First Ascent Podcast (Jay & Lee)

Get to know a bit about Jay and Lee and how they each found their passion for climbing. Then, listen to them spray about their favorite recent climbs and learn why they believe they are experiencing the golden age of Waterville Valley climbing. 


Climbing in the Waterville Valley area:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/107346408/wm-waterville-valley

Dickey Ledge climbing:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/120605174/high-camp-crags

Yellowjacket climbing:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/108300240/yellowjacket-area

Mount Oceola climbing:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/120605174/high-camp-crags

Russell Crags climbing:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/120706547/russell-crags

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Magnus Mitdbø recently shared a video where he free solo-ed for the first time -  seemingly against his better judgment - with Alex Honnold. Jay and Lee share their thoughts on why the video, and ones like it, set a dangerous precedent when it comes to climbing safety. Plus, listen to these two aging climbers do a shallow dive on how much climbing media has changed since they were coming up in the pre-internet era. 

Youtube: “Magnus Midtbø: Climbing with Alex Honnold **Insane Experience**”

https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=Cyya23MPoAI&feature=emb_title

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

All the best crags have a pecking order, and the social scene can feel pretty intense. In this episode, Jay and Lee debate how to handle it if you feel like you’re being ranked by other climbers out on the crag. 

Then the guys break down what they each think are the most useful ways to learn anchor fundamentals (hint - it’s definitely not from Instagram). 

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Projecting a new route is one of the most enjoyable parts of climbing, but it can also be one of the most difficult. Today, Lee and Jay chat about the most integral things you need to have for a positive and productive projecting experience. 

Plus, in honor of Lee’s upcoming wedding, Lee and Jay each share how they proposed to their favorite climbing partners.

What do you believe are the key elements of projecting? Let us know on Instagram at @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Totem cams, Quads and even (Jay believes) sun shirts - some climbers become so connected to their gear that it seems to become a part of their personality. Today, Jay and Lee discuss the point at which gear preference veers from beneficial to overzealous. Then, the guys explore ways to politely speak about route difficulty in order to make all skill levels of climbers feel included at the crag. 

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

On sights, flash and projects - each style of climbing requires a totally unique mentality. Today, Jay and Lee discuss the important role that mindset plays in all types of climbing experiences. 

How does your view on mindset compare with ours? Let us know on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Today’s episode is all about bolts. Jay and Lee share their thoughts on the ins and outs of each type of bolt, red flags to look for when using bolts out on the crag, and how to choose the right anchor for your particular situation. 

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Each new route is a unique labor of love for its developer; one that takes patience, care and creativity. Today, Lee and Jay share their process for creating new routes, and lay out general things to keep in mind if you plan to develop one yourself. 

Are you interested in learning more about bolting? Check out part one: The Science of Bolting!

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Jay and Lee ask: are the right people making it to the top of the sport? And should we even think about it that way? In a world where social media prowess can heavily influence professional success, some excellent climbers are being left behind. At the same time, some average climbers with savvy social media skills are experiencing financial success beyond their skill level. The guys discuss how this has changed the climbing community as a whole. Plus, should it even matter to everyday climbers?

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Today, Jay and Lee share their thoughts around everyone’s least favorite part of climbing - falling. It's natural to feel a little (or a lot of!) fear around falling, but by knowing how to prepare and process your risk, you can cut a bit of the anxiety and handle it in a graceful way. 

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

This week Jay and Lee are joined by Pat Cooke, an avid ice climber and regular at Russell Crag during the warm months. Pat has led over 1,000 ice climbs in the last 18 years, so he has a thing or two to share about the sport, including his approach to safety and how to sustain long term enjoyment in the sport. 

Plus, hear Pat’s unvarnished opinions about Jay and Lee’s work on the lines at Russell Crag! 

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Lee and Jay discuss link-ups and eliminates as Lee poses the question: When (if ever) are link-ups and eliminates worthy of being considered their own separate routes? 

What do you think? Let us know on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Our Official Science Correspondent Kathrine Hinkle joins us for the first time today for an in-depth chat about the geological history of the rocks we climb. Learn how the rock faces of New Hampshire were formed, and get her expert insight on how climate change is affecting the climbing season. Plus, Katherine also weighs in on the most  controversial First Ascent Pod topic of all - sunshirts. 

Connect with us at @firstascentpod on Instagram. 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Torie and Kayte have taken over the pod! Tune in to hear their thoughts on unsolicited beta, and why an ego check might be necessary regardless of whether you’re on the giving or receiving end of it. You’ll also hear some great stories about pushing past your limits and gym bros. 

Connect with us at @firstascentpod on Instagram. 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

This week Jay poses an interesting question: Does sketchiness have a place in climbing? 

Get an idea of what the guys think ‘sketchiness’ exactly is, hear the sketchiest stories from their early days (and recent days!), and learn why sketchy experiences at the crag can be both very important to growth and still ill advised. 

Connect with us at @firstascentpod on Instagram. 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Last week at the crag, Jay got hit in the head with a rock (he’s ok!), so it’s time for Jay and Lee to review one of the most important topics in climbing: safety. 

Today, they share their thoughts on safety surrounding helmets, knots, harnesses, carabiners and belaying. 

Tune in next week for a deeper talk on safe belaying! 

Connect with us at @firstascentpod on Instagram. 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

This week, the guys pick up their discussion about safety with one of the most important topics of all: belaying.

Tune in to hear their thoughts on the history of belaying, the lost art that it once was, jump and soft catch and reducing impact.

Connect with us at @firstascentpod on Instagram. 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Jay and Lee discuss the unique language of climbing - beta. Hear their thoughts about the lore, the subtlety, the categories, and how it’s utilized to communicate with the rock. 

