Finding Elevation: Conversations Beyond the Mountain (Lisa Thompson)

In this episode of the Finding Elevation podcast, join me and Jacque as we discuss various aspects of mountaineering, including personal journeys, getting started in the sport, exploring lesser-known peaks, affordability, sun protection, the impact of cold therapy on strength training, and the importance of mindset in climbing. We share valuable tips and insights for both beginners and experienced climbers, emphasizing the significance of preparation, practice, and mental resilience in outdoor adventures.

Takeaways

• Everyone's journey in mountaineering is unique.
• Starting with simple hikes can build confidence.
• Joining local mountain clubs can enhance learning.
• Courses and guides provide valuable skills and knowledge.
• Practice skills regularly to ensure readiness.
• Seek affordable local options for climbing trips.
• Sunscreen and lip protection are crucial in high altitudes.
• Cold therapy can hinder muscle growth if not timed correctly.
• Mental preparation is as important as physical training.
• Visualization and positive self-talk can enhance performance.

Engagement Link

Cold therapy research: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9518606/ 

Outer U: https://outeru.com/ – face glove 

Dermatone https://www.dermatone.com/ 

Guide Companies: 

Khangri Experience : https://www.khangriexperience.com/about 

Madison Mountaineering: https://madisonmountaineering.com/ 

Mountain Madness: https://mountainmadness.com/

Climbing the Seven Summits: https://climbingthesevensummits.com/

Summit Climb: https://www.summitclimb.com/ (I did my mountaineering course with Dan Mazur)

Colorado Mountain Club: https://www.cmc.org/

Wasatch Mountain Guides: https://wasatchmountainguides.com/ 

Utah Mountain Adventures: https://www.utahmountainadventures.com/ 

San Juan Colorado Mountain Guides: https://mtnguide.net/ 

Nepal: https://www.thirdrockadventures.com/ (Gadul Tamang was my guide and he was AMAZING)

https://www.himalayanglacier.com/ 

Kilimanjaro: https://eco-africaclimbing.com/ (they have an all women’s climb) 

Avalanche training: 

FREE Avalanche intro course: https://www.kbyg.org/ 

Utah Avalanche Center (Avy education): https://utahavalanchecenter.org/ 

Colorado Avalanche Info Center (avy education): https://avalanche.state.co.us/ 

Facebook hiking/mountaineering groups:

Wasatch Peak Baggers: https://www.facebook.com/groups/639286149434063 

Wasatch Mountain Club: https://www.facebook.com/groups/92268557972 

Utah Women on the Ascent: https://www.facebook.com/groups/2671281463103052 

Utah Backcountry Ski Touring: https://www.facebook.com/groups/999509393504378 

Colorado 14ers: https://www.facebook.com/groups/82338447841

CO 14er Ladies: https://www.facebook.com/groups/618505908320639 

CO 14er Sloth Ladies (slower hikers group): https://www.facebook.com/groups/185321063068648  

PNW Mountaineers: https://www.facebook.com/groups/507746076069464 

Women of Mountaineering: https://www.facebook.com/groups/282106230188273/ 

Jacque’s youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/@highelevationadventure 

Jacque’s insta: https://www.instagram.com/jacque.tietjen/ 

In this episode of Finding Elevation, host Lisa Thompson interviews Tom Cuddy, an exercise physiologist, to discuss exercise physiology and the testing he does to understand an athlete's physiology. He explains the different energy systems in the body and how they produce ATP, the role of muscle fibers in different types of athletes, and the importance of lactate in energy production. Tom also discusses the use of physiological testing to design training programs and optimize performance. In this conversation, Tom Cuddy discusses the importance of understanding training design and tailoring it to individual goals and needs. He emphasizes the significance of knowing the energy systems and fuel sources required for specific activities, such as mountaineering. Tom also highlights the misconception that high-intensity training is necessary for progress and explains the importance of low-intensity training for endurance goals. He delves into the concept of running economy and introduces the idea of vertical running economy, which measures the energy expenditure of running uphill. Tom shares his research findings on the determinants of vertical running economy and the physiological metrics that contribute to efficient uphill running. He also discusses the accessibility of metabolic testing and his efforts to make it more available to athletes.

