Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast (Eric J. Hörst)
Explorez tous les épisodes de Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
| Date | Titre | Durée | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 05 Oct 2022 | #80: Weekday Training for Weekend Sending! (FLASH edition #1) | 00:13:21 | |
Do you work or school full-time during the week, then on the weekends set off on a mission to climb your hardest? If so, then you've surely considered how to train most effectively during the workweek...to set yourself up for success on the rocks over the weekend. It is this situation that is the focus of this episode, in which I'll arm you with some strategies and tips for making the most of your weekday training. I'll also touch on some important non-training influences on your weekend climbing--arriving at the boulders or crag 100% ready to send is more than just a matter of physical preparation. 0:25 - Intro to the new "FLASH edition" of the Training For Climbing podcast 1:30 - TOPIC: Effective Weekday Training for Weekend Sending! (aka. Workweek training for the Weekend Warrior) 3:12 - Part #1 - The goals of weekday training....and how many days to climb/train? Weekday training should be designed to maintain energy system power, sharpen skills, and allow for enough rest to "peak" for weekend sending. 4:50 - Part #2 - What to do when you train? Limit serious weekday training/climbing to just two days (for most people that's two sessions, although for some elites it may be 2-a-day workouts on 2 days)....this could be Tuesday/Wednesday or Tuesday/Thursday. Which is right for you? 8:32 - Part #3 - The influence of non-climbing/non-training activities on your climbing performance. What you do when you're NOT climbing/training during the weekdays is massively important -- sleep, diet/nutrition, managing stress, and staying motivated to crush come the weekend are all vital factors. 11:00 - Wrap up and sponsor message. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com Did you enjoy this new FLASH edition format? If so, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music: FYYC! Remix of "It's Already for You" (The Police - aka. the best band ever) Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 02 Jun 2017 | Episode #13: Structuring Your Off-Season & In-Season Training for Peak Performance | 01:03:50 | |
Climbing is one of the most complex sports on this third rock from the sun, and training for climbing is an extraordinarily complex activity in its own right. While beginners should mainly climb as their training, progressing from the intermediate rank to advanced and elite ability demands an increasingly focused, demanding, and nuanced climbing-specific exercise program. In this podcast I'll provide an overview of how to best structure your off-season (for many of us, winter season) and in-season (when you most often climb outside for performance) training program. While off-season training should be designed and scheduled to produce significant gains in strength, power, and endurance...your in-season training should be programmed and scheduled in a way to maintain current levels of strength/power/endurance while fostering recovery between weekends (or days) of outdoor climbing...so that you can climb your best when you venture outdoors! If outdoor climbing performance is really important to you, then it's essential that you arrive at the boulders or crag 100% fresh and ready to give your project your best possible effort. Obviously, we're all different--more different than we are similar--so there's no single "best approach" or "best schedule" for training. Your challenge is to suss out the best program for YOU (and not copy what others are doing), and to actively modify your program and workout schedule to account for fatigue, injury, time availability, shifting goals, and changing strengths & weaknesses. This one-hour podcast will hit you with a lot of important information and ideas on scheduling and executing your off-season and in-season workouts to produce the largest gains, while also helping you to arrive at the crag physically fresh and ready to crush on your performance climbing days! Podcast Rundown: 2:30 - Introduction to structuring annual training program 4:00 - Philosophy of off-season vs. in-season training 4:00 - Philosophy of off-season vs. in-season training 9:00 - Overview of off-season (for most of us, winter season) training goals and strategy 14:00 - Benefits of a largely polarized approach to off-season training 17:00 - Targeting specific energy systems -- when best to engage in ultra-pumpy anaerobic lactic energy system training 20:00 - Addressing injuries in the off-season; Training around bouldering competitions in the winter season 21:20 - Winter training tips for beginning climbers wanting to improve most quickly...and develop long-term climbing mastery 23:50 - Intro to scheduling of in-season training 26:00 - The importance of impulse control and self-awareness to effective in-season training 34:20 - The best training program for you is.... 36:20 - Long-term improvement--how many years can you expect to improve at rock climbing? 40:50 - In-season tips to get your mid-week training "right"...so that you arrive at your project fresh on the weekend....and can climb your best 42:40 - Importance of targeting each energy system at least once per week during your on-season 46:30 - General structure of mid-week training for weekend "roped climbing" (sport or trad routes) 52:40 - Structure of mid-week training for weekend bouldering outings 57:05 - The importance of quality sleep and nutrition in training results and performance outcomes for advanced & elite climbers 1:00:00 - Wrap up and closing comments Music: Misty Murphy Copyright 2017 Eric J. Horst Training For Climbing, LLC | |||
| 10 Sep 2024 | #104: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Climbing Kids | 00:14:44 | |
In this Flash episode, I'm going to talk briefly about raising happy, healthy kids with a passion for climbing! There's no "right" way to raise kid climbers...but I'm going to share the approach that my wife and I used to develop well-rounded kids who, today as young adults (ages 22 and 24), love climbing more than ever! This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast. T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music: Remix of The Police Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 03 Nov 2018 | Episode #30: IRCRA Research Highlights & Training Tips | 01:09:20 | |
0:25 – Preview of this and upcoming podcasts. 5:55 - Overview of this summer's International Rock Climbing Researchers Association 4th Congress in Chamonix, France. 10:40 - Research highlight #1: 3-D motion analysis of speed climbing performance, and interpretation of hip mechanical energy in official speed climbing route. (Lionel Reveret - France). 14:45 - Research highlight #2: Effect of climbing hold depth on biomechanical arm action during pull-ups. (Laurent Vigouroux - France) 22:55 - Research highlight #3: PIP joint contact incongruency in different grip positions as a trigger for epiphyseal fatigue fracture in adolescent climbers. (Andreas Schweizer - Switzerland) 31:20 - Research highlights #4 & 5: Association between different Rate of Force Development-measurements and climbing performance (Vegard Vereide - Norway), and the Rate of Force Development: a new biomechanical key factor in climbing (Guillaume Levernier - France). 40:45 - Research highlight #6: The effects of weighted dead-hang training program on grip strength and endurance in experienced climbers with different levels of strength (Eva Lopez-Rivera - Spain). 52:52 - Research highlight #7: Qualitative analysis of two of 2017's greatest ascents and a proposed conceptual model for maximum-difficulty sport climbing and energy system requirements (Eric Hörst - USA) 1:05:08 - The ultimate lesson from Hayes' and Ondra's ascents—climb quickly, accurately, and efficiently, and pause to rest only at effective rest positions. In short, the Hörst rule for lead climbing peak performance: Climb fast and rest well! 1:07:24 - My shout out to a few of the numerous coaches now bringing climbing science to their work as trainers! If you enjoy this podcast, PLEASE SHARE it with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. Thank you!
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes! Photo: Eric Hörst presenting at the IRCRA conference in Chamonix, France, July 2018. | |||
| 01 Oct 2021 | Episode #67 - The Perfect Warm-up Protocol for Optimal Training & Sending! | 01:02:37 | |
One of the most powerful concepts I coach is that simple and seemingly "minor things" can make a MASSIVE difference in your training results and climbing performance. This is why I use the word "nuance" so often in my Training For Climbing podcasts! Warming up before training and climbing is one of those "minor things" that many people do hastily--or dismiss completely. Little do they know that they're sabotaging their ability to train and climb their best. They will likely get "flash pumped" and leak energy, fail to recruit full power, move inefficiently and with undue tension, fail prematurely on near-limit movements, and perhaps even set the stage for experiencing a muscle spasm, tendon tweak, or worse. In this podcast, coach Horst provides rich detail on how to perform the perfect warm-up. Yes, it's a relatively slow process with lots of details and nuance. But taking the time to warm up completely will set you up for an optimally effective workout and just maybe a low-gravity send day! RUNDOWN 0:30 - First thoughts on warming up -- it's not sexy, but doing it right is essential if you're to train/climb your best! 2:38 - Different training/climbing situations demand different approaches to warming up. 3:55 - Doing the perfect warm-up will build confidence, empower you to release full power...and is a contributing factor to "low gravity days". 5:00 - Why what most people do (or call) a "warm-up" isn't enough. 6:30 - How you feel on your boulders and routes is massively influenced by your warm-up...or lack of it. 9:30 - The "perfect" warm-up is personal--experiment to discover what gives you the best results. 11:30 - Hone in on your perfect warm-up protocol--make it repeatable! 12:20 - A repeatable warm-up empowers you to use autoregulation of your day's training or climbing plan. This is a powerful topic covered in podcast #20. Listen here >> 15:15 - SEVEN STEPS TO THE PERFECT WARM-UP 16:52 - Step 1: Spend a few minutes firing up your cardiovascular system. It's a small investment of time/effort, but it's vital for preparing the body for the remainder of the warm-up protocol. 19:12 - Step 2: Engaging in some dynamic stretching activities to lubricate connective tissues and joints. (A bit of static stretching of the legs and hips may be useful to increase range of motion before climbing.) Perform some low-intensity climbing movements provides a good dynamic warm-up of the tendons, ligaments, shoulders, core, hips, and more! 21:54 - Step 3: Activate the climbing-specific muscles (agonists) with a series of progressively more difficult pull-up movements and finger hangs (various grip positions). 26:34 - Step 4: Turn on your power! This step requires you to do some quick movements with the climbing muscles (power pull-ups, a small amount of campusing on large holds, and similar) to increase the rate of force development (for maximal finger contact strength and dynamic climbing power). 32:00 - Step 5: Turn on the anaerobic lactic and climbing-specific aerobic energy systems with a few warm-up routes or bouldering intervals that get you moderately pumped (level 8 out of 10 pump). Don't NOT climb to the point of a severe (flash) pump and muscular failure during your warm-up--this will adversely affect the rest of your session. 36:10 - Step 6: Turn on the antagonist muscle with a set of push-ups (or one set of moderately heavy bench press), a submaximal set of dips, a set of shoulder press, and some rotator cuff (one set of external rotation) and scapular stabilizer warm-ups using a TRX sling training or exercise band. 41:25 - Step 7: Perform a targeted core warm-up. Yes, doing a few sets of core exercises to fully recruit the core before performance climbing can be game-changing! 45:35 - 90-second podcast sponsor message -- Learn how you can climbing better, gain strength and endurance, recover faster, and become more injury resistant with PhysiVantage! 47:00 - Learn how to adjust your warm-up protocol for 3 common climbing and training situations. 47:30 - #1: An easy session at the gym or day of climbing bouldering or climbing. 49:10 - #2: A session of high-end training in the gym, or near-limit bouldering. 53:20 - #3: Route climbing for performance in the gym or at the crag. 1:00:45 - Closing thoughts. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts...and SHARE this podcast with a friend or on social media.! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||
| 06 Jun 2023 | #88: The Physical Differences Between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (and the Training Implications for Pursuiting Peak Performance in Each) | 00:29:30 | |
The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time! Obviously, bouldering and sport climbing are much different tactically and emotionally, and they are remarkably different in terms of the mental game, safety systems, and risk management strategies. However, the focus of this podcast is the obvious physical differences between these two popular climbing subdisciplines. We'll compare and contrast the energy systems involved in high-end bouldering versus sport climbing, and I'll give you some insight into the training methodology and keys to optimizing a training program designed for each. RUNDOWN 0:14 - Hello and Intro to this episode 1:30 - Overview of the differences between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (i.e. Route Climbing) 2:15 - Global concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time! 4:50 - Energy system uses in various types of climbing....and the analogy of various Track & Field events. 10:23 - Training implications of differing strength, power, and endurance requirements of these climbing sub-types. >> Listen to T4C podcasts #21 through #28 for an in-depth and cutting-edge look into the bioenergetics of climbing and Energy System Training for climbers. Episode #21 is here >> 12:15 - A generalized overview of effective training for bouldering. 16:05 - An rough overview of effective physical training for sport climbing. >> Link to recent podcast #85 on the value of running for climbers >> 21:24 - Effective training for someone desiring to performance well at both bouldering and sport climbing at the same time. 23:50 - Summary points 25:00 - Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 26:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by The Police (Remixes) Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 14 May 2019 | Episode #35: Ask Coach Hörst - Round 5 | 00:48:38 | |
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the interesting topics covered are...the science of "supercompensation", the use of gymnastic exercises in training, dealing with recurrent injuries, fingerboard training, mental training and "head space" development, endurance training, running, and more! It's 45 minutes of training-for-climbing information and fun. Listen in! Podcast Rundown 4:48 - Question #1 - What exactly is "supercompensation" and how does the intensity and frequency of my training affect supercompensation and my strength and fitness gains? 14:45 - Question #2 - Are calisthenics and gymnastic exercises beneficial for climbers? If so, how can I best add them to my program? 20:35 - Question #3 - For the past two years I've been stuck in a cycle of injury including both of my elbows and one shoulder. I tend to be hyper mobile...so perhaps I'm just not meant to be a climber. What do you think Eric? Is there any hope for me to have an injury-free climbing season? 26:10 - Question #4 - I'm a veteran climber, with lots of alpine experience, but I consider myself rather weak (I can redpoint 5.12c). I'm beginning a hangboard training program with weighted hangs and repeaters--can I do both of these in the same workout session or would that be counterproductive? Can you give me some advice on how to hangboard train effectively? 31:10 - Question #5 - I'm a 5.11 sport and gym climber, but I struggle at leading 5.9 trad (gear) routes...due to fear? How can I begin to "mental train" to improve my headspace for success on harder traditional climbs? 37:00 - Question #6 - I have climbed 5.14 and V10, yet on my recent (first) visit to the Red River Gorge I got totally spanked on the long steep endurance routes of a much lower grade? How can I better prepare for climbing at steep crags like at the Red River Gorge? 41:50 - Question #7 - I'm an avid boulderer with a background in cycling and running. Right now, I'm running for up to 45 minutes, a few days per week, because it makes me feel better and keep my weight in check for climbing. Is this amount of running hurting my recovery from climbing and training for climbing? When's the best time to do my runs--on climbing or on non-climbing days?
NOTE: If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing -- include your first name, location, climbing ability level, and years climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 06 May 2021 | Episode #61 - Slowing the Pump Clock | 00:51:38 | |
Training to get stronger is good. Learning to climb more efficiently so that you can get the most out of the strength and power you currently possess is SMART! So if you want to progress from good to great, then this podcast is for you! Learn 5 powerful strategies for climbing more efficiently, recovering more quickly, and leveling up your climbing. Podcast Rundown 0:15 - Roll up your sleeve to receive the Horst booster of Training For Climbing knowledge! 1:55 - Intro to becoming a more efficient climber with more endurance on steep terrain. 4:00 - Key point: When climbing near your limit, little things can make a BIG difference! Eric's favor word in coaching: "nuance"! 4:47 - Improvement demands change. Welcome it. 5:35 - 5 strategies for slowing down the pump clock, improving endurance, and leveling up! 6:34 - Strategy #1: Strive to climb with more economy. Make it a goal to improve a bit each your. Practice new techniques...with a never-ending desire to learn and improve. 9:00 - Key point: Importance of reducing time under tension while grip near-limit holds. 12:38 Exploit Eric's bi-modal approach to climbing steep, strenuous boulders and routes. 13:25 - When able, vary grip position throughout longer climbs. 16:17 - Climb more with hip turns, drop knees, back steps, and twist locks. On steep, difficult routes, try to void long sequences of "neutral" climbing. 20:43 - Strategy #2: Begin "micro resting" between hand grips on hard sequences. Encourage blood flow and maximize use of the aerobic energy system...so as to slow the drain of the finite anaerobic reserve. 25:15 - Strategy #3: Try to find a "thank God" rest on every hard route. Be creative. Experiment. Practice. Win more often...and punt less! 31:31 - Strategy #4: Use the "G-tox" recovery technique at rest positions on difficult routes. This will aid faster recovery compared with the standard dangling-arm shakeout. 38:00 - Strategy #5: Consume foods and supplements with nitrates...and other ingredients that improve circulation and enhance use of the oxidative energy system. Read more about Endure X here >> 46:50 - Summary of tips and strategies for improving your endurance and climbing harder! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on your FIRST PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! RETURNING CUSTOMERS: Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||
| 10 Apr 2023 | #86: The Road to 5.13a - A Personalized Training Strategy with Ryan Devlin | 01:18:25 | |
What's it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my prescription for one 5.12 climber looking to project -- and send -- his first 5.13a before year's end. In an interesting and entertaining departure from the typical T4C podcast, you get to listen in on a 70-minute training consult with Ryan Devlin, a client for whom I first wrote a training program about 3 years ago. Since then, Ryan's become a solid 5.12a/b climber with redpoints up to 5.12d. But taking it to the next level will require a modified and comprehensive program...which is the focus of our discussion. Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be! This episode is a collaboration and co-branded The Struggle and Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 08 Aug 2024 | #102: The Road to 5.13a - Part 4: Closing the Deal! | 01:29:58 | |
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for Ryan Devlin as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force". This is a follow-up to episodes #86, #91, and #94, in which I coach Ryan through the long process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way, including a minor finger/hand injury early this year. We'll discuss Ryan's training plan for the next 6 to 8 weeks until the Autumn "send season" arrives. We'll also dig deep into these important topics:
So lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be! This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 10 Aug 2020 | Episode #51 - Tips to Climb Your Best on Weekend Outings or a Road Trip | 01:01:49 | |
You've been dreaming about your boulder project, dream route, or road trip. You've trained smart and hard. Your psych is high. You're ready to crush! So, how can you best transition from gym to outdoor climbing, and what can you do to perform your best on weekends outdoors or on a long trip? In this episode, Eric presents a series of powerful tips that you can take to the send bank! He also provides awareness of the potential to self-sabotage, something that even the most experienced climber can succumb to. RUNDOWN 0:15 – Opening comments--I missed you! 2:58 - Introduction to this episode on climbing tips and strategies for optimal performance on weekend trips and on longer road trip 4:06 - A few brief comments about the challenging and, at times, tumultuous events of the past few months... 7:56 - Eric's philosophy about the power of climbing--it brings us together! 9:30 - Tips, topics, and techniques to help you reach your climbing goals this season...as a weekend warrior and on a longer road trip. 10:22 - How to properly taper your training in the days leading up to your outdoor climbing. "Tapering" ahead of a weekend trip is much different than doing a proper training taper ahead of a month-long road trip. Learn the details so that you get it right--a proper taper is hugely important for climbing your strongest! 14:10 - When you arrive at your destination crag...what's the best climbing approach on the first few days? Should you go straight to your project...or should you spend a few days adjusting and acclimating to the outdoor climbing location? 18:00 - On longer trips, most climbers experience a "peak" during the first 1 to 3 weeks of the trip...but they then experience a gradual decline in maximum strength and power with each additional week removed from your training. 19:15 - Why pro climbers often limit climbing trips to one month. 19:29 - Comments about Alex Megos sending Bibliographie, the world's second 5.15d/9c route. CONGRAT ALEX! 20:40 - How as a weekend warrior you can best schedule climbing trips and find the training-and-climbing "rhythm" that best serves you. Plan several months ahead on a paper calendar...this way you can better see the training blocks and travel dates. 22:06 - On a long trip, how many days in a row can you climb? How many days per week is it best to climb? Answer: It depends on many variables...which I'll describe. 23:53 - Learn why a significant number of climbers return from a road trip with a tweak or more significant injury. Learn how you can avoid "walking off the cliff" of sudden, debilitating injury. 26:26 - Specific tips for optimizing recovery and lowering injury risk while on a climbing trip. 28:28 - Learn how to wrap up a long road trip and transition back into training at home. Should you take a break from training for a few days or more? 32:50 - Post-trip, most climbers will need a 2- to 4-week training block to regain top-end finger strength and power. 33:40 - About self-sabotage...it's happened to me...and I'm sure to you as well at some point. Let's unpack a few common scenarios for self-sabotage. 34:24 - Self-Sabotage #1: "Flinching" on the first day working a near-limit project route. TRUST THE PROCESS! Don't give up too fast. 37:55 - However, don't over-reach too far...and get bogged down for many days (or weeks) on a single route. Don't allow your climbing trip to turn into a suffer-fest. Try to balance days of sending (sub-max routes) with days of projecting on near-limit routes. 40:00 - Self-Sabotage #2: Not doing an appropriate warm-up...and rushing to get on your project boulder or route too fast. You can NOT climb your best without a proper warm-up that turns on your nervous system, ignites your climbing-specific aerobic system, lubricates your tendons and joints, and readies your generalize aerobic/CV system. Learn how to do it right! 43:50 - Self-Sabotage #3: Not eating right. Consuming adequate protein and carbohydrates is essential to climbing your best, keeping energy levels ups, recovering optimally, and lowering injury risk. Learn how to keep your power-to-weight ratio up and accelerate recovery on a road trip. Read more about the protein needs of a hard-training strength/power athlete like you! 49:09 - Some meal suggestions and tips for breakfast, snacks, and dinner. What's a common breakfast food of many top climbers? Find out! 50:10 - How many calories do you likely need for bouldering and sport climbing...and on a sedentary rest day? (Big wall and mountain climbers have a much higher daily caloric need than climbers doing stop-and-go bouldering and sport climbing.) 52:06 - Eric's closing--and powerful--comments about setting big goals, pursuing them energetically, and stacking the odds in your favor. You must believe that "what you want, wants you"! Then take daily action and resist the ways (and traps) of the masses. Find your own unique life path, and enjoy your journey. 54:54 - What's the secret sauce that makes for unique and amazingly pro climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Margo Hayes, and many others (I can't name them all!)? Listen, learn, model, plot, course correct, and never give up! 55:55 - The importance of avoiding the traps of the common man... 59:19 - There are a LOT of things that determine climbing performance--the more puzzle pieces you can put together, the better you will become! 1:00:00 – Please check out and support T4C podcast sponsor PhysiVantage. Research-based, athlete-proven performance nutrition for climbers--use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% off full-price items. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! 1:00:50 - PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||
| 25 Oct 2017 | Episode #17: How to Manage the Fear of Falling | 01:19:01 | |
If you occasionally struggle with the fear of falling, then this podcast is for you! While the fear of falling is most acute among beginner and intermediate climbers, it's a fact that advanced climbers and the pros also experience a bit of falling fear from time to time. After all, fear is an important self-protective response—the goal, then, isn’t to eliminate fear, but to manage it…which is the focus of this podcast. My Lithuanian friends, Dei and Ben, have created a series of excellent YouTube videos (called “Day in Nature“) with the common theme of exploring the fear of falling. I was happy to join Dei and Ben (and their YouTube channel viewers) for this online coaching session, in which I answer their fear-related questions and share a variety of mental training tips to better manage fear and advance their climbing ability. No matter if you're an indoor climber, boulderer, or sport climber, I trust you'll find some useful tips and techniques to address your unique vertical-world concerns and fearful experiences. Ultimately, learning to expertly manage fear is a long-term endeavor—there are no quick fixes—and so I hope this hour-plus-long podcast will help kick-start your journey to becoming a more confident, in-control, and courageous climber! Podcast Rundown: 1:07 - Introducing Jerry Moffatt's MASTERMIND! 2:04 - Eric's intro to coaching the fear of falling. 3:45 - Beginning discussion with Dei & Ben of "Day in Nature" 5:00 – The goal of controlling fear rather than letting fear control you! 10:00 - Legitimate fears vs. phantom fears. 11:30 - The importance of taking practice falls (in a very safe, controlled setting). 13:40 - How to combat fears of the rope getting cut...or a bolt pulling out. 18:45 - Developing the skill of managing fear is a long-term process....that takes effort over months & years. 19:30 - Why do some people conquer fear faster than others? 22:30 - A look inside Alex Honnold's brain (via MRI)...and his "quiet" amygdala. 27:23 - How to handle fear of runouts between bolts? 31:24 - Value of reading books on mental training (such as Warriors Way, Maximum Climbing, MasterMind). 37:00 - Mental training should be comprehensive...and not just focused on managing fear. This is a rich area with potential for huge breakthroughs in performance! 38:12 - Mental training literally changes your brain (neuroplasticity). 38:30 - Using breath-focused meditation as training (at home) and for performance (at the crag). 40:50 - For expertly skilled climbers, further improvement often comes down to mental training...and getting stronger! 41:15 - What about grabbing the rope (or quick draws) when falling? 43:10 - Tips for returning to climbing after an injurious fall. 48:45 - Why are children often less scared of falling than adults? 53:10 - What about fear when clipping the second bolt of a route? 56:23 - How to assess a fall…determining a "safe fall" vs. a dangerous fall situation? 59:55 - What about climbers who never fall (because they climb so far below their maximum ability)? How much harder might they be able to climb by becoming willing/able to fall? 1:03:50 - Who was the most fearful that I've ever coached or climbed with? 1:06:00 - The difference between Anxiety vs. Fear. 1:07:01 - The importance of "mete-cognition"...for improving your mental game and performance (in anything). 1:08:45 - Recognizing and breaking fear "triggers". 1:10:16 - Just as you train your muscles with exercises...it's essential to use mental training exercise to strengthen your mental muscle! 1:12:20 - My two favorite mental training exercises are.... 1:14:44 - How to do effective visualization? (Hint: It must be more than just a mental rehearsal of sequence!) 1:16:30 - Closing comments by Dei & Ben. 1:17:30 - Eric wraps up podcasts...and asks YOU to share it with a few friends! Music by Misty Murphy
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| 22 Aug 2023 | #90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best! | 00:24:57 | |
For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending. With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for dialing in your training now to climb your best in October and November. Lean into this podcast...and let's prepare to SEND! RUNDOWN 0:14 - Welcome message. 00:50 - Introduction to...6 weeks to send season! 2:57 - 3 key steps for effective training over the weeks until your performance season begins. 4:10 - #1: Identify your specific goal for the Autumn climbing season. Where will you mostly be climbing and what's the physical nature of the climbing there? What's your "super bowl"...that is, the most important project boulder or route? 8:42 - #2: Spend less time strength training and more time climbing! Over the coming weeks, taper off climbing-specific strength exercises and put down the heavy free weights until your next off-season. 12:25 - #3: Consider your body composition--is it currently optimal for climbing your best on steep boulders and long, overhanging routes? If not, what calorie-dense junk/pleasure foods can you reduce or eliminate until after send season is over? Consider running a few days per week to increase caloric expenditure and spin-up cardiovascular fitness (especially helpful for route climbers). 19:52 - Summary points 22:12 - Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! 23:00 - LET'S GET THE SEND TRAIN ROLLING! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by The Police (Remixes) Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 03 Sep 2021 | Episode #66 - 10 Powerful Tips to Climb Harder Boulders and Routes | 00:49:32 | |
This T4C episode serves up numerous powerful tips--that you can put to work immediately--to more effectively work on hard boulders and routes...and send more quickly! Learn about the power of proprioception and "feel beta" (a coach Hörst secret...shush!), why it's vital to keep an open mind in working crux sequences, how you can reduce your chances of "punting", the benefits of engaging in active recovery between send goes, and the importance of trusting the process and letting the outcome fold organically. RUNDOWN 0:40 - Podcast Intro 3:38 - Eric mentions his livestream Training Cafes--he invites you to join in and ask training questions. Tune in every other Monday at Noon ET on Eric's Training For Climbing YouTube and Training for Climbing Facebook page. 5:45 - Introducing the main topic: 10 Powerful Tips to project more effectively and send more quickly. 6:50 - TIP #1 - Don't view the boulder or route as an overwhelming whole, but instead break it down into more manageable and believable parts. 9:32 - TIP #2 - Don't rush to judgement on the crux sequence--keep an open mind and keep testing other beta options even when you're many days into a project. 15:50 - TIP #3 - In working the hardest moves identify the proprioceptive feel of doing the move effectively--take note of this powerful "feel beta" and leverage it to succeed on your send go. Lean into this one...listen, learn, and employ! 21:16 - TIP #4 - Practice the top portion of the route a lot more than you think is necessary--get it totally wired and automatic, so there's no doubt you can climb it pumped on point. 23:37 - TIP #5 - When you first succeed on the crux sequence, don't rush to redpoint...but instead repeat the crux again to confirm the foot beta and feel beta! 26:50 - Brief commercial break - Save $10 on your first purchase of PhysiVāntage Nutrition. Use checkout code "10DOLLARS". This promotion is valid only during the month of September--don't miss this chance to FEEL the PhysiVāntage at a great discount price! 28:15 - TIP #6 - Cut yourself free of unnecessary fear load! Learn to better manage your climbing fears...heeding legitimate fears and dismissing phantom fears. Listen to podcasts #62 and #65 which provide in-depth instruction on becoming an expert fear manager. 31:09 - TIP #7 - Engage in active recovery between working burns or send goes. A short walk can do wonders for your recovery--learn why...and exactly what you should do. 36:10 - TIP #8 - Build a boulder or route simulator to train for longer-term, distant projects. Build route-specific strength! 39:47 - TIP #9 - Begin each redpoint day with one no-pressure trial run to get a route-specific warm-up and to gain a refresher on the "feel beta". 41:55 - TIP #10 - Trust the process and let the send happen when it's meant to happen! Expect success, but accept that it's okay to feel...because you know the boulder or route will be yours exactly when it's meant to be. 47:40 - Parting comments. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts...and share this podcast with a friend or on social media. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||
| 28 Aug 2018 | Episode #28: Energy System Training (part 5) - The Art of the Science | 01:28:40 | |
This is the fifth and final episode in our study of Energy System Training theory and application. In this 90-minute tour de force, Eric presents the art of the science via 8 key ideas and distinctions to make your energy system training optimally effective. This is powerful material—understanding and applying this cutting-edge sports science will empower you to elevate your training outcomes...and climb harder! Podcast Rundown 2:50 – Recap of the genesis of my study of energy systems more than 5 years ago. After a two-year review of the latest research and sports science, I discovered that some aspect of the old school sports science—and even some physiology textbooks—were outdated and even wrong on some important details. Therefore, what I’m trying to do with my book Training for Climbing and these podcasts is apply the latest sports science, research, and training technology to climbing. Only this way will we optimize training programs and advance the sport! 5:20 – What I’m presenting in this series of 5 podcasts is the cutting edge of training for climbing…that may open the door to 5.16a in the next 5 to 10 years...and help the mass of climbers achieve their climbing goals and beyond! 8:15 – Eric shares a brief anecdote from his week at the International Rock Climbing Researchers congress in Chamonix, France...about meeting the Japan National Climbing Team head coach Hiroshi Yasui. 10:58 – The focus of this podcast is the art of the science…via 8 key ideas and distinctions to make energy system training optimally effective. This is important and powerful summary material that will pull together the key concepts from the 4 previous podcasts…and empower you to get the most out of your training both in the short and long term. 13:08 – How advanced training is like playing 3-D chess. 14:20 – Key Idea #1: Though we talk about (and train) them separately, all 3 energy systems contribute toward power in almost every climbing move and training exercise. It's vitally important to understand how the three energy pathways influence, support, and even inhibit each other. 17:10 – Key Idea #2: Effective energy system training must target a specific pathway as much as possible. To optimally trigger training adaptations, the goal is to maximize the flux through a single energy pathway. You can’t train intuitively…or go to the gym and “just climb”—this approach is too imprecise for an advanced climber to make meaning gains. 21:30 – Key Idea #3: Working on your project is not effective energy system training. Listen and learn why… 24:55 – A quick side story about Alex Megos working on the "Bibliography" project at Céüse…quite possibly a 9c/5.15d route. 27:54 - Key Idea #4: Energy system training for short-term adaptations and long-term gains are two very different things. While the former may help you send your current project, it's a commitment to the latter that will help you reach your genetic potential. 31:54 – Learn the secrets to long-term gains—which energy system(s) will advance your climbing…and what novel training adaptations you are after. This is brand new material to the climbing world—listen closely! (I first introduced this cutting-edge sport science in the first energy system training podcast in March 2018.) 36:40 – A brief, but important tangent on long-term development and mastery. As exemplified by Chris Sharma and Tommy Caldwell, you too can build-up strength, power, and endurance for 15 or 20 years (perhaps longer)….if you stay uninjured! 43:00 – Key Idea #5: Genetics do play a roll in determining your training gains and absolute climbing potential. Like it or not, genetics does play a role in training adaptations and how hard you may someday climb. That said, you can exert significant influence over your gene expression via the epigenetic effects of your day-to-day diet, training, and lifestyle. Energy System Training is one way to exert influence over your genes! 54:06 – Key Idea #6: A two-a-day workout schedule can be very beneficial for advanced/elite climbers, but the two sessions should be separated by 6 to 8 hours to optimize workout quality and minimize interference (of adaptation signaling). Intense strength/power workouts are best done in the afternoon or evening, so other forms of training—aerobic climbing, generalized aerobic activity, and similar—are best done early in the day (based on science). Of course, everyone is different (genetics, time available, other life issues)...and so your "best schedule" might require a different approach. #Nuance 1:00:30 – Bonus tip: Reduce or eliminate your antagonist training during your climbing performance season. Learn why this will help a well-trained, non-injured climber perform a bit better. 1:03:00 – Key Idea #7: You can learn and benefit a lot by keeping records of your workouts, subjective feelings, key performance indicators, and your climbing achievements. Digital and other online records, like 8a.nu and Vertical-Life.info, are a good place to start; but written records have great value, too. Learn why. 1:06:35 – Key Idea #8: Energy system programming is the ultimate "art of the science". Getting long term results requires a knowledgable coach, accurate testing, and progression program design that is artfully crafted around periods of performance climbing and/or competition. Personalized training is essential—nuance is key. 1:08:47 – Eric offers training program advice for beginners. 1:11:55 – Some programming tips for intermediate/accomplished climbers. 1:14:45 – Short- and long-term training program advice for advanced weekend warriors and professional/elite climbers. 1:22:27 – Summary comments about energy system training and the future of training for climbing. How high quality information and coaching is like a power tool that, through leverage, multiplies your current strength, talent, and climbing ability. Seek out the best information and coaches available—and become the best climber you can be! 1:24:00 - My thoughts on how becoming a better climber can make you a better human being...and empower you to positively impact other people (and perhaps change the world!) in small, but meaningful ways. PLEASE SHARE THIS PODCAST with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. Thank you!
