivi Design Studio
  • Why Claire started offering adult clothing in her children’s line
  • How Claire approaches designing and fitting growing kids
  • What Claire does to prepare for an impactful runway show
  • How Vivi Design Studio settled into its specialty childrenswear niche
  • Why the balance between creativity and commerciality hasn’t really been an issue for Vivi Design Studio

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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27 Sep 2022Making Slow Fashion From Recycled Flowers with Melissa Hargus Pierce of Soul Studio00:56:43

You’ve heard of fashion made with recycled polyester, but have you heard of fashion made with recycled flowers? In episode 53, Melissa Hargus Pierce gives us a glimpse into the creative and scientific natural dyeing process of Soul Studio - the sustainable, slow fashion brand she started with her mom. 

Soul Studio is a Natural Dye House and Slow Fashion Label founded by Melissa Hargus Pierce and her mother Carol Hargus. They are known best for their ethereal and feminine silk fabrics created using plant based dyes and floral waste (Fashion Made from Flowers.) All wearable/functional art pieces are created using sustainable and ethical practices by their small team of women in Austin, TX. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Melissa and her mom began Soul Studio
  • How Melissa advocates for self-expression
  • Why Soul Studio uses only botanical dyes
  • The science and creativity of natural dyeing
  • Where Soul Studio sources their flowers
  • Melissa’s favorite flowers for dyeing
  • How Soul Studio encourages their customers to slow down and appreciate the details
  • The three values that Soul Studio is built on
  • How Soul Studio found and connects with its audience
  • Melissa’s tips for running a business with a family member
  • Why hosting dyeing workshops and classes have been so fun and successful for Soul Studio

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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11 Oct 2022Merging Fashion And Tech To Build A Custom-Made Fashion Marketplace with Dana Todd of Balodana01:01:55

In episode 54, Dana Todd, the founder of custom-made fashion marketplace Balodana, shares how she started the business after a successful career as CMO and tech start-up founder. Dana talks about how tech-based, made-to-measure, on-demand clothing is the bright future of apparel manufacturing and our closets. 

Dana Todd is a 3-time founder, recovering CMO, and digital innovation pioneer with 20+ years making digital experiences for humans, including a patent for SEO technology. In 2019 she launched Balodana, the first multi-brand marketplace that is exclusively women's made-to-measure clothing. Balodana brings the skills of independent tailors and designers worldwide to US consumers who want to nail the art of the first impression. Women feel transformed, confident and beautiful in custom made clothing - it affects them on an emotional level like no other clothing purchase.

Dana became obsessed with custom clothing first as a means of delivering body fit and unique style, and then as a means to reduce wasteful garment production worldwide by scaling on-demand manufacturing. She is committed to accelerating innovation and collaboration in the fashion and garment production industry. She is a frequent speaker at global digital events and on fashion tech panels.

Balodana is the only clothing marketplace that inspires and perfectly fits women who want to master the art of the first impression. They represent designers and tailors worldwide who specialize in women’s made-to-measure clothing. Online shoppers choose from hundreds of custom style patterns, from underwear to evening wear, in all price ranges and categories. In an era in which consumers expect personalized experiences, tailor-made clothing is not only personal but the most sustainable way to buy new garments today.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Dana founded a fashion start-up after a career in marketing and technology
  • What Dana learned from the research she did before starting Balodana
  • How knowing your measurements gives you power over your wardrobe
  • How Balodana merges fashion and technology to create a new business and manufacturing model
  • The common misconceptions about made-to-measure clothing
  • How made-to-measure designers can offer their styles through Balodana’s marketplace
  • The custom-made customer experience of Balodana
  • The projects Balodana is working on to standardize production to allow for custom fit and creativity
  • The fashion tech Dana’s most excited about right now 

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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25 Oct 2022Slowing Down To “Revive All Clothing and Materials” with Laura Fisher of Revivall00:57:00

In episode 55, Laura Fisher of Revivall Clothing encourages us to slow down and get in touch with our values, our clothes, and the land around us. She shares the windy path (including a degree in Animal Science) that led her to start Revivall in 2009 and how she’s built the brand to “revive all clothing and materials”.

