The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast (Neely Quinn)
Explore every episode of The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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| 10 Feb 2015 | TBP 016 :: Steph Davis on Training for Alpine, Sport Climbing, Free Soloing, FFAs, and Veganism | 01:10:52 | |
I got to sit down with the great Steph Davis the other day and chat about her training for climbing, her vast accomplishments, her FFAs, her free soloing exploits, her diet, her wing suit flying, and all kinds of other stuff. About Steph DavisI can't really do her resumé justice, so I'm just going to let her Wikipedia page do it for me. Stephanie "Steph" Davis (born 1973) is an American rock climber, BASE jumper and wingsuit flyer. She is one of the world's leading female climbers, having completed some of the hardest routes in the world. She is the only woman to have free solo climbed a 5.11 climb, the first woman to summit all the peaks of the Fitzroy Range in Patagonia, the second woman to free climb El Capitan in a day, the first woman to free climb the Salathė Wall on El Capitan, the first woman to free solo The Diamond on Long's Peak in Colorado, and the first woman to summit Torre Egger. Here's what we talked about:
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings Thanks for listening!
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| 16 May 2016 | Ask Kris 005 :: Improving Core Strength for Climbing | 00:23:19 | |
Improving Core Strength for Climbing This week, in our fifth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve core strength for climbing. Having just spent last week in Rifle on my project, I realized that I need to gain a lot of core strength myself, so I loved this episode. Here's what we talked about:
All of the programs that Kris wrote for trainingbeta.com have a focus on core stability and strength. If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our bouldering training program or our route training program.
Do all of the exercises below without stopping, except for the noted rest times. TRX Pikes (Video):
TRX Saws (Video):
AB Hip Raises (Video):
TRX Planks (Video):
Toes to bar
Ab Roller
V-Ups (Video)
All done - nice work! Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
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| 07 Mar 2018 | Ask Matt :: Comparing Finger Training Protocols | 00:22:43 | |
| 22 Jan 2020 | TBP 142 :: Zahan Billimoria on Core Training for Climbing | 01:19:47 | |
In this interview I talk with coach, climber, and mountain guide, Zahan Billimoria, about how (and why) to strengthen your core for rock climbing. | |||
| 17 Aug 2017 | TBP 085 :: Esther Smith - Neck and Back Injuries in Climbers | 01:16:42 | |
In this interview, I talk with Esther Smith, physical therapist, about common neck and back issues in climbers and how to rehab them. | |||
| 01 Jun 2017 | TBP 080 :: Steve Bechtel on How to Create Your Own Training Plan | 01:16:30 | |
| 15 Jul 2016 | Ask Kris 011 :: Online Training Vs In-Person Training | 00:21:42 | |
Date: July 15th, 2016 Online Training Vs In-Person Training for ClimbingThis week in our Ask Kris episode, we talked about the pros and cons of 3 different training types:
Hopefully this will shed some light on what you should do for yourself if you're confused about what option to go with. More Details about The Talk
If you're one of those people who could benefit from a pre-made training program, these are our most popular programs created by Kris Peters. They're about $15/month and you get 3 unique workouts every week. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Coming soon! m6bgj7z6 | |||
| 03 Nov 2021 | TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers - How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why | 00:31:06 | |
TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers – How Much, What Kinds, Timing, and Why In this episode, I talk all about carbohydrates and how to use them properly in your diet to help your climbing performance, energy levels every day, overall mental well-being, and body composition. Carbs are a tricky topic because we’ve been taught to fear and hate them, even though in reality they’re what fuel strength and power activities. They’re also paramount to keeping your blood sugar and mood stable all day every day, as well as helping you to fall asleep and stay asleep. If you’re eating the wrong kinds of carbs in the wrong amounts at the wrong times of day, in conjunction with the wrong amount of protein and fat, you’re going to have issues. But if you know some basic guidelines around carbs, including what kinds to eat, how much of them, and when, it can make a world of difference in your life and your climbing. These changes can literally happen overnight, so listen carefully to this episode and try to make some tweaks to your diet for some potentially big changes. This is a recording taken from a 5-day nutrition challenge I did last year in front of a live zoom audience. I talked for about 15 minutes on the topic and then took a bunch of questions from the audience (very common questions, so they’re quite relevant). A Little about MeAfter completing my Bachelor’s degree in Psychology and Zoology at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, I did a 4-year nutrition certificate program at Seven Bowls School of Nutrition, Nourishment, and Healing. I graduated in 2007 as a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutrition Therapist. During those 4 years, I learned about not only nutrition, but herbs, homeopathy, and other alternative practices. I’ve been seeing clients since 2007 and I’ve worked exclusively with climbers since 2013. Nutrition Coaching with MeIf you’re looking for help with your own nutrition and you feel like you need personalized coaching, I’m taking new clients right now. I also have a program that is self-paced with 4+ hours of video from me, PDF’s, and meal plans laid out for you. You can find more information about my services and the program at www.trainingbeta.com/nutrition. You’re welcome to email me at neely@trainingbeta.com if you have any questions at all. Episode Details
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| 15 May 2019 | TBP 125: Jonathan Siegrist’s Prep and Process for Planta de Shiva 5.15b | 01:14:38 | |
I talk with Jonathan about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project. | |||
| 11 Nov 2015 | TBP 034 :: Justen Sjong on Improving Your Mental Game | 01:01:05 | |
About Justen Sjong
Justen Sjong is a prolific climbing coach out of Colorado, who's also had a successful climbing career, having established up to 5.14a big walls with none other than Tommy Caldwell, and crushing 5.14 sport climbs across the globe. He currently works out of Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder and does online coaching via www.climbingsensei.com. He has a thing or two to say about climbers improving their mental game and becoming better climbers overall. What We Talked About
FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Photo Credit Thanks for listening! | |||
| 10 Mar 2022 | TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi’s Pursuit of Progression and Perfection | 01:29:58 | |
Keenan Takahashi is a 30-year-old professional climber who has sent boulders up to V15. Originally from Davis, California, he started out as a skater and transitioned to climbing at about 17 years old. I wanted to talk with Keenan because–let’s be honest–I love his moustachio… and because I wanted to understand what sets him apart from other climbers. He’s climbed all over the world, he’s in countless videos (just google his name), and he clearly tries VERY HARD to excel at this sport. He’s intense and light-hearted all at the same time. He’s confident and humble at the same time, and I admire all of those qualities very much. I was honored to have a Skype sit-down with him from his van in Yosemite. We talked about his journey in climbing and what sets him apart as a climber, which he thinks is his obsessive personality. Honestly, I’ve never thought that being obsessive was a positive quality, but after talking to him I kind of want to cultivate more of it in my climbing life. His pursuits of progression and perfection in bouldering have led to an illustrious resume so far, and the fact that he JUST started training a couple months ago makes me think that maybe he’s just getting started. I walked away from this interview feeling soothed and inspired all at once. He’s well-spoken and self-aware, which always makes for an excellent discussion, and I hope you enjoy it as much as I did. Keenan Takahashi Interview Details
Photo of Keenan in Bishop by @ktlambies Please Review The Podcast on iTunesPlease give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. | |||
| 20 Jul 2021 | TBP 171 :: Training and Nutrition Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn | 00:59:55 | |
Support the Podcast on Patreon Nutrition and Training Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn In this episode, Coach Alex and I answer questions from the TrainingBeta community about nutrition and training. We asked people on Instagram, email, and Facebook what they wanted to know about, and we answered as many questions as we could in about an hour. Alex is a Certified Personal Trainer, a Performance Climbing Coach, and a 5.13+ climber. She is a coach for TrainingBeta and for Movement in Boulder. She’s been training and coaching individuals and teams for over 7 years. I (Neely Quinn) am your host (more about that in a sec) and I’m a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutritional Therapist who’s been working exclusively with climbers since 2014. In the last couple episodes, Alex has been subbing in for me as host, and while she’s a fantastic podcast host, I need her to focus on coaching and creating awesome programs for you, so I’m going to slip back in as your trusty host from now on. Having her take over for a while gave me some much-needed time to figure out what direction the podcast is going. I did a ton of thinking, researching, and soul searching, and I’m back and I’m psyched! You’ll be seeing more episodes every month now that I’m re-stoked. I’ll explain more in the episode. If you’re interested in supporting my efforts with the podcast and you’d like to get even more episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and group Q&A sessions with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join Patreon for that exclusive content. Q&A Details
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| 11 Nov 2020 | TBP 159: Alex Stiger on How Climbing Harder Made Her A Better Coach | 00:59:29 | |
About Alex Stiger Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is currently working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. Beyond all of that, though, Alex is one of my best friends and a super dedicated trainer/coach. I’ve watched her improve her climbing exponentially over the last 5 years through efficient and specific training. I wanted to have her on the show again to talk about how her coaching has evolved as she has, and how she’s come back strong after difficult injuries. You’ll be hearing more from Alex on TrainingBeta soon, so stay tuned for that. Alex Stiger Interview Details
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… Photo CreditPhoto of Alex on Homunculous 5.14a in Rifle by Jill Stompel @shmitpiex Please Review The Podcast on iTunesPlease give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. TranscriptComing soon… | |||
| 15 Dec 2021 | TBP 188 :: Rest - How Much Is Too Much and Navigating the Holidays | 00:51:49 | |
About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He’s currently taking new clients, so if you’d like to work with him, you can sign up here. Matt just started offering 1-hour remote coaching sessions so you can get your training questions answered and have guidance on how to build out a training program for yourself. Consider this offering as a gift for the climbers in your life, or for yourself if you’re not ready to commit to a coach full-time. >>>Get an Hour of Coaching with Matt Rest – How Much Is Too Much and How to Navigate the HolidaysIn the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I talk about rest. We’ve been getting a lot of questions from our clients who are scared to take off any time from climbing over the holidays for fear that they’ll lose all of the gains they’ve worked so hard for. Matt describes 3 client scenarios with different circumstances and the guidance he gave about rest:
We give our own anecdotal stories about whether or not resting has hurt or helped us in the past, and we talk about professional climbers’ use of long and short rest periods. We also discuss what the research says about how long it takes to actually lose strength and endurance during taper and off-season periods in other sports. Enjoy! Episode Details
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. Photo CreditPhoto of Adam Peters on Make It A Double by Matt Pincus @mpincus87 | |||
| 15 Sep 2022 | What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance | 00:28:37 | |
In this episode, I talk all about what to eat at the crag and the couple days before going to the crag so that you can have all-day energy and climb hard. I know it’s tempting to just not eat all day at the crag so you can feel “light” and climb hard, but the truth is that we need food at regular intervals every day, especially when we’re trying to perform athletically at a high level. So I’ll tell you what foods to pack in with you, what kinds of nutrients to focus on, and how to structure your day so it feels doable to get all the food you need. Not only will this help your performance on that day, but it’ll also help you recover better so you don’t feel like you got hit by a truck the next day. This is a recording taken from a 5-day nutrition challenge I did in 2020 in front of a live zoom audience. I talked for about 15 minutes on the topic and then took a bunch of questions from the audience (very common questions, so they’re quite relevant). Nutrition Podcast Episodes in This Series TBP 209 :: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition TBP 190 :: Meal Timing for Climbing Performance and Recovery TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers – How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why TBP 175 :: Protein for Climbers 101 – How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why A Little about MeAfter completing my Bachelor’s degree in Psychology and Zoology at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, I did a 4-year nutrition certificate program at Seven Bowls School of Nutrition, Nourishment, and Healing. I graduated in 2007 as a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutrition Therapist. During those 4 years, I learned about not only nutrition, but herbs, homeopathy, and other alternative practices. I’ve been seeing clients since 2007 and I’ve worked exclusively with climbers since 2013. Nutrition Coaching with MeIf you’re looking for help with your own nutrition and you feel like you need personalized coaching, I’m taking new clients right now. I also have a program that is self-paced with 4+ hours of video from me, PDF’s, and meal plans laid out for you. LEARN MORE ABOUT MY NUTRITION OFFERINGS
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| 23 Aug 2019 | TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering by.... Bouldering More | 01:10:25 | |
I talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently. | |||
| 01 Feb 2023 | TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette’s Psychological Tools for Climbers | 01:39:57 | |
This episode is one of the most meaningful episodes I’ve ever done, and I’ll tell you why in a sec. In it, I talked with psychologist Dr. Jennifer Dragonette about DBT, which stands for Dialectical Behavior Therapy, for a whopping hour and a half! DBT is a set of psychological tools developed by Marsha Linehan to help people truly process and deal with emotion dysregulation, interpersonal conflict, and the everyday issues of daily life. DBT is very important in my own life because it’s what lifted me out of my most recent major depressive episode in 2017 and has helped me have way lower levels of anxiety and depression than I ever have before. It helped save my life, to be honest. So when Dr. Jen contacted me to be on the show to talk about how DBT can help climbers, it was a full-body yes from me. I’ve incorporated DBT into my own climbing, and I’ve seen the incredible results it can produce in every part of life. Dr. Jen does an excellent job of explaining some of her favorite DBT tools and how they can be used in climbing for things like:
I also go into some very personal details about how some OCD tendencies played out in my life to contribute to severe anxiety and how DBT helped me stop the OCD behaviors. As well as how I’ve been using DBT tools to help overcome body image issues. As a climber and a psychologist, Dr. Jen has such a deep understanding of how these tools apply to climbing that you’ll hopefully feel confident using them in your very next climbing session. She’s clearly very adept at teaching DBT, and I enjoyed every moment of this conversation 🙂 Show Links
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| 02 May 2016 | Ask Kris 004 :: Shoulder Care for Climbers | 00:21:59 | |
Shoulder Care for Climbers This week, in our fourth mini episode of Ask Kris,wedecided to talk about shoulders - one of my favorite topics.Alot of climbers have shoulder issues, and we discuss how toavoidinjuries and how to prevent them.