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes! Photo: Cameron Horst lowering after the send at Tetto di Sarre, Italy. | |||
| 03 Jan 2024 | #95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness | 00:43:45 | |
Do you want to level up in climbing...and across the board in your life? Many folks use the fresh start of a new year to set some goals and make course corrections in important life areas. I'm one of those people...and since you're listening to this podcast, you probably are too! Towards this end, this episode transcends climbing performance...and aspires to increase human performance. I will present to you 15 powerful strategies and concepts that have shaped my MO in climbing and life over the past 30 years...and I trust you'll find this information empowering and actionable in your own quest to level up your performance in climbing, career, and beyond! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings and Happy New Year! 0:50 - Use the new year to evaluate your life across the board...and make course corrections! 3:20 - Introduction to Eric's "Mental Wings" concepts and strategies 5:02 - Overview of human performance -- YOU, dear listener, are far more powerful than you can possibly imagine! 12:30 - Brief Podcast Sponsor message from PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-price nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). International climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop >> 14:30 - 15 Mental Wings concepts and strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness 16:30 - #1: Your quality of life is directly related to the quality of your thoughts 18:15 - #2: Human beings are the embodiment of unused potential. 19:00 - #3: To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do. 21:10 - #4: Clarity of values and goals, and a clear purpose for living form the foundation for a life full of rich, transcending experiences. 22:10 - #5: Risk is a precursor to reward. 23:15 - #6: Almost anything is possible once you conquer fear. 26:12 - #7: Singular focus and indomitable persistence knows no limits. 27:30 - #8: Obstacles and adversity make you stronger. 29:55 - #9: A fit body potentiates a fit mind. 30:20 - #10: Life is subtle—sweat the small stuff! 33:47 - #11: Your future is largely determined in the brief moment between stimulus and response (in any activity). 35:15 - #12: Maintain a dynamic, evolving life process by reinventing yourself from time to time. 36:55 - #13: Enjoy this moment—this moment is your life. 37:47 - #14: Unconditional love is the most powerful force in the universe. 38:20 - #15: In the final analysis, you are mostly self-made. 40:25 - Summary thoughts -- please share this podcast with a friend...or on your Social Media. (Thanks!) 42:00 - Send off! A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 11 Sep 2023 | #91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project! | 00:58:28 | |
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year. This is a follow-up to episode #86, in which I presented to Ryan a three-season program for achieving his first 5.13 send. You will hear where Ryan is at with his training--and his project selection!--and I'll help Ryan develop his Autumn season gameplan for working the route...and hopefully clipping the chains by season's end! Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be! This episode is a collaboration and co-branded The Struggle and Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 06 Aug 2019 | Episode #38: Ask Coach Horst (Round 6 of Training For Climbing Questions) | 00:52:26 | |
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...energy system training for alactic power, climbing-specific aerobic energy system training, Tabata training on a hangboard, advice for a beginner wanting to hangboard train, the pros/cons of Ketogenic diet, accelerating healing of an A2 pulley injury. Listen in! Podcast Rundown 4:57 - Question #1 - How important is a climbing-specific aerobic training block at the beginning of a training cycle? 9:42 - Question #2 - Can you provide me with tips on staying healthy and motivated...and supporting my longevity in climbing? 16:12 - Question #3 - How many exercises can I include in an alactic energy system training session for developing maximum strength and power? 22:30 - Question #4 - I've read about the Tabata training protocol and I'm wondering what you think of applying it to hangboard training...by alternating 20-second hangs with 10 seconds of rest? 27:50 - Question #5 - I'm new to climbing and I feel that my weak fingers are a limiting constraint. Do you agree with the common rule of "no hangboard training in the first year of learning to climb"? 32:44 - Question #6 - I've been on a ketogenic diet for the past 3 weeks, and I feel terrific! What's your opinion the ketogenic diet and what are the pros and cons for a climber? 42:05 - Question #7 - I recently injured (mild pain) both of my middle fingers on a tweaky move. I've been doing light stretching and very light exercise to help support healing--what other things can I do to accelerate the healing process?
NOTE: If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing -- include your first name, location, climbing ability level, and years climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 10 Mar 2020 | Episode #45 - Ask Coach Horst (Training for Climbing Questions Answered) | 00:58:06 | |
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 9 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...hangboard training, diagnosing a finger injury, autoregulation use in competition, energy system training, optimal training for a Masters climber, protein requirements, and blood flow restriction training. Listen in! Podcast Rundown 0:15 - Introduction to Ask Coach Horst 1:45 - About POWERPLEX plant-based protein and collagen alternative for vegan climbers. Use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage products. 3:05 - Question #1 - What are your thoughts on hangboard training on climbing days...as well as on consecutive days? 7:50 - Question #2 - Can you give me some insight into my finger injury...which is painful at the base of the ring finger, but also extends down into the palm and forearm? 10:10 - Question #3 - What's the optimal length of rest between strength/power exercises and powerful bouldering? 14:15 - Question #4 - What do you think about the use of auto-regulation on competition days? Might the findings potentially hurt the mental state of the athlete? (Learn more about Auto-Regulation in Podcast #44.) 19:00 - Question #5 - How can I incorporate Energy System Training concepts into a periodized training program? (Learn more about Energy System Training in podcasts #21 - #28.) 26:00 - Question #6 - What advice do you have for a 50-something climber wanting to train right and climb for many years to come? 32:54 - Question #7 - How much protein do I need to consume daily to recover optimally? 41`:40 - Question #8 - When doing weighted pull-ups should I go down the whole way or should I maintain a bit of arm-bend at the bottom? 45:40 - Question #9 - I'd like to do some blood flow restriction training (BFR) -- what protocol do you recommend for a healthy climber?
Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 01 Apr 2019 | Episode #33: Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments | 01:09:11 | |
Get ready for some breakthrough research-based information that, I believe, is revolutionary for hard-training climbers! The topic is sinew training—that is, new training and nutritional interventions shown to promote tendon, ligament, and muscle matrix strength and health. We all know how hard climbing (and training) is on the flexor tendons and ligament pulleys of the fingers, as well as the elbows and shoulders; so what could be more valuable to climbers than strategies to improve sinew health, strength, and performance? This is an information-rich podcast that might require a couple of listens...to determine how you can best apply and benefit from this new material. The next three podcasts will expand on this topic with details on specific training interventions for strengthening (and rehabbing) sore or tweaked tendons and pulleys. If you are a proactive, early adapter kind of person, then this is cutting-edge information I'm sure you'll be all over...like chalk on a crux hold! A final note: If you enjoy this podcast, then please share it with a friend, post to social media, or write a review. Thank you! Rundown 1:00 – Introduction to a new series of podcasts on sinew training—how to develop stronger, stiffer, healthier tendons and ligaments. This is the first of four episodes in the series…breaking new ground that I feel is revolutionary for climbers. 3:00 – Tendons and ligaments are not inert—they change and adapt to training in adulthood, but at a much slower rate than muscles do. And, sinew training requires unique training modalities and nutritional interventions. PhysiVāntage 5:20 – A quick rundown of the next 3 episodes in this series….and the exciting ground I’ll be covering. 7:00 – Eric gives a brief introduction of himself and his background for new listeners. Additional comments of recent advances in training for climbing. 10:10 – A reflection on last year’s series of podcasts on Energy System Training—powerful material for intermediate, advanced, and elite climbers. If you haven’t already, listen to these podcasts! # ??? 13:00 – Introduction to sinew training…and the exciting new sport science I’m bringing to the climbing world in this series of podcasts. 15:30 – The importance of training to avoid injury and stay healthy, so that you can reach your goals! There’s a huge cost to injuries…lost seasons, missed competitions, setbacks and lost seasons. 20:00 – There are decades of knowledge gathered and distributed on muscle training and adaptations…but until recently there’s little research and scant instruction on sinew training. 23:00 – The importance of staying curious! Embracing and applying the latest research is key to progress and breakthroughs in most complex fields/endeavors. 28:00 – Three findings of my two years of research into sinew health and sinew training. 28:30 – Finding #1: Sinew is plastic. Tendons, ligaments, and extracellular muscle matrix change, adapt, and remodel very slowly…and you can play a role in this process! 34:00 – Distinct training and nutritional interventions do influence sinew health, strength, and performance. 35:00 – Finding #2: Tendons can hypertrophy. In certain situations, chronic mechanical loading can lead to slightly hypertrophy over years of exercise. Research has documented that the finger flexor tendons of veteran climbers are up to 50% thicker than non-climbers. 39:00 – Hypertrophy results from long-term training stimulus that slightly degrades collagen…followed by a rise in collagen synthesis during a recovery period of 48 to 72 hours. This cyclic process will gradually build stronger connective tissues given appropriate mechanical loading and rest periods. Nutrition plays an important role in the process, too—more on this in a bit! 41:35 – Sinew has poor blood flow compared to muscles…and there’s scant blood flow to sinew after training. 44:45 – Homeostasis perturbation from long-term overtraining (under-resting and perhaps poor nutrition) leads to disorganized and damaged collagen fibrils…that may be the root cause of the sudden “surprise” finger pulley tweak or onset of painful tendons in the elbows and shoulders. 48:15 – Finding #3: There is a proven nutritional intervention that increases collagen synthesis in connective tissues…and can support sinew recovery and strengthening. Research by Keith Baar and Greg Shaw has shown a doubling of collagen synthesis with vitamin C enriched hydrolyzed collagen consumed 30 to 60 minutes before exercise. 55:30 – Why nutrients consumed after exercise aren’t as effective for nourishing tendons. Synovial fluid diffusion during mechanical loading is the primary method of nourishment to sinew—thus, consuming a glycine and proline rich food before training is the best method of “feeding” sinew. 59:20 – My morning ritual for optimally feeding the tendon and ligaments of my fingers, arms and shoulders—15 minutes to stronger tendons. Supercharged Collagen works! 1:03:00 – You are playing a role in your tendon health…every day! Cease the opportunity to play an active role in the process. 1:04:10 – Introducing PhysiVāntage! Our flagship product is Supercharged Collagen. Based on the research of Drs. Baar and Shaw, this is the most advanced tendon and ligament support supplement on the market. Use it daily to get a PhysiVantage! Get 10% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code SAVE10 at checkout. Instagram - @PhysiVantage Facebook - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes! | |||
| 13 Dec 2022 | #82: 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!) | 00:33:07 | |
In this fast-paced episode, Eric details 7 end-of-climbing-season mistakes that you don't want to make! Becoming aware of common training mistakes, seasonal traps, and/or counterproductive behaviors that climbers commonly succumb to can save you a lot of time and energy, elude setbacks and unintended consequences, and perhaps even avoid injury. Launch into the New Year healthy, motivated, and with a plan for reaching your training and climbing goals! RUNDOWN 00:43 - Intro to 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!) 01:40 - Learn a powerful decision-making mantra to help avoid gross errors in training, risk management, and more! 03:28 - Mistake #1: Not taking an inventory of the past year's successes (and not counting your blessings). 05:42 - Mistake #2: Not analyzing the causes of your climbing shortcomings and/or setbacks. 08:14 - Mistake #3: Ignoring your end-of-season aches and pains. 14:28 - A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! 16:14 - Mistake #4: Not engaging in a brief "deload" period of reduced training intensity and/or frequency. 18:12 - Mistake #5: Taking a nearly total break from all training and climbing for many weeks or months. 21:45 - Mistake #6: Putting on a "Winter 10" (i.e. ~10 pounds of off-season weight gain). 25:20 - Mistake #7: Not setting a few compelling climbing goals for the new year...and not developing a training program and system for reaching those specific goals. 28:55 - Here are a few must-listen T4C episodes on developing training programs and a system for success: Podcast #57 – A Simple System for Extreme Success! Podcast #59: Back to Basics – Effective Training for Climbing Podcast #70 – A System for Achieving Greatly in Climbing…and Beyond! Podcasts #73 & #74 – 40 Ways to Improve Your Training and Climbing! 29:48 - Bonus Mistake to Avoid Making: Engaging in holiday "party tricks!" 31:00 - Closing comments and Eric's Best Wishes for the Holiday and New Year! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 14 Feb 2022 | Episode #72: Training Case Studies - Part 2 | 01:02:56 | |
In this PART 2, hear Eric's training advice for two elite/pro-level climbers. For each of the climbers, Eric provides a Climber Overview, Impressions, Training Recommendations to achieve the next level, and a Personalized Program Summary. In PART 1 (podcast #71) and this episode combined, Eric coaches four climbers that cover the full spectrum of ability from first-year beginner to full-time professional climber. Chances are, you'll be able to relate to one of these climbers and benefit from Eric's recommendations. Or perhaps, you're at a place in the climbing journey that's midway between two of these climbers...and you'll be able to glean actionable tips from a couple of these consults. RUNDOWN 0:35 - Eric's Welcome! Climber #3 - Twenty-something "Elite Climber" 12:28 - Climber Overview 14:28 - Eric's Impressions 18:18 - Training Recommendations. 30:50 - Program Summary Climber #4 - "Professional Climber" with 20+ years experience 24:20 - Climber Overview 26:02- Eric's Impressions 30:00 - Training Recommendations 30:44 - Strength/Power Training Advice 42:08 - Power-Endurance Training Advice Listen to Eric's Energy System Podcasts #21 - #28 Listen to the first in the 5-part series here >> 58:50 - Program Summary PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 PhysiVantage is now available in Europe from the EPIC-TV Shop! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 01 Apr 2017 | Episode #11: Training for Climbing: The Past, The Present, The Future. | 00:39:05 | |
Podcast #11 Training: The Past, The Present, The Future This episode is more of a free-form podcast rather than single-topic focused, as in the previous podcasts. I hope you enjoy it! 00:15 - Introduction to Podcast #11 00:46 – The breakthrough climbing achievement of the year….Margo Hayes ascent of La Rambla, the first consensus 5.15a redpoint by a female. 3:05 – Similarities between Margo Hayes and Alex Megos – Smart training with a long-term perspective. 6:55 – Feature topic: Training for climbing….the past, the present, and the future. 9:25 – Comments on Eric’s 40th anniversary in climbing…and 30 years as a coach, researcher, and author. Insight into Eric’s sources of inspiration…and quest for innovation in training for climbing. 11:10 - Training for climbing….The Past: John Gill – The Father of Training for Climbing. Did you know he climbed V9/5.13+ moves in the 1960s! 16:10 – Training for climbing….The Present: The training information glut of 2017. But can you distinguish the good from the bad (advice)? 19:45 – Training for climbing….The Future: I predict a revolution! New testing and training technologies, more effective training protocols and programming, and the path to 5.16a! 27:25 – Question & Answer: “Ask Eric” 27:38 – Question 1: How do I determine my optimal body weight…in the quest of gaining a higher relative peak finger force (strength-to-weight ratio) 28:00 – Question 2: What do you think of one-arm hangboard training…with the free hand gripping a helper sling? 37:10 – How to submit a training question to Eric 38:20 – Closing comments Music: Misty Murphy Photo: Bruce Wilson Download all the monthly training podcasts for free by subscribing to the "Eric Horst's Training for Climbing" podcast on iTunes. Please leave a review on iTunes! | |||
| 04 Sep 2019 | Episode #39: Climbing Injuries: A Perfect Storm Brewing | 01:21:07 | |
This is fourth in a series on sinew training with a specific focus on climbing injuries and prevention. Incidence of climbing injuries is growing, and overuse injuries to the fingers, elbows, and shoulders are common among beginners and expert alike. Eric lays out the perfect storm of factors that make upper extremity overuse injuries so common. You will learn countermeasures to reduce your injury risk and increase tendon health and finger flexor pulley strength. If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally experience tendon or joint pain, then this podcast will be game-changer for you! RUNDOWN 0:24 – Intro to this episode and a quick recap of the previous episodes in this series. Be sure to listen to the first three podcasts in this series:
1:45 - Overuse injuries are incredibly common...almost every avid climber will experience tweaks (or worse) in their fingers, elbows, and/or shoulders. So the information covered in these podcasts is game-changing if you want to reduce injury risk and climb better. 3:20 - Eric introduces the three parts of this podcast...the 3 factors that combine to form a perfect storm for climbing injuries. 7:10 - Latest information from the Climbing Medicine Symposium in Squamish Canada in August. 10:24 - The latest data on types of climbing injuries and the injury trends over the last 20 years. 15:36 - A "Perfect Storm" brewing for climbing injuries. Understanding the storm will empower you to reduce injury risk and return from injury more quickly. There are 3 factors combining to build this storm. 17:00 - Perfect Storm Factor #1 - Climbing involves repetitive high-force loading on small body parts...including tiny tendons and ligaments in the fingers. 21:25 -Perfect Storm Factor #2 - Climbing is an addictive activities...and so we tend to climb a lot and rest too little. Furthermore, how your muscles feel (recover) isn't a good gauge of tendon recovery--we often climb again when our muscles feel recovered, yet the connective tissues take longer to recover from hard training/climbing. A vicious cycle of collagen breakdown in connective tissues begins... 33:10 - Perfect Storm Factor #3 - Poor nutritional habits and/or undernourishment. Deficiency in collagen-specific amino acids (Glycine & proline) are at the heart of the matter--if you're deficient in these two amino acids, then you're not synthesizng collagen optimally...and you may be in a chronic state of net collagen degradation...and on the fast track to injury. 41:45 - Not all proteins are created equal..in fact, the amino acid profile of foods varies widely...and most non-animal products are low in glycine and proline. 44:00 - The importance of consuming enough glycine and proline during periods of physical and mental stress, injury, and illness. Consuming 7 - 10 grams of glycine per day is a wise goal for serious athletes. 46:30 - What foods and supplements are highest in glycine? 50:50 - Vegan sources of glycine. 52:00 - The most glycine-rich food on the planet? Gelatin...and the more refined version (more easily mixed and digested) is Hydrolyzed Collagen. 54:40 - The research that changed my life....and how it reveals that we can possibly double collagen synthesis in our tendons, pulleys, ligaments. This is revolutionary information for serious climbers! 58:00 - Learn about the specific coupled training-nutritional intervention shown to target glycine and profile from hydrolyzed collagen to a specific body part...your fingers...injured pulleys...elbows...shoulders...knees...whatever. This really works! 1:00:00 - Why it's ideal to consume hydrolyzed collagen on an empty stomach before finger training, climbing, or rehab. Also learn about Eric's 6-minute finger workout you can do every day. 1:02:00 - Tips for those wanting to rehab an injury as fast as possible. 1:03:00 - Learn about Supercharged Collagen and why this is the most advanced collagen protein on the market....and the only product designed from specifically for power athletes. 1:06:00 - 6 things you can do to AVOID the perfect storm! 1:18:40 - Final thoughts on the power of this information...and how it can change your climbing for the better for many years to come. 1:19:00 - Help spread the word...please SHARE with a friend and please WRITE a review. ABOUT PHYSIVANTAGE:
Instagram - @PhysiVantage Facebook - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy
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| 21 Apr 2019 | Episode #34: A Revolution in Finger Training for Climbers | 01:00:52 | |
This may be the most important podcast you've heard in a long time...or, perhaps, ever! If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally experience tendon or joint pain...then this podcast could be a game-changer for you. Traditionally, tendons and ligaments (such as the A2 pulleys of the fingers) have been viewed as inert structures that changed little after adolescence. We now know, however, that these connective tissues are dynamic and metabolically active. New studies provide clues as to how athletes can play an active role in developing stronger, more robust, and higher performance connective tissues. This is a revolutionary distinction for hard-training climbers...and it may change the way you train, eat, and recover going forward. This podcast is the second in a series on sinew training for improved health and enhanced performance. Revisit podcast #33 for an introduction to the topic. Podcasts #34 and #35 will break much new ground on the topic of training for climbing--don't miss them! RUNDOWN 0:15 – Introduction to this series of 4 podcasts on connective tissue training—this is revolutionary information. 2:07 – Question: What sport is as hard on tendons and ligaments as climbing? Is there one? Perhaps not. Consider that finger flexor tendon pulleys are just 1 to 2 mm thick, yet they have to carry a large percentage of a climber’s body weight. 4:00 – Collagen-based tissues carry the load, from muscle to fingertips, with every hold you grab…every move you make…every lunge you make! 6:30 – The best climber in the world isn’t the best if he’s injured. Injuries, big and small, are setbacks that change your trajectory. 7:35 – New paradigm: Your top priority in training for climbing: Develop stronger tendons, pulleys, and muscle matrix. 8:45 – Sinew have poor blood flow, and therefore may be poorly nourished. 9:30 – Key distinction: collagen breaks down with every intense work. Collagen synthesis takes 72 hours (or more) to remodel the connective tissue. 11:00 – Too much collagen breakdown and too little recovery time between workouts may lead to injury. 11:50 – Sinew gets much of their nutrition from fluid diffusion during mechanical loading (climbing and training). Therefore, consuming Supercharged Collagen 30 to 60 minutes training is the optimal nutritional protocol for supporting collagen synthesis in finger tendons and ligament pulleys. 15:30 – Anything you can do to promote collagen synthesis and connective tissue remodeling is a game-changer for a hard training climber. It’s with this goal in mind that I founded PhysiVantage. 16:30 – Learn about my new brand PhysiVāntage and our flagship product, Supercharged Collagen. This is a totally novel and premium produce. 19:40 – The genesis of PhysiVāntage—almost three years in the making. Here’s the back story. 22:00 – How decreasing collagen turnover after age 30 slows recovery and may increase the risk of injury. 25:50 – Most important amino acids for collagen synthesis are glycine, proline, hydroxyproline—these are hard to come by if you don’t consume a lot of meat. 27:30 – I created Supercharged Collagen to provide climbers with the perfect glycine and proline-rich pre-workout supplements for feeding their sinew the nutrients for optimal collagen synthesis. It’s research-based and athlete-tested. 32:00 – A quick research review. Here are six of the more than a dozen studies that I drew on in developing Supercharged Collagen. 41:20 – 6 questions and answers… 41:45 – Question #1: Will Supercharged Collagen fix my injury? (No, but it may enhance your rehabilitation program and, possibly, accelerate your return to climbing.) 43:20 – Question #2: How much Supercharged collagen should I consume each day? (One to three servings per day, depending on your situation.) 45:15 – Learn the benefits of doing a brief (15 minutes) “protective workout” each morning. This may be the biggest secret to building stronger tendons and ligaments in the long term! 47:40 – Question #3: What usage do I recommend for injured climbers? (First, see a doctor for a correct diagnosis. Second, research indicates that a 15 to 20 gram serving, 30 to 60 minutes before exercise, is ideal for supporting injury rehab.) 49:20 – Question #4: Can I consume Supercharged Collagen post-workout as a protein source for muscles. (Yes! But consuming a high-quality Whey protein is just as good for muscle recovery.) 50:35 – Question #5: Is there a vegan version of Supercharged Collagen? (No, there’s no such thing as vegan hydrolyzed collagen.) 52:08 – Question #6: How long does it take to feel the beneficial effects of Supercharged Collagen? (It’s unlikely you’ll feel much difference in your sinew short-term, however, multiple studies have shown a statistically significant reduction in joint pain from several months of collagen peptide use.) 55:00 – I formed PhysiVantage to my difference-making supplements for passionate climbers who place great demands on their bodies! Visit PhysiVantage.com and save 15% off non-sale items with the code “podcast15” at checkout. 56:40 – Info on three great events I’ll be appearing at this summer. Then 26th annual International Climbers Festival in Lander, WY (July 10 – 14, 2019). The Canada Strong Climbing coaches conference (August 6 – 9, 2019). Climbing Medicine Canada (August 12 – 14, 2019) in Squamish, BC. 59:25 – If you enjoyed this podcast—please SHARE it with your friends and on your social media, and consider writing a review on iTunes. Get 15% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code PODCAST15 at checkout. Instagram - @PhysiVantage Facebook - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy
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| 07 Feb 2022 | Episode #71: Training Case Studies - Part 1 | 00:52:53 | |
Gain clues to improving the effectiveness of your training-for-climbing system from this fascinating two-part podcast! Listen to Eric's personalized training advice as given to four climbers of widely varying ability. For each of the climbers, Eric provides a Climber Overview, his Impressions, Training Recommendations to achieve the next level, and a Personalized Program Summary. The four climbers Eric coaches here cover the full spectrum of ability from first-year beginner to full-time professional climber. Chances are, that you'll be able to relate to one of these climbers and benefit from Eric's recommendations. Or perhaps, your place in the climbing journey is midway between two of these climbers...and you'll be able to glean actionable tips from a couple of these consults. RUNDOWN 0:35 - Eric's Welcome! 2:00 - Introduction to Training Case Studies, and the value of a personalized training program. 5:20 - Horst Training backstory. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 Announcing PhysiVantage now available in Europe via the EPIC-TV Shop! 9:25 - Overview of the 4 climbing training case studies coming in this episode (and next week's episode). Climber #1 - "Enthusiastic Beginner" with 1 year of climbing experience. 12:28 - Climber Overview 14:28 - Eric's Impressions 18:18 - Training Recommendations. 30:50 - Program Summary Climber #2 - "Strong, Experience Intermediate" with 5 years of experience. 31:35 - Climber Overview 34:20 - Eric's Impressions 38:05 - Training Recommendations. 49:50 - Program Summary PART 2 will be released Monday February 14th! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 02 Oct 2018 | Episode #29: Ask Coach Hörst - Round 4 | 01:03:34 | |