Connect with us at @firstascentpod on Instagram. 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

By Popular Demand! This week Jay and Lee name what they believe to be the most classic climbs of each rating in New Hampshire - 5.3 - 5.10.

Tune in next week for 5.11-5.14s! 

Tell us your thoughts on classic climbs - did we nail it or not? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram. 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

We are back with Part 2! This week Jay and Lee continue with their list of what they believe to be the most classic climbs of each rating in New Hampshire - 5.11 - 5.14.

Tell us your thoughts on classic climbs - did we nail it or not? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram. 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

The ice climbing season is upon us and Jay and Lee are joined today by an impressive line up of dedicated ice climbers to chat about just that. Tune in to hear a wide ranging conversation on ice climbing with guests Pat Cooke, Luke Hampton, Jon Nicolodi, Zac St. Jules, and Yan Mongrain.

Connect with us at @firstascentpod on Instagram. 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Jay and Lee cover what is possibly the most important piece of gear of all: shoes. Learn about the history of how climbing shoes changed the game, the impotance of shoe sizing, and hear Jay and Lee’s debate on best shoes throughout the years. 

What are your desert island climbing shoes? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

You asked, we answered! This week we’re going through the First Ascent mailbag to answer questions that have come our way. 

Do you have a burning question that you’d like answered on a future episode? DM it to us at @firstascentpod on Instagram! 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Mountain guide and avid ice climber Dave Lottman joins us on the show today for a wide ranging conversation about ice climbing, avalanche preparedness, and what he’s looking forward to this ice climbing season. Plus, we’ll tackle a few listener questions! 

For more about Dave and his class offerings, check out his Instagram, blog, or at www.nemountaineering.com. 

Connect with us at @firstascentpod on Instagram. 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

“There are no such things as bad conditions, just bad attitudes” - Tim Deroehn

Today, Jay and Lee let you in on one of the best kept secrets of climbing - climbing in cold weather. Hear their thoughts on the weather conditions to look for, techniques for keeping warm (hello screaming pukies!), and how to choose the best routes. 

Plus, get the guys unvarnished views on Totem cams, the ‘no anticipation send’, and Cloudwalker. 

Connect with us at @firstascentpod on Instagram. 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Jay and Lee celebrate Festivus in classic Seinfeld fashion by airing their grievances! Tune in to hear Jay and Lee let loose on topics including -  inflated gym bouldering ratings, downgrading routes, carabiners on chalk bags… and water filtration? 

What is your biggest grievance in the climbing world this year? Let us know @firstascentpod on Instagram!

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

This week, Jay’s mom Susan and Lee’s dad Ernie join the pod! Tune in for a wide ranging chat about Jay and Lee’s early climbing days, and the importance of allowing children to do challenging things. Plus, hear some great stories about climbing with the parents. 

What do your parents think of climbing? Do they participate? Let us know @firstascentpod on Instagram!

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Jay is laid up with a back injury from chopping wood, so the guys thought there was no better time to discuss climbing injuries. Today, Jay and Lee chat about their own experiences with injuries and how they’ve navigated the setbacks that come with them. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

How have you bounced back from a climbing injury? Let us know @firstascentpod on Instagram!

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Today, Jay and Lee share their thoughts after watching the first episode of The Climb on HBOMax. Then, they dig into listener questions, including their favorite places to climb and favorite (and least favorite) types of rock. 

Palate Cleansers: 

El Capitan - Fred Padula 1971: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcWg9Y9oLY4

One Summer - Bouldering in the Peak in 1994: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnGf69g6Igc

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

How have you bounced back from a climbing injury? Let us know @firstascentpod on Instagram!

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Today the guys talk through some of the most interesting terms in the climbing dictionary. Where did they originally come from? How have some terms have changed over the years? And what exactly do they mean?. Hear their thoughts on redpoint, gaston, thundercling (or THUMBdercling?), epics, whippers, and more! 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

How have you bounced back from a climbing injury? Let us know @firstascentpod on Instagram!

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Last week Jay and Lee attended the frigid Mt. Washington Valley Ice Fest! Brian O’Leary of Forecast Equipment joins the guys to chat about the event. Learn about Forecast’s cool ice tools and join in on their debate about climbing aids!

Where do you draw the line on what you consider a climbing aid? Let us know @firstascentpod on Instagram!

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Learn more about Forecast Equipment’s ice tools here: https://www.forecastequipment.com/?fbclid=PAAaa6dKGH2ZzFgTM35LW4GP_stYtAS5vAyt7vSpxcJIk12aS0K5b0qPHMEY0

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

First Ascent’s Science Correspondent Katharine Hinkle joins us today to dig into one of the big mysteries of climbing - what causes the distinct smell of a trundled boulder? Plus, learn why dew point is important for climbing conditions, and the science behind the frigid cold snap New Hampshire experienced last week. 

Join in on the conversation @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Jay and Lee tackle a controversial topic - fixed gear! Learn their definition of fixed gear, get an overview of the different kinds of gear that can be fixed, and hear their thoughts on when it is (and isn’t) appropriate. Plus, Jay and Lee share two very different views on what the quintessential climbing experience looks like. 

Did we miss any types of fixed gear? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Jay poses the question: When does a route stop being the purview of the first ascentionist and become the purview of the community? Then the guys answer your latest batch of listener questions. 

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Jay and Lee tackle a topic they claim to know almost nothing about - training. The guys discuss the pros and cons of regimented training, the bits of training they do, and how pairing training with technique can be the golden ticket to unlocking higher grades. 