All of the programs that Kris wrote fortrainingbeta.comhave a focus on shoulder stability, strength, andinjuryprevention. If you want 3 complete workouts every weektoget you stronger and help you stay injury free, check outourboulderingtraining program or our routetrainingprogram.
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| 29 Jul 2020 | TBP 152 :: Juliet Hammer on Weight Training and Racism in Climbing | 01:21:13 | |
I talk with Juliet Hammer about strength training for climbing using weights, compensating for being a short climber, what to focus on with your training during the pandemic, and racism in the climbing community. | |||
| 20 Aug 2015 | TBP 031 :: Ben Moon on Training and Climbing Through The Decades | 00:58:44 | |
Direct Download: LINKDate: August 20th, 2015 About Ben MoonBen Moon is an iconic climber from England who's accomplished much in his 40-year climbing career. He's 49 years old and just sent 9a (5.14d) this year, after having put up the first of the same grade in 1990 ("Hubble" in France). He's bouldered up to V14, and he does all this while running a successful climbing company called Moon Climbing and raising a child with his wife. He also created the classic Moon Board and the Moon Fingerboard, designed for the stronger, more massochistic among us. I wanted to talk to this legend about how he's achieved all of this, and he kindly granted me an interview. By the way, there are 2 Ben Moon's in the climbing world: this English Ben Moon and the videographer/climber Ben Moon who lives in the U.S. and recently made a video about Denali the dog. What We Talked AboutHere's what English Ben Moon and I talked about:
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| 27 Oct 2016 | TBP 065 :: Beth Rodden on Big Walls, Injuries, and Becoming A Mom | 01:07:59 | |
About Beth Rodden Beth Rodden is a climbing icon and absolutely a hero of mine. She broke barriers for women in sport climbing and big wall climbing, being the first American woman to climb 5.14b, the first woman to free 2 routes on El Cap, and one half of the 3rd team to free The Nose (with then husband Tommy Caldwell). She also put up what was, at the time, the hardest climb in Yosemite, Meltdown (5.14c). She did Meltdown in 2008, and soon after started dealing with some major injuries, including surgery for a torn labrum, finger pulley tears, and a broken ankle. Then, after her body started healing up, she became pregnant with her husband Randy Puro, and she had their son Theo in the Spring of 2014. Beth Rodden Interview Details Beth is starting to get back into training and climbing a little harder, and I was honored to sit down and talk with her about where she is now as a climber, how motherhood has changed her, and how she used to approach training and climbing. Her most memorable climbing achievements How she trained with Tommy Caldwell FA's, FFA's (free), and FFA's (female) Dealing with and learning from injuries Tough pregancy and post pregnancy How motherhood has changed her What her goals are now | |||
| 18 Apr 2018 | TBP 102 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Rotator Cuff and Neck Strain | 01:10:01 | |
| 16 Aug 2017 | TBP 084 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training | 01:11:47 | |
| 24 May 2023 | TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster | 01:12:23 | |
In this episode, I sat down with Coach Matt Pincus to talk about his infamous “checklist” that he uses when he’s projecting a route (or a boulder – but usually routes). As a coach, often Matt’s job is less about creating strength training programs and more about using tactics to get people up their projects in an efficient way. He’s found that he’s been having a lot of conversations with clients lately about how to approach their route projects, now that it’s climbing season in a lot of places. This episode is dedicated to helping people approach hard projects (and sometimes even not-so-hard projects) to help keep yourself motivated and on the trajectory to a send. Matt uses a checklist of links and accomplishments he wants to make on a route before the final checkbox of sending. He shares how he creates that list, depending on what kind of route it is. He also talks about the following:
If you want Matt to help you with your own goals, whether they’re with bouldering or route climbing, he’s available for month-long commitments where he’ll talk with you over zoom and create a program for you and keep in touch with you via the TrueCoach app throughout the month. He’ll help you get stronger overall and cater to your specific goals so the timing is right for you to send when it’s time to send. | |||
| 22 Oct 2014 | TBP 013 :: Hans Florine on Speed Climbing The Nose and Training for It | 01:13:21 | |
About Hans Florine This is from Wikipedia because I couldn't possibly sum this up any better. Hans Florine has a long and storied history on El Cap, and in particular on The Nose. Here goes: Hans Florine (born June 18, 1964)[3][4][5] is an American rock climber, who together withAlex Honnold holds the Speed Climb World Record for climbing The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan in 2:23:46 (2 hours, 23 minutes and 46 seconds), set on June 17, 2012[6] which broke the previous record of 2:36.45 set by Dean Potter and Sean Leary. Hans also previously held the same record with Yuji Hirayama for El Capitan in 2:37:05 (2 hours, 37 minutes and 5 seconds), set on October 12, 2008.[2] This broke their record of 2:43:33 set on July 2, 2008, which had broken the record that was set by the German "Huberbuam",Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber.[7] The two brothers climbed The Nose on October 8, 2007 in 2:45:45, breaking Hans' and Yuji's prior speed record.[8] El Capitan is traditionally climbed in three to five days.[9]The Nose route is 2,900 ft long (880 m) and features over 31 pitches of strenuous, exposed climbing.[9] Florine thus climbed The Nose at roughly 6 minutes per pitch. On July 30, 2005, Florine also completed a solo ascent of The Nose in just 11 hours and 41 minutes.[10] Solo ascents are characterized by climbing by yourself and require one person to do all the work. Pretty impressive, huh? I wanted to know how he trained for such crazy shenanigans, and he kindly gave his time for an interview. What We Talked About
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings PhotoJim Thornburg Thanks for listening!
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| 15 Jul 2020 | TBP 151 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Body Image and Disordered Eating in Climbers | 01:36:29 | |
About Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about body image and disordered eating behaviors in climbers. We both have experienced negative body image and have worked with client on body image and disordered eating behaviors. We discuss candidly our own experiences with it all and provide tips on how to balance your diet to get all the nutrients you need while maintaining your optimal, healthy body composition. We talk about common behaviors we see in our clients that sabotage their performance and health goals, and how to improve those behaviors. And we provide mental/emotional tools to help deal with negative body image/body dysmorphia. This discussion was a very vulnerable one for me, and I discuss some personal things I’ve never talked about on the podcast before. Our hope with this episode was multifaceted: 1) we want to bring body image issues more into the open, 2) we want people to learn how to eat in order to avoid common emotional eating pitfalls, and 3) we want people to start re-thinking the “optimal body type” for climbers, and realize that extreme leanness is not the end all be all of climbing hard. It’s also incredibly important to be healthy and happy. Lastly, if you believe you have an eating disorder or are suffering with disordered eating behaviors, we encourage you to seek help. Whether that’s from a therapist, a nutritionist, a doctor, or all three, there are many resources out there for you. I did an interview with Kate Bennett, who is a therapist who specializes in eating disorders among athletes and she sees clients remotely. Alyssa is also currently taking clients remotely. Interview Details
A little about me that you might not know… After completing my Bachelor’s degree in both Psychology and Zoology at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, I completed a 4-year holistic nutrition program called Seven Bowls School of Nutrition, Nourishment, and Healing. I graduated in 2007 as a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutrition Therapist. During my education, I learned about not only nutrition, but Western and Chinese herbs, homeopathy, the psychology of eating, and other alternative practices. I started practicing nutrition with private clients in 2007, and I’ve been working exclusively with climbers since 2015 to help them optimize their energy levels, body composition, climbing performance, and overall well-being. I was heavily involved in the Paleo nutrition community for a few years, and I was recruited to write The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Eating Paleo, which was published in 2012. I’ve led nutrition seminars online, taught at Bauman College (a certificate program for nutrition), and taught several community classes in person. I’ve been a panelist at several conferences and festivals, including the International Climbers’ Festival in 2017-2019, and PaleoFX. I’m also an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminars with Steve Bechtel et al, and I travel around the country with them to teach people about nutrition for climbers. Outside of my nutrition life, I’m the owner of TrainingBeta.com and the host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. I live in Longmont, Colorado with my husband and co-founder of TrainingBeta, Seth, and our dog, Zala. I’ve been sport climbing for 20+ years and I’ve worked with my diet extensively to figure out proper fueling and recovery for optimal climbing performance–a lifelong pursuit. For more info about who I am as a climber and a person, check out my personal bio. About Alyssa Neill, RDNFrom Alyssa’s website… In addition to her Didactic Program & Nutrition Science degree from the University of Rhode Island, Alyssa completed her 1300 hour Dietetic Internship at the nation’s leading school for natural medicine and whole-food nutrition, Bastyr University, in Washington. She has over seven years of personal and professional experience with holistic nutrition, weight loss, fat loss, women’s health, hormone balance with diet, diet and lifestyle modifications, and supplement support. In addition to NourishMEnt Nutrition, she has worked as a Practitioner at Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy, in the supplement industry, as a Private Chef, in hospitals, in Naturopathic clinics and as a Detoxification / Biotransformation researcher at High Tech Health International, Inc. She also hosts and teaches at Womxn’s Retreats, Womxn’s Circles & gatherings. She loves cooking and creating, and so she occasionally private chefs for retreats. She leads rituals, guided meditation, writes for Climbing Magazine and for Gnarly Nutrition. She is also a sport climber and a boulderer, and she works with climbers as well as all kinds of nutrition clients. For more info about Alyssa or to work with her as a client, visit her website at www.nourishmentnutrition.com. Links
Alyssa Neill
Use code: summer at checkout for 25% off all training programs from July 15-July 21, 2020.