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners, including in-depth coverage of effective hangboard training, the importance of developing a climbing "talent stack", details on Threshold training for climbing-specific aerobic development, training while recovering from a lower-leg injury, training for middle-aged climbers, and more! Podcast Rundown 1:35 - Question #1 - A two-part question on effective hangboard training...with a long, detailed answer offering rich guidance on developing strength and endurance using a hangboard. Part 1: Is it better to train on small edges with body weight or larger holds with added weight? Part 2: How does the length of rest between hangboard reps and sets effect the training adaptation? 19:15 - Question #2 - How can I find the proper training intensity when doing Threshold Intervals…to best develop my climbing-specific aerobic energy system? Consider listening to podcast #26 for a complete study of aerobic system training for climbing. 26:20 - Question #3 - I'm out of climbing for several months due to lower leg surgery...so, Eric, what kind of training do you suggest for me during this forced withdrawal from climbing? 32:37 - Question #4 - Why don't you recommend any low-rep hypertrophy training for antagonist and core muscles? 38:01 - Question #5 - I get so incredibly pump—and quickly!—on steep routes. How can I assess my energy systems and determine which energy system (Aerobic or Anaerobic) I need to train? Can you give me some training advice? For a super detailed study of anaerobic lactic training, listen to podcasts #23 and #24. 44:32 - Question #6 - Climbing is now my passion, however I previously was a serious rugby player. How might I train to reduce the size (weight) of my rather large leg muscle? Eric also explains the importance of developing a climbing “talent stack”. 51:55 - Question #7 - I'm 47 years old (been climbing 28 years) and very experienced at hard multi-pitch routes...but I have also climbed 5.13a sport and V7 boulders. My goal is to climb some multi-pitch 5.12 routes, and I'd like to improve my physical fitness. What training do you recommend for someone my age? NOTE: If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing -- include your first name, location, climbing ability level, and years climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 21 Jun 2018 | Episode #26: Energy System Training (part 4) - Aerobic Power! | 01:29:31 | |
This is the fourth in a series on using bioenergetic energy systems as a guiding model to train more effectively. This epic 90-minute episode breaks down the nuance of properly training both the climbing-specific and generalized aerobic energy system—a critical and often-overlooked metabolic pathway that contributes significantly to power production in climbing and, importantly, drives most of the recovery process between moves, crux sequences, climbing, and even boulder problems. There's lots of gold to mine from this podcast, especially for already highly training intermediate to elite climbers. Podcast Rundown 00:15 – Eric’s Intro to training the aerobic energy system…and its high importance to rock climbers. How the energy system conceptual model can empower you to train smarter and get more out of your training investment. 4:45 – If you think these podcasts are gold, then why not share it with your friends….and please leave a review on iTunes! 5:15 – All about the aerobic energy system and how it differs from the other two energy systems. Of course, all three energy systems contribute to ATP production, but there are certain climbing situations that call heavily on the aerobic energy system. 9:15 – A quick review of the three energy systems, when each dominates, and how the aerobic system comes into play for climbers. Learn why and when the anaerobic energy systems power down and eventually fail you…and how the aerobic energy system can only provide a sustained “critical power” of only about one-third of your peak power. 15:35 – How the aerobic energy system supports the ATP-CP energy system. Important stuff, especially for rope climbers…but really for all climbers. 18:20 – How the aerobic system supports the anaerobic lactic energy system. Yes, a stronger aerobic system can help you control the “pump”; but it’s also important that you strive to improve climbing economy and reduce the ATP cost of a given move or sequence—this is a hugely powerful distinction! 21:55 – A quick reminder on the importance of increasing maximum strength and power, season over season, because this sets the ceiling for your peak power output and anaerobic capacity. 23:50 – A detail discussion of the bioenergetics of finger flexor muscles and how finger grip intensity determines the energy system most used. Occlusion of blood flow is the critical factor, and maintaining blood flow as much as possible is one of the secrets of elite climbers. 28:45 – The physical prowess of Adam Ondra is both his large anaerobic reserve (capacity) AND high aerobic power! 30:35 – What climbing researchers have measured in the lab with regarding to the bioenergetics of climbing. (A truly climbing-specific VO2 test has yet to be developed and validated for testing at the gym.) The importance of not conflating generalized aerobic fitness (and VO2) with climbing-specific aerobic development (and VO2). 32:34 – Moving from theory to practice…here we begin to look into targeted training of the finger flexors and pulling muscles (the rock climbing agonists). 34:09 - What adaptations take places in the climbing muscles that improve aerobic power? Adaptation #1 in an increase in capillary density which results in a decrease in diffusion distance—importantly, this contributes to increasing O2 kinetics. Simon Fryer’s research showed that elite climbers have higher O2 kinetics than lesser climbers. 37:50 – Adaptation #2 is an increase in aerobic enzymes…which can upregulate in just a matter of days to a week or two of aerobic-centric training/climbing. 40:15 – Adaptation #3 is mitochondria adaptations—critical for long-term development year over year…and for maintaining climbing-specific VO2 into middle age and beyond. 43:30 – Important point: Intracellular acidosis negatively impacts mitochondria function. This explains why a vicious flash pump (due to a poor warm up) can hurt same-day climbing performance…and why chronic acidosis (too much time spent anaerobic lactic training/climbing per week) can decrease aerobic power and contribute toward onset of overtraining syndrome. 45:15 – The difference between “aerobic power” and “aerobic capacity”. Which matters more for you? 47:10 – Exercises for developing aerobic power and capacity for climbers... 48:32 – ARC climbing. This involves easy, long, very submaximal (3 or 4 number grades below your limit) climbing for 30 to 60 minutes. It must be fairly low in intensity with no complete occlusion of forearm blood flow—you mustn’t succumb to the “pump lust”. Learn the pros and cons of ARC training. 53:10 – Threshold Intervals—perhaps the best approach to aerobic development for the mass of climbers. Unfortunately, getting the intensity right can be difficult—it can’t be too hard (too anaerobic) or too easy (too far below the aerobic threshold). For most people the target intensity is an 8 out of 10 as the end-of-set physical intensity and perceived exertion. A light pump and small increase in breathing rate is fine, but not a deep pump or heavy breathing (which signals anaerobic metabolism dominates). 59:36 – Alactic-aerobic intervals. For elite climbers, this is a go-to strategy for increasing aerobic power for high-level bouldering and sport climbing. This is NOT a training method for beginner or intermediate climbers, however, because it requires a high base level of strength and power. This is a tricky exercise protocol to get right—nuance, self-awareness, and discipline are essential to do it right and get the desired training adaptations. Listen closely for the critical details! 1:09:48 – How to train the climbing-specific aerobic system if you don’t have access to a climbing wall. Here, I describe two exercises using a hangboard or campus board: “moving hangs” and “low-intensity repeaters”. As with the previous exercises, getting the training nuance right is essential to gain aerobic system adaptations—specifically, your finger grip force must be only 20% - 30% of maximum so as to not completely occlude blood flow and go deeply anaerobic. 1:13:20 – A quick look at generalized aerobic training…running, bicycling, rowing, swimming, trail running, etc. 1:15:00 – What climbing researchers have determined with regarding to the VO2 max of climbers…and the need and benefits of generalized aerobic fitness and training. 1:18:00 - Does generalized aerobic training really help performance? Might it hurt climbing performance? Is it a priority or a secondary need? How often should you do it? Learn all these details and more here! 1:23:20 – What days and time of days should you do your aerobic training? Tips and tricks for getting the most out of your aerobic system training…and how to integrate it with your other training for best results. 1:26:16 – Wrap up, closing comments, and final tips on energy system training. This stuff IS the future of training for climbing! 1:27:10 – Comments about the International Rock Climbing Researchers Association (IRCRA) meeting in Chamonix, France where I’ll speaking in July…and Eric’s closing comments. PLEASE SHARE THIS PODCAST with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. Thank you!
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy Photo: Andy Raether on the first ascent of Manphibian (5.14d), Mt. Charleston, NV. Courtesy of Lacey Jones. | |||
| 11 Apr 2024 | #98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing | 00:35:01 | |
In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier. You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route climbing, particularly concerning the energy systems that power climbing movements. Eric with detail his climbing-specific aerobic system route training session at the G1 gym. Eric will then describe Drew's unique limit boulder training methodology that's elevated him to being one of the very best boulderers on the planet. Learn how Drew puts his home woodie to work for maximum gains! Whether your climbing focus is boulders or routes, this pithy reductionist analysis of training for climbing will engage and enlighten passionate climbers of all ability levels. *** Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). *** In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 02 Nov 2020 | Episode #54: Turning "Impossible" into "I'm Possible" | 00:58:33 | |
Are you ready to rethink what's possible in your climbing life? There's a good chance that your perceived limit is actually a self-imposed imaginary boundary! Once again this month, I present an episode of Training Cafe, my twice-monthly video Livestream coaching show on YouTube and Facebook live. The main topic delves into pursuing next-level projects...and the importance of challenging your inner fears of failure and criticism, just like pro climbers do. Now is the time to think bigger...develop a system...and execute your plan with uncommon discipline! Podcast Rundown 2:57 - Beginning of TRAINING CAFE. Main topic is "Turning Impossible into I'm Possible!" 3:12 – But first, we sip coffee together! 3:30 – SHOUT OUT to Chuck Odette, age 64, for sending 5.14b last week! #Legend 4:20 – What it takes to climb hard late into life. 5:20 – MAIN TOPIC: Turning Impossible into I’m Possible 6:10 – Setting goals is easy. Developing an effective SYSTEM for progress towards the goal is harder….and maintaining long-term discipline is even harder yet! 6:55 – Examples of IMPOSSIBLE becoming POSSIBLE…big or small, they can be life-changing. 8:45 – Einstein’s quote must be followed by action! 9:50 – Climbing examples of “I’m Possible”! 11:00 – Ignore the skeptics…don’t take on their #Loserthink! 13:20– High achievers don’t spend a lot of time on social media, gossip, or other time-wasting activities. 14:20 – Need to be somewhat of a compulsive planner. 15:00 – Have a vivid picture in mind every day–build a belief in the goal, and action for bias…and a “get shit done” attitude. 18:50 – Breaking into a new grade in climbing…demands a new level of thinking and novel, disciplined action. Learn from greats like Gullich, Ondra, Hill, Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes. 20:20 – Great achievements don’t happen by accident! 22:30 – Final tip for your Fall climbing season…. 23:30 - YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! 23:40 – Question: Training suggestions for trip to Red River Gorge in December. 26:26 – Question: Can I combine Repeater hangboard training with another exercise like Pull-up training? 29:06 – Question: What is “Aerobic Power”? How to train it? 33:14 - Question: Thoughts on bouldering with weight on as training? 36:09 – Question: How to break a hangboarding finger strength plateau? 38:33 – Question: Can I do shoulder and core training every day? 40:50 – Question: Will taking Beta-Alanine benefit my training and climbing? 43:20 – Question: Can I use the 7/53 maximum strength protocol to train a variety of grip positions? 47:00 – Question: What training advice for a 13-year-old girl wanting to improve to 5.11? 48:09 – Question: How to incorporate technique-training into weekly strength-training schedule? 53:03 – Question: How to deal with naysayers, critics, and trolls? 56:30 – Episode wrap-up. Shout out to the many companies that support what I do: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||
| 17 Jul 2021 | Episode #63 - Nugget Q & A with Coach Hörst About All Things Training - Part 1 | 01:17:14 | |
This information-packed episode features Steven Dimmitt of the Nugget podcast interviewing Coach Hörst on all things training. This wide-ranging Q & A covers many vital topics including: how to train for stronger tendons and ligaments, the secrets to developing a really strong core, the benefits of campus training versus hangboard training, personalized training program design, and much more! There's a gold mine of information in this episode....and Part 2 of this interview will serve up even more! Coming soon... Podcast Rundown 00:12 - Intro to this "best of" the Nugget interview with coach Eric Hörst 2:56 - What core elements of training have passed the test of time? 6:23 - Current glut of training information can be overwhelming--what to do? 8:37 - Importance of re-inventing your training each year. 10:07 - Value of engaging an expert coach. 12:25 - What's the most central exercise/activity for climbers? 14:30 - You can improve technical, movement and mental skills for decades! 17:00 - You can improve at climbing for DECADES! 18:25 - You are likely already strong enough to climb the next grade! 19:56 - What should you look for in hiring a coach? 25:50 - New training concept: Sinew Training! Learn the importance of remodeling connective tissues. Visit T4C podcasts #33, #34, #36, and #39 for an in-depth study of this powerful topic. 30:00 - Learn how max finger hangs and campusing training have profoundly different effects on tendons and ligaments. 34:00 - Learn the difference between sinew training for tendon/ligament health versus training for peak power and performance. 35:10 - How to schedule these two types of training for optimal health and results. 36:30 - Learn training cycles and periodization. Linear versus non-linear. 44:40 - Importance of developing a truly personalized approach to training (the "snowflake principle"). 46:00 - Identify your limiting constraint. For some strong climbers it's "end-range" strength. 50:15 - How designing an advance training program is like playing 3D chess. Why the best coaches see the big picture and coach the "person" not just the athlete. 51:00 - Don't fall into the trap of obsessing on one type of training or one modality. 54:25 - Why developing a stronger core is SO VERY important. (Hint: A stronger core equals stronger fingers!) 56:30 - Eric comments about Alex Megos' coaches Patrick & Dicki 59:00 - Learn about deadlifting for climbers...the value...and the potential pitfalls. 1:06:30 - The value of doing more bouldering and traversing with very small footholds. 1:11:10 - Key idea: A weak core overcharges your finger force...resulting in rapid fatigue on near-limit climbs. 1:14:10 - More on DUP training versus a 10-week (or more) training cycle. 1:16:30 - Wrap up comments...and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Tune in to T4C podcast #64 for PART 2 of this Nugget Interview with coach Hörst! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 PhyiVantage is used by dozens of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||
| 12 Apr 2018 | Episode #22: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 1) | 00:55:51 | |
As a change-up to my typical long-format, single-topic drill down podcast, I present to you the first episode of "Ask Coach Hörst"! Listen in as I answer 10 listener questions covering a wide range of topics from in-season fingerboard training, training for big wall stamina, training to excel at climbing AND another sport, and much more. Each question & answer runs about 5 minutes. If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment the pinned post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing -- include your first name, location, and years climbing. 1:06 - Question #1. A student climber (5.13b) with access to a small university gym (45 degree wall & campus board only) wants to know about doing weighted hangboard training on a portable hangboard...and the pros/cons of training two consecutive days? 6:29 - Question #2. SoCal climber asks how to do hangboard training for "gains" when there's year-round outdoor climbing...that is, no poor-weather off-season to do targeted training. 13:07 - Question #3. A climber with no access to a commercial climbing gym inquires how to train route endurance while only having a hangboard and campus board for home training? 19:20 - Question #4. How to best ramp up training for big wall stamina this summer season? 22:20 - Question #5. How to integrate a progressive overload hangboard training program with outdoor climbing for performance? 24:24 - Question #6. How much aerobic cross-training is too much...that is, what volume of aerobic training would it take to begin hindering climbing performance? 31:15 - Question #7. What to do during rest breaks between fingerboard or pull-up sets? Also, what about during rest periods between redpoint attempts? 37:47 - Question #8. How long does the "just go climbing approach" to improving climbing performance apply? At what point should a climber delve more deeply into intensive strength and power training? 42:00 - Question #9. How to best train for both rock climbing and mountain climbing? 45:42 - Question #10: Advice on how to advance from 6c to 7a and, hopefully, 7a+ (5.12a) while also playing (and training for) rugby? How to best train for both sports at a body weight of 80kg? 52:10 - Wrap up...How YOU can submit a question for the next episode of "Ask Coach Horst". Visit my Twitter @Train4Climbing and leave a comment to the pinned "Ask Coach Horst" podcast. 53:00 - Teaser on the next episode of the T4C podcast on...Energy System Training Part #2. Don't miss this episode on how to train more effectively! Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. | |||
| 21 Dec 2020 | Episode #56: Ask Coach Hörst About Training! | 00:58:51 | |
What could be better than a one-hour Q & A with coach Hörst about all things training? 15 questions on a wide range of topics...and hopefully more than a few that will hit home with you. Enjoy! Podcast Rundown 4:15 – Question: What advice do you have for returning to crimping after an A2 pulley injury? 7:35 – Question: What are your recommendations for incorporating some strength training in a my routine? 11:40 – Question: What do you think of post-workout cold-water immersion for reducing pain and accelerating recovery? 16:00 - Question: What can I do to prevent getting sowing-machine leg? 19:22 - Question: What are your thoughts on deadlifting for climbing? 25:25 - Question: What can I do to reduce chronic pain and stiffness in my neck muscles? 28:15 - Question: What vitamin supplements do you take? 34:30 - Question: What's the ideal length of break between doing two climbing workouts in a day? 36:20 - Question: My project involves a lot of stemming--what can I do to train specifically for better stemming? 38:20 - Question: What finger grip positions do you recommend for training? 42:06 - Question: What the best strategy for pushing into the next level when projecting? 46:48 - Question: What do you think of campus training for youth climbers? 49:09 - Question: Since I didn't start climbing until age 35, how long can I improve in strength and climbing ability? 51:15 - Question: Do you agree with the idea that most climbers are already strong enough to climb the next grade? 53:25 - Question: Is there a vegan version of collagen supplement? 55:15 - Question: When's the right time for a new climber to begin some hangboard training? PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||
| 01 Jul 2019 | Episode #37: The 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers | 00:53:39 | |
What makes great climbers great? What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, and Alex Megos (I call this group "CHHOM")--and others like them--the barrier-breaking and transcendent climbers that they are? You might be thinking of things like "strong fingers", "low bodyfat, and "excellent sponsorship". Surely these are part of the equation, however, I believe the true Superpowers of these climbers are things you can't measure with a fitness test or financial summary. In this podcast I present the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers--traits you can develop (gradually) to achieve great success on the rock and in your everyday life. I hope you find this presentation enjoyable and empowering! Rundown 0:58 - Introduction 2:50 - What does it take to turn an elite climber into one of the very best climbers on the planet? 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers 5:28 - #1: Becoming comfortable with physical and mental discomfort. 11:53 - #2: Uncommon self-awareness and the willingness to embrace failures and personal weaknesses. 16:00 - #3: Effective goal setting and a habitual bias for action. 21:37 - #4: The power to sacrifice greatly. 27:00 - #5: Maintaining a beginner's mindset despite being a higherly praised elite climber. 34:56 - #6: The power to handle failure and overcome adversity. 38:30 - #7: The power to handle their "addiction". 45:44 - #8: The power NOT to care what other people think. 50:00 - Summary of the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers. 51:15 - Do you have a #9 or #10 superpower to suggest? Leave your comment on Eric's T4C Twitter @Train4Climbing 52:15 - A brief word about Eric's new brand PhysiVāntage -- the first research-based, athlete-tested nutritional supplements for climbers! Get 15% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code PODCAST15 at checkout. Instagram - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy
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| 25 Oct 2022 | #81: Boulder & Crag Day Nutrition for Peak Performance (FLASH Edition #2) | 00:17:59 | |
You have been waiting all week to get out to get outside and climb! You've been training hard and your stoke is high to top some great boulders and/or take the sharp end up a few killer routes. Now that it's "game day", what can you do nutritionally to support—and perhaps enhance—your performance? This content-dense FLASH edition of the T4C podcast will serve up actionable steps you can take, including how much water your should drink, the types and amounts of foods to consume, and possible ergogenic supplements that might give you an extra edge when climbing at your limit. RUNDOWN 0:25 - Intro to "FLASH edition" #2 of the Training For Climbing podcast 1:30 - TOPIC: Performance nutrition for a crag day or bouldering session. 2:50 - Part #1 - How much water should you drink? This depends on many things, including the temperature and humidity, the length and rigor of your session, and your hydration status at the start of your climbing day. Listen in for details. 6:16 - Part #2 - What foods...and how much should you consume? This will depend heavily on the length and intensity of your bouldering session or climbing day. Learn Eric's snack suggestions for sustaining energy throughout the day. 10:30 - Part #3 - What supplements, if any, might acutely enhance game-day performance? The list is short...but Eric reveals a few items that are proven to enhance strength and endurance among hard-working athletes. 16:36 - Wrap up and sponsor message. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com Did you enjoy this new FLASH edition format? If so, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music: FYYC! Remix of "It's Already for You" (The Police - aka. the best band ever) Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 02 Jan 2022 | Episode #70 - A System for Achieving Greatly in Climbing...and Beyond! | 00:54:54 | |
In this empowering New Year's podcast, Eric details effective strategies for uncommon success in climbing and any other high-value life activity or mission. Learn 3 essential steps for departing onto a road less traveled--a journey defined by intentional daily action that yields rapid progress, while avoiding common "black holes" that can consume time, energy, and focus...and rob you of your future greatness. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 RUNDOWN 0:30 - Introduction -- Happy New Year! Let's make 2022 a great one! 1:00 - Why most people fail with their New Year's Resolutions and goals. 2:40 - My unpublished book manuscript "Mental Wings" -- about how all performance is brain-based...and begins with the quality of your thoughts. 3:50 - My most powerful published book is "Maximum Climbing". Available from Amazon.com and PhysiVantage.com 5:00 - I'm passionate about inspiring you...and helping you become the best climber you can be...and to see you live your dream life! 6:30 - What are the biggest factors...and limiting constraints on your progress in climbing (and other life endeavors)? 7:50 - Your THOUGHTS are EVERYTHING! Who and what controls your thoughts minute by minute? 10:45 - Exercise: List 5 or 10 things you would attempt to do if you were assured you could not fail? 11:25 - Exercise: Create a list of things you fear...bad habits...and other things that are holding you back...tethering you to living in a state of status quo. 12:30 - STEP #1: Change is a MUST! All improvement in climbing (or life) begins with a decision that change and improvement is a MUST! 13:20 - Creating leverage for making the (painful) changes that are essential for leveling your situation. 16:00 - The "Feedforward" Exercise...for identifying a meaningful step to take TODAY to advance you toward your goals. 18:30 - Mental Wings principle: "To outperform the masses you must do things they don't do." 24:10 - The power of becoming a "practical non-conformist". 29:30 - Step #2: Set compelling goals. 31:00 - 6 steps for effective goal setting...and achievement! 34:30 - Introducing PhysiVantage Europe! We are proud to partner with the EPIC-TV shop to bring performance nutrition to European climbers. 36:15 - Step #3: Make Every Day Count 38:00 - Enjoy this moment--every moment!--because this moment is a piece of your life that you'll never get back. 39:20 - Do you ever feel like there's not enough time in the day? 42:35 - What are your time black holes? 45:00 - Exercise: Track your time use (from waking up) for at least 3 days. Be accurate in documenting your "time-wasting" activities? 48:00 - The importance of developing a personal time-management system. You must not just let your day unfold without intention...and a schedule for taking some meaningful action towards your goals. 52:10 - Concluding thoughts...and wishes for your grand success in the New Year! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 01 Mar 2017 | Episode #10: Fingerboard Training to Increasing Maximum Grip Strength | 00:55:01 | |
In terms of physical attributes, increasing relative peak finger force is central to taking your climbing to the next level—think of this as the finger force you can apply to a rock hold in relation to the body mass the fingers must support. Improving this finger strength-to-weight ratio is possible by increasing the numerator (greater finger strength) and decreasing the denominator (lowering body mass). While there are many different fingerboard training methods/protocols/programs (some good, some bad) in the public domain, this podcasts will present four evidence-based protocols that work. Experienced climbers, with no recent history of injury to the fingers/elbows/shoulders, can employ one of these maximum-grip-strength protocols on a twice-a-week basis as supplement to time spent climbing. Aggregate number of climbing and finger training days per week must not exceed four—resting the fingers a minimum of three days per week is essential for neuromuscular recovery and finger tendon remodeling. Break this rule and you’ll likely end up “broken”….in one way or another. Podcast Rundown: 1:14 - Review of 5 reasons why stronger fingers are central to taking your climbing to the next level 4:24 - Intro to maximum finger strength training on a hangboard 4:50 - Importance of "Relative Peak Finger Force" 10:10 - 3 Hangboard training modalities 13:33 - Training protocol 1: "Minimum Edge" 19:14 - Training protocol 2: "Maximum Weight 10-second Hangs" 25:20 - Training protocol 3: "7-53 Weight Hangs" 32:00 - Training protocol 4: "7/3 Repeaters" 41:00 - How to fingerboard with good technique...to protect & strengthen your shoulders. 45:05 - Hangboard training program design - How to integrate your with your other workouts and performance climbing. 53:00 - Closing comments Music: Misty Murphy Download all the monthly training podcasts for free by subscribing to the "Eric Horst's Training for Climbing" podcast on iTunes. Please leave a review on iTunes!
