
Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas (Phil Kalas, Nick Horween)
Explore every episode of Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas
Pub. Date | Title | Duration | |
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25 Sep 2022 | E1: Chicago Hot Dogs, Podcasts, Being Old, HBO Shows | 00:23:59 | |
Please allow myself to introduce...myself. Full Grain Podcast is Nick Horween and Phil Kalas chatting about quality goods and the people who make them. | |||
30 Sep 2022 | E2: Football Leather Hat(?), What is Full Grain Leather, JR Rendenbach Closing | 01:00:12 | |
As you expect, everything else is falling apart. | |||
10 Oct 2022 | E3: Brett Viberg of Viberg Boot - New Brand Direction, Service Boot, Chromexcel Lottery, Customer Service | 00:56:59 | |
A conversation with Brett Viberg from Viberg boot. We ask Brett about what changes are being made to the brand, how the service boot ushered in a new era, what each generation has brought to the business, the Chromexcel Lottery, customer service, and other topics. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.
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17 Oct 2022 | E4: Sustainability, Environmental Stewardship, "Vegan Leather", Patagonia, Waterproof | 00:42:29 | |
Sustainability is a loaded term. Everything has an impact. Nick Horween breakdown the environmental auditing process that many tanneries receive. "Vegan leather" are two words that probably should be used together. Patagonia is making an effort to move away from durable water repellant. Fluorinated DWR contains PFCs which are a suspected carcinogen. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. | |||
24 Oct 2022 | E5: Leather Prices Increasing, Supply Chain, Just In Time Inventory, James Webb Space Telescope | 00:44:45 | |
Space facts! Along with just about everything, we are experiencing leather price increases. Why are they going up? Chatting about supply chain issues, globalization, just in time inventory management, and the James Webb Space Telescope. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. | |||
31 Oct 2022 | E6: Skip Horween Tannery Work, Seasonality of Hides, Made in Maine, Boat Shoe Indicator | 00:58:01 | |
Skip Horween is the 4th generation owner of Horween Leather Company in Chicago. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. | |||
07 Nov 2022 | E7: Anthony Spina SYSTEM, Old Style, White Claw, Inclusive Drinking, Dive Bars, Tannery Row | 00:59:59 | |
Today's guest is the founder of SYSTEM Seltzer, Anthony Spina. Anthony describes drinking habits in the US, Chicago dive bars, the export of US culture, social media, being an informed consumer, PR spin and more. 5:56 First Cell phones 11:05 Inclusive Drinking 15:33 Chicago dive bars 23:37 Export of US Culture 26:15 social media, being an informed consumer, PR spin 37:31 Building Community, Schlitz, Old Style, White Claw, Chicago Pizza Summit
Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. | |||
14 Nov 2022 | E8: Patina, Veg Tan, Olive Tan, Chrome Tan, Wax Flesh, Patina Thunderdome | 00:56:24 | |
What is patina? Nick Horween explains what patina is, how to prevent it, and what we love about it. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. | |||
21 Nov 2022 | E9: Jason Gregory MAKR Studio, Leather Goods, Made in USA, Minimalism | 01:25:48 | |
Jason Gregory simply loves making stuff. From leather goods, canvas bags, furniture and even architecture -- Jason's entire being is devoted to creation. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. | |||
28 Nov 2022 | E10: 3sixteen - Raw Denim, Self Edge, 20th Anniversary Collabs | 00:52:13 | |
Andrew Chen and Johan Lam from 3sixteen tell us about their 20 year history. Starting with t-shirts and inspired by vintage clothing, they are now known for raw denim jeans. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. | |||