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today, Jay and Lee answer another batch of questions you’ve submitted. Hear their thoughts on ad campaigns, how to handle unsolicited beta, their skin care routines, and so much more.

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Abby Erler and Kayte Knower join us today to talk about the access efforts that are underway at Merriam Woods (formerly Russell Crag). Learn about the vote that just occurred and where things will go from here. 

Are you passionate about recreation at Merriam Woods? Get involved at 

https://www.merriamwoods.org/

Connect with us at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

In today’s episode, Jay and Lee are joined by legendary New England climbers Ward and Chris Smith! Ward and Chris are responsible for some of the most beloved routes at Rumney and beyond. Tune in to learn how they got their start, what it was like to be a part of Team Tough during the height of development at Rumney, the challenges they’ve experienced in balancing access and overcrowding, and so much more. 

Check out Ward’s guide book to Rumney here: https://www.rockandsnow.com/91279/rumney/

Connect with us at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

This week, Jay and Lee are winging it! Learn all about the Peregrine Falcon closure at Main Cliff in Rumney, and Chris Sharma’s first ascent of the 15 c, Sleeping Lion. Then, the guys answer your latest batch of listener questions. 

Connect with us at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Few people in the world know more about bolting than Dave Quinn of Team Tough. We’re so lucky to have him join us this week to nerd out on all things bolts! Learn about how Dave came to realize that glue-ins were the way to go, his community-focused bolting philosophy, why bolts are such a hot commodity right now, and much more. Plus - stick around until the end to get an exclusive scoop on an incredible new product that will hit Team Tough’s shelves soon! 

Check out Team Tough Bolt Products here: www.team-tough.com 

Do you have a question that you’d like answered on the pod? DM us at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today, Jay and Lee face off in the toughest debate they’ve ever had on the pod: gates in or gates out on a harness. Hear each of their takes, why they are certain that the other is wrong, and learn where many of today’s best climbers land in this contentious debate. 

Plus - drinking unfiltered water, the unexpectedly ephemeral nature of rock and what it means for grades, and the best routes for young kids. 

We have a Patreon! We would be so grateful for your support of First Ascent Podcast. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today, Jay and Lee are joined by a legend of Cannon Cliff - Jon Sykes. A prolific developer with many first ascents under his belt, Jon brings a wealth of wisdom, advice, and wild tales to today’s pod. 

Check out Jon’s excellent climbing guides: 

The Notches: A Rock Climber’s Guide to the Western White Mountains of New Hampshire

https://www.amazon.com/Notches-Climbers-Western-Mountains-Hampshire/dp/069281762X

Secrets of the Notch: A Guide to Rock & Ice Climbing on Cannon Cliff and the Crags of Franconia Notch

https://www.amazon.com/Secrets-Notch-Climbing-Cannon-Franconia/dp/188606413X

We have a Patreon! We would be so grateful for your support of the First Ascent Podcast. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

It’s a full house on the pod this week! Jay and Lee are joined by the members of their development group, Team Scruff. Tune in for a fun chat about development with Greg Pouliot, Sam Johansson, Torie Kidd, Kayte Knower, Mike Gagnon, Jeff Cegan and Mike Zarnowski.

We have a Patreon! We would be so grateful for your support of the First Ascent Podcast. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

By popular demand, Jay and Lee finally share their thoughts on the art of bouldering. Hear why bouldering will make you a better climber, and learn how bouldering has changed over the years. 

You know what you want to do? You want to join our Patreon! Support the First Ascent Podcast for just $5/month and get access to great bonus content like our live talks, route info, and exclusive beta. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

This week, Greg Pouliot joins Jay and Lee on the pod to chat about how his newfound sobriety has positively impacted his climbing experience.

If you are questioning if it’s time to get sober, here are a few resources to help you get started: 

https://www.aa.org/

https://al-anon.org/

https://al-anon.org/newcomers/teen-corner-alateen/

Links: 

https://www.britannica.com/topic/asceticism

You know what you want to do? You want to join our Patreon! Support the First Ascent Podcast for just $5/month and get access to great bonus content like our live talks, route info, and exclusive beta. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Jay and Lee are patching in from Wyoming this week, and they’ve come chock full of topics  to chat about! First, Jay asks if the community would accept retrobolting on a route from a classic era. Then, the guys discuss their ideas for managing crowding at Rumney. 

This week we have a question for you! If you could stack pitches at Rumney to make a fun 5-pitch route, which pitches would you stack? 

Chime in with your answers on our Instagram @firstascentpod. Our favorite answer will get some First Ascent stickers. 

You know what you want to do? You want to join our Patreon! Support the First Ascent Podcast for just $5/month and get access to great bonus content like our live talks, route info, and exclusive beta. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

This week, Jay and Lee discuss headpointing in all of its sketchy and risky glory. Hear Jay and Lee’s best headpointing tales as they talk about their love for the approach. 

Want to see the intense headpointing that inspired this episode? Check out Fall Theory: https://watch.reelrocktour.com/videos/fall-theory

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

You know what you want to do? You want to join our Patreon! Support the First Ascent Podcast for just $5/month and get access to great bonus content like our live talks, route info, and exclusive beta. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Roadtripping is a quintessential experience in the life of a climber. This week, Jay and Lee conclude their trip to Wyoming by reflecting on the many amazing experiences they’ve had roadtripping to climb. Tune in for a chat about dirtbag culture, the role that privilege plays in roadtripping, and the challenge that every long term roadtripper experiences when it comes time to decide between the dirtbag life and the ‘stable’ life. 

