Rabies is a virus that may affect the brain and spinal cord of all mammals, including dogs, cats and humans. Though preventable, there is good reason that the word “rabies” evokes fear in people. The disease has been reported in every state except Hawaii, and everywhere throughout the world except for Australia and Antarctica. Annually, rabies causes the deaths of more than 50,000 humans and millions of animals worldwide. Once symptoms appear, the disease results in fatality.

How Would My Dog Get Rabies?

Since animals who have rabies secrete large amounts of virus in their saliva, the disease is primarily passed to dogsthrough a bite from an infected animal. It can also be transmitted through a scratch or when infected saliva makes contact with mucous membranes or an open, fresh wound. The risk runs highest if your dog-or any pet-is exposed to wild animals. The most common carriers of the rabies virus in this country are bats, raccoons, skunks and foxes. In the United States, rabies is reported in cats more than in any domestic species. If there are also cats in your household, it’s important to make sure they are vaccinated and kept indoors.

What Are the General Symptoms of Rabies?

Initially, a dog who’s become infected may show extreme behavioral changes such as restlessness or apprehension, both of which may be compounded by aggression. Friendly dogs may become irritable, while normally excitable animals may become more docile. A dog may bite or snap at any form of stimulus, attacking other animals, humans and even inanimate objects. They may constantly lick, bite and chew at the site where they were bitten. A fever may also be present at this stage.

As the virus progresses, an infected dog may become hypersensitive to touch, light and sound. They may eat unusual things and hide in dark places. Paralysis of the throat and jaw muscles may follow, resulting in the well-known symptom of foaming at the mouth. Disorientation, incoordination and staggering may occur, caused by paralysis of the hind legs. Other classic signs of rabies include loss of appetite, weakness, seizuresand sudden death.

This episode is sponsored by Rover.com. Receive $25.00 off your first booking. Visit rover.com/vettalk and use promo code vettalk during checkout! 

Several years ago, local Boston resident Ryan DeRoche was in a mountain bike accident that resulted in a severe spinal cord injury and left him with little to no use of his arms and legs. His life changed in an instant. But through Massachusetts-based National Education for Assistance Dog Services (NEADS), Ryan was matched with service dog Oliver, who just completed his training at a Boston-based jail. The two have been inseparable ever since. Oliver is specially trained to help Ryan be independent – assisting him with daily tasks like opening and closing doors and getting things in hard-to-reach places. Emotionally, he also has a way of knowing if Ryan is sad, angry or frustrated, and knows exactly how to cheer up his human buddy with attention and kisses. Oliver changed Ryan’s life, and he couldn’t imagine a life without his furry sidekick.

Ryan and Oliver are working with Merck Animal Health and NEADs to highlight the critical role service dogs play and the importance of keeping them healthy. The campaign – called  BRAVECTO™ Cares – focuses on the health of service dogs, including protecting them from fleas and ticks, and underscores the importance of keeping family pets protected, as well.

Fleas and ticks can carry illnesses, such as Lyme disease, to our pets and our families, and CDC-reported illnesses in humans have tripled in recent years. If service dogs are not at optimal health, they will not be at ideal performance and can potentially put their handler at risk.

For more information, you can also visit the website www.protectfromfleasandticks.com. 

 What is Canine Influenza? with Dr. Susan McMillan, owner of Vet to Pet Mobile Veterinary Service in Burlington, Vermont.

As travel season ramps up, you need to know and understand canine influenza and how to protect your pooch.

Susan, Welcome to Bark & Wag’s 15 minute Vet Talk – It is a pleasure to have you on the podcast today. Please tell us a little bit about yourself and your practice before we begin on the topic of What is Canine Influenza?

Canine influenza (CI, or dog flu) in the U.S. is caused by the canine influenza virus (CIV), an influenza A virus. It  is highly contagious and easily spread from infected dogs to other dogs through direct contact, nasal secretions (through barking, coughing or sneezing), contaminated objects (kennel surfaces, food and water bowls, collars and leashes), and by people moving between infected and uninfected dogs. Dogs of any breed, age, sex or health status are at risk of infection when exposed to the virus. In early 2016, a group of cats in an Indiana shelter ​were infected with H3N2 canine influenza (passed to them by infected dogs), and the findings suggested that cat-to-cat transmission was possible. 

Unlike seasonal flu in people, canine influenza can occur year round. So far, there is no evidence that canine influenza infects people. However, it does appear that at least some strains of the disease can infect cats. 

Canine influenza symptoms and diagnosis 

CIV infection resembles canine infectious tracheobronchitis ("kennel cough"). The illness may be mild or severe, and infected dogs develop a persistent cough and may develop a thick nasal discharge and fever (often 104-105oF). Other signs can include lethargy, eye discharge, and reduced appetite. Some dogs may not show signs of illness, but can shed the virus and infect other dogs. 

Most dogs recover within 2-3 weeks. However, secondary bacterial infections can develop, and may cause more severe illness and pneumonia. Anyone with concerns about their pet’s health, or whose pet is showing signs of canine influenza, should contact their veterinarian.

CIV can be diagnosed early in the illness (less than 3 days) by testing a nasal or throat swab. The most accurate test for CIV infection is a blood test that requires a sample taken during the first week of illness, followed by a second sample 10-14 days later.

Cats infected with H3N2 canine influenza show symptoms of upper respiratory illness, including a runny nose, congestion, malaise, lip smacking, and excessive salivation. 

Transmission and prevention of canine influenza

Dogs are most contagious during the two- to four-day incubation period for the virus, when they are infected and shedding the virus in their nasal secretions but are not showing signs of illness. Almost all dogs exposed to CIV will become infected, and the majority (80%) of infected dogs develop flu-like illness. The mortality (death) rate is low (less than 10%).

The spread of CIV can be reduced by isolating ill dogs as well as those who are known to have been exposed to an infected dog and those showing signs of respiratory illness. Good hygiene and sanitation, including hand washing and thorough cleaning of shared items and kennels, also reduce the spread of CIV. Influenza viruses do not usually survive in the environment beyond 48 hours and are inactivated or killed by commonly used disinfectants.

There are vaccines against the H3N8 strain of canine influenza, which was first discovered in 2004 and until 2015 was the only strain of canine influenza found in the United States. However, a 2015 outbreak of canine influenza in Chicago was traced to the H3N2 strain – the  first reporting of this strain outside of Asia – and it is not known whether the H3N8 vaccine provides any protection against this strain. Used against H3N8, the vaccines may not completely prevent infection, but appear to reduce the severity and duration of the illness, as well as the length of time when an infected dog may shed the virus in its respiratory secretions and the amount of virus shed – making them less contagious to other dogs.

In November 2015, the U.S. Department of Agriculture granted a conditional license to Zoetis to market the first commercially available H3N2 canine influenza vaccine​. Later that month, Merck Animal Health announced the availability​ of an H3N2 canine influenza vaccine, also conditionally licensed by USDA. None of the currently available H3N2 canine influenza vaccines are approved for use in cats. 

The CIV vaccination is a "lifestyle" vaccination, recommended for dogs at risk of exposure due to their increased exposure to other dogs – such as boarding, attending social events with dogs present, and visiting dog parks. 

Cindy Myers Ambassador to Animals, Humans and Spirit

I’ve always been a good listener. However, twenty years ago, I would have found it hilarious if you told me that I’d be working as an intuitive energy healer while living on an alpaca farm! But, here I am with a herd of 24 alpacas, 3 dogs and 3 cats working as a Medical Intuitive! I believe that the sum of our life experiences can lead us to our true calling in life. There are many paths to finding our way to our authentic selves.

It took many years, multiple and diverse career paths, and tough life challenges to finding my true calling. The life lessons were invaluable that led me to this meaningful life. I learned about frequencies and Radars while working as an Engineer for the Navy and now I am a Radar! I learned all about stress and how harmful it is to our body, mind and spirit while being my mom’s caregiver through her final years. And there was an amazing gift I created out of the house fire I experienced due to an arsonist. Losing my belongings led me to discovering myself. And I found the courage to embrace and pursue my calling of intuitive energy work. It is an honor and humbles me to do this work for people and their animals.

I love sharing my intuitive abilities with both animals and humans. I look forward to helping you restore your energy balance so you can live an abundantly joy filled life!

https://yourenergyhealer.com/

Visit Sarah's pet portraits on Facebook

Email - weesarah76@hotmail.com

Many pets are prone to ear infections — especially those with long, floppy ears. Because of this, many dog owners are familiar with the symptoms of dog ear infections. Common symptoms of dog ear infections include:

• Excessive itching and scratching at the ear
• Head shaking, particularly when it looks awkward or unnatural
• Swelling and redness around the ear canal
• Scratching at the affected ear
• Unusual discharge and odor
• Scabs or crusted over the skin in the ears

The ear canal of dogs is much more vertical than the human ear canal. This L-shape makes it more susceptible to holding fluid and disruption from bacteria, yeast, or ear mites — all of which are causes of infection. There are three types of dog ear infections:

• Otitis externa, the most common one that typically affects the outer portion of the ear
• Otitis media, affecting the middle part of the ear canal and usually a secondary development in up to 50% of chronic otitis externa cases
• Otitis interna, referring to inner ear infections that can result in neurological damage

Dog ear infections can be a serious condition, which may result in hearing loss or facial paralysis. These serious complications make it imperative to prevent infection and seek treatment as soon as symptoms arise in your pet.

Caring for and managing dog ear infections involve cleaning, medication, and aftercare.

Remedies and Treatments for Dog Ear Infections

Up to 16.5% of dogs will experience at least otitis externa, and complications may involve further development into more serious dog ear infections. Fortunately, there are straightforward steps you can take to alleviate symptoms and minimize the severity of such infections in your dog.

Immediate Care

Once your vet has determined the severity and type of ear infection your dog is experiencing, they will clean your dog’s ear thoroughly to remove debris, discharge, and ear wax. They may use a medicated ear cleaner or apply a topical medication.

In more severe cases, the vet may prescribe anti-inflammatory medications or oral antibiotics for your pet.

Long-Term Care

Your vet will likely prescribe a topical medication to your dog. It is important for you to carefully follow your veterinarian’s exact directives and instructions. You may make the application process easier by:

• Keeping your dog relaxed with affection and treats.
• Relying on a partner's help to hold and comfort your pet while you apply medication to the ear.
• Ensuring that you place the applicator safely outside of the dog’s ear when dispensing medication.
• Gently massaging the medication into the affected area.

• Remedies and Treatments for Dog Ear Infections 
• When to See a Vet

Silver Honey Rapid Ear Care line is the first that uses medical-grade Manuka honey and MicroSilver BG™ so dog owners can treat ear infections naturally and without antibiotics in 10 days or less at home. It’s from W.F. Young, a trusted leader in animal care products since 1892.

Silver Honey Rapid Ear Care line (Amazon links below) consists of: 

·       Silver Honey Vet Strength Ear Treatment and Rinse ($54.99 MSRP): a two-step system to treat otitis externa-related ear infections in 10 days or less and starts working to soothe pet pain in less than 30 minutes.

·       Silver Honey Vet Strength Ear Wipes ($19.99 MSRP): convenient ear wipes instantly remove debris and wax to maintain ear health and prevent bacteria from entering the ear. 

EAR TREATMENT AND RINSE PHOTO: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1avWWdoC605xDQwd4Zjl9ZXw_brIbm-5E/view?usp=sharing

EAR WIPES PHOTO: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rxuxUy0LgC8QAcSFJZ_-VOZ00AFIXB_S/view?usp=sharing

Putting Your Dog To Sleep – When Is The ‘Right’ Time?

‘How will I know it’s the right time to euthanize my dog?’

This is probably one of the most common questions owners ask, and the most difficult one to answer.

I’ve seen (and felt) the distress, pain and internal battle that it causes.

In fact, there may not be a clear-cut ‘right’ time to euthanize your dog, but there is often (although not always) a window where it could be considered the ‘best’ time for a number of reasons.

• When a dog is in severe, chronic pain which can’t be relieved
• When a dog is critically injured and won’t be unable to survive the damage
• If a dog’s quality of life is so poor that he/she is merely ‘existing’ not ‘living’

But, there are more ‘gray’ areas than black and white.

Which is the right choice to make when:

• Our dog is in long-term chronic pain, but it IS relieved by medication/treatment
• He isn’t able to run/play and barely eats, but still seems to be comfortable
• She has a terminal disease, but doesn’t have any insurmountable symptoms – yet
• Our dog is mostly anxious/confused but has short periods of being her ‘old self’
• He has no appetite, often refuses to drink and has trouble with incontinence

There are also other potentially difficult situations, such as:

• When a dog is aggressive to the point of being dangerous, and training, behavioral modification and other treatments haven’t helped.
• When finances simply don’t allow you to afford on-going, long-term treatment for your dog’s severe, chronic, and eventually terminal health conditions.
• When your dog could survive for some time to come, but his life will be full of vet visits, painful treatments, anxiety and stress… with no hope of recovery, just management.

As owners, we know our dogs better than anyone else in the world.

We have to rely on our veterinarian’s for professional advice, but it’s important to remember that they only see our pets for very short periods of time – and that their advice will be based on general veterinary principles.

They have to be more objective that we are… and a veterinarian’s objectivity is sometimes essential if emotions are getting in the way of a decision that obviously needs to be made.

If chronic, serious and debilitating illness is the reason you’re trying to decide whether or not to put your dog to sleep, your vet’s input is very important.

But… your vet doesn’t know Fido the way you do.

He can’t tell what your dog is feeling by the way he holds his ears, or ‘read’ the look in his eye…. but you can.

Your dog can’t tell you when he’s in pain, in fact he’ll most likely try his best to pretend he’s fine, so don’t assume that if he’s not crying or whining then he’s fine.

Common signs of distress/pain in dogs include:

• Excessive panting and/or drooling
• Excessive shaking & shivering – even in a warm environment
• A distended, rigid tummy
• Short, rapid breathing patterns
• Lethargy, hiding, excessive sleeping
• Whining, crying or whimpering – when touched, moved or at any time
• Loss of appetite and/or thirst
• Vomiting, excessive yawning, retching

For a more detailed look at the way dogs handle, exhibit (and sometimes hide) pain check out this page Is My Dog in Pain? 

Chronic problems like arthritis , poor sight or hearing, incontinence or confusion (such as seen in Old Dog Syndrome) can usually be managed effectively for some time, but eventually there will be a point where you have to differentiate between a ‘fair’ quality of life, and one that is ‘unfair’, to both of you.

But do remember, that what WE as humans might consider a poor quality of life, isn’t necessarily perceived the same way by our dogs.

Dogs don’t worry about the future,

There’s often a relationship between dog and owner that is more ‘sixth sense’ than it is physical communication, and your ‘gut’ may well guide you when it comes to choosing the right, or best, time to help him reach the Rainbow Bridge.

There’s no single way to make this difficult decision, as every dog, every owner and every situation (and combination of these three) is different.

I recently came across a couple of websites which might be of interest to anyone who is caring for a terminally ill senior dog, or grieving (whether in advance, or after the fact) the death of a beloved pet.

There’s information, advice, support, lists of relevant organizations & services (including pet cemeteries and crematoriums) plus newsletters, in memoriams, chat rooms and more. Check these out:

International Association of Animal Hospice & Palliative Care (IAAHPC)

The Association for Pet Loss & Bereavement (APLB)

Dr. Susan McMillan 

http://www.oldnorthendvet.com/hospice.html

THE PRNC STORY

Pug Rescue of Northern California (formerly Pug Rescue of Sacramento) is a non-profit organization that takes in Pugs and Pug mixes from across Northern California that have been abandoned at pounds or shelters, found as strays or turned in by their owners. We then spay or neuter the pugs, make sure they are current on their shots, perform a heartworm test and start medication, insert a microchip, complete a health check and provide for other medical assessment and treatment as needed. The pugs are fostered in the private homes of our volunteers and then placed in loving, pre-screened adoptive homes.

Visit https://yourenergyhealer.com/webinars/ to sign up for the webinar! 

Dr. Millie Armstrong discusses what happens if you put your dog's flea collar on your cat.

Poisoning most often occurs when pet owners accidentally apply dog-specific topical flea/tick products to their cats. Those roducts that contain insecticides from the pyrethrin or pyrethroid family are the culprit (e.g, permethrin, cyphenothrin, etc.). While these insecticides are safe for dogs (and people),  they are extremely toxic to cats because our feline friends lack the metabolic pathway to quickly detoxify these chemicals.

Dogs and people, on the other hand, are rarely poisoned by these chemicals. Cats can also be exposed by grooming a dog that recently had the product applied or, rarely, even licking the bedding of a dog following application. Remember, cats are not just small dogs. It’s best to think of them as an alien life form that does not obey the rules of other mammals.

 The First Thing an Owner Should Do 
Generally speaking, if you notice your mistake within a few minutes of application, the best option is to immediately (and thoroughly) bathe your cat with liquid hand-dishwashing soap (e.g., Dawn). We recommend two to three latherings just to be safe.

If like you liken the idea of bathing your cat to wrestling an alligator, you’re better off bringing him straight to your vet for a thorough cleaning.

If you don’t notice your mistake until your kitty starts showing twitches or tremors, DO NOT BATHE! Bring your cat immediately to your vet instead. If you were to put a twitching/tremoring cat into the water, chances are that she will become so overstimulated that she’ll start to have seizures. Instead, your vet will sedate your cat, stop the tremors and then safely decontaminate her.

If you caught your mistake in time to safely bathe your cat, your next step is to monitor her very closely for at least 8-12 hours. By "monitoring very closely," we mean checking on her at least every 15 minutes. Set a timer and be diligent about this. Do go to a movie and leave her at home, do not go grocery shopping, do not go on an hour-long run, and most important of all, do not go to bed!

We’ve had several occasions where pet owners thought they had thoroughly bathed their cat and, believing all was well, went to sleep for the night. They then awoke to find their kitty with severe tremors or seizing the next morning. These are terrifying situations and completely preventable. If you aren’t able to stay with your cat, bring her to your vet—they will be able to monitor her while you’re away and, should signs of poisoning arise, they can immediately begin treatment.

Clinical Signs that Require a Hospital
If a cat starts to show muscle twitching, it’s time to get to the hospital. Mild twitching can quickly progress to serious tremors and seizures, both of which can be effectively treated by your veterinarian with injectable muscle relaxants.

Additionally, twitchy cats may have difficulty eating and drinking which can result in dehydration and, in severe situations, fatty liver disease (this can occur in cats, especially obese cats, that do not eat for more than two to three days). While these signs can be very serious or fatal, it’s important to know that these kitties have an excellent prognosis if treated quickly and appropriately. The drugs given to cats to combat this drug are safe and highly effective.