From Laura: “I am inspired by the women of the Wild West and the bygone era of durable clothes, warranties, and American manufacturing. I believe we can do fashion better...better for the planet...better for the people making the clothes and better for us. My passion is up-cycling and using dead stock fabrics and materials to reduce our impact on our planet. Everything is made with love and intention in Montana and Oregon.”

“My mission is to create well made, flattering, and wearable styles that will become staples of your wardrobe. These treasures are meant to be part of your story, part of your memories, part of your life. I care about you and am honored to be part of your story. We are a team. We are a community. We are part of a RevivALL and it's truly a blessing that we've found each other.”

“I believe in a higher power and that the Divine works through me. I am part of the creative process, but I don't take credit for anything that is created.”

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Laura found the group of women who are the ideal customers for Revivall
  • How Revivall clothing encourages a slower way of life
  • How Laura has built a business and life that aligns with her personal values
  • Why there’s more to confidence than beauty
  • How strength and femininity can coincide in clothing
  • The challenges and creative serendipity of working with deadstock and reused materials
  • Who is on Laura’s team and how she met her seamstresses
  • Why Laura’s love of sewing held her business back for years
  • What a week in Laura’s life looks like
  • The benefits of letting your creativity lead

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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08 Nov 2022Finding Belonging In A Wool Coat with Anna Dougherty of Anna Gray Collection00:55:45

In episode 56, Anna Dougherty shares her story of belonging as she developed - and recently launched - her NYC-locally made wool outerwear collection - Anna Gray Collection. Hear how her background in outerwear wholesale and the street she grew up on as a child came together in her launch collection.

Anna Dougherty is a New York City based designer who founded Anna Gray Collection, a women's outerwear brand for those looking to add a little merriment, joie de vivre, and color to their lives. Anna Gray Collection pieces are ethically made in NYC. 

Anna had a wide range of experience prior to launching her brand. She majored in fashion design at Meredith College, and worked in the retail and commercial real estate industries before moving to NYC. Once in NYC, she worked for a knitwear and outerwear company learning the ins and outs of the fashion industry. After losing her job due to the Covid-19 lockdowns, Anna decided to take the leap, hire herself, and launch her brand. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Anna decided to start her brand
  • The things Anna learned in her wholesale sales job that are invaluable 
  • Why she chose outerwear as the focus of her brand
  • How Anna sources her materials
  • What her creative process looks like 
  • Why Anna chose to manufacture in NYC
  • How Anna found her factory
  • The benefits of being part of a brand accelerator program
  • How Anna overcame the fear of being vulnerable and putting her designs out there

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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22 Nov 2022Focusing On The Basics, But Adding Flair with Allison Kittle of Betty x Bow00:54:29

In episode 57, the owner of Canadian slow fashion brand Betty x Bow, Allison Kittle, shares how she combines comfort, versatility, and feminine flair to create thoughtful, elevated basics. Her pieces do it all, and so does she - Allison balances a full-time nursing career with operating Betty x Bow. 

“My name is Allison Kittle, I am the owner and operator of Betty x Bow (pronounced Betty and Bow) a slow-fashion womenswear brand based out of Ottawa, Ontario Canada. We create timeless, effortless, classic silhouettes with a feminine flair that help women build a conscious capsule wardrobe. I was born and raised in the west end part of the city of Ottawa and still live in the area today. I have always had a passion for fashion for as long as I can remember. But my career did not start as a fashion entrepreneur but in healthcare, which I continue to work in both industries today. For the past 11 years I have worked as a NICU (neonatal intensive care) nurse. I have always felt fulfilled caring for others but as I got more invested into my nursing career I had this pull to also pursue my creative passion for fashion and chase this dream for myself. As a nurse you have to be thoughtful and purposeful in your actions and these qualities have transferred into my brand. There is intentionality with everything that is Betty x Bow.” 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Allison decided to start a fashion brand after almost a decade of nursing
  • The style and values that focuses the Betty x Bow collection
  • What Allison looks for in the perfect fabric
  • The thoughtful design process Allison uses to create Betty x Bow pieces
  • Some of the function details that add feminine flair to the Betty x Bow collection
  • How Allison got connected to her factory and technical designer
  • Why she chose to produce her garments locally in Canada
  • How Allison got over imposter syndrome when starting a business in an industry she had no formal training in
  • Why there are transferable skills in any industry
  • How Allison balances a full-time nursing job with running Betty x Bow
  • The pressure to always be working as an entrepreneur

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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06 Dec 2022Perfecting The Craft of High-End Tailoring with Keti McKenna of Ketivani01:10:17

In episode 58, master clothing craftsman Keti McKenna tells the story of her fashion career from recently-immigrated geophysicist in NYC in the 1990s, to seamstress, to patternmaker at designer brands, and finally founder of her own high-end suiting brand Ketivani.