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

You know what you want to do? You want to join our Patreon! Support the First Ascent Podcast for just $5/month and get access to great bonus content like our live talks, route info, and exclusive beta. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today, Jay and Lee welcome Jesse Han onto the pod to talk about his fall which was caused by a freak broken bolt at Sundown Ledge over Memorial Day weekend. Jesse shares more about the accident, his injury, and his recovery. 

Plus, hear everyone’s thoughts on how the culture needs to change in order to better educate climbers about the dangers that await them on routes. 

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

You know what you want to do? You want to join our Patreon! Support the First Ascent Podcast for just $5/month and get access to great bonus content like our live talks, route info, and exclusive beta. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

This week Jay and Lee celebrate the 50th episode of First Ascent with a whole episode dedicated to listener questions. Hear the guys debate the ins and outs of route grading, sandbagging, the criteria for being considered a local, and more! 

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

You know what you want to do? You want to join our Patreon! Support the First Ascent Podcast for just $5/month and get access to great bonus content like our live talks, route info, and exclusive beta. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today avid climber Lindsey Mathewson joins Jay and Lee to talk about a wonderful underappreciated crag - and Jay’s home turf - Devil’s Lake in Wisconsin. If you’ve ever thought about making the trip out to this awesome quartzite crag, this episode is for you! Learn about the unique features of the rock, the abundant opportunities for trad climbing, and why Lindsey thinks that Devil’s Lake is one of the best places to learn to climb. 

Learn more about Lindsey’s climbing and art at her Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lindsey.mathewson/

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

You know what you want to do? You want to join our Patreon! Support the First Ascent Podcast for just $5/month and get access to great bonus content like our live talks, route info, and exclusive beta. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today, Jay and Lee tackle one of the sacred cows of the climbing world: the irony inherent in some trad climbing ethics. 

Hear their thoughts about when trad purity can go too far and starts contradicting itself. Then, the guys debate how to approach ethics for both trad and sport climbing areas. 

How do you approach climbing ethics? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

You know what you want to do? You want to join our Patreon! Support the First Ascent Podcast for just $5/month and get access to great bonus content like our live talks, route info, and exclusive beta. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today, Jay and Lee are joined by Val Shao, an absolute crusher at the crag who is also the organizer of the 30th annual International Climber’s Festival in Lander, WY. Learn all about this year’s International Climber’s Festival and what makes Lander an excellent climbing destination. Plus, hear Val’s take on the hot button debates that continue to rage on the podcast. 

Learn more about the International Climber’s Festival here: https://www.climbersfestival.org/

Connect with Val on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/val_shao/?hl=en

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

You know what you want to do? You want to join our Patreon! Support the First Ascent Podcast for just $5/month and get access to great bonus content like our live talks, route info, and exclusive beta. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Is #vanlife everything it’s cracked up to be on social media? Nick Nelson, the owner of Exploration Vans, says yes! Tune in for a chat about van buildout opportunities across a spectrum of price points, reasons why custom vans are a great option for climbers, what to expect when hiring someone to create a custom buildout for you, and more. 

Plus, Nick gives his thoughts on his past profession of guiding and shares why it soured his experience as a climber. 

If you’re interested in a van buildout, hit up Nick at https://explorationvans.co/ or @exploration.vans

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

You know what you want to do? You want to join our Patreon! Support the First Ascent Podcast for just $5/month and get access to great bonus content like our live talks, route info, and exclusive beta. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Scott Stevenson, the man responsible for some of the most beloved routes at Rumney,  joins Jay and Lee on the pod!  Hear about his first ascent of the iconic route Technosurfing, and more incredible tales about developing Rumney in the 80s when it was just a little known crag off the beaten path. 

The conversation doesn’t stop here! If you want to hear more stories from Scott, join our Patreon for the exclusive continued conversation! For just $5/month you’ll get access to great bonus content like this, plus route info, exclusive beta, and a Discord chat. Join us here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today we’re honored to welcome climbing legend Mark Hudon to the pod! You’ll definitely recognize Mark’s name as one of the top climbers of the 70s, both in New Hampshire and in The West, along with his climbing partner Max Jones. Tune in to hear Mark’s fascinating stories, which include how he and Max Jones originally linked up and began climbing together, their exploits throughout the country, and a play by play of their game changing free climb of the Salathe’ Wall in 1977. 

In 2019, Mark’s climbing experienced a Renaissance as he began to climb with Jordan Cannon, who took Mark on a journey back to Yosemite to free climb Freerider forty years later. Their journey was documented in the fantastic film ‘Free as Can Be’. Check it out here:  https://vimeo.com/ondemand/freeascanbe

The conversation doesn’t stop here! If you want to hear more stories from Mark, join our Patreon for the exclusive continued conversation! For just $5/month you’ll get access to great bonus content like this, plus route info, exclusive beta, and a Discord chat. Join us here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Learn more about Mark here: The Hudon Academy - www.Markhudonclimbing.com

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today, Mike Gagnon joins Jay and Lee for some off the cuff chatter about all things climbing. Hear about their latest sends (and whippers), get updated on what’s going on at Miriam Woods, and get the guys’ takes on listener questions. 

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

You know what you want to do? You want to join our Patreon! Support the First Ascent Podcast for just $5/month and get access to great bonus content like our live talks, route info, and exclusive beta. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Eric Zschiesche joins the pod today to share tales and wisdom from five decades of climbing. 

A longtime idol of Jay’s, Eric’s name has been scrawled across climbing history from his feats at Devil’s Lake to Zschiesche’s Corridor in North Carolina and beyond. You might even remember Mark Hudon mentioning Zschieshe’s presence a couple episodes back when he was telling the tale about his free climb of the Salathe’ Wall in 1977! Today, Eric will tell his side of that story. 