Takeaways

• There are different energy systems in the body that produce ATP to fuel muscle contraction during exercise.
• Muscle fibers play a role in an athlete's performance, with slow twitch fibers being used during low-intensity activities and fast twitch fibers being used during high-intensity activities.
• Lactate is an important fuel source that can be recycled and used by different muscle fibers.
• Physiological testing, such as VO2 max and lactate threshold testing, can provide valuable information for designing training programs and optimizing performance.
• Training can influence an athlete's physiology and the percentage of different muscle fibers in their body. Understanding the specific goals and needs of an individual is crucial for designing effective training programs.
• Tailoring training to maximize the relevant energy systems and fuel sources is essential for optimal performance.
• Contrary to popular belief, low-intensity training plays a significant role in achieving endurance goals.
• Running economy, including vertical running economy, is an important metric for measuring energy expenditure during uphill running.
• Physiological metrics such as VO2 max, VO2 at lactate threshold, and lactate levels can help predict and improve running economy.
• Efforts are being made to make metabolic testing more accessible to athletes and provide actionable insights for training.

Engagement Link

https://www.calibratedcoaching.com/ 

In this conversation of Finding Elevation, host Lisa Thompson interviews Nick, an exercise physiologist specializing in hypoxic training. They discuss the physiological changes that occur at altitude, the adaptations that can be achieved through hypoxic training, and the importance of pre-acclimatization strategies. Nick emphasizes the role of genetics in altitude tolerance and the need for proper assessment and preparation for climbers. They also explore different hypoxic training methods, common mistakes made during acclimatization, and provide advice for first-time climbers. The conversation concludes with reflections on the future of hypoxic training and personal stories from Nick's experiences in the climbing world.

Takeaways

• Hypoxic training stimulates red blood cell growth and enhances oxygen efficiency.
• Physiological changes at altitude include adaptations in blood saturation and oxygen transport.
• Pre-acclimatization can reduce the risk of altitude sickness for climbers.
• Genetic factors play a significant role in an individual's tolerance to altitude.
• Proper assessment of risk is crucial for climbers preparing for high altitudes.
• Common mistakes include underestimating the challenge of climbing and overexerting during training.
• Eating, drinking, sleeping, and pacing are essential for success at altitude.
• Hypoxic training can be done through prolonged exposure or intermittent exposure methods.
• It's important to match altitude training to the specific goals of the climber.
• The mountains remain a place of mystery and respect, despite advances in technology. 

In this episode of the podcast, mountaineer Lisa Thompson shares tips and insights on climbing Denali (formerly known as Mt. McKinley), the highest peak in North America. Listeners can expect to learn about the history of the mountain, what makes it challenging to climb, best practices for training, fitness and gear preparation, and managing life after returning from a big mountain expedition. 

Key Discussion Points:

• History and meaning behind the name "Denali" (00:00:33)
• Geological features like the steep relief add to the challenge (00:02:02) 
• Typical timing of the climbing season and conditions that impact summit success rates (00:04:15)
• Physical demands like carrying heavy loads on sleds and tips for self-care (00:05:46)
• Required mountaineering skills like crevasse rescue and efficient movement in crampons (00:47:01)
• Mental preparation strategies and training in bad weather (00:44:51) 
• Gear considerations like having a backup plan if heated accessories fail (00:52:17)
• Coming home after weeks in harsh conditions and feeling disconnected (00:57:38)

Community and Engagement Links

https://www.alpineathletics.net/webinar 

Minus 148 Degrees: https://amzn.to/47J1lB9  

Desire and Ice: https://amzn.to/47K3hJC 

The Last of His Kind: https://amzn.to/3Swb6hW 

In the Shadow of Denali: https://amzn.to/3Std1nl 

Rebecca Dent, a dietitian specializing in sports nutrition, shares her journey into working with endurance sports and mountain athletes. She emphasizes the importance of planning and practicing a nutrition strategy for optimal performance. Some common mistakes athletes make include not planning and practicing their nutrition and hydration strategy, forgetting to eat and drink during activity, and starting to eat and drink too late. Dent recommends creating a nutrition strategy per hour of moving time and focusing on carbohydrates as the primary fuel source. She also discusses the importance of recovery nutrition and how to recover from bonking. In this conversation, Rebecca Dent discusses hydration and nutrition strategies for endurance athletes. She emphasizes the importance of staying hydrated during training and provides tips for maintaining optimal hydration levels. Rebecca also addresses the topic of intermittent fasting and explains why it is not recommended for athletes. She highlights the natural increase in fat oxidation that occurs through endurance training and advises against the need for fasting training. Overall, Rebecca provides valuable insights into the role of hydration and nutrition in optimizing performance for endurance athletes.