Keti's original career was as a geophysicist, but she always had a love of fashion and sewing since she was a little girl growing up in Tbilisi, Georgia. She immigrated to New York City in the early 90's and soon began selling her designs to local boutiques in the Forest Hills neighborhood of the city. At the same time, she completed her Patternmaking degree at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology. She worked as a patternmaker, fit model, designer and technical design manager for a wide range of companies including Federated, Tommy Hilfiger, Anne Klein, Tahari, Adrianna Papell and Joe Fresh. She frequently traveled to overseas factories to train representatives in craftsmanship and garment construction, as well as to troubleshoot production problems. 

She moved to Denver, Colorado with her husband in summer of 2015 for a change of pace and to enjoy what Colorado has to offer. In Denver, she established her own business: Ketivani. She designs and produces upscale clothing for specialty stores and offers classes in sketching, draping and patternmaking at Denver Design Incubator (DDI). 

Keti is considered one of the industry’s unique talents. Not only can she draw beautiful and sophisticated fashion sketches, but she also brings a wealth of technical construction knowledge and industry expertise to transform such illustrations to finished products. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Keti got her first job in the industry in NYC in the early 1990s
  • Why Keti decided to get a patternmaking degree at FIT
  • Why many designer fashion brands thought hand-drafted paper patterns were better quality than digital patterns for many years
  • The importance of a good patternmaker
  • Why designers sometimes have to approve less-than-perfect fit or quality
  • What to look for in a high-quality suit
  • Why Keti intentionally keeps her brand small
  • The challenges of making high-end products as a small brand
  • How Keti got the opportunity to show her work and process as part of an exhibit at the Denver Art Museum and what that did for her business

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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20 Dec 2022Exploring Dreamy Fashion For Everyday Moments with Natalia Pavanelli of Wandwoods01:04:10

In episode 59, Natalia Pavanelli brings us into her poetic exploration of the whimsy of little moments through her romantic, cottagecore brand Wandwoods. Her storytelling, industry experience, and purpose weave a captivating tale in this episode about chasing dreams and the realities of fashion entrepreneurship.

“I am a Brazillian-Canadian fashion designer with a passion for prints, beauty and old-times-everything. As a child I would move around the world with my parents, collecting new stories, cultures and languages from the old world. As an adult, I continued to live abroad, and worked in France, Brazil and finally, moving to Canada at 27. My favourite thing is to express beauty creating shapes and graphics that make you dream of a simpler world, full of magic and poetry. My ultimate life goal is to help people feel like their true-whimsical-self, bringing joy into their lives and creating beauty.”

“After 11 years working in the Fashion Industry, in several fields, I decided to launch my own identity through this brand, creating prairie-like fashion with a pinch of "whimsy". The sustainability factor was crucial for me, as I used to be a terrible fast-fashion shopper. I wanted to contribute to the slow-fashion movement, with my fantasy language. Wandwoods is almost 1 year old and heading into its 3rd collection drop.”

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • What the cottagecore aesthetic and mindset is
  • How Natalia creates a compelling story through her brand and collection
  • How Natalia found her community
  • Why launching her own brand was so much more vulnerable than designing collections for her industry job
  • The mistakes Natalia thought her 12 years of industry experience would help her avoid, but didn’t
  • When to stay grounded and when to be open-minded with what you want
  • What parts of Wandwoods Natalia does herself versus hires contractors, consultants, and experts to do

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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03 Jan 2023Making Launching A Sustainable Fashion Brand Easier with Shannon Lohr of Factory4500:57:40

In episode 60, sustainable fashion business school founder & CEO Shannon Lohr shares insights, practical tips, and marketing and mindset wisdom for starting a sustainable fashion brand based on her years of experience coaching successful fashion entrepreneurs through her Factory45 program.

As the Founder & CEO of Factory45, Shannon Lohr works with idea-stage entrepreneurs to launch fashion brands that are sustainably and ethically made. 