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| 08 Oct 2019 | Episode #40: Blood Flow Restriction Training for Climbers | 00:52:08 | |
In a departure from my usual lecture style podcasts, I'm happy to feature a guest on this month's podcast--Dr. Tyler Nelson, a chiropractic physician and owner of Camp 4 Human Performance in Salt Lake City. This is my first podcast interview in about a decade--I believe my last audio interview was with Alex Honnold soon after his free solo of Half Dome (2008). Maybe some day I'll dig out that podcast from the audio vault and post it here! But I digress. The focus of this podcast is Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) training. This training modality has been around for decades, but has only been recently popularized by some physiotherapists and coaches. Among climbers, perhaps no one is more knowledgable on this topic than Dr. Nelson. In this 40-minute interview we'll explore the different BFR training protocols, and how BFR training may be a beneficial intervention for injured and healthy climbers alike. SUMMARY
BFR RESEARCH PAPERS:
ABOUT PHYSIVANTAGE:
Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Follow Eric and TFC on Facebook! Instagram - @PhysiVantage Facebook - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Music by: Misty Murphy
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| 14 Jun 2022 | Episode #76 - The Optimal Mindset for Projecting & Sending! | 01:12:36 | |
Your training is done. You've arrived at the boulders or crags. You're ready to begin work on a project...or perhaps you hope to send your ongoing project. It's at these times that your mindset matters most! In this episode, Coach Hörst provides insights into how you can foster an optimal mental state to begin work on a new project...or send an ongoing project boulder, sport climbing, or big wall. The optimal mindset is highly distinct and dependent on your goal du jour. You'll learn how to quiet your mind with meditation and support your projecting and sending with self-talk. This is powerful information...so lean into this podcast and find some clues for taking your performance to the next level! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Intro to mental training and mindset optimization for climbing. 2:20 - Brief recall of Podcast #75 on Self-Awareness -- an essential first step to taking control of your mindset. 5:06 - Controlling your thoughts -- harder than you think. 6:14 - Who controls your thinking? 8:46 - Developing a powerful mindset for climbing is a decades-long journey -- begin today! 10:00 - "To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do!" 11:00 - PART 1 - Your thoughts are powerful! 14:00 - Quiet your mind with meditation. 15:50 - Experience John Gill's "moving meditation." 17:00 - Dealing with racing thoughts. 18:18 - How to meditate. Getting good at it takes practice...ideally daily! *** Message about our Sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition, the leader in climbing-specific nutrition. Enhance endurance and recovery between efforts with ENDURE X! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** 25:50 - PART 2 - How to build an optimal mindest for projecting and performance. 28:00 - Keep the valence of your self-talk POSITIVE! 29:04 - Be quick to reframe failed attempts or setbacks. 29:45 - "No Big Deal Honnold"! Learn about beginner- and elite-level reframing. 31:13 - WARNING: You must embrace the reality of a dire situation! 32:42 - Summary of self-talk techniques - The 4 keys to effective self-talk. 34:05 - Details on effective Self-Talk for Projecting vs. Redpointing 35:28 - Self-Talk techniques for Projecting. Learning is the goal...NOT sending! 41:30 - Ask yourself lots of questions. 46:35 - Mention of The Struggle Podcast -- Listen to 10 pro climber interviews! 46:48 - Developing the Optimal Mindset for Redpointing Your Project! 49:45 - Pre-climb self-talk 52:25 - Self-talk while you climb 55:14 - Mid-route rest self-talking strategy 57:35 - Thoughts to quash with positive self-talk 59:18 - Have a sense of humor in your self-talk 1:01:50 - Summary of 9 common climbing examples of how to reframe dis-empowering thoughts with positive self-talk 1:09:50 - Final tips and comments PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or elsewhere....and SHARE this podcast with a friend! *** Support our sponsor! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** View a list of pro climbers who use PhysiVantage to support their training and climbing >> SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 07 Jun 2021 | Episode #62 - Managing Fear and Climbing Your Best - PART 1 | 01:14:55 | |
Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. Fear of falling, fear of getting hurt or dying, fear of failure, fear of embarrassment, and even the fear of the unknown affects us all from time to time. The long-term goal is NOT to eliminate fear, but rather to become an expert fear manager....which is the focus of this (and the next) podcast. Listen in and learn how to assess your fears, manage risk, and take your climbing to the next level with a higher level of mental mastery. Podcast Rundown 0:30 - Introduction to this two-part study of fear. 4:45 - A few comments on recent events... 5:00 - World Cup Bouldering Gold for Team USA! 7:00 - My son Cameron sending his first 5.15a, Bone Tomahawk. 10:10 - My appearance on The Nugget Climbing podcast. 11:50 - Overview of FEAR...and what you'll learn in this podcast and the next. 12:28 - What are some of your recent climbing fears? Can you identify a few that were especially acute...or fears that held you back in some way? 14:55 - FEAR #1: Fear of Falling 19:12 - Technique 1: Determine if the fear is reasonable or unreasonable. 25:30 - Technique 2: Take some practice falls in a safe setting 32:54 - Technique 3: Change your interpretation of the fear response. 38:28 - Technique 4: Use positive self-talk to crowd out negative thoughts...and you breath-control to moderate tension and the stress response. 45:10 - FEAR #2 - Fear of Dying or Getting Hurt 49:40 - Technique 1: Is the fear you're experiencing legit or imaginary? 52:24 - Technique 2: Use risk management to shift the odds in your favor...and perhaps continue up the climb safely. Here are FIVE strategies for doing this: 52:52 - 1.) Proactively manage the most obvious dangers. 55:55 - 2.) Consider various "what if" scenarios...and how you will react in each situation. 57:37 - 3.) Constantly discern between "safe fall" and "no fall" situations. 1:01:15 - 4.) Determine if you can handle the worst-case outcome??? 1:06:55 - 5.) Listen to your gut instinct when the risk is incalculable. 1:13:00 - Wrap up comments...and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 PhyiVantage is used by dozens of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||
| 07 Jul 2020 | Podcast #50: 8 Super Powers of the Very Best Climbers | 00:53:39 | |
What makes great climbers great? What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, and Alex Megos (I call this group "CHHOM")--and others like them--the barrier-breaking and transcendent climbers that they are? You might be thinking of things like "strong fingers", "low bodyfat, and "excellent sponsorship". Surely these are part of the equation, however, I believe the true Superpowers of these climbers are things you can't measure with a fitness test or financial summary. In this podcast I present the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers--traits you can develop (gradually) to achieve great success on the rock and in your everyday life. I hope you find this presentation enjoyable and empowering! Rundown 0:58 - Introduction 2:50 - What does it take to turn an elite climber into one of the very best climbers on the planet? 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers 5:28 - #1: Becoming comfortable with physical and mental discomfort. 11:53 - #2: Uncommon self-awareness and the willingness to embrace failures and personal weaknesses. 16:00 - #3: Effective goal setting and a habitual bias for action. 21:37 - #4: The power to sacrifice greatly. 27:00 - #5: Maintaining a beginner's mindset despite being a highly praised elite climber. 34:56 - #6: The power to handle failure and overcome adversity. 38:30 - #7: The power to handle their "addiction". 45:44 - #8: The power NOT to care what other people think. 50:00 - Summary of the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers. 51:15 - Do you have a #9 or #10 superpower to suggest? Leave your comment on Eric's T4C Twitter @Train4Climbing 52:15 - A brief word about Eric's brand PhysiVāntage -- the first research-based, athlete-proven nutritional supplements for climbers! Get 15% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code PODCAST15 at checkout. Instagram - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy
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| 11 Jul 2022 | Episode #77: Climbing Tactics & Pro Climber Analysis | 01:01:27 | |
Fast-paced and content-rich, this episode features Coach Horst’s analysis of pro climber tactics and strategies as featured on The Struggle Climbing Show #14. Eric discusses vital tactics used by pros including Emily Harrington, Alex Megos, Jordan Cannon, Alex Honnold, Kevin Jorgeson, Justin Salas, and more! This is the third-in-a-series of podcasts on things you can do to climb harder at the boulders and crags this summer…when during this performance season, it’s really the mental, technical, and tactical skills that matter most. Listen, learn, apply, be inspired....and then go send your project! RUNDOWN 0:40 - Intro to this episode on climbing tactics 2:00 - Eric remarks about Ryan Devlin’s new podcast, The Struggle Climbing Show. 3:08 – My analysis episode of The Struggle on “Tactics of the Pros”. 3:40 – Backstory on my enduring interest in climbing…and training for climbing! 6:50 – My personal struggles… 10:00 – Generally, some of the most vital tactics of the pros involve strategies to acquire higher efficiency in their climbing. 11:25 – Using “reframing” as a mental tactic to overcome their struggles. Mental toughness is a superpower of these pro climbers. 13:00 – Developing “mental agility” is central to the goal pursuit of top pros. 15:20 – Recreational climbers share many of the same struggles as the pros! 16:26 – Analysis of Emily Harrington’s comments on free climbing El Capitan’s Golden Gate. Efficiency is everything! (Well, almost.) 19:00 – Learn one way to train climbing efficiency at the gym… 21:10 – Pursue efficiency (and recovery!) when climbing outdoors! 23:15 – Analysis of Kevin Jorgenson’s epic struggle—and win!—on the crux pitch of Dawn Wall. 24:40 – Problem solving tactics that we can apply to our climbing… 30:20 – Sometimes it takes a one-off novel tactic to send! (Emily Harrington adapting to the Monster Offwidth!) 32:00 – More gym training tactics for boulderers… 36:00 – The importance of taking breaks from project boulders/routes…to experience more “wins” and to remember the joy of climbing successes! 37:00 – View difficult days—the struggle—as both part of the process…and a “tuition” of sorts paid to become a better climber. 37:50 – Alex Megos projecting process often includes a route-specific training block. Perhaps, so should yours! 40:55 – Eric’s comments on the Alex Honnold interview…and his different approaches to sport climbing and trad (or solo) climbing. 42:35 – When it’s safe…become fully unbridled and climb until you fall…or send! 44:40 – Learning climbing tactics comes with experience--be patient and frequently challenge yourself with diverse climbing experiences, and you will become a master climber! 48:00 – Some of the common traits/strategies of the pros… 48:38 – 1. They have struggles—more than you may think! 49:35 – 2. Mental agility. Make a game out of problem solving and the process of sending. 50:30 – 3. Trust the process. Learn every day, act with intention, and believe in the end game! 51:20 – 4. Route-specific training…especially for long-haul projects. 52:00 – 5. Build a sport team…and remember to pay it back (or pay it forward)! 54:20 – Final comments about Eric’s multi-decade journey to have an impact on climbers around the world! PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers is the capstone of Eric’s climbing career. Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15. here >> 58:20 – Wrap-up of this T4C podcast. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 01 Jan 2017 | Episode #8: Tips for Effective Winter Gym Training | 01:03:01 | |
Welcome to the launch of the new Training for Climbing podcast! This is one full hour of rich training-for-climbing content, so you may want to take notes or listen twice! Here's an outline of the show: 1:00 - Podcast overview Listen closely. Apply. Send! Music: Misty Murphy Download all the monthly training podcasts for free by subscribing to the "Eric Horst's Training for Climbing" podcast on iTunes. Please leave a review on iTunes! | |||
| 02 Dec 2020 | Episode #55 - Effective Training through the Holiday Season | 00:41:33 | |
2020 has been a challenging year with a global pandemic, a COVID lockdown at home (or two), and limited climbing travel for many of us. We're now entering the holiday season, with COVID lingering, but hopefully, it will bring some opportunity to celebrate (in small COVID-safe groups?), reset our training, and renew our mindset and body. Is this a good time to take a month off from climbing? NO! There are several options for holiday season training, even if it's all at home. I'll present the benefits and drawbacks of each approach. Which is best for you? Listen in...you decide! DEAR FRIENDS: PLEASE BE COVID SAFE THIS WINTER...A VACCINE IS NEAR! 0:15 - Introduction...lingering COVID, the approaching holidays, and your training for climbing! 2:30 - A brief message about the T4C podcast sponsor PhysiVantage. 3:45 - Winter is near...training season is here! What's the best approach to training in the holiday season? I will present 4 distinctly different approaches to training through the holidays. 5:30 - Training Approach #1: Taking a month or so off from training and climbing. Eric addresses the pros and cons of taking a few weeks (or more) off from training and climbing. 8:40 - Training Approach #2: Immediately adjust your training to deal with a current injury or tweak. Now is the time to resolve an injury with appropriate rehab and self-care. 13:25 - Elite level climber question: How would I train this winter to climb my best in the Spring season....versus training to climb at my highest level in a few years? 18:10 - Recap of Holiday Training Approaches #1 and #2. 19:20 - Training Approach #3: Continue with serious in-season training because this is your performance season...or you have a climbing trip scheduled in the next 4 to 8 weeks. In this case, it's important to train for a "peak" for your trip and not succumb to (or minimize the impacts of) holiday season...rich foods and "cheer"). 22:22 - A brief tangent on the diet/nutrition and the "issues" that some athletes have with food. Developing a healthy relationship with food is important for optimal training, beneficial physical adaptations, and maximizing performance. Especially for hard, steep climbing, strength-to-weight ratio directly correlates to performance...so consuming the right foods in the right amounts is vital. 27:32 - Holiday Season Training Approach #4: Strive for a balance between frequent training and occasional indulgences in holiday foods and drinks. You can enjoy the season without being self-destructive to your climbing potential for the early 2021 season. Learn how Eric will be doing it...and determine if it's the right approach for you! 35:35 - Warning: A couple of weeks (or more) of holiday gluttony can have a significant negative impact in terms of weight gain. While putting on a pound or two is no big deal, adding 5 to 10 pounds will hurt your climbing in early 2021...and it will likely require a month or more to lose. 38:13 - The bottom line: How seriously you take your diet and training should be proportional to how seriously you take your climbing! 39:20 - Effectiveness comes when you match your actions to your goals. Live intentionally! 39:50 - Eric's closing comments: In the end, performing optimally and experiencing maximally demands that you nuance your actions and explore the shades of gray...rather than living in a black and white world. PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||
| 24 Mar 2020 | Episode #46 - COVID-19 "Climbing Closedown" | 00:57:39 | |
An often-used proverbial phrase, to encourage optimism and proactive action in the face of adversity or misfortune, is to "make lemonade out of lemons." In this podcast, Eric Hörst presents a hopeful mindset and approach for persevering through the COVID-19 crisis. He details five tips for effective home training and fostering a stronger immune system. Employing this guidance will lower your risk of illness and prepare your body for a quick return to high-performance climbing this summer! Podcast Rundown 0:30 - Opening comments about the global pandemic...and its effects on climbing and life in general. 8:00 - Regarding self-quarantine and areas closed to climbing -- be a part of the solution! 12:10 - Adversity and forced change can sometimes be a blessing in disguise--look for a silver lining in your current situation. Think long-term, consider life course corrections, new goals, and refining your personal "life mission". Consider relistening to Podcast #32 on Success Strategies and Podcast #43 on Tips for Your Best Year Ever! 14:00 - Importance of having a bias for action. 15:38 - Overview of 5 Tips for Coping with the COVID-19 Climbing Closedown...in which gyms are closed, crags are closed, and travel is discouraged or prohibited. 17:54 - TIP #1: If you have a lingering injury or you are returning from a significant injury or surgery, use this climbing-closedown period to engage in deliberate rehab and training. Stay the course, and prepare to be 100% upon the re-opening of our climbing season! 22:00 - TIP #2: Do some generalized aerobic activity outside every day...while maintaining proper social distance. Invest 30 to 60 minutes each day into going for a walk, run, bike ride, or hike. Consider leaving the phone at home...and run, walk, or hike solo with a receptive mind open to innovative ideas, new goals, and other "gifts" from above. 26:39 - TIP #3: Maintain reasonable nutritional surveillance to avoid significant weight gain while away from your normal climbing and training schedule. 29:33 - TIP #4: Do some strength training exercises every day, but vary the muscles trained. Eric's recommended microcycle, using Energy System Training concepts, is as follows: Day #1: Climbing-specific maximum strength and power exercises; Day #2: Climbing-specific endurance training exercises; Day #3: Antagonist muscle training. Repeat this cycle twice per week. (Learn more about Energy System Training in podcasts #21 - #28.) 44:40 - TIP #5: Be proactive in doing a wide range of things to foster a strong immune system. Eric details 7 specific actionable items towards this end. 54:45 - Final comments about staying healthy, mentally positive, physically strong, and purposeful. Consider reading Viktor Frankl's Man's Search for Meaning: An Introduction to Logotherapy.
Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 01 Jul 2017 | Episode #14: Performance Climbing Tips for Weekend Warriors | 01:21:28 | |
If you’re a passionate climber who works full-time (or in school), then you likely train indoors during the week with the goal of climbing your best outdoors on the weekend. In this podcast we’ll dig deep into the rich topic of things you can do to optimize your weekend climbing. I’ll cover a wide range of things—perhaps a few that you’ve not thought about—you can do to arrive at the crag fresh and ready to send your project, on-sight at a high level, or climb for volume and maximum fun! While this podcast will be most meaningful to weekend warriors who specialize in sport climbing, the many tips I serve up will also be quite useful for boulder specialists and multi-pitch climbers. Rundown: 0:50 – Introduction 2:50 – Things that contribute to “low-gravity” send days. 4:35 – Tip 1: Arrive at the crag physically fresh and 100% recovered from your last training or climbing day. Easier said than done... 8:40 – Tip 2: Get your sleep and diet right in the 48 hours leading up to your send day. Performance nutrition is especially important for advanced climbers… Listen up for vital tips! 17:45 – Tip 3: Conduct a quality warm-up before getting on your redpoint or on-sight goal of the day. I’ll take you through what it takes to get your muscles warmed up and nervous system turned on. 24:07 – Tip 4: Make the most of your Day 1 freshness…as you likely won’t be 100% recovered for your Day 2 of climbing. There are a few ways to approach this in order to best invest your time Day 1 and 2. 29:12 – Tip 5: Try to master each project route with the goal of nuancing each move, sequence, clip position, and rest to make it as efficient as possible. In aggregate, striving to refine all aspects of your climb will save you energy and increase the odds of a send—and it just might open up the next grade for you! 39:30 – Tip 6: Rest the right amount between redpoint attempts. I’ll give you science-based guidelines that you can employ and modify, according to how you feel. 44:50 – Tip 7: Breathe optimally, not maximally! Many climbers—and athletes in general—don’t know how to breathe properly to maximize oxygen availability to the muscles. The common practice of overbreathing actually lowers oxygen availability! This is powerful information—listen closely, then begin to become a more conscious breather until you do it right unconsciously. 52:30 – Tip 8: Eat and drink in small/modest amounts throughout the day, but be careful not to overeat and/or overdrink! Many climber tend towards eating and drinking too much during their climbing day with the belief that more is better. Ironically, eating and drinking too much can have the opposite effect. 58:55 – Bonus tip: Get your head right before going for the send. Anticipate success, but accept that a failed attempt is okay…because it’s part of the journey of working and eventually sending the route! As you climb, remain in the moment—take on the route one move at a time—and let the outcome evolve organically. 1:03:30 – Special feature! My thoughts on Alex Honnold’s incredible free-solo of El Capitan, and a throwback to a podcast interview I did with Alex in 2008 after his barrier-breaking free-solo ascent of Yosemite’s Half Dome. Though more than 8 years age, this short interview is quite interesting and revealing. If you’ve seen or heard a recent interview with Alex, it’s remarkable to observe that he’s pretty much the same guy today—as a world-renowned rock star—as he was a 23-year-old just getting his started as a pro climber, per this interview. Enjoy! 1:18:50 – Closing comments Music: Misty Murphy | |||
| 12 Aug 2021 | Episode #65 - Tips & Strategies to Manage Common Climbing Fears - Part 2 | 00:39:37 | |
To climb your very best -- and to truly enjoy climbing -- you need to become an expert fear manager! Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. The fears of falling, getting hurt, failure, embarrassment, and even the fear of the unknown...can be torturous and paralyzing. To climb efficiently and with confidence, you need to be able to assess and manage fear...which is the subject of this podcast. If you haven't already, do listen to Part 1 on Fear -- Episode #62 -- before commencing with this concluding episode on the topic. Enjoy! Podcast Rundown 0:15 - Welcome to Part 2 in our study of fear. 2:14 - A quick recap of Part 1...podcast #62. Listen here. 3:53 - FEAR #3: FEAR OF FAILURE. Ironically, fear of failure often results in failure! 6:10 - 3 strategies to eliminate the fear of failure. 6:20 - 1.) Acknowledge preparedness and training -- it's like money in the bank! 7:50 - 2.) Focus on the process -- stay in the moment. 9:30 - 3.) Accept all possible outcomes before climbing. Then let go of the outcome-oriented thoughts and live out the climb, one move at a time. 10:00 - It's in climbing for yourself -- win, lose, or hanging from a quickdraw -- that you will climb your best! 11:38 - FEAR #4: Fear of Embarrassment and Criticism 13:10 - Strategy 1.) Use failures to learn and improve. Ignore the critics...and focus on being a DOER! This is one of the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers--listen to the Superpowers podcast! 16:27 - Strategy 2.) Take on a bigger perspective -- view your climbing performance over the long-term, not on a daily basis. Ups and downs are normal -- you are NOT your failures! 18:12 - FEAR #5: Fear of the Unknown 21:21 - Strategy 1.) Accept and welcome the unknown--it's a central part of the climbing experience! 23:41 - Strategy 2.) Anticipate and prepare for known, unknowns. 25:52 - Strategy 3.) Take control of self-talk and imagery. 28:00 - Podcast Sponsor - PhysiVantage...the performance nutrition used by dozens of pro climbers for strength gains, recovery, power endurance, and injury resistance. Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 30:17 - Wrap-up with 11 powerful tips to assess and manage common climbing fears. 36:30 - Love climbing unconditionally! 38:00 - Final comments -- PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW...and share this podcast with your friends! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||
| 20 Nov 2019 | Episode #41 - Personalized Nutrition for Training and Performance | 01:16:05 | |
If you're serious about training and climbing your best, then you must be serious about performance nutrition. The foods you consume play a central role in energy production, training adaptations, muscle recovery, connective tissue health, and your strength-to-weight ratio. Combined, these nutritional influences are nearly as significant as the influence of your training program--and, if you get both your training and nutrition right, then a powerful synergy will elevate your performance to a new level! RUNDOWN 00:40 – Intro to performance nutrition. Why it's important. 4:16 - As a guiding principle, climbers should "eat and train" not "diet and exercise." 5:19 - A short story about an aspiring elite climber... 6:40 - One of my favorite sayings...and a powerful guiding principle: "To outperform the masses you must do things they don't do." 7:00 - Pro tip: Eschew group think. Live by your own light. Build your own optimal system to reach your goals. 9:10 - Performance nutrition must be personalized. Many factors are at play...so it will take some effect to get it right. 15:45 - Nutrition is not a black & white topic. There are few "never eat" foods--enjoying rich foods is one of life's great pleasures. Moderation and discipline are critical, however. 18:00 - Beware of the flood of training and nutrition articles on the Internet (and social media posts). Some have great info, but many contain training and nutrition "fake news". 20:15 - Climbing is a strength-to-weight and power-to-weight ratio sport. Therefore, bodyweight is a critical factor and it should be optimized via smart training and nutrition. Caloric restriction may be valuable leading up to periods of performance climbing or competition. 24:15 - Your training and nutrition must be shaped to match your goals. The guidance of a veteran trainer and climbing-knowledgable nutritionist can be invaluable. 26:30 - Definition of "high-quality weight loss" -- this is the goal for elite climbers wanting to maximize performance. 27:30 - How to best create a slight caloric deficit to optimize body composition before competition or performance climbing. 28:50 - High-quality protein is essential for maintaining muscle mass, strength, and power during periods of hard training and/or caloric restriction. The protein requirement is 1.2 to 1.6 grams/kg of body weight per day. Supplementary protein, ideally a high-quality whey isolate, is often necessary to meet this goal while restricting calories. 30:30 - The importance of Leucine, especially in your post-exercise feeding. 31: 08 - Carbohydrate backloading as a powerful performance nutrition and recovery strategy. 34:00 - The value of post-exercise and bedtime whey protein isolate and/or micellar casein. Vegans should consider a pea protein supplement powder. 34:30 - Eric weights in on "fad diets"...low carb, keto, paleo, high carb, etc. 36:00 - The importance of adequate carbohydrates for power and strength-endurance athletes such as climbers. 38:00 - Eric's recommended macronutrient ratio...approximately 60% carbohydrates, 20% protein, and 20% fat. 39:23 - Eric's pyramid paradigm for healthy eating for peak performance. A balanced diet is the pyramid base, while sport-specific nutrition and supplements form the pyramid top. 41:54 - Regarding sports supplements--if you're eating right, then you may get added benefits from certain supplements. 43:30 - Eric briefly mentions the company he founded--PhysiVantage makes the first research-based supplements for climbers. 44:16 - What supplements might work for climbers? 44:30 - Post-workout/post-climbing protein can jump start and accelerate muscle and connective tissue recovery. 45:00 - BCAAs may have some value in a performance setting, but as a regular training aid there could be unintended consequences that may compromise muscle quality and performance in the long run. 47:00 - The importance of increasing muscle quality and muscle efficiency over the long term--this is the pathway to stronger more powerful muscles without gaining weight. 50:00 - What about creatine for climbers? Micro-doses may benefit, but creatine "loading" will likely hurt performance. 53:40 - Anti-oxidants (e.g. vitamin C, E, selenium) will limit the hormetic response to training and potentially reduce desired training adaptations in the long run. 56:45 - Supplements to "prime" the aerobic energy system and increase oxygen kinetics have great promise. Beetroot extract and citrulline malate will likely enhance climbing performance and recovery between bouts of high-intensity exercise. 1:01:00 - What about caffeine? 1:02:30 - Anaerobic lactic system buffers, beta alanine and sodium bicarbonate, have some potential benefits. 1:06:10 - Is a daily multivitamin helpful? What about minerals? 1:07:00 - A chunk of dark chocolate eaten each day has health and performance value. Seriously! 1:08:30 - The benefits of vitamin-C-enriched hydrolyzed collagen for climbers. Supporting connective tissue health is essential for hard-training for climbers. 1:09:32 - A few supplements that don't work... 1:12:00 - Conclusion and closing comments of nutrition for climbers 1:13:00 - Do you value this free podcast? Please write a review, and please share with a friend. SUPPORT ERIC'S CLIMBING BRANDS
Instagram - @PhysiVantage Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy
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| 01 Jan 2020 | Episode #43 - 10 Tips and Concepts to Make 2020 Your Best Year Yet! | 00:20:52 | |
It's the dawn of a new decade, and so I wanted to take this rare opportunity to record a unique and, hopefully, impactful podcast. The topic is...effective training for the climb that is your life. This is a short and fast-paced episode, so I hope that you can find some quiet time to listen closely...and think critically about the 10 tips and concepts that I present. Please listen with an open mind. Search for clues to answering the very important question: "how can I become more effective at pursuing my life goals...and enjoying every day along the way?" I strongly recommend writing down some new and inspiring goals for 2020 (and beyond). Now, immediately get to work on developing a system for reaching your goals. Exude a bias for action each and every day, and I guarantee that many of your goals will be realized! RUNDOWN 0:20 – Intro to the 10 tips and concepts for effective training for life! 2:00 - Concept #1: The quality of your life is directly related to the quality of your thoughts. 4:11 - Concept #2: To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do. 6:05 - Concept #3: Clarity of values and goals—and a clear purpose for living—form the foundation for a life full of rich and transcending experiences. 7:25 - Tip #4: Once you have set a compelling goal, you MUST develop a dynamic intelligent system of action…that will maximize the effectiveness of your daily efforts. Listen to podcast #42 for in-depth coverage >> 8:25 - Concept #5: Risk is a precursor to reward, and almost anything is possible once you conquer the fear of taking calculated risks. 10:00 - Concept #6: Singular focus and indomitable persistence know no limits. This is where you need to channel your inner CHHOM. What’s CHHOM? Listen to podcast #37 to learn the superpowers of top climbers>> 10:50 - Concept #7: Obstacles and adversity make you stronger—and, they are often a blessing in disguise. 11:45 - Tip #8: Life is subtle: sweat the small stuff, NOT the big stuff. (This is the opposite of conventional wisdom—however, conventional wisdom is the way of the masses…and often NOT the way to uncommon success.) 16:10 - Concept #9: The most critical pivot points in life are often that brief moment between stimulus and response. Your destiny is a result of all the decisions you make, and so it’s vital that you are fully engaged in the decision-making process as often as possible. 17:25 - Tip #10: Enjoy this moment: this moment is your life! 19:12 - My Happy New Year 2020 toast to you, Dear Listener... SUPPORT THIS PODCAST!