Takeaways

• Plan and practice a nutrition strategy for optimal performance in endurance sports and mountain activities.
• Common mistakes include not planning and practicing nutrition, forgetting to eat and drink, and starting to eat and drink too late.
• Focus on carbohydrates as the primary fuel source during activity.
• Recovery nutrition is important for replenishing energy and supporting muscle repair.
• If you experience bonking, consume fast-acting carbohydrates and back it up with more substantial food. Staying hydrated during training is crucial for optimal performance and energy levels.
• Carrying a sports drink and regularly sipping on it can help maintain energy levels and offset dehydration.
• Intermittent fasting is not recommended for endurance athletes as it can lead to negative health and performance consequences.
• Endurance training naturally increases fat oxidation rates, eliminating the need for fasting training.
• Focus on fueling your training and giving your body time to adapt and improve.

Engagement Link

https://www.rebeccadent.co.uk

https://www.instagram.com/high_performance_dietitian/

Sweat Test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHZPWGHHh20

Anthony Lorubbio shares his journey from aspiring professional athlete to breathwork coach. He discusses how he got into breathwork and the power it has to change our state of mind and body. He emphasizes the importance of breathing through the nose, breathing slowly, and breathing low into the diaphragm for optimal breath efficiency. Anthony also introduces his high altitude breathwork training program, which helps mountain athletes acclimate and perform better at high altitudes. In this conversation, Anthony Lorubbio discusses the high altitude simulation breathwork training program and its benefits for improving performance at high altitudes. The program focuses on two key areas: training carbon dioxide tolerance and increasing hemoglobin concentration. By manually changing chemoreceptor sensitivity to carbon dioxide, individuals can feel less breathless and breathe more optimally through the nose. Increasing hemoglobin concentration leads to a higher VO2 max and improved oxygen uptake. The five-week training program includes exercises for proper breathing mechanics, high altitude simulation breathwork protocols, and respiratory muscle training. Maintenance recommendations include regular breath assessments and the practice of breathe light exercises.

Takeaways

• Breathing through the nose, breathing slowly, and breathing low into the diaphragm are key for optimal breath efficiency.
• There is a mismatch between our bodies' adaptation to natural environments and the modern world we live in.
• Anthony's high altitude breathwork training program is a pre-acclimatization addition to mountain athletes' training, helping them improve their breath efficiency and respiratory muscle strength.
• Proper breathing mechanics, acclimatization time, and training are all important for mountain athletes to perform better at high altitudes. High altitude simulation breathwork training can improve performance at high altitudes by training carbon dioxide tolerance and increasing hemoglobin concentration.
• Feeling breathless at high altitudes is often due to increased carbon dioxide levels, not lack of oxygen.
• The five-week training program includes exercises for proper breathing mechanics, high altitude simulation breathwork protocols, and respiratory muscle training.
• Maintenance recommendations include regular breath assessments and the practice of breathe light exercises.
• Breathing through the nose, breathing slow, and breathing low are key principles for optimal breathing.

Engagement Link

• The Story of the Human Body by Daniel E. Lieberman
• Oxygen Advantage
• Buckle Up with Simon and Brian: An Ultrarunning Conversation (Ep. #20 with Anthony Lorubbio from Recal)
• Learn How to Train for Altitude with Breathwork
• Instagram: Recal Travel 
• Instagram: Anthony Lorubbio

Dr. Torrie Higgins, a performance coach, shares her journey and expertise in working with high-performing individuals in intense environments. She emphasizes the importance of mindset and how it can be trained and cultivated. Torrie discusses the use of neuroscience in developing coaching programs and tools, and highlights the significance of understanding chronobiology and designing one's day for peak performance. She also emphasizes the need for regular mindset practice and the importance of questioning negative beliefs and challenging the internal voice of anxiety. In this conversation, Dr. Torrie Higgins discusses the importance of managing limiting beliefs and fears in order to build confidence and resilience. She suggests writing down these limiting beliefs and double-clicking on them to gain distance and objectivity. Dr. Higgins also introduces the concept of the flexibility sequence, which involves asking oneself what the situation demands, what tools are needed, and creating a feedback loop to determine if the chosen tools are effective. She emphasizes the need for vulnerability and open communication in high-performance environments. Additionally, Dr. Higgins highlights the significance of managing energy and the three types of energy: physical, cognitive, and emotional. She recommends reframing discomfort cues and optimizing recovery breaks to maximize performance.