05 Dec 2022 | E11: Translucent Leather, Shrunken Horsebutt, JR Soles, Russian Reindeer Boxboard | 01:16:21 | |
Answering all of your important questions. A livestream replay with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. | |||
12 Dec 2022 | E12: The Stitchdown Shoecast - Ben and Ticho | 01:39:05 | |
The crossover episode you've been waiting for. SHOECAST with Ben and Ticho from Stitchdown Shoecast. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. | |||
19 Dec 2022 | E13: Grant Stone, Leather Break, Alden, Heel Slip, Lasts | 01:03:15 | |
Part one of our conversation with Wyatt and Josh from Grant Stone. Part two goes up on December 26th 2022. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. | |||
26 Dec 2022 | E14: Grant Stone Part 2 Wyatt & Josh’s Shoe Journey, Women’s Footwear, New Styles/Colors, Quality Specs | 01:10:57 | |
Part two of our conversation with Wyatt and Josh from Grant Stone. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. | |||
06 Feb 2023 | E15: We need to talk about Chromexcel, Boots, Mechanical Seals, Historical Documents, WWII | 01:08:19 | |
Nick Horween resurrects some 100+ year old documents uncovering some of Chromexcel’s history. We discuss the origins of Chromexcel, some of the original uses, and strengths/weaknesses of this special tannage. 0:00 We’re Back 1:13 Chromexcel Leather 2:50 Original Uses Boots and Seals 9:04 What is Chromexcel 19:07 CXL on Boots and Shoes and Belts 21:05 CXL Stretch and Drying Methods 31:36 CXL Variations and Colors 36:08 Historical Documents 1:03:21 Favorites Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
13 Feb 2023 | E16: Dashing Chicago, Alden, Edward Green, Leather Care, Proper Fit | 01:44:40 | |
Sean Moran from Dashing Chicago. Sean used to work for Haberdash and Leffot in Chicago. He has carried his relationships forward with Alden and Edward Green and sells their footwear, and other brands, in his downtown Chicago store. https://dashingchicago.com/ 0:00 Sharp Dressed Man 2:42 Sean Dashing Chicago 5:21 In-Person Shopping 7:42 Midwest Style 14:35 Leather Color Challenges 21:01 Rare Shell Cordovan Colors 25:08 Price Bias 29:05 Alden and Edward Green Special Makeups 35:13 Edward Green Style 40:00 Proper Shoe Fit 46:06 Water Spots on Shell Cordovan 56:59 Leather Care and Conditioning 1:00:58 Last Shapes 1:06:15 Alden Stock Challenges 1:12:00 Alden Indy Boot Rose Anvil Controversy 1:21:07 Price Increases 1:25:50 Fitting Based on Age 1:32:35 Favorites Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. | |||
20 Feb 2023 | E17: Black Bear Brand, Kevin Costner Jacket, Vintage Cars, Motorcycles, Travel, Boro, Wesco | 01:29:06 | |
Josh Sirlin lives in chaos and it is the chaos that has created the products for Black Bear Brand. He tells the story of how he has awoken the bear and his adventure chasing smiles. https://www.instagram.com/blackbearbrand/ 0:00 Next to the tannery everyday 4:35 Kevin Costner Jacket on Yellowstone 12:43 Black Bear Origin 18:58 A Weekend in Whistler 28:39 Vintage cars and motorcycles 33:30 Design Process and Inspiration 45:31 Chasing the Smile 48:17 First Black Bear Brand Product 51:05 Sobriety 55:47 Calling Skip Horween 58:57 Boro Patchwork Textile 1:05:53 What Makes Leather Special 1:09:25 Wesco Boots and Most Popular Items 1:15:37 Who is Black Bear Brand For 1:20:30 Favorites Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
27 Feb 2023 | EP18: Shell Cordovan Scratches and Repair, NEW Leather, Teacore, Wooly CXL | 01:07:45 | |
Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your most pressing questions. Have a question? Email fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com 2:14 Cordovan & Dublin Scratching and Repair 5:21 New Cypress Leather 10:50 Leather We Don’t Like 15:00 Horween’s Austin Leather 13:13 Most Common Belt Size 18:44 Steerhide vs. Horsehide 24:37 Size of Viberg and Ashland and Horween 31:44 Drum Dye and Aniline Dye 34:45 Teacore Leather 38:19 Does Every Horse Contain a Shell 45:32 Removing Finish from Shell Cordovan 52:50 Leather Conditioning 55:55 Wooly Chromexcel 58:27 Indonesian Bootmakers 1:04:25 Favorites
Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
06 Mar 2023 | EP19: Werner Erkelens, Bass Player for Monuments, Aviations, International Touring Musician | 00:55:53 | |
Werner is the bassist for Monuments and Aviations. He shares his passion for music and unveils some truths about the touring life of a musician. 0:00 Can you play bleed? 1:13 Posh touring life in France 4:28 Is there money in music? 9:54 Why bass? 17:04 Writing Process 25:58 International Touring 33:00 What do your parents think? 35:12 What do you want to be better at? 39:04 Favorite Bassist 44:33 Favorites Support Werner on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/WernerErkelens/posts https://www.thisismonuments.co/ https://aviations.bandcamp.com/music Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
13 Mar 2023 | EP20: Oak Street Bootmakers, Calf Shortage, Made in USA, Hand Lasting, Leather Board, Ralph Lauren | 01:29:44 | |
George Vlagos started Oak Street Bootmakers in 2010. The brand makes boots and shoes in the USA and has a wide offering of styles, leathers, and colors. George talks about their mission to make shoes in the USA, explains hand lasting, and tells us how Ralph Lauren is an inspiration. 0:00 Calfskin Shortage 7:45 Why Made in USA? 18:31 Hand Lasted Boots 31:07 Boat Shoes and Handsewn Shoes 41:15 Best-Sellers, Style vs. Comfort 48:50 Leather Board 58:05 What Makes Oak Street Special 1:03:03 Sizing and Fit 1:15:29 Ralph Lauren 1:18:18 New Styles 1:21:50 Favorites https://oakstreetbootmakers.com/ Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
20 Mar 2023 | EP21: Maverick Leather, Horween Seconds, USA Tanneries, New Car Smell, Salz Tannery | 01:26:32 | |
Matt Foster started Maverick Leather 40 years ago. He has a lifetime of leather information. From their new home in Bend, Oregon Maverick sells Horween seconds and leather from many tanneries. 0:00 Eye Surgery 1:16 Horween Seconds, Reselling Leather 9:58 USA Leather Tanneries 16:58 What leathers don’t exist anymore 24:26 Environmental Regulations 38:18 Maverick’s Customer Base 32:51 Tandy Leather 34:54 Leaving California for Oregon 41:51 Family Business 45:16 Horween Dublin Wax Finish 47:49 Favorite Leather 50:38 Saddle and Harness Makers 53:59 Leon Mexico 55:13 Tanneries in Chicago 57:14 Trends and Cycles 1:01:18 New Car Smell, Scented Leather 1:10:51 Salz Tannery Santa Cruz 1:12:18 Nose Blind 1:13:22 Hides and Exotics 1:16:32 Favorites Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
01 May 2023 | EP22: AI Asks About Leather, Patina Thunderdome Recap, Bog Bodies | 00:40:07 | |
Back in the saddle again. We’re back with another podcast for the inquisitive minds. Join us, Nick Horween and Phil Kalas, as we delve into the intriguing worlds of patina and preservation, from the leather boots that develop a rich character in the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome contest, to the ancient human remains that are frozen in time in peat bogs. 0:00 A Beautiful Voice 0:24 Real Estate Market 2:00 Chat GPT Asks Nick 8:18 Patina Thunderdome Recap 26:15 Bog Bodies
Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
08 May 2023 | EP23: Portland Leather Goods Curtis Matsko | 01:19:09 | |
Curtis is the CEO, founder, and the energy for Portland Leather Goods and Patina. 2:22 Starting Portland Leather 7:25 Leather 12:16 Forecasting 16:19 Hide Market, Material Delays 21:24 Leather for Women 35:00 Best Leather? 43:23 Mystery Box 45:36 Scale 54:08 Growing in a Pandemic 56:16 Sustainability - Recraftable Boot? 1:00:36 Thursday Boot 1:07:41 Future Products 1:11:10 Made in USA 1:13:45 Tannery Leather Working Group Relevance Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