Shannon got her start in 2010 when she co-founded {r}evolution apparel, a sustainable clothing company for female travelers and minimalists that was featured in The New York Times, Forbes.com and Yahoo! News. 

Through her online business school, Factory45, Shannon has worked with over 500 entrepreneurs in the sustainable fashion space, many of whom have gone on to launch some of the most transparent supply chains in the fashion industry. 

Shannon has worked as a consultant for crowdfunding projects that have surpassed their goal amounts by as much as 300%, and has worked closely with startup apparel companies from all over the world to create ethically-made products with a focus on environmentally-friendly materials. 

Shannon is a strong advocate for increasing supply chain transparency through sourcing, localization and storytelling. She’s been named a thought leader for the future of fashion and was nominated as a "Woman of Note" by the Wall Street Journal.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Shannon started Factory45 after seeing first hand the challenges of starting her own brand
  • What things new fashion entrepreneurs worry about that actually aren’t that important - and what to focus on instead
  • How to launch a minimum viable product to test your concept without sacrificing building a long-term business foundation
  • How to communicate your brand’s sustainability efforts in a way that won’t come across as greenwashing
  • How to work through the vulnerability of putting your designs out into the world
  • How to set your brand’s goals and values
  • The value of knowing your brand’s “why”
  • The two things in Shannon’s experience that distinguish successful fashion brands from the unsuccessful ones
  • How long it takes to launch a fashion brand
  • How Factory45 supports your sustainable fashion brand launch and beyond

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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17 Jan 2023Achieving Big Dreams with Danny Burke and Brandon Winslow of MADE FOR ALL00:59:54

In episode 61, longtime friends and Co-Founders Danny Burke and Brandon Winslow talk about how they dream big and work to achieve it. They share the story of their 7-years-in-the-making luxury streetwear brand MADE FOR ALL, the wins and challenges of running a brand, and what they’ve learned about entrepreneurship and each other along the way. 

MADE FOR ALL Co-Founder and Head of Strategy Danny Burke is a proud, disabled United States Army veteran and gay, black professional with a passion for building meaningful, disruptive businesses. Danny holds a MBA in Organizational Behavior and Marketing Management from Claremont Graduate University and a BA in Organizational Behavior Studies from Pitzer College. Danny serves as Board Chair for the globally reaching gaming media non-profit Qweerty Gamers, which advocates for underrepresented communities in game development and game media. Danny Burke has been recognized by the California House of Representatives for his community organizing and the California State Assembly for his mental health advocacy. He also has a proud track record of advocacy work in support of local HIV-service organizations and queer resource centers. 

Before co-founding MADE FOR ALL, Head of Operations Brandon Winslow built a successful career spanning the sports, entertainment, and real estate industries. As a visionary impresario of lifestyle and culture, Brandon is the founder of The Redline Group, a lifestyle agency that maximizes relationships, visibility, reachability, and manageability of luxury real estate brokerage and investments as a licensed agent with the agency. Brandon previously served as Director of Brand Management and Business Development at Roc Nation, the full-service entertainment company, providing inclusive artist and athlete management, label, publishing, touring, film and tv, and new ventures owned by Jay-Z.

MADE FOR ALL is a luxury streetwear brand designed and manufactured in the heart of the Los Angeles Fashion District. Founded in 2015 by Brandon Winslow and Danny Burke, MADE FOR ALL was born out of a shared love of minimalist style, luxury design and quality craftsmanship. More than just a brand, MADE FOR ALL is a ‘members only’ club for hardworking, dedicated dreamers committed to achieving their goals.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Danny and Bradon decided to start a luxury streetwear brand
  • Why it took 7 years to finally launch the brand
  • How Danny and Brandon divide responsibilities and support each other as co-founders
  • Tips for talking about technical information with creative-minded people
  • The lessons they learned launching and marketing their first collection
  • What the name MADE FOR ALL means
  • Why Danny and Brandon think of their brand as a club and call their customers “members”
  • How Danny and Brandon stay motivated to achieve their goals
  • The surprising part of entrepreneurship that Danny and Brandon didn’t expect
  • Why negotiation is a necessary skill for entrepreneurs
  • How Danny and Brandon communicate new designs to their seamstress and factory

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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31 Jan 2023Growing Sustainably From Designer to Business Owner with Bianca Bellantoni of BELLANTONI00:54:56

In episode 62, hear how Bianca Bellantoni has built her sustainable fashion brand, Bellantoni, to be kind to animals and the planet  - and how she’s grown as a designer and business owner in the process.