Takeaways

• Mindset is a core belief system that shapes how we process the world around us.
• A resilient mindset includes optimism, a challenge orientation, and confidence in coping with stress.
• Understanding chronobiology and designing one's day based on optimal energy levels can enhance productivity and performance.
• Effective recovery breaks should activate the parasympathetic nervous system, drive a physiological shift, and create a cognitive shift.
• Mindset cultivation is an ongoing practice that requires questioning negative beliefs and regularly recalibrating.
• Companies are recognizing the importance of mindset and are creating cultures that allow for autonomy in designing workdays. Write down limiting beliefs and fears to gain distance and objectivity.
• Double-click on limiting beliefs to explore and challenge them.
• Use the flexibility sequence to determine what the situation demands and which tools to deploy.
• Create a feedback loop to assess the effectiveness of chosen tools.
• Practice vulnerability and open communication in high-performance environments.
• Manage physical, cognitive, and emotional energy.
• Reframe discomfort cues to change their meaning.
• Optimize recovery breaks to recharge mentally and physically.

Engagement Link

Ultraspeaking Podcast 

The Edge Sport and Performance Psychology Consulting

The End of Trauma by George Bonanno

In this episode of the Finding Elevation podcast, host Lisa Thompson discusses the impact of mindfulness and mindset on performance for mountain athletes. She shares how practices like meditation, intention-setting, visualization, and breathwork can transform both climbing ability and overall wellbeing.

Key Discussion Points

• The connection between mindset and performance, initially noticed when a seemingly capable climber turned around early on Mt. Rainier due to mental barriers (00:01:00)
• Research showing meditation physically changes the brain to improve focus and decrease reactivity/fear (00:07:00)
• Tips for building a meditation practice, starting with just 5 minutes a day (00:21:41)
• Using mantras and intention-setting to override negative self-talk and reframe challenges (00:29:15)
• Leveraging visualization to pre-experience difficult sections of a climbing route (00:35:59) 
• Not ignoring fear but categorizing it and reframing it before moving forward (00:33:24)

Community and Engagement Links

Studies:

• NIH study
• Purdue study
• Your brain doesn’t know the difference between what you think and experience 

Meditation Apps:

• Calm
• Headspace
• Insight timer

Book:

The Mindful Athlete by George Mumford

In this episode of the Finding Elevation podcast, host Lisa Thompson discusses the difference between resolutions and intentions, emphasizing the importance of identity in achieving lasting change. She shares practical strategies for setting intentions and highlights the significance of showing up consistently to work towards personal goals. The conversation encourages listeners to embrace the process of becoming who they want to be, rather than focusing solely on outcomes.

Takeaways

1. Start with identity: Instead of focusing on what you want to achieve, ask yourself, “Who do I want to become?"Write it down, and let that be your guiding intention. Stick it to your computer monitor, to your treadmill.
2. Create rituals around showing up: Lay out your gear the night before. Schedule your training like an important meeting, put it on your calendar. These small rituals help anchor your intention. I also like linking a new habit with an existing one.
3. Embrace imperfect action: You don’t have to be perfect. Missing one workout doesn’t mean you’ve failed. Remember, the goal isn’t perfection—it’s consistency and it's making consistent improvements over time.
4. Celebrate the process: Reflect on how showing up makes you feel, even if you’re tired or the workout didn’t go as planned. Every step you take reinforces your identity and builds momentum.
5. Revisit your intention regularly: Remind yourself of the future you’re committed to creating. Write it on a sticky note, put it on your mirror, or say it out loud each morning.

Mount Rainier is the highest peak in Washington State and a popular mountain for climbers. The history of Mount Rainier includes eruptions in the late 1800s, and it was the ancestral homeland for several Native American tribes. The first successful summit of Rainier happened in 1870, and the first female ascent was just 20 years later. There are 40 routes on Mount Rainier, with the Disappointment Cleaver and Emmons routes being the most popular. Climbing Rainier requires physical and mental preparation, as well as adherence to Leave No Trace principles.

Takeaways

• Mount Rainier is the highest peak in Washington State and a popular mountain for climbers. 
• The history of Mount Rainier includes eruptions in the late 1800s, and it was the ancestral homeland for several Native American tribes. 
• The first successful summit of Rainier happened in 1870, and the first female ascent was just 20 years later. 
• There are 40 routes on Mount Rainier, with the Disappointment Cleaver and Emmons routes being the most popular. 
• Climbing Rainier requires physical and mental preparation, as well as adherence to Leave No Trace principles.