15 May 2023 | EP24: The History of Buckleguy: How Hardware is Made, Sourcing Hardware and Leather | 01:13:26 | |
The Inside Scoop on Buckles, Hardware, and Leather In this episode, we sit down with Hugh Harriss, the 4th generation proprietor of Buckleguy. Hugh shares his insights on the history of leather, buckles, and hardware, the story of how Buckleguy got started, and the challenges of sourcing hardware and leather. He also discusses upcoming Buckleguy products, and offers advice on choosing the right hardware for your projects. This is a must-listen for anyone who is interested in leathercraft, DIY, or simply wants to learn more about the world of buckles and hardware. 2:17 How hardware is created 9:20 Hardware is a challenge 17:03 How Buckleguy got started 30:22 Why brass? 39:14 Sourcing and selling leather 44:38 Dry splitting vs. wet splitting 55:29 Upcoming products 1:07:27 Favorites Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
22 May 2023 | EP25: Comparing Shell Cordovan, Horsehide, Cow, Steer, Deer, Bison | 00:52:45 | |
What do you get when you cross a cow, a horse, a bison, and a deer? No, it’s not a joke. It’s a leather tannery lesson from Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. Nick and Phil have a combined 30+ years of leather tannery experience. They explain how shell cordovan, cow, steer, horse, bison, and deer skin vary in their features and functions. Which one is the most suitable for a formal shoe? A rugged boot? 0:00 Always Workin’ 1:01 Leather Hide Types 2:33 Coarse vs. Fine Grain Character 3:53 Performance Characteristic 5:34 Best Leather for Dress Shoes 9:35 Deerskin 12:00 Most Casual Hide 12:11 Grain Characteristics 17:28 Fat Wrinkles vs. Draw 22:38 CXL on Different Hides 24:52 Tannages and Pit Tanning 31:32 Horween Shell Cordovan Differences 48:28 Favorites
Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
05 Jun 2023 | EP26: Nomad Goods Brian Hahn: Creating Apple Tech Accessories to Work from Anywhere | 01:40:11 | |
Brian Hahn is the co-founder of Nomad Goods. They make innovative tech accessories for the nomadic lifestyle. 0:00 Work from anywhere 4:16 At Best Buy and Boutiques 7:45 Sourcing Horween Leather and Materials 13:01 Manufacturing with Natural Leather 17:19 The Best Material 21:10 Designing for Different Markets 23:12 Selling on Amazon 26:13 Leather Finish and Variation 30:16 Sustainability 36:26 Apple Watch 41:31 Headphones and Audiophile 43:50 Do Nothing 51:05 Design Philosophy, Designing Details 55:55 Quality Control 1:01:51 Made in China 1:05:22 Ecco Leather 1:09:12 Horween Dublin vs. Shell Cordovan 1:13:33 Made in USA 1:16:56 Vapor Deposited Titanium 1:20:34 Metal Injection Molding MIM 1:24:13 Upcoming Nomad Products 1:24:52 Working with Apple 1:27:31 Augmented and Virtual Reality 1:32:55 A No Leather Future? 1:35:28 Favorites https://nomadgoods.com/ Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
12 Jun 2023 | EP27: FEW Spirits, Craft Spirit Appreciation 101, Barrel Aging, Bourbon | 01:35:30 | |
Meet Paul Hletko, the mastermind behind FEW Spirits, a craft distillery in Chicago that creates award-winning spirits with a twist. Paul shares his insights on how to savor the flavors of craft spirits, what makes a good fermentation base, how barrel aging works, and what distinguishes bourbon, scotch, and single malt. He also talks about the latest trends in non-alcoholic drinks and how they compare to their boozy counterparts. 0:00 Collaborations 3:11 Craft Spirit Appreciation 101 24:42 Getting into Distilling 32:53 How Spirits are Made 32:23 Fermentation Source: Comparing Corn vs. Wheat 46:58 Before Few Spirits 48:56 Barrel Aging 58:38 Bourbon, Scotch, White Oak, Coopers, Single Malt 1:12:20 What is Few Spirits known for? 1:21:25 Non-Alcohol Beverage Trends 1:25:44 US Government Formula Approvals from TTB 1:28:21 Favorites Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
25 Sep 2023 | EP28: Rare Shell Cordovan | 00:55:20 | |