Bianca Bellantoni is a Canadian designer and the founder behind the sustainable and cruelty-free clothing brand, BELLANTONI, which she started in 2017. She has her Bachelors of Design from Toronto Metropolitan University and completed her studies with a focus on zero waste sustainable fashion. Her passion to become a sustainable fashion advocate started in 2012 when she learnt about the devastating effects the fashion industry as a whole was having on the environment, on animals and on the people who work within the supply chains. She knew she had to be part of the change, which led her to start her own sustainable fashion brand from the ground up. Since starting her brand, she has been a top 10 semi-finalist for the Canadian Sustainable Fashion Awards 2018, has spoken to students at universities and has been featured in OMNI News, Alternatives Journal, CBC and the Georgia Straight. 

The mission behind BELLANTONI is to help people dress well while being kind to animals, people and the planet, and they do so by using certified sustainable and recycled textiles, manufacturing locally in Vancouver and planting one tree with TreeEra for every clothing piece sold. Each piece is thoughtfully designed to easily transition into anyone’s wardrobe and often has an element of modularity to it, which gives their customers multiple ways to wear their pieces. 

BELLANTONI also takes responsibility for their textile waste through their Re•Nu Project, a zero waste initiative that aims to (Re)define the new (Nu) by giving new life to textile waste. They use leftover deadstock and scraps from their own production and from the fashion industry to create zero waste products such as their scrunchies, masks, Re•Nu Gift Wrap, and more. They also recycle all of their small fabric scraps with the local textile recycling company, Fabcycle.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The things about the fashion industry that almost made Bianca stop studying fashion design
  • How Bianca got involved in the sustainable fashion community
  • What Bianca learned about fashion entrepreneurship from her job at a vegan outerwear startup
  • How Bellantoni incorporates its values of being kind to animals and the planet
  • The limitations and creative opportunities as a sustainable brand
  • How Bianca organizes her business and timeline for both wholesale and retail orders
  • What a day in the life for Bianca looks like
  • How to be creative while designing more commercial, basic products

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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14 Feb 2023Being Called To Create “Decidedly Elegant” Workwear For Petite Women with Tigist Ketema of Tigist Petites00:59:19

In episode 63, Tigist Ketema recalls the demoralizing fitting room experiences trying to find workwear that fit her curvy, petite frame and shares how she felt called to solve that for herself and other women by creating something that didn’t exist before: a luxury workwear brand designed and made just for petite women. 

Tigist Ketema is the founder and designer behind Tigist Petites, the luxurious new designer ready-to-wear label for women under 5' 4". The eponymous brand is a true labor of love for its founder, Tigist Ketema, who has long struggled to dress her own 5' 1" hourglass figure. "I was continually frustrated by the lack of well-made, well-tailored silhouettes available in my size, particularly when it came to shopping for workwear. Every woman wants and deserves to feel strong, feminine and sophisticated in her own skin," says Ketema, "I'm committed to being the brand that provides petite women that outlet of expression." Tigist spent more than two years perfecting her first three dress styles (MSRP: $835 to $855) for Tigist Petites, each of which is available in three colorways; black, navy, and grey pinstripe. All designs by Tigist Petites are manufactured in New York and are available for purchase at TigistPetites.com.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The challenges of finding workwear as a petite, curvy women
  • How fruitless shopping trips really affects your mindset 
  • Why Tigist felt a calling to start a petite brand
  • How Tigist balances trusting her gut with trusting industry experts
  • Why Tigist started over on sampling after seeing the final sales samples
  • Tips for being your own fit model
  • Why Tigist decided to produce her line in NY
  • How sometimes done is better than perfect

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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28 Feb 2023Worthiness, Inclusivity, and Sustainable Fashion with Amanda Toy of Nicole & Rose00:56:43

In episode 64, Amanda shares how she started a sustainable fashion brand, Nicole & Rose, with the goal of making all women feel worthy, powerful, and included. From starting with just a dream of working in fashion to now running her own brand, Amanda’s journey is relatable and affirming.