By Jennifer Coates, DVM

Grief is a natural response when a family member or friend dies. We know this for ourselves, but is the same true for our pets? The answer is “yes.” Pets can grieve, but just like us, each responds in his or her own way. The behaviors that you might observe vary based on how close the relationship between the individuals was and the pet’s temperament. But regardless of how grief is displayed, pet parents can do a lot to help. Here are five tips for helping pets deal with their grief.

1.  Recognize the Signs

Think of all the ways that you’ve seen people deal with loss. Some want to be left alone while others crave company. Some cry inconsolably while others are stoic. All of these reactions can be normal.

A recent study showed just how varied pets’ reactions to loss can be. Researchers in New Zealand and Australia surveyed pet owners regarding how their surviving pets reacted to the loss of an animal companion. The research involved 159 dogs and 152 cats. Take a look at this table that reveals some of the study’s more fascinating findings.

Other behavioral changes that were observed included avoidance of regular sleeping locations, aggression toward people and other animals, and changes in elimination behaviors (e.g., litter box use).

2. Give Them What They Need

When dealing with a grief, owners should respect what the pet is trying to communicate. For example, if a pet seeks out more attention, give it to her, but don’t force yourself on a pet who wants to spend some quiet time alone in her friend’s favorite spot.

That said, trying to encourage a grieving and withdrawn pet to engage in some favorite activities is a good idea, just respect an answer of “not right now” if that’s what you get. Try taking your dog out for a walk around the neighborhood or break out your cat’s laser pointer. If your pet usually enjoys spending time with particular human or animal friends, invite them over for a visit. Food treats can also be used to encourage grieving pets to get involved with family activities once again.

3. Time Your Attention Appropriately

On the other hand, if your pet’s grief is causing him to act in ways that are problematical (howling, for example), make sure that your attempts to console him aren’t inadvertently reinforcing that behavior. If possible, ignore the behavior while it is occurring. Only give your pet attention, treats, or anything else that he might be seeking when he is acting in the way that you want him to. While it may seem cruel to ignore a pet who is suffering, remember that these behaviors will pass with time, unless your pet learns that they are the way to get what he wants.

Be careful when it comes to attention-seeking behavior. As long as your pet is not being overly-demanding and doesn’t react poorly when you stop giving attention, it’s fine to respond to a gentle head on your knee or leap into your lap with affection. But if your pet is becoming too insistent, make sure you are the one to initiate your cuddle sessions, not the other way around.

4. Don’t Rush the Process

Some pets will go through the grieving process quickly or not appear to grieve at all, while others may seem to get stuck. The study mentioned above found that for a typical pet, grieving behaviors lasted for less than six months, but this is still longer than many owners might suspect. In general, pets who are making their way through their grief in a healthy manner improve gradually as time goes on. The cat who didn’t want to play at all one week will bat around the catnip mouse for a few minutes the next, or the dog who would only eat treats for a few days starts nibbling at his regular food again.

5. Know When Veterinary Attention Is Necessary

Pets who stop improving, take a step backward, or develop symptoms like persistent loss of appetite, vomiting, or diarrhea that are typically associated with physical illness should be evaluated by a veterinarian. Sometimes the stress caused by the loss of a companion can bring about serious health issues that need to be addressed. On the other hand, if your veterinarian gives your pet a clean bill of health, he or she may be able to prescribe medications or recommend other forms of treatment that will improve your pet’s outlook on life.

In conclusion, pets grieve the loss of a beloved family member in much the same way as we do and have many of the same needs during this difficult time. While it can be difficult to focus on your pet’s grief when you are in mourning yourself, doing so has a way of making everyone feel better in the end.

Visit https://www.facebook.com/PaiTCDenver/

A great event in Denver, Colorado

Visit thekaotichooker to learn more about the cute plush toys.

Cindy Myers Ambassador to Animals, Humans and Spirit

I’ve always been a good listener. However, twenty years ago, I would have found it hilarious if you told me that I’d be working as an intuitive energy healer while living on an alpaca farm! But, here I am with a herd of 24 alpacas, 3 dogs and 3 cats working as a Medical Intuitive! I believe that the sum of our life experiences can lead us to our true calling in life. There are many paths to finding our way to our authentic selves.

It took many years, multiple and diverse career paths, and tough life challenges to finding my true calling. The life lessons were invaluable that led me to this meaningful life. I learned about frequencies and Radars while working as an Engineer for the Navy and now I am a Radar! I learned all about stress and how harmful it is to our body, mind and spirit while being my mom’s caregiver through her final years. And there was an amazing gift I created out of the house fire I experienced due to an arsonist. Losing my belongings led me to discovering myself. And I found the courage to embrace and pursue my calling of intuitive energy work. It is an honor and humbles me to do this work for people and their animals.

I love sharing my intuitive abilities with both animals and humans. I look forward to helping you restore your energy balance so you can live an abundantly joy filled life!

How Often to Bathe and Groom a Dog

A clean pup is a healthy pup, but if you’re a new pet parent, it may be confusing figuring out how often to bathe and groom your dog. However, the right bathing and grooming schedule for your pet will help maintain their overall skin and coat health and keep them comfortable.
 
The frequency of bathing and grooming your dog depends on a couple of factors including your dog’s breed, lifestyle and coat health.
 
If you’re trying to establish a grooming schedule for your dog, you can follow these guidelines to create the ideal program for your pup.

How often should you wash your dog?

While the frequency of bathing may be different for each dog, Wendy Weinand, manager, pet services grooming education for Petco, says that a good rule to follow is to wash your dog every four weeks.
 
“This will help to keep their skin and coat clean and keep their natural oils spread out to help condition,” she says. “Plus, they will smell great.”
 
Regular bathing is important because it removes the buildup of dirt and debris on a dog’s skin and prevents potential skin conditions from developing such as clogged pores, itchiness, dry skin or oily skin. “When pets are dirty, their skin doesn’t ‘breathe’ correctly,” says Weinand, “and they can end up with some issues that may require veterinary care to fix.”
 
Keep in mind that dogs who play outdoors regularly or get dirty from rolling around in dirt and mud may need more frequent baths. Certain dog breeds may also need to be washed more than others.
 
“Certain breeds, like Chesapeake Bay Retrievers, have a naturally oily coat,” says Weinand. “Bathing them regularly will help remove the ‘dirty’ oils and replace them with clean, new natural oil the skin is producing.”
 
Seasonality may also affect the frequency of your dog’s baths, Weinand adds. In the winter, pet parents may want to bathe and condition their dog’s skin more frequently to cut down on dryness and itching. While in the spring, when pets are shedding, more frequent baths may be needed to help remove dead coat.
 
Be careful not to bathe your dog too often, because overwashing your dog’s skin can cause irritation. “Unless there is a medical reason for more frequent baths, overbathing your pet—say weekly or even every two weeks—can dry out the skin and coat,” says Weinand.

How often should you groom your dog?

Grooming your dog’s hair and coat is another necessary pet parent responsibility. Like bathing, the frequency of grooming appointments or at-home grooming sessions will depend on your dog’s breed and coat length.
 
“The majority of breeds that need haircuts—for example Poodles, Cocker Spaniels and Yorkies—need to be seen every six to eight weeks to keep their coats from getting matted,” says Weinand. “Their coats tend to grow at a faster rate than some other breeds.”
 
Dogs with shorter coats, like the Brittany or Parson Terrier, can go longer between grooming appointments because their hair grows slower. These dog breeds should still be brushed regularly at home to keep their coats healthy.
 
Pet parents should watch for matting and pay attention to overall hair and coat health when brushing their dogs. If something doesn’t look right, they should consult with a veterinarian or dog groomer for professional treatment.

How often to trim your dog’s nails

Keeping your dog’s nails trimmed is a part of grooming that many pet parents find difficult, but it’s something that shouldn’t be overlooked.
 
“If nails get too long, it can cause issues with walking,” says Weinand. “Or they will crack up to the paw exposing the ‘vein,’ which can be very painful.” Additionally, “Not trimming your dog’s nails regularly can also lead to infections that may require veterinary intervention.”
 
Most dogs need their nails trimmed every two weeks, says Weinand. If dogs regularly walk outside on hard surfaces like sidewalks or pavement, they may require less frequent nail trims (every four weeks) because the act of walking can help file nails down.
 
If you’re unsure how to approach this part of grooming, watch this video to learn how to cut your dog’s nails properly.
 
For more guidance on your pet’s specific bathing and grooming needs, scroll through to find Petco’s recommended schedule below. If you don’t see your pet’s breed, you can call your local Petco grooming salon for recommendations.

This week on Bark & Wag 15 Minute Vet Talk podcast we are talking to Nicole Scherer, VP of Labrador Connection in Woodstock, IL, about how you can get involved and volunteer with a rescue near you. Please like and subscribe on iTunes, Stitcher, iHeartRadio and YouTube. 🐾❤️#barknwagbuzz.

Please visit http://www.thelabconnection.org and donate as well as win Bears tickets! 

The Safe Outdoor Dogs Act prohibits chaining up dogs outdoors in Texas and requires dogs have adequate shelter. AUSTIN, Texas — After a nearly identical bill was vetoed by Gov. Greg Abbott earlier this year, Senate Bill 5, also known as the Safe Outdoor Dogs Act, was signed into law in October.

Texas Humane Legislation Network (THLN) is the only Texas-based organization focused on addressing unjust state animal welfare laws. We at the Texas Humane Legislation Network - a 501c4 - are working to stop animal cruelty and abuse before it starts. 

Our IRS status as a 501c4 allows us to be political animal advocates, by lobbying and working with our representatives to fix our lenient animal cruelty laws.  While there are *thousands* of 501c3s in Texas formed to help animals, they are *VERY* limited in how much they can lobby, and are outright prohibited from participating in any partisan activities. 

https://www.thln.org/about

Knowledge with animal lovers. Perfect time to join to see cute puppies.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/2522610434667637/

Make sure to visit Dog Training Camp USA to learn more https://dogtrainingcampusa.com/about 

Alisa, Owner of Custom Digital Pet Watercolors, discusses starting a business where she turns cute pet photos to beautiful digital watercolor portraits. 

Cristi Eckert, owner of Natural Pet Wellness, would love to talk to you about Essential Oils and Reiki.

Vacation is your time to unwind and escape the stresses of your busy life. Why not make your vacation time just as enjoyable for your dog? They deserve a vacation as well! Boarding your dog when you’re out of town is a great way to ensure that your dog is thoughtfully cared for while you’re away.  To keep both of your vacations as stress-free as possible, here are 5 things that you can do to prepare your dog before boarding:

Consider a Boarding Trial

If your dog is particularly nervous or prone to separation anxiety, it’s a good idea to plan a trial boarding stay. The trial stay of at least 24 hours eases your dog into a new environment and a new daily routine. You may find that your dog will adjust much better when it comes time for a longer stay.

Adjust Your Dog’s Sleeping Habits

If your dog sleeps with you in your bed each night, you can expect him to be upset with sleeping alone at the boarding facility. Do your best to get him adjusted to sleeping by himself. If he cries when sleeping alone, you can expect him to cry when he’s boarded.

Keep Your Dog Comfortable

Regardless of the creature comforts your chosen boarding facility provides, there’s nothing like the comfort of home. Bring a familiar rug for your dog to sleep on. It will help them feel more secure. The facility may allow you to bring your dog’s bed, so ask in advance.

Drop Off Your Dog in the Morning

If your schedule permits, drop your dog off at the boarding facility early in the morning. This gives them the entire day to adjust to their surroundings before its time to bed down for the night.

Visit Your Dog’s Veterinarian

It’s important, and considerate to the other dogs, that you de-flea and worm your dog. You should also update your dog’s vaccinations at least two weeks prior to boarding. Both of these precautions are typically required before boarding.

One of the most difficult behaviors for dogs to master is the “Stay.” This is a command that must be well-defined for your dog. This includes teaching the stay in several stages, as well as teaching the behavior in reverse, starting with the end and working backward for longer and more reliable stays.

Create a Definite Beginning and a Definite Ending

The first and most important rule of the stay is to have a definite beginning and a definite ending. This means pairing your stay command with a release word that signals that the stay is finished. Common release words include “OK,” “Free,” Release,” and “All Done.” Choose one word as your release word and use only that word consistently when the “stay” is finished.

To teach the release word, position your dog as you wish, in either a sit, down or stand. Then give your dog a stay command, followed almost immediately by your release word and reward. Don’t worry if your dog does not move following the release word. You can step back, clap your hands, or otherwise engage in positive interaction to cue them that it is OK to move.

Do watch out for these common pitfalls when teaching stay:

• Do not give your stay command with food in your hand. This will only lure your dog to follow you.
• Do not always call your dog to come to you from a stay. This will cause him to anticipate a recall. Practice by leaving your dog and returning to him before giving the release word.

Three D’s: Duration, Distance, and Distractions

Once you have successfully paired a release word with your stay command, you are ready to move to the next step. Dog trainers refer to these as the Three D’s: Duration, Distance, and Distractions. Duration is the amount of time your dog is in a stay. Distance is how far from your dog you go. Distractions are anything that happens during your dog’s stay.

1. Duration – The amount of time your dog remains in his stay is called duration. To begin, position your dog as you wish, in a sit, down, or stand. Give your stay command, without moving count to three, and then release your dog using his release word. Increase the time you ask your dog to stay by two to three second intervals. If your dog breaks his stay, just reset him and ask him to stay for a lesser time in which he was successful.
2. Distance – Moving away from your dog is referred to as distance, and it is common for owners to rush this phase of training. Teaching distance stays happen literally a half step at a time. Position your dog as you wish and give your dog his stay command. Step back with one foot, lean back, then step back to your dog and release him. Next, take one full step back then return to your dog for the release and a reward. Continue slowly, adding only one step at a time. Remember, do not have food in the hand in which you give your dog the stay command. Also, return to your dog before you release him, and do not always call him out of a stay.
3. Distractions – Distractions are anything, big or small, that happens during your dog’s stay. It is important to have a strong foundation with your release word, stay duration, and distance before you try and add distractions. Once distractions are to be added, start with something easy at home or in the back yard, and work your way up to more distractions in various environments. One good technique is to use higher value treat rewards when introducing and increasing distractions.

Proofing

People love their dogs because they help us remain in the present moment. Dogs live very much in the here and now. This means anything, everything or even nothing at all can cause a dog to break his stay. Proofing is an important part of training the stay for reliability in a variety of situations. Always start simple and gradually increase what you are asking of your dog.

1. Proofing for duration from the science of canine cognition we know that dogs understand if we are paying attention to them or not, no matter what the proximity. Practice this by asking your dog to stay while you sit, lie down, read, watch television, or cook. Be sure to reward at various intervals for the stay, but do not allow them to get up until you have given the release word.
2. Proofing for distance is moving away from your dog and includes going out of sight. Practice this by moving away from your dog at various angles, either leaving to the side, diagonally and/or going behind your dog. When working out of sight, use a mirror to see your dog around corners. You can either set him up angling a wall mirror or, as inconspicuously as possible, use a hand mirror.
3. Proofing for distractions is one of the more difficult tasks. Ideas include bouncing or rolling a ball while your dog is on a stay, jumping up and down, or running past your dog. Remember, you must start slowly and build up to things more interesting to your dog. One helpful hint is to use “leave it” during the stay. Often with distractions, dogs are more likely to succeed with additional information such as reminding them to stay or to “leave” distractions like toys.

Additional Tips:

• If you think your dog is going to move, repeat your stay command.
• Set your dog up for success. Do what you feel you need to do to help your dog be successful. The more successful they are, the more reliable the stay behavior will be.

Kersti Nieto, Dog Trainer at Dog Training Camp USA discusses what to do when you have pack competition. 

In an ideal world, all dog food would be created equal. Instead, dog owners are presented with an overwhelming array of options, all claiming to be the best dog food on the market. Wading through these choices to find a dog food brand that is healthy, affordable, and appealing to your pet is often frustrating. We’ve compiled expert advice to help you narrow down your options.

What Makes a Dog Food “Good”?

Most people feed their dogs dry kibble or canned wet food. These processed foods might not be appealing to us, but they contain all of the nutrients dogs need to stay healthy. Quality commercial dog foods are highly regulated and have undergone rigorous testing by veterinary specialists. So what exactly is in these dog foods?

Dogs, unlike cats, are not strict carnivores. While meat makes up the majority of their diet, domestic dogs can also derive nutrients from grains, fruits, and vegetables. These non-meat foods are not simply fillers, but can be a valuable source of essential vitamins, minerals, and fiber. A good dog food will contain meat, vegetables, grains, and fruits. The best dog foods contain high-quality versions of these ingredients that are appropriate for your dog’s digestive system.

Dog Food Nutrition

The best dog food for your canine companion should meet his nutritional needs. While most commercial dog food brands are specially formulated with at least the minimum nutritional requirements for dogs, it is important to remember that not every dog has exactly the same nutritional needs.

Dogs require a wide range of nutrients in different quantities over the course of their lives. The nutritional needs of a puppy are different from an adult dog, which is why it is a good idea to feed a puppy formula or an “all life stages” food to your young dog. If you are unsure about the differences in nutritional requirements between puppies and adults, the Merck Veterinary Manual lists the recommended nutrients for dogs, along with the recommended amount by weight and age. Large breed dogs and puppies have different nutritional requirements than small breed dogs and puppies.

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Dog Food Myths and Misinformation

There are plenty of dog food myths and misinformation about dog nutrition on the Internet. You can sort through it by following one simple rule: check your sources. Many well-meaning individuals make claims about dog nutrition without backing them up with scientific evidence. As you do research, always check to see if the information is supported by a credible source, like a veterinarian, canine nutritionist, or scientific study. It never hurts to be skeptical, either. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

Many people have questions about grain-inclusive or grain-free dog food, pea-free dog food, or dog foods containing animal byproducts. If your dog has been diagnosed with a food allergy caused by grains, you may choose a grain-free diet under the guidance of your veterinarian. For most dogs, grains are actually a source of wholesome nutrients. Quality animal byproducts are also nutritious. These include organ meats and entrails, which often contain more nutrients than the muscle meat consumed by humans. Regulated byproducts do not include hooves, hair, floor sweepings, intestinal contents, or manure. As with any pet-related inquiry, feel free to discuss your concerns about your dog’s food with your veterinarian.