Nick Horween explains the rarity of shell cordovan, rare shell colors, and supply challenges. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
02 Oct 2023 | EP29: Thunderdome, Bo Jackson, What Makes Leather Smell?, Hot Stuffing Explained | 00:50:19 | |
Answering the important questions. Nick Horween explains why hot stuffing imparts a great leather scent. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
10 Oct 2023 | EP30 New Leathers at Horween, Stitchdown Boot Camp | 00:59:42 | |
Sad to have missed the first ever Boot Camp. Let us know how it was? Today we are making up for it by asking Nick to review some of the newly developed leathers at Horween. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
02 Nov 2023 | EP31: Rose Anvil Cut in Half. Form vs. Function. Shell Cordovan Engineer Boots. Alden Controversy. Part 1 of 2. | 00:46:48 | |
Part one of two. Cutting apart Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Weston’s YouTube channel has cut countless boots in half for our sadistic pleasure. He has accumulated a vast amount of footwear and construction knowledge and has become influential with a one million follower base on YouTube. Recently, Rose Anvil has sparked some controversy with a harsh and pointed take on a beloved brand, Alden. 0:00 Recording for YouTube Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
13 Nov 2023 | EP32: Alden Indy Boot, What is Quality, Meat Industry, Rose Anvil Weston Kay Pt.2 | 01:03:07 | |
Part two of two with Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Check out the Rose Anvil YouTube channel to see boots cut in half. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
15 Jan 2024 | EP33: Ultimate Leather Care Guide. Horween Shell Cordovan Polishing Secrets | 01:42:28 | |
Going deep on leather care. 1:55 The Ultimate Leather Care Guide 4:40 Nick Horween’s Leather Care Routine 7:58 Leather is Designed to Last 12:31 Shoe Trees 13:44 Phil Kalas’ Leather Care Routine 15:48 Air Dry After Washing Leather 17:50 Leather Conditioner and Saddle Soap 20:59 Use Less Polish 23:35 Hard Wax vs. Soft Wax 24:35 Leather Polish, Venetian Shoe Cream, Saphir 35:49 How Does Horween Polish Shell Cordovan? (Glazing) 38:18 Veg Tanned Leather 39:59 Do You Condition Your Outsole? 41:28 Arnold Horween Jr’s Leather Care Routine 45:11 Skip Horween’s Leather Care Routine 47:03 Leather Care Products We Hate 49:11 Leather Furniture Restoration 53:16 Wax on. Wax off. 54:09 Mac Method 55:00 Polishing Brushes 1:03:30 Polishes for Wallets and Belts 1:14:21 Importance of Leather Thickness 1:20:38 Deer Bone and Ebony Sticks 1:26:45 Spit Shine 1:29:02 Upcoming Livestream Event 1:30:16 Favorite: Christmas 1:32:22 Nick’s Therapy Session
Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
22 Jan 2024 | EP34: LIVE Q&A Shinki Shell Cordovan, Seidel Double Shot, Calf, Predator, Horsebutt | 01:05:26 | |
Nick and Phil answer your most pressing leather questions. 0:00 Favorite Episodes Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
07 Mar 2024 | EP35: Suede, Nubuck, Rough Out Waxed Flesh and Genuine Leather: Everything You Want to Know | 01:21:56 | |
Nick and Phil discuss the differences and similarities in “genuine leathers” including suede, split suede, nubuck, rough out, and waxed flesh. How should you care for your suede? Is nubuck more durable than suede? Is a split suede of poor quality? All of the answers are here. 0:21 What is suede? 9:10 What is rough out and waxed flesh leather? 10:27 Marine Field Shoe CXL 15:19 Nubuck vs. Suede vs. Rough Out 19:53 Natural Variance and Upgrading Leather 21:17 What is nubuck leather? 30:07 Horween Waxed Flesh CXL 34:36 Waterproof Suede 37:20 Horween Chamois Leather 40:57 Suede Tanneries Charles F. Stead 44:03 How to care for suede leather 50:17 Is suede leather durable? 1:02:18 How suede is made 1:12:04 Favorite Suede Products 1:16:49 Off Topic Favorites Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