Instagram - @PhysiVantage Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy
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| 09 May 2023 | #87: The Making of a "Surprise" Hardest-Ever Send! (and the question "Why do we climb?) | 00:33:22 | |
Imagine going from having no project climb...to sending perhaps your hardest-ever route in just a few short weeks. That's the unusual story I will share with you in this episode. The route is Kaleidoscope, the Red River Gorge king line, which checks in at 5.13c. The climber is....yours truly, 50-something coach Hörst. Despite beginning the Spring 2023 season with a bum knuckle, lack of high-end strength, and no plans to project anything hard...fate put me in the right place at the right time. I was struck with the impulse to jump on the intimidating, overhanging pumpfest known as Kaleidoscope, a route I've gawked at many times but never seriously considered working on. I'll share with you my process of working this route and how the redpoint "just happened" one day. You'll learn many mental, technical, and tactical tips that you can adopt or modify to improve your climbing performance! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings 0:50 - Intro to "surprise send" episode -- a sport climbing performance case study. 2:40 - The backstory... 4:35 - Leveraging my current assets as a veteran climber. What I've got going for me! 6:22 - The importance of recovery--my sleep and nutrition habits. 7:30 - My current knuckle pain...and "climbing around it". 8:10 - Stalling out on last season's project climb... 9:35 - Being "fit" but not "strong". 9:50 - Entering the Kaleidoscope! 13:25 - The process, in detail. 15:25 - Details of the crux beta. (SKIP if you're planning an onsight attempt on the climb!) 17:20 - Summary of Day 1 on Kaleidoscope 18:20 - Details of my day 2 and day 3 work on the project... 20:25 - Day 4 progress. Two one-hang goes! Close, yet miles away... 22:20 - Day 5 -- Easter Sunday attempts on the proj. 24:00 - Send go #1 25:15 - A small, but vital discovery... 26:28 - Send go #2 -- Watch the send video here >> 29:45 - My love of never-ending learning as a climber (and beyond). 31:00 - Question: Why do we climb? 31:40 - Closing comments. 31:50 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! Check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! 32:40 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC. | |||
| 11 May 2020 | Episode #48; Strategies for Success Despite Hardship and Adversity | 00:51:41 | |
Climbers are drawn to the challenges and potential adversity of the steep. Great climbers embrace grand challenges--and almost certain adversity--in achieving hard and rare accomplishments. This podcast will equip you with five powerful strategies to leverage, in times of hardship and adversity, as you pursue big goals both in climbing and in your everyday life. And now in this era of COVID-19, you face risk and potential adversity at every turn...so don't miss this powerful podcast--it's an instant classic in the genre of mental training for climbing! Podcast Rundown 0:15 - Opening comments about the ongoing COVID crisis, positive trends we're seeing, and the hope for a summer climbing season. 2:20 - Shifting gears with this podcast away from physical training to important strategies for succeeding on challenging outdoor adventures. Learn the importance of the mental game--perhaps it's exactly what you need to make the next grade?! 9:30 - Strive to become a Maximum Climber. Read the book. Pure gold! 10:00 - Introduction to the powerful topic of...persevering in the face of challenge...and overcoming adversity. 13:36 - The utility of PURSUING adversity....for recalibrating your brain and opening the door to great achievement. All legendary climbers have done it--Harding, Bridwell, Skinner, Hill, Caldwell, Honnold, Harrington, Ondra, and countless others. 22:05 - Embrace adversity...to learn, grow, build character, and "hardness". 23:06 - FIVE powerful strategies for succeeding, despite hardship, and overcoming adversity. 23:16 - #1 Strive for Flexibility of Perspective - Become a spin doctor! 29:30 - #2 Use Optimism as a Tool...a mental lever to sustain forward movement, trouble-shooting, belief in the end game, and finding a way to your goal. 32:04 - #3 - Become Reverse Paranoid! Believe that the universe is conspiring for your success...and that what you want, wants you! Stay aware for synchronicity and other clues from above. 36:36 - #4 Develop World-Class "Hanging-On Power". Mental fortitude is a skill developed over years of striving for one more move, one more rep, one more day of work on the project...or whatever it takes to hang-on to success! 40:45 - #5 Assume a Philosophical Forward-Looking Perspective. Powerful lessons from Tommy Caldwell, Jeff Batzer, and Hugh Herr. 49:05 - Closing comments on developing into a maximum climber. 50:20 - Please check out and support T4C podcast sponsor PhysiVantage. Research-based, athlete-proven performance nutrition for climbers--use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% on your order. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try! 51:09 - Hörst Out!
Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 10 Jan 2019 | Episode #32: Success Strategies for Peak Performance | 01:07:19 | |
New Year's is a great time to think deeply about your goals, re-evaluate your course and strategy, and perhaps even reinvent yourself! Taking your performance to the next level—in climbing or anything—demands CHANGE, courage and commitment, and consistent goal-focused action. In this episode, Eric takes you through a series of thought-provoking exercises and, along the way, he will arm you with powerful techniques and tips to make massive progress toward your climbing and non-climbing goals! Rundown 0:15 – Introduction and New Year’s best wishes! 1:30 – “Climbing performance” and “human performance” are the same thing…so this episode will be wide-ranging. 2:25 – Setting goals isn’t enough—you need a SYSTEM to get you to your goals. 3:15 – This podcast has 5 parts, each with a drill down into a topic that will improve your performance in climbing and beyond. 5:23 – PART 1: Decide that CHANGE is a must! Improving at climbing—or anything—comes no other way. 8:10 – Exercise (pause the podcast): Write down your top 5 to 10 high-value goals/endeavors. Climbing can be one item, but write down your other important life goals (in the next 3 to 10 years). 9:45 – Exercise: Rank your goals in order of importance. Now divide your list into three tiers—the top tier (2 or 3 items) defines your MISSION! 12:50 – Exercise: Now write down 1 or 2 things that MUST give up or change in order to liberate yourself to achieve greatly. What person, activity, or thing is weighing you down…making you miserable and/or consuming your time? 14:45 – Learn how to create massive leverage for change...and supercharge your motivation and progress toward your goals! 17:15 – PART 2: Build Stronger Mental Muscle. Essential for progress, since all performance begins with your thoughts. 18:45 – What we can learn from pro climbers…most of whom exhibit incredible mental muscle, day in and day out. 20:30 – Learn about Eric’s “CHHOM gang” of climbers. What is CHHOM? Who are CHHOM? Strive to be like CHHOM! 22:00 – 4 mental training tips and techniques… 23:20 – a.) Supercharge your visualization. 27:25 – b.) Take control of your self-talk. Keep it 90%+ positive! 31:00 – c.) Act the part. Your posture, facial expression, and attitude create an aura that brings magical energy and synchronicity to you! 33:09 – d.) Surround yourself with positive, goal-oriented, successful people. Also, bathe your mind with positive media, books, images, etc. 35:49 – Side note: Eric’s most powerful book—bet you haven’t read it yet, but you should—is called Maximum Climbing: Mental Training for Peak Performance. A must-read for every serious climber! 36:35 – PART 3: Learn how to Optimize Your Training Program 37:20 – The best training program for you…is one you’re not doing! 38:30 – Advice for Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced climbers. 40:05 – Access to new technology, the latest sports-science, and novel training techniques is essential for Elite climbers to improve. 41:45 – The difference between “copycat” training and “modeling”—the former is bad, the latter is good! 42: 28 – Access to a good veteran coach is extremely helpful…but you can study and learn to be an effective self-coach. 43:45 – PART 4: Simplify your training—simplify your life! Learn how to apply the 80-20 Rule to improve your effectiveness and advance more quickly toward your goals. 45:05 – Eric reveals one of his weaknesses…and his decade-long battle of passions! 49:05 – Eliminate trivial pursuits, trolls, critics, and naysayers...and you’ll be happier and more effective—just like CHHOM! 50:36 – Learn how to use Pareto's Principle ("the 80-20 Rule") to act more effectively in climbing, training, and other important life aspects. 53:10 – Eric comments on the advantages of occasional two-a-day training for advanced/elite climbers. 54:55 – PART 5: Strong shoulders beget stronger fingers! Make this a mantra in developing your finger training program. 57:50 – Your fingers are only as strong as your brain allows! A strong, stable foundation (rotator cuff and scapular stabilizer muscles) is essential for high-end finger training. 1:00:50 – Horst principle: “Develop stability before strength, and strength before power.” This conceptual model will support long-term strength gains and reduce risk. Eric's book Training For Climbing (3rd edition) has a fully chapter (Ch. 6) on exercises for developing comprehensive shoulder stabilizer strength. 1:02:50 – Summary comments about seeing the big picture for motivation and guidance, but narrowing your daily focus on important steps you can take toward your goal. Making meaningful progress towards a goal is the simplest, yet richest source of happiness. 1:05:55 – Check out Eric’s T4C Youtube channel for a short video on how to increase your effectiveness—and accelerate movement towards your goals—in any important life area. If you enjoyed this podcast, PLEASE SHARE it with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. And please write an iTunes review. Thank you!
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes! | |||
| 02 Feb 2017 | Episode #9: 5 Reasons Why Strong Fingers Matter | 00:20:56 | |
While climbing is, first and foremost, a mental and technical skill sport, long-term improvement—and pursuing your genetic potential—demands getting stronger in a number of climbing specific ways. Numerous research studies have confirmed that elite climbers, compared with non-elites, have higher grip-strength-to-mass ratio, greater forearm endurance, and a higher rate of force development in the finger flexors. Therefore, assuming that you have solid technical and mental skills, training for stronger fingers is paramount to taking your climbing to the next level. In this episode you'll learn 5 reason why strong fingers matter--this will set the stage for the next podcast which will cover effective fingerboard training techniques. 0:15 - Intro 1:42 - Reason #1 Why Strong Fingers Matter - They Can Grip Smaller Holds 3:00 - #2: Stronger Fingers Can Endure Longer 9:10 - About Zlagboard 11:55 - #3: Strong Finger Can Rest on Smaller Holds 15:25 - #4: Strong Fingers Have More Stamina 18:15 - #5: Strong Fingers Make Climbing More Fun! 18:50 - Summary 20:10 - Closing Comments Tune in next month for detailed coverage of effective fingerboard training for stronger fingers! Music: Misty Murphy Download all the monthly training podcasts for free by subscribing to the "Eric Horst's Training for Climbing" podcast on iTunes. Please leave a review on iTunes! | |||
| 04 Oct 2016 | Episode #7: Managing the Fears of Falling & Failure | 00:11:59 | |
In this episode we’ll examine two of the most common fears among climbers--the fear of falling and the fear of failure--and I’ll arm you with several strategies for managing, and perhaps even eliminating, these fears once and for all! Music: Misty Murphy | |||
| 06 Jun 2019 | Episode #36: Training to Increase Tendon Strength, Muscle Power, and Connective Tissue Health! | 01:24:53 | |
Sinew training. What the heck is that? Chances are you've never heard of "sinew training"...or even thought about it. After all, genetics and "luck" dictate the properties of our tendons and ligaments, right? WRONG! A growing body of recent research has shown that athletes can play an active role in developing stronger, higher performing tendons and ligaments by way of specific training and nutritional interventions. If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally experience tendon or joint pain, then this podcast will be game-changer for you! This podcast is the third in a series on sinew training. You will learn about the structure of connective tissues, and how you can intervene in your connective tissue health and function...and elevate your power and power-endurance in the process. It's exciting stuff! Be sure to revisit the first two podcasts in this series episode #33 and episode #34, and don't miss the conclusion of this series in episode #37 coming in early July! RUNDOWN 0:15 – Introduction to these ground-breaking podcasts on how you can play an active role in developing stronger, more robust and higher-performance tendons, ligament pulleys (A2 and such). Be sure to listen to the first two podcasts in this series:
2:35 – Eric explains why connective tissue injuries are so common among climbers... 4:00 - Quick review of the new research on muscle and tendon adaptations....which dispell many of the old myths about tendons and ligaments. 9:00 - Eric outlines the 5 parts of this podcast... 12:30 - Part 1: Foundational information about the tendon, ligament, and muscle extracellular matrix (ECM) structure. It's all about proper collagen alignment, supporting net gains in collagen synthesis via adequate rest, and proper hydration. Factoid: gram for gram, collagen is stronger than steel! 26:00 - Part 2: Eric details the subtle, yet vitally important adaptations to training in tendon, ligament, and ECM. Learn the importance of--and differences--between strengthening and stiffening connective tissues. This is hugely important information for fine tuning your tendons for health and periods of performance climbing (or competition). 31:00 - Adaptation #1: Collagen synthesis. Important detail on collagen synthesis following training/climbing. Given adequete rest, a net gain in collagen molecules can result in a very gradual tendon hypertrophy. Factiod: The tendons of veteran climbers may be as much as 50% thicker than lesser experienced climbers. 36:00 - Adaptation #2: Enzymatic crosslinking...a more quick-developing adaptation that can increase connective tissue stiffness and performance. Although certain exercises protocols will actually reduce crosslinking and stiffness--some important distinctions here! 42:48 - Part 3: Learn about 6 confounding factors in collagen synthesis, crosslinking, and connective tissue health. You MUST know this information...and think critically about what factors may make you at greater risk for connective tissue injury...or slow recovery from training/climbing. 50:35 - Part 4: Training interventions for developing stronger, thicker tendons and annular (finger) tendon pulleys, stiffer more robust connective tissues, and how you can reduce stiffness and increase tendon health in the case of tendinopathy or other soft tissue injury. Get ready for a massive download of important information on specific training interventions and protocols for improve tendon/ligament strength....and increasing (or decreasing) connective tissue stiffness. Engaging in a highly personalized program is key! 1:07:08 - Part 5: The revolutionary research-derived nutritional intervention shown to increase collagen synthesis after targeted exercise. IMO, this is truly revolutionary information for power-endurance athletes such as rock climbers. The key is to consume vitamin C-enriched high-quality hydrolyzed collagen 30 to 60 minute BEFORE you engage in targeted exercise--only this way will the glycine and proline in the blood stream reach the synovial fluid and get drawn into the tendons and ligaments support up to a doubling of collage synthesis. 1:14:10 - How to spike glycine, proline, and vitamin C as you train your fingers? Consume Supercharged Collagen and follow the research-based training protocol and you may be able to double collagen synthesis after climbing-specific exercise. Available only from PhysiVāntage! 1:18:20 - Guidelines for proper Supercharged Collagen use and optimal benefit...and how to use it to support recovery from training and/or rehab of a connective tissue injury. 1:22:50 - Podcast wrap-up--PLEASE write and review and SHARE with your partners and friends. IMPORTANT NOTES:
Get 15% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code PODCAST15 at checkout. Instagram - @PhysiVantage Facebook - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy
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| 01 Apr 2022 | Episode #74 - 20 Tips for Advanced- and Elite-Level Climbers | 01:09:36 | |
In this Part 2 in the series, 40 Ways to Improve Your Training and Climbing, Coach Hörst provides 20 tips for advanced and elite-level climbers. Discover how to employ a more nuanced and holistic approach to training and performance -- essential for eeking out further gains for high-level climbers with many years of experience. RUNDOWN 0:30 - Eric's Welcome! 4:04 - Intro to Advanced Climber Tips 6:06 - #1. Strive for a greater nuance of actions taken on and off the rock. 8:02 - #2. Become a true master of rock -- seek to elevate weaknesses...physical, mental, technical. 10:15 - #3. Re-evaluate (and switch up) your finger training. 13:30 - #4. MORE CORE! Learn what to do more/less of. 17:02 - #5. Seek to build a more robust, balanced, and injury-resistant physique. 19:40 - #6. Consider an occasional period of specialization. 23:00 - #7. Create a "seasonality" of your training/climbing system. 25:20 - #8. Employ brief periods of "overreach" training followed by a shorter spell of deload. 28:40 - #9. Clean up your diet and strive to fill in any nutrient shortcomings -- adequate protein consumption is important, but also be sure you're getting the necessary minerals to support muscle function (electrolytes and, in particular, magnesium). Learn how Magnesium supports ATP production here >> 32:30 - #10. Always have fun! Climbing is NOT your job....yet! 34:15 - Intro to Elite-Level Training and Performance 36:00 - #1. Develop a deep, long-term relationship with a coach...or seek out a veteran pro climber to be your mentor. 38:40 - #2. Attack lingering weaknesses...physical, mental, technical. 39:30 - Pro Tip...on the importance of training for a lower resting heart rate 41:40 - #3. Build a stronger cardiovascular system to power longer days of training/climbing, and to speed recovery between exercises, climbs, and workouts. 44:10 - #4. Engage in year-round climbing-specific training -- at least one session per week! 49:02 - #5. Commit to comprehensive core training -- high-level athletic achievement demands exceptional core strength and strength-endurance. 50:12 - #6. Design occasional project-specific training exercises and sessions. 52:38 - #7. Occasionally engage in outdoor climbing styles that are outside your wheelhouse. 54:20 - #8. Embark on a relentless journey to achieve higher efficiency in even the smallest aspects of climbing performance. 58:10 - #9. Be willing to sacrifice greatly. Learn more in this podcast "The 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers" >> 1:01:45 - #10. Elevate your character, and seek a higher level of spiritual awareness and engagement with your surroundings. Believe in your mission! 1:06:20 - Summary comments. 1:07:00 - Support our sponsors, visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 View a list of pro climbers who use PhysiVantage to support their training and climbing >> PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or elsewhere....and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 07 Dec 2018 | Episode #31: Hangboard Training Tips & Research | 00:55:33 | |
This episode provides critical framework and guidelines for effective hangboard training. Based on 30+ years of hangboard training experience--and the latest research--you'll learn the importance of a proper warm up, why you must train different finger grip positions, how to maintain forearm muscle balance and lower injury risk, as well as valuable tips on organizing your hangboard training for optimal results and continued gains in the long-term! Rundown 0:22 - Introduction
2:00 - Who should hangboard train? Guidelines for beginner, intermediate, advanced, and elite climbers. 8:30 - The value of hangboard training for intermittent year-round...and the importance of finding your "best" personalized program. 9:45 - Get compliant! Learn the "120-move" rule for warming up. 15:45 - Why elite level climbers need to do some two-a-day workouts. 16:55 - Beginner guidelines. To hang or not to hang? 17:35 - How proper training (and rest) can make your tendons stronger, stiffer, and slightly thicker given long-term, prudent hangboard training. 18:10 - Which grip positions you should train? How grip position effects forces placed on the flexor tendons and pulleys. Important stuff! 21:00 - Biomechanics of the full crimp grip. 23:12 - Biomechanics of the open-hand grip. 23:30- What about the "open-crimp" grip? 25:15 - Importance of targeting a specific grip position. 26:50 - Research findings on the forces places on the FDP and FDS flexor tendons with different grip positions. 31:50 - Forces placed on A2 and A4 pulleys...and how to train around a minor annular pulley injury. 33:32 - Finger extensor muscle imbalances...and how to train to combat them. 39:45 - Pinch grip training--Eric's "two birds with one stone" training recommendation. 42:08 - Why every serious climbing much do two brief antagonist exercise sessions per week. 43:55 - Reminder that specific hangboard training protocols are detailed in Podcast #10. 45:08 - Tips on exercise programming. 46:50 - Tips for advanced climbers. 48:00 - Elite climber advice: The importance of doing periods of high volume training for Central Governor recalibration--one of the keys to breaking new performance barriers! Learn more on this in my book, Training for Climbing. 50:30 - Keys to long-term gains over decades. Yes, you can do it with dedicated & smart training--if you stay uninjured! 51:35 - Teaser on the next few podcasts...which will break some new ground. Don't miss them! 52:40 - Closing comments about the transcending spirit of climbing...and Eric's good wishes to you for the holidays and New Year! If you enjoy this podcast, PLEASE SHARE it with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. Thank you!
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!