Eric shares a deep and refreshing perspective on the ways that the sport has grown up alongside him since he began climbing in the 70s. Plus, he’ll make his compelling case for why he believes that ego needs to be kept in check in order to truly enjoy life as a climber. 

The conversation doesn’t stop here! If you want to hear more stories from Eric, join our Patreon for the exclusive continued conversation! For just $5/month you’ll get access to great bonus content like this, plus route info, exclusive beta, and a Discord chat. Join us here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

In addition to climbing, Eric is a fantastic landscape painter. Check out his painting and climbing here: https://www.instagram.com/ericzschiesche00/?hl=en

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

If you’ve ever wondered what we mean by ‘bonus content’ when we talk about all of the great perks you get inside the First Ascent Patreon, today’s your chance to find out! Last week, Eric Zschiesche joined us on the podcast for a great talk, and we continued on for some insider-only Patreon chat. That conversation is what you’ll hear today! 

Eric goes deeper on his thoughts about the importance of ego and attitude for climbers, weighs in on popular First Ascent topics like retrobolting, safety, and Devil’s Lake, and tells more of his classic climbing tales. 

By joining the First Ascent Patreon for only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content like this from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

In addition to climbing, Eric is a fantastic landscape painter. Check out his painting and climbing here: https://www.instagram.com/ericzschiesche00/?hl=en

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today 5.15 climber and world-renowned first ascentionist Joe Kinder joins Jay and Lee on the pod! Joe has put up routes all over the globe, but his roots lay right here in New Hampshire. Hear the tale of how he broke into the New Hampshire climbing scene as a teenager in the 90s, and how that led him to becoming a part of the next wave of Rumney climbers that pushed the boundaries of what was happening there. 

Joe’s approach to climbing and route development is community oriented and humble, and he’s here to encourage you to try out any climb that calls to you - because it’s just as much for you as it is for everyone else. 

In addition to climbing, Joe has an awesome climbing inspired apparel line:  https://www.lifeofvillains.com/

By joining the First Ascent Patreon for only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content like this from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Jay and Lee tackle your latest crop of listener questions! Tune in for their take on route names, bolting techniques, what makes a ‘boulder problem’, and more. Plus, the guys go deeper on the stewardship they believe is necessary to truly be considered a local, whether that be through man-hours or donations. 

Speaking of stewardship, if you’re local to Central New Hampshire make sure to check out www.centralnhclimbers.org to see how you can support climbing in the region. 

When you remove your harness, do you unbuckle it completely? Give us your opinion on this listener poll on Instagram at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

By joining the First Ascent Patreon for only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content like this from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Jay and Lee explore the rich history of climbers who have come out of New England and gone on to make their mark in the greater climbing world. The guys talk about the great waves of New England climbers; how timing, location and circumstance played into their ability to make waves; and what makes New England climbers uniquely able to push limits in other locations. 

Plus, the guys give their thoughts on the variations and standardizations occurring in elite level training, the absurdity of grading boulder routes the same when they’re so incredibly different, and a whole new splitter crack that just appeared out of nowhere at Royal Arches. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Live from Rumney, it’s The First Ascent Podcast! We got to connect with so many climbers at the awesome AAC Craggin Classic this past weekend. The winds from Hurricane Lee kept the bugs away and made for perfect weather for a weekend of climbing and community. 

We brought our recorder along with us to the crag so that we could bring you a slice of life from the Rumney climbing scene. Tune in and you just might hear yourself or your friends on the pod! 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Jay and Lee revisit the 2002 classic climbing film “Uncommon Ground”. The guys will go through the featured climbs one-by-one, highlighting all the ways that this film absolutely nails the spirit of New England climbing. 

This episode originated from an awesome chat on the First Ascent Patreon Discord! Do you want to be part of conversations like this? Then join us for only $5/month! You’ll get access to the First Ascent Discord, awesome bonus episodes, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Watch Uncommon Ground here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mnpK6LJVKA

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Kayte and Torie are back on the First Ascent mics for their second Wifecast! Today’s episode gets philosophical as Kayte and Torie talk about how climbing is a metaphor for taking risks in life. Plus, hear their takes on being their own climbers while being married to strong climbers, having grace with their bodies and minds during hormonal changes, and banishing the shame out of top roping. 

Enjoy this conversation and remember: Get out there with no expectations and slow down and smell the rock! 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

The Autumnal Climbing Season is upon us! The conditions at the crag keep getting better and better... but that ticking clock in the back of our heads tells us that our time is limited before winter slams the door shut on a lot of opportunities for the season. Jay and Lee reflect on this bittersweet truth and share how their outlooks on it have changed over the years. 

Plus - Jay reaches a new level of enlightenment on Technosurfing and Lee almost causes a search party. 

‘As I Walked Out One Evening’ by W. H. Auden: https://poets.org/poem/i-walked-out-one-evening

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

It’s time for another round of listener questions! Today, Jay and Lee tackle how to achieve the elusive work/life/climbing balance, the Central New Hampshire Climbers Association, chossineering, the new LCO in town and traveling internationally to climb vs staying in the states. 

Plus, hear about Josh Garrison’s solo speed enchainment at Franconia Notch, and the dust up it caused online. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Learn more about the Central New Hampshire Climbers Association here! https://www.centralnhclimbers.org/

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Accomplished mixed climber Zac St. Jules is on the show today to help us get ready for the upcoming winter season! Zac shares more about Forecast Equipment’s awesome tool, The Nor*Easter, and helps us answer listener questions about when to throw in the towel (or not) on a project and what is necessary in order to become a well rounded climber. 