How to Read a Dog Food Label

One way to decipher a good dog food from a bad dog food is to read the label. This is easier said than done, as labels can be hard to read, both due to the small print and just plain awkwardness of handling big bags of dog food in the store! But labels can also be misleading, as the Merck Veterinary Manual explains. Dog food labels are required by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to tell you eight key pieces of information, and individual states may also have their own labeling requirements:

• Product name
• Net weight of the product
• Name and address of the manufacturer
• Guaranteed analysis
• List of ingredients
• Intended animal species (i.e. dog or cat)
• Statement of nutritional adequacy
• Feeding guidelines

Product Name

The product name alone tells you a lot about what’s inside the can or bag. The term “beef” means that beef must make up at least 70 percent of the entire product. The terms “beef dinner,” “beef entrée,” or “beef platter,” on the other hand, only require that beef makes up at least 10 percent of the entire product. “With beef” only requires that 3 percent of the total product be beef, and “beef flavor” simply implies that there is enough beef in the product to flavor it (less than 3 percent). The same holds true for other named ingredients like “chicken.”

Ingredients

The ingredient list on a dog food label will not tell you the quality of the ingredients or where they came from, and some manufacturers split up the ingredients to make the distribution more equal. For instance, different types of corn, such as flaked corn, ground corn, or kibbled corn, can be listed separately. This bumps corn down on the list of ingredients, even though the actual content of corn in the food is high. Meat is another tricky ingredient. Whole meats contain a large percentage of water weight, which means that the overall percentage of meat after processing is lower than it appears. Meat meal, on the other hand, sounds less appealing to people, but actually contains more meat than “whole meats,” as there is no water weight to throw off the calculation.

While the ingredient list might not tell you the quality of the ingredients, it does tell you what is in the food. This is especially important for dogs with special dietary needs or allergies and is also useful for owners who wish to feed their dogs specific sources of fiber, protein, and carbohydrates.

“Complete and Balanced” Dog Foods

One of the first things you should look for on a dog food label is the statement “(Name of product) is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles.” This isn’t just an advertising slogan. The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) has strict requirements to make sure that a product is in fact complete and balanced for dogs (or cats). Complete and balanced diets must contain the minimum amount of all of the nutrients necessary for dogs, which is also indicated in the “guaranteed analysis.” This analysis gives the minimum amount of crude protein and fat, along with the maximum amounts of water and crude fiber. The analysis does not, however, give the exact amount of these components, which means there is room for considerable variation. The manufacturer’s average nutrient profile is often a better tool for evaluating a product.

You can always contact the dog food company directly to get more information about its product. A reputable company that has your dog’s interests at heart should be happy to answer your questions and in many cases will give you more information than what is available on the website or product label. The World Small Animal Veterinary Association has a helpful sheet with questions you can ask a company representative.

Best Dog Food for Small and Large Breeds

Small breed dogs and large breed dogs have different nutritional needs. Large breed dogs are more prone to musculoskeletal problems than smaller breeds, and so they often require large-breed dog food with different balances of certain nutrients to promote musculoskeletal health, especially as puppies. Small breed dogs, on the other hand, can choke on large-sized kibble and have their own nutritional requirements that can be accommodated with a small-breed dog food. Research your dog’s breed to find out if there are any additional nutritional requirements you should be aware of.

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Best Dog Food for Puppies

The nutritional needs of dogs vary throughout their life. Puppies have different nutritional needs than adult dogs, and senior dogs have their own nutritional considerations. Most dog food companies carry specially formulated puppy foods for each stage of a dog’s life, making it easier to narrow down your choices. If you are concerned about which is the best dog food for your dog’s life stage, consult your veterinarian to see what stage food is appropriate for your dog.

Your puppy requires a different nutrient balance than an adult dog. This is especially true for large breeds. Feeding a large breed puppy food can help, as their growth needs to be monitored carefully to prevent bone and joint problems. Other puppies do well on both “puppy food” and food labeled “for all life stages.” The best food for your puppy depends on your puppy’s size and breed. Always consult your veterinarian for recommendations on puppy feeding, and advice on how to switch puppies to adult dog food.

Best Dog Food for Senior Dogs

Senior dogs, usually considered 7+, vary in their individual nutritional needs. Younger senior dogs may struggle with being overweight and older senior dogs may struggle with being underweight, which is why there is such a variety.

Choosing the best senior dog food may come down to what your dog finds palatable. Many older dogs prefer wet food while others may need their food warmed up to enhance the aromas. Ultimately, your vet can help choose the best dog food for an older pet.

Best Food for Dogs With Special Dietary Needs

Allergies, sensitive stomachs, and dietary restrictions affect dogs, as well as people. Feeding dogs with special dietary needs can be tricky. Your best course of action is to consult your veterinarian for advice about the dog food that best helps with their condition.

Best Dry Dog Food

The most widely available and affordable dog food is dry dog food. Dry dog food does not require refrigeration, which is its main advantage over wet dog food, as it contains approximately 90 percent dry matter and 10 percent water. This makes it easy to store. Dry dog food is made by combining and cooking ingredients like meat and grains. This process converts the starches in the food into an easily digested form, while also destroying toxins and flash sterilizing the ingredients. There are many different varieties of dry dog food on the shelves. The best dry food for your dog depends on your dog’s dietary needs. In general, a higher quality dry dog food that contains the appropriate ingredients for your dog’s life stage and breed is the best choice, but talk to your vet or veterinary nutritionist about the healthiest choice for your pet.

Best Wet Dog Food

Wet dog food, or canned dog food, is a perfectly viable alternative to dry dog food. While generally slightly more expensive, wet dog food is more palatable than dry food and can help stimulate the appetite of picky eaters. Wet dog food contains many of the same ingredients as dry dog food, but not in the same quantities. Wet food contains higher amounts of fresh meat, poultry, fish, and animal byproducts, along with more textured proteins derived from grains. Canned dog food has a long shelf life, however it must be refrigerated once opened. The best wet food for your dog, just as with dry dog food, depends on your dog’s life stage, breed, and any special dietary needs or allergies. Talk to your vet about the wet dog food that he recommends for your pet.

How Much Should I Feed My Dog?

Dog obesity is a growing concern in the veterinary community and has been linked to many health problems in dogs. Luckily for our pets, we are usually more disciplined about controlling their diets than we are about controlling our own. Knowing how much to feed your dog and what healthy dog weight looks like can be tricky. Many owners accidentally overfeed their pets, which is why it is important to take your dog in for regular checkups and to talk with your vet about appropriate portions. The guidelines on the back of the bag are just that – guidelines. Some dogs may require more than the recommended amount, whereas others require much less. Activity level, time of year, nursing, illness, and more factors can all impact how much a dog needs to eat. Dog people will often advise that you should “feed the dog that’s in front of you” instead of strictly adhering to dog food serving size guidelines that may or may not be exactly what your dog needs.

Choosing the Best Dog Food

The best dog food for your dog is ultimately up to you to decide. As an owner, you are the one who sees your dog on a regular basis. If your dog produces firm, healthy stool, is active and fit, and has a healthy appetite, then your dog food is probably working just fine.

Your veterinarian is a valuable resource to you during this process. They know more about pet nutrition than the average owner, and they also have access to research and resources that owners do not have. Your vet can help you narrow down your options and should be more than happy to help you find the answers to your questions about your dog’s food.

Cannabis (Marijuana) Intoxication in Cats and Dogs

Essential Oils and Pets: A Quick How-To

Cindy Meyers  - http://www.beananimallistener.com/

Certified in:
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Vomiting in Dogs: Causes and Treatment

Cindy Myers Ambassador to Animals, Humans and Spirit

I’ve always been a good listener. However, twenty years ago, I would have found it hilarious if you told me that I’d be working as an intuitive energy healer while living on an alpaca farm! But, here I am with a herd of 24 alpacas, 3 dogs and 3 cats working as a Medical Intuitive! I believe that the sum of our life experiences can lead us to our true calling in life. There are many paths to finding our way to our authentic selves.

It took many years, multiple and diverse career paths, and tough life challenges to finding my true calling. The life lessons were invaluable that led me to this meaningful life. I learned about frequencies and Radars while working as an Engineer for the Navy and now I am a Radar! I learned all about stress and how harmful it is to our body, mind and spirit while being my mom’s caregiver through her final years. And there was an amazing gift I created out of the house fire I experienced due to an arsonist. Losing my belongings led me to discovering myself. And I found the courage to embrace and pursue my calling of intuitive energy work. It is an honor and humbles me to do this work for people and their animals.

I love sharing my intuitive abilities with both animals and humans. I look forward to helping you restore your energy balance so you can live an abundantly joy filled life!

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Mella not only takes your pet's body temperature, but it also displays the results on your smart device or desktop. The data is automatically recorded and can be sent to a Practice Management System where it can be analyzed and made intelligible for you.

Visit https://www.mella.ai/

You are listening to Bark & Wag 15 Minute Vet Talk and I am your host Polly ReQua.

Today we are talking with Dr. Susan McMillan, owner of Vet to Pet Mobile Veterinary Service in Burlington, Vermont about signs of heatstroke.

Heatstroke occurs when normal body mechanisms cannot keep the body's temperature in a safe range. Animals do not have efficient cooling systems (like humans who sweat) and get overheated easily. A dog with moderate heatstroke (body temperature from 104º to 106ºF) can recover within an hour if given prompt first aid and veterinary care (normal body temperature is 100-102.5°F). Severe heatstroke (body temperature over 106ºF) can be deadly and immediate veterinary assistance is needed.

Signs

A dog suffering from heatstroke will display several signs:

• Rapid panting
• Bright red tongue
• Red or pale gums
• Thick, sticky saliva
• Depression
• Weakness
• Dizziness
• Vomiting - sometimes with blood
• Diarrhea
• Shock
• Coma

What you should do

Remove the dog from the hot area immediately. Prior to taking him to your veterinarian, lower his temperature by wetting him thoroughly with cool water (for very small dogs, use lukewarm water), then increase air movement around him with a fan. CAUTION: Using very cold water can actually be counterproductive. Cooling too quickly and especially allowing his body temperature to become too low can cause other life-threatening medical conditions. The rectal temperature should be checked every 5 minutes. Once the body temperature is 103ºF, the cooling measures should be stopped and the dog should be dried thoroughly and covered so he does not continue to lose heat. Even if the dog appears to be recovering, take him to your veterinarian as soon as possible. He should still be examined since he may be dehydrated or have other complications.

Allow free access to water or a children's rehydrating solution if the dog can drink on his own. Do not try to force-feed cold water; the dog may inhale it or choke.

What your veterinarian will do

Your veterinarian will lower your dog's body temperature to a safe range (if you have not already) and continually monitor his temperature. Your dog will be given fluids, and possibly oxygen. He will be monitored for shock, respiratory distress, kidney failure, heart abnormalities, and other complications, and treated accordingly. Blood samples may be taken before and during the treatment. The clotting time of the blood will be monitored, since clotting problems are a common complication.

Aftercare

Dogs with moderate heatstroke often recover without complicating health problems. Severe heatstroke can cause organ damage that might need ongoing care such as a special diet prescribed by your veterinarian. Dogs who suffer from heatstroke once increase their risk for getting it again and steps must be taken to prevent it on hot, humid days.

Prevention

Any pet that cannot cool himself off is at risk for heatstroke. Following these guidelines can help prevent serious problems.

• Keep pets with predisposing conditions like heart disease, obesity, older age, or breathing problems cool and in the shade. Even normal activity for these pets can be harmful.
• Provide access to water at all times.
• Do not leave your pet in a hot parked car even if you're in the shade or will only be gone a short time. The temperature inside a parked car can quickly reach up to140 degrees.
• Make sure outside dogs have access to shade.
• On a hot day, restrict exercise and don't take your dog jogging with you. Too much exercise when the weather is very hot can be dangerous.
• Do not muzzle your dog.
• Avoid places like the beach and especially concrete or asphalt areas where heat is reflected and there is no access to shade.
• Wetting down your dog with cool water or allowing him to swim can help maintain a normal body temperature.
• Move your dog to a cool area of the house.

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Carrie has been on the podcast a few times. Please find all of the companies Carrie is involved with in 2020.

 

Rocky Rex is the Saurus of recreation recommendations in Denver and beyond. Find fun things to do with friends and family, including your pets! Have ideas or suggestions? Email us at info@rockyrex.com

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Chicago Rex is the Saurus of recreation activities in Chicagoland area. Find fun pet friendly beer gardens, pet massage classes and more! Send suggestions to info@chicagorex.com

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Welcome to Bark & Wag 15 Minute Vet Talk – I am your host Polly ReQua

Today we are talking to Kersti Nieto, trainer at Dog Training Camp USA in Raleigh, NC about tips on how to find a dog trainer.

Here are some frequently asked questions from pet parents who are seeking professional behavioral help for their pet:

What are the differences between pet-behavior professionals?

Trainers
Pet trainers use a number of different titles, such as “behavior counselor,” “pet psychologist” and “pet therapist.” The level of education and experience among this group of professionals varies greatly. Most learn how to work with animals through apprenticeships with established trainers, volunteering at animal shelters, attending seminars on training and behavior and training their own animals. And some are certified by specialized training schools.

Certified Professional Dog Trainers (CPDTs)
The Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (CCPDT), an independent organization created by the Association of Professional Dog Trainers (APDT), offers an international certification program. To earn the designation of Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT), an individual must accrue a requisite number of working hours as a dog trainer, provide letters of recommendation and pass a standardized test that evaluates her or his knowledge of canine ethology, basic learning theory, canine husbandry and teaching skill. A CPDT must abide by a code of ethics and earn continuing education credits to maintain certification.

Applied Animal Behaviorists, Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (CAABs) and Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (ACAABs)
An applied animal behaviorist has earned an MS, MA or PhD in animal behavior. They are experts in dog and cat behavior and often in the behavior of other companion animal species as well, like horses and birds. Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (CAABs, those with a doctoral degree) and Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (ACAABs, those with a master’s degree) received supervised graduate or post-graduate training in animal behavior, biology, zoology and learning theory at accredited universities.

Effective applied animal behaviorists will have expertise in (a) behavior modification, so they know the techniques that produce changes in behavior, (b) the normal behavior of the species they’re treating, so they can recognize how and why your pet’s behavior is abnormal, and (c) teaching and counseling people, so they can effectively teach you how to understand and work with your pet. Most CAABs work through veterinary referrals, and they work closely with veterinarians to select the best behavioral medications for pets.

Veterinary Behaviorists
Knowledge of animal behavior isn’t required to earn a veterinary degree, and animal behavior isn’t comprehensively taught in most veterinary training programs. However, some veterinarians seek specialized education in animal behavior and earn certification through the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists. To become a Diplomat of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (Dip ACVB), veterinarians must complete a residency in behavior and pass a qualifying examination.

In addition to having knowledge of domestic animal behavior and experience treating pet behavior problems, veterinary behaviorists can prescribe medications that can help with your pet’s treatment. Issues that often require the use of medication include separation anxiety, phobias, compulsive behaviors and fear of people, objects or other animals.

What kind of training does my pet need?

Once you’ve determined that you and your pet need some professional help to keep your household harmonious, consider what kind of training or treatment you need.

Group Class
If your pet needs to learn some basic manners and skills, like sit, down and come when called, you might benefit most from group obedience classes. Group glasses are also ideal for young puppies who need socialization.

Private Sessions
If your dog or cat has a specific behavior problem, seeing a professional outside of a classroom context would be best. Problems like resource guarding, handling issues, separation anxiety and aggression toward people or other animals require custom treatment plans and individual attention from a qualified behaviorist. Other less serious behavior issues that trainers and behaviorists can’t usually address in a group class include house training problems, excessive barking and destructive chewing.

Day Training & Board-and-Train
Day training is a great service for busy pet parents. The trainer comes to your house while you’re at work, or alternatively, some train your dog in their home or facility. The trainer teaches your dog the specific obedience behaviors you want, for example recalls (coming when called), wait, stay, walk on-leash without pulling and greeting people and pets politely. If the trainer is qualified as a behaviorist, she can also treat issues like resource guarding, handling issues, some other types of aggression, some types of excessive barking or meowing and some fears.

Board-and-train services involve leaving your pet in the trainer’s kennels for a specified period of time. Be sure that you know and agree with the methods that your board-and-train or day training professional plans to use, since you will not be there to supervise. This method should also provide a training package with instruction for you. Board-and-train and day training programs are only effective if the trainer teaches you some skills so that you can maintain your pet’s new behaviors after her training is done.

How Do I Decide Which Professional to Choose?

After you’ve decided between group classes, one-on-one private help and board-and-train, how do you figure out which professional is right for you and your pet? Your decision will be based on a number of factors, including the type of problem your pet has, the professional’s education and experience and the availability of behaviorists and trainers in your area.

Ask the right questions.
We advise contacting more than one professional in your area so that you can compare their methods, credentials and experience before making a choice. Don’t hire any professional without first thoroughly interviewing her or him and asking for a couple of references from former clients or veterinarians. A good behaviorist or trainer will be happy to speak with you about her or his qualifications, background and treatment or training methods.

Consider the nature of your pet’s behavioral problem.
If your pet has a serious behavior problem that puts him, people or other animals at risk, or if he’s developed a problem that causes him significant stress, seek an expert with both academic training (either a master’s or doctoral degree) and practical experience. Although some CAABs, ACAABs and Dip ACVBs charge more per session than trainers, it’s because they’ve acquired a great deal of knowledge through years of study and research.

Rule out physical problems.
If your pet has a behavior problem, contacting a trainer or a behaviorist is a great first step on the road to resolution. However, some behavior problems can be caused or exacerbated by physical problems. For example, if your nine-week-old puppy urinates indoors when you’re not supervising him, he probably simply needs house training, but if your five-year-old dog who hasn’t made a mistake in the house for years suddenly starts urinating indoors, you might have a medical condition on your hands.

Trainers and behaviorists specialize in pet behavior problems. Only licensed veterinarians can diagnose medical conditions. If you think that your pet is sick, injured or experiencing any kind of physical distress, please contact your veterinarian immediately.

Dog Training Camp USA 919-401-9050 dogtrainingcampusa.com

You are listening to Bark & Wag 15 Minute Vet Talk and I am your host Polly ReQua

Today we are talking with Dr. Susan McMillan, owner of Vet to Pet Mobile Veterinary Service in Burlington, Vermont about the signs of an aging pet.

Welcome Susan….

11 Signs Of Aging Every Dog Owner Needs To Look For

Age creeps up on all of us, even our dogs. The signs can be subtle, easily missed while we go about our daily lives. However, being aware of and paying attention to the signs of aging in your dog could help you catch health issues early, which may make treatment easier and less expensive. Not to mention save your dog discomfort. If you notice any of these, it’s time for a vet visit.

#1 – Slowing Down

Do you have to encourage your dog to run up the hill when he used to beat you to the top? Slowing down can be a sign of early arthritis, thyroid issues, etc. 

#2 – Gaining Weight

As your dog gets older, you might notice her getting pudgy. This can be a sign of many things such as a slowing metabolism, thyroid issues, etc. It could be as simply as feeding your dog less or switching to a lower calorie diet, but definitely check with your vet first to rule out any real medical issues.