NOT APPLICABLE for Remote Coaching with Matt Pincus or Sport Psychology Sessions with Dr. Chris. | |||
| 29 Sep 2022 | TBP 214: Matt Pincus’s 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers | 01:01:01 | |
In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the most common advice he gives to his climbing coaching clients. He finds that he has really similar converations with many of his clients, so over the years he’s come up with 4 sayings that he elaborates on during client calls. We’re not going to get into the nitty gritty of sets and reps or specific ways to train in this episode, but you will likely find some nuggets that will help you Occam’s razor your climbing and training days. Show Links
Coach Matt Pincus provides training plans to climbers of all levels from anywhere in the world. If you need help with your climbing strength, power, mental game, skills, or tactics, Matt can help you. He will sit down with you over zoom to find out your goals, your available equipment, and time restrictions and then create a month-long plan for you on the True Coach app. You’ll have access to Matt via email and the app for however long you work with him. He also offers one-hour consultations if you just want a few questions answered or to help you build your own training program. Find out more at the link below. TRAIN WITH MATT | |||
| 21 Sep 2016 | TBP 061 :: Jonathan Siegrist’s Minimal Training Regime and Meticulous Skin Care | 01:14:32 | |
About Jonathan Siegrist Jonathan Siegrist (or J-Star) is a 31-year-old professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. He grew up with his ever-psyched climbing dad, Bob Siegrist, trying to get him to love the sport as much as he did. He didn't really take to it until his late teens, though. Since then, he's become one of the world's most prolific sport climbers. To date, he's climbed four 5.15a's, sixteen 5.14d's and hundreds of other 5.14s. He's also bouldered up to V14, sent sketchy PG-13 and R-rated trad climbs, and has sent 5.14 trad big walls. (Read his recent write-up on Arc-teryx about his ascent of Direct Dunn Westbay, a 5.14 multi-pitch route at 13,400 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park). He's also bolted a bunch of routes of all grades in Colorado, Idaho, and beyond. Besides all that, he's one of my best friends, and I think he's one of the most motivated, positive climbers I've ever met. Aside from being an incredible climber, his genuine gratitude for life and hunger for adventure are admirable. Jonathan Siegrist Interview DetailsIn this interview with Jonathan Siegrist, we talk about how his training has evolved since our first podcast interview a couple years ago. But mostly, we talk about his attitude towards climbing, how he takes care of his skin, and what's next for him.
FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Just visit www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta to get the discounts. [button link="http://frictionlabs.com/pages/training-beta" color="green" size="large" type="" shape="" target="_self" title="" gradient_colors="|" gradient_hover_colors="|" accent_color="" accent_hover_color="" bevel_color="" border_width="1px" shadow="" icon="" icon_divider="yes" icon_position="left" modal="" animation_type="0" animation_direction="down" animation_speed="0.1" class="" id=""]Get Some Chalk[/button] Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
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| 15 Aug 2018 | TBP 111 :: Matt Pincus On Fitting Everything Into Your Training Program | 00:54:20 | |
I talk with climbing trainer, Matt Pincus, about how you can't fit everything into your training program, but you can prioritize what to train based on your goals. | |||
| 02 Mar 2017 | TBP 074 :: Climbing Training Success Stories with Mercedes Pollmeier | 01:11:38 | |
About Mercedes Pollmeier This is my second interview with Mercedes Pollmeier, our in-house online climbing trainer here at TrainingBeta. She's a Strength and Conditioning coach out of the Seattle Bouldering Project. She has a Master’s degree in Human Movement and works with climbers of all types and abilities, ranging from elite level/competition climbers to novice alpinists. Currently she works at the Seattle Bouldering Project with climbers and other athletes of all ability levels. I wanted to ask Mercedes about her training philosophies, and how she trains people online in particular. She's offering 1-month and 3-month online training programs to people who feel like they need a little more individualized help than our other climbing training programs can provide. She is detail oriented, very focused on proper form, and offers continuous support and feedback to her online clients via the Trainerize app. Mercedes Pollmeier Interview Details
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| 26 Feb 2020 | TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training | 01:21:30 | |
I talked with Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz fame about how he trains for hard offwidth and trad climbs, and about his new book on crack climbing. | |||
| 19 May 2017 | TBP 079 :: Daniel Woods on Training, Comps, Life Stuff, and The Pressure to Send | 01:20:07 | |
In this interview with Daniel Woods, we talk about his training, comp climbing, his upcoming goals, and the pressure he feels to send. | |||
| 02 Nov 2022 | TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers | 00:29:52 | |
In this episode, I talk about the pros and cons of the ketogenic diet and intermittent fasting for climbers. In my sessions with clients I often get questions about these very popular diet tactics, so I wanted to lay out in plain terms what I see happen–both good and bad–when climbers try them. This recording is taken from my Nourish program, which is a self-paced online course I created for climbers to help them change their diet so they can improve their climbing, energy levels, sugar cravings, and digestion. Check out the program here. Work with Me on Your NutritionIf you’re looking for help with your nutrition and you feel like you need personalized coaching, I can work with you on an hourly or a monthly basis to help you increase your energy levels, improve digestion, and feel more satisfied every day. I also have a course just for climbers that is self-paced with 4+ hours of video from me, PDF’s, and meal plans laid out for you. LEARN MORE ABOUT MY NUTRITION SERVICES Other Nutrition Episodes
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| 13 Feb 2017 | TBP 073 :: Margarita Martinez on Climbing Her First 13d at Age 58 | 01:09:57 | |
About Margarita Martinez My first experience of Margarita Martinez was at the Red River Gorge, watching her dance her way up Bohica 5.13b. She ended up falling on it, but I remember her laughing as she fell, and then talking to her later she was as chipper as could be. In this interview, that positive outlook on life and climbing is very apparent. Margarita is originally from Puerto Rico, but moved her in her late teens to be a ballerina, which she did for over a decade. She had to quit dancing because she could no longer travel and raise 3 children. She wanted something to fill the dancing void in her life, and at the age of 34 she found climbing. Since then, she's suffered several heartbreaking injuries and surgeries (broken back, broken ankle, and most recently a serious shoulder issue), but she's persevered and steadily climbed through the grades. Last year, at the age of 58, she sent her first 5.13d in Maple Canyon and has not slowed down since. That was after she was told by a surgeon that she needed to have a shoulder replacement and quit climbing forever. Our good friend, Esther Smith (the PT who's been on the show a couple times) helped her fix her shoulder, and she's now climbing and training harder than ever. Margarita Martinez Interview DetailsIn this interview, Margarita talks about her evolution as a climber, how she trains, and how she does things differently now that she's a little bit older. What We Talked About
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| 10 Feb 2016 | TBP 043 :: Neely Explains the Ketogenic Diet | 00:24:32 | |
I've been hearing more and more about the ketogenic diet in the climbing world. For instance, Dave MacLeod and Neil Gresham have had success with it and I expect that a lot of people will want to try it for themselves. I researched the diet quite a bit a few years back and then experimented with it on my own. I've helped nutrition clients onboard to a ketogenic diet, and I've talked with a lot of people about the difficulties and successes they've had with it. It's a really interesting topic, partly because everyone is so different that it may or may not work for you. It didn't work for me (for reasons I'll explain in the episode), but it may work for you. And who knows - if I'd done things differently it may have worked for me. In this episode, I explain: What the ketogenic diet is What the macronutrient ratios are How to know if you're actually in ketosis Why people like the ketogenic diet The difference between the ketogenic diet and Paleo/Primal What foods are pretty much no-no's on the diet My experience and mistakes on the diet My goals are to help you understand it a little better and maybe to help you avoid some common mistakes if it's something you're interested in trying. I'd love to know what your personal experience with it has been, and if you have any questions about it just leave them in the comments below! Thanks for listening :) | |||
| 24 Jul 2019 | TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics | 01:27:46 | |
I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics. | |||
| 08 Feb 2021 | TBP 164 :: Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn on Getting through Injuries without Losing Your Mind | 01:11:13 | |
About Alex Stiger Coach Alex Stiger recently had surgery on her finger to repair a ligament she tore when she accidentally smashed it on a hold while bouldering. I also just had surgery on my wrist (same surgeon, one month apart), so we’ve been in almost daily communication about our progress, frustrations, and small victories as we recover. Between the two of us, we’ve had a handful of pretty serious injuries, so we thought we’d discuss how we’ve dealt with those setbacks and the lessons we’ve learned along the way. It can be difficult to stay motivated and take care of yourself when all you really want to be doing is climbing. It can feel sort of like punishment sometimes, but the main things to remember are that you’ll get through it and you can (usually) become just as strong or stronger than you were pre-injury. In the meantime, we’ll tell you how we have learned to honestly enjoy being injured sometimes. Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. If you’d like to work with her doing remote coaching, you can find more info on that at www.trainingbeta.com/alex. Alex Stiger Interview Details
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| 17 Oct 2018 | TBP 114 :: Lattice Training - 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor Climber | 01:32:12 | |
In this interview, Lattice Training's Tom Randall and Ollie Torr describe 5 training hacks to use if you don't have much time to train. | |||
| 30 Aug 2016 | TBP 059 :: Access Fund on Going from Gym to Crag Responsibly | 01:10:14 | |
About The Access Fund The Access Fund is an organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open for climbers while keeping land owners happy with those climbers. Since 1981, the organization has been helping to end disputes between climbers and landowners and buying climbing land and making it available for us, among many other things. For a full history and overview of the Access Fund, go to this page. Often unnoticed by us climbers, these passionate people have worked hard to keep places like the Red River Gorge and Hueco Tanks open to us. From their site... "Since 1990, the Access Fund has assisted with 59 acquisitions through the Access Fund Climbing Preservation Grant Program and the Access Fund Climbing Conservation Loan Program, helping to preserve over 16,303 acres of land for climbing." See a list of their many good deeds here. Rock ProjectThey also organize something called the Rock Project, where influential climbers teach other climbers how to responsibly and safely go from climbing in a gym setting to climbing outdoors. This is mostly what I wanted to talk to them about, since there's a growing influx of new climbers all over the world, some of whom are doing unsafe and/or unsavory things at the cliffs. My Talk with the Access FundIn this interview, I talked with Brady Robinson, the Executive Director, and Travis Herbert, the Education Director of the Access Fund. We covered a lot of topics, including:
And lots of other goodies. If you're new-ish to climbing - or even if you think you know everything about etiquette, please listen to this interview. If we all got on the same page about these things, climbing areas would be much safer and even more of a friendly place than they already are. Access Fund Links
FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Just visit www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta to get the discounts. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
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| 19 Sep 2018 | TBP 113 :: How Dru Mack Is So Dang Good at Endurance Climbing | 01:17:26 | |
In this interview, Dru Mack tells us about his never-ending psych for climbing and how he trains to have such extraordinary endurance on long routes. | |||
| 06 Sep 2017 | TBP 087 :: Paige Claassen Spells Out How To Successfully Project A Route | 01:12:57 | |
| 12 Apr 2016 | Ask Kris 003 :: Training for Bouldering vs Routes | 00:20:50 | |
Training for Bouldering vs Routes
This week, in our third mini episode of Ask Kris, we decided to talk about the similarities and differences between training for bouldering vs routes, and what crossover there is between them.