Engagement Links

Mt. Rainier History

Rainier climbing book

Fay Fuller

Rainier Climbing Ranger Blog 

Weather 

Guide company links
https://www.alpineascents.com

https://www.mountainguides.com

https://mountainmadness.com

https://www.rmiguides.com

LNT principles

In this episode, host Lisa Thompson provides a wealth of tips and advice for preparing to climb Mount Everest. She shares insights on physical training, mental preparation, gear selection, nutrition, teammates, and more based on her own experience climbing the mountain as well as coaching other climbers. 

Key Discussion Points

• Overview of Everest history, including the first confirmed and controversial first summits (00:02:12)
• Primary routes—north/Tibet side vs south/Nepal side - and their pros and cons (00:06:45) 
• Physical training tips: building cardio capacity, mountain-specific strength, and endurance (00:13:31)
• Importance of mental toughness above 23,000 ft (00:20:30)  
• Practical preparation tips: inform loved ones, watch route videos, set nutrition plan, and assemble gear early (00:21:50)
• Strategies during climb - boundaries, positive self-talk, anticipating worries (00:25:38)
• Motivational tools - voice memos from friends, letter to self (00:45:50)

Key Quotes

"I just think that there is so much that you learn when you're on a Himalayan expedition about coping and being away from home and living in an inhospitable environment and, you know, working with an environment and, you know, working with a diverse team of people you may not know." (00:11:35)

"It's up to each of us to be a little more considerate and a little more adaptable and a little more accommodating." (00:36:38) on team dynamics

"I want if I'm coaching you, I want everything that you're carrying to be functional so that it's gonna help you get up and down the mountain and putting on extra fat before you go isn't going to do that." (00:44:38) on gaining weight before the climb

Community and Engagement Links

The Third Pole by Mark Synnott

Lisa's Everest blog

The Altitude Center

In this episode of the Finding Elevation podcast, host Lisa Thompson speaks with Angie Marie about the intersection of adventure and menstrual cycles. They discuss Angie's work to help women better understand and connect with their cycles and bodies in the outdoors. Listeners can expect to learn practical tips for managing periods while backpacking or mountaineering, as well as gain inspiration around how embracing femininity can enrich outdoor experiences.

Guest Bio

Angie Marie is an author, speaker, and "period nerd" focused on helping people live and adventure in better sync with their bodies. She has over a decade of experience in the outdoor industry and is passionate about increasing access to nature for girls and women.

Key Discussion Points

In this episode of Finding Elevation, host Lisa Thompson interviews her friend Dr. Tracee Metcalfe, an expedition doctor, and high altitude mountaineer. They discuss Dr. Metcalfe's journey into mountaineering, common medical issues in the mountains, using medications like Diamox while climbing, and managing altitude sickness. Dr. Metcalfe also shares details on her upcoming project to climb the final 5 of the world's 14 8,000-meter peaks to raise money for Ascend Athletics, an organization that teaches mountaineering skills to women in Pakistan and Afghanistan.

Main Discussion Points:

• How Dr. Metcalfe first got into climbing after moving to Colorado for college despite growing up in southern California
• Treating acute mountain sickness, sunburns, frostbite, blisters and other issues as an expedition doctor on mountains like Denali and Everest
• Using medications like Diamox for better sleep and oxygen saturation at altitude
• Recognizing signs of pulmonary edema and cerebral edema
• Dr. Metcalfe's upcoming climbs of Shishapangma, Lhotse, the Gasherbrums, and Broad Peak to complete all 14 eight-thousanders
• Fundraising through her climbs for Ascend Athletics, an organization that teaches women in Pakistan and Afghanistan leadership and mountaineering skills.

Links:

https://traceelmetcalfe.com/ 

Tracee’s fundraising site to teach Pakistani girls mountain skills: https://www.pledge.to/empowering-girls-to-climb-to-new-heights--

Colorado Mountain Club

Helpful Gear:

AirTrim mask

LeukoTape

Alpine Armor Tape

Hydrocolloidal Patches

Blister Seals

Are you adventurous at heart and ready to take on a big goal but not sure how to prepare, or what to expect when you get there?

Join mountaineer, seven summiter, and founder of Alpine Athletics Lisa Thompson each month as she shares strategies and tips that have worked for her and her clients. 