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| 03 Nov 2021 | Episode #68 - Anatomy of a Redpoint | 01:13:56 | |
I've got something different for you in this episode...which I hope that you'll find revealing, instructive, and extremely beneficial. I will take you through the process of working my mini-project during a recent trip to Germany. I'll share with you my thoughts, wide-ranging emotions, and problem-solving techniques in sussing out the beta, challenging my physical limitations (and fears), and going for the send on my final climbing day of the trip. I trust you'll find some techniques and tactics to adopt and adapt to improve your boulder or route projecting. RUNDOWN 0:30 - And now for something completely different -- I hope you love this podcast! 6:18 - Deconstructing a project route: HERCULES (5.13a/7c+) Learn about my 3-session journey of sussing beta, managing fears, and developing a strategy for the send. 13:40 - Session 1: Sussing out the project. 15:40 - Session 2: Getting down to business... 16:20 - Address fears first. Working the first of 4 "chucks"....the unpleasant slab start. 22:52 - Working Chuck #2 - power climbing out a 25-foot overhanging wall and roof. Move by move beta is refined for efficiency and power conservation. 32:20 - Pro Tip: Taking "mental snapshots" of key holds. 34:25 - Dismissing phantom fears... 37:48 - Working chuck #3...the redpoint crux. 41:10 - Dialing in chuck #4...the anchor run. 44:00 - Time for two redpoint goes. So close! (Or, was I?) 50:40 - Message from the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 52:00 - HERCULES on my mind...for days! Visualization and game-changing beta ideas. 57:27 - Session 3 - Mother Nature provides a chance...but could Eric take down Hercules? 1:05:10 - Blow-by-blow commentary of the redpoint go -- a look inside the mind of Coach Horst. 1:12:00 - Closing comments. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 09 Jul 2024 | #101: EXPERT: Optimizing Training, Health, and Performance with Functional Medicine | 01:04:14 | |
Many enthusiastic climbers work hard to level up their performance year over year, and One powerful tool for gaining a performance edge is the use of a functional medicine My expert guest joining us for this episode….is Thomas Cunningham, a Louisville The specific focus of this podcast is the use of regular blood testing, and how you can RUNDOWN 00:15 – T4C podcast mission statement 00:45 – The things we do to level up our performance 1:10 – Intro of podcast topic: Blood testing to optimize health and performance 1:35 – Introducing our expert, Dr. Thomas Cunningham (Instagram: @thomascunninghammd.com) 2:30 – Use of blood test biomarkers 3:45 – Value for older athletes 4:10 – Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- used by 2024 Olympians Natalia Grossman, Alex Megos, and Yannick Flohe'. Get your PhysiVantage at 15% off (code: PODCAST15) at PhysiVantage.com 5:00 – Interview with Dr. Thomas Cunningham 5:30 – What is functional medicine: “Medicine 3.0” 9:30 – Preventative health care through your primary physician – The "Big 4 Killers" 11:20 – Pursuit of “optimal” rather than “average” 14:00 - What testing is appropriate for 20-somethings vs. 50-somethings, etc. 16:40 – “Treat the patient, don’t treat the numbers!” 19:15 – Basic blood panels: Metabolic, Lipid, Complete blood count 22:25 – Self-order/self-pay bloodwork at Quest.com or UltaLabs.com 23:30 – More nuanced blood work to consider: Vitamin D, Hormone Panel, Thyroid Panel, HbA1c, ApoB 31:45 – Vitamin supplements to support Testosterone – vitamin D3, zinc, selenium, boron. (PhysiVantage Nutrition VITALIUM is a single-source supplement containing these micronutrients.) 35:00 – The role of genetics, stress, training, nutrition, and sleep. 37:10 – Considerations for vegan athletes. Supplements to consider: B-6, B-12, Iron, D3 + k2, iodine 40:00 – The journey toward optimization. 47:02 – Considerations for female athletes – abnormalities to watch for and treat. 49:50 – Thyroid function and blood panels 53:00 – Hormone changes in women 55:00 – A brief mention of peptides 57:00 – Get the low-hanging fruit…by getting your sleep and nutrition on point…and do some strength training every week. 1:01:00 – Final thoughts Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 01 Apr 2021 | Episode #60 - How to Create "Low-Gravity Days"...and Climb Your Very Best! | 01:06:52 | |
Learn 8 things to "get right" in order to climb your very best...and to help create more of those wonderful low-gravity send days! Coach Hörst provides powerful tips for priming your body for peak performance in the days leading up to your weekend climbing. He also gives valuable game-day master tips for optimizing your performance and accelerating recover at the boulders and crags. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on your FIRST PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. RETURNING CUSTOMERS: Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code FRIENDS15 Podcast Rundown 3:40 - First, a few comments about the importance of reducing emotional "weight". 4:35 - Tip #1: Arrive at the boulders or cliff truly 100% fresh -- a rare thing among enthusiastic, hard-training climbers. Learn how to do it! 8:30 - Tip #2: Get your sleep and nutrition right both in the days leading up to your climbing...and while on climbing weekends or trips. 17:20 - Tip #3: Engage in a proper warm-up before every climbing day. Learn what things you should do...and how long it should take. 23:40 - Tip #4: Make the most of your day-one freshness and stoke. Should you invest your time and energy into onsight and flash climbing, or projecting? How much should you save of yourself for day two? 28:45 - Tip #5: Strive to "master" a boulder or route...not just thrash through and survive it. This is a rich topic that Eric drills deeply into...with many tips for climbing more efficiently and channeling your inner Ondra! 40:50 - Tip #6: Rest optimally between routes. Learn how long to rest between goes on your project boulder or route...and how you can accelerate recovery. 46:05 - Tip #7: Learn how to breathe more effectively. Yes, proper breathing (and brief breath-holding) is important! 53:53 - Tip #8: Eat and drink the right things and in the right amounts. Small things can make a massive different in your energy and climbing outcomes--this includes the things you eat and drink! 1:00:00 - BONUS TIP: Love climbing unconditionally! Enjoy each moment that you are on the rock. Let go of both past failures and thoughts of potential future outcomes. Trust the process! Let the send evolve organically...when it's meant to be. PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage performance Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||
| 03 Jun 2020 | Episode #49: How To Improve Your Concentration and Focus | 00:37:39 | |
As physical as climbing is, it is even more mental. Being technically sound and physically strong is not enough to navigate a high-ball boulder problem, personal-best redpoint, intimidating big wall, or treacherous mountain. Ultimately, you climb with your mind—your hands and feet are simply an extension of your thoughts and will. Becoming a better climber, then, requires that you improve your mental mastery. In this podcast, Eric describes the vital importance of concentration in a world with ubiquitous distractions conspiring to steal your focus and sabotage your performance. You will be armed with six powerful techniques for improving your concentration and, importantly, maintaining focus in stressful, painful, and fearful situations common to climbing. RUNDOWN 0:45 – Comments on returning to outdoor climbing after COVID-19 lockdown. 1:55 – Importance of the mental game in climbing your best…and sending your project. 3:00 – Distractions are concentration- and performance-killers. 5:30 – The role of stress in climbing and life—striving to avoid stress will limit personal growth. 7:00 – Stretching boundaries is naturally stressful. Embrace it in health doses! 9:30 – In climbing, a focused mind is like having a fifth contact point…and on hard routes that’s all the difference in the world! 11:00 – The ability to maintain concentration over a long period of time is a discerning trait of peak performers. SIX ENEMIES OF CONCENTRATION 13:10 - 1. Focusing on the mechanics of well-learned skills. Let go and 14:05 - 2. Dwelling on internal feelings and sensations of fatigue. Embrace the good pain! 15:40 - 3. Entertaining nonproductive self-talk. Be loud. Be positive! 17:04 - 4. Focusing on the past. Let go of the past. Enjoy the moment! 17:38 - 5. Focusing on the future...and potential outcomes. Let go of the outcome—let it develop organically. 18:15 - 6. Visual and auditory distractions. The world is conspiring to distract you! Specifically, what people, places, and things distract you? SIX TECHNIQUES FOR IMPROVE CONCENTRATION WHILE CLIMBING 20:15 - 1. Deal with potential distractions before you climb. 21:20 - 2. Use rituals to narrow focus. 22:50 - 3. Use self-talk to direct the conscious mind. Be loud. Be positive! 25:08 - 4. Keep your eyes on task-relevant targets. 29:23 - 5. Keep your thoughts in the moment. Mind-body synchronization—and the Flow State—is possible only when your thoughts are in the moment! 31:25 - 6. Use willpower to narrow focus despite adverse or imperfect conditions. Use the pressure of the situation and your will power to create a laser-like focus to perform your best in the moment. 33:45 – The mental game is central to climbing your best and maximizing experience. The mental game doesn’t change from one generation to the next—the risk, the fear, and the adversity of the steep are the same…and links us to past generations of climbers. Strive to become a master of your mind. 35:30 – For a comprehensive manual on mental training, check out my book Maximum Climbing. 36:00 – Please check out and support T4C podcast sponsor PhysiVantage. Research-based, athlete-proven performance nutrition for climbers--use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% on your order. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try!
Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 04 Sep 2024 | #103: Online vs. In-Person Coaching & How Training Has Changed in the Last 40 Years | 00:19:36 | |
This month, I'm serving up multiple "Flash Episodes" of the T4C podcast -- released weekly -- that you can consume in less than 20 minutes. The topics covered in this first episode...include the pros/cons of online coaching...and a generalized look at how training (and nutrition) for climbers has changed over the last 40 years. Upcoming Flash Episodes in September (released weekly) will examine these topics:
This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast. T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 10 Dec 2021 | Episode #69 - 10 Common Training-for-Climbing Mistakes | 01:11:27 | |
"The best training program for you is one that you're not currently doing." — Coach Hörst In this revealing podcast, learn 10 common training mistakes that stunt progress in climbing, slow strength and endurance gains, waste time and energy, and potentially contribute to injury. This is a must-listen impactful podcast for anyone wanting to take their training — and climbing! — to the next level. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 RUNDOWN 0:20 - Introduction -- the value of an end-of-season analysis and training program redesign. 3:16 - Mistake #1: Arriving at the gym and training without a plan 6:50 - Mistake #2: Copying someone else’s training program 11:00 - Mistake #3: “Groundhog Day” Training 17:58 - Mistake #4: Doing little or no sub-maximal climbing Listen to the first in a series of 5 podcasts on Energy System Training >> 26:42 - Mistake #5: Not doing any generalized aerobic training 32:45 - Mistake #6: Doing little or no max-strength hangboard training 39:34 - Mistake #7: Not doing any antagonist and stabilizer muscle training 43:43 - Mistake #8: Getting drawn into a serious weight lifting, body building, or cross-fit style program 49:00 - Mistake #9: Ignoring (and training through) developing aches and pains Listen to podcast #39 on the "Perfect Storm" for climbing injuries >> 58:00 - Mistake #10: Overeating...or undereating 1:08:40 - Summary: Eric's closing comments on improving the effectiveness of your training and taking your climbing to the next level. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 11 Aug 2022 | Episode #78 - Lattice Training's Tom Randall Interviews Eric Hörst on Training Past, Present, and Future! | 01:17:26 | |
This episode is a 75-minute training-for-climbing tour de force by two of the world's top trainers, Tom Randall (Lattice UK) and Eric Hörst (TrainingforClimbing.com). The fascinating format has Tom interviewing Eric on a variety of foundational topics, including finger strength testing and training, methods of endurance training, the pros/cons of System Wall and Campus Training...and the future of training for climbing. This is a must-listen episode for anyone passionate about training for the next grade! RUNDOWN 0:40 - Intro to this epic conversation between Tom and Eric. 1:35 - Eric reflects on seminal conversations with top climbers and coaches, past and present. 2:30 - Eric's first appearance on the Lattice Training Podcast in Spring 2022. 3:23 - Podcast Sponsor message on Supercharged Collagen. Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 >> 5:45 - Interview begins... 8:00 - Endurance Training...past and present. 15:00 - The value of a Treadwall for testing and training. 18:20 - Finger strength training past and present. 22:25 - Importance of personalized training programming. 24:20 - Finger force testing and performance databases. 30:00 - The many paths to harder climbing (besides finger training). 32:30 - Performance profiling and testing. 36:00 - Movement quality assessment. 37:40 - Udo Neumann movement videos. 40:00 - Longevity in climbing. Climbing hard into your 30s, 40s, and beyond! 41:40 - Discussion of key training tools for finger training and more. 43:20 - Importance of climbing outside more often! 44:10 - "Copy cat" training. 45:25 - Hangboard protocols...and "dead ends". 48:00 - Hang boarding to AVOID failure (local aerobic system training). 49:50 - Tom describes how many climbers underperform their strength testing results. 50:55 - The dilemma of weekend warriors -- more time spent training inside than climbing outside. 53:25 - Send Bros (Cameron & Jonathan Horst) need more climbing time, too! 55:00 - System Wall training pros/cons. 1:01:00 - Next level training with a System Wall and Treadwall. 1:04:10 - Eric comments on the advent of the Campus Board. RIP Wolfgang Gullich. 1:07:00 - Tom asks about the nutritional influence on training and climbing performance. 1:09:10 - Importance of getting nutrition right, especially among elite-level climbers. 1:10:25 - About launching PhysiVantage, the first complete line of nutritional products for climbers. 1:12:00 - European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 18 Feb 2018 | Episode #20: Autoregulation, Running & Climbing, and Hörst Family Winter Training | 01:13:26 | |
This episode covers a lot of territory…beginning with a look at the very unique Hörst family winter training program. Next up, is a deep look into using autoregulation to adjust your daily training for optimal results. The podcast wraps up with a look at the benefits (or not?) of running as part of a training-for-climbing program. Podcast Rundown 0:15 Podcast introduction on the 3 main topics: Horst training, autoregulation, and running. 2:00 Eric’s announces winners of T4C raffle…the winners are Mike Ramos (USA) and Harry Crews (South Africa) 3:32 Details on how to get a free download of the eBook “10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers”, and what you can learn from this free book. 6:18 Part 1 – How does the Horst family train in the winter? It’s a question I’m often asked…and so I’ll give you an indepth description of our home gym, our winter workouts, and how we prepare for the outdoor climbing Spring and Summer seasons. 11:00 Disclaimer….your training program should not be modeled after ours--but you certainly can gain lots of useful insight and ideas. 12:15 About the Hörst boys as multi-sport athletes, and how that effects our training for climbing. 18:15 Our winter Mesocycle details for December, January, and February. We employ a very polarized approach for December and January—the focus is maximum strength/power and aerobic development. Listen in for details… 25:12 Then in February we shift gears to a pre-season focus on strength/power endurance training. 30:30 Important considerations for teenagers—and the rest of us—on sleep and nutrition! 32:48 Part 2 - Autoregulation. What it is, and what are the benefits? Learn how to use it to optimize your training and get better results. 38:20 Details of our standard warm-up protocol…which also provides the basis for our autoregulation. 45:00 How you can employ autoregulation in the gym—what adjustments to make and when. 52:15 Part 3 – Running as training for climbing—Is it a good thing, a bad thing, or an “it depends” kind of thing? 54:30 Definition of VO2…and how important a high VO2max is for hard climbing. What does the research stay? 1:00:40 – Learn the important difference between climbing-specific aerobic training and generalized aerobic training. 1:02:00 – In terms of running…how often should you run? What speed and distance is best for a climber—sprints, tempo, race pace, or long slow distance runs? 1:08:00 Research on the benefits of a strong generalized aerobic system on climbing performance. If you climb roped routes or participate in bouldering comps, this is must-know stuff! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy | |||
| 31 Dec 2017 | Episode #19: Tips to Improve Your Training, Productivitiy, & Performance in the New Year! | 01:17:45 | |
I hope you’ll find this New Year’s podcast informative, thought-provoking, and mobilizing! After all, uncommon success comes to people who have big dreams, a clear vision and plan, and a bias for action—these are the keys to success in the climbing world…and the everyday world! In this podcast I serve up 5 generalized tips for improving your training and climbing-related activities to perform better and achieve more in 2018. Towards the end of the podcast I also serve up 5 tips becoming more productive, positive, and happy in all you do in the days and years ahead. New Years is a great time to re-engineer yourself, redefine your personal mission and goals, and to change habits and your personal MO to become more effective in all you do. Let’s get started! Podcast Rundown 1:00 - Introduction to “10 tips for the New Year” podcast….and the importance of having a bias for action. 2:00 – Strive to distinguish between high- and low-value activities. Which dominate your time? 3:20 – Key point: When “good enough” is good enough….and when “good enough” equals shitty! 5:20 – This New Years…step back and see the big picture of your life: What’s your primary mission? 6:00 – Develop a strategy…set goals and make a plan of action. 6:45 – Key point: Happiness comes from making progress in important activities or areas of your life (not from things). 7:30 – Surround yourself with likeminded goal-oriented, action-oriented individuals; avoid complainers and naysayers. 8:00 – Overview of the two main parts of this podcast: PART 1.) 5 tips for more effective training for climbing in the New Year. These tips will be rather generalized—listen to the previous podcast (#18) for specific programming guidelines for your ability. PART 2.) 5 tips to improve your personal effectiveness—how to get more important things done with each minute and hour of every day. 10:30 – Details on book raffle (on January 16th)…learn how to enter. Email a snapshot of your iTunes or Amazon book review to: Horst@TrainingForClimbing.com 12:00 – Part 1: 5 global (big picture) tips for improving the effectiveness of your training—and to become a better climber—in the New Years. Importance of setting process goals (resolutions) for achieving your outcome goals. 14:00 – Tip 1: Climb more often. Becoming a better climber starts here! 17:12 – Tip 2: Train to get stronger. Critical for achieving the higher grades! 24:40 – Tip 3: Do some “smart” endurance training. Key point: Simply climbing until you get pumped, it’s an effective long-term endurance-training strategy. Learn about the continuum of endurance types (and training strategies). 38:20 – Tip 4: Dial in your dietary and recovery habits. Small changes in these areas, integrated over days/weeks/months, can make a majority difference in the climbing performance. Learn how! 48:18 – Tip 5: Commit to twice-weekly antagonist & stabilizer muscle training….which will improve your climbing posture, support more efficient movement, reduce injury risk, and perhaps even feedback to give you a stronger grip! What about free weight training? Learn the best approach to add a few supplement lifts without adding unwanted muscle mass. 55:35 – Closing tips for more effective living in the New Year. Here are 5 tips—or habits to change and/or develop--to get more important things done each day, improve your personal effectiveness, increase the rate of progress toward your goals, and experience more happiness day in and day out! Consider adopting a few of these as your New Year’s Resolutions! 58:20 – Resolution #1: TURN OFF notifications on your smartphone—these will rob you of deep concentration and the important flow state….and steal your effectiveness and your destiny! Don’t be a slave to your phone—be its master. 1:01:45 – Resolution #2: Limit time spent on low-value entertainment and “time killing” activities like surfing the Internet, viewing social media Apps, watching TV or movies. While it’s okay to spend a small amount of time each day relaxing with these activities, they can quickly consume many hours of your life…and rob you of real life, real action, real relationships, etc. 1:04:50 – Resolution #3: Develop good sleep habits…which begins with limiting exposure to blue light in the hours before bed. Avoid use of electronic devices before bed OR wear blue blocker glasses (my approach) which are available for ~$25 from Amazon.com. 1:07:25 – Resolution #4: Reduce needless conflict in your life and steer clear of toxic people (both in person and on social media). Strive to be a compulsive doer…and avoid criticism and negatively. Work, recreate, and communicate with doers….and avoid critical, negative, toxic people. 1:12:00 – Resolution #5: Don’t compare yourself to other people—instead find your own unique personal journey! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Music by: Misty Murphy | |||
| 06 Mar 2023 | #85: Will Running Help Your Climbing? | 00:21:58 | |
It's a question I get asked all the time: "Will doing some running (or other cardio) help my climbing performance?" Giving a proper answer demands some nuance based on the individual's phenotype as well as their current level of climbing experience and fitness, and time available for training. (But in many cases, the answer is "yes".) This fast-paced episode gives a scientific basis for helping you determine if doing some running could enhance your climbing performance. RUNDOWN 0:14 - Welcome 1:00 - Introduction to "running for climbing". 2:20 - The problem with training sound bites and memes... 4:32 - 4 ways that running (or other generalized cardiovascular conditioning, such as swimming, rowing, biking, etc.) can support a higher level of climbing performance 5:08 - #1. Research has shown that more cardiovascular fit climbers recover faster. This means greater recovery on marginal mid-route rests and faster recovery between boulders, routes, and exercises. 8:02- How your resting heart rate can be used as a measure of your cardiovascular fitness. 9:42 - #2. Greater generalized aerobic conditioning will improve stamina for long days of bouldering, climbing, training, and performing at elevation. 11:10 - #3. Regular generalized conditioning can help improve your body composition and increase your strength-to-weight ratio. 13:02 - #4: Running or other cardio has been shown to improve mental state, mood, and energy. 14:24 - Recap: 8 take-home points about running (and other cardio exercises) for climbing.
20:20 - Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 21:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 03 Oct 2024 | #106: Biohacks and Blood Work to Support Climbing Performance | 00:20:01 | |
This 20-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics:
This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast. T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music Remix of the Police Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 04 Dec 2023 | #94: The Road to 5.13a - PART 3 | 00:50:28 | |
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force". This is a follow-up to episodes #86 and #91, in which I coach Ryan through the process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way...as well as a recent big breakthrough. With winter on the approach, the clock is ticking on this send season...and Ryan knows it! Lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be! This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 11 Mar 2024 | #97: EXPERT: Grip Better! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance | 00:37:38 | |
The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset won’t get you up a climb if you can’t hang onto the holds! Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived “stickiness” of the holds – to begin with, there’s the texture of the rock and the degree of incut (or slope) to the hold. Weather conditions, such as temperature, humidity, and wind play a big role in how the rock feels and your skin performs. Body position, center of gravity location, and your finger force vector are huge factors in determining how holds feel and will work for a given move. Last but not least, there’s your skin quality and the structure of your fingertips. Pulpy (fleshy) tips can deform around tiny rock rugosities to give a better grip on tiny holds and, similarly, skin that’s got adequate moisture and elasticity will stick to holds better than thick, dry, callused skin which yields a glassy and slippery grip. It's the latter topic of skin quality and specifically chalk-use to optimize grip that we’ll explore today. To help shed some light on this topic, I've got Kevin Brown, co-founder and CEO of Friction Labs chalk, to download on us some of the science of chalk and skin performance. So lean in and chalk up for this grip-enhancing episode of the T4C podcast! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Intro to skin performance and grip--what things affect the quality of your grip? 3:00 - Overview of chalk and the role of "dryness". 6:00 - The effect of humidity, personal skin quality, and chalk use as it relates to skin wear and climbing performance. 8:35 - Use of Collagen powder supplements to improve skin elasticity, strength, and recovery of damaged skin. 9:20 - Importance of making quality efforts on skin-hard boulders and routes--save skin by making just a few quality attempts over many quick, low-quality attempts. 10:00 - Are all chalks basically the same? Kevin reveals the vast differences in chalk formulations! 14:00 - What's the optimal amount of chalk to have on your fingers? 16:30 - How chalk products on the market vary. Are added drying agents helpful? 19:30 - Common contaminants in chalk...and how they adversely affect grip. 21:10 - The genesis of Friction Labs...and new product development. 22:00 - The utility of liquid chalks--who will benefit from it and how to use it for optimal skin performance while climbing. 24:00 - Difference uses of alcohol-containing chalk versus alcohol-free liquid chalk. 25:00 - Is "drier always better"? What are the pros and cons of various drying agents such as Dry Hands, Carpe, AntiHydral, etc. 28:00 - The importance of developing a personalized skin-care routine... Tips on washing chalk off skin after climbing...and moisturizing skin. 31:00 - How to dry out your chalk...if it gets wet from rain...or deep water soloing. 31:35 - Responsible use of chalk, tick marks, brushing practices, etc. 35:50 - Closing comments and coupon codes *** Friction Labs special offer for T4C podcast listeners -- Save 15% at FrictionLabs.com with checkout code: T4C15 *** Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 07 Feb 2023 | #84: The Role of Genetics in Climbing Performance & What It Means for You | 00:45:17 | |
In this fascinating episode, Eric Hörst provides a deep and thoughtful overview of the research on the role genetics plays in sports prowess and climbing performance. Leveraging his decades of experience as a climbing coach and 30 years engaging with climbing researchers, Eric tells an empowering story of how the average climber can pursue peak climbing performance. RUNDOWN 0:15 - Welcome 0:40 - First in a series of podcasts examining the role of genetics, physical strength/power, body weight, and dietary and nutritional practices on training adaptions and climbing performance. 2:06 - The focus of this podcast is the fascinating topic of the role that genetics play in determining climbing performance. 2:30 - Brief backstory on Eric and Training For Climbing. 5:00 - Intro to the role genetics play in climbing performance. Eric describes the 4 parts of this podcast:
6:05 - Part 1: Eric's general observations and 4 powerful take-home points about climbing as a recreational activity and sport. 10:00 - Part 2: The Role of Genetics in athletic performance...and sports in general. What does genetic research reveal? 18:42 - Part 3: What Role does genetics play in climbing? What does the research reveal? 30:15 - A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! 32:00 - Part 4: The real-life implications of the genetic research...and what it means passionate climbers wanting to excel at this sport? 37:45 - A brief look at epigenetics -- the study of how our behaviors and environment can cause changes that affect the way our genes work. How can we play a role in epigenetic changes...to improve health, fitness, and climbing performance? 40:45 - Summary of key points and actionable items. 43:30 - Best best climber in the world is.... 43:45 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 44:00 - Check out PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). 44:35 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 01 Feb 2024 | #96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!) | 01:20:45 | |
Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever! In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an assessment of his progress as of the end of January. One of Eric's primary off-season training interventions is twice weekly Kilter Boarding. Eric details exactly how he uses this incredible training tool. He also outlines the importance of consistent aerobic energy system training, especially for route climbers, and he provides details on important changes he's made to both his daily diet and sleep habits. RUNDOWN 0:15 - Intro to the most transparent TFC podcast ever! 3:10 - The need to perform an end-of-season "gap analysis". What needs to be done to reach big goals in 2024? 7:37 - The importance of willpower! And one of my favorite quotes: "The will to prepare for success is more important than the will of success." 10:18 - Eric details his personal gap analysis -- a very transparent examination of the things he feels are holding him back. 15:42 - Breakdown of the 4 Action Items in Eric's winter training program. 21:20 - Intro to Eric's winter training plan 22:17 - Action Item #1: Train to become a stronger, more powerful climber on bouldery sequences. Eric provides rich detail on how he's employed twice weekly Kilter Board training to achieve this goal. 29:20 - Eric takes you through his typical Kilter Board workout....from warm up to cool down. 40:00 - Eric shares some of his Kilterboard videos on Instagram: @Kilter_ehorst -- Follow Eric's FA boulders on the Kilter Board app via his username: ehorst 40:45 - Action Item #2: Maintain climbing-specific and generalized aerobic fitness through the winter training season. Lots of important details here for route climbers. 46:05 - Pro climber Amity Warme's incredible 2023 climbing season, finger injury, and rehab protocol and comeback story. Read a full article with details here >> Read the latest research summaries of daily collagen use >> 51:30 - Action Item #3: Drop a few pounds of body fat...and get back to my "fighting weight" of previous years. Listen to Eric's major dietary changes. 1:08:35 - Action Item #4: Improve my sleep habits...to optimize recovery, health, and wellness. Learn about Eric's interventions and data gathering in this important area. 1:16:06 - Closing comments: Learn one of the key traits of top pro climbers that Eric works with or knows. 1:18:00 - Dear listener, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 14 Sep 2022 | Episode #79 - 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World! | 01:02:50 | |