15 Mar 2024 | EP: 36 WTF is Aniline? Aniline Leather & Leather Finishing🖌️ | 01:26:18 | |
Are you considering aniline leather? Or perhaps a completely painted leather? Join Nick and Phil as they delve into various leather finishes, highlighting aniline leather. Leather can range from unfinished to fully finished, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. 0:00 What is Aniline Leather Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
22 Mar 2024 | EP37: Stridewise, Best Shell Cordovan, Veg vs. Chrome tan, Boot Collecting | 01:58:16 | |
Nick English is the owner of www.stridewise.com, a blog and YouTube channel focusing on boots and casual durable stuff. A wide range of leather and boot topics are covered including who makes the best shell cordovan, Horween Chromexcel leather, current trends, European style, loafers, veg tanning vs. chrome tanning, and many more. 0:00 Best Shell Cordovan Check our Stridewise for excellent footwear and style coverage. www.stridewise.com Nick English is the owner of www.stridewise.com, a blog and YouTube channel focusing on boots and casual durable stuff. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com | |||
29 Mar 2024 | Ep38: Q&A Brain Tanning(!) Leather, Horween Predator, Horsebutt, Rancourt | 01:16:24 | |
Nick and Phil take on your hardest hitting leather questions including leather terms, brain tanning, leather delays, Horween’s Predator leather, horsebutt, sneakers and more. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com Support the show | |||
05 Apr 2024 | EP39: Sam Parker, Context Clothing, Alden, Roy Boot, Wisconsin Footwear, Supper Clubs | 01:23:18 | |
Sam Parker is the co-founder of Context Clothing. He is one of the individuals behind the creation of the famous Roy Boot by Alden x Context. Context had a 15 year run and closed its doors in 2020. Sam now runs restaurants and bars in Madison Wisconsin: Turn Key Supper Club, Settle Down Tavern, and Ounce By Ounce. | |||
12 Apr 2024 | EP40: CXL is Overrated?💰 Is Alden Overpriced? WWII Boots, Dale’s Leatherworks | 01:09:31 | |
Asking the hard questions up top: Is Horween Chromexcel (CXL) leather overrated? Is Alden overpriced? Dale from Dale’s Leatherworks shares his opinions with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. | |||
19 Apr 2024 | EP41: ⚡Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome⚡, Boot Camp, Leather Perspective | 01:21:31 | |
Ben Robinson from Stitchdown joins Nick Horween and Phil Kalas to chat Thunderdome, Boot Camp, and Leather. Congratulations to all of the winners of the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome. Boot Camp is October 12-13 in NYC. | |||
03 May 2024 | EP42: Horween Cypress, Latigo vs. CXL, Grey Colors, Small vs. Established Brands | 01:13:26 | |
Starting with the cowboy origins of Latigo leathers, Nick delves into the details of Cypress, one of Horween’s latest leather offerings. We explore the complexities involved in achieving specific colors like grey and white. Finally, we engage in a conversation about the unique competitive edges that both small and large brands possess. | |||
28 May 2024 | EP43: 1940s Timber Tanned Calf Leather | 00:58:36 | |
First tanned in 1940, Timber Tanned Calf is a legacy leather that is as storied as it is beautiful. The formula was lost. Despite the tannery’s best attempts they have not been able to reproduce it. | |||
12 Jun 2024 | EP44: NBA Basketball Leather - Leather vs. Plastic | 00:46:04 | |
Nick explains why leather is the choice material for professional NBA basketball and NFL football players. Phil and Nick discuss material options and compare leather and plastic choices. | |||
24 Jun 2024 | EP45: Shell Cordovan, Dublin, Essex, Pit Tanning, Tree Barks | 01:06:40 | |
Nick and Phil explore the similarities and differences of Shell Cordovan and Horween’s Essex leather. Both leathers are tanned using the same blend of tree barks. Horween’s Essex leather can also be finished into other products including Horween’s Dublin and Derby. | |||