#3 –Not Responding To You

Has your dog stopped coming when you call? If you think your aging dog is just becoming “old and stubborn,” think again – he may be losing his hearing. Time to brush up on those hand signals!

#4 – Trouble Getting Up

You may notice your dog has trouble getting up after lying or sitting a long time, particularly on hard surfaces. She may also have issues staying on her feet. This can be another sign of joint pain and should definitely be checked out by a vet.

#5 – Cloudy Eyes

This can be hard to notice at first, especially if you have a dog that really avoids eye contact. However, it’s important to notice because while most dogs develop some cloudiness as they age (nuclear sclerosis), it can also be a sign of cataracts, which will need treatment. Definitely go to the vet if you notice any cloudiness.

#6 – More Bathroom Breaks

As your dog ages, he will also need to go to the bathroom more often. If he starts having accidents in the house, you may need to up your number of potty breaks throughout the day or leave pee pads out when you leave.

#7 – Continued Bathroom Accidents

On the same note, if your dog seems to be going randomly a lot even after you have upped your bathroom breaks, she may be having trouble holding “it.” Take her to the vet to make sure nothing is wrong medically.

#8 – Lumps

A dog owner’s worst fear – lumps. You should be feeling your dog from lumps frequently. On short hair dogs they will eventually be noticeable by sight, but it’s better if you detect them early – especially if they ended up being cancerous. On Long hair dogs, regular feeling is vital, since they won’t be visible even when they get large.

#9 – Deteriorating Coat Condition

Dry coat, itchy, flaky, hot spots, hair loss, etc. – these are all indications that something is going on with your aging dog. They can be indications of a lot of different medical issues. If you notice your dog’s hair isn’t as nice as it once was, it’s time to go to the vet. 

#10 – Slow To Do Something

Did you ask your dog to sit and he looks at you for several seconds? Maybe he refuses the first time and then the second time you ask he does it – but only after carefully positioning his body and moving very slowing? These are signs that his body is getting older and doing things like sitting, lying down, jumping, etc., are getting difficult. Same goes for repetitiveness. Maybe he sits the first two times but refuses the third. 

#11 – Bad Breath

This sign of aging will probably be the first you encounter. Dogs as young as three develop this and it’s usually a sign of dental disease. If your dog starts having bad breath, it’s definitely a “don’t wait” vet visit. The longer the teeth are allowed to decay the worse it will be for your dog and your pocketbook.

Indy & Olly’s got its start in 2019 out of Evergreen, Colorado, when our founder decided it was time to honor two of her favorite dogs with a business that gives back. Indy & Olly’s—the company—has several goals:

​

• Help homeless dogs find homes

• Be a platform for promoting dog adoptions, spreading the spay & neuter message and keeping dogs out of shelters.

• Care for the earth and its inhabitants in all we do.

Indy & Olly’s is a for-purpose dog bandana company that helps dogs in animal rescues and shelters get adopted by improving pet adoption photos…because dogs look #betterwithbandanas.

Visit https://www.indyollys.com/to see the great Valentine bandanas! 

What food can your dog have on Thanksgiving?

You need to listen to learn more.

Happy Thanksgiving! 

Visit https://yourenergyhealer.com/ to learn more.

You are listening to Bark & Wag’s 15 Minute Vet Talk and I am your host Polly ReQua.

Today we are talking with Dr. Susan McMillan, owner of Vet to Pet Mobile Veterinary Service in Burlington, Vermont to shed light on shelter dogs.

 With somewhere between 5 and 7 million homeless animals entering U.S. animal shelters, it’s unconscionable to suggest, as one writer did in the Washington Post, that adopting a pet from an animal shelter is a bad idea. (See a comprehensive refutation from Washington Humane Society’s Lisa Lafontaine.)

But as ridiculous as anti-shelter arguments are, they reveal destructive myths about shelter animals that need to be called out every time they arise. I’m sharing some of the most persistent ones below, and have enlisted help from ASPCA shelter science experts to help dispel them.

Myth: The major reasons dogs end up in shelters is because they were seized in criminal cases, or were too aggressive to own safely.

More than half of all dogs and cats in shelters were received as strays, but that doesn’t mean by any stretch they’re automatically aggressive, come from abusive environments, or have medical challenges. What’s much more important than an animal’s history is its current behavior and medical status. This information is typically well-known and shared by shelter staff who’ve been caring for the animal.

Myth: Shelter animals are not as clean as pet store animals.

Not only is this untrue, but the conditions of many breeding facilities or puppy mills (which supply pet stores that sell dogs) are nothing short of horrific. Puppy mill operators may fail to remove sick dogs from their breeding pools. As a result, puppies from puppy mills sometimes come with congenital and hereditary conditions including epilepsy, heart disease, kidney disease, and respiratory disorders.

Puppies born in puppy mills are usually removed from their mothers at just six weeks of age, denying them critical socialization, and housed in overcrowded and unsanitary wire-floored cages, without adequate veterinary care, food or water. Make no mistake: Anything purchased at a pet store that sells animals—even supplies—is keeping this vicious industry in business.

Myth: Older cats and dogs will not bond with new owners.

Again, simply untrue. Age is not a determining factor in an animal’s affection toward humans or its ability to bond with them. Just ask anyone who’s adopted an older pet, visit a shelter and ask to see their older animals, or simply look into the face of an older dog or cat. Organizations like Susie’s Senior Dogs are trying hard to connect more senior animals with loving homes. Believe me, they’re ready for you.

Myth: A shelter animal should never be given as a gift.

To the uninformed, this may makes sense, but data shows otherwise. A scientific study we published last October found that 96 percent of people who received pets as gifts reported it either increased or had no negative impact on their attachment to that pet. Also, 86 percent of the pets in the study are still in their homes, a percentage roughly equivalent to that in standard adoption.

The survey also showed no difference in attachment based on whether the gift was a surprise or known in advance. This is supported by previous studies conducted in the 1990s and 2000, which found that pets acquired as gifts are actually less likely to be relinquished than pets acquired directly by an individual owner.

This misconception is particularly harmful because it not only prevents shelter animals from going into loving homes, but may drive potential adopters toward pet stores that almost always get their inventory from puppy mills.

Myth: Adopting big or very strong dogs is a bad idea if you have little children.

There’s no evidence that big dogs are more likely than small dogs to harm children. Chances are, you already know some very sweet big dogs, and if you don’t, the ASPCA or your local shelter would be happy to introduce youto one.

There’s been some recent debate about the inherent natures of pit bulls in particular, but again, there’s no evidence to show that pit bulls are more likely to cause harm to humans than any other breed. A dog's—any dog’s—behavior is a function of many factors, including breeding, socialization, training, environment and treatment by owners.

Myth: Getting animals from breeders is safer because the breeders know the animal’s bloodline and family history.

First know that, as a result of their breeding, purebred dogs very often have genetic disorders and medical issue predispositions, certainly no less often than shelter dogs. Also, while bloodlines and histories are useful tools to assess an animal’s value, they are limited in terms of predicting behavior. On the other hand, shelters are motivated to save lives and make strong matches. Some use science and sophisticated tools to appropriately pair up animals and owners, and are happy to share everything they know about each animal.

Good breeders are focused not on profit, but on the health and welfare of the individual animals they handle, and we applaud that. But the plain truth is you’re helping to save and protect more lives if you make adoption your first option, so please match your open home and open heart with an open mind.

Rodeo is popular throughout the western United States and is the official state sport of Wyoming, South Dakota, and Texas. While “entertaining” the audience, animals are physically provoked in order to make the cowboys appear more impressive. However, spectators may be unaware of the suffering that the animals endure as the price of entertainment.

“Tools of Torment”

In order to elicit certain behaviors from the animals, rodeos use various tools to make animals appear more aggressive than they really are.

Such tools include the “hotshot,” an electric prod used on the animal while captive in the chute. The intense pain scares the animal into displaying abnormally dramatic reactions. Other tools include metal spurs and “bucking straps” that burn the animal’s abdomen and groin area and cause him to “buck” and can lead to back and leg injuries.

The Events

Calf Roping: a mounted rider yanks a calf into the air by her neck, slams her into the ground, and ties her legs together. During this performance, calves may cry out (if they can breathe), defecate from fear and stress, and suffer neck injuries and death.

Steer Busting: a rider ropes a steer with such force the steer flips in the air. The injury and death rates are so high that the Nevada State Veterinarian has condemned the practice.

Steer Wrestling: in this event the steer endures a high level of stress and can suffer ripped tendons, sprains and bruising, and even a broken neck.

Bull Riding and Saddle Bronc Riding: bucking straps, electric prods, and spurs are used to hurt the animal and aggravate him into reacting more roughly than he would naturally.

Injury, Pain, and Death

Rodeos mean constant trauma for the animals forced to participate. They suffer broken ribs, backs, and legs, torn tails, punctured lungs, internal organ damage, ripped tendons, torn ligaments, snapped necks, and agonizing deaths.

Animals are often transported over long distances in hot and overcrowded trucks and trailers. The official rules of the PRCA permit them to be confined during transport for as long as 24 hours without being fed or watered. The injuries are not confined to the rodeos themselves. For instance, during practice sessions, a calf may be roped repeatedly, until the calf suffers injuries that require her replacement.

Despite increased publicity about animal cruelty, the PRCA has not improved animal safety. The penalties for violating regulations are not severe enough to deter abuse and are miniscule in comparison with the large rodeo cash prizes at stake.

Does the Law Protect Animals Used in Rodeos?

The federal Animal Welfare Act exempts rodeos from the protections it provides to animals. Some states exempt rodeos from their anti-cruelty statutes, while other states defer to clearly inadequate PRCA regulations to judge whether animal cruelty has occurred in rodeos.

On the other hand, some states have taken measures to protect animals used in rodeos:

• California bans the use of electric prods while animals are in the holding chutes, unless necessary to protect participants or spectators. A licensed veterinarian must either be present at all times or on-call and able to arrive at the rodeo within one hour after a determination has been made that there is an injury requiring veterinary treatment. The veterinarian must submit a brief report of any injury requiring veterinary treatment to the Veterinary Medical Board within 48 hours of the conclusion of the rodeo.
• Rhode Island has banned tie-down roping and other practices but allows breakaway calf roping, bareback riding, saddle bronc riding, bull riding, steer wrestling, team riding, barrel racing, team roping, wild horse racing, chuckwagon racing, quarter horse races, mounted flag races, trail riding events, and obstacle course and pole bending events. Anyone conducting a rodeo must notify the local animal control officer in advance of the event. A licensed veterinarian with complete authority over the treatment and use of injured rodeo animals must be present during the event.
• Nevada has banned horse tripping.
• Ohio has banned the use of twisted wire, unpadded bucking straps, unpadded flank straps, and prods.
• Wisconsin prohibits the use of certain tools of torment, including a bristle bur, tack bur, electric prod, or prod with nails, tacks, and sharp points.

In addition, several cities and local governments have taken steps to protect animals used in rodeos:

• Pittsburgh, Pa. prohibits electric prods or shocking devices, flank or bucking straps, wire tie-downs, and sharpened or fixed spurs or rowels. Rodeos must allow humane agents to access any areas where animals are present. A licensed veterinarian with complete authority over the treatment of rodeo animals must be present for the entirety of any rodeo or related activities.
• Montgomery, N.J. prohibits prods such as pointed sticks at all times, as well as sharpened spurs or rowels. Rodeos must provide access to certified animal control officers to enforce compliance with animal protection ordinances. Rodeos must notify the state SPCA that an officer may attend and monitor the rodeo.
• Charles, Ill. has banned the use of electric prods while an animal is in the holding shoot unless necessary to protect participants and spectators.
• Southampton, N.Y. has banned the use of electric prods or shocking devices, flank or bucking straps, wire tie-downs, sharpened spurs, bull hooks and bullwhips, or any device that is likely to cause physical injury, pain, or suffering. An animal may not be made to perform any act that is inherently dangerous, unnatural, or likely to injure the animal. An animal must have proof of required vaccinations or a valid certificate of health from a licensed veterinarian. Animals must be free of any outward signs of injury, illness, or disease for the term of the display or exhibit.
• Baltimore County, Md. prohibits electrical prods or shocking devices at rodeos except for the herding or managing of livestock. The County has also banned bullfighting. A state-approved veterinarian must attend every rodeo or similar event.
• Some jurisdictions in which rodeos are nearly banned or strictly limitedinclude:
  • Pittsburgh, Pa. prohibits any practice or technique or any device that is likely to cause physical injury, torment, or suffering in animals used in rodeos, effectively banning rodeos from the city.
  • San Francisco, Calif. requires rodeos to obtain a permit. The City allows only “humane rodeo events” and specifically prohibits “events such as greased pig contests” and events that “utilize cattle prods, unfleeced flank straps for cattle or flank straps without sheepskin for horses.”
  • Pasadena, Calif. has banned rodeos on public property.
  • Fort Wayne, Ind., prohibits any event or concession that involves contests between humans and non-human animals, unless the city issues a permit following a review of the safety, well-being, and comfort of the participating animals and public.
  • Greenburgh, N.Y. has banned rodeos on any town property.

• Internationally, rodeo is banned in the United Kingdom and the Netherlands. Many other countries prohibit certain events.
• Vancouver, Canada prohibits a number of rodeo activities central to a professional rodeo, including calf or goat roping or tie-down roping, horse tripping, steer busting, steer wrestling, the use of shocking devices such as electric prods, the use of bucking straps, and the use sticks, whips, spurs, and wire tie-downs. These prohibitions effectively ban rodeos from the city.

What Is ALDF Doing to Protect Animals Used in Rodeos?

ALDF has sued California Rodeo Salinas, the state’s largest rodeo, on behalf of Showing Animals Respect and Kindness (SHARK), an international non-profit organization that is dedicated to protecting animals from neglect, abuse, and cruelty.

The suit alleges that California Rodeo Salinas engages in unlawful business practices by regularly failing to report animal injuries to the California Veterinary Medical Board as required by state law.

SHARK has documented a pattern of consistent and repeated underreporting of animal injuries at California Rodeo Salinas. Over a recent two-year period, for instance, SHARK documented ten times the number of injuries requiring veterinary treatment than the defendants reported.

Check this space for updates on this pending litigation.

What You Can Do to Help

• Do not attend rodeo events.
• Ask local authorities to verify that proper rodeo permits have been obtained.
• Demonstrate and distribute leaflets at the gates of the events.
• Write letters to sponsors of the events and boycott their businesses.
• Contact your local law enforcement agency or humane society and ask them to ensure rodeos follow local and state laws regarding the humane treatment of animals.
• Educate family and friends about the animal welfare problems and safety concerns related to rodeo events.
• Lobby your representatives to institute a state or local ban on calf roping (this is an event in which cruelty is most easily documented). Since most rodeo circuits require calf roping, eliminating it can result in the overall elimination of rodeos.
• Fight for state and federal laws that protect animals and raise the standards of care.

Welcome to Bark & Wag’s 15 Minute Vet Talk – I am your host Polly ReQua

Today we are talking to Dr. Meredith Rives, Owner of Natural Touch Veterinary Care in Evanston, IL about puppy mills and what we can do to stop the madness.

Welcome Merry…..Please tell us about puppy mills and how we can stop this awful business.

Buyer Beware: The Problem with Puppy Mills

Choosing to bring a new canine companion into your life is an exciting but involved decision-making process, especially when deciding where to get one. You might have concerns about "puppy mills"  and want to know how to steer clear of them. Perhaps you don't even know what these are and need more information.

As you begin your research, here are some things to consider:

Puppy mills

Puppy mills are commercial breeding facilities that mass-produce dogs (and cats in cat mills) for sale through pet stores, or directly to consumers through classified ads or the Internet. Roughly 90 percent of puppies in pet stores come from puppy mills. Many retailers who buy animals from such facilities take the wholesaler's word that the animals are happy and healthy without seeing for themselves.

In most states, these commercial breeding kennels can legally keep hundreds of dogs in cages their entire lives, for the sole purpose of continuously churning out puppies. The animals produced range from purebreds to any number of the latest "designer" mixed breeds. Cat breeding occurs under similar conditions to supply pet stores with kittens.

Animals in puppy mills are treated like cash crops

• They are confined to squalid, overcrowded cages with minimal shelter from extreme weather and no choice but to sit and sleep in their own excrement.
• Animals suffer from malnutrition or starvation due to inadequate or unsanitary food and water.
• Sick or dying animals receive little or no veterinary care.
• Adult animals are continuously bred until they can no longer produce, then destroyed or discarded.
• Kittens and puppies are taken from their mothers at such an early age; many suffer from serious behavior problems.

Look for these red flags:

• The seller has many types of purebreds or "designer" hybrid breeds being sold at less than six weeks old.
• Breeders who are reluctant to show potential customers the entire premises on which animals are being bred and kept.
• Breeders who don't ask a lot of questions of potential buyers.
• No guarantees-responsible breeders make a commitment to take back the pet at anytime during the animal's life, no matter the reason.

Because puppy mills and backyard breeders choose profit over animal welfare, their animals typically do not receive proper veterinary care. Animals may seem healthy at first but later show issues like congenital eye and hip defects, parasites or even the deadly Parvovirus.

Taking homes away

When puppy mills and backyard breeders flood the market with animals, they reduce homes available for animals from reputable establishments, shelters and rescue groups. Every year, more than 150,000 cats and dogs enter shelters in Washington State-6 to 8 million animals enter shelters nationwide. Sadly, only about 15 percent of people with pets in the U.S. adopted them from a shelter or rescue group, leaving so many deserving pets left behind.

Help stop the suffering by taking these steps:

1. Be a responsible, informed consumer-if you do buy from a breeder, go to a reputable one who: 
   
2. • Will show you where the dogs spend their time and introduces you to the puppy's parents.
   • Explains the puppy's medical history, including vaccines, and gives you their veterinarian's contact info.
   • Doesn't have puppies available year-round, yet may keep a waiting list for interested people.
   • Asks about your family's lifestyle, why you want a dog, and your care and training plans for the puppy.
   • Doesn't use pressure sales tactics.
3. Adopt from a shelter or breed-specific rescue group near you-typically 25% of the animals in shelters are purebred.
4. Support laws that protect animals from puppy mill cruelty-tell your elected officials you support laws which cap the number of animals a person can own and breed, and establish care standards for exercise, housing, access to food and water and regular veterinary care.
5. Urge your local pet store to support shelters-animals are often used to draw consumers into stores. Encourage pet stores to promote shelter animals for adoption instead of replenishing their supply through questionable sources.
6. Donate pet supplies to local shelters to help those rescued from the puppy mills and many other homeless animals in need.
   • CAPS-web.org (Companion Animal Protection Society)
   • No Pet Store Puppies (ASPCA)
   • PrisonersOfGreed.org
   • StopPuppyMills.com (The Humane Society of the United States)
7. Learn more at:

Whether you're having a few friends over for dinner or hosting a large family get-together, parties can be stressful for pet parents. The last thing you need is to discover your pet nose-deep in a pitcher of spiked punch.