In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route. Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes you wear, how your thinking can make or break a send go, and so much more. RUNDOWN 3:40 - 13 Little Things That Make a BIG Difference When Limit Climbing 4:15 - 1. The first “little, big thing” is to breathe more intentionally. Learn how to do it...to save energy, accelerate recovery, and help maintain focus and confidence. 10:30 - 2. Climb during the optimal time of the day. Learn how to plan your send goes for your strongest (and the stickiest) time of day. 14:17 - 3. Eat & drink appropriately. Learn how much you should drink and eat for a short session--or a full day--at the boulders or crags. 20:00 - 4. Empty bladder and bowels beforehand. Learn how to deal with golf ball bladder...and lighten the load before your send go. Click here for information about the benefits of MAG-ATP supplement from PhysiVantage. 26:30 - 5. Get a perfect warm-up! Learn the 7 steps of doing a perfect pre-send warm-up. Also, listen to Podcast #67 for a comprehensive discussion of the physiology of getting properly warmed up for hard climbing. SPONSOR MESSAGE: Less pump, more endurance -- Endure X! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com 32:45 - 6. Don’t Take Any Wasted Any Goes! AKA make every go count! Don't start up the climb with any uncertainty in beta. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure-up your beta. 39:15 - 7. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure up your beta. 41:13 - 8. Rest appropriately between goes. How minutes (or hours) should you rest between boulder problem and sport climb attempts? 44:35 - 9. Rest optimally on the route. Climb fast and rest well! Know how to use optimally whatever rests the boulder or route offers you! 45:45 - 10. Win the skin game! Learn how to make your skin last longer... 50:45 - 11. Brush the most critical holds! This is critical for increasing friction on small, slopey holds. Brush liberally. 52:00 - 12. Make sure you’re wearing the right shoes for the boulder or route at hand. If you're not packing in two different pairs of shoes, you should consider it! 54:45 - 13. Believe in a positive outcome, but let go of the need to succeed. Accept that the send will happen when it's meant to happen. Enjoy climbing the piece of rock in front of you...and take it one move at a time. 58:15 - Bonus Tip: Have a great belayer you can trust…AND a stoked and supportive ground crew that knows when to yell encouragements at you…and when to shut up and let you take care of business. 1:00:10 - Do YOU have a favor send tip? Share your "little, big" send tip to Eric and perhaps he'll feature it on a future podcast. You can leave your tip on Eric's Twitter @Train4Climbing or on the Training for Climbing Instagram @Training4Climbing or T4C Facebook page. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 02 Oct 2023 | #92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium | 00:38:25 | |
In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August. I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings 0:50 - "Insider Information" from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM)Symposium 1:48 - Backstory on CCM - Follow @ClimbingMedicine 3:30 - Overview of this year's 3-day conference at Squamish, BC. DAY 1 (abridged) 7:00 - A2 Pulley injury insights from Dr. Isa Schöeffl 7:40 - Update on Growth Plate fractures among youth climbers. 9:10 - Low Energy Availability (LEA) 10:00 - Insights into RED-S concerns with young and elite-level climbers 11:00 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl updated on his resignation from IFSC MedCom. 13:52 - Screening with BMI? Next steps? 15:50 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl on injury trends among climbers 17:15 - Increase in SLAP tears (shoulders) DAY 2 (abridged) 18:52 - Dr. Jared Vagy on ACL surgery rehab and recovery timeline 22:20 - ACL injury risk reduction 23:06 - Why female athletes have more ACL injuries than their male counterparts 24:47 - Xeber Iruretagoiena presents his techniques for using High-Resolution Ultrasound Diagnosis of the Most Common Climbing Injuries of the Fingers 27:55 - List of other medical presenters on Day 1 and 2: Dr. Yasser El-Sheikh, Dr. Herb von Schroeder, Dr. Carrie Cooper, and Dr. Marieta Buse DAY 3 (abridged) 30:55 - Craig Berman on Kinesthetic Intelligence and Movement-oriented exercises to enhance climbing performance...founded on content from his recently published movement-training book, Climbology. Get it here >> 31:30 - Dr. Tyler Nelson presented in depth on effective finger training and injury avoidance 32:04 - Steve Bechtel on The Strength Continuum and Concurrent Development of Multiple Facets of Fitness 32:40 - Eric Hörst presented his conceptual model for effective Energy System Training and he gave a primer on Nutritional Ergogenic Aids for Climbers - For an in-depth study of Energy System Training listen to Podcasts #22, #23, #24, #26, #28. Listen to Episode #22 first >> 33:10 - Eric comments on the potential value of nutritional ergogenic aids to support peak performance. 36:36 - Check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! 37:25 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 37:50 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC. | |||
| 01 Jun 2018 | Episode #25: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 2) | 00:56:15 | |
Welcome to the second round of "Ask Coach Hörst"...where I answer 10 listener questions. This episode covers vast terrain from fingerboard training to climbing nutrition to youth training to elbow tendonosis and more! Each question & answer runs about 5 minutes. 1:12 - Question #1 - When fingerboard training with weighted hangs...what's the weight-added difference when doing 10" x 1 max-weight hangs compared with doing the 7"/53" x 3 protocol? 5:17 - Question #2 - Is training individual fingers by suspending a light free weight from a sling a useful technique? 10:40 - Question #3 - What days should I do supplemental training if climbing four days per week (combined outside and indoors)? 14:47 - Question #4 - Belaying and rehab advice for recovering for a climber returning from a broken wrist? 17:37 - Question #5 - Training recommendations for a 50-something climber with extensive background in weight lifting and running? 26:30 - Question #6 - Advice on dealing with...and hopefully recovering from medial elbow tendinopathy? 31:00 - Question #7 - My anaerobic endurance (power output) drops sharply at 40 to 45 seconds into hard, sustained climbing--how can I train to improve my anaerobic capacity? 37:51 - Question #8 - Can you recommend some pre-workout foods and give advice on what to eat at the crags? Also, how much protein should I eat each day? 44:20 - Question #9 - Mother asks Eric's training advice for her 12-year-old daughter...a nationally-ranked boulderer. What's the best training approach? 49:35 - Question #10 - How to organize training when you have a hangboard at home, but your access to a training/bouldering wall is at a gym without a hangboard? 52:10 - Wrap up...How YOU can submit a question for the next episode of "Ask Coach Horst". Visit my Twitter @Train4Climbing and leave a comment to the pinned "Ask Coach Horst" podcast. NOTE: I'll record the next episode of Ask Coach Horst in late July for release in early August. If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing -- include your first name, location, and years climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 07 Nov 2023 | #93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers | 00:43:57 | |
In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I’ll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the past…and chances are that you are too. But by recognizing our flawed approaches we are empowered to make course corrections that can improve the effectiveness of our training in the short term and, over the long term, accumulate into a massive change in our ability to crush hard things and break new barriers! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Welcome 0:50 - Introduction to the "7 Mistakes" that can compromise the quality of your training and blunt the performance gains 3:09 - Let's get started...and elevate our training and climbing! 3:55 - Mistake #1: Not having an intelligent plan for each training session. 5:40 - Mistake #2: Making every workout a competition with yourself. 9:40 - Mistake #3: "Cramming” training before a weekend trip, competition, or longer road trip. Learn about the performance nutrition used by Top Pros - Get 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). 14:25 - Mistake #4. Training through injury. Listen to previous injury podcast on the "perfect storm" for getting injured. 22:28 - Mistake #5: Following someone else’s training plan (i.e. copy cat training) 25:35 - Mistakes #6: Training your strengths….ignoring your weaknesses. 31:35 - Mistake #7: Training hard and smart, but failing to get adequate sleep and proper nutrition to support your training. 39:02 - Bonus...Mistake #8: Engaging a various acts of self-sabotage. 42:00 - Summary thoughts. Please check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 43:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC. | |||
| 13 May 2024 | #99: EXPERT: How Climbing Shoes Affect Your Performance. Big time! | 00:56:24 | |
When it comes to climbing, no single piece of gear is more influential on your performance than your shoes. Getting the right shoe fit and feel for a given boulder or route is critical to climbing your best! However, there are dozens of climbing shoes on the market with widely varying designs, looks, and prices. What's the right shoe(s) for your gym training and outdoor rock climbing? What features should you look for? How tight should you fit your shoes? Our shoe expert, Michael Genauer from La Sportiva NA, will answer these questions and many more in this episode. Listen and learn how to make your climbing shoes perform better for you! Reminder: T4C episode #97 provided a look into the science of chalk and optimal chalk use. Combined with today's podcast #99, these two episodes provide a comprehensive look into the quality of your four points of contact with the rock. If you want to climb better, then you must strive to optimize your purchase with each contact point. RUNDOWN 00:20 - Introduction 1:30 - Building on podcast #97, my interview with Kevin Brown about the science of chalk and optimal chalk use. 2:00 - Now we look at the feet! How shoe design, fit, comfort, and price affect footwork and climbing performance. 4:00 - Podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15. 7:00 - Overview of shoe design, parts, and craftsmanship. 10:00 - Heel structure and performance. 16:10 - Downpointing and asymmetric shoes for high-performance sport climbing and bouldering. Details on the La Sportiva "PD #". 18:45 - Entry-level shoes versus high-performance fit. 20:50 - Why outdoor climbers likely need 2 or more different pairs of shoes....for optimal performance on different rock types and climbing styles. 22:00 - Lace-up shoes versus slip-on shoes. 27:15 - Lined versus unlined? 29:10 - How much should you "size down" your climbing shoes (compared to your approach shoe size)? 32:05 - Shoe fit for kid crushers! Tips to optimize performance and reduce risk of toe/foot injury. 33:20 - Shoe rubber, stickiness, and temperature effect on optimal rubber performance. 38:50 - Proper care tips for maintaining your shoe's performance and extending the life of the shoe...so hopefully you can get a couple of resoles out of each pair of new shoes. 40:20 - When to resole your shoes? 46:10 - Does the country a shoe is manufactured in tell us anything about the quality and performance of a shoe? 52:00 - Closing thoughts, and discussion about La Sportiva's new retail shoe in Boulder, CO. Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 13 Dec 2019 | Episode #42 - An "Intelligent System" Approach to Climbing Training and Goal Pursuit | 01:12:13 | |
Effective training can't be haphazard, nor done ad-lib. In this podcast, you'll learn a supremely effective conceptual model for training that adopts an "intelligent system" approach. Eric describes the nine elements of an intelligent system, and how you can incorporate this system to optimize training results and accelerate goal pursuit! RUNDOWN 1:30 – Intro to the TFC podcast 3:19 – Learning to climb is simple; learning how to train effectively is complex! 8:10 – Employing a “systems” approach to your training and goal pursuit. 10:32 – The value of waking each morning with a mission. 16:20 – Eric shares some climbing history…and names 5 legendary, transformative climbers that influenced him and helped inspire this systems approach to training/climbing. 17:55 - #1 Warren Harding…applied a mission approach to big wall climbing…and took commitment and suffering to a new level. 20:00 - #2 John Gill – The father of modern bouldering and training for climbing. Read his biography, Masters of Rock (by Pat Ament). Gill was climbing V9 (in hiking boots) in 1959! 22:00 - #3 Wolfgang Gullich – Applied a systems approach to training and hard climbing…and opened up the world’s first 5.14a, 5.14b, and 5.14d. Wolfgang helped invent the campus board, a climbing-specific form of plyometric training. 23:50 - #4 Todd Skinner – A pioneer of big wall free climbing, hard bouldering, and limit sport climbing, Todd employed a mission approach to climbing on a massive “all-in” and multi-year scale. 25:15 - #5 Lynn Hill – First female 5.14 ascent, World Cup Champion, and Free Ascent of The Nose of El Cap (1994). Lynn, like the other four legendary climbers, employed a systems approach to her climbing life. 27:40 – Two more important influences: my parents! My father, an engineer and inventor, helped shape my innate sense of needing to employ a systems approach to training/climbing. 29:10 – (oh yeah, climbing influence #6)….Jim Collins, a leading climber in the early1980s; later a best-selling author and business consultant, Jim described my mega-goal concept as a "BHAG". Big Audacious Hairy Goal! 30:30 – Conceptual model of a “System”. 30:40 - Five elements of an open system: 1. Input, 2. Output, 3, Structure, 4. Transport, 5. Conversion. 33:30 – Making a system into an “Intelligent System” with four additional elements: 6. Goal, 7. Sensor, 8. Controller, 9. Disturbance. 40:00 – Applying an Intelligent System approach to your training and goal pursuit. If you’re an advanced or elite climber, then employing a highly personalized system approach to training is essential for pursuing your genetic potential…and mega goals! 42:00 – Some climbing-specific examples of employing an intelligent system approach to training. Examples of how each system element relates to daily training activities and mission pursuit. 53:35 – Tips for applying a systems approach to your training and non-training activities 55:00 – Importance of having a mega-goal. What’s your BHAG? You also need a series of short-term goals to make your journey more rich and enjoyable…and to help maintain motivation and a sense of progress. 57:00 – Importance of consciously selecting your INPUTs—training, rest, food, things you do to support recovery, etc. 1:01:50 – SENSOR…your subjective sense of movement quality and fatigue while climbing and training; but also via objective measures...such as tracking of metrics of fitness (grip strength, bodyweight, etc.) 1:04:30 – The power of DISTURBANCES to covertly sabotage your training and knock you off course from your goals. Strive to anticipate, avoid, or quickly course-correct. 1:07:20 – Most important: Be proactive and fully engaged in the process of training, climbing, and living. Don’t be an NPC! 1:09:30 – Wrap-up: PLEASE support this podcast! Visit PhysiVantage.com to explore the first performance nutrition products designed for climbers. These products are research-based, used by pros and amateurs alike…and they work! Save 10% off non-sale items with the code “save10” at checkout.
Instagram - @PhysiVantage Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy
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| 27 Jul 2021 | Episode #64 - Performance Training Interview with Coach Hörst - Part 2 | 01:19:17 | |
This is Part 2 of Steven Dimmitt's (Nugget podcast) interview of Eric Hörst on a wide range of climbing training and performance topics. In this episode you will learn...how young guns Cameron Hörst (20) and Jonathan Hörst (18) train compared to their coach dad (age 57), tips for parenting/coaching youth climbers, what it takes to climb the next grade (whether it's 5.10 or 5.15), sloper training, the importance of protein, and more. There's a ton of great tips and sage advice in this episode. Lean in and listen up! Podcast Rundown 00:12 - Intro and overview of Part 2 of Steven Dimmitt's interview with coach Eric Hörst 2:25 - How Cameron and Jonathan Horst train for elite-level climbing compared to the training of their coach father training for his master's climbing ascents. 4:05 - Advanced hangboard training protocol details. 6:30 - Importance of listening to your body, adjusting training, and route-specific training. 7:30 - Tendon "loading history" and effects of youth climbing on tendon core structure. 8:30 - The pros/cons of youth single-sport and multisport involvement. 16:05 - Tips for parents and coaches of youth climbers. 18:15 - Climbing benchmarks of the Hörst brothers (aka The Send Bros). 20:25 - Current status of the Hörst brothers climbing. Cameron (age 20) just climbed his fourth 5.14d and first 5.15a (after this interview was recorded) and Jonathan (age 18) send his second 5.14c in July. 23:35 - Eric's "old climber" dream goal: A free big wall...or sport 5.14a? 25:20 - How to "win" as a weekend warrior? 30:00 - What it takes to climb the next grade... 31:45 - Nature, nurture, and willpower! 33:55 - How to improve on big holds? 34:30 - Pinch training tips... 37:00 - Sloper training. 38:55 - Importance of training wrist flexion and extension. 41:40 - What's most exciting about training for climbing in 2021? 42:30 - Pros/cons of system wall training. 46:00 - The role of nutrition in training and performance. 48:30 - The importance of dietary protein...to support strength gains, connective tissue remodeling, muscle protein synthesis, and more. 50:10 - Overview of Eric's PhysiVantage product line...and the benefits for recreational and pro climbers alike. (Get a 15% discount off full-price nutrition with checkout code: NUGGET15) 52:45 - All about supplementing with hydrolyzed collagen powder--overview of the fascinating research...and the numerous benefits for hard-training climbers, if you time it correctly. 1:09:30 - The value of high-quality post-workout protein consumption...plant-based or whey isolate...it's a difference-maker 1:16:30 - Wrap up comments...and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 PhysiVantage is used by dozens of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 Podcast Audio and Content Copyright 2021 Hörst Training, LLC - All Rights Reserved. | |||
| 06 May 2018 | Episode #23: Energy System Training (part 2) - Anaerobic Lactic System | 00:57:18 | |
This is the second in a five-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts to obtain better results in the long-term. This episode (and the next) focus specifically on the Anaerobic Lactic energy system and how to best train for adaptations that will increase your anaerobic capacity. This is a cutting-edge topic with huge potential, especially for advanced and elite climbers, to open up new levels of strength, power, and endurance. By thoughtfully and accurately applying my energy system training guidelines, you will be able to train more effectively and, hopefully, obtain gradual training gains for seasons and years to come! Podcast Rundown 0:20 – Introduction & comments on why the energy system training conceptual model is valuable...especially to advance and elite climbers. 3:17 – "Thank yous" for all the feedback on the first Energy System podcast. My offer to answer YOUR questions via the next “Ask Coach Hörst” podcast…coming in late May. Submit your question on Twitter @Train4climbing and please include your name, home town, and years climbing. Keep your question short and focused. 5:40 – A first look at the anaerobic lactate energy system...and what we're going drill down into over the next 50+ minutes. 8:00 - Warning about old information and bad advice (and questionable training protocols) that are widespread in the public domain, regarding energy system training. Climbing is a novel activity and in this podcast I am presenting a climbing-specific breakdown of energy system training that may be much different than what you've read or heard for other sports...or other coaches. The science has changed somewhat in recent years... 9:37 - Example: "Lactic acid"...a commonly used term by many laypersons, as well as many athletes, coaches, and even some academics not on top of the latest research on bioenergetics. Listen and learn! Lactate anions and protons (H+) are 99% dissociated at human physiological pH...so talk about "lactate" and "proton" (or acidosis), but NOT "lactic acid"! 13:20 - The 3 parts of this podcast: 1. a review of the three energy systems, 2. an in-depth look at the strengths & weaknesses of the Anaerobic Lactic energy system, 3. a detailed presentation of numerous training strategies & protocols for increasing anaerobic capacity (due to length, this third section is in a separate podcast (#24). 14:50 - Part 1: Overview of the 3 energy systems..and how they overlap and interact. 15:48 - It's all about synthesizing and breaking down ATP to power muscle contraction (and relaxation). Did you know you breakdown your body weight in ATP each day? True story! 18:40 - Review of the ATP-CP system...the source of anaerobic power (highest rate of ATP production & splitting). 21:25 - Teaser on the Anaerobic Lactic energy system. 26:16 - Teaser on the Aerobic energy energy system...the pathway by which ATP can be generated for sustained exercise beyond ~2 minutes, although only at about one-third the power output of the Anaerobic Lactic energy pathway. 29:10 - The unique nature of climbing makes understanding the constant interplay of the 3 energy systems difficult to grasp...and even harder to properly train. 30:10 - For example, frequent occlusion of blood flow to the finger flexor muscles forces a high dependence on anaerobic energy production...and, thus, makes rapid fatigue (drop in power output) a common problem. You can help reduce this dependence by climbing faster and reducing the length of time you grip small/difficult hand holds. 33:00 - A bit on developing climbing research...and about this summer's International Rock Climbing Researches Association (IRCRA) conference in Chamonix France this summer. 34:02 - Drill down into how the Anaerobic Lactic system works. The three energy systems overlap, but it's the Lactic system dominates in sustained near-all-out exercise lasting 15 seconds to about 1 or 2 minutes. 36:25 - About the byproducts of anaerobic glycolysis...and how the limit this energy pathway and your capacity to produce ATP via the anaerobic pathway. Details on the source of fatigue and the training adaptations that you are after. 40:10 - Learn how lactate forms...and how lactate is actually a good thing (NOT a bad thing, per the common belief). 42:45 - Learn one of the secrets of Adam Ondra's climbing prowess. Details on my IRCRA conference presentation...breaking down Adam Ondra's ascent of Silence (5.15d) and Margo Hayes' ascent of Biography (5.15a). 44:20 - The drop in power output from 45 seconds to 75 seconds of sustained difficult climbing is profound...as the lactic system begins to fail and the oxidative system becomes the primary source of ATP production around 60 to 75 seconds into near-all-out activity. 46:30 - The importance of lactate, anaerobic enzymes, and lactate transporters to enable continued anaerobic lactic energy system production...and increase anaerobic capacity. 49:20 - Learn what happens to all the lactate created in your climbing muscles. 51:30 - Importance of training up all 3 energy systems...and trying to "keep all 3 balls in the air" from a performance perspective. 53:00 - Why it's helpful to learn about bioenergetics and sports science--it will empower you to train smarter! 54:45 - Final point: Think of anaerobic power as maximum rate of ATP product (in a 5 second burst)...and view anaerobic capacity as the volume of ATP you can generate in a given period of high-power anaerobic exercise/climbing (say, in 45 seconds or a minute of all-out climbing). 55:28 - Wrap of this part of the Anaerobic Lactic system podcast--breaking this stemwinder of a podcast into two Parts...the next will be released just a few days after this one and it will cover training protocols for developing a greater anaerobic capacity. So tune into Podcast #24 for that important information! 56:00 – Final send off - PLEASE SHARE the T4C Podcast!
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy | |||
| 29 Nov 2017 | Episode #18: Winter/Off-Season Training Strategy | 00:57:24 | |
Learn a proven and effective approach to off-season training, broken down for beginner-, intermediate-, and advanced/pro-level climbers. Eric discusses how to handle nagging injuries, refresh motivation, and develop an winter-season training strategy to climbing your hardest next year! Podcast Rundown 1:00 - Podcast introduction including a discussion of new projects and my T4C YouTube channel. 2:00 - Brief intro to Jerry Moffatt's MasterMind...the best-selling Gimme Kraft, and Claudia Ziegler's "The Young Savages" book (featuring Adam Ondra, Shauna Coxsey, and more!) 5:50 - T4C Raffle! Eric explains how you can win a free copy of The Young Savages or a signed copy of Training For Climbing (3rd edition) 7:43 - Introduction to...End-of-season & off-season training strategy. 11:40 - Step #1: Take 2 weeks off from training and climbing, then evaluate your physical health. If still experiencing any joint or muscles pain, then get it resolved--see a doctor or physio. Do NOT try to "climb through" your injury! Learn how to "train around" it. 19:40 - Step #2: Begin an intelligent, well-designed and executed off-season training program that addresses technical & mental weaknesses and physical constraints. Program recommendations will be served up for beginner, intermediate and advanced-level climbers. 22:08 - The best off-season training approach for beginner climbers is.... 27:52 - Eric explains his "training target" analogy. 28:15 - Intermediate program recommendations 37:00 - The importance of training the rotator cuff and scapular stabilizer muscles--not just for injured climbers! 38:06 - Learn how the brain acts as a governor limiting your grip strength in body positions that severely stress the shoulder joint. Yes, a stronger rotator cuff = stronger fingers! Specific exercise guidelines are found in chapter 6 of Training for Climbing. 41:32 - Advanced/Pro-level off-season training tips. Physical testing and expert coaching is essential to hit the bull's eye of your training target--vital for opening up the next grade. 48:00 - Importance of seeing the big picture (and mission), while nailing the critical training details (the bull's eye!). 49:10 - Warning about training too much, thus exceeding your recovery ability...and getting lackluster results...and risking injury. 51:30 - Wrap up and closing comments. Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Music by: Misty Murphy | |||
| 10 May 2022 | Episode #75 - Increasing Self-Awareness in the Pursuit of Excellence | 00:43:40 | |
Self-awareness is the ability to monitor your internal climate, comprising your thoughts, physical sensations, and emotions, as well as the quality of your actions in the gym, at the crag, and in pursuing your life goals. Improving performance in anything demands that you develop higher awareness in each of these areas. Only this way can you improve your efficacy, make beneficial course corrections, and elevate your performance. In this podcast, Coach Horst details six areas to strive for increased self-awareness in order to pursue excellence in climbing...and beyond. RUNDOWN 0:40 - Intro to leveling up your climbing in-season. 3:50 - It's the mind that matters most when it's "send day" for you at the boulders, crag, or in competition. 4:55 - Overview of self-awareness...and its importance in elevating performance. SIX AREAS TO INCREASE YOUR SELF-AWARENESS 11:53 - #1 is Self-Awareness of Your Thoughts 15:55 - Four techniques to exercise your self-awareness. Learn more about self-awareness and mental training for higher climbing performance in the book Maximum Climbing >> 18:00 - #2 is Self-Awareness of Body & Emotions 21:10 - #3 is Self-Awareness Your Strengths & Weaknesses 22:18 - Exercise: Click here to view the episode webpage with the PDF download of a brief self-assessment to aid your self-awareness of climbing strengths/weaknesses >> *** Message about our Sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition, the leader in climbing-specific nutrition. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** 24:36 - #4 is Self-Awareness of your Actions and Results 27:40 - Link to the previous podcast on Proprioception >> 31:00 - #5 is Self-Awareness of your Self-Image 34:!5 - Learn how to reshape your self-image with techniques detailed in Chapter 11 of Training for Climbing. Purchase a copy here >> 34:30 - #6 is Self-Awareness of Your Values. 35:20 - Click here to view episode webpage with a PDF dowload to rank your values here >> 37:52 - Summary of tips and strategies to improve your self-awareness and elevate your performance. 40:50 - Final thoughts *** Support our sponsor! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** View a list of pro climbers who use PhysiVantage to support their training and climbing >> PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or elsewhere....and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 06 Feb 2020 | Episode #44 - How to Train More Effectively and Climb Harder! | 01:18:32 | |
4 Tips to Improve the Quality of Your Training and Accelerate Progress Toward Your Goals! It's been said that the definition of insanity is doing the same thing expecting to get different results. Progress demands change. Doing hard things demands great change. Uncommon success demands uncommon self-awareness, discipline, and effort. This podcast presents four ways to refine, re-invent, or perhaps completely overhaul your training to get better results in the pursuit of your goals. RUNDOWN 8:50 - Develop a detailed and compelling game plan for 2020. On a calendar, block in possible road trips, competitions, and other major life events. Consider what additional shorter trips (weekends and holidays) you can schedule. Now, think about developing a training plan to be maximally effective for preparing you for each trip. Don't forget to include a 3 to 7 days "training taper" before significant trips. 11:45 - Refine, re-invent, or overhaul your training! Do you do the same familiar training program day after day? Are you now training in the same basic ways you did one year ago? If so, it's time for a change! Listen closely for ideas how....and beware of the "shiny object"! 25:55 - Begin using Auto-Regulation before every serious climbing-specific workout. This is a big-time tip! Pretty much all elite athletes use auto-regulation, and so should you! In this section, I describe 4 "stages" of recovery, and how you can determine your stage of climbing-specific recovery on any given workout day. Listen closely, and develop your own personalized progressive warm-up to accurately auto-regulate all of your serious climbing workouts. 57:40 - Add a new element to your training! Something you don’t ever do…or do infrequently. It must be climbing-specific and it must make sense to do…in terms of addressing a physical or technical weakness. View this new thing as a wild card—something that you might be apprehensive or scared to do. Sometimes in climbing, the thing you fear or avoid is exactly what you NEED to do to open the door to another level of performance. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST!
Instagram - @PhysiVantage Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy
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| 05 Jan 2021 | Episode #57: A Simple System for Extreme Success! | 00:11:04 | |
The beginning of a new year is a great time to think critically about your current situation…and trajectory. What are your short-term goals...and long-term destination? How will you get there? As you will soon discover, this short podcast transcends climbing performance—it’s about human performance! What does it take to achieve extreme success? What’s the #1 thing holding most people back from reaching their big life goals? Eric describes his formula for making steady daily progress towards achieving important goals. You can apply this conceptual model to accelerate progress in any endeavor. So what are you waiting for? Listen. Apply. Achieve! PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||
| 28 Jul 2018 | Episode #27: Ask Coach Horst - Round 3 | 00:52:01 | |
Welcome to Round #3 of "Ask Coach Hörst"...where I will answer 6 listener questions that I believe you will find interesting and informative. This episode covers wide-ranging topics from the pros/cons of calorie restriction vs. surplus, the possible unintended consequences of a vegan diet or vegetarianism, training while on business trips, training during long spells between climbing trips, the type of training program that's best for an intermediate (~5.10 climber), and more! 4:58 - Question #1 - How can I train effectively given my business travel (as a pilot) that typically lasts 8 days...followed by 6 days at home? 12:28 - Question #2 - My girlfriend and I are avid climbers of 5.10 ability...and we're wondering what the best training program is for us to progress into the higher grades? 17:54 - Question #3 - My outdoor "climbing season" comes down to a 2-week trips in the summer and winter. How can I best train as an indoor climber during the 5+ months between trips? Also, given my schedule, how often should I train the anaerobic lactic energy system? 24:18 - Question #4 - I seem to have reached a plateau at my current ability level of V8 boulders and 5.12d (sport climbs)...and I'm wonder which of your books would be best to guide me in training effectively for further improvement? 28:44 - Question #5 - I struggle with undercling and side-pull moves on steep terrain. How can I train to improve on these moves? 34:09 - Question #6 - I have a 3-part question relating to diet and specifically my vegan diet.