Check out Forecast Equipment here: https://www.forecastequipment.com/

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Josh Garrison joins Jay and Lee on the pod today to talk about his awesome free solo linkup on Cannon Cliff that he completed in less than 3 hours. He’ll walk you step-by-step through the entire experience, and share his thoughts on the less than enjoyable feedback he received when posting about it online. 

Then, Jay and Lee will share their stories of Cold War to celebrate listener Ian Grant’s ascent of the classic climb. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Russ Clune joins Jay and Lee on the pod today to chat about his new book ‘The Lifer: Climbing Adventures in The Gunks and Beyond’. 

Russ is one of the best traveled climbers in the history of our sport. He has climbed and put up routes on every continent other than Antarctica, and he has the stories to prove it. Today he’ll share about his free solo of Supercrack, how he came to travel so extensively for climbing in a time before the internet, his close friendship with Wolfgang Güllich and so much more. 

Order your copy of “The Lifer: Climbing Adventures in The Gunks and Beyond” here: https://www.diangelopublications.com/shop/p/the-lifer

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5-$10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Lee’s in Vegas, baby! So, there’s no better time to talk about how the Las Vegas climbing scene has absolutely exploded in the last decade. Lee shares what he’s been up to, and then the guys list some of their favorite things about the area. 

Plus, they explore how different the western mindset is when it comes to long approaches, and what we lose in New Hampshire when we’re unwilling to make a long approach to a crag. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5-$10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Thanksgiving is upon us, and we have so much to be grateful for in the climbing world. From our partners to our health, our gear, experiences and everything in between, we’re breaking down the things that mean the most to us in this incredible activity that we all share. 

One thing we’re so grateful for is our amazing First Ascent Patreon community! Join us! For only $5-$10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram!

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today we’re joined by Vance White! Vance has put up over a hundred routes in the Lander area, is the author of “Lander Rock: Rock Climbs of Central Wyoming”, and is simply one of the nicest climbers in the land.  

Our chat with Vance today covers bolting philosophy, the importance of generational mentorship, music at the crag, developing routes with an inclusive mindset and more! 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Learn more about the Central New Hampshire Climbers Association here! https://www.centralnhclimbers.org/

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Our good buddy Jeremy Ballou is on the pod today! Jeremy is a long time friend of the pod who has never shied away from correcting us on our many mistakes. He is also the namesake of Jeremy’s Wall in Miriam Woods. 

Jeremy adds his candid hot takes to a new crop of listener questions, airs his grievances with the climbing world, and generally reminds us that we’re full of sh*t. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Ice and mixed climber extraordinaire Pat Cooke is back on the pod to help us usher in a new season of ice climbing! Jay had the pleasure of joining Pat on a mixed climb of Fafnir on Cannon Cliff recently and today they’re here to talk all about the experience. 

The guys talk about how gear can make all the difference in an ice climb, the mantras and mental exercises they use in challenging moments, and the ephemeral nature of making plans for the winter season.

Plus! We finally get an ice climber to share his ice climbing goals! 

For a great intro to ice climbing, check out our first episode with Pat Cooke.  

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

It’s been an amazing year on the podcast! Incredible guests, fascinating conversations and more than a few bloopers have been had. In order to celebrate the end of the year, we’ve compiled a compilation of some of our favorite moments, plus a few of those bloopers. 

We’ll be taking our very first break over the holiday season, but be sure to tune back in in the new year for new episodes. In the meantime, join our Patreon community! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Happy New Year, First Ascent listeners! We’re back from our break and ready for 2024. Today we’re starting the year off with an episode all about New Year’s resolutions. We’re sharing ours, reading submissions from our listeners, and judging each resolution as we go. Plus, we discuss a hot topic: how important is it to be truthful about your climbing experiences? 

Links: 

Cold Fear Podcast. Ep #17 - Social Authenticity 

Race to the Summit on Netflix 

What are your new year’s resolutions? Let us know @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

What are your new year’s resolutions? Let us know @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

High level climber Rollin Grimmett is with us today to talk about his recent send of the 5.14d climb, Life of Villians in Southern Utah. Rollin shares about how he tackled this send, and he walks us through the calculated training regimen he follows as an outdoor climber in order to push his grades. 

Rollin also has a great Instagram at @rrgrimmett, and in today’s episode he weighs in on last episode’s big question: how important is truthfulness in climbing? 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

In today’s episode, Jay and Lee share their picks for the best gear they’ve used in the last year. If you’re looking for (mostly) unbiased recs for new gear, this episode is for you! 

Plus, the guys share their most hated gear, as well. So you know you’re in for a treat. 

Check out the gear recommendations here: 

DMM Belay Master Carabiner: https://dmmwales.com/products/belay-master-2

Rab Capstone Pants: https://rab.equipment/us/capstone-pants

Edelrid Canary Pro Dry Rope: https://edelrid.com/us-en/sport/ropes/canary-pro-dry-8-6mm?variant=557160

Petzl Ange Finesse Quickdraw: https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Carabiners-And-Quickdraws/ANGE-FINESSE

Black Diamond Camalot Z4 Offset: https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/camalot-z4-offset/

Edelrid mega jul belay device https://edelrid.com/us-en/sport/belay-devices/mega-jul

Black diamond crack gloves https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/crack-gloves/

Ocun crack gloves

https://www.ocun.com/product/crack-gloves

Scarpa Meistro 

https://www.backcountry.com/scarpa-maestro-mid-eco-climbing-shoe-mens-scr006k

Kong Panic Draw 

https://epictv.com/kong-panic

Misty Mountain Harnesses -Cadillac (trad/ice)

https://mistymountain.com/products/cadillac-quick-adjust-men-s

Misty Mountain Harnesses -Bolt- Sport)

https://mistymountain.com/products/bolt-harness

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Joe Kinder, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Jay and Lee pen a love letter to the crown jewel of New England sport climbing - Waimea! The flagship crag of Rumney offers a climbing experience like no other, and today the guys break down why it is both so loved and feared. They’ll share stories about their own histories on the crag, and reflect on how they’ve improved as climbers through their experiences on the Waimea routes. Plus, they’ll drop some beta and words of encouragement to get you ready for the next time you approach this fantastic crashing wave of a crag. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

The Mt. Washington Valley Ice Fest was last weekend and it’s one of our favorite events of the year. With a huge turnout and beautiful weather, it was an event that couldn’t be beat. We were on the scene with our mic to capture the spirit of the event. 