Sure, alcohol toxicity in pets is very rare. “We don’t see much of this in vet medicine because alcohol tends to be distasteful to most animals,” says Dr. Steven Friedenberg, an assistant professor in the department of veterinary clinical sciences at the University of Minnesota College of Veterinary Medicine. “They don’t regularly seek this out, and most owners don’t deliberately feed their animals alcohol.”

But during a party or social gathering, sometimes things can get out of your (or your pet’s) control. If your pet does get into alcohol, it can affect him in the same way it affects humans—either get him a little buzzed or, in the most extreme cases, cause him to wind up in the hospital. Here’s what to know about your pet’s alcohol risks.

It Comes Down to Alcohol Content

Rather than the type of alcohol your pet consumes, what you should really be concerned with is how much they get into. “We have this mythos in humans like, ‘I can’t drink tequila,’ or, ‘Rum is really bad for me,’” says Dr. Christine Rutter, a clinical assistant professor in the department of small animal clinical sciences in the College of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences at Texas A&M University. “You may have a reaction to something specific in that product, but pound for pound, it’s the ethanol that gets you.”

The same can be applied to pets. But since most pets are much smaller than humans, a smaller dose of alcohol can prove more dangerous to them than it would be to us. “A dog weighs substantially less and is not used to consuming alcohol,” says Rutter. “So processes that break down alcohol are not regulated in a dog the same way as a person who consumes alcohol once in a while.”

If you do find your dog licking up the last remains of a bottle, worry about the strength of alcohol the same way you would if it were a friend who might have drunk too much. Light beers are the least dangerous since their alcohol content is less, followed by craft beers, wine, hard liquors, and finally, grain alcohols like Everclear. And since ethanol is what’s truly dangerous to animals, also be on the lookout for pets getting into cleaning products, mouthwash, or hand sanitizer, some of which have ethanol in them.

Although wine does have grapes in it, which can be extremely dangerous to dogs, there’s no research showing that wine is more dangerous to dogs than other types of alcohol, says Rutter. Rather, it once again all boils down to just how much alcohol your pooch got into.

Be Especially Cautious of Certain Ingredients

Although an animal won’t be likely to take more than one sip of a glass of wine or a scotch on the rocks, certain mixed drinks or alcohol-based cakes could be sweet enough or have ingredients that appeal to animals. And sometimes these other ingredients (chocolate, grapes, raisins, or macadamia nuts, for example) are dangerous in and of themselves. You should also be on the lookout for hidden sources of alcohol, like certain flavorings, including vanilla and almond, and for spices that might contain essential oils, like cinnamon. “That can be irritating to the gastrointestinal tract,” says Rutter.

Notice the Signs of Alcohol Toxicity

When it comes to alcohol toxicity in pets, the signs usually appear the same as they would in humans. “Alcohol poisoning would present similarly as it might present in people,” says Friedenberg. “So there could be gastrointestinal upset. They might vomit or become nauseated, and they can get wobbly.” Other symptoms can include increased thirst and urination, lethargy, disorientation, and, in severe cases, you might notice muscle tremors, paralysis, extremely slow and shallow breathing, seizures, and your pet may lose consciousness, adds Dr. Jennifer Coates, veterinary advisor for petMD.

In mild cases of alcohol exposure, pets generally recover with time and no other treatment, Coates says. “Simply let them ‘sleep it off’ in a safe environment,” she says. “But if you think that your pet could have ingested a large amount of alcohol or is starting to have worrisome clinical signs, seek out immediate veterinary care.” The vet can hospitalize your pet if need be while giving him intravenous fluids and any other treatment that might be necessary.

Although an animal getting alcohol toxicity to the extent of requiring hospitalization is extremely rare, just like for you, parties and family gatherings can be overwhelming for your pet. The holiday season can be especially stressful. “Even if you have an amazingly well-behaved dog, the holidays are full of change in the environment,” says Rutter. Whether it be the introduction of a Christmas tree into your house or more people running around than usual, environmental changes can cause anxiety in your pet.

That, in turn, can cause them to act in ways they normally wouldn’t, like table surfing or digging in the trash for leftovers. So, avoid any dangerous run-ins for your pet by keeping any risky food or drinks out of their reach. “Even a good dog during stressful times will act up,” says Rutter.

Ellie is an animal communicator and healing expert who consults with people, animal rescues, and sanctuaries all over the world on how to save, heal, and treat their own animals. 

Ellie is a powerful speaker and the author of “My Gentle Barn: Creating a sanctuary where animals heal, and children learn to hope.” Ellie has appeared on some of the most influential media outlets including The Ellen Show, People Magazine, Life Magazine, Animal Planet, The Huffington Post, Turning point, Women’s World, NBC, CBS, ABC, PBS, The NY Times, and many more. 

Ellie has been saving, rehabilitating and communicating with animals since she was a child. From the age of seven Ellie heard the distress calls of baby birds, injured wildlife, and orphaned animals and would bring them home to heal them.  By age 11 Ellie was working with families in her community to solve behavioral and training issues for their dogs.

As a young adult, Ellie founded "Rover Rescue" where she focused on taking dogs and cats from high kill shelters deemed unadoptable. By communicating and connecting with the animals, Ellie was able to resolve their issues and place them into forever homes. During her time with Rover Rescue Ellie saved over 500 dogs and cats.

Later Ellie discovered a petting zoo and was overwhelmed by the animals desperate pleas for help. Not able to walk away, Ellie ended up bringing those broken farm animals home to her half acre backyard. She listened as they recounted their tails of abuse and neglect and gave them everything they needed to heal. This made Ellie want to do more.

Ellie founded The Gentle Barn in 1999, a nonprofit organization that rescues and rehabilitates not only dogs and cats, but horses, cows, pigs, goats, sheep, chickens, turkeys, peacocks, emus, llamas, and donkeys. Ellie formulated her own "Gentle Healing" method, using a combination of animal communication, energy healing, holistic healing, holding therapy, and western medicine to heal animals no one else would take and had nowhere else to go. Ellie specializes in healing puppies with Parvo, calves from veal crates, and orphaned animals of all kinds. 

Ellie and her husband Jay Weiner have brought The Gentle Barn national and now have three Gentle Barn locations, in California, in Missouri and in Tennessee. The Gentle Barn is one of the largest and most beloved farm animal sanctuaries in the world. It is their goal to be the voice for animals, share their stories, and open the hearts of humanity towards all living beings. For more information about The Gentle Barn, please visit: www.gentlebarn.org

Back The Blue K-9 Force became a 501c3 in March of 2016.  We worked with K-9s from several different departments around Metro Denver.   We purchased with donated funds 15 K-9s.  Two of the SRO dogs K-9s Zeke and Riley are included in that number.  We wanted to become involved with the SRO program when we learned about how therapy dogs calm kids with special needs in times of crisis and provide comfort to all the students.

The goal is to raise funds and awareness of why School Resource Therapy K-9s are needed.To help raise money to purchase more SRO dogs as well as to cover their medical and needed safety gear.  Also, to help with the apprehension, narcotics, explosive, and electronics detection K-9s who often partner with the SRO dogs.  

Join us for a pet friendly 5k trail run/walk to spread mental health awareness and PAWSitivity in schools with the help of more therapy K9’s like Rex. 

Visit RexRun.com to sign up for this great event. 

Run/Walk Info:

Come celebrate National Dog Day at our family fun 5K Trail run/walk event

                                                          on August 26th! 

This is a year of celebration! Therapy K-9 Rex, the inspiration of RexRun For PAWSitivity 2023 was joined by his brother, Zeke and his nephew, Riley! In April, therapy K-9's Bear and Otis joined the pack!

Come and join us in celebrating National Dog Day with a family fun filled day! Our 5K Trail run begins at 8am and is followed by the 5K Trail walk (with your dog) and a Kids Run. After that, you can enjoy a delicious pancake breakfast at the Flippin' Flapjacks food truck! All day long, we will have K-9 training demonstrations and the ASCO Mounted Patrol will gallop in! Don't miss our dog costume contest followed by a silent and live auction! The Kids Zone will have face painting and a balloon artist! The vendors in the Marketplace will be handing out giveaways throughout the event!

K-9 Rex is a two-year-old black Labrador therapy dog. He and his fellow K-9's with their handlers go to local schools to primarily offer comfort to students with special needs. Many are in crisis and are dealing with stress, anxiety and depression. All net profits go to the law enforcement K-9's through the 501(c)3 nonprofit, Back The Blue K-9 Force, to purchase K-9's and their protective gear as well as provide funding for their medical needs. Apprehension K-9's trained in narcotics, explosives, and electronics detection, are also funded by Back The Blue K-9 Force. Several of the K-9's will be at RexRun For PAWSitivity 2023!

Four registrations are available this year! 

• 8 am - 5K Trail Run 
• 8:30 am - 5K Trail Walk and bring your dogs!
• 9:00 am -1-mile Kids Trail Run/Walk
• Virtual Run/Walk is open anytime from August 1st to September 1st.

Kennel cough in dogs

Today we are talking to Carrie Leigh who designs custom pet products like doggy tees, beds, water bowls and more at Get It Made in Chicago

Welcome Carrie. Thank you for being on the podcast.

How did Get It Made begin?

What are some of the products that you design?

Tell us about the dog bathing suit?

How do people get a hold of you?

 Shop cool and custom pet products by Get It Made:

https://www.coolandcustom.com/collections/for-pet-lovers

https://www.beananimallistener.com/

Reach out to Cindy for a reading on your pet.

Office Hours:

Monday - Wednesday:  10:00 AM - 6:00 PM
Tuesday - Thursday : 12:00 PM - 8:00 PM
Friday: 10:00 AM - 3:00 PM

Please call my office at 541-658-5062. If it is during business hours, I might be working with a client and am not accepting calls.  I will return your call during my next open spot.

If you call after hours, please feel free to leave me a message and be sure to leave your Name, Best Number to reach you back on, and your time zone so I know when is appropriate to call you back. I will return their call during my regular business hours.

“Putting animals and people together in a way that is healing for both” is the core mission of Shepherd’s Rest Goat and Sheep Rescue. Through the Animal Assisted Therapy Program, we believe we can create an impact that echoes in the lives of our clients far beyond the boundaries of the rescue.

Please visit https://www.shepherdsrestrescue.com

Summit Lost Pet Rescue is an animal protection and welfare organization devoted to finding lost pets in Summit County Colorado and reuniting them with their owners.

They are 100% donation based and donations go directly toward resources and supplies to help find lost pets.

Summary of Services

• Educate the community about how to avoid losing or becoming separated from their pets.

• Educate the community about what steps to take once they have lost their pet(s).

• Educate the community about what to do/what not to do when spotting lost or stray pets.

• Once a pet has been deemed to have been “lost” the charity will communicate with the owner to share calming signals techniques and gather information on the lost pet.  If the pet is lost in Summit County, then we organize a team of volunteers to: hang signs, create flyers, purchase bait food and set traps, set out comfort stations & pet-beds, set up game-cameras, as well as organize search parties to look for lost pets.  

• If the pet is lost outside of Summit County, then we can consult remotely via phone, text or facebook messenger with the owners.

• Post lost pets to various social media along with updates and what to do/not do to help locate lost pets.

• Maintain internet website as well as social media sites to educate and inform the public.

Confusion, disorientation, dogzheimers. Call it what you will, but canine dementia (known clinically as canine cognitive dysfunction) can be a serious problem. Just like humans, dogs can suffer from many of the same symptoms:

• Sleep-wake cycle disturbances
• Generalized anxiety
• Lower threshold for aggression
• Decreased activity levels
• Inappropriate vocalization (howling, barking or whining)
• Repetitive behaviors (pacing)
• Elimination disorders
• Staring at walls
• Fewer social interactions
• Disorientation (getting “lost” in the house)

But getting old and loopy doesn’t have to be as stressful as all that — not for dogs lucky enough to be cared for by owners willing to learn what it takes to mitigate the effects of dementia as they age.

Here’s how, in six mostly simple steps:

1. Recognize Symptoms Early

The early signs of canine cognitive dysfunction can be subtle and difficult to detect. They can even be misinterpreted as "just getting old." However, early recognition and intervention are helpful. Owners should be on the lookout for mild versions of the symptoms listed above.

2. Pay Attention to Changes in Hearing and Vision

Sensory deficiencies, such as hearing and vision loss, can cause anxiety for some pets — and their owners. When pets lose these faculties, they can become disoriented far more easily. Simple things, like failing to hear an owner’s call, can make daily life challenging for aging pets and their owners.

But many pets with hearing deficits can be trained to recognize hand signals, and pets with limited vision can often learn their way around, as long as furniture and other objects remain in the same place.

Although there’s not much we can do about hearing loss in most cases, we have options for treating some diseases of the aging eye. Cataracts, for example, are super common and highly treatable. I personally recommend surgery for pets who have cataracts with or without dementia. But you should ask your vet if this is the best option for your dog.

3. Stick to a Strict Schedule

Adhering to a set schedule when it comes to feeding, walking, turning lights on and off, and bedtime can be excellent therapy for confused pets. It’s orienting.

4. Manage Anxiety

Most dementia dogs display some degree of stress, especially when lost in the corner of a room or if they find themselves awake and alone in the middle of the night. Managing anxiety requires owners to know what works best for their individual dog, such as soothing music, aromatherapy or a long walk.

Additionally, I also recommend crate training early on in life, which can sometimes help curtail stress-exacerbating nighttime wanderings. Although, in some cases, it could cause further stress to the animal. If the wandering is extreme, talk to your vet about whether anti-anxiety medication may also be effective.

5. Talk to Your Vet About Dementia-Specific Drugs

For severe cases of canine dementia, veterinarians will sometimes discuss the potential benefits of dementia-specific medication that seem to reverse some of these symptoms, albeit to a minor extent for most patients.

6. Look Into a Veterinary Behaviorist

The most comprehensive approach to canine cognitive dysfunction involves the assistance of a veterinary behaviorist. These specialists can often help owners dramatically re-orient their confused and stressed-out geriatric pets.

OUR FRIENDS, CAMPING WITH DOGS, SHARE HELPFUL TIPS FOR CAMPING, HIKING AND ENJOYING THE GREAT OUTDOORS WITH FURRY FRIENDS.

Camping with Dogs is a lifestyle brand built on a community of people who love outdoor adventure shared with their beloved pets. What began as an Instagram account featuring photos of dogs exploring the outdoors with their owners has now become so much more. Connecting people around their world through a shared love, who better to gather some of the best expert tips for camping and hiking with dogs?

TIPS FOR HIKING AND CAMPING WITH DOGS FROM THE EXPERTS

1. LOOK UP THE REGULATIONS IN THE AREA OF TRAILS OR CAMPGROUNDS BEFOREHAND

Some may not allow dogs are have restrictions. Keep your dog close, or on leash because others camping may not want to be bothered with your dog, and leashing up can also protect your dog against any wildlife that may come after your furry friend, or prevent them from wrestling in the bushes that may have poisonous plants. – @west_coast_heeler_pack

2. PACK PLENTY OF WATER

It may seem like a no brainer, but make sure your dog is staying hydrated. It’s super important. Pack enough water for them if there won’t be a source of water they can safely use. Don’t let them drink salt water or from standing water! Same goes for food, make sure they have enough. Collapsible bowls are super handy. – @mirandashea24

3. KEEP YOUR DOG LEASHED

While it’s nice not to have your dog tug on a leash while hiking (unless you’ve trained them not to), there’s a few obvious reasons to have your dog on the leash. For starters, not everyone is as in love with dogs as we are and they could actually be terrified.  If you have your dog leash-less, it could make other hikers very uncomfortable. Secondly, they could become targets for or infuriate wildlife (i.e., bears). I could go on but if your dog is like either of mine (i.e., likes to stay head 20 feet and greet any human being in site), then keep them leashed. – @samanthabrookephoto

4. PROTECT THE PAWS

Not just from the snow, but from the hot ground as well. We have a pair of “cool” dog booties that we use for the summer when the dirt or cinder that we’re walking on is too hot for Jazz’s paws. In the winter we use Musher’s Secret, a wax product that you can put directly on your dog’s paws to protect their fur from balling up in the snow. We find that a lot of booties fall off of Jazz (because he loves hopping through the fresh powder) so the wax is a great alternative for the winter. – @jazz.paws

5. BRING A TENT WITH LOTS OF SPACE

Get a tent with double entries and vestibules. If you have a smaller tent, you can put your packs and gear under one vestibule, and a little sleeping pad for your dog to sleep in the other one. We have a shorthair dog and prefer to keep him in our tent on cold nights, but in the summer the vestibule lets us enjoy more room. – @captainshark

6. DON’T LET RAINY DAYS DAMPEN OUTDOOR PLANS

A tent can be used to provide a cozy and dry place to hangout outdoors with your pets. Another huge plus of venturing outside in the rain is that, chances are, no one else takes advantage of the day.  We found an empty beach where we could relax, have lunch, and play cards in our warm little tent – during breaks in the rain, the pups could roam free without us worrying about them bothering other people.  It was a super lovely day, rain and all. – @nancythebeat

7. PACK A BRUSH/COMB

Here in the desert I always make sure I have my comb and leatherman tool cause more than likely my pup will have an encounter with a colla cactus. Even if he isn’t near one, the spines litter the desert all year long. – @dustydesertdogs

8. PACK TOYS

Bring your dog’s favorite toy with you. It will help ease any anxieties he may have and help him feel more comfortable in his “home away from home.” – @alexborsuk

9. PET FIRST AID

It’s always handy to have pet first aid knowledge. There are courses out there that are great to help build current knowledge or for those who don’t know where to start. Having a basic first aid guide book is also really handy to include in a first aid kit. You can get away with having a regular first aid kit and adding a few things to make it more accommodating to pets, such as, iodine for cleaning wounds, wax paw protector for dry pads, or to be used as a barrier for extreme conditions, and a tick remover. Liquid bandages are helpful for cuts. I also included dog boots and tongue suppressors that can be used as a splint. – @west_coast_heeler_pack

By KOA

CUDDLY helps give all animals a healthy life and a loving home. We enable animal rescues to create fundraisers and wishlists to support animals in their care. Through CUDDLY, animal lovers can purchase and give in a modern, transparent way. With over 2,000+ animal welfare organizations on board, CUDDLY's mission is to help save as many animals globally through community, innovation, and creativity. As a for-good startup, we believe animals often "rescue" us. And it is our obligation to support those who do not have a voice. As a company, we believe the best way for us to make an impact is by providing the "business" tools, namely fundraising, marketing, and a valuable community, to animal-focused non-profits so that they can fulfill their potential and continue to do good.