Amanda has loved fashion for as long as she can remember and has always dreamed of starting her own clothing brand. For so long this dream felt like it could not be a reality, and so she followed a more traditional career path… but in the back of her mind (and heart)she was always hoping this dream may someday, somehow come true.

In the meantime Amanda picked up other hobbies, sewing being one of them! At first the idea of sewing her own clothes felt intimidating, but she bought a sewing machine, watched a ton of YouTube videos and realized right away it was something she really enjoyed!

Sewing gave Amanda a greater appreciation for clothes and really opened her eyes to how much time and effort can go into making clothing. It made her start to really question the fast fashion industry and how clothing was being made at such a quick (and cheap) rate. Amanda dug deeper and discovered more and more about the harmful effects fast fashion has on humans, animals and the environment. 

As she continued to learn more about sustainability, Amanda discovered some really amazing slow fashion brands. She loved their approach to creating ethical, sustainable and timeless clothing that is made to last; the opposite of fast fashion. Amanda started to realize her childhood dream of creating a clothing brand might align with her values by starting a slow fashion brand - and so she took the leap! 

With Nicole & Rose Amanda not only wanted to create a brand that values sustainability and ethical practices, but also makes others feel worthy, deserving and enough exactly as they are.

Nicole & Rose is a size inclusive slow fashion brand focused on empowering women to be their most authentic, beautiful and worthy selves. They aim to create timeless & effortless clothing that you will not only feel amazing in but also feel amazing about as it’s made with other humans, animals and the environment in mind.

Nicole & Rose collections are made up of versatile pieces that can be effortlessly worn together as a set or easily paired with items from your own wardrobe. Each piece has been thoughtfully created with comfort, ease and versatility in mind and the timeless design allows for them to be worn for many years to come. Each piece is ethically made in Calgary, Canada in small batches.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • What sparked her love of fashion from a young age
  • The journey that led Amanda to start a fashion brand
  • Why Amanda was intimidated to learn to sew 
  • How Amanda’s perspective on fashion changed once she did learn to sew
  • The steps Amanda took to start her brand even before she felt like she was ready
  • Amanda’s journey with self-worth and how that shaped the mission of Nicole & Rose
  • Why launching a brand with inclusive sizing is more attainable than you might think
  • The power of good fit
  • How Amanda found the perfect factory for her brand (on the first try!)

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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14 Mar 2023The Impact Of An African-Inspired Brand with Kahindo Mateene of Kahindo00:55:56

In episode 65, Kahindo Mateene shares the inspiration, ethics, and inside entrepreneurial journey of her namesake label Kahindo. With a focus on African textiles, her business is built to empower the women who wear her clothes and the women who make them. 

KAHINDO is a New York based ethical fashion brand that is inspired by our founder’s Congolese heritage and African upbringing and ethically Made in Africa using fair trade practices. KAHINDO is a celebration of the legacy and natural beauty of Africa. Our one-of-a-kind prints and dynamic color palettes are an ode to the continent’s rich culture and heritage and offer a fresh reinterpretation of traditional African fashion. Each piece is a wearable luxury that allows today’s adventurous woman to express her individuality in her own unique style.

At KAHINDO we believe that making conscious, responsible decisions today will create a better future for everyone. In fashion, sustainability is about much more than fabrics and material sourcing—it also extends to the people who create products and the fairness of the practices that surround their work. As part of our commitment to ethics and sustainability, we exclusively use ethically sourced materials and are devoted to fair-trade production practices. In addition, we are actively working to meet the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals, which include gender equality, climate action, access to quality education, and elimination of poverty.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Kahindo went back to fashion school and started a brand
  • How Kahindo brings inspiration from African fashion into her collections
  • The importance of print and color in Kahindo’s design process
  • Kahindo’s tips for trying out more print and color in your wardrobe if you’re not usually a print person
  • How Kahindo got her line into Rent The Runway and Nully and why they passed on the first collection she showed them
  • Why Kahindo moved all her production to her hometown in the DR of Congo and Kenya 
  • How even small brands can have a big impact
  • How Kahindo turned a defeating elimination from Project Runway into motivation to get her brand to where it is today
  • The effect having another full-time job versus being full-time with her brand has had on her business

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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28 Mar 2023The Raw Truth Behind Fuller-Busted Sports Bras with Lizzie Gordon of B.X.M.00:59:54

In episode 66, hear how Lizzie Gordon started a fashion brand making sports bras for bigger boobs after years of thinking “some bigger brand will be the one to make this”. Personally understanding the challenges women face trying to find sports bras in larger cup sizes, Lizzie set out to solve those challenges and she shares what she’s learned about being a business owner in the fashion industry in this episode.