Each episode contains powerful insight and guidance to help you, the eager mountain athlete build the confidence you need to elevate your life through the outdoors.

Jason Widup, a marketing advisor and mountaineer, shares his journey into mountaineering and the lessons he learned along the way. He initially turned to hiking and mountaineering as a way to cope with stress and anxiety. After a failed attempt at Mount Rainier, he realized the impact of marijuana on his fitness and made the decision to quit. He incorporated meditation, breathing exercises, and reading books on breathing techniques into his daily routine to manage anxiety. With improved fitness and mental resilience, he successfully summited Mount Rainier on his second attempt. Jason Widup shares his experiences with mountaineering and how it has impacted his personal and professional life. He discusses the mental challenges he faced during training and dealing with injuries, as well as the importance of self-improvement and pushing boundaries. Jason also talks about sharing his journey with others and inspiring them to pursue their own goals. He emphasizes the need to be self-sufficient in the mountains and the desire to continue exploring and learning.

Takeaways

• Hiking and mountaineering can be effective ways to reduce stress and anxiety.
• Quitting marijuana can have a positive impact on fitness and overall well-being.
• Incorporating meditation and breathing exercises into daily routines can help manage anxiety.
• Reading books on breathing techniques can provide valuable insights and improve mental resilience.
• Improving fitness and mental resilience can lead to successful mountaineering expeditions. Mountaineering can have a profound impact on personal and professional growth
• Dealing with mental challenges and injuries is an important part of the journey
• Sharing experiences and inspiring others can be a rewarding aspect of mountaineering
• Continuously pushing boundaries and pursuing self-improvement is key
• Becoming self-sufficient in the mountains is a goal for many climbers

Engagement Link

https://www.linkedin.com/in/jasonwidup/

Breath by James Nestor: https://amzn.to/4dCVMYp

In this episode of the Finding Elevation podcast, Lisa Thompson and Tom Cuddy delve into the physiological adaptations that occur when ascending to high altitudes. They discuss the immediate and chronic changes in the body, including alterations in breathing, blood composition, and the role of CO2. The conversation also highlights genetic factors influencing altitude adaptation, insights from Sherpa and Tibetan populations, and practical tips for acclimatization. Additionally, they explore the importance of training for CO2 tolerance and assessing fitness levels for successful high-altitude experiences. In this conversation, Tom and Lisa discuss the intricacies of preparing for high-altitude climbs, focusing on physiological responses, training strategies, and recovery methods. They explore the benefits of hypoxic training, the importance of acclimatization, and the role of nitric oxide in enhancing performance. The discussion emphasizes the need for a balanced approach to training and recovery, particularly when preparing for challenging climbs like Everest or Aconcagua.

Takeaways

• Altitude affects every system in the body.
• Breathing rate and volume increase at high altitude.
• CO2 management is crucial for performance.
• Acute mountain sickness can result from low CO2 levels.
• EPO plays a significant role in red blood cell production.
• Genetics influence individual responses to altitude.
• Tibetan and Andean populations have adapted differently to high altitude.
• Training for CO2 tolerance can enhance performance.
• Ventilation capacity is critical for high altitude success.
• Assessing fitness levels can predict altitude adaptation.  Understanding your body's response to altitude is crucial.
• Hypoxic tents can aid in acclimatization but require commitment.
• Training load must be balanced with recovery to optimize performance.
• Nitric oxide plays a significant role in enhancing blood flow and performance.
• Acclimatization requires consistent exposure to higher elevations.
• The timeline for acclimatization is critical for successful climbs.
• Recovery strategies, including oxygen use, are essential after high-altitude climbs.
• Individual responses to altitude can vary significantly among climbers.
• Maintaining fitness is foundational for high-altitude success.
• Respecting the mountain's conditions is vital for safety and success.

Engagement Link

Tom’s Coaching Practice: http://calibratedcoaching.com/

Two routes to functional adaptation: Tibetan and
Andean high-altitude natives: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FRp9PNXrzB9j4CsOZGa5so3aLaUf_Zlv/view?usp=sharing

Nitric oxide in adaptation to altitude: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a1KusUQuYFejr6BHDJ6W3nx-UVHDqK8g/view?usp=sharing 

This episode of the Finding Elevation podcast focuses on the letdown effect that athletes often experience after achieving a peak moment, such as summiting a mountain. The letdown effect is characterized by a decline in physical and mental well-being, including symptoms like apathy and fatigue. The lack of routine and the loss of the close-knit team dynamic contribute to this feeling of letdown. The host provides several tools to help athletes work through the letdown effect, including taking a break, focusing on good nutrition and sleep, journaling, staying connected with the climbing community, practicing mindfulness and meditation, and planning the next adventure.