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| 30 Jun 2016 | Ask Kris 010 :: Training on a Time Budget | 00:20:01 | |
Date: June 23rd, 2016 Training for Climbing on A Time BudgetThis week, in our tenth mini Ask Kris episode, we talked about how you can train at home or in the gym on a time budget. We talk about what boulderers should focus on as opposed to route climbers, and how you can train at home or in the gym in less than an hour 2 or 3 times a week. More Details about The Talk
This workout is the same one I posted on the last Ask Kris episode about efficient home workouts, but I figured it's pertinent to this episode, too. So if you didn't do it last time, go get it this time! This is a circuit workout, so do all of the exercises below without rest, then rest as suggested below, then repeat. Regarding this workout, Kris told me, "My client in Europe did it this morning and said it's the hardest workout he's ever done," so, uh, have fun with this... Home Wall: laps - 10 minutes without touching the ground (Jug holds for shake outs and rest every 2 or 3 minutes) Push Jerk (Video): 40-90 lbs (depending on ability), 20 reps Toes To Bar (Video): 20 reps Hang Board Pull Ups : 10 reps on edge (size depends on ability) Farmers Walk (Video) (with kettle bells or dumbbells) : 1 minute with 50-100% of bodyweight total. Take quick breaks if absolutely necessary. Rest: 3-5 minutes Sets: 4-6 Enjoy! Want Help With Your Training?Each of these training programs contains workouts that are 2 hours or less in duration 3 days per week. We tried to cater to those people who don't have all day to train. They'll get you stronger and more fit without breaking your soul ;) Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
Coming soon! | |||
| 13 Jul 2023 | TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance | 01:25:16 | |
Back in April, I published an episode with Thomas Cunningham all about how he trains efficiently as a busy dad and ER physician to be able to send up to 5.14c projects in only 10-15 days outside climbing per year. You can listen to that episode in the link below: Listen to my first interview with Thomas In that episode, we started talking about how he uses the Whoop (a wearable bio tracking device), continuous glucose meters, and some other biohacking type stuff, but the interview would’ve been reallllly long if we’d gone into all of it in details. So I asked him to come back for a second interview to talk about all of that. We’ll be doing another one soon on using bloodwork to optimize supplementation, etc. for climbing performance soon. So who is Thomas? Thomas is a 36-year-old emergency medicine physician and father of 3 children from Louisville, KY who’s been climbing for around 20 years. After talking to him for a while, I realized he is SUPER scientific about everything he does in climbing. This is no surprise because he’s quite an overachiever in his academic/professional life as well. He’s published a bunch of academic papers, he was chief resident at the University of Louisville Department of Emergency Medicine a while back, and WHILE he was doing that, he started a medical device company, Inscope Medical, and was VP of Innovations. He also completed an IronMan while he was an intern resident. Here is his CV if you’re interested. He’s an ambitious person, to say the least, and that means he has less time than some of us for climbing and training. Only getting outside climbing around 10-15 days per year, and focusing all of that time on very hard projects, he has learned that his training and all of his days outside have to be hyperfocused and specific. He also has to optimize his body for all the training he does and to be in peak performance mode when he’s trying to send. He’s used a continouse glucose meter (CGM) on himself in the past and he asked Sam Elias and Jonathan Horst to start wearing one in order to help them optimize their fueling for climbing. He came into this interview with data on both of them (and himself), including what they were eating before using the CGM, the changes they made to their diets after and while using it, and the effects it had on their climbing. The CGM basically takes a reading of your blood glucose every 5 minutes so you can see in real time how each food/meal affects you. We also talk a little more about the Whoop in this episode, which I’ve now gotten 6 of my friends and family using. It’s really interesting looking at the data each day about your sleep quality/quantity, how recovered you are, your HRV, and all kinds of stuff I’ve never paid attention to before. Thomas goes into how exactly he uses the whoop and how I’ve been using it myself. This episode was really fun for me because this stuff as a nutritionist is extremely interesting. I hope you love it too! Oh, and if you want to work with Thomas, you can do that by clicking on the link below: | |||
| 14 Jun 2016 | TBP 055 :: Lynn Hill (need I say more?) | 01:03:53 | |
About Lynn Hill This is an interview with Lynn Hill, who's arguably the most famous climber of all time. She was the first person to free the Nose on El Cap (5.14-), the first woman to climb 5.14a, the first woman to onsight 5.13b, and she was a fierce competitor. She has over 30+ international titles and claimed 5 victories at the Arco Rock Master. More than once, she was the only person - man or woman - to do a route at a comp. These days, she's a mother and an entrepreneur, and has settled down a bit. We talked about how she used to train for projects, what it was like back in the day, and the inequalities between women and men in the sport. More About Our Talk
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| 02 May 2018 | TBP 104 :: How Meagan Martin Juggles Pro Climbing, Ninja Warrior, Modeling, and Coaching | 01:08:34 | |
In this interview I talk with American Ninja Warrior hero and pro climber, Meagan Martin, about how she juggles climbing and ANW with modeling and coaching. | |||
| 24 Oct 2019 | TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother | 01:20:26 | |
Rachel Briggs tells us how her climbing's improved while raising 2 young children, and how she navigates the physical & emotional challenges of motherhood. | |||
| 23 Feb 2014 | TBP001 - A Talk with Carlo Traversi | 00:46:27 | |
In this episode of The TrainingBeta Podcast, I chat with pro climber Carlo Traversi about his successes, failures, training, the pressures of being a sponsored climber, and confidence. We also talk about...
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| 24 Sep 2021 | TBP 179 :: How Small Changes to Her Diet Led to Big Changes in Her Climbing | 01:14:25 | |
I’m Taking New Nutrition Clients I’m currently taking on 5 new nutrition clients, so if you’re looking for help on optimizing your diet for climbing, or you have some other health issues you’d like help with, I’m here for you! You can find out more about my nutrition offerings here. About Laura SchmidtMy original idea for this podcast was to have a former nutrition client on the show to do a refresher session with them. I thought I’d show you how I work with clients and let you learn from their situation and how I worked with them. When my former client Laura Schmidt responded to my call for potential interviewees, she said she’d love to be on the show and that things were going really well for her. But I had no idea how well they were going until this interview happened. She basically had a life transformation since working with me a year ago, and it had a lot to do with her willingness to fully embrace the suggestions I made for her diet, sleep, and exercise habits.In the episode, Laura Schmidt talks about the changes she made to her diet and lifestyle since we worked together and how they improved her energy levels, her climbing, and her quality of life. We worked together for one month, and when I first met her, she had a food aversion, meaning she really didn’t enjoy eating, and she had some disordered eating behaviors. Her energy was very low most of the time, and she had a hard time getting through workouts or climbing days without feeling totally exhausted during and after her sessions. She was underweight and not where she wanted to be with her climbing. Through working together, I made suggestions to make her meals more palatable, encouraged her to eat 3 full meals per day instead of snacking all the time, and I gave her some solid recommendations for calorie and macro amounts to help stabilize her energy. In this conversation we talk about the changes she made, what it meant for her lifestyle to make those changes, and how they affected her health and well-being. Her energy is much better, she’s climbing harder, her mood is better, and she has a much better relationship with food now. Honestly, Laura’s eating was pretty similar to what I see most of my clients doing when we first start working together. Don’t feel like you won’t be able to relate with Laura because she has an aversion to food; she was forcing herself to eat, and it was the same types of things (and at the same times of day) that most people do, so these changes I suggested to her will likely apply to you, too. She is so passionate about this topic now because she feels so much better. We discussed in detail the changes she made, talked about how she fuels now for climbing days, and how all of this affected her relationship with her daughter and her daughter’s relationship with food. I’m so excited for this episode to be out in the world because it just shows you how incredibly powerful small changes to your diet can be. I hope you enjoy it! Laura Schmidt Episode Details
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. | |||
| 13 Apr 2022 | TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols | 01:37:45 | |
Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and he’s a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about new research about common finger injuries in climbers and how that’s affected his protocols for healing them. We did another interview about fingers a long time ago in Episode 116, but this is an update to that information and a deeper dive into it. Jared’s book Climb Injury-Free is on its seventh print run and is back in stock (finally). Order his book here. This interview is super in-depth and he describes exact protocols to use on finger injuries, so I hope it helps you out if you have a finger injury now or if you have in the past. More Details
Dr. Vagy is an authority on climbing related injuries. He has published numerous articles on injury prevention and delivers lectures and seminars on the topic. He received his Doctorate in Physical Therapy (DPT) from the University of Southern California, ranked the number one DPT Program in the nation for the last decade by US News and World Report. He is now a professor at the University in the DPT Program. As a Doctor of Physical Therapy in clinical practice, he went on to complete a one year residency program in orthopedics and a one year fellowship program in movement science. He is a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist and a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist. Supporting Videos from EpisodeVideo describing pulley injury anatomy, biomechanics and research Video describing pulley diagnostic classifications and rehab Diagnosis and classification Return to climbing and hanging timelines Rock Rehab Protocol LinksDr. Vagy has created 6 injury protocols using his Rock Rehab Pyramid method that are available on TrainingBeta. You can find out more about his methods by clicking on any of the links below. You can see a description of all of the protocols (which we’ve made available for $15 each) at www.trainingbeta.com/rock-rehab.