Enjoy this slice of life from Ice Fest! You might just hear yourself or your buddy on the pod. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Jay and Lee are here today to answer your latest batch of listener questions! You’ll get their thoughts on a wide range of questions, including the best Rumney sequences, tips for warm fingertips, soul climbing on projects, the role of gym climbing, and even who would be big spoon in an emergency bivvy situation. 

Plus, the ever-smoldering gates in vs. gates out fight continues. 

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

The spring climbing season is just around the corner, and it has us thinking about all of the projects that we’re ready to work on this season. Mike Gagnon is back on the pod today to chat all about it. We’ll each share our approaches to projecting. We’ll tell stories of projects that we sent (and some that we didn’t). We’ll lay out how first ascent projects differ from projects on established routes. And finally, we’ll share the projects that each of us hope to tackle in this upcoming season and beyond. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Welcome to the First Ascent Superlative Awards! 

It’s time for us to pay our yearly homage to the incredible climbing that our great state of New Hampshire has to offer. With the tallest mountains and the best granite, NH is home to the epicenter of New England climbing, and in today’s episode we’ll share our votes for the best of the best in New Hampshire climbing. 

In today’s episode, we’ll share our votes for the following:

Best Boulder Problem 

Best Trad Pitch

Best Multi-Pitch Climb

Best Face Climb

Best Slab

Best Finger Crack 

Best Hand Crack 

Best Off-Width

Best Crack Climb

Be sure to come back next week to hear the 2nd half of our Superlative Awards! 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Welcome back to Part Two of the First Ascent Superlative Awards! 

Be sure to check out Part One if you haven’t yet. 

It’s time for us to pay our yearly homage to the incredible climbing that our great state of New Hampshire has to offer. With the tallest mountains and the best granite, NH is home to the epicenter of New England climbing, and in today’s episode we’ll share our votes for the best of the best in New Hampshire climbing.

In today’s episode, we’ll share our votes for the following:

Best Pump Fest

Best Vision Quest

Best Move

Best Sandbag

Best Discovery

Best Featherbag

Best Runout 

Best Gear Placement

Best Summit 

Best Pitch

Best Cliff

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx

Disclaimer:

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

We are psyched to welcome philosopher, author and avid climber Francis Sanzaro to the pod! His book, The Zen of Climbing, is a must read for any climber seeking to develop a stronger mindset toward climbing. 

We’ll talk about the benefits of releasing attachments and expectations in climbing, the mental state that the most elite climbers inhabit when they send, and even why he hates the term ‘flow’. 

Check out all of Francis’s books here: http://www.fsanzaro.com/about.html

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Nate Liles, the Development Director of the American Safe Climbing Association, is here today for an in depth talk about bolt replacement. The ASCA has been doing incredible work replacing old bolts and hardware on routes throughout the country. Since their inception, the ASCA has supported the replacement of 70,000 bolts!

In this episode, we talk about how the ASCA came to be, the sketchiest bolts Nate has replaced, Nate’s opinions on bolt types and permanent draws, and the best ways to get involved in bolt replacement and stewardship if you’re not personally skilled in the art of replacement. 

To learn more about the ASCA or to make a donation, visit https://safeclimbing.org/

Nate Liles is also a videographer and photographer with his company Orographic Visual. Check out some of his fantastic climbing media on Instagram @orographic_visual 

Would you like to hear a bonus episode with Nate? Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

The guys are getting worked up in today’s episode as they each share their five biggest crag annoyances. Life is all about balance, though! So you’ll also learn about their five favorite things at the crag. 

What is your biggest crag annoyance? Or your favorite thing? Let us know on Instagram at @firstascentpod! 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Jay and Lee can be found at on Instagram at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Last week we opened the floor to our Instagram followers - they hit us with all of the questions, comments, criticisms and praise that they wanted to throw our way. Today we’re digging through the comments and sharing our replies. Hear our thoughts on everything from cracked ribs, to peregrine falcons, to bouldering, to square roots and everything in between. 

Do you have a burning question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx

Would you like hours of bonus content to binge? Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

It’s finally happening! Today’s conversation is all about bouldering. Boulderer extraordinaire Jake Perry is with us to answer all of your bouldering questions. We cover a wide range of bouldering topics, including grades, highballs, skin care, and the most important question: Why? 

Would you like to hear a bonus episode with Nate? Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Tom Bowker is the undeniable godfather of the climbing scene in Waterville Valley. Tom’s prolific number of first ascents over his 40 year climbing career make him one of the most well known names in the region. His first ascents include Peer Pressure, Journey to Lost World, and dozens more. 

Today, Tom shares awesome tales about how his routes came to be, why he still hand drills all of his bolts, why he thinks climbers are the most privileged users of public lands, and which first ascent he is more proud of than all of the others combined. 

Do you want more of this conversation? We continue our chat with Tom over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Few people have done more for the development of climbing bolt technology than Dave Quinn. 