Symptoms and Types of Rabies in Dogs

• Pica
• Fever
• Seizures
• Paralysis
• Hydrophobia
• Jaw is dropped
• Inability to swallow
• Change in tone of bark
• Muscular lack of coordination
• Unusual shyness or aggression
• Excessive excitability
• Constant irritability/changes in attitude and behavior
• Paralysis in the mandible and larynx
• Excessive salivation (hypersalivation), or frothy saliva

Causes of Canine Rabies

Diagnosing Rabies in Dogs

Schedule time for a discovery call or we can come to you! You want to learn more. We want to get to know you, your dog, and your needs.

We give you a total run-through of your dog's hike day and what to expect--

• Weekly Hikes -- Benefits & Rundown
• Pick-up & Drop-off Schedule
• Trails

Our meet & greet fits conveniently into your schedule. We have availability before and after working hours, and on weekends.

This is the perfect time to ask questions, get to know us, and gain comfort on how Adventure Pup Wellness helps dog owners give their dog the best care.

GET STARTED or call 720.839.4264

Welcome to Bark & Wag 15 minute Vet Talk – I am your host Polly ReQua

Today we are talking to one of our favorite vets, Dr. Susan McMillan, owner of Vet to Pet Mobile Veterinary Service in Burlington, Vermont as we discuss puppy socialization.

How to Socialize Your Puppy

One of the most valuable lessons you can teach your puppy is that the world is a safe place, with kind humans and friendly dogs and other animals. The act of exposing your puppy to the world is called socialization. Many puppy owners have heard that this is important but really don’t know how to go about doing it correctly. If you do it right, you’ll help your puppy grow up to be confident and outgoing. If it’s done wrong, you can inadvertently create a frightened, aggressive puppy.

A critical time for your puppy’s learning is from birth to 16 weeks of age. During this time, puppies can absorb a great deal of information, but they are also very vulnerable to bad experiences. Puppies who are not properly exposed to different types of people and other animals can find them very startling or frightening when they do finally encounter them at an older age. They may react by growling, cowering, or even biting. But if they have positive experiences with people and animals before they turn 16 weeks of age, they are less likely to be afraid of them later.

Soon after you bring your puppy home (preferably no younger than eight weeks of age), it’s time to start your socialization training program. 

Protecting Your Puppy’s Health

Most puppies will not get all their shots until they are 15 to 16 weeks of age. Some breeders and veterinarians recommend an even more extended schedule. It’s very important that you do not expose your puppy to dangerous diseases until she’s had vaccinations to protect her. Puppies can get diseases by walking where sick dogs have been and by picking up traces of feces or other bodily fluids. Some viruses, such as the parvovirus, are extremely durable and contagious, and it only takes a small amount of exposure to infect your puppy. How do you prevent exposure? Do not let your puppy walk in public places. This means that you should not let your puppy walk in the neighborhood or in public parks until she has had all her shots. If you must take your puppy to these places, carry her. Of course, this will be easier with a Maltese puppy than it will be with an English Mastiff, but it’s up to you to keep your puppy safe. The need to keep your puppy safe from disease can compete with the need to socialize her. If the ideal window for socialization is up to 16 weeks, and your puppy will not complete her shot series before then, how can you expose her to the world? Here’s how to do it safely:

• Invite friends and family to your house. If your puppy can’t get out, bring the people in! Ask them to remove their shoes before coming into your home just in case they’ve stepped in something that can cause your puppy harm.
• Invite safe, friendly dogs to your home. If you have friends who have suitable dogs for your puppy to meet, invite them to come play at your place.
• Only visit safe houses. If you have friends who have a suitable, healthy dog who would play well with your puppy, visit their homes. This is safer than letting your puppy walk in a public park or in a neighborhood where you don’t know the dogs who have been there. Be sure to carry your puppy from the car into your friend’s home.
• Do not let your puppy run up to dogs you don’t know, especially at the veterinarian’s office. Dogs who visit the veterinarian may be sick. If you let your puppy greet them, you could be exposing her to a contagious disease. Carry your young puppy into the veterinarian’s office, and keep her in your lap (or in her crate) until her immune system is protected.

These simple steps will allow you to socialize your puppy while minimizing exposure to disease. 

Puppy Socialization with People

Here are some guidelines for positive socialization experiences with people:

• Pick different people.Puppies should be exposed to people of different genders, different ethnicities, different ages, different shapes and sizes. The more variety you introduce, the quicker she will learn that variety is the spice of life!
• Pick the right people. Make sure that everyone you choose to interact with your puppy knows how to do so in a positive manner. If children cannot hold or pet your puppy correctly, they should not interact with her. If an adult will be rough with your puppy, he should not interact with her. Remember, a negative experience during this critical time can make your puppy afraid.

Once you have the right people in place, here are some fun socialization games to play. 

Pass the Puppy

Divide your puppy’s meal of kibble into small plastic bags, one bag for each person visiting. Before starting the game, if necessary explain to everyone how to properly hold the puppy by supporting her rear end. The first person then picks up the puppy and gives her a piece of kibble. The person touches one of her paws, gives her a piece of kibble. Touches another paw, gives a piece of kibble. Touches her ears, gives a piece of kibble. Touches her tail, gives a piece of kibble. Looks at her teeth, gives a piece of kibble. Then the person passes the puppy on to the next person, who goes through the same routine. This game teaches your puppy that it’s rewarding to have people touch her all over her body. 

Puppy Recalls

Divide your puppy’s meal of kibble into small plastic bags, one bag for each person visiting. Have everyone sit in a circle on the floor, with the puppy in the center of the circle. One person calls the puppy to come and holds out the piece of kibble. When the puppy goes to the person, she gets the kibble and lots of petting and praising. Then someone else in the circle repeats the routine. This game teaches your puppy that it’s rewarding to approach people. 

Puppy Socialization with Other Dogs

with future dogs you have at home, it’s important to expose her to different dogs at an early age so that she learns to get along with them properly. Puppies who are not socialized with other dogs sometimes never learn to “speak dog” and have fear or aggression problems with members of their own species. It’s very important to only pick safe dogs to interact with your puppy so that she has positive experiences. If you have a tiny 3-pound (1.4-kg) Yorkshire Terrier, it’s not a good idea to let her play with a bouncy 30-pound (13.6-kg) Labrador Retriever puppy. The Lab puppy could hurt your Yorkie without meaning to; the size difference is just too great. Now, if it’s an older Labrador Retriever with a proven history of being safe and gentle around young puppies, it may be perfectly fine. Just be sure that you know the other dog well before risking injury. 

Socialization: What Not to Do

All socialization is not good socialization. Bad experiences at an early age can make negative impressions for years to come. Sometimes, certain situations are just too much for your puppy. If she is having a good time, she will look the part. Her ears will be up, her eyes will be bright, and she may wag her tail or whole body and actively seek interaction. If your puppy is not enjoying herself, learn to recognize her signs of stress to avoid causing emotional harm: 

• cowering or clinging
• ears down and back
• lip licking
• sleeping (all young puppies take frequent naps, but if you find your puppy sleeping a lot when you have her out or at a busy event, she may actually be shutting down)
• tail tucking
• turning the head or body away from people who approach
• yawning

For example, let’s say you take your puppy to your child’s soccer game. You see that she’s flinching at the loudspeaker and getting a bit clingy. She starts to whine. Your child’s team rushes around her to pet her. She licks her lips, turns her head away, and yawns. She tries to crawl in your lap or under the bleachers. These signs of stress mean that your puppy is not having a good socialization experience. You may actually be teaching her that children, large groups of people, or playing fields are cause for worry. Forcing her to remain there or hoping she’ll get used to it might only make things worse. If you see signs of stress in your puppy, immediately remove her from the situation until she relaxes. Take it much slower with your puppy, and gradually get her used to this level of stimulation.

Visit https://yourenergyhealer.com/ to learn more

3 Vet-Recommended Supplements For Senior Dogs

Dr. Laura Brown, owner of Greentree Animal Hospital in Libertyville, IL discusses ear infections. Sponsored by BarkBox. Free extra month of BarkBox by visiting BarkBox.com/vettalk. Please like and subscribe on iTunes, Stitcher, YouTube and iHeartRadio. 

How Can I Tell if My Dog Has an Ear Infection?

The following symptoms may indicate that your dog needs to have his ears checked by a veterinarian:

• Scratching of the ear or area around the ear
• Brown, yellow, or bloody discharge
• Odor in the ear
• Redness
• Swelling
• Crusts or scabs on inside of the outer ear
• Hair loss around the ear
• Rubbing of the ear and surrounding area on the floor or furniture
• Head shaking or head tilt
• Loss of balance
• Unusual eye movements
• Walking in circles
• Hearing loss

Francesca Arnoldy, UVM alumna and longtime birth worker, is the course developer, facilitator, and program director of the University of Vermont Larner College of Medicine’s End-of-Life Doula Professional Certificate Program. She is author of Cultivating the Doula Heart: The Essentials of Compassionate Care and leads in-person workshops about doula approaches and end-of-life wishes. Her goal is to encourage people to hold one another’s hands through life’s intensities and sacred rites of passage. She founded Contemplative Doula as a resource to help people to prepare for birth, death, and life with the doula heart. Francesca lives in quaint Hinesburg, VT with her family in a most idyllic village.

Welcome to Bark & Wag’s 15 Minute Vet Talk – I am your host Polly ReQua

Today we are talking to Dr. Laura Brown, a Veterinarian and owner of Green Tree Animal Hospital in Libertyville, IL as we discuss dental health.

Dr. Brown, thank you for taking the time to talk about dental health with our dogs.  Welcome and please let us know more about our dog’s teeth?

Vet Clinic Hygiene

Why it is important to have professional cleanings?

How often?

Why is it so important to your pet’s overall health?

How it is done?

Home Oral Hygiene

Home oral hygiene can make a tremendous difference in your dog’s comfort and health.  There are several home care oral hygiene options from which to choose, but keep in mind that anything you can do to help prevent plaque and tartar accumulation will pay big dividends. What really matters is whether or not home oral hygiene will be provided over the long haul – considerable effort applied only for a short period or only occasionally will be of no long-term benefit.

Options for home oral hygiene that have been proven to be of benefit for dogs. Combining several methods will achieve the best results.  All methods of home oral hygiene share the goal of preventing or controlling periodontal disease by minimizing plaque (bacterial film) accumulation, and preventing the mineralization of the plaque to form calculus (“tartar”).

BRUSHING and TOOTH-PASTES: Brushing your dog’s teeth is the single most effective means to maintain oral health between professional dental examinations. This makes sense because the bacterial film known as “plaque” is the cause of periodontal disease. This film is easily disrupted by the simple mechanical effect of brushing the teeth. Frequent (ideally daily) brushing is recommended to maintain optimal dental health. Almost all dogs will eventually accept brushing. The key to success is to be patient and gradual in your approach, brushing mainly the outsides of the “cheek teeth” located under the upper lip. A dog that resists brushing frequently may have painful areas in the mouth that need to be addressed.

A variety of products safe for pets are available in the marketplace. If you use a brush and a dentifrice, AVDC recommends pet-specific toothpastes. These come in flavors that dogs accept, such as poultry and seafood. Avoid human toothpastes as they often contain abrasives and high-foaming detergents that should not be swallowed or inhaled by dogs.

Toothbrushes designed for dogs are soft and angled to assist in brushing the back teeth. Some dogs prefer finger brushes. A variety of “dental wipes” containing different products are available. The single-use wipes are rubbed daily on the outside of the teeth to remove plaque.

CHLORHEXIDINE ORAL RINSE and GEL: Chlorhexidine is the most effective anti-plaque antiseptic. Chlorhexidine binds to the oral tissues and tooth surfaces, and is gradually released into the oral cavity. It is safe for pets and rarely causes problems, though it does have a bitter taste if palatability enhancers suitable for dogs are not included. Some dogs may object to the taste of products containing chlorhexidine while others accept it with no difficulty. The rinse is applied by squirting a small amount inside the cheek on each side of the mouth. The gel is applied by smearing it onto the teeth. The tongue and lips will spread the rinse or gel around the mouth.

DIETS and CHEWS:  Several “dental diets” have been shown to be of benefit in decreasing dental disease. Some employ a specific kibble design and others include a chemical anti-tartar poly-phosphate ingredient.

 Rawhide products and chew treats can be helpful if chewed daily, and some rawhide chews and biscuits contain an anti-tartar ingredient. Palatability is important – chewing every day is the ideal.Dogs are carnivores – they chew on bones in the wild. However, AVDC does not recommend cow hooves, dried natural bones or hard nylon products because they are too hard and do not mimic the effect of a dog tearing meat off a carcass. These hard products are associated with broken teeth or damaged gums.

Chew toys are only of benefit if they are played with frequently and over the long haul – you can increase the dog’s willingness to chew by smearing palatable peanut butter or soft cheese on the product.

Pet dogs should be monitored while chewing a chew treat or toy, as they may swallow large pieces, leading to a variety of digestive system disorders.

Pug Rescue of Northern California feels every pug is special and important, so we do everything we can to give these special souls the care and love they need. We take in over a hundred pugs annually. All of these pugs see vets, some for simple check ups, some for expensive procedures. Thanks to donations, we are able to continue to care for these pugs and find forever homes for them.

https://pugpros.org/donate/

Welcome to Bark & Wag 15 Minute Vet Talk – I am your host Polly ReQua

Today we are talking to Stacy Pursell, CEO/Global Executive Recruiter for Animal Health & Nutrition, Animal Science, Pet Product Industry and a Veterinary Recruiter.

Welcome Stacy…..

I am excited to have you on the podcast today to talk about employment in the animal field.

Please tell us about The Vet Recruiter and your roll?

How did your career lead you to become an animal recruiter?

If listeners are interested in any positions on your website, should they send you their resume?

The VET Recruiter -thevetrecruiter.com

You are listening to Bark & Wag 15 Minute Vet Talk and I am your host Polly ReQua.

Today we are talking with Dr. Susan McMillan, owner of Vet to Pet Mobile Veterinary Service in Burlington, Vermont to shed light on distemper.

Canine Distemper in Dogs

Canine distemper is a contagious and serious viral illness with no known cure. The disease affects dogs, and certain species of wildlife, such as raccoons, wolves, foxes, and skunks. The common house pet, the ferret, is also a carrier of this virus. Canine distemper belongs to the Morbillivirus class of viruses, and is a relative of the measles virus, which affects humans, the Rinderpest virus that affects cattle, and the Phocine virus that causes seal distemper. All are members of the Paramyxoviridae family. Young, unvaccinated puppies and non-immunized older dogs tend to be more susceptible to the disease.

Symptoms and Types of Distemper in Dogs

The virus, which is spread through the air and by direct or indirect (i.e. utensils, bedding) contact with an infected animal, initially attacks a dog’s tonsils and lymph nodes and replicates itself there for about one week. It then attacks the respiratory, urogenital, gastrointestinal, and nervous systems.

In the initial stages of Canine Distemper, the major symptoms include high fever (≥103.5 ° F, or 39.7° C), reddened eyes, and a watery discharge from the nose and eyes. An infected dog will become lethargic and tired, and will usually become anorexic. Persistent coughing, vomiting, and diarrhea may also occur. In the later stages of the disease, the virus starts attacking the other systems of the dog’s body, particularly the nervous system. The brain and spinal cord are affected and the dog may start having fits, seizures, paralysis, and attacks of hysteria.

Canine distemper is sometimes also called “hard pad disease” because certain strains of the virus can cause an abnormal enlargement or thickening of the pads of an animal’s feet. In dogs or animals with weak immune systems, death may result two to five weeks after the initial infection.

Causes of Distemper in Dogs

The disease can be acquired from improperly attenuated vaccines, though this occurs rather rarely. Bacterial infections of the respiratory or gastrointestinal systems may also increase an animal’s vulnerability to the disease. Non-immunized dogs that come into any kind of contact with an infected animal carry a particularly high risk of contracting the disease.

Diagnosis of Canine Distemper in Dogs

Canine distemper is diagnosed with biochemical tests and urine analysis, which may also reveal a reduced number of lymphocytes, the white blood cells that function in the immune system in the initial stages of the disease (lymphopenia). A serology test may identify positive antibodies, but this test cannot distinguish between vaccination antibodies and an exposure to a virulent virus. Viral antigens may be detected in urine sediment or vaginal imprints. Haired skin, nasal mucous, and the footpad epithelium may be tested for antibodies as well. Radiographs can only be used to determine whether an infected animal has contracted pneumonia. Computed tomography (CT) and magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) scans can be used to examine the brain for any lesions that may have developed.

Treatment for Distemper in Dogs

Unfortunately, there is no cure for canine distemper. Treatment for the disease, therefore, is heavily focused on alleviating the symptoms. If the animal has become anorexic or has diarrhea, intravenous supportive fluids may be given. Discharge from the eyes and nose must be cleaned away regularly. Antibiotics may be prescribed to control the symptoms caused by a secondary bacterial infection, and phenobarbitals and potassium bromide may be needed to control convulsions and seizures. There are no antiviral drugs that are effective in treating the disease.

Living and Management for Canine Distemper

In the more acute stages of canine distemper, it is necessary to monitor for development of pneumonia or dehydration from diarrhea. The central nervous system (CNS) must also be monitored because seizures and other neural disturbances may occur. A dog's chances for surviving canine distemper will depend on the strain of the virus and the strength of the dog’s immune system. Recovery is entirely possible, although seizures and other fatal disturbances to the CNS may occur two to three months after recovery. Fully recovered dogs do not spread or carry the virus.

Prevention of Distemper in Dogs

The best prevention for canine distemper is routine vaccinations and immediate isolation of infected animals. Special care must be taken to protect new-born pups from exposure, since they are especially susceptible to the disease.

 This episode is sponsored by BarkBox. Please use vettalk to receive one month free when you join for six months.

Welcome to Bark & Wag 15 Minute Vet Talk – I am your host Polly ReQua

Today we are talking to one of our favorite Vets, Dr. Laura Brown, owner of Green Tree Animal Hospital in Libertyville, IL as we discuss first aid for your pet. Everyone who shares a home with a pet should have a basic pet first-aid kit on hand.

Keep your pet's first-aid kit in your home and take it with you if you are traveling with your pet.

One way to start your kit is to buy a first-aid kit designed for people and add pet-specific items to it. You can also purchase a pet first-aid kit from a pet-supply store or catalog. But you can easily assemble your own kit by gathering the items on our lists below.