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| 04 May 2017 | TBP 078 :: Natasha Barnes Tells Us The 4 Best Lifts for Climbers | 01:14:11 | |
I interviewed chiropractor Natasha Barnes about the 4 bests lifts for climbers, shoulder and finger injuries, and optimal body weight for climbers. | |||
| 09 Jun 2017 | TBP 081 :: Skin Care for Climbers with Justin Brown of Rhino Skin Solutions | 01:00:44 | |
| 08 Mar 2021 | TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering | 01:05:27 | |
About Matt Pincus Announcement: Matt recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train for bouldering and we explain our new bouldering training program. Matt is our in-house Remote Climbing Coach at TrainingBeta, and he’s an expert at training for bouldering, having sent up to V12 and helped his clients make huge gains. Matt and I recently created a new Bouldering Training Program using all of the knowledge Matt has gained through seminars, studying, and working with clients since 2017. In this interview, we talk about the methods he uses with his clients and how the bouldering training program is structured. Whether you use our new bouldering training program or not, this interview will help you understand how to structure a training program aimed at improving bouldering strength, power, and work capacity. CHECK OUT THE NEW BOULDERING PROGRAM Matt Pincus Interview Details
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. | |||
| 09 Aug 2018 | TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing | 01:10:10 | |
In this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing. | |||
| 31 Aug 2022 | TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training | 00:55:24 | |
In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and wants us all to know that there are limitations to how fingerboard training translates to actual rock climbing. He talks about the physiology of hangboarding and two potentially better ways to train finger strength. Tyler also wrote an article about this topic, which you can find here. About TylerTyler owns and operates Camp 4 Human Performance, a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength & conditioning business in Salt Lake City. While earning his doctoral degree, he completed a dual program Master’s degree in exercise science at the University Of Missouri. While in graduate school he worked with the University of Missouri athletics department and currently is employed through two colleges in Utah. He is certified through the National Strength and Conditioning Association as a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist and spends any extra time in his life with his wife and 4 kids or trad climbing or bouldering. You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. Other Episodes with Tyler
Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. Training Programs for YouDo you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…
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| 24 Aug 2020 | TBP 154 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Increasing Energy Levels with Nutrition | 01:11:52 | |
About Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about how to increase your energy levels using food. What you consume and when you consume it can have profound effects on your energy levels, and we’ll discuss the ins and outs of all of them. Even if you don’t “struggle” with energy levels, it’s quite possible that your energy could be even more on-point than it is now, and that can be low hanging fruit in terms of your climbing performance. I’m running a Nutrition for Climbers Program from August 28th through September 25th, all about how to improve your energy levels, lean out, and fuel for performance and recovery, as well as how to deal with some of the emotional eating issues I’ve talked about on this podcast. You can enroll until this Thursday, August 27th, here. Conversation DetailsThe topics we covered in regards to increasing your energy levels:
Links
Alyssa Neill
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| 06 Jan 2016 | TBP 040 :: Nina Williams on Training for V13, Comps, and Diet | 01:06:47 | |
About Nina Williams
Nina Williams is a boulderer (and budding trad climber) who lives and trains in Boulder, CO. She's climbed V13 and she won the Dark Horse comp in 2015, but she spends most of her energy climbing outdoors and training for that. Being a full-time sponsored climber, she's able to travel often, and she's spent time in Australia, South Africa, Switzerland, Hueco Tanks, and other popular climbing destinations. I sat down with Nina to talk about how she trains, what she eats, her attitude toward climbing, and what it's like training and climbing with Alex Puccio. What We Talked About
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| 07 Oct 2021 | TBP 181 :: Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson | 01:21:25 | |
Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson Dr. Evan Ingerson is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and Board Certified in Orthopedics who works at his practice Mend in Colorado. Evan is a physical therapist who specializes in treating rock climbers. He uses the most up-to-date evidence in his practice to get climbers out of pain faster. Evan works to identify the underlying cause of the problem and uses a combination of manual therapy and advanced exercises to return climbers to the wall better than they were before. He treats climbers at all levels, from beginners to international competitors and has the experience and equipment to create high level exercise programs specifically catered to the unique challenges of rock climbing. In addition to being a board-certified specialist in orthopedics, Evan is a lifelong climber and 10-time national competitor. Evan is also one of Coach Alex Stiger’s physical therapists, and she recognized that his cutting edge approach to injuries was something she wanted the TrainingBeta community to be exposed to. So she interviewed Evan all about how to assess and understand your injuries as a rock climber so you don’t feel lost when you have one. In this interview, she and Dr. Ingerson discuss how to know when to go to a doctor, a surgeon, the ER, a PT, an acupuncturist, or some other specialist. They also delve into the contentious topic of whether or not to ice an injury, and so much more… Even if you don’t have an injury right now, this interview will help you figure out a plan if you ever do get injured. Climbing Injury Interview Details
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. | |||
| 18 Nov 2015 | TBP 035 :: Isabelle Faus on Sending V14 | 01:03:22 | |
About Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus is a 22 year-old boulderer out of Boulder, CO. (Yes, I know that a lot of my guests are from Boulder, but there are just so many amazing climbers here!) Isabelle climbed her first V14 in South Africa recently, and has done several V13's, including Nuthin' but Sunshine in a day. She also just started sport climbing and did her first 5.14a the other day. She'll tell you all about her climbing, training, and diet in this episode. What We Talked About
FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Thanks for listening! | |||
| 28 Oct 2020 | TBP 158 :: Diana Rodgers on How Meat Can Help the Environment and Our Health | 01:12:50 | |
About Diana Rodgers Diana Rodgers, RD, LDN is a Licensed Registered Dietitian who helps people regain their health through proper nutrition. Her website is www.sustainabledish.com, where you’ll find blog posts and other useful resources to learn more about eating well. She recently co-wrote a book with Robb Wolf called Sacred Cow: The Case for (Better) Meat: Why Well-Raised Meat Is Good for You and Good for the Planet. She also produced a film, Sacred Cow: The Case for (Better) Meat and you can sign up to watch the world premier starting November 22, 2020 here. I watched the film and it’s fantastic. It’s all about how we’ve been raising meat all wrong since the industrial revolution, and how our mismanaged farm and ranch lands are destroying the environment. When animals are raised properly, their biproducts and behaviors actually sequester carbon, help plants grow deeper roots to maintain foliage, and make our soil much more nutritious and viable. It’s the cycle of life, and it’s been this way since there have been plants and animals. I asked Diana to be on my show because nutrition is low hanging fruit for climbers, and when I ask my clients to eat more protein, they feel better and climb better. Meat in all its forms is the most nutrient dense and efficient form of protein we can eat, but a lot of climbers have eschewed meat for the sake of the environment and their health. But I–rather, Diana–is here to tell you that meat, when raised properly and humanely, can be supremely helpful to the environment and very beneficial to your health, much to the contrary of what you’ve been told recently. In fact, plant-based diets can actually be quite detrimental to both the environment and your health. There’s a lot to learn here. Please give this one a listen. I guarantee you’ll learn something, whether you’re a plant-based or carnivore eater, or anything in between. I really appreciate you listening. Diana Rodgers Interview Details
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… | |||
| 05 Oct 2017 | TBP 091 :: Tom Randall and Ollie Torr on How Their Training Research Can Help Us | 01:14:58 | |
| 03 Aug 2022 | TBP 210 :: Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti | 01:32:22 | |
This episode is a LITTLE bit different than all my others in that we’re going to be talking about training, but for a different species: dogs! So many climbers have dogs, and because climbing has gotten so popular in the past couple decades, there are more and more dogs at crags and boulders. Sometimes this is an amazing thing and sometimes dogs can be a little out of control. So I asked my dog trainer, Jenna Teti, to come on the show to shed a little light on some things we can do to get our dogs to behave better at the crag and boulders (and all the time). Jenna is the owner and Head Trainer & Behavior Consultant at Think Smart Dog Training out of Longmont, Colorado, where I live. She has a LOT of certifications in dog behavior, and here is her description of what she does from her website: As a behavior consultant, my goal is to go beyond teaching you and your dog skills. I work with the human client to help them better understand their dog and their behavior in a way that is informative and fun! With this deeper understanding of not just the individual dog but dogs as a whole, we can address behavior and approach it from a place of compassion and understanding that builds a stronger relationship with your canine companion as you work through the behavior modification process. Jenna has helped me a ton with our young heeler mix, Willa, by changing the way we approach training. We talk about that in this episode, along with crag behaviors such as being able to just chill while we’re climbing, not being reactive to people and dogs, coming when called, and more. I hope this helps you have a better experience outside climbing with your dog! Here’s my dog, Willa, trying to be a good girl at the crag 🙂 More Details
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| 28 Apr 2021 | TBP 168 :: Coach Alex Stiger on Training Methods for Females | 00:59:43 | |
Females in Climbing In this episode I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how females can train more efficiently and effectively using their menstrual cycle as a guide. Alex Stiger is a dedicated climber who lives in Longmont, Colorado. She’s sent up to 5.13d and is an avid boulderer. She improved her climbing very quickly using efficient training. She is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, TRX certified, and she’s completed Stacy Sims’ Women Are Not Small Men course. In this episode we talk all about the specific needs of females in training for climbing. We cover topics like what to expect during certain weeks of your cycle, how to train during each of them, and why Alex (and so many females) was in denial about women needing to train differently than men for so long. FREE Women’s Train Smarter Challenge Starts Next WeekOn Monday, May 3rd, 2021 through Friday the 7th, Alex will be hosting a challenge for females that will help you learn how to train for your body’s specific needs. It’s completely free, and even if you can’t make the live calls we’ll send the recordings out to you. Schedule of Events
To learn more about the event and to sign up absolutely FREE, click the button below. LEARN ABOUT THE CHALLENGE FOR WOMEN Alex Stiger Interview Details
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| 16 Nov 2022 | TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing | 01:18:58 | |