NOTE: If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing -- include your first name, location, climbing ability level, and years climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 14 Oct 2020 | Episode #53: Effective Projecting...and the Secret for Sending! | 00:57:43 | |
In this episode, Eric welcomes you into the Training Café...which is his live coaching video stream broadcast every other Monday. So in this podcast, you'll hear Eric's TC broadcast which includes in-depth coaching on effective projecting...and reveals the "secret" to sending! Eric also answers a slew of viewer questions on training, injury, nutrition, and more. You can participate in future Training Café livestreams--and submit a training question to Eric!--by tuning into this video simulcast on the Training For Climbing Facebook and T4C YouTube channels...typically broadcast at Noon Eastern Time (900 Pacific & 1600 GMT) on every other Monday. Podcast Rundown 1:15 - Intro to episode #53...and what Training Cafe is all about. 7:20 - Beginning of Training Cafe....with our virtual toast in the spirit of climbing! 7:35 - SHOUT OUT to Drew Ruana, perhaps the world's top boulderer this year, for sending his 10th V15 or harder boulder! Three of these were V16 ascents--watch the send videos here. 9:38 - Text message from Drew about keeping his fingers and skin healthy. Learn Drew's secret here. 12:00 - MAIN TOPIC: Effective Projecting...and Trusting the Process. 13:15 - The 6 steps/phases of effective projecting... 14:00 - Step 1: Picking the right project for you in the context of your current situation. Do you want/need to send it quickly? 15:15 - What type of project routes will make you a better climber? 16:40 - Step 2: Chuck down the route or boulder problem into 2 to 5 logical parts. 17:00 - Example: My project route "Warlords" at Mt. Charleston...and how I approached this route. 21:23 - Step 3: Work the route bolt to bolt to size up the sequences...then get to work on the crux chunk. 23:58 - Step 4: Identify the FEELING of doing the hardest moves the right way. CRITICAL! 24:30 - Learn the SECRET to succeeding on the crux sequence... 27:47 -Step 5: Begin linking chunks...from the crux chunk to the top, before beginning redpoint attempts from the ground. 29:06 - Step 6: Begin redpoint attempts from the ground.< 30:00 - The "surprise send" phenomenon! 31:10 - Trust the process and let the send happen organically. 32:17 - What to do if your project becomes stressful...due to lack of progress over several days of work? 33:20 - Learn about my "10-4 Rule" of projecting... 34:00 - YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! 34:28 - Question: What time of day does your body most synthesis collagen...in tendons and ligaments? When to train/rehab tendons....and consume collagen to support the process? 36:20 -The value of doing 2 or 3 shorter workouts per day rather than 1 long session. 38:00 - Learn about the tendon training process cycle here. 39:40 - How best to engage in ARC training for climbing-specific endurance?/p> 43:20 - How to train when I don't have access to a climbing gym? 45:00 - How much rest should I take between dedicated training blocks? 47:47 - Learn the benefits of a DELOAD week! 48:40 - Is there value in using fascial release tools? 51:00 - Comments about overuse injuries in climbers... 52:23 - What are some off-the-wall exercises and stretching that I can do, especially on rest days? 54:30 - When will PhysiVantage be available in Europe? PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||
| 04 Mar 2021 | Episode #59 - Back to Basics: Time-Tested Training That Works! | 01:07:49 | |
There are myriad exercises, activities, and sports that climbers engage in with the belief it will elevate climbing performance. For the typical climber, however, most of the climbing-performance benefits come from just a handful of exercises and activities that they do. Consider, dear listener, everything you do in the name of training--how beneficial is each activity and exercise? In this podcast, Eric discusses common training tangents, traps, and energy sinks, and he details 10 time-tested exercises/activities that are central to effective training for climbing. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on your FIRST PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. RETURNING CUSTOMERS: Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code FRIENDS15 Podcast Rundown 4:10 - Opening comments about effective training for climbing. 4:45 - Importance of keeping an open mind about your training. 6:42 - Mention of the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers -- go back and listen to podcast #37! 9:00 - Intro to 4 training tangents, traps, and energy sinks that rob you of time and energy...and dilute the quality of your training for climbing. 10:06 - You CAN achieve greater things than you can imagine today! 10:40 - #1 Training Tangent: Focusing on exercises and activities that create fatigue and consume time, but do little to really enhance climbing performance. 15:44 - #2 Training Tangent: Blindly copying another climber's workouts and training program. 17:22 - #3 Training Tangents: The shiny, new object at the gym...that is fun, engaging, and possibly high-tech...that consumes a lot of your focus and time but provides small (or negligible) performance gains given. 20:30 - Comments about the benefits of Auto-Regulation. Listen to podcast #20 for more coverage of Auto-Regulation. 25:00 - Comments on Blood Flow Restriction training - learn more in podcast #40. 28:00 - #4 Training Tangent: Constantly changing up your training...never sticking to a program for a month to be able to accurately gauge the results. 30:30 - Eric coaches you to "Plan your workout, then work your plan!" 32:45 - Please check out our podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save $10 or 15% on your online order! PhysiVantage is used by many of America's top boulders, sport climbers, and big wall crushers! 35:08 - 10 time-tested, back-to-basics exercises and activities that are central to effective training for climbing. 37:24 - #1: Climb frequently! 39:30 - #2: Hangboard train! 44:15 - #3: Weighted Pull-ups 45:35 - #4: Frenchies 48:08 - #5: Bouldering and System Wall climbing 50:15 - #6: Route climbing 54:34 - #7: Bouldering 4x4 Intervals 57:42 - #8: Campus board training 58:40 - #9: Running (in moderate doses) 1:01:21 - #10: Flexibility training (lower-body focus for hip turnout) 1:05:22 - Final thoughts.... PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage performance Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||
| 03 Feb 2021 | Episode #58 - The Secrets to Finger Strength...When It Counts! | 01:05:08 | |
Chances are...your fingers are already strong enough to climb the next grade. In this podcast, Eric details five ways to increase your apparent finger strength on the rock...and climb one grade harder! Whether you're an intermediate, advanced, or pro-level climber, you'll surely find a few of Eric's concepts and tips to be empowering...and just maybe provide you with the "secret" to breaking a plateau or sending your project. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Podcast Rundown 6:09 - Gaining more finger strength without training your fingers! Huh? Listen and learn some secrets to becoming a more efficient and effective climber. 11:00 - Eric's comments about finger force testing. 15:30 - Five secrets to stronger fingers on the rock. Non-finger training that will make your fingers stronger for climbing! 16:12 - #1: Learn the importance of climbing economy...and why a weaker climber can sometimes outperform a stronger climber. 21:33 - #2: Training hip flexibility increases finger strength-endurance, especially on near-vertical boulders and routes. 31:30 - #3: Stronger shoulders make fingers stronger. Learn why. 38:08 - #4: Stronger wrist flexors and wrist extensors will improve your sloper and crimp grips, respectively. 45:40 - #5: Increasing core strength and core strength-endurance make small hand and foot holds "bigger" and more solid...and increase apparent finger strength and endurance. But to obtain this effect, you must train comprehensive core strength with a wide range of exercises. 58:12 - Summary and final tips to improve your climbing. PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage performance Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||
| 11 May 2018 | Episode #24: Energy System Training (part 3) - Anaerobic Capacity Training | 01:00:03 | |
This is the third in a four-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts for improved training results and climbing performance. This episode is the conclusion of podcast #23 (on training the Anaerobic Lactic energy system) and it details specific training protocols for improving short, intermediate, and long power endurance. Combined, episodes #23 and #24 make for a super-sized (2+ hours!) brain-bursting, muscle-pumping training for climbing podcast! Podcast Rundown 0:20 – Intro about how this podcast is actually the second half of Podcast #23—combined they make for 2 hours of instruction on energy system training. A super-sized podcast! 1:50 – The energy system focus remains how to best train up the anaerobic lactic energy system that “bridges” the ATP-CP and aerobic energy systems. 3:25 – A quick recap of the first part (episode #23) on how the anaerobic lactic system works...and the specific adaptations that we’re after. 8:00 – Important: How occlusion of forearm blood flow (during gripping of holds) accelerates intracellular acidification and hastens drop in power output. Thus, the importance of keeping blood flowing to “flush” metabolic byproducts and sustain some degree of aerobic power contribution. 9:25 – Rate of adaptation to training: Anaerobic lactic specific adaptations are relatively fast, whereas many aerobic system specific adaptations take months and years. A quick intro to the aerobic energy system adaptations that enable long-term training adaptations and improved endurance/capacity. 12:30 – A reminder of difference between “anaerobic power” and “anaerobic capacity”…and how you can test yourself for each. 21:00 – A quick disclosure on the variability, flaws, limitations, and validity of many current climbing tests of common performance indicators, such as finger flexor strength, lactic endurance, and aerobic power. 23:55 – Anaerobic capacity training (lactic system specific) protocols—I break into three categories: 1. “high-end” or “short” power endurance (peak power output for 15 to 30 seconds), 2. “intermediate power endurance” (sustained near-maximal power output for 40 to 60 seconds), and 3. “transitional” or “long power endurance” (1 to 3 minutes of moderately-high power climbing/exercise). 25:55 – The importance of the energy system “crossover” that occurs between 45 and 90 seconds, depending on the strength of your anaerobic lactic and aerobic energy systems. For most climbers, this anaerobic-aerobic crossover is likely between 60 and 75 seconds of sustained, high-intensity (no rest, no shake) climbing. 28:45 – How to train “high-end power endurance”. Brief all-out bursts of exercise/climbing with a work-to-rest ratio of at least 1:10. For example, 15 to 30 seconds of very hard exercise/climbing (9.5 to 10 out of 10 effort) followed by 3 to 5 minutes of rest. 33:26 – How to train “intermediate power endurance” for improved mid-range anaerobic capacity (up to one minute of sustained, no-rest, no-shake climbing). The goal is high-intensity exercise/climbing sustained for 40 to 60 seconds at a perceived exertion/intensity of 9 to 9.5 out of 10. This class of anaerobic training is commonly missing from climbers’ training programs—don’t let that be you! 41:50 – Train “long power endurance” (1 to 3 minute anaerobic capacity) with up to 3 minutes of sustained moderately high-intensity exercise or climbing. Perceived exertion should be 8.5 to 9 out of 10 with significant forearm muscle pump/pain and breathlessness. This is classic lactic “tolerance” training—it builds both mental and physical tolerance to the fatiguing byproducts of long-duration power climbing. 45:30 – A word of caution about training “long power endurance” too often or at too high a volume. Especially in-season, this type of training can lead to diminished performance among route climbers who climb outside for performance a few days per week. Overtraining syndrome warning: If you sense you’re getting weaker or losing power, despite immense training/climbing effort, this may be why. 52:35 – Final tips for applying this powerful information. Learn how to prioritize and schedule your training. And always remember that “the best training program for you is one you’re not doing!” 57:20 – Listen to this and the previous podcast several times—there’s a lot of powerful information to assimilate and learn to apply correctly. 58:05 – PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW of this podcast on iTunes…and SHARE with your friends! 58:40 - Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to sign-up for a monthly training newsletter and to get a FREE training-for-climbing eBOOK! Leave a question for the upcoming “Ask Coach Horst” podcast at my Twitter account @Train4Climbing PLEASE SHARE THIS PODCAST with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. Thank you!
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy | |||
| 26 Mar 2018 | Episode #21: Energy System Training (part 1) - Alactic Power Training | 01:16:09 | |
This is the first of a two-part FIVE-part in-depth look at energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts to obtain better results in the long-term. This is a cutting-edge topic with huge potential, especially for advanced and elite climbers, to open up new levels of strength, power, and endurance. By thoughtfully and accurately applying my energy system training guidelines, you will better target individual energy systems to improve cellular signaling and reduce inferring/conflicting signals. This episode focuses on the alactic system that fuels high-powers and the important--and novel--adaptations in the muscle cells, extracellular matrix & fascia, nervous system, tendons, and cardiovascular system. It’s a rich topic that will take a couple podcasts (or more) to unwind and learn to effectively apply to climbing. Let's get started! Podcast Rundown 0:20 – Introduction 1:15 – Mission statement of the Training For Climbing Podcast 7:40 – Request for you to SHARE this podcast! 8:20 – Introducing the “Ask Coach Hörst” special edition of the Training For Climbing podcast…coming in April. Submit your question on Twitter @Train4climbing and please include your name, home town, and years climbing. 9:55 – Overview of the 3 energy system: Anaerobic Alactic (ATP-CP), Anaerobic Lactic, Aerobic 14:20 – Anaerobic Alactic (ATP-CP) System 16:00 – How the Aerobic energy system supports the Alactic system 17:52 – Anaerobic Lactic System (Anaerobic Glycolysis) 20:37 – Aerobic/Oxidative energy system 21:50 – Bertuzzi study of climbers’ relative energy system utilization 24:02 - A deep drill down look at the Alactic energy system 26:30 – Biochemistry of the ATP-CP system. The Löhmann Reaction. 33:22 – Is consuming supplemental creatine (to load intracellular CP) a good thing for climbers? 40:50 – Adaptations of Alactic Training 45:00 – 1. Neural adaptations – What are they? How do you trigger then with training? 48:20 – 2. Architectural adaptations - What are they? How do you properly train them? 54:25 – 3. Tendon remodeling – What is it…and how it can increase force output and power? 59:15 – Alactic system exercise training protocols. How often should you specifically train this energy system? 1:01:00 – Four climbing-specific exercises that can produce Alactic system-related adaptations and increase muscle efficiency. 1:09:22 – Learn the 1st Rule of Eric’s “Train Club” 1:10:42 – Suggested work-to-rest ratio for Alactic training 1:14:00 – Programming alactic-focused workouts 1:15:20 – Final send off - PLEASE SHARE the T4C Podcast!
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Music by: Misty Murphy | |||
| 06 Jan 2023 | #83: Training (and Life) “Edits” to Climb Better & Achieve Greatly | 00:51:43 | |
If you're passionate about improving your training, elevating your climbing, and advancing in other important life areas....then this is a must-listen podcast! With the perspective of a new year's renewal, Coach Hörst explains the power of making occasional training, climbing, and life “edits” in the quest for peak performance and a deeper sense of joy and happiness. RUNDOWN 0:15 - Welcome 0:48 - The importance of "editing" -- in writing...and in training, climbing, and living effectively! 4:33 - You are the author of your training (and life), so it's essential that you act with intention! 6:43 - #1: EDIT your daily and weekly schedule to maximize time spent engaged in important activities. 14:13 - #2: EDIT your training to provide optimal results, not maximal fatigue. 24:22 - #3: EDIT your thoughts and self-talk to create a state of mind for massive action towards your goals. 33:03 - #4: EDIT your diet and nutrition to support energy, focus, strength gains, recovery ability, and injury resistance. 41:28 - #5: EDIT your stress levels. Strive to reduce (or eliminate) "bad stress", while seeking out and embracing sources of good stress. 48:48 - A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! 49:28 - Closing comments on the power of climbing. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 10 Jul 2023 | #89. How Often Should You "Rest Day" While on a Climbing Roadtrip | 00:32:21 | |
For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing areas is a wonderful skill- and experience-building endeavor...and it will likely enrich your life and expand your brain in a number of other ways as well. In terms of climbing performance, however, one of the most challenging matters while on a roadtrip is managing fatigue. Specifically, you will awake each day and be faced with the decision of whether you should climb...or take a rest day. In this T4C episode, I'll detail the primary factors you should consider in determining how often you should take a rest day from climbing. The optimal climbing-to-rest-day ratio can differ greatly depending on your climbing goals, training history, age, and recovery ability, among other things. RUNDOWN 0:14 - Welcome message. 1:30 - The value of climbing roadtrips 2:36 - Intro to optimizing your climbing day to rest day ratio while on a roadtrip. The 4 primary factors that come into play in getting it right. 6:12 - Factor #1: The length of your climbing trip. 13:28 - Factor #2: The type of climbing you're engaging in. 17:34 - Factor #3: Your age and recovery ability. 25:50 - Factor #4: The weather! 30:10 - Eric's wrap-up and closing comments. Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 30:50 - Horst Out! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by The Police (Remixes) Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 16 Sep 2017 | Episode #16: The Future of Training for Climbing | 01:10:18 | |
Eric describes in detail his vision for improving the effectiveness of training programs via advances in training & testing technologies, nuanced program design, and genetic testing and epigenetics. This is a fascinating podcast rich with clues for improving the effectiveness of your training, reducing injury risk, pursuing your genetic potential, and for living longer and prospering in the vertical world. If you enjoy this podcast, please share it with your climbing friends via social media....and consider writing a review in iTunes. You can support this podcast by purchasing a book(s) at www.TrainingForClimbing.com. Thank you, and enjoy! Podcast Rundown 2:00 – Intro to the future of training for climbing. 5:00- Importance of climbing research and veteran coaching in pointing the way forward. 8:35 – Comments on Adam Ondra’s ascent of “Silence”…the world’s first 5.15d/9c. 18:00 – Overview of past training innovations…campus board, hangboard, etc. 20:35 – Recent innovations…the Treadwall, Moon Board, Lattice Wall, Zlagboard, etc. 24:40 – The need to establish standardize testing of climbing-specific strength, power, endurance….to determine the relative strength of the three bio-energetic systems. 25:10 – My vision for the future of training for climbing—broken into three parts: 29:18 - #1: Stop guessing; start testing. The importance of accurate physiological assessment. Leveraging "big data". 47:05 - #2: Smarter program design--short-term nuance with a good long-term aim. Importance of understanding hormetic stress and cellular signaling to getting the most out of your training investment. 57:00 – #3: Genetic testing and training program design with epigenetics in mind. 1:07:25 – Closing thoughts. Music: Misty Murphy
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| 07 Mar 2022 | Episode #73 - 40 Ways to Improve Your Training & Climbing - Part 1 | 00:57:05 | |
In this two-part series, Coach Hörst provides tips for an effective, holistic approach to steady, long-term improvement. No matter your ability level or weakness (physical, technical, or mental), this podcast will arm you with tips and techniques to put to work, beginning today. Take your game to the next level with tips from episodes 73 and 74! RUNDOWN 0:35 - Eric's Welcome! 2:40 - Recap of Episodes 71 & 72, and how that sets up this Episode 73. 5:00 - Sponsor ad read - please support our sponsors, visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 7:45 - Intro to 40 Ways to Improve Your Training & Climbing 9:00 - The importance of making small course corrections...which can make massive changes in your climbing in the long-term. 9:50 - PART 1 - 10 Tips for Beginner-level Climbers (0 to 2 years of regular climbing) 10:30 - KISS 12:20 - The "3- or 4-day-per-week Rule" 14:00 - Importance of Bouldering and Route climbing 15:15 - Score your sessions by moves (or feet) climbed, not absolute difficult climbed. 16:55 - The 80/20 Split 18:10 - The value of some strength training exercises 21:20 - Don't overlook flexibility training 23:40 - "Read" (visualize) every boulder or route before you begin to climb 25:20 - Learn the difference between Good Pain and Bad Pain 27:20 - Consider your BMI....and what it means for your health and climbing experience 29:45 PART 2 - 10 Tips for Intermediate Climbers (~2 to 5 years experience) 30:45 - Don't get injured training...as you begin to engage in more advanced, targeted training techniques! 32:22 - Don't Specialized...in just one form of climbing 34:40 - Do some outdoor climbing! 36:24 - Stick with the "80/20 split" 38:00 - Commit to understanding and learning to manage your fears. 40:50 - Learn to fall trying (in safe situations) 42:07 - Strive to increase awareness of your changing physical and emotional states...and learn countermeasures to optimize these states for performance. 44:30 - Practice climbing more efficiently--reclimbing boulders and routes on a quest for higher economy and elite movement skills. 47:00 - Be okay with failure--it's part of the process of learning and advancing as a climber. (If you're not failing sometimes, you're not advancing.) 53:24 - Intro to the new "The Struggle" podcast with Ryan Devlin - Episode #1 featuring Emily Harrington PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 01 May 2017 | Episode #12: The "10-4 Rule" for Effective Projecting & Steady Improvement | 00:30:55 | |
A question I'm often asked is how much time—or attempts—should you put into a project route, before taking a break and working on other climbs. My short answer (with a few caveats) is that it’s best not to get bogged down by long-haul projects—you will improve as a climber faster by sending lots of routes just below your limit, rather than hanging all over (and repeatedly falling off) a single project route that's beyond your limit. In this podcast I'll detail my "10-4 Rule" of projecting, which gives guidelines and solid reasoning to keep your projecting efforts brief...to around 10 attempts over 4 days. (Personally, I halve these amounts and, thus, limit myself to a total of about five attempts over two days.) Podcast rundown: 00:55 - Introduction: How much time should you spend projecting limit routes? 3:12 - The "10-4 Rule" for effective projecting and steady improvement 12:55 - Caveats: When to break the 10-4 Rule 16:20 - Bonus: The "80-20" guideline for outdoor climbing time 20:48 - Ask Eric! 21:22 - Can someone who gets into climbing as a young adult progress to climb at a world-class level? 27:00 - "Last minute" training advice for a slightly out-of-shape route climber going on a climbing trip in one week? 29:50 - Final remarks. | |||
| 10 Aug 2017 | Episode #15: Reflections on a Roadtrip & 5 Training/Performance Myths BUSTED! | 01:00:57 | |
In this podcast, Eric Hörst presents many practical tips for climbing your best on a roadtrip…and for training in safe and effective ways, by steering clear of popular training myths and dogma. Rundown 1:10 – Reflections on a roadtrip—tips for performing your best while on an extended climbing trip. 3:20 – Learn about the “golden period” of a roadtrip—when you are typically the strongest and most powerful…and be able to climb the hardest. 4:10 – Why the best-trained climbers actually get weaker (and lose high-end power) during a multi-week climbing trip. 7:45 – What’s the best ratio of climbing days vs. rest days, while on a long climbing trip. 9:55 – Importance of diet and sleep for optimizing recovery and performing your best on a roadtrip. 13:38 – Upon returning for a long roadtrip, how long should you break from serious training & climbing? 15:20 – Eric comments on Adam Ondra’s mega-project…perhaps the world’s first 5.15d. 18:08 – Introduction to the “Training & Performance Mythbusters” segment. 20:38 – Myth #1: Hangboard training is only appropriate for advanced climbers. (Learn the truth….that hangboard training is useful—for developing finger strength AND building stronger tendons & pulleys—for all climbers other than beginner and recently injured climbers.) 29:55 – Myth #2: Campus training, as commonly shown in social media feeds, is something you should be doing…because campus training is the best method of developing a stronger, more powerful upper-body for climbing. (Learn the truth….and how “pre-hab” training is essential before adding campus training to your program.) 36:45 – Myth #3: The widely publicized “10,000-hour Rule” of practice applies to climbing….therefore you must climb as often and as much as possible so as to accumulate the 10,000 hours needed to become elite. (The truth? Applied to climbing…this rule is bogus! With good coaching, smart training, a high-level of motivation/dedication, and favorable genetics, you can become a high-level climber in far fewer than 10,000 hours of practice.) 40:02 – Myth #4: Body building and other “fitness” magazine (and web sites) are a good source of effective training techniques that you can apply to climbing. (Hear Eric bust this myth!) 43:45 – What about novel bodybuilding techniques, such as the recently popularized Blood Flow Restriction training? It’s been “proven” effective by research, right? 47:12 – Learn why it’s best for a climber NOT to have large, bulging biceps….or excessive muscles elsewhere. 48:40 – Myth #5: The latest diet fad (whatever it may be) is likely useful to a serious climber. (Eric will address the currently popular ketogenic/LCHF diet...) 53:00 – How about popular dietary supplements, such as fish oil, a multi-vitamin, creatine monohydrate, and such? 57:40 – Episode wrap up Music by: Misty Murphy | |||
| 20 Apr 2020 | Episode #47 - Training Café: Energy System Training and more! | 00:47:58 | |
These are crazy times we're living through with the COVID crisis. Most of us are self-quarantined...left to train on a home wall, hangboard, and whatever else we can kludge together. My personal initiative during the growing stay-at-home spell is doing twice-weekly livestream videos that I call "Training Café". You can view these shows--and submit training questions--during the livestream shows simulcast on the Training For Climbing Facebook and T4C YouTube channels. In this podcast, however, I wanted to share with part of Training Café #6...which includes several training Q & As and a brief dive into using Energy System Training concepts to improve the effectiveness of your training. Podcast Rundown 0:15 - Opening comments about the ongoing COVID crisis...and stay-at-home situation we most face. 3:15 - Introducing my Make April Great Again initiative...Training Café! 7:25 - Audio begis from Training Café #6. 10:00 - SHOUT OUT...to Udo Neumann, the legendary Germany coach and movement expert. Check out his masterclass videos on climbing movement, analysis, and technique training. Watch trailors of "Ideas to Improve Your Climbing" and "Climbing Technique". 12:00 - Eric answers Training Cafe viewer questions. 12:18 - Question #1: Should I go all the way down when pull-up training? 18:16 - Question #2: How much hangboard training is too much? 21:00 - Question #3: Should I deadlift as part of my training for climbing? 24:45 - Question #4: In doing max hangs, as part of an alactic system workout, is it okay to do another different alactic exercise during the rest period between max hangs? 30:30 - MAIN TOPIC: Energy System Training - A brief review of the three bioenergetic systems that power our climbing...and how you can best training each system for optimal adaptations and gains. Listen to previous T4C podcasts #23 to #28 for a deep dive into the science and application of Energy System Training.
Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing | |||
| 17 Sep 2024 | #105: Stretching Strategies and Injury Trends | 00:15:31 | |
This 15-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics:
This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast. T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music Remix of the Police Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 11 Jun 2024 | #100: The 10 Secrets to Climbing Harder! | 01:04:55 | |
To celebrate the 100th episode of the T4C podcast, I wanted to serve up a powerful, comprehensive, yet easily digestible and actionable list of things you can do today to break through a performance plateau...and begin a journey towards being the best climber you can be! No matter your current experience or level of climbing, I guarantee that you will find this episode to be a tour de force of things you can do to accelerate your rate of improvement...and increase your confidence, joy, and experience while climbing. Therefore, a more accurate title of this podcast might be..."The 10 secrets to accelerating improvement and climbing your very best!" I've got a lot of territory to cover in the next hour, so let's get started! Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. | |||
| 04 Sep 2020 | Episode #52 - 10 Tips for Pursuing Maximum Climbing Performance | 00:42:08 | |
Legendary climber, Wolfgang Gullich, famously said that "the brain is the most important muscle for climbing". Sure, strong fingers are important--but there are many strong-fingered climbers who never reach their potential. The pursuit of better climbing is ultimately an inward journey to gain mastery of the mind. Developing stronger "mental muscle" will enable you to achieve beyond your current imagination. Like wielding a sword with empty hands, your mind will lead your body to new summits. In this episode, I share with you 10 powerful concepts that can potentially re-invent how you think and what you will achieve. This material is more powerful than any hangboard training program you can do--the quotes and tips I present hold get to the heart and soul of taking your climbing (and life) to a higher level. RUNDOWN 0:30 - Introduction to this episode on how 7:13 - #1: What sets great climbers apart from others is not their physical prowess (amazing as it may be), but their brains. 10:18 - #2: The brain is a human being’s most dynamic organ—it is shaped by the sum of our experiences, both what we do and what we have done. 13:28 - #3: You are not what you climb; you are how you climb. For you, you can substitute your brain. 15:43 - #4: To become better than we are, we must first become aware of what we are. 18:39 - #5: Achieving excellence is not just a matter of exploiting your strengths to the fullest, but also demands that you ruthlessly pursue improvement in the things that constrain your performance. 21:00 - #6: The thoughts you generate and dwell on are powerful. You can literally think yourself to success or failure. 24:54 - #7: You will accomplish in proportion to your ability to set compelling goals and overcome adversity. 29:12 - #8: Self-discipline and commitment are the great equalizers! 32:00 - #9: Perhaps nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. Becoming a maximum climber, then, requires that you learn to understand and manage your fears. 35:40 - #10: Surround yourself with positive people and images, while avoiding the impossibility thinkers and complains of the world. PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 | |||