Pet-specific supplies

• Pet first-aid book
• Phone numbers: your veterinarian, the nearest emergency-veterinary clinic (along with directions!) and a poison-control center or hotline (such as the ASPCA poison-control center, which can be reached at 1-800-426-4435)
• Paperwork for your pet (in a waterproof container or bag): proof of rabies-vaccination status, copies of other important medical records and a current photo of your pet (in case he gets lost)
• Nylon leash
• Self-cling bandage (bandage that stretches and sticks to itself but not to fur—available at pet stores and from pet-supply catalogs)
• Muzzle or strips of cloth to prevent biting (don't use this if your pet is vomiting, choking, coughing or otherwise having difficulty breathing)

Basic first-aid supplies

• Absorbent gauze pads
• Adhesive tape
• Antiseptic wipes, lotion, powder or spray
• Blanket (a foil emergency blanket)
• Cotton balls or swabs
• Gauze rolls
• Hydrogen peroxide (to induce vomiting—do this only when directed by a veterinarian or a poison-control expert)
• Ice pack
• Non-latex disposable gloves
• Petroleum jelly (to lubricate the thermometer)
• Rectal thermometer (your pet's temperature should not rise above 103°F or fall below 100°F)
• Scissors (with blunt ends)
• Sterile non-stick gauze pads for bandages
• Sterile saline solution (sold at pharmacies)
• Tweezers
• A pillowcase to confine your cat for treatment
• A pet carrier

Other useful items

• Diphenhydramine (Benadryl®), if approved by a veterinarian for allergic reactions. A veterinarian must tell you the correct dosage for your pet's size.
• Ear-cleaning solution
• Expired credit card or sample credit card (from direct-mail credit-card offers) to scrape away insect stingers
• Glucose paste or corn syrup (for diabetic dogs or those with low blood sugar)
• Nail clippers
• Non-prescription antibiotic ointment
• Penlight or flashlight
• Plastic eyedropper or syringe
• Rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) to clean the thermometer
• Splints and tongue depressors
• Styptic powder or pencil (sold at veterinary hospitals, pet-supply stores, and your local pharmacy)
• Temporary identification tag (to put your local contact information on your pet's collar when you travel)
• Towels
• Needle-nosed pliers

Common-sense advice

In addition to the items listed above, include anything your veterinarian has recommended specifically for your pet.

Check the supplies in your pet's first-aid kit occasionally and replace any items that have expired.

For your family's safety, keep all medical supplies and medications out of the reach of children and pets.

Welcome to Bark & Wag 15 Minute Vet Talk – I am your host Polly ReQua

Today we are talking to Robyn Santor, owner of Spirit Dog Training in Fairfax, VT as we discuss separation anxiety. Recently, my mom rescued a Golden Retriever who has severe separation anxiety. I wanted to bring Robyn on the podcast to discuss why pets gets separation anxiety and what we can do to help our pets.

Welcome Robyn

One of the most common complaints of pet parents is that their dogs are disruptive or destructive when left alone. Their dogs might urinate, defecate, bark, howl, chew, dig or try to escape. Although these problems often indicate that a dog needs to be taught polite house manners, they can also be symptoms of distress. When a dog’s problems are accompanied by other distress behaviors, such as drooling and showing anxiety when his pet parents prepare to leave the house, they aren’t evidence that the dog isn’t house trained or doesn’t know which toys are his to chew. Instead, they are indications that the dog has separation anxiety. Separation anxiety is triggered when dogs become upset because of separation from their guardians, the people they’re attached to. Escape attempts by dogs with separation anxiety are often extreme and can result in self-injury and household destruction, especially around exit points like windows and doors.

Some dogs suffering from separation anxiety become agitated when their guardians prepare to leave. Others seem anxious or depressed prior to their guardians’ departure or when their guardians aren’t present. Some try to prevent their guardians from leaving. Usually, right after a guardian leaves a dog with separation anxiety, the dog will begin barking and displaying other distress behaviors within a short time after being left alone—often within minutes. When the guardian returns home, the dog acts as though it’s been years since he’s seen his mom or dad!

When treating a dog with separation anxiety, the goal is to resolve the dog’s underlying anxiety by teaching him to enjoy, or at least tolerate, being left alone. This is accomplished by setting things up so that the dog experiences the situation that provokes his anxiety, namely being alone, without experiencing fear or anxiety.

Common Symptoms of Separation Anxiety

The following is a list of symptoms that may indicate separation anxiety:

Urinating and Defecating

Some dogs urinate or defecate when left alone or separated from their guardians. If a dog urinates or defecates in the presence of his guardian, his house soiling probably isn’t caused by separation anxiety.

Barking and Howling

A dog who has separation anxiety might bark or howl when left alone or when separated from his guardian. This kind of barking or howling is persistent and doesn’t seem to be triggered by anything except being left alone.

Chewing, Digging and Destruction

Some dogs with separation anxiety chew on objects, door frames or window sills, dig at doors and doorways, or destroy household objects when left alone or separated from their guardians. These behaviors can result in self-injury, such as broken teeth, cut and scraped paws and damaged nails. If a dog’s chewing, digging and destruction are caused by separation anxiety, they don’t usually occur in his guardian’s presence.

Escaping

A dog with separation anxiety might try to escape from an area where he’s confined when he’s left alone or separated from his guardian. The dog might attempt to dig and chew through doors or windows, which could result in self-injury, such as broken teeth, cut and scraped front paws and damaged nails. If the dog’s escape behavior is caused by separation anxiety, it doesn’t occur when his guardian is present.

Pacing

Some dogs walk or trot along a specific path in a fixed pattern when left alone or separated from their guardians. Some pacing dogs move around in circular patterns, while others walk back and forth in straight lines. If a dog’s pacing behavior is caused by separation anxiety, it usually doesn’t occur when his guardian is present.

Coprophagia

When left alone or separated from their guardians, some dogs defecate and then consume all or some of their excrement. If a dog eats excrement because of separation anxiety, he probably doesn’t perform that behavior in the presence of his guardian.

Why Do Some Dogs Develop Separation Anxiety?

There is no conclusive evidence showing exactly why dogs develop separation anxiety. However, because far more dogs who have been adopted from shelters have this behavior problem than those kept by a single family since puppyhood, it is believed that loss of an important person or group of people in a dog’s life can lead to separation anxiety. Other less dramatic changes can also trigger the disorder. The following is a list of situations that have been associated with development of separation anxiety.

Change of Guardian or Family

Being abandoned, surrendered to a shelter or given to a new guardian or family can trigger the development of separation anxiety.

Change in Schedule

An abrupt change in schedule in terms of when or how long a dog is left alone can trigger the development of separation anxiety. For example, if a dog’s guardian works from home and spends all day with his dog but then gets a new job that requires him to leave his dog alone for six or more hours at a time, the dog might develop separation anxiety because of that change.

Change in Residence

Moving to a new residence can trigger the development of separation anxiety.

Change in Household Membership

The sudden absence of a resident family member, either due to death or moving away, can trigger the development of separation anxiety.

Medical Problems to Rule Out First

Incontinence Caused by Medical Problems

Some dogs’ house soiling is caused by incontinence, a medical condition in which a dog “leaks” or voids his bladder. Dogs with incontinence problems often seem unaware that they’ve soiled. Sometimes they void urine while asleep. A number of medical issues—including a urinary tract infection, a weak sphincter caused by old age, hormone-related problems after spay surgery, bladder stones, diabetes, kidney disease, Cushing’s disease, neurological problems and abnormalities of the genitalia—can cause urinary incontinence in dogs. Before attempting behavior modification for separation anxiety, please see your dog’s veterinarian to rule out medical issues.

Medications

There are a number of medications that can cause frequent urination and house soiling. If your dog takes any medications, please contact his veterinarian to find out whether or not they might contribute to his house-soiling problems.

Other Behavior Problems to Rule Out

Sometimes it’s difficult to determine whether a dog has separation anxiety or not. Some common behavior problems can cause similar symptoms. Before concluding that your dog has separation anxiety, it’s important to rule out the following behavior problems:

Submissive or Excitement Urination

Some dogs may urinate during greetings, play, physical contact or when being reprimanded or punished. Such dogs tend to display submissive postures during interactions, such as holding the tail low, flattening the ears back against the head, crouching or rolling over and exposing the belly.

Incomplete House Training

A dog who occasionally urinates in the house might not be completely house trained. His house training might have been inconsistent or it might have involved punishment that made him afraid to eliminate while his owner is watching or nearby.

Urine Marking

Some dogs urinate in the house because they’re scent marking. A dog scent marks by urinating small amounts on vertical surfaces. Most male dogs and some female dogs who scent mark raise a leg to urinate.

Juvenile Destruction

Many young dogs engage in destructive chewing or digging while their guardians are home as well as when they’re away. Please see our articles, Destructive Chewing, for more information about these problems.

Boredom

Dogs need mental stimulation, and some dogs can be disruptive when left alone because they’re bored and looking for something to do. These dogs usually don’t appear anxious.

Excessive Barking or Howling

Some dogs bark or howl in response to various triggers in their environments, like unfamiliar sights and sounds. They usually vocalize when their guardians are home as well as when they’re away. For more information about this kind of problem, please see our articles, Barking and Howling.

What to Do If Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety

Treatment for Mild Separation Anxiety

If your dog has a mild case of separation anxiety, counterconditioning might reduce or resolve the problem. Counterconditioning is a treatment process that changes an animal’s fearful, anxious or aggressive reaction to a pleasant, relaxed one instead. It’s done by associating the sight or presence of a feared or disliked person, animal, place, object or situation with something really good, something the dog loves. Over time, the dog learns that whatever he fears actually predicts good things for him. For dogs with separation anxiety, counterconditioning focuses on developing an association between being alone and good things, like delicious food. To develop this kind of association, every time you leave the house, you can offer your dog a puzzle toy stuffed with food that will take him at least 20 to 30 minutes to finish. For example, try giving your dog a KONG® stuffed with something really tasty, like low-fat cream cheese, spray cheese or low-fat peanut butter, frozen banana and cottage cheese, or canned dog food and kibble. A KONG can even be frozen so that getting all the food out takes even more of your dog’s time. Be sure to remove these special toys as soon as you return home so that your dog only has access to them and the high-value foods inside when he’s by himself. You can feed your dog all of his daily meals in special toys. For example, you can give your dog a KONG or two stuffed with his breakfast and some tasty treats every morning before going to work. Keep in mind, though, that this approach will only work for mild cases of separation anxiety because highly anxious dogs usually won’t eat when their guardians aren’t home.

Treatment for Moderate to Severe Separation Anxiety

Moderate or severe cases of separation anxiety require a more complex desensitization and counterconditioning program. In these cases, it’s crucial to gradually accustom a dog to being alone by starting with many short separations that do not produce anxiety and then gradually increasing the duration of the separations over many weeks of daily sessions.

The following steps briefly describe a desensitization and counterconditioning program. Please keep in mind that this is a short, general explanation.

Desensitization and counterconditioning are complex and can be tricky to carry out. Fear must be avoided or the procedure will backfire and the dog will get more frightened. Because treatment must progress and change according to the pet’s reactions, and because these reactions can be difficult to read and interpret, desensitization and counterconditioning require the guidance of a trained and experienced professional. For help designing and carrying out a desensitization and counterconditioning plan, consult a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB) or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB). If you can’t find a behaviorist, you can seek help from a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT), but be sure that the trainer is qualified to help you. Determine whether she or he has education and experience in treating fear with desensitization and counterconditioning, since this kind of expertise isn’t required for CPDT certification. Please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, to locate one of these experts in your area.

Step One: Predeparture Cues

As mentioned above, some dogs begin to feel anxious while their guardians get ready to leave. For example, a dog might start to pace, pant and whine when he notices his guardian applying makeup, putting on shoes and a coat, and then picking up a bag or car keys. (If your dog doesn’t show signs of anxiety when you’re preparing to leave him alone, you can just skip to step two below.) Guardians of dogs who become upset during predeparture rituals are unable to leave—even for just few seconds—without triggering their dogs’ extreme anxiety. Your dog may see telltale cues that you’re leaving (like your putting on your coat or picking up your keys) and get so anxious about being left alone that he can’t control himself and forgets that you’ll come back.

One treatment approach to this “predeparture anxiety” is to teach your dog that when you pick up your keys or put on your coat, it doesn’t always mean that you’re leaving. You can do this by exposing your dog to these cues in various orders several times a day—without leaving. For example, put on your boots and coat, and then just watch TV instead of leaving. Or pick up your keys, and then sit down at the kitchen table for awhile. This will reduce your dog’s anxiety because these cues won’t always lead to your departure, and so your dog won’t get so anxious when he sees them. Please be aware, though, that your dog has many years of learning the significance of your departure cues, so in order to learn that the cues no longer predict your long absences, your dog must experience the fake cues many, many times a day for many weeks. After your dog doesn’t become anxious when he sees you getting ready to leave, you can move on to the next step below.

Step Two: Graduated Departures/Absences

If your dog is less anxious before you leave, you can probably skip the predeparture treatment above and start with very short departures. The main rule is to plan your absences to be shorter than the time it takes for your dog to become upset. To get started, train your dog to perform out-of-sight stays by an inside door in the home, such as the bathroom. You can teach your dog to sit or down and stay while you go to the other side of the bathroom door. (You can also contact a Certified Professional Dog Trainer for assistance. Please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, to locate a CPDT in your area.) Gradually increase the length of time you wait on the other side of the door, out of your dog’s sight. You can also work on getting your dog used to predeparture cues as you practice the stay. For example, ask your dog to stay. Then put on your coat, pick up your purse and go into the bathroom while your dog continues to stay.

Progress to doing out-of-sight stay exercises at a bedroom door, and then later at an exit door. If you always leave through the front door, do the exercises at the back door first. By the time you start working with your dog at exit doors, he shouldn’t behave anxiously because he has a history of playing the “stay game.”

At this point, you can start to incorporate very short absences into your training. Start with absences that last only last one to two seconds, and then slowly increase the time you’re out of your dog’s sight. When you’ve trained up to separations of five to ten seconds long, build in counterconditioning by giving your dog a stuffed food toy just before you step out the door. The food-stuffed toy also works as a safety cue that tells the dog that this is a “safe” separation.

During your sessions, be sure to wait a few minutes between absences. After each short separation, it’s important to make sure that your dog is completely relaxed before you leave again. If you leave again right away, while your dog is still excited about your return from the previous separation, he’ll already feel aroused when he experiences the next absence. This arousal might make him less able to tolerate the next separation, which could make the problem worse rather than better.

Remember to behave in a very calm and quiet manner when going out and coming in. This will lower the contrast between times when you’re there and times when you’re gone.

You must judge when your dog is able to tolerate an increase in the length of separation. Each dog reacts differently, so there are no standard timelines. Deciding when to increase the time that your dog is alone can be very difficult, and many pet parents make errors. They want treatment to progress quickly, so they expose their dogs to durations that are too long, which provokes anxiety and worsens the problem. To prevent this kind of mistake, watch for signs of stress in your dog. These signs might include dilated pupils, panting, yawning, salivating, trembling, pacing and exuberant greeting. If you detect stress, you should back up and shorten the length of your departures to a point where your dog can relax again. Then start again at that level and progress more slowly.

You will need to spend a significant amount of time building up to 40-minute absences because most of your dog’s anxious responses will occur within the first 40 minutes that he’s alone. This means that over weeks of conditioning, you’ll increase the duration of your departures by only a few seconds each session, or every couple of sessions, depending on your dog’s tolerance at each level. Once your dog can tolerate 40 minutes of separation from you, you can increase absences by larger chunks of time (5-minute increments at first, then later 15-minute increments). Once your dog can be alone for 90 minutes without getting upset or anxious, he can probably handle four to eight hours. (Just to be safe, try leaving him alone for four hours at first, and then work up to eight full hours over a few days.)

This treatment process can be accomplished within a few weeks if you can conduct several daily sessions on the weekends and twice-daily sessions during the work week, usually before leaving for work and in the evenings.

A Necessary Component of Separation Anxiety Treatment

During desensitization to any type of fear, it is essential to ensure that your dog never experiences the full-blown version of whatever provokes his anxiety or fear. He must experience only a low-intensity version that doesn’t frighten him. Otherwise, he won’t learn to feel calm and comfortable in situations that upset him. This means that during treatment for separation anxiety, your dog cannot be left alone except during your desensitization sessions. Fortunately there are plenty of alternative arrangements:

If possible, take your dog to work with you.

Arrange for a family member, friend or dog sitter to come to your home and stay with your dog when you’re not there. (Most dogs suffering from separation anxiety are fine as long as someone is with them. That someone doesn’t necessarily need to be you.)

Take your dog to a sitter’s house or to a doggy daycare.

Many dogs suffering from separation anxiety are okay when left in a car. You can try leaving your dog in a car—but only if the weather is moderate. Be warned: dogs can suffer from heatstroke and die if left in cars in warm weather (70 degrees Fahrenheit and up)—even for just a few minutes. DO NOT leave your dog in a car unless you’re sure that the interior of your car won’t heat up.

In addition to your graduated absences exercises, all greetings (hellos and goodbyes) should be conducted in a very calm manner. When saying goodbye, just give your dog a pat on the head, say goodbye and leave. Similarly, when arriving home, say hello to your dog and then don’t pay any more attention to him until he’s calm and relaxed. The amount of time it takes for your dog to relax once you’ve returned home will depend on his level of anxiety and individual temperament. To decrease your dog’s excitement level when you come home, it might help to distract him by asking him to perform some simple behaviors that he’s already learned, such as sit, down or shake.

To Crate or Not to Crate?

Crate training can be helpful for some dogs if they learn that the crate is their safe place to go when left alone. However, for other dogs, the crate can cause added stress and anxiety. In order to determine whether or not you should try using a crate, monitor your dog’s behavior during crate training and when he’s left in the crate while you’re home. If he shows signs of distress (heavy panting, excessive salivation, frantic escape attempts, persistent howling or barking), crate confinement isn’t the best option for him. Instead of using a crate, you can try confining your dog to one room behind a baby gate.

Provide Plenty of “Jobs” for Your Dog to Do

Providing lots of physical and mental stimulation is a vital part of treating many behavior problems, especially those involving anxiety. Exercising your dog’s mind and body can greatly enrich his life, decrease stress and provide appropriate outlets for normal dog behaviors. Additionally, a physically and mentally tired dog doesn’t have much excess energy to expend when he’s left alone. To keep your dog busy and happy, try the following suggestions:

Give your dog at least 30 minutes of aerobic activity (for example, running and swimming) every day. Try to exercise your dog right before you have to leave him by himself. This might help him relax and rest while you’re gone.

Play fun, interactive games with your dog, such as fetch and tug-of-war. 

Take your dog on daily walks and outings. Take different routes and visit new places as often as possible so that he can experience novel smells and sights.