David Farkas is a 49-year-old climber who works as the Adult Programming Manager at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, UT. He’s been climbing since 1991, and found himself in a bit of a slump with his climbing and nutrition when he signed up to work with me in 2018. After working together on his nutrition and him working on his climbing training with various trainers and coaches, he went from climbing 5.10 to 5.12 in about a year, lost some weight he’d been trying to lose, and found that his energy levels were much better. He also found relief with some digestion and skin issues he was having. In this episode, we talk about the struggles he went through before, during, and after working with me, and what kinds of things we changed about his diet and lifestyle to get him the results he wanted. He was living in a van at the time, so we talk about how to improve your diet even if you don’t have a kitchen of your own. David is one of my all-time favorite clients, and the results he’s seen are inspirational (but not abnormal when working with nutrition), so I asked him to share his story. I was impressed with his willingness to be vulnerable and honest about his journey, and I hope you love it as much as I did. Work with Me on Your NutritionI’m currently taking new clients, and if you’d like to work with me to improve your climbing performance, overall energy levels, digestion, and blood glucose, I’m here for you. We can do an hour session, a month session, or you can do my self-paced nutrition course: Nourish and add a single session onto that for more personalization. | |||
| 06 Feb 2020 | TBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with Neely | 01:17:59 | |
I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about how she works with people and then she does a session with me, Neely Quinn. | |||
| 21 Sep 2017 | TBP 089 :: Paige Claassen on What It Took to Send 5.14c | 01:00:58 | |
| 10 May 2023 | TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt | 01:39:06 | |
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and power. Basically, they both feel like these things are extremely confusing to climbers, and they wanted to simplify what those systems require, what it takes to train them well and efficiently, and what workouts they prescribe for each of them. The thing is that it’s not super clear-cut because in climbing, we’re constantly switching from energy system to energy system. We’re not usually climbing at an easy steady state for very long, and we’re also not usually climbing super powerfully for very long. We go in and out of trying hard, resting, climbing easier stuff, etc. So they do their best to explain what is categorized as which energy system and exactly what to do, and when, in order to get better at one or all of them. As always, they did an amazing job of preparing for this interview, and both of them have so much experience at this point with training people that their advice is truly simple and easy to follow. I hope you enjoy this one as much as I did. Show Links
If you’re tired of going into the gym without a plan and you want a clearly laid-out program made by an experienced coach, our Bouldering Training Program is just that. And it doesn’t cost nearly as much as working one-on-one with a coach. Matt Pincus created this online subscription bouldering program based off of what has been super successful with his clients over the years. There are 3 levels of training available to you, depending on how much experience you have with climbing training. You’ll go through non-linear cycles (learn more about what that means in the link below) of training power, strength, skill drills, and throughout it all you’ll be gaining all-day capacity. Hundreds of people have felt an increase in their bouldering ability within weeks of being on this program, and you can too. It’s 35% off right now, and you get a 7-day free trial to see if it works for you. Go to the gym with a plan in your hand, trust the process, and see results. CHECK OUT THE BOULDERING PROGRAM SALE | |||
| 16 Dec 2015 | TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Nerdy Training Methods | 01:17:15 | |
About Tom Randall Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical data from other climbers into their training plans and robust assessments of their clients. He's pretty nerdy, in the best way possible. What We Talked About
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| 05 Mar 2014 | TBP 002: Paige Claassen on Training, Eating, and Body Weight | 00:32:05 | |
I sat down and chatted with my very good friend, Paige Claassen, before she took off on her Lead Now Tour around the country this past year. We talked about being driven by success, how she's managed to pull off proud 5.14 ascents with style, and how food affects her climbing. Since our talk, she's been traveling the globe, climbing rad sport routes, sending even more 5.14s, and raising money for her favorite non-profits all along the way. If you'd like to donate to her noble cause, you can do so here. Climbing and Training
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| 01 Nov 2014 | TBP 014 :: Physical Therapist Jared Vagy on Injury Prevention and Treatment | 01:17:42 | |
About Dr. Jared Vagy I am so excited to put this podcast out! Holy crap. This is some MUCH NEEDED info for climbers of all kinds, and I really hope you listen to the whole thing. Jared Vagy is a PhD physical therapist who also happens to be a rock climber who's had a lot of injuries. He works with athletes of all kinds and does special phone/skype and in-person assessments and sessions with climbers all over the world. He's written a book just for us on how to prevent and treat common climber injuries, and he's got a lot more info for us up his sleeve. He's super passionate about educating us, and I'm so happy I found him! He's dissected our contorted movements and figured out how we can prevent finger, elbow, and shoulder injuries. What We Talked About
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings Thanks for listening!
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| 11 Jul 2016 | TBP 058 :: Joe Kinder on The BD Bootcamp, Route Development, and Being a Pro | 00:58:16 | |
Date: July 11th, 2016 About Joe KinderThis is an interview with Joe Kinder, a 36-year-old climber from New Hampshire who was one of our sport's first professional (aka paid) athletes. He's climbed up to 5.14+ sport and 5.13+ trad, and he's given back much to the sport by developing a whole lot of new routes all over the US. He's well known for his consistently high level of psyche for climbing, and for being a genuinely good person and fellow climber at any crag. Joe, Sam Elias, and Dan Mirsky recently completed the BD Training Bootcamp, where they lived and trained together in Golden, CO for several weeks at a time while being coached by Kris Peters and Justen Sjong. They all saw a lot of success after the bootcamp sessions, and I talked to Joe about what he accomplished after the bootcamp and how he's changing his overall training because of it. About Our Talk In this interview we talked about his history with climbing, growing up with Dave Graham, why he develops routes, training, diet, and lots more.
Coming soon! | |||
| 12 Aug 2020 | TBP 153 :: Chelsea Murn on Women’s Specific Training and Nutrition Needs | 00:59:39 | |
About Chelsea Murn Chelsea Murn is a Certified Health Coach and a climbing coach at LadyBetaCoaching.com who specializes in females’ training and health needs. She’s also a business coach for females in the climbing community, and in this interview we talk about all of that. Chelsea has caught my eye recently with her blogging at LadyBeta, and because she’s one of the only people talking about women’s specific training needs. We talked about women’s specific needs in climbing training and performance as well as our specific diet needs. We talk about what we should be training in the different phases of women’s cycles and how hormones affect our physical and emotional states. And we discuss how we can work with our cycles instead of just being annoyed that we have to deal with our periods every month. We also talk about her business coaching and her climbing coaching services, and how she might be able to help you. Chelsea is extremely knowledgeable and passionate about her climbing and her coaching, and it shows in this interview. I really enjoyed my talk with her and I hope you do too. Chelsea Murn Interview Details
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| 28 Jun 2016 | TBP 057 :: Joshua Rucci Compares Training College Athletes to Climbers | 01:01:20 | |
About Joshua Rucci This is an interview with Joshua Rucci, a collegiate Strength and Conditioning Coach in the Southeastern Conference (in Athens). He currently coaches women's basketball and women's gymnastics, and he has experience coaching all kinds of athletes, including the Chicago Bulls. He has always been passionate about helping athletes get better and reach their potential. Upon arriving to the Southeast, Joshua quickly realized that his days of team sports were over and that he belonged in the woods mountain biking and climbing. Joshua entered the climbing game later in life at the ripe old age of 24 and for the past decade has been training to transform his body from a 200lb college lacrosse player to a 155lb rock climber. Joshua’s progression has been slow and steady up to 5.13 sport and double digit boulders with limited interruption from injury or major setbacks. Amidst having to work long hours as a coach, Joshua has effectively been able to manage his time to accommodate training, getting to the crag, work, and a new addition to the family. Certifications and DegreesJoshua’s certifications include NSCA CSCS, NASM PES, SFG Level 2, FMS Level 1, and he completed his undergraduate degree at BGSU in exercise science and completed his graduate work at UGA in motor behavior. Articles by Joshua Rucci on TrainingBetaJoshua is passionate about strength and conditioning as well as climbing, and he's written a good handful of articles for TrainingBeta.
Through his blog entries he hopes to bring the two worlds together to help climbers utilize the science and practical training that he employs with his athletes. About Our TalkIn this interview we covered a lot of bases, including how training for gymnastics relates with training for climbing, and much more...
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| 30 Jun 2014 | TBP 009 :: Mark and Mike Anderson on Their Book, J-Star, and How Less Is More | 01:20:12 | |
I'm psyched to introduce this podcast with the Anderson brothers, Mark and Mike. We did a longer-than-usual interview this time, partly because there were two of them and mostly because they have a lot of advice to give. For the uninitiated, Mark and Mike are the Rock Prodigy guys, the authors of the new book The Rock Climber's Training Manual. They're the trainers who helped J-Star turn his training methods around in order to do "Biographie" (or "Realization", 5.15a), but they also have impressive climbing resumes themselves, despite having high-stress jobs and families. Mike is an Aeronautical Engineer, aka robot developer. He's an officer in the US Air Force and he has 2 sons (5 and 8) with his wife and they live in Colorado. He's redpointed 5.14 sport and has done some very impressive 5.13s, including First Free Ascents of Touchstone Wall (5.13, IV), Space Shot (5.13 IV) and Thunderbird Wall (5.13 VI) in Zion, UT, and Arcturus (5.13, VI) on Yosemite’s Half Dome. Mark (by the way, they're twins) supervises a team of computer engineers and has 2 kids with his wife, and they also live in Colorado. He's an “all-around” climber, having climbed on four continents, established numerous first ascents, freed El Cap, summited Denali, red-pointed 5.14c and on-sighted 5.13b. Along with their book, they also partnered with Trango to make the Rock Prodigy Training Center, a hangboard they recommend. So they're kinda the shit when it comes to training. What We Talked About
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings
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| 12 Sep 2016 | TBP 060 :: Sam Elias on Taming His Emotions to Climb Harder | 01:11:29 | |
About Sam Elias One of my first memories of Sam Elias was this: he was climbing on The Crew (14c) in Rifle, and he'd skipped 3 clips in a row on the top half. He was climbing to the death, screaming with every move, and then he fell and came dangerously close to being impaled by a tree right below the route. That tree has since been removed, and Sam has since sent the route. I think that scene personifies Sam Elias: He tries really fucking hard, he's ballsy, he's intense, and he sends hard rock climbs. When I came to know Sam a little better, I found while he's all of those things, he's also sensitive, introspective, and intelligent. He recently did the Black Diamond training bootcamp with Dan Mirsky and Joe Kinder, being coached for several 3-week stints by Kris Peters and Justen Sjong. Since those training sessions, Sam has been climbing better than ever, sending routes quickly that he'd put years of work into prior to training. He's sent up to 5.14c sport climbs, he's a competitive ice and mixed climber, and he summited Mount Everest, so he's an all-around excellent athlete. Sam Elias Interview DetailsIn this interview, we talk about what sets him apart as an athlete, how his emotions sometimes have gotten the best of him (as many of us can relate with), and what he's done in the past couple years to calm his anger and anxiety so that he can be a happier person and a better climber. We also talk about how he trained with Kris and Justen and what he's been doing to train since then.