Takeaways

• The letdown effect is a common experience for athletes after achieving a peak moment.
• Taking a break and giving yourself permission to rest is important for recovery.
• Good nutrition and sleep are essential for physical and mental well-being.
• Journaling and staying connected with the climbing community can help with emotional and mental recovery.
• Practicing mindfulness and meditation can support mental fitness.
• Planning the next adventure can provide motivation and help overcome the letdown.

In this episode, Courtney Heitter discusses her journey as a mountaineer and the genesis of her podcast, 'You're Not Qualified.' She shares her experience of starting mountaineering without a background in athletics and how she overcame the belief that she wasn't qualified for certain pursuits. Courtney emphasizes the importance of listening to your own voice and not letting others define your capabilities. She also talks about reframing failure as a learning opportunity and the parallel trajectory between her climbing journey and her career. In this conversation, Courtney and Lisa discuss the importance of embracing discomfort and failure as part of the journey towards achieving dreams. They share personal experiences of facing challenges and overcoming self-doubt in mountaineering expeditions. Courtney emphasizes the value of surrounding oneself with supportive and honest individuals who believe in your abilities. They also discuss the significance of setting goals and pushing oneself outside of the comfort zone. Courtney shares her upcoming goals, including climbing Denali and other challenging peaks.

Takeaways

• Don't let the belief that you're not qualified hold you back from pursuing your passions.
• Listen to your own voice and prioritize your own goals and aspirations over what others say.
• Reframe failure as a learning opportunity and a stepping stone towards success.
• The journey and the process are just as important as reaching the summit. Embrace discomfort and failure as part of the journey towards achieving dreams.
• Surround yourself with supportive and honest individuals who believe in your abilities.
• Set goals and push yourself outside of your comfort zone.
• Learn from challenges and grow as a person.
• It's never too late to start pursuing your passions and dreams.

Engagement Link

https://www.instagram.com/ynqpod/

You're Not Qualified - A Podcast

In this inspiring podcast episode, join mountaineer, coach, and author Lisa Thompson as she shares her incredible journey from being an unathletic kid in Illinois to becoming a seasoned mountaineer in Seattle. Discover how defiance led her into the world of mountaineering and how she found her true purpose along the way. Lisa's story will ignite your own passion for adventure and inspire you to uncover your 'why' in pursuit of your passions. Learn why understanding your motivation is crucial in overcoming challenges and achieving your mountain climbing goals. Let Coach Lisa Thompson guide you in harnessing your 'why' to enrich your experiences, push through difficulties, and make every climb an elevation of your life.

Key topics Lisa covers include:

• [00:00:40] Choosing Your Why: The Defiant Path to Mountaineering
• [00:03:01] Finding My Why in the Mountains
• [00:06:57] Understanding your why: The importance of digging into your motivations for adventurous pursuits
• [00:20:53] Finding Your Why in Mountain Climbing

Resources

Mental Training for Ultrarunning  by Addie Bracy 

Community and Engagement Links

lisaclimbs.com

alpineathletics.net

In this conversation, Dave Taylor shares his journey of summiting Aconcagua, the highest mountain in South America, focusing on the lessons learned from his first attempt and the extensive preparation for his successful second attempt. The discussion covers the importance of team dynamics, personal reflection, training strategies, acclimatization, and the role of breath work in enhancing performance at high altitudes. Dave emphasizes the significance of self-assessment and adapting one's approach to achieve goals in mountaineering. In this conversation, Dave Taylor reflects on his recent climbing experience on Aconcagua, discussing the mental and physical preparation required for such an endeavor. He shares insights on overcoming self-doubt, the emotional journey to the summit, and the importance of focusing on the process rather than the outcome. The discussion also highlights the parallels between mountaineering and leadership, emphasizing the significance of training and mental resilience. Dave concludes with key takeaways for aspiring climbers, stressing the need for thorough preparation and a positive mindset.