Lizzie  started working on B.X.M in 2020, with absolutely zero experience in both running a business and fashion/manufacturing. Meaning she had a  steep learning curve/crash course in how to build a sustainable fuller bust sportswear brand. 

She is originally from Scotland, just outside Glasgow, and moved down to London in 2013 to start an internship at a small design agency. Lizzie now lives in South East London with her partner and their dog Murdo.

Life outside of B.X.M is relatively quiet, Lizzie  sings in a choir every week and they do some performances every few months. Apart from that, she dabbles in a bit of weightlifting in the gym and has recently got into cold water swimming in the local lake. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The assumption that stopped Lizzie from starting her brand sooner
  • The research Lizzie did to test her concept and find innovative solutions
  • The must-have features Lizzie designed B.X.M. bras to include
  • The biggest business lessons Lizzie has learned since starting her brand
  • The four values that B.X.M. is built on
  • Ways B.X.M. is sustainable and ethical - and areas Lizzie is looking to improve sustainability efforts
  • Why Lizzie has no plans to expand beyond a larger cup size focus
  • How Lizzie dealt with imposter syndrome when starting a business with zero experience
  • What Lizzie did to get B.X.M. bras featured in multiple publications

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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11 Apr 2023Experiencing Fashion As Art And Creativity with Emma Rubinson01:01:24

In episode 67, Emma Rubinson takes us behind the scenes of her namesake label and shares how she designs artful fashion and experiences that encourage people to be their most authentic selves. Hear her creative perspective on design and what it took to produce her recent NYFW collection.

Hailing from the planet Neptune, Emma Rubinson is a rare species of light that only travels in prime numbers. She is fascinated by the human consciousness, and the connections we form with one another. 

Emma’s work explores the human experience. Inspired by dreams, alternate realities, and psychological phenomena, she aims to empower people to embrace and express the true colors of their inner souls. She is constantly inspired by interactions with deep thinkers and big dreamers. 

Growing up near NYC, Emma thrives in a fast-paced environment full of diverse perspectives. Simultaneously, Emma’s heart lives deep in the mountains with an appreciation for solitude and disconnection from the world. Contrast plays a major part in Emma’s work as she explores dichotomies in the universe and in her own life, and pushes the boundaries of comfort seeking growth. 

Beyond fashion, Emma is a performer. Dancing and singing from a young age, she brings her collections and her audience to the stage by carefully designing the environment in which the work is experienced. Each show invites you into an alternate reality, challenging your perception of the world and inviting you to shamelessly wear your subconscious for the world to see.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • How Emma got into fashion
  • Why color is a big part of her life and work
  • How to develop a personal design style
  • Emam’s process for concepting and creating a collection
  • How Emma aims to create an experience beyond just the clothing with her work
  • How Emma got the opportunity to show her collection during NYFW
  • What contributed to Emma’s massive social media growth
  • Why Emma shares tips and resources for other designers on social media
  • Why Emma does not want her own brand to be her full-time job

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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25 Apr 2023Sustainable Underwear To Wear Slow, Compost Fast with Stacy Grace of KENT00:52:34

In episode 68, Stacy Grace shares how being frustrated with the overabundance of synthetic underwear options available, she set out with her husband and co-founder Jeff to create Kent - a fully compostable, natural underwear brand. Three years after launch, Kent offers underwear and basics for women and men that are soft and breathable and you get to “plant your pants” when you are done with them.

Stacy Grace is the founder of KENT, the compostable underwear brand that’s on a mission to help save the planet, one super natural basic at a time. A Canadian living in LA, Stacy started her career in sustainable business consulting across apparel, consumer goods and entertainment in North America, UK and Europe and started KENT after being frustrated with her underwear drawer filled with scratchy, unbreathable and uncomfortable synthetics.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • The reason why Stacy wanted to start a sustainable underwear brand
  • Why small and mid-sized brands are the ones driving change towards a more sustainable future
  • What Stacy spent a couple years researching before launching Kent
  • The benefits of natural fibers for underwear
  • How Kent underwear can be home composted at end of life
  • The fun story behind the brand name Kent
  • The biggest lesson Stacy has learned in the three years of running Kent
  • Why Stacy wanted to have control over her supply chain and materials

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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09 May 2023When Fitting Your Lifestyle And Values Means Closing Your Apparel Brand with Crystal Cave formerly of Poppy Row01:28:48

In episode 69, Crystal Cave gets real and honest about her decision to close Poppy Row - the inclusive and sustainable apparel brand she started in 2018. She shares what changed over the years in the business and in her personal life and why closing the brand is NOT failure, but growth.