Sam Elias Links
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| 29 Jul 2015 | TBP 029 :: Climbing Trainer Adam Macke on MAT and Weight Training | 01:07:32 | |
Date: July 29th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale!Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats. About Adam MackeAdam Macke (pronounced "Mackey") is a climbing trainer out of Chattanooga, TN. He works with people out of High Point Climbing and Fitness, which is a pretty new gym downtown. Adam has been personal training people since the early 2000's, and uses weight training and Muscle Activation Technique (MAT) to unlock climbers' potential. He's also a climber of 8 years himself. His methods with people in training for climbing are quite different than other trainers, so our conversation was pretty interesting and out of the box. To find out more about him, go to www.mackefit.com. What We Talked About
Photo of Adam Macke by Corey Wentz at www.coreywentz.com. Thank you, Corey! Thanks for listening! | |||
| 29 Jul 2022 | TBP 209: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition | 00:43:13 | |
New Nutrition and Training Program: Reach Coach Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn are hosting an integrated climbing training and nutrition program starting on August 8th, 2022 for 4 weeks! If you want to up your game in nutrition and in climbing training (and learn more about what Alex talks about in this article), you can check it out in the link below. In the program, you’ll get a 4-week training program from Alex, a comprehensive nutrition course + one-on-one time with Neely, plus weekly live meetings with Alex and Neely and a lot more. As a podcast listener, you get $50 off the program using the code “Reach” at checkout. Use Code “Reach” at Checkout for $50 Off of Reach Calories for Climbing Performance and Body CompositionIn this episode, I talk all about how to figure out how many calories–how much food–you should be eating in your meals, snacks, and throughout each day in order to feel energized, climb well, and have the body composition that’s right for you. We’ll talk about how to objectively and mathematically determine what is a good calorie amount for YOUR body to help you be your best all day every day. As for the body composition portion of this episode, yes, I’m going there. This is a difficult subject because there’s so much anti-diet rhetoric out there that it’s almost sinful to talk about weight or fat loss at all. But MOST of my clients come to me wanting to lose weight, and they’ve been taught their whole lives how to do it all wrong. So my goal is to give people the same advice I give my clients: measured, sustainable methods for changing your body composition at a reasonable rate. I get pretty real in this episode and it’s not something I’ve really talked about much on this podcast before. I hope this real talk is helpful for you! This is a recording taken from a 5-day nutrition challenge I did in 2020 in front of a live zoom audience and I added some bits to the beginning and end about the topic. A Little about MeAfter completing my Bachelor’s degree in Psychology and Zoology at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, I did a 4-year nutrition certificate program at Seven Bowls School of Nutrition, Nourishment, and Healing. I graduated in 2007 as a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutrition Therapist. I’ve worked exclusively with climbers since 2013. Show Links
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. | |||
| 03 Jul 2015 | TBP 026 :: Dr. Lisa Erikson on Preventing and Healing Injuries | 01:08:31 | |
Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. About Dr. Lisa Erikson Dr. Lisa Erikson is a chiropractor out of Boulder, CO with a specialization in Sports Chiropractic and Chiropractic Biomechanics of Posture. She works specifically with climbers, skiers, tennis players, and runners, among other athletes to fix them up when they have injuries and to teach them how to care for their injuries on their own. Dr. Lisa runs the medical for the USAClimbing Sport Climbing Championships, Speed Climbing Championships, and Bouldering Championships. Her new book, Climbing Injuries Solved, helps us learn how to prevent and manage injuries from climbing. An avid multisport athlete, Dr. Lisa competed in collegiate running, cycling, and nordic skiing. A trail runner, ultrarunner, climber, and nordic skier, Dr. Lisa is passionate about making sure athletes are not held back from doing the sports they love. She's got quite the long list of athletic accomplishments, as well as helpful resources on her website, www.lifesportchiro.com. What We Talked About
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| 12 Nov 2021 | TBP 185 :: Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes | 01:06:49 | |
Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I talk about running for climbing fitness. In our practices as a coach (Matt) and a nutritionist (me), we see a lot of people who run in the name of climbing training. But there are some common mistakes we see people making in their training schedules, their nutrition practices, and their reasoning behind their actions. We talk about some better choices people can be making with their running, whether it’s scientifically been shown to help with climbing fitness at all, and how to proceed with your running and climbing regimens. Enjoy! Episode Details
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. | |||
| 11 Sep 2017 | TBP 088 :: How Adam Ondra Sent The World’s First 9c / 5.15d | 01:05:48 | |
| 07 Apr 2016 | TBP 050 :: V8 Boulderer Teal Dreher Compares Training Programs | 01:09:59 | |
About Teal Dreher
This is an interview with Teal Dreher, a V8 boulderer who climbed through the grades in just a few years using various training programs. She also regularly puts in 70 hours per week as an environmental engineer, so I thought she'd be a perfect person to represent normal non-pro climbers. She takes us through her evolution of climbing training, starting with the Anderson brothers' program, then through Eric Horst's teachings, and finally with our very own Kris Peters, who she's currently training with. I honestly loved talking with Teal because I felt like we could relate on climbing on a different level than my pro climber guests. I hope you like this very informative conversation as much as I did! What We Talked About
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| 27 May 2015 | TBP 022: Bill Ramsey on Sending 14b at Age 54 | 01:09:57 | |
Date: May 27th, 2015 About Bill Ramsey
Bill Ramsey is a legend among climbers, having put up classic first ascents in the Red River Gorge years ago such as Omaha Beach (14a), Golden Boy (13b), and many others. He's 55 years old and he just sent his 3-year project at the Cathedral near St. George, UT, called "Golden for A Moment" (5.14b). 5.14b is about as hard as Bill has ever climbed, even in his 20's and 30's, so with such a huge accomplishment under his belt, I wanted to ask him some questions. What We Talked About
Photo of Bill Ramsey by Mike Call Thanks for listening! | |||
| 10 Jan 2018 | TBP 095 :: Zahan Billimoria on Alpine Training with Minimal Equipment | 01:13:26 | |
In this interview I talk with coach, climber, mountain guide, and skier, Zahan Billimoria about how he trains his athletes for mountain objectives using minimal equipment. | |||
| 26 Mar 2014 | TBP 004: Angie Payne on V14, Failures, Rivals, Diet, Weight, and Training | 00:45:59 | |
I met Angie Payne in 2004 when she first moved to Boulder. I worked at the Spot Bouldering Gym and she lived at the Spot Bouldering Gym. Not really, but she was there an awful lot. She was quiet, shy, sweet, and studious (she studied in the café where I "worked"). And obviously strong as hell. She won three ABS National Championships and two PCA competitions during the 2003-2004 season. Over the next six years, Angie stood atop more than ten podiums as a top 3 finisher in bouldering competitions. She doesn’t just crush inside, though — Angie has been a trailblazer among female climbers on boulders outside, too. Between 2004 and 2010, Payne did first female ascents of 17 V10-V12 boulder problems. In 2010, after climbing European Human Being (video) V12 and No More Greener Grasses V12, Angie completed The Automator (video), becoming the first woman in the world to climb a confirmed V13. These accomplishments earned her two Climbing Magazine Golden Piton honorable mentions and the 2007 Everest Award in Women’s Bouldering. Angie graciously sat down with me last summer (2013) to talk about how she got to be such a badass, how she continues to be such a badass after so many years competing, and how her "rivals" - who are also some of her best friends - keep her motivated. I'm lookin' at you, Puccio. We also talk about...
Thanks for listening! | |||
| 25 Jul 2018 | TBP 108 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Using Blood Flow Restriction during Performance Phases and for Injury Healing | 01:09:40 | |
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during performance phases. | |||
| 04 Jan 2023 | TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger | 01:11:08 | |
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so she has quite a bit of experience with the minutiae of what it takes to do that. She will share her personal experience of her first 5.12’s and what she learned from her trials and tribulations. She’ll then go into the mindset shifts that are required to jump into the coveted 5.12 territory, and how she helps people do that. While you might predict that strength training is one of the main tools Alex uses with her clients in this situation, it is not, as she says it is very rare to find a person who is climbing 5.11 who can not climb 5.12 with the strength they already have. So while we spend a few minutes talking about strength training, you’ll find compelling evidence in this episode that that may not be your issue. Here are some of the other topics we discuss:
We talk about a lot in this episode, and I highly recommend it if you’re at the 5.10 or 5.11 level, or if you’re just not consistently climbing 5.12’s and you’d like to. Even if you are climbing 5.12’s consistently, I think a lot of her tactics will help you! 5.12 Breakthrough SeriesCoach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to break into 5.12 climbing. She will do 4 90-minute zoom calls starting January 17th all about what holds people back from sending 5.12 consistently and exactly what you can do to break your 5.11 plateau. The cost is $147 (2-payment option available), and you’ll get all of the recordings of the zoom calls plus a bonus recorded coaching session with one of the participants. LEARN MORE ABOUT THE 5.12 BREAKTHROUGH SERIES Show Links
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| 11 Apr 2014 | TBP 005: Jonathan Siegrist on Sending, Failing, Training, and Dreaming Big | 00:50:54 | |
This interview is with one of my really good friends, Jonathan Siegrist, aka J-Star. I met Jonathan about 4 or 5 years ago and for some reason we just clicked and have stayed tight ever since. He's one of my favorite people, and you'll understand why that is if you listen to this interview :) The interview was actually done at the house we just shared with him for a few months in Las Vegas, where we spent a lot of time up at the Promised Land and some other awesome areas with Jonathan. I got to belay him on his recent first ascent of the 5.14c he put up, Spectrum, and I can say that no matter how many times I watch him climb, it’s always incredible. I mean, besides the fact that he warms up on my epic projects, it’s incredible ;) He always tries hard, he’s psyched to be climbing, he doesn’t toss wobblers – or at least I’ve never seen him do it – and I think it’s because he’s truly grateful for every opportunity he gets to be on rock outside. He’s also really into training indoors, especially because he’s got some big goals for this year. We’ll talk about his goals and his training in the interview. He's done something like 140 routes rated 5.14a and above, including 19 5.14c's and 6 5.14d's. He won a Golden Piton Award for Breakaway Success in 2009 after his groundbreaking trip to the Red River Gorge, where his highlights included quick sends of the 5.14c’s Lucifer, Southern Smoke, and Fifty Words for Pump, three 5.14a flashes, three 5.13c onsights, and onsights of 10 routes graded either 5.13a or 5.13b, among other things. You can see his full climbing resumé here. Jonathan and I sat down in my closet in Vegas (it was a big closet and the only place that didn't echo in our house - ha ha!) and talked about all things J-Star, including how he trains now compared to how he used to train, what he eats, his love life (he's taken for now, ladies), and his dreams. What We Talked About
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings Thanks for listening!