Dave is one of the original developers of Rumney, a core member of Team Tough, and an all around bolting expert. Today’s he’s returning to the podcast to share updates about The Team Tough Crossover Bolt, which just passed U.I.A.A. certification. 

In this episode, Dave walks us through the process of creating a new bolt product; from supply chains to certification requirements, and all the steps he’s had to traverse to bring this revolutionary glue-in bolt to the market. 

Check out the crossover bolt and all of Dave’s products at Team Tough Bolt Products: https://www.team-tough.com/

For more about Dave and his bolting expertise, check out our first episode on the podcast!  

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

North Conway native and long time climber Chris Graham, or ‘Grammy’ as he’s affectionately known, is a familiar face on both sides of the mountains, both as a climber and as a guide. His climbing career goes so far back that he can boast that he climbed at Rumney before there were bolts! 

Today, Chris shares his experiences as a guide, gives his opinion on the longstanding bolt debate between North Conway and Rumney, tells us his philosophy on when to use bolts (and when to not), and shines a light on a bit of the history of the divide between the North Conway and Rumney climbing styles. 

Plus, Grammy answers your listener question! 

Would you like to hear a bonus episode with Nate? Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Nadya Vorotnikova is on the pod today for an awesome talk about loving the process and breaking self limiting beliefs. Nadya grew up in Russia, moved to New Hampshire when she was 10, and now lives in Colorado - and she’s been climbing all along. This journey has exposed her to so many different mental approaches to training and climbing and has made her the absolute crusher that she is. 

Today, Nadya tells us what it was like to grow up a family of dedicated climbers (including her brother Vasya, also a well known climber), how a childhood  in Russia gave her a unique understanding of training, the importance of falling in love with the process instead of the outcome, her recent experience climbing her first 5.14 - Primeval, and how Nadya learned to move past her limiting beliefs to achieve new challenges. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

One of the coolest things about climbing is the rich historical lineage behind each route. From cans on spires, to guide books and magazines, and now Mountain Project, documentation that traces the history of a climb is an inspiring thing that connects us to the past. 

Not every route has a pristine historical record, however. This has caused a rift in the community. A rift that has brought some older climbers to make the claim that there are no first accents left at all - which we think is patently untrue. 

Today, we lay out our defense for why first ascents are still possible, the historical reasons why it’s important to publicly acknowledge your first ascents, the importance of being open to learning about first ascents that were not originally recorded, and how we can work together to deepen the historical record for future climbers. 

Plus, we’ll tell you about our most recent first ascent - Sudden Valley! 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

On May 21st, First Ascent co-host Lee Hansche passed away while setting routes at the climbing gym while he worked. Today, Jay is releasing the final episode that they recorded together, as it reflects what a great man Lee was and what a joy it was to speak with him about climbing. 

If you would like to donate in Lee’s name, please visit https://www.gofundme.com/f/lee-hansche. The proceeds will be split between the Rumney Climbers Association and the Central New Hampshire Climbers Association, two organizations that support climbing areas that Lee loved so much. 

In this episode, originally titled Honnold & Midtbø Revisited + Lies on Action Direct, Jay and Lee share their thoughts on recent controversial happenings in the climbing sphere. They’ll rehash their opinions about Alex Honnold and Magnus Midtbø’s free solo in light of Magnus’s reaction video with his girlfriend. (Check out our first episode on that free solo here) Then, they’ll break down the controversy surrounding Said Belhaj’s claim that he sent Action Directe. And finally, they’ll bring it closer to home with a history of the ladder controversy at Waimea, since it has begun to heat up once again. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

We’re officially entering into a new phase of the First Ascent Podcast, and I could think of no one better to join me than my longtime climbing buddy, James Schroeder. 

With over 27 years of climbing under his belt, James has a lot of insight to offer. So, we’ll tackle some recently submitted listener questions. You’ll hear our thoughts about the responsibilities of a guide, how to successfully progress with trad climbing, the best way to give back to the climbing community, and the ethics of developing routes if you’re a visitor to an area. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Certified Performance Climbing Coach Leif Gasch of Substr8 Climbing is on the show today for a deep dive conversation about the fundamentals of training. 

We’ll talk about how to know when you’re ready for training, the importance of setting a strong foundation for your body, cultivating an open mindset toward climbing, and how to schedule training so that you don’t have to give up days at the crag. 

To learn more about Leif’s personalized training plans, check out https://www.substr8climbing.com/ or visit @substr8_climbing on Instagram. 

References: 

The Rock Climber’s Training Manual by Mike Anderson

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Nate Liles is back on the pod! If you watch climbing media, you’ve most likely seen Nate’s work as a videographer and photographer. Today he’ll take us behind the scenes to give us a glimpse of what it takes to create awesome climbing media. 

We’ll talk about the challenging process of rigging equipment to capture the ascent, the considerations Nate keeps in mind when using drones for footage, the business side of climbing media, and a few tips and tricks he uses to create compelling final products. 

Learn more about Nate’s work at Orographic.Studio or on Instagram @orographic.visual

Check out Nate’s first interview here, where he talks about his work with the American Safe Climbing Association. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Ladd Raine, President of the Rumney Climber’s Association, is on the pod today to talk all about Rumney and the upcoming AAC Craggin’ Classic on Sept 6-8. 

Ladd and I talk about what a local climbing organization (LCO) does, the history of the Rumney Climber’s Association and The Craggin’ Classic, what to expect at The Craggin’ Classic, how to report if a bolt needs to be replaced at Rumney, and all of the ways to get involved in your LCO if you want to help with the stewardship of the crag. 

The AAC Craggin’ Classic is coming to Rumney on Sept 6-8. Learn all about it here.

Get involved or donate to the Rumney Climber’s Association here. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.