Crystal Cave is a celebrity stylist turned style educator and fashion designer. She is the Founder + Creative Director of Poppy Row, a size-inclusive, eco-conscious clothing line. 

Following her employment in branding + marketing, Crystal decided to follow her dream of becoming a celebrity stylist and worked between NY and Los Angeles on the teams behind many major brands including Taylor Swift, Usher, Willem Dafoe, Kate Upton, Mercedes, Billboard Music Awards, among many others. 

After working with women across the globe, she realized there was a need in the marketplace for functional, transitional and stylish staples that were sustainably made, which lead to the creation of Poppy Row, a Los Angeles-based line of size inclusive, modular staples made from eucalyptus, carrying sizes 2-40. 

Crystal’s style advice has been seen by over 1 billion people globally. She’s the recipient of Rent the Runway's Project Entrepreneur Class of 2018 and has been seen in Elle Magazine, Essence Magazine, ABC, NBC, CBS, Bustle, The Boston Globe, Live About, Mind Body Green, Huffington Post, The Curvy Fashionista, and many more. 

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Crystal’s background before starting her apparel brand
  • What Crystal’s vision and goal for Poppy Row was when she first started
  • How Poppy Row and Crystal’s role in it shifted over the five years she ran the brand
  • The things that made Crystal re-evaluate Poppy Row
  • Why Crystal decided to close Poppy Row
  • The response Crystal received when she announced the brand closing
  • The importance of building a lifestyle that supports your personal goals as well as business goals
  • Why it is important to define you own version or success
  • What Crystal plans to do next

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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23 May 2023Scaling a Lifestyle Brand for Millennial Moms with Leah Longueville of Polished Prints00:57:44

In episode 70, hear how Leah Longueville grew the onesie screen printing hobby she started in her spare bedroom when her daughter was a newborn into a thriving lifestyle brand for millennial moms. Over five years later, Polished Prints now sells retail and wholesale plus has its own brick and mortar shop with multiple employees. Leah shares practical tips on how it all happened and how her mindset has shifted over the years in this episode.

Leah Longueville is the Founder + CEO of Polished Prints, a lifestyle brand dedicated to creating products that bring positivity to you, your children and your home. Polished Prints started out as a passion project - a way to bring more inclusive and intentional apparel into the lives of her and her children. With a background in graphic design, Leah would create the artwork and then screen print it by hand onto onesies in her guest bedroom. 

Today, Polished Prints has grown into a globally-recognized lifestyle brand with goods sold in retailers over the world. Our full collection of purposeful, everyday wears includes pullovers, t-shirts, and onesies, all of which are made in a sustainably-driven factory committed to protecting the environment and supporting the well-being of its makers. 

As the CEO, Leah continues to drive the creative vision of the brand and product development, while also working to grow collaborations and partnerships. Prior to Polished Prints she ran a freelance graphic design and marketing agency designed specifically for small, women-owned businesses with a story to share. 

In her free time, you can find Leah spending time with her husband and three children, exploring their new community in the metro-area of St. Louis.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

  • Why Leah started Polished Prints
  • Where Leah sourced blanks for the brand when she first started
  • How not having the pressure to make money allowed Leah to play and experiment with the products and brand of Polished Prints
  • How Polished prints grew from a guest-bedroom hobby to having a warehouse space, full-time employees, and brick and mortar shop.
  • Leah’s tips for making scary decisions that will grow your business 
  • Why it is so important to understand your business’ finances
  • How Leah started manufacturing her own styles for Polished Prints 
  • What Leah did to fund her first big production order
  • How Polished prints grew their wholesale orders from 4-5/yr to 6-7/day
  • The differences between what sells best online versus in store for Polished Prints

People and resources mentioned in this episode:

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