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| 24 Mar 2016 | TBP 048 :: Neil Gresham on Training for 5.11 and 5.12 | 01:13:45 | |
About Neil Gresham
Neil Gresham is a British climber and trainer who's been training people for about 20 years now. He's the training columnist at both Climbing and Rock & Ice magazines, and has written extensively on the topic. At 44, he's still pushing his limits on sport climbs (14b last year), ice climbs, and deep water solos, among other types of climbing. Although he has no formal background in training (I'm finding that to be irrelevant in these interviews), he's studied the literature on climbing training and other related sports. But most of all, he's debatably one of the most experienced climbing trainers out there, having been doing this pretty full time since the 1990's. He also wrote an interesting article recently about his ketogenic diet that's made a huge difference in his climbing and body composition, which I responded to with my own podcast episode about the diet. We talk about his experience with keto and exactly what he eats on it. What We Talked About
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| 19 Oct 2016 | TBP 064 :: Dan Mirsky on BD Bootcamp Success and Becoming A Trainer | 01:17:41 | |
About Dan Mirsky Dan Mirsky is an understated crusher. I’ve been watching him gracefully take down rock climbs all over the country for the last 10 years. In 2013, we witnessed his fitness (literally) in The Red when we were next door neighbors at Lago Linda’s. And then a few months later he was kind enough to show us around The Cathedral/Wailing Wall, giving Seth and me encyclopedic beta on the entire crag from the ground. He chucked a couple laps on Golden (14b) that day right after sending Route of All Evil (14a) in the Virgin River Gorge that morning. Mirsky is PSYCHED to climb and psyched to see others succeed. He’s a bright-eyed, happy, almost boyish guy with a sneaky sense of humor and a willingness to get a little crazy with friends. He knows everything about the places he climbs because he’s obsessed with all things climbing. He’s sent 30+ 5.14’s up to 5.14c, having taken down The Crew (14c), 50 Words for Pump (14b), Bad Girls Club (14c), Lungfish (14b), and lots of other hard stuff, including an FA of Solid Gold (14c), the direct line to Golden (read his “The Day I Sent Solid Gold” from EveningSends.com). Dan Mirsky Interview Details Last year, Dan did the Black Diamond Bootcamp with Joe Kinder and Sam Elias, and he experienced some serious gains on actual rock because of it. Because of that success and his newfound psych for training in a structured way, he took a job as a trainer in Salt Lake City at The Training Room at The Front. In this second interview with Dan Mirsky we talk about his BD Bootcamp success and the novel concept that is The Training Room.
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| 30 Mar 2015 | TBP 018 :: Mike Doyle on Training for Necessary Evil, and Having A Career While Still Climbing Hard | 01:09:13 | |
Direct Download: LINKDate: March 30th, 2015 About Mike DoyleMike Doyle is a full time(+) computer programmer in his late 30's who crushes hard rock climbs. He's a Vegas local who has devoted the last several seasons to the route Necessary Evil (classic 5.14c) in the Virgin River Gorge, and finally sent it this past spring. He's Canadian, and helped train Sean McColl back when he was training youth competition climbers and competing himself. He's climbed all over the world, having sent numerous 5.14's, all while ambitiously pursuing a career he loves. What we talked about:
Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings Thanks for listening!
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| 12 Aug 2019 | TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries | 01:22:43 | |
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers. | |||
| 28 Mar 2018 | TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie’s Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program | 01:16:22 | |
In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps. | |||
| 06 Jul 2022 | TBP 206 :: How Matt, Alex, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects | 01:20:17 | |
Work with Matt or Alex as Your Climbing Coach Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your climbing goals. They can either consult with you on making your own program or they will create a detailed program for you based on your lifestyle and equipment availability. WORK WITH MATT OR ALEX How Alex, Matt, and I Are Approaching Our Mega ProjectsIn the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how we trained and prepared for our projects, which are the hardest routes we’ve tried. We go over what the projects mean to us, how we stay mentally focused, and what we’re doing this summer to train for when the weather gets better. This is an intimate look at how two climbing coaches and I think about and physically prepare for hard rock climbing, and I hope it gives you some inspiration and ideas for your own projects! Episode Details
Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a Fear of Falling workshop next Tuesday, July 12th, where she’ll guide you in systematically overcoming your fear of falling in climbing. It will be a 2-hour live workshop on zoom (recorded) plus 3 months’ access to an online course with videos and resources from the workshop. Please Review The Podcast on iTunesPlease give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. Photo CreditPhoto of Neely Quinn on Tombraider 5.13d by James Lucas @james_lucas | |||
| 25 Jan 2019 | TBP 119: How Tom O’Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-Time | 01:17:41 | |
In this interview, Australian climber Tom O'Halloran talks about how he manages to climb 9a and V14 while holding down a full-time job and raising a daughter. | |||
| 14 Oct 2016 | TBP 063 :: The Anderson Brothers’ Evolving Training Philosophies and New Research | 01:06:54 | |
About The Anderson Brothers For the uninitiated, Mark and Mike are the Rock Prodigy guys, the authors of the very popular book, The Rock Climber’s Training Manual, all about the training methods they’ve developed over the last two decades. They’re the trainers who helped J-Star turn his training methods around in order to do “Biographie” (or “Realization”, 5.15a) and many other hard climbs. But they also have impressive climbing résumés themselves, despite having high-stress jobs and families. Mike is 39 years old and is an Aeronautical Engineer, aka robot developer. He’s an officer in the US Air Force and he has 2 young sons with his wife in Colorado. He’s redpointed 5.14c sport and onsighted 5.13d, and has done some very impressive 5.13s, including First Free Ascents of Touchstone Wall (5.13, IV), Space Shot (5.13 IV) and Thunderbird Wall (5.13 VI) in Zion, UT, and Arcturus (5.13, VI) on Yosemite’s Half Dome. Mark, also 39, (by the way, they’re twins) supervises a team of computer engineers and has 2 kids with his wife, and they also live in Colorado. He’s an “all-around” climber, having climbed on four continents, established numerous first ascents, freed El Cap, summited Denali, red-pointed 5.14d. Along with their book, Mark and Mike Anderson also partnered with Trango to make the Rock Prodigy Training Center, a hangboard they recommend. They now have a new hangboard, the Forge, which they say is the Ferrari of hangboards. So they’re kinda the shit when it comes to training. Anderson Brothers Interview DetailsIn this second interview with both of the twins, Mark and Mike Anderson, we talk about what they've been sending since last time we talked, how their training philosophies have changed, and the academic research they've been doing on climbing training.
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| 08 Mar 2023 | TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus | 01:36:05 | |
This episode is a bit different in that Coach Matt Pincus is the interviewer/coach and I (Neely) am just in it to introduce Matt and his guest, Bridget Roell. Bridget is a long-time climber who was working her first 5.13b when she first reached out to Matt a few years ago to coach her. Through the training and tactics they employed, she was able to send her first 5.13b's, her first 5.13c’s, and her first 5.14a, which was her long-term goal. In this conversation, they talk about the changes they made in her physical training and her redpointing tactics that helped her the most. They also discuss her goals going forward and help her with her training right now. This one was super inspirational for me, and it really highlights Bridget’s commitment to putting herself out there with her climbing and Matt’s ability to figure out exactly what any level of climber needs to improve. Show Links
If you want Matt to help you with your own goals, whether they’re with bouldering or route climbing, he’s available for month-long commitments where he’ll talk with you over zoom and create a program for you and keep in touch with you via the TrueCoach app throughout the month. He’ll help you get stronger overall and cater to your specific goals so the timing is right for you to send when it’s time to send. | |||
| 24 Feb 2016 | TBP 045 :: Ethan Pringle on Jumbo Love 15b, The Nest V15, and Depression | 01:10:24 | |
About Ethan Pringle
Ethan Pringle is a 29 year-old professional rock climber who's had immense success in the competition scene as well as on real rock. He made the 2nd ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b) and has done a few V14s and is working on his first V15 (The Nest). He's an all around strong, determined climber, and I wanted to know what makes him tick. What We Talked About
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| 14 Jul 2021 | TBE 170: Joy Black On Training During Pregnancy | 01:01:02 | |
In the episode, Joy explains how to stay empowered as a pregnant athlete, a brief breakdown of what changes occur during each trimester, and most importantly, she provides direction on what you should learn more about as a pregnant athlete. Joy also discusses the importance of strength training during pregnancy with key consideration of the pelvic floor, diaphragm, and deep core muscles. She also addresses how important of a factor mindset is during pregnancy and normalizes a lot of the common hurdles that women face during the “season” of pregnancy. Joy Black, B.A., NASM CPT is a Certified Personal Trainer and Pregnancy and Postnatal Exercise Specialist/Athleticism Coach. She is also an avid climber as well as runner and importantly to this conversation, a mother of two! Joy Black Interview Details
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. | |||
| 14 Oct 2020 | TBP 157 :: John Brosler on Training for Speed Climbing | 01:07:27 | |
About John Brosler John Brosler is a 23-year-old professional climber who specializes in competitive speed climbing. He currently lives in Fort Collins, Colorado, and was featured in the highly entertaining and educational 2018 Reel Rock film “Up to Speed.” John is a sponsored climber, and according to his bio page on La Sportiva, these are some of his proudest accomplishments: 1. 6-time Open Speed National Champion 2. National speed climbing record holder 3. 2018 Pan-Amercian Speed Champion 4. 2019 U.S. Overall Team Member 5. Sending The Vice, 8B/V13 in Rocklands, South Africa Pretty impressive, right? That’s why I asked him to be on the show to talk about how he trains for speed climbing. He clearly takes his sport very seriously and he personally piqued my interest in speed climbing, so I was honored that he agreed to this interview. NOTE: This interview was recorded on March 19, 2020 in the beginning of the COVID lockdowns, so some logistics we talk about may not line up with what’s happening right now. The training information is still as relevant as ever, though. John Brosler Interview Details
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… Please Review The Podcast on iTunesPlease give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. | |||
| 29 Mar 2016 | Ask Kris :: Finger Strength Training Mini Episode | 00:21:17 | |
New Mini Episodes!
We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. We'll also take questions from you guys and answer them on these episodes. This week, we decided to start with finger training, since it's such a popular topic. Kris Peters is a climbing trainer who's worked with some of the strongest climbers in the world, as well as a ton of regular Joes like you and me. He's seen his methods work on 100's of climbers so far, and so I thought I'd give him a platform to share his knowledge with you guys. Here's episode 1 of "Ask Kris", and hopefully we'll get one out every week. If you have a question for him, email me at neely@trainingbeta.com and we'll try to answer it. What We Talked About
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