Takeaways

• There are no failures, only lessons learned.
• Team dynamics play a crucial role in climbing success.
• Self-reflection is key to improvement.
• Preparation involves both physical and mental aspects.
• Acclimatization is essential for high-altitude climbing.
• Using guides can enhance the climbing experience.
• Breath work can significantly improve performance.
• Trusting the training process is vital.
• Personal accountability is important in team settings.
• Every climber has their own approach to summiting. Stay in your bubble and avoid negative comparisons.
• Preparation is key; train thoroughly for your goals.
• Mental strength is as important as physical fitness.
• The emotional journey to the summit can be complex.
• Summiting is just halfway; the descent is equally challenging.
• Stay focused on what you can control, especially in uncertain situations.
• Lessons from climbing can translate to leadership and teamwork.
• Process over outcome is crucial in achieving goals.
• Limit outside distractions to stay present in the moment.
• Understand the unique challenges of each mountain you climb.

Engagement Link

LinkedIn: LDR Leadership, www.ldrleadership.com 

 IG:  https://www.instagram.com/livefast_playhard/ 

Dave’s LinkedIn post about his Aconcagua summit: https://www.linkedin.com/posts/davidtaylor72_outdoors-climbing-process-activity-7280630851652968448-5Zwa?utm_source=combined_share_message&utm_medium=member_desktop_web 

Aconcagua is the highest peak in the southern and western hemispheres, located on the border between Argentina and Chile. It is a popular mountain for climbers who want to summit all seven summits or challenge themselves at high elevation. There are two main routes: the normal route and the 360 route. The normal route is straightforward but still challenging, taking about three weeks to complete. The 360 route is longer and less popular, but offers a more solitary and scenic experience. Climbers should be prepared for harsh weather, heavy packs, and rocky terrain. Training and acclimatization are key to success on Aconcagua.

Takeaways

• Aconcagua is the highest peak in the southern and western hemispheres, located on the border between Argentina and Chile.
• There are two main routes to climb Aconcagua: the normal route and the 360 route.
• Climbers should be prepared for harsh weather, heavy packs, and rocky terrain.
• Training and acclimatization are important for success on Aconcagua.

Engagement Link

Aconcagua: A Climbing Guide by Ralph Lee Hopkins with this hyperlink: https://amzn.to/4g3wogw

Aconcagua Training Guide: https://www.alpineathletics.net/multiweek-expedition

In this episode, Tracee Metcalfe shares her incredible journey of climbing all 14 of the world's highest peaks, reflecting on the challenges, logistics, and emotional significance of her climbs. She discusses the hardest climb, Annapurna, and the meaningful experience of summiting Shisha Pangma after a tragic avalanche. Tracee emphasizes the importance of teamwork with Sherpas, mental resilience, and the role of connectivity during her expeditions. She also opens up about her fear of heights and the techniques she used to manage it throughout her climbing career. In this conversation, Tracee Metcalfe shares her insights on climbing, focusing on the mental and physical preparation required for high-altitude expeditions. She discusses the importance of acknowledging fear, using mantras, and the role of meditation in managing anxiety. Tracee also reflects on her physical training regimen, the challenges of reintegrating into everyday life after expeditions, and the personal growth she has experienced through her climbing journey. She emphasizes the need to inspire others, particularly women, to pursue climbing and shares practical tips for first-time climbers.

Takeaways

• Tracee became the first US woman to complete climbing all 14 peaks.
• Annapurna was one of her most challenging climbs due to various issues.
• The emotional significance of summiting Shisha Pangma was profound for Tracee.
• She emphasizes the importance of letting Sherpas make safety decisions.
• Climbing rejuvenates her and provides a sense of purpose.
• She learned to manage her fear of heights through therapy techniques.
• Tracee reflects on the ethics of climbing and Sherpa safety.
• She acknowledges the challenges of logistics and planning for climbs.
• The journey of climbing has strengthened her relationships with family. Fear is a natural part of climbing that must be acknowledged.
• Using mantras can help calm the mind during climbs.
• Meditation can be beneficial for mental preparation.
• Physical training should be tailored to individual needs and limitations.
• Reintegration after an expedition can be challenging and requires self-compassion.
• Setting new goals can help with the transition back to everyday life.
• It's important to inspire others through personal climbing stories.
• Climbing is a journey of personal growth and self-acceptance.

Engagement Link

Tracee’s website: https://traceelmetcalfe.com

EMDR therapy: https://www.emdria.org/about-emdr-therapy/

Overview of 8,000 meter peaks: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eight-thousander

5280: https://www.5280.com/tracee-metcalfe-pursues-the-worlds-highest-mountains/ 

Ascend Athletics: https://www.ascendathletics.org