01 Jul 2024 | EP46: Q&A Chromepak vs. CXL, Horween Pinnacle, Coffee Tanning, Why Pit Tan? | 00:53:41 | |
Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your most pressing leather questions. | |||
08 Jul 2024 | EP47: Dean Delray, Leather Jackets, Stand-Up Comedy | 01:26:49 | |
Dean Delray is a stand-up comedian, podcaster, design lover and jacket collector. | |||
15 Jul 2024 | EP48: Leather Tanning 101 | 01:12:37 | |
Horween Tanner, Esteban Perez, explains leather tanning and retanning. Leave your tanning and finishing questions in the YouTube comments. | |||
06 Aug 2024 | EP49: Boot-Wearing Guide to Horween Leather | 01:43:17 | |
Stitchdown's writer, Zaid Hintzman, asks the best questions for boot fans interested in Horween leather. Nick and Phil explain the features and characteristics in many Horween leathers including shell cordovan, Horsebutt veg, CXL, Predator and more. | |||
13 Aug 2024 | EP50: Horween Leather Tanner Explains Leather Finishing | 01:29:16 | |
Horween Tanner, Esteban Perez, explains drying methods and leather finishing. | |||
22 Aug 2024 | EP51: ICON 4x4 Jonathan Ward | 01:50:31 | |
Jonathan Ward (ICON 4x4) is an industrial designer and bespoke crafter of vehicles, clothing and leather goods. Jonathan shares his approach and philosophy when making things, and teaches us the importance of being passionate about what you do. | |||
30 Aug 2024 | EP52: Nick's Handmade Boots & Horween Leather Co. Discuss Shell Cordovan | 01:29:57 | |
Shuyler Mowe (Nick’s Handmade Boots) and John Culliton (Horween Leather Sales) talk with Nick about boots, leather, challenges and more. | |||
16 Sep 2024 | EP53: Horween SHUTDOWN & Maintaining a 100+ Year-Old Leather Tannery | 00:44:15 | |
Every year Horween performs scheduled maintenance on many pieces of equipment that are over 100 years old. | |||
30 Sep 2024 | EP54: Why is shell cordovan so expensive!? | 00:57:55 | |
Nick Horween explains why shell cordovan (and leather in general) is expensive. Cost breakdown includes hides, material, labor, regulations and more. | |||
09 Oct 2024 | EP55: Skip Horween Leather Industry & Trade Shows | 00:52:29 | |
All Horween takeover. Nick and Skip Horween discuss the leather industry and trade shows. | |||
15 Oct 2024 | EP56: Q&A NEW Horween Leather Aspen, Waterproof CXL, Farm Boots | 00:50:26 | |
Nick and Phil answer your most pressing leather questions from YouTube. Leave your questions for us in the comments. | |||
11 Nov 2024 | Leather. And Why it's Still Good. | 00:41:01 | |
Nick investigates the question of "why does leather stay relevant in some places and go away in others?". Also discussed: Leather care and Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome & Boot Camp NYC 2024. | |||
13 Jan 2025 | Wine Tasting for Leather - Live at Stitchdown Boot Camp 2024 | 00:53:06 | |
Our first ever in-person podcast at Stitchdown's Boot Camp 2024 in Brooklyn, NYC. Nick Horween (Horween Leather) and Phil Kalas (Ashland Leather) explain everything you need to know about leather in under 1 hour. | |||
03 Feb 2025 | Nick (Stridewise) & Nick (Horween) Discuss Environmental Impact | 00:40:22 | |
Nick English (Stridewise) and Nick Horween (Horween Leather) discuss regulations and environmental impact of tanneries. Leather Working Group (LWG) audits and rates tanneries for responsible production and sourcing. | |||
14 Mar 2025 | Skip Horween Explains Latigo, Illini Latigo, California Tanneries | 00:33:43 | |
Skip Horween describes Horween's Latigo and Illini Latigo variants. Illini Latigo's originates as Horween's version of California Latigo and is best used in belts, straps, and harnesses. | |||
21 Mar 2025 | Q&A Oil-Tanned CXL & Curry Shell Cordovan | 01:00:06 | |
Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your urgent leather questions! |