If your dog likes other dogs, let him play off-leash with his canine buddies.

Frequently provide food puzzle toys. You can feed your dog his meals in these toys or stuff them with a little peanut butter, cheese or yogurt. Also give your dog a variety of attractive edible and inedible chew things. Puzzle toys and chew items encourage chewing and licking, which have been shown to have a calming effect on dogs. Be sure to provide them whenever you leave your dog alone.

Make your dog “hunt” his meals by hiding small piles of his kibble around your house or yard when you leave. Most dogs love this game!

Enroll in a reward-based training class to increase your dog’s mental activity and enhance the bond between you and your dog. Contact a Certified Professional Dog Trainer for group or private classes that can give you and your dog lots of great skills to learn and games to play together. After you and your dog have learned a few new skills, you can mentally tire your dog out by practicing them right before you leave your dog home alone. Please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, to locate a CPDT in your area.

Get involved in dog sports, such as agility, freestyle (dancing with your dog) or flyball.

Medications Might Help

Always consult with your veterinarian or a veterinary behaviorist before giving your dog any type of medication for a behavior problem.

The use of medications can be very helpful, especially for severe cases of separation anxiety. Some dogs are so distraught by any separation from their pet parents that treatment can’t be implemented without the help of medication. Anti-anxiety medication can help a dog tolerate some level of isolation without experiencing anxiety. It can also make treatment progress more quickly.

On rare occasions, a dog with mild separation anxiety might benefit from drug therapy alone, without accompanying behavior modification. The dog becomes accustomed to being left alone with the help of the drug and retains this new conditioning after he’s gradually weaned off the medication. However, most dogs need a combination of medication and behavior modification.

If you’d like to explore this option, speak with your veterinarian, a veterinary behaviorist or a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist who can work closely with your vet. Please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, to locate one of these professionals in your area.

What NOT to Do

Do not scold or punish your dog. Anxious behaviors are not the result of disobedience or spite. They are distress responses! Your dog displays anxious behaviors when left alone because he’s upset and trying to cope with a great deal of stress. If you punish him, he may become even more upset and the problem could get much worse.

What to do when your dog is being sick?

Reasons dogs are sick

• Food poisoning
• Eating too much or too quickly
• Eating new or unusual food
• Swallowing a poisonous substance
• Parasites
• Kidney, liver, or pancreatic disease
• Ear or balance problems
• Motion sickness

If your dog has been sick a few times but otherwise appears well:

• Remove all food and water for two hours
• After this time, allow your dog to have small amounts of water — offer this half-hourly a few tablespoons at a time — but withhold food for a further 6-8 hours
• If your dog’s vomiting has stopped, reintroduce small meals (1-3 tablespoons) of a bland low-fat cooked food such as chicken or white fish and rice and or pasta every hour or two. Plain cooked egg is also suitable. Fats, dairy and raw meat should be avoided.
• If no further signs are seen, your pet can gradually return to a normal diet the following day. Give the food in 4-6 small meals and introduce gradually by mixing with the bland diet, increasing the proportion of normal diet with each subsequent meal.

If this does not solve the sickness problem you should call your vet or, out of hours, your nearest Vets Now pet emergency clinic or Vets Now 24/7 hospital.

Cindy Myers Ambassador to Animals, Humans and Spirit

I’ve always been a good listener. However, twenty years ago, I would have found it hilarious if you told me that I’d be working as an intuitive energy healer while living on an alpaca farm! But, here I am with a herd of 24 alpacas, 3 dogs and 3 cats working as a Medical Intuitive! I believe that the sum of our life experiences can lead us to our true calling in life. There are many paths to finding our way to our authentic selves.

It took many years, multiple and diverse career paths, and tough life challenges to finding my true calling. The life lessons were invaluable that led me to this meaningful life. I learned about frequencies and Radars while working as an Engineer for the Navy and now I am a Radar! I learned all about stress and how harmful it is to our body, mind and spirit while being my mom’s caregiver through her final years. And there was an amazing gift I created out of the house fire I experienced due to an arsonist. Losing my belongings led me to discovering myself. And I found the courage to embrace and pursue my calling of intuitive energy work. It is an honor and humbles me to do this work for people and their animals.

I love sharing my intuitive abilities with both animals and humans. I look forward to helping you restore your energy balance so you can live an abundantly joy filled life!

Visit https://yourenergyhealer.com/about/ for more info

At WINPRO, we're dedicated to helping dogs live their best lives. Our range of plasma-powered health products are backed by scientific evidence and a money-back guarantee. Our vision is to support the health and well-being of dogs through the use of innovative and effective products.

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What is a Veterinary Specialist?

Breck & Bailey is a Colorado born and bred home-delivered freshly frozen dog food company. We work with a veterinarian nutritionist to develop fresh recipes that not only meet AAFCO standards but also OUR standards. Not only do our own dogs taste test our recipes, but SO DO WE! We are human and pup approved! We use only ingredients that you can pronounce and actually identify. We also use a limited number of fresh and sustainably sourced ingredients that are grown in the USA only. Our proteins are sourced from Colorado-based ranches and our vegetables and starches are sourced as close to Colorado as possible based on seasonal availability. You know what is so awesome?!  Bark@BreckAndBailey.com. 

Visit https://breckandbailey.com/

HI, I AM CINDY!

Cindy Myers Ambassador to Animals, Humans and Spirit

I’ve always been a good listener. However, twenty years ago, I would have found it hilarious if you told me that I’d be working as an intuitive energy healer while living on an alpaca farm! But, here I am with a herd of 24 alpacas, 3 dogs and 3 cats working as a Medical Intuitive! I believe that the sum of our life experiences can lead us to our true calling in life. There are many paths to finding our way to our authentic selves.

It took many years, multiple and diverse career paths, and tough life challenges to finding my true calling. The life lessons were invaluable that led me to this meaningful life. I learned about frequencies and Radars while working as an Engineer for the Navy and now I am a Radar! I learned all about stress and how harmful it is to our body, mind and spirit while being my mom’s caregiver through her final years. And there was an amazing gift I created out of the house fire I experienced due to an arsonist. Losing my belongings led me to discovering myself. And I found the courage to embrace and pursue my calling of intuitive energy work. It is an honor and humbles me to do this work for people and their animals

I love sharing my intuitive abilities with both animals and humans. I look forward to helping you restore your energy balance so you can live an abundantly joy filled life!

Visit Cindy at https://yourenergyhealer.com/about/

Overheated dogs can suffer heat exhaustion, heat stroke or sudden death from cardiac arrhythmias. Panting, followed by disorientation and fast, noisy breathing could signal overheating. Other possible signs: Collapsing or convulsing, bright red or blue gums, vomiting and diarrhea.

Your vacation is scheduled and you’ve decided to find a pet sitter so your pet can stay at home while you are away. To ensure you find the perfect pet sitter, you should conduct an interview, check references and make sure the sitter is licensed, bonded and insured, and LOVES pets. But there are some additional steps you should also take to help ensure your pet will receive the best care possible:

Schedule Early

Most pet sitters book appointments far in advance. Make reservations as early as possible to guarantee a spot for your pet’s care. If your schedule changes, alert your pet sitter so additional care can be scheduled if necessary.

Meet & Greet

Make sure your pet has had an opportunity to meet the sitter before your vacation. Give your sitter your pet schedule, feeding and medication instructions.  If possible, have the sitter take your dog for a walk so that your pet and sitter get accustomed to each other, or bond for a few minutes with you cat or other pets.

Pet Care Information and Supplies

Don’t make your sitter search for pet care items. Place everything your sitter will need in one specific place. This includes food & treats (including a can opener, utensil to mix/chop food and scoop for measuring dry fare), extra food and consumable supplies just in case, medications (with clearly written instructions), leash and collar/harness, paper towels and cleaning supplies, broom/dust pan or vacuum cleaner, plastic bags for waste disposal, litter and scooper, and potty pads if used. Clearly write out and review with your pet sitter any special instructions you want them to perform.

Thermostat

Your pet will be in your locked, sealed home. Make sure the thermostat is set at a comfortable temperature for your pet. Leave instructions on how to adjust the temperature range for your thermostat in case of a power-outage.

Pet Proof Your Home

Pets can be more inquisitive and bored when they are left alone and get into mischief. Put toilet lids down, close cupboards and closets, store medications, perfumes, loose small objects and household cleansers away and out of your pet’s reach.

Alarms, Off-limit Areas, Home Access

Are there areas where your pet is not allowed? Make sure you close off the rooms and let the sitter know that those areas are to be kept off limits. Close and lock doors, including garage, and patio doors and windows before you leave. Use timers to control indoor lights so your pet’s day/night schedule is similar to when you are at home. Check to make sure gates and fences are closed and locked.

Visitor List

If you live in an apartment or gated community, advise and authorize security that your pet sitter will be visiting and, if appropriate, let you neighbors know too. Also, if you plan to have friends, family or someone else also checking on your house and pets in your absence, let the sitter know.  Clearly explain what the pet sitter is responsible for and what the other visitors will be doing to avoid confusion. Also let the sitter know about gardeners, pool or house maintenance providers who might also be on the premises in your absence.

In Case of Emergency

Your pet sitter should have the information about where to take your pet in case of a health emergency. You should also notify your veterinarian in writing that a sitter will be watching your pet and authorize the veterinarian to provide medical care during your absence if necessary. If there is a natural disaster and your sitter needs to remove your pet from your premises, have a pet emergency kit available and a pet carrier too.  You should also communicate with your sitter how you would like to get updates about your pet, via text, email or phone.

Prepare Your Pet Sitter

Preparation is the key to make sure your pet sitter has all of the information they need to properly care for your pet while you are away. If they don’t have to search around for your pet supplies and instructions, they will have more time to spend giving love and attention to your pet.

Written by Kathleen Huffman, General Manager of Fetch! Pet Care Palm Desert

Visit Christi for more informaton: https://www.naturalpetwellnessco.com/

Welcome to Bark & Wag’s 15 Minute Vet Talk – I am your host Polly ReQua

Today we are talking to Dr. Laura Brown, a Veterinarian and Owner of Green Tree Animal Hospital in Libertyville, IL as we discuss medication. 

Helpful tips when giving your pet medication. 

Welcome Cindy.....

In Alpacas Don't Do That, Cindy Myers describes how her relationship with alpacas and other animals in her life, provided a new career path and lifestyle. She went from suburban life with steady career in engineering to owning and operating an alpaca farm. Alpacas opened up not only a new lifestyle, but Cindy developed and adapted positive reinforcement, Clicker Training methods and using Reiki to work with alpacas. While training her animals and using these techniques, her life has been transformed by her interaction with the animals that have crossed Cindy's path. This book shares those life changing lessons and stories.

http://www.beananimallistener.com/contact/

10 SAFETY AND CALMING TIPS FOR DOGS DURING FIREWORKS

By: 

Lisa SpectorFireworks can be fun for humans, but dogs don't have the same reaction.

In the United States, July 4th is around the corner, along with the fireworks that inevitably come with this holiday. Almost all humans with canines in the U.S. declare this day the worst day of the year for their dogs. Veterinarians say that July 3rd is usually the most trafficked day in their offices, with clients coming in to get drugs for their dogs.

A few years ago, I found a lost dog on the 4th of July. He was obviously a well fed, groomed, and trained dog that escaped his yard when he heard the fireworks. When I called our local Humane Society, I was informed that it is the busiest time of the year for them, as more dogs are found wandering loose on July 4th than any other day of the year in the U.S.

10 Tips for providing a safe July 4th for your Canine Household:

1. Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise earlier in the day.
2. Keep your dogs inside during fireworks, preferably with human companionship. If it’s hot, air conditioning will help. Bringing your dogs to a fireworks display is never a good idea.
3. Provide a safe place inside for your dogs to retreat. When scared of sounds they can’t orient, dogs often prefer small enclosed areas. (I once had a dog who climbed in the bathtub during windstorms.) If your dog is comfortable in a crate, that is a good option.
4. If possible, keep the windows and curtains closed. Covering the crate or lowering the blinds can also be helpful. Removing visual stimulation can also help calm dogs.
5. Make sure all your dogs are wearing ID tags with a properly fitting collar. Dogs have been known to become Houdini around the 4th of July.
6. Leave your dog something fun to do – like a frozen Kong filled with his favorite treats.

Using sensory enrichment to calm dogs:

7. Sound Therapy: The psychoacoustically designed music of Through a Dog's Ear has been specifically designed to reduce canine anxiety and has been successfully utilized by dog lovers world-wide. It is most effective when you first play the music well before the fireworks start, at a time the dog is already feeling peaceful and relaxed. He will begin to associate the music with being calm and content. Then play the music a couple of hours before the fireworks start and continue to play through bedtime. The music doesn’t need to be loud to be effective as it has been clinically demonstrated to calm the canine nervous system. Listen to free sound samples.
8. Sound Therapy combined with Desensitization: The Canine Noise Phobia series (CNP) consists of four CD's that can be used individually or as a set: Fireworks, Thunderstorms, City Sounds, and Calming. CNP is an innovative desensitization training tool that combines three distinctive elements for the treatment and prevention of sound-sensitivities and noise-phobias:

Here's what Nancy Weller said after using CNP Fireworks:

"I am preparing for New Years Eve. The most skittish of the greyhounds already went to bed. My boy is just game for everything. Tonight, we are relaxing to the Phobia Series Fireworks. He fights hard to stay awake. The subtle fireworks make him stare at the speaker. Then not. 75+ lb brindle boy, sleeping like a baby. Mom might have to curl up too."

9. Tactile: There are two canine wraps on the market that reportedly help sound phobic dogs. The original Anxiety Wrap was invented by professional dog trainer Susan Sharpe, CPDT-KA. The patented design uses acupressure and maintained pressure to reduce stress. The thundershirt is also a wrap for your dog that provides gentle, constant pressure. Their website reports that over 85% of Thundershirt users see significant improvement in noise anxiety symptoms. Most dogs respond with the very first usage; some need 2-3 usages before showing significant improvement.
10. Scent: Canine Calm, an all-natural mist from Earth Heart™ Inc., can help dogs relax and cope more effectively with loud noises and other stressful situations. Directions on their website say to spray Canine Calm onto your hands and massage the dog’s outer ears or abdomen. Or lightly mist the air behind your dog’s head, inside the travel crate or car, or directly onto bedding or clothing.

Do you have any additional tips for helping keep dogs calm and safe on this noisy holiday? Thanks for clicking comment below and sharing your suggestions. Also, feel free to share how your dogs have acted during previous July 4th holidays.

Hi, I am Cindy. I am excited that you are here! As you can see, I offer both Human and Animal Services and often times do both simultaneously with clients. Click on either one below to learn more about my offerings. If you have additional questions, most answers can be found on my FAQ Page. Thank you for your interest, I look forward to possibly working with you and/or your pet. – Cindy

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Today we talk to Kari Fisher, chicken flock owner, about owning chickens as pets.

Welcome to Bark & Wag 15 Minute Vet Talk – I am your host Polly ReQua.

Today we are talking to Dr. Laura Brown, a Veterinarian and owner of Green Tree Animal Hospital in Libertyville, IL as we discuss Ticks. Yuck! They are out there and what can we do to protect our dogs?

Dr. Brown, thank you for taking the time to talk about ticks with our dogs.  Welcome and please let us know more about these gross insects?

TICKS

Ectoparasites are organisms that live on the outside of an animal. Ticks are fairly common ectoparasites of dogs (and cats). How often you see ticks on your dog and how severe a tick assault will be depends on the region of the country in which you live, the time of year (tick activity varies in warm and cool weather), the habits of your dog, and how and when you use tick control products. Some ticks can infest dogs that spend most of their time indoors, and even dogs that only spend brief periods of time outside can have ticks.

 How will ticks affect my dog?

Ticks attach to your dog by inserting their mouthparts into your dog’s skin. Many ticks also produce a sticky, gluelike substance that helps them to remain attached. After attaching to your dog, ticks begin feeding on your dog’s blood. The places where ticks attach can become red and irritated.

Although rare, ticks can consume enough of your dog’s blood to cause a deficiency called anemia. Certain female ticks can also cause a rare paralysis in dogs as a result of a toxin they produce while feeding. More important, ticks are capable of causing many diseases in your pet. The disease with which most people are familiar is called Lyme disease. Another is Rocky Mountain spotted fever.

Lyme disease can cause arthritis and swelling of your dog’s joints, resulting in painful lameness. Rocky Mountain spotted fever can cause fever, lameness, and other signs. There are also other diseases that ticks can transmit to your dog. Your veterinarian can answer questions about the diseases that are important where you live.

How do I prevent my dog from getting ticks?

It is very difficult to prevent your dog’s exposure to ticks. Ticks can attach to your dog when he or she goes with you on walks, hikes, or during any outdoor activities.

The best way to prevent ticks from attaching to your dog is by the regular use of tick control products. Your veterinarian can advise you about the best product for your dog and your situation. Your veterinarian is also aware of diseases that are common in your area and can pose a risk to your dog.

If you have a tick problem in your yard consider:

• treating the outdoor environment (be sure to understand what products you are using and how they affect the environment)
• making a landscape change to make the environment less tick friendly – this can be done by providing a 3 foot buffer between the lawn and any woods.  Mulch, wood chips, or gravel work well, and help to decrease the migration of ticks into yards.
• ridding your yard of wild animals

Often more ticks are present or they are more active at certain times of the year. Your veterinarian can tell you how to avoid locations where large numbers of ticks are found.

Can humans be harmed by ticks?

Ticks can attach to and feed on humans. The skin where ticks attach to humans can become red and irritated. Ticks that transmit diseases to your dog can also transmit many of the same diseases to people. It is important to realize that people do not get these diseases from their dogs. Both people and dogs get the diseases from ticks they come into contact with outdoors. Diseases, such as Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever, which have already been described in dogs, can also be very serious in humans.

If you have questions about human diseases that are transmitted by ticks and how you can protect yourself, you should consult a doctor.

DID YOU KNOW?

• While ticks themselves cause only mild irritation, they can carry diseases that pose a serious threat to animals and humans.
• Ticks can be prevented by regular use of tick control products.
• Just pulling off a tick can leave body parts attached to your dog. Ask your veterinarian about proper tick removal and tick control.
• Illnesses transmitted by ticks can case fever, anemia, paralysis, lameness, and other symptoms.
• People can not catch Lyme disease or Rocky Mountain spotted fever from infected dogs, but the same ticks that bite dogs can cause these illnesses and others if they bite humans.
• Adult ticks can live up to 3 years without blood meal.
• Ticks live on three different animals during their life.
• Most ticks spend most of their life OFF the host (animal) in the environment.
• Ticks can't jump and don't "fall from trees" as most people think, but transfer onto hosts when animals or humans walk through long grass, bushes